Finally. You are the first of many who actually in clear, clean and well constructed manner where able to explain and deliver how this actually works. Thank you!
Hah, very fair. I was thinking shooting in a hard to exposure environment would be a good for this one but then the whole no one monitoring as the sun rapidly shifted caught up with me rather harshly... thanks for watching.
Red actually says to raise the ISO to 1600 or higher in daylight / bright scenes because it gives you a better image from shifting dynamic rage to the middle / highlights. They use examples and show how the affects the raw image. You of course have to adjust ND or f-srop ass needed. I think few people really shoot this way but it makes sense once you see the test footage.
I found this helpful, thanks. Yours is the first resource I've come across that explains the way increased ISO can preserve highlight information with RED: it's just a cheat to cause us to stop down so our histogram reports good exposure. The traffic lights may have already been happy, but by doing this we just give the highlights that much more share of the data real estate. You found a simple way to make this easily absorbable. Thanks!
Ok so what I am trying to understand is that if you are clipping on the sensor, and changing the ISO won't change that, then isn't it that the only reason why the ISO you choose matters is because it will affect how you light the scene? But if you're NOT clipping on the sensor then the ISO you choose on set doesn't matter in terms of where you map your dynamic range because you can change that in post? In other words, the only time you need to worry about mapping your dynamic range is when you know the sensor is going to clip no matter what, so you're basically manipulating your lighting, aperture and NDs to choose what you want to clip? (so you are not using ISO to map your dynamic range essentially, you are using everything else. i.e. NDs aperutre, lights etc)
I think basically you’re right. It is true that ISO won’t prevent or lead to clipping. But where you expose something like skin tones still has an effect on how the image looks - so for example, if I’m shooting in a studio with controlled lighting and everything in the image is within the dynamic range of the camera (nothing is clipping), it’s true that you have a lot of flexibility after because the info is “there” - but if I expose skin tones for 400ISO versus 800ISO, I’m going to get much cleaner results across the board. So you are still choosing where the light sits on the sensor in essence. Does that answer your question?
I think the idea of raw is that you can adjust white balance after the fact. I try to get it somewhat close when shooting but have always found the R3D extremely forgiving with color adjustment. Definitely very important to get color balance right in the grade though!
Bro thanks for sharing. I am using the Epic Red Dragon and the color on it is amazing. I just added internal ND and a Global Shutter with the Motion Mount. Powerful
Thank you! you explained cleary and simply some complicated subjects. and it looks like u know what you are saying. it's hard to find on youtube. i subscribed 10 seconds into the video! 👌
Yeah, I am usually shooting in situations where I don't like losing too too much detail in the shadows so on the OG Komodo I rarely push it beyond 800 but I've seen successful examples of doing so for sure. On the Komodo X or raptor there's definitely more wiggle room IMHO.
Totally, my point was that with cameras that have gain, people crank it as a way of making the image feel brighter but it's not a substitute for light on a sensor...
hello, could you please make a new video and talk more on a real life exposure scenarios like this you are sitting by your bed ? what exactly setting you have and what do you use for setting exposure? false colors or GIO Scope?
Thanks for the video, very informative. I’m gonna share some of my thoughts as I just got the Komodo and watched hours of these traffic light tutorials I don’t understand why everyone keeps making the claim that iso doesn’t matter then they say it matters for highlight/shadow protection. Many sources say that the footage actually directly benefits from the practice that you described (shifting the middle gray point, higher iso when more light and so on). I understood you that it’s more of an exposure adjustment dial for monitoring purposes than something that affects the image directly. And the example with lower iso for moody scenes with less light makes a lot of sense to me, I can see how I would want to have darker look but still expose kind of to the right if possible. But the example with shooting higher iso in bright exterior scenes is strange - I’m either gonna look at annoyingly bright monitor that doesn’t reflect how I want my footage to look, or I will up the iso and then compensate so much with NDs and/or iris that shadows will get noisy. Feels like it’s better to stay at 800/500 and just watch traffic lights, unless there’s actually some benefit for the footage when raising iso
ISO definitely matters, it's just not baked in in the same way that it would be in non-raw footage which allows for some extra flexibility. But yes, you're totally correct, it definitely still matters!
great video ! but ISO has never changed the amount of light hitting the sensor, it's a digital boost of the signal after the sensor, so it's working like every other camera, it's just that in raw ISO are closer to Exposure Index than true ISO on other camera because you're aways recording your native iso and have the choice to modify it in post !
Thanks, you're totally right. Yeah, the way I said that part isn't particularly articulate. My main goal was to try to talk about the affects of approach to exposure on the image and that there is a difference between gain based cameras & raw ones.
Finally. You are the first of many who actually in clear, clean and well constructed manner where able to explain and deliver how this actually works.
Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Love when tutorial about exposure starts with clipping on face😅
Hah, very fair. I was thinking shooting in a hard to exposure environment would be a good for this one but then the whole no one monitoring as the sun rapidly shifted caught up with me rather harshly... thanks for watching.
💀
Red actually says to raise the ISO to 1600 or higher in daylight / bright scenes because it gives you a better image from shifting dynamic rage to the middle / highlights. They use examples and show how the affects the raw image. You of course have to adjust ND or f-srop ass needed. I think few people really shoot this way but it makes sense once you see the test footage.
Where can I see that ?
@@aarontimizar The Komodo user manual.
I found this helpful, thanks. Yours is the first resource I've come across that explains the way increased ISO can preserve highlight information with RED: it's just a cheat to cause us to stop down so our histogram reports good exposure. The traffic lights may have already been happy, but by doing this we just give the highlights that much more share of the data real estate. You found a simple way to make this easily absorbable. Thanks!
I'm glad, yes that's exactly it. I feel like once you can wrap your brain around what's happening it makes a lot of sense.
You should show what settings you change on the camera for each given scenario
Thanks for the video! This is the first time I've understood how this works
Glad it helped!
Hey Sam, amazing content as usual!
Appreciate it!
Ok so what I am trying to understand is that if you are clipping on the sensor, and changing the ISO won't change that, then isn't it that the only reason why the ISO you choose matters is because it will affect how you light the scene? But if you're NOT clipping on the sensor then the ISO you choose on set doesn't matter in terms of where you map your dynamic range because you can change that in post? In other words, the only time you need to worry about mapping your dynamic range is when you know the sensor is going to clip no matter what, so you're basically manipulating your lighting, aperture and NDs to choose what you want to clip? (so you are not using ISO to map your dynamic range essentially, you are using everything else. i.e. NDs aperutre, lights etc)
I think basically you’re right. It is true that ISO won’t prevent or lead to clipping. But where you expose something like skin tones still has an effect on how the image looks - so for example, if I’m shooting in a studio with controlled lighting and everything in the image is within the dynamic range of the camera (nothing is clipping), it’s true that you have a lot of flexibility after because the info is “there” - but if I expose skin tones for 400ISO versus 800ISO, I’m going to get much cleaner results across the board. So you are still choosing where the light sits on the sensor in essence. Does that answer your question?
@@samdotroden Ahhhh gootchaa. yes that make sense. Thanks a lot!!!
Thank you so much how important is white balance on a red camera is that also a lut based idea do you need to adjust your white balance ?
I think the idea of raw is that you can adjust white balance after the fact. I try to get it somewhat close when shooting but have always found the R3D extremely forgiving with color adjustment. Definitely very important to get color balance right in the grade though!
Bro thanks for sharing. I am using the Epic Red Dragon and the color on it is amazing. I just added internal ND and a Global Shutter with the Motion Mount. Powerful
Thanks for watching. Wow I’ve not heard of the motion mount before
Thank you! you explained cleary and simply some complicated subjects. and it looks like u know what you are saying. it's hard to find on youtube. i subscribed 10 seconds into the video! 👌
Thanks, glad it was helpful
Love it. Thanks, Sam! 🎥
There is a significant difference in highlight retention going over 800 iso on these RED's.
Yeah, I am usually shooting in situations where I don't like losing too too much detail in the shadows so on the OG Komodo I rarely push it beyond 800 but I've seen successful examples of doing so for sure. On the Komodo X or raptor there's definitely more wiggle room IMHO.
Good explanation.
Thanks!
No iso affects how much light hits your sensor
Totally, my point was that with cameras that have gain, people crank it as a way of making the image feel brighter but it's not a substitute for light on a sensor...
@@samdotroden yeah its just a semantic issue where you phrase it early in a way that could confuse people. Its a great video though👌
@@JohnFultonCGL makes sense, appreciate the feedback and thanks for watching!
Great video dude!!
Thanks! Really appreciate it
hello, could you please make a new video and talk more on a real life exposure scenarios like this you are sitting by your bed ? what exactly setting you have and what do you use for setting exposure? false colors or GIO Scope?
Thanks for the video, very informative. I’m gonna share some of my thoughts as I just got the Komodo and watched hours of these traffic light tutorials
I don’t understand why everyone keeps making the claim that iso doesn’t matter then they say it matters for highlight/shadow protection. Many sources say that the footage actually directly benefits from the practice that you described (shifting the middle gray point, higher iso when more light and so on). I understood you that it’s more of an exposure adjustment dial for monitoring purposes than something that affects the image directly.
And the example with lower iso for moody scenes with less light makes a lot of sense to me, I can see how I would want to have darker look but still expose kind of to the right if possible. But the example with shooting higher iso in bright exterior scenes is strange - I’m either gonna look at annoyingly bright monitor that doesn’t reflect how I want my footage to look, or I will up the iso and then compensate so much with NDs and/or iris that shadows will get noisy. Feels like it’s better to stay at 800/500 and just watch traffic lights, unless there’s actually some benefit for the footage when raising iso
ISO definitely matters, it's just not baked in in the same way that it would be in non-raw footage which allows for some extra flexibility. But yes, you're totally correct, it definitely still matters!
great video ! but ISO has never changed the amount of light hitting the sensor, it's a digital boost of the signal after the sensor, so it's working like every other camera, it's just that in raw ISO are closer to Exposure Index than true ISO on other camera because you're aways recording your native iso and have the choice to modify it in post !
Thanks, you're totally right. Yeah, the way I said that part isn't particularly articulate. My main goal was to try to talk about the affects of approach to exposure on the image and that there is a difference between gain based cameras & raw ones.
I would start and exposure video without overexposing your face 😅