This is a great video! Learnt alot, will probably forget it before i can put it to use on a vehicle but its available here when i need it! Thank you OPUS!
PRODIGY Damon Howes OPUS IVS VAG Master Technician Sharing what you know with us Thank you very much helpful information video Loved it From the start to finish. Take care and have a great day God bless you KNOWLEDGEABLE Damon Howes OPUS IVS VAG Master Technician From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Great Video!! I have changed the fuel pressure regulator but not made adaptions, how do I do this as I believe this is now the potential cause of p0087... please help 🤦♂️🤦♂️
Thank you so much for this informative video. Please help me understand this: My car (Passat 2.0 tdi) is stumbling and misfiring when I give sudden acceleration (around 3000 and above). Then it goes to limp mode with p0087 code. No starting issues. It starts in one crank While driving normally (with minimal rpms) the car runs smooth. Checked all the injectors and wiring. Sharing the vcds details taken at around 2500 rpm (idle) Fuel pressure: 31000 kpa High pressure specified : 31900 kpa Pressure regulator valve specified: 719200kpa Pressure regulator valve: 32.4% High fuel pressure control deviation: -2000hpa
Do cr tdi fuel system hold fuel pressure when engine is turned off or do they bleed the pressure away? Mine drops to nothing fairly quickly less than a minute. I also have a rich code for the 02 sensor p0132 which i suspect a leaking dribbling injector. How do i varying this?
I have a gas 2.0tfsi. 2012 audi a4, no cel or codes but high fuel trims at idle. Ltft +20 after warmed up and +9 at initial start up. Do you know low pressure spec? I see 3 bar key on engine off. With engine running my guage jumps from 2 to 3 bar at idle very very quickly. High pressure actual and specified is spot on. However injection volume is - 20 mm³ . Fuel trims go to normal when crusing and under load if not slightly negative. Fuel pump duty cycle is around 50%. If the fuel pump I'd primed 2x it does reach 5 bar with engine off and no real drive ability issues. High side pressure rises and holds like expected when shut off. I suspect the low pressure pump is getting weak or even a dirty fuel filter restriction
Brilliant video, thank you. Could I ask you, how do I go about recoding the fuel regulator and high pressure fuel pump. I’ve replaced the high pressure fuel pump and now the car won’t start. Comes up with low fuel pressure rail. Live date shows the rail is sitting at 8 bar and fluctuates between 8 and 0. I have primed the fuel system using vcds. Thanks Tom
Recoding the fuel regulator? If just the HPFP was replaced and now there is a no start, it’s sound like the pump is out of time assuming the car ran beforehand?! The only component that needs coded in the system are the fuel injectors if replaced.
Hi. I've had this problem with my caac engine. I'm adamant it's the rail pressure regulator. I've changed it after lumpy running, but reused the o ring. It runs smooth now but goes limp at 3200 revs. I've attempted a re learn but it still does it. Linked to old o ring maybe?
Hi Neil, the job of the fuel pressure regulator on the end of the rail is to smooth out the rail pressure at idle. Have you removed the fuel metering valve from the high pressure pump to check for swarf? Is this giving you any fault codes? (P0087) What is the actual and specified rail pressure at 3200 rpm? Thanks Damon
@@AutologicTV Hi Damon, I've just replaced the pressure regulator at the end of the rail on my 2.0tdi CAH engine (audi b8), the idle hunting is still there even after a few miles driving and relearning/adapting the cont/pressure values in VCDS. I've not replaced the sensor on the front yet but I've heard these don't normally fail? Could I just need to drive the car longer? Engine runs and pulls fine above 2k revs and at speed. Just really rough idle at standstill. Appreciate it.
Very informative video I have 2015 Vw Jetta 2.0 TDI It was down for 18 months in Bodyshop It was treated with a fuel additive ( which we think was a mixture of linseed oil ) It began smoking , then , rough idle , then no start We removed fuel rail , cleaned regulator , fuel rail & fuel metering unit With break clean fluid All had contained a gummy sticky looked like honey Pumped out fuel tank Added 5 gals best quality diesel and 1 can moly diesel purge My question is how to remove the very very small amount that is on the sides of the port where the fuel metering unit sits in I have purchased new complete fuel rail includes regulator, sensor , & new metering unit But not going to install until I’m certain injectors are clean Any suggestions on cleaning the metering unit cup on top of high pressure fuel pump
With known good fuel in the tank. Run the pump but have the return disconnected at the pump over to a catch can. Run a few gallons through the system. If you had metal in the system the entire system will need to be replaced.
@@AutologicTV metal debris in common rail system are pretty often. I wonder...what cause this fault? Some old Siemens VDO pump, are now 20 years with 450,000km odo and pretty good condition, but some other simens are replaced much often. Its not possible to be "internal construction deffect" or random fault. Imo, problem is somewhere in system. Bad injector, faulty fuel press. sensor, bad Control valve, driving with MIL on...in your opinion, it is possible, that system which work not as factory designed could damage pumps?
Audi A4 B8 CAGA 2.0tdi CR: Not exactly sure what hunting is. My car may be experienceing it. At idle sometimes rpm is stable but more often recently RPM is jumping up to 1100 then dropping. Eventually sometimes it gives up on 700rpm and settles on 1100 where it is somewhat stable. Very interesting video and worth watching it several times. Given that the fuel filter was replaced about 5-6 years ago 😅 (yes) do you think I should start from there? Would CR pressure regulator be the next to check? Thanks in advance for any help
Hello Opus IVS. Just watched you excellent video - a great piece of work. I need help and I don't know where to turn. I have a 2019 Audi A8. I have owned the car nearly from new. After driving to my house in Provence (1000 miles over 2 days) the car developed a detonation knock. This happens under load and is very loud between 1400 & 2000 rpm. AUDI under warranty have had the car in 6 times and are unable to fix the issue. During one visit they did detect low fuel pressure in the high pressure system, They fitted a pressure sensor and this did seem to help the issue. But after another 500 mile drive the issue returned. I am starting to suspect the pressure regulator. Do you think this device could inspire detonation if it was not working correctly? If you can spare the time to reply I would be extremely grateful. A footnote: when the car has undergone a 100 miles of motorway driving (at 130 KPH) the knocking becomes the loudest. If the throttle is slightly depressed at this speed from a cruising point of view and gentle acceleration is induced, a loud detonation knock sound fills the car. I really do need some help as I might have to sell the car because this issue is driving me mad!
Hi Lester, I have read through your comprehensive write up, and I take it this is a 3.0 TDI ? So the only way you can have pre detonation would be that fuel is entering the combustion chamber when it is not required or the car is trying to carry out a DPF regeneration, then it would add fuel to the combustion chamber early to increase the exhaust temperature for a regeneration. Have you a diagnostic tool to checks the idle stabilisation for each cylinder? As this will point out, if we have one or more leaking injectors, the other possibility is that there is an engine temp sensor reading a low value which would increase the injector on time. Hope this helps, Thanks Damon
@@AutologicTV Thank you very much Damon for taking the time out to post this reply. I really do appreciate it. Yes it is a 3.0 TDI (Audi 50 engine). Fully understand your reasoning. A simple question, can a weak mixture cause detonation knock. I have noticed when the engine is stone cold, the engine runs normally. As soon as the engine gains heat the knock starts. The hotter the engine the worst it gets. When driving at 80mph on a neutral/trailing throttle the engine runs without knock. However adding a very small amount of throttle to very slightly increase speed a loud knocking is clearly heard.
@@laapulsford Yes, a weak mixture or inefficient burn could cause a "Pinking" or "detonation" knock! The rev range could make a difference, as the EGR should switch off on the engine at around 1800rpm and if it is sticking this could cause an inefficient burn in the combustion chamber. You could prove the weak mixture theory by disconnecting the Engine coolant temp sensor and see if it improves, as this should default the coolant temp to -40 degrees and in turn increase the fuelling.
Ford focus 2013 1.6 Tdci after fuel filter change I get P0087 low pressure. Changed filter again (thought my new was bad) changed fuel filter regulator still get the code. It happens on acceleration it goes into safe mode. It goes just up to 500bar and then drops. Or it just stall the car completely. All in order, injections in order, no smoke when I rev it. No clue what to look for next 😢 Ford couldn't find what is the isue
hello my q2 won't start with only in tank fuel pressure at rail ,there is only 5 volts at the rail pressure regulator, should this 12v the same as the valve on the hp pump
Hi, Depending on the engine code it can have a 12v supply and ECU controlled earth or some of the 1.4 diesels have a permanent earth and ECU controlled feed
This is a great video! Learnt alot, will probably forget it before i can put it to use on a vehicle but its available here when i need it! Thank you OPUS!
PRODIGY Damon Howes OPUS IVS VAG
Master Technician
Sharing what you know with us Thank you very much helpful information video
Loved it From the start to finish. Take care and have a great day God bless you
KNOWLEDGEABLE Damon Howes OPUS IVS VAG Master Technician
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Thanks for the kind words Nick
Fantastic video very knowledgeable and helpful thank you
Thank you so much for the video, it really helped me trace out a few problems that I had with my common rail tdi 😊😊😊
Great Video!! I have changed the fuel pressure regulator but not made adaptions, how do I do this as I believe this is now the potential cause of p0087... please help 🤦♂️🤦♂️
Will the fuel pressure regulator not work, if the adaptation isn't done?
Brilliant video thanks you for shearing your knowledge
Great video thanks.
Thank you so much for this informative video. Please help me understand this:
My car (Passat 2.0 tdi) is stumbling and misfiring when I give sudden acceleration (around 3000 and above). Then it goes to limp mode with p0087 code. No starting issues. It starts in one crank
While driving normally (with minimal rpms) the car runs smooth. Checked all the injectors and wiring. Sharing the vcds details taken at around 2500 rpm (idle)
Fuel pressure: 31000 kpa
High pressure specified : 31900 kpa
Pressure regulator valve specified: 719200kpa
Pressure regulator valve: 32.4%
High fuel pressure control deviation: -2000hpa
same problem,what was the issue
@@mykye51 Turned out to be a high pressure fuel pump issue. Replaced it and now the car runs smooth. Check your fuel filter before
@@Travelpalatein thank you.
@@Travelpalatein what was wrong with it?
Do cr tdi fuel system hold fuel pressure when engine is turned off or do they bleed the pressure away?
Mine drops to nothing fairly quickly less than a minute.
I also have a rich code for the 02 sensor p0132 which i suspect a leaking dribbling injector. How do i varying this?
Wow. Brilliant video. Liked and subbed.i wish I watched this video before replacing low pressure fuel pump and high pressure pump 🙄🙄🙄
Thanks for the kind words
I have a gas 2.0tfsi. 2012 audi a4, no cel or codes but high fuel trims at idle. Ltft +20 after warmed up and +9 at initial start up. Do you know low pressure spec? I see 3 bar key on engine off. With engine running my guage jumps from 2 to 3 bar at idle very very quickly. High pressure actual and specified is spot on. However injection volume is - 20 mm³ . Fuel trims go to normal when crusing and under load if not slightly negative. Fuel pump duty cycle is around 50%. If the fuel pump I'd primed 2x it does reach 5 bar with engine off and no real drive ability issues. High side pressure rises and holds like expected when shut off. I suspect the low pressure pump is getting weak or even a dirty fuel filter restriction
Brilliant video, thank you.
Could I ask you, how do I go about recoding the fuel regulator and high pressure fuel pump. I’ve replaced the high pressure fuel pump and now the car won’t start. Comes up with low fuel pressure rail. Live date shows the rail is sitting at 8 bar and fluctuates between 8 and 0. I have primed the fuel system using vcds. Thanks Tom
Recoding the fuel regulator? If just the HPFP was replaced and now there is a no start, it’s sound like the pump is out of time assuming the car ran beforehand?! The only component that needs coded in the system are the fuel injectors if replaced.
Hi. I've had this problem with my caac engine. I'm adamant it's the rail pressure regulator. I've changed it after lumpy running, but reused the o ring. It runs smooth now but goes limp at 3200 revs. I've attempted a re learn but it still does it. Linked to old o ring maybe?
Hi Neil, the job of the fuel pressure regulator on the end of the rail is to smooth out the rail pressure at idle. Have you removed the fuel metering valve from the high pressure pump to check for swarf? Is this giving you any fault codes? (P0087) What is the actual and specified rail pressure at 3200 rpm? Thanks Damon
@@AutologicTV Hi Damon, I've just replaced the pressure regulator at the end of the rail on my 2.0tdi CAH engine (audi b8), the idle hunting is still there even after a few miles driving and relearning/adapting the cont/pressure values in VCDS.
I've not replaced the sensor on the front yet but I've heard these don't normally fail?
Could I just need to drive the car longer? Engine runs and pulls fine above 2k revs and at speed. Just really rough idle at standstill.
Appreciate it.
Very informative video
I have 2015 Vw Jetta 2.0 TDI
It was down for 18 months in Bodyshop
It was treated with a fuel additive ( which we think was a mixture of linseed oil )
It began smoking , then , rough idle , then no start
We removed fuel rail , cleaned regulator , fuel rail & fuel metering unit
With break clean fluid
All had contained a gummy sticky looked like honey
Pumped out fuel tank
Added 5 gals best quality diesel and 1 can moly diesel purge
My question is how to remove the very very small amount that is on the sides of the port where the fuel metering unit sits in
I have purchased new complete fuel rail includes regulator, sensor , & new metering unit
But not going to install until I’m certain injectors are clean
Any suggestions on cleaning the metering unit cup on top of high pressure fuel pump
With known good fuel in the tank. Run the pump but have the return disconnected at the pump over to a catch can. Run a few gallons through the system.
If you had metal in the system the entire system will need to be replaced.
@@AutologicTV metal debris in common rail system are pretty often. I wonder...what cause this fault? Some old Siemens VDO pump, are now 20 years with 450,000km odo and pretty good condition, but some other simens are replaced much often. Its not possible to be "internal construction deffect" or random fault. Imo, problem is somewhere in system. Bad injector, faulty fuel press. sensor, bad Control valve, driving with MIL on...in your opinion, it is possible, that system which work not as factory designed could damage pumps?
Audi A4 B8 CAGA 2.0tdi CR: Not exactly sure what hunting is. My car may be experienceing it. At idle sometimes rpm is stable but more often recently RPM is jumping up to 1100 then dropping. Eventually sometimes it gives up on 700rpm and settles on 1100 where it is somewhat stable.
Very interesting video and worth watching it several times. Given that the fuel filter was replaced about 5-6 years ago 😅 (yes) do you think I should start from there? Would CR pressure regulator be the next to check?
Thanks in advance for any help
Forgot to add: The car has plenty of power and good acceleration. The only issue is idle RPM
Hello Opus IVS. Just watched you excellent video - a great piece of work. I need help and I don't know where to turn. I have a 2019 Audi A8. I have owned the car nearly from new. After driving to my house in Provence (1000 miles over 2 days) the car developed a detonation knock. This happens under load and is very loud between 1400 & 2000 rpm. AUDI under warranty have had the car in 6 times and are unable to fix the issue. During one visit they did detect low fuel pressure in the high pressure system, They fitted a pressure sensor and this did seem to help the issue. But after another 500 mile drive the issue returned. I am starting to suspect the pressure regulator. Do you think this device could inspire detonation if it was not working correctly? If you can spare the time to reply I would be extremely grateful. A footnote: when the car has undergone a 100 miles of motorway driving (at 130 KPH) the knocking becomes the loudest. If the throttle is slightly depressed at this speed from a cruising point of view and gentle acceleration is induced, a loud detonation knock sound fills the car. I really do need some help as I might have to sell the car because this issue is driving me mad!
Hi Lester, I have read through your comprehensive write up, and I take it this is a 3.0 TDI ? So the only way you can have pre detonation would be that fuel is entering the combustion chamber when it is not required or the car is trying to carry out a DPF regeneration, then it would add fuel to the combustion chamber early to increase the exhaust temperature for a regeneration. Have you a diagnostic tool to checks the idle stabilisation for each cylinder? As this will point out, if we have one or more leaking injectors, the other possibility is that there is an engine temp sensor reading a low value which would increase the injector on time. Hope this helps, Thanks Damon
@@AutologicTV Thank you very much Damon for taking the time out to post this reply. I really do appreciate it. Yes it is a 3.0 TDI (Audi 50 engine). Fully understand your reasoning. A simple question, can a weak mixture cause detonation knock. I have noticed when the engine is stone cold, the engine runs normally. As soon as the engine gains heat the knock starts. The hotter the engine the worst it gets. When driving at 80mph on a neutral/trailing throttle the engine runs without knock. However adding a very small amount of throttle to very slightly increase speed a loud knocking is clearly heard.
@@laapulsford Yes, a weak mixture or inefficient burn could cause a "Pinking" or "detonation" knock! The rev range could make a difference, as the EGR should switch off on the engine at around 1800rpm and if it is sticking this could cause an inefficient burn in the combustion chamber. You could prove the weak mixture theory by disconnecting the Engine coolant temp sensor and see if it improves, as this should default the coolant temp to -40 degrees and in turn increase the fuelling.
Awesome video👍
Ford focus 2013 1.6 Tdci after fuel filter change I get P0087 low pressure.
Changed filter again (thought my new was bad) changed fuel filter regulator still get the code.
It happens on acceleration it goes into safe mode. It goes just up to 500bar and then drops. Or it just stall the car completely. All in order, injections in order, no smoke when I rev it. No clue what to look for next 😢 Ford couldn't find what is the isue
Air not bleed from filter. Get a vac pump kit with the container attachment and vac out the air and fuel to prime it and get all the air out
hello my q2 won't start with only in tank fuel pressure at rail ,there is only 5 volts at the rail pressure regulator, should this 12v the same as the valve on the hp pump
Hi, Depending on the engine code it can have a 12v supply and ECU controlled earth or some of the 1.4 diesels have a permanent earth and ECU controlled feed
Isn’t 6 and 8 wrong way around? 🤔
I can't hear him...he's whispering
I cranked it right up!
Ssshhhh suspens ..may b his wife sleeping 😭😭😭
My Kia sorento CRDI 2009 crank no start all injectors shut down cranking fuel spike to 120 MPa and drop to 12.800 MPa target pressure reguested
Target pressure 300.800 MPa please what should I check next SCV is good function got crank no start no fault code at all sir please help me thanks
A really good video but the audio is terrible, sounds like a Greta Thunberg lecture lol