Wow ! My 2002 R1100s abs looks to be the same Heard horror stories about doing this abs bleeding MANY thanks for sharing these superb videos I will give it a go once I find a suitable plastic bottle /funnel Update : Did this last year as my rear brake abs was sticking on !!! Works fine now ; superb money saving assistance from your videos CHEERS I used a spare old 12v battery to run the abs motor & keep clearing the dirty oil out & save my good battery on the bike
I was also a little skeptical but in vain. I haven't done that myself before, so I wanted to try and did very well 👍. I thought this video could be useful for all DIY people. And great if it is useful. 😊
@@JaniVoutilainen Just replaced all of my OEM sh1t hoses for expensive goodridge braided ones A bit of a pig trying to get all the air out until eventually I got a rhythm going with running pump longer and watching the bubbles up into the funnel The funnel with a clear tube and rubber adapter to fit the abs reservoir is a gr8 help for this purpose So far all good = no warnings or fault lights and brakes feel excellent Cheers again Jani Seen some other videos about not needing funnel ?! might be ok for a service but NOT if you are changing hoses and running pump for longer bleeding purposes ; use a spare battery too 👍
Thanks for great videos. So clear. I am in the process of doing my 2002 and hit a snag that bears noting for others. If not careful when replacing the wiring plug on the ABS unit (all those pins) it is possible to push one of the pins down such that a connection is lost. In my case it meant constant cycling of the pump on start-up/activation. Searching for an answer on a 2014 UK website gave me a clue. Sure enough, pulling the pin back up meant a good contact again and the pump cycles off after the test, working as it is supposed to. Thanks again for the great and confidence inspiring video.
Great that the video inspires and encourages you to do the maintenance yourself! 👏 Sometimes your own work can fail, but that feeling of success is great when the problem gets solved!
Great video and super helpful. One question though, when pushing the caliper bores all the way in, wouldn’t brake fluid first have to be drawn off from the under tank reservoirs? Not sure if there’s enough room in the system to compensate for the displaced brake fluid.
Hi before doing this full fluid change were there any ABS warning light abnormal signals as I am looking at a 2001 R1150R which has some ABS warning light signals intermittent
Hi Just a observation I would think leaving the pistons out slightly could leave old fluid in the system and possibly air which is what you don’t want in the system so holding the pistons out limits the possible void for air and old fluid.
Great that the video has been helpful! 😊 True! I've probably read the instructions incorrectly. The instructions tell you the warning text: "When changing and bleeding the control circuit brake fluid, do not use vacuum extraction". But Bleeding / changing brake fluid in wheel circuit, there is no such mention. Anyway, I actually rely more on the traditional style because you may not see air bubbles during vacuum extraction. 👍
Excellent video! Thanks so much...you saved me serious money. One question, why must you remove the calipers and install the shim when bleeding system? Could I just keep them in place like on a car?
Thanks! 😊 The brake cylinders must be positioned as deep as possible in the brake calipers. If the brake pads are worn, it is a good idea to replace the brake pads with blocks. There’s a BMW tool for that, but I did the work with the blocks.
on similar model during bleeding (before watching your videos) I've got the abs and warning lights blinking , can you help with reseting the error, thanks
System does its own system check every time it's turned on. You can download service manual for R1150R from here: bmw.k100rs.free.fr/files/repair_manuals/BMW_R1150R_ABS_ENG.pdf Check the page 42 ( [Integral ABS] Changing/bleeding brake fluid in wheel circuit) The ABS warning light should flash when stationary. When you start driving, it should go off. Air can be drawn into the brake system but if this the case; bleed the system again. I hope this will help! 👍
![Bleeding brake fluids from CONTROL CIRCUIT [Integral ABS] - Part 1 - BMW Motorrad R1150R](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/oWuON5jGLZk/mqdefault.jpg)
Wow ! My 2002 R1100s abs looks to be the same
Heard horror stories about doing this abs bleeding
MANY thanks for sharing these superb videos
I will give it a go once I find a suitable plastic bottle /funnel
Update : Did this last year as my rear brake abs was sticking on !!! Works fine now ; superb money saving assistance from your videos CHEERS
I used a spare old 12v battery to run the abs motor & keep clearing the dirty oil out & save my good battery on the bike
I was also a little skeptical but in vain.
I haven't done that myself before, so I wanted to try and did very well 👍.
I thought this video could be useful for all DIY people. And great if it is useful. 😊
@@JaniVoutilainen
Just replaced all of my OEM sh1t hoses for expensive goodridge braided ones
A bit of a pig trying to get all the air out until eventually I got a rhythm going with running pump longer and watching the bubbles up into the funnel
The funnel with a clear tube and rubber adapter to fit the abs reservoir is a gr8 help for this purpose
So far all good = no warnings or fault lights and brakes feel excellent
Cheers again Jani
Seen some other videos about not needing funnel ?! might be ok for a service but NOT if you are changing hoses and running pump for longer bleeding purposes ; use a spare battery too 👍
Very good both videos. I have learned a lot. Thanks you very much.
You're welcome! 😊
Very well done and exactly how it should be done. This is the same for the R1200rt, gs with servo brake 2004 thru 2008. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for great videos. So clear. I am in the process of doing my 2002 and hit a snag that bears noting for others. If not careful when replacing the wiring plug on the ABS unit (all those pins) it is possible to push one of the pins down such that a connection is lost. In my case it meant constant cycling of the pump on start-up/activation. Searching for an answer on a 2014 UK website gave me a clue. Sure enough, pulling the pin back up meant a good contact again and the pump cycles off after the test, working as it is supposed to. Thanks again for the great and confidence inspiring video.
Great that the video inspires and encourages you to do the maintenance yourself! 👏
Sometimes your own work can fail, but that feeling of success is great when the problem gets solved!
Great Video very detailed . Just another question what were the bleed ports 1-2-3 be for on each circuit.
this is gold. Whatever possessed me to buy this bike lol.
Easy to follow and all the info is presented good job and thanks
Thanks you for your video , it is very clear .
You're welcome! 😊
Thanks for this video.
Thanks for sharing this. Very informative.
Great video and super helpful. One question though, when pushing the caliper bores all the way in, wouldn’t brake fluid first have to be drawn off from the under tank reservoirs? Not sure if there’s enough room in the system to compensate for the displaced brake fluid.
Great help, enjoyed thank you
You're welcome! 👍
Hi before doing this full fluid change were there any ABS warning light abnormal signals as I am looking at a 2001 R1150R which has some ABS warning light signals intermittent
Thanks your video s so helpful
Great that the video is useful 😊
Hi Just a observation I would think leaving the pistons out slightly could leave old fluid in the system and possibly air which is what you don’t want in the system so holding the pistons out limits the possible void for air and old fluid.
Great video. Well done!
You say when changing fluids in control circuit do not use vacuum extraction.Why? Thanks for the videos! Very helpful.
Great that the video has been helpful! 😊
True! I've probably read the instructions incorrectly.
The instructions tell you the warning text: "When changing and bleeding the control circuit
brake fluid, do not use vacuum extraction".
But Bleeding / changing brake fluid in wheel circuit, there is no such mention.
Anyway, I actually rely more on the traditional style because you may not see air bubbles during vacuum extraction. 👍
Yes you are right. Thanks again!
Very helpful, thanks
Excellent video! Thanks so much...you saved me serious money. One question, why must you remove the calipers and install the shim when bleeding system? Could I just keep them in place like on a car?
Thanks! 😊
The brake cylinders must be positioned as deep as possible in the brake calipers. If the brake pads are worn, it is a good idea to replace the brake pads with blocks. There’s a BMW tool for that, but I did the work with the blocks.
Klasse Video, vielen Dank
Super, thanks a lot!
You're welcome! 😊
Qu'elle épaisseur la calle en bois? Merci
Hello Yani,
Do you have the référence of the oil bottle ? 🤔
on similar model during bleeding (before watching your videos) I've got the abs and warning lights blinking , can you help with reseting the error, thanks
System does its own system check every time it's turned on.
You can download service manual for R1150R from here:
bmw.k100rs.free.fr/files/repair_manuals/BMW_R1150R_ABS_ENG.pdf
Check the page 42 ( [Integral ABS] Changing/bleeding brake fluid in wheel circuit)
The ABS warning light should flash when stationary. When you start driving, it should go off.
Air can be drawn into the brake system but if this the case; bleed the system again.
I hope this will help! 👍
Genial
Why can´t you just leave the calipers in place on the discs? Not critisizing, just curious.
Part 3- BMW
Useless