Just for additional info, isang naging reason kung bakit naging mabenta yung true rated na term dito sa Pinas is because of the abundance of what you call "Generic" powersupplies. Yung mga Generic powersupplies na sinasabi na rating nila is 600watts but in reality ang rating talaga nila is more or less 250 watts. Sa Term na to nila nadidifferentiate yung fake rated sa true rated na powersupplies.
Wassup internet! Another quality content, marami nanamang pinoy ang namulat sa fake news! Thanks po dito sir, as always d ako naboring sa buong vid, keep it up sir 🇵🇭🙏👋😁😇
anong quality content? anong namulat sa fake news? hahaha ilan sa mga sinasiba nya is mali, hahaha, quality pa ba yun? hahaha, kung tutuusin sya pa nga ng.sspread ng fake news eh.
mas madaling sundan yung ganito, yung utay utay ang video tutorial kaysa sa minsanan kasi nga information overload ang mangyayari, nice one thanks for your uploads malaking tulong talaga
Para kong nanonood ng netflix series dito.. looking forward sa next episode 😅.. thanks sir sa lahat ng shini-share mong info... Balak ko din mag build pag natanggap ang bonus .. napakagaan ng explanation, hindi info overload.. narerefresh yung kaalaman ko, last kong nakahawak ng bini-build 2010 pa.. napag iwanan na..
For those who wants to build their own PC, I recommend you to watch this video. Ito ang pinaka-basic na dapat malaman ng isang nagsisimulang mag build. Bottom line: You should not make TIPID on choosing a Power Supply Unit for your mamahaling peripherals.
Dami kc bandwagoner na pinoy nakapanuod lng ng video s youtube about s kompyuter dumami ang alam! 1st time bumuo ng pc dhil pandemic nakiuso nanuod s youtube dumami ang alam! Salamat dami n nmn naliwanagan s sinabi mo lodz!
2:20 sir yung wattage na 65watts ng Ryzen R7 3700x na tinutukoy nyo po is TDP which is heat load. ang power consumption ng processor na yan at idle is 70watts idle, 150watts load. hindi po buong system unit, just the processor itself. tdp is totally different sa powerconsumption ng processor
@@blackship2380 hindi po advertised ng manufacturer like ni intel at AMD. but you can find out kung ano power consumption nya thru reviews (aritcles and youtube reviews) try to check back2gaming, tomshardware, anandtech, guru3d, techpowerup
You can use power supply calculator to gauge yung power requirement ng system mo. It's not as accurate 100% but it will give you an idea how much PSU capacity you would need. Been using it for years on all my builds (personal and clients). Take note din yung future upgrades/additions na balak mo. Pero kung on a limited budget this tool may help get the right PSU capacity for your current system build.
e2 ung pag kakaintindi ko.. ex. 500watts generic = kayang ireach ung 500watts pero saglit lng.. d sya continuous.. true-rated = kayang ireach ung 500watts and kaya nya continuous 500watts.. 80+ certified = kayang ireach ung 500watts + kaya nya continuous 500watts + mas efficient / tipid kuryente tips : just go for atleast bronze certified with popular brand like .. seasonic corsair bequiet evga coolermaster
Use your hand gestures more sir, mas maganda panoorin. Parang mas may human interaction, parang robot kasi pag wala. Very informative content though, thanks.
haha may nagsasabi naman that I use my hands too much :p I will try to be less robotic 🤖 although napansin nung editing staff ko na mas animated ako towards the end of the videos, I need to warm up first
First time ko narinig yang 'true rated' around 2014-2015, sobrang nagkalat mga used pc parts at kahit sa bangketa merong nagtitinda. Mababasa mo sa sticker label ng mga used psu rated/peak power, marketing na lang talaga by adding positive adjective sa description at yun na nga naimbento ang 'true rated'.
pwede ka po ba gumawa ng parang ganito about sa mga avr, ups, or surge protectors pati ung required na voltage or wattages sa mga ganto. Dito ako nalilito eh
@@hwsph tanong ko lang sir 700w 80+ bronze psu ko kaso ang laki tapos r3 3200g lang naka lagay walang gpu so ang laki ng kinukuha niyang kuryente tapos na sasayang lang dahil mahina nagagamit or mahina lang kukunin niya kasi mahina lang din kinukunsumo ng aking pc?
@@paulo12121967 nope, kung ilan lang kailangan ng r3 3200g mo is ayung lang nakukuhang power sa saksakan, 700W means ayun max power na kayang kuhain ng psu mo, not always 700W kinukuha thru saksakan.
gamit ko korean true rated PSU, 2 years na ngayun, 8 hours per day dota2 laru palagi minsan nga mahalos 24hrs laro... walang off2x... 2 pc same PSU.... rx580 ang gpu q both PC, tag 650php lang 650watts sa shopee... ok pa naman... walang sira...
Kya po my inefficiency is dahil ang PSU is AC to DC conveter. AC power po ang source na kuryente while DC power po ang required ng mga PC components. My conversion so my inefficiency. It can be improved by using higher quality psu components like capacitors, voltage regulators, filters etc... Kya my mga bronze, silver, gold, platinum at titanium depende sa mga pyesa na ginamit to build the PSU. More efficiency means mas tipid sa kuryente at stable ang supplied voltages sa PC mo for long lifespan ng mga parts. Anyway, im using seasonic prime ultra 650W 80+ Titanium
Nanggaling yung marketing term na "true rated" after generic power supplies *exploded* in popularity in the Philippines. Since they are advertised as 700w kahit na 200w lang ang actual maximum output, naisip na gamitin yung "true rated" term for power supplies to signify na yung PSU rated as 700w, 700w nga.
matagal ko nang iniintay na may mag explain ng psu topic sa pinas ive seen alot of local youtuber build their pc that doesnt know about psu they're explaining the psu thing wrong like the rating of 80plus and the wattage when im building a pc for my friends i dont like to use korean psu kahit yon yung gusto nila most filipino sellers that build cheap pc needs to watch this hahaha and i remember the gloco build his tech guy explains the psu topic wrong thax for the vid imma share it to my friends and whoever ask me to build them a pc andd i always use the websites that calculate psu wattage acording to their needs
How I wish na this channel existed way back in 2018 when I built my pc. Ang dami kong natututunan na bago kahit akala ko alam ko na everything there is to know about basic pc parts
You really earn my subs! Husay! This is my 3rd video watching you explain and akala ko sapat na yung nalalaman ko about PC, madami pa pala dapat matutunan! Thumbs up sayo!
Pinanood ko ibang mga vids mo sir at lahat very informative, explained talaga ng maayos na madaling ma intindihan. Isa rin akong PC BUILDER dito sa amin pero bumibili lang ako ng mga parts sa iba-ibang shop local/online. Hoping to have my own Computer store soon.
nc real talk ka tlga mag salita and kahit tech ako mejo na igno ako sa mga true rated kac ngaun lang ako nag update interms of computer kasi nag focus ako sa work ko
Been using some random used 700w "True rated PSU" na around 900 pesos lang, works like a charm though it's a bit more noisy compared sa brand new 600w PSU ng pinsan ko. Currently using B450M, Ryzen 5 2600, and RX 480.
Pero risky na boss since if ever may masamang mangyari sa psu mo, possible na madadamay at masisira yung ibang components. If stock clock lang, medjo okay pa
Tama ka na walang standard ang nag-sasabi kung ano talaga ang ibig sabihin ng "true rated PSU." Pero this is an informal term used to mean that a PSU can actually give out the box-indicated wattage. Ibig sabihin, kapag sinabi sa box na 500W yun, kaya ng PSU to give out 500W to your PC's components. Yun lang naman yun & old time PC builders know this. :-)
this wasn't in the original plans for this series pero ang daming nag request so sige sama ko na :D will probably be a couple of weeks though before I get to it
5:23 tama naman lalo na sa mga local mga tindahan o online. pero nag exist yan dati pa sa dahil nagkaproblema yung ibang manufacturers vs sa iba dahil naglalagay sila ng PSU rating na puwede lang sustain ng ilang seconds. Usually, mga 10-15% mas mataas wattage kaya naimbento yang "True Rated" ng mga mas sikat/reputable brands ng PSU. Tinigil na lang yata nila yan kasi yung mga cheap o hindi kilalang PSUs ang patuloy gumagamit ng fake wattage rating. hindi relatable ang "true rated" sa "80 Plus certification". 80 plus ay para sa efficiency ng PSU, ang "true rated" para sa maximum wattage ng PSU 9:49 hindi naman all the time. sabi nga diyan sa Wiki 20%, 50%,100% load ang tinitingnan para sa certification
Though i don't like the marketing term na "true rated" may actual meaning talaga ito in terms of main DC power rails sa mga power supply. For example, ang advertised na rating ng PSU is 450w, but ang 12vdc rails niya ay nasa 30Amls lang pala which is 360w lang sa actual, the rest ng wattage ay mag-sum up to 450 kapag itotal mo na ying 5vdc at 3.3 vdc rails. Ang ganyang psu ay hindi true-rated. Magiging true rated lang kapag nasa 37.5Amps yung 12vdc rails which will total to 450w.
Thank you! Dahil sa mga Video mo nalalaman namin ang Tama at Mali. Ang dami kasing guru kuno jan na puro pag-mamarunong lang. create more vid please. =)
I learned a lot po. Thank you po for this video. Based on my experience po, I had my pc repaired in Gilmore kasi nag power cycle yung PC ko, and upon checking ang sabi sakin is ang problem ng PC is yung power supply so pinapalitan nya ko ng "True Rated" na power supply sabi nya mas maganda talaga daw talaga yun. Not sure pero pag nag add ako ng bagong components such as HDD or RAM nag power cycle uli yung PC ko. :(( hopefully sa psu lang ang problem ko hindi sa motherboard :((
to add, ATX PSU length is not standard. yung width and height lang standard. for example, mas mahaba yung mga modular power supplies. so need talaga idouble check if kasya sa case
Pinoy kasi mga kuripot karamihan kaya dyan nabuo ang Word True Rated and Generic PSU. Pag True Rated kaya meaning may kaya ka. Pag Generic Meaning nagtitipid ka well less weight at less materials ginamit. Kahit nga sa mga keyboard basta may makita silang Madaming Pailaw Mechanical na but they dont know the difference in Mechanical vs Membrane. More Words will be created in the future pag di parin natutong tumingin ang pinoy sa Budget vs Performance.
Sana ito naging teacher namin noon mas madami pa ko natutunan sa channel niya kesa sa university eh hahhahah sama mo na mga classmate mong walang interest pasok baon
Gumamit ako ng true rated psu before, dahil di kaya ng generic psu ko ang gtx 660ti na bagong bili ko dati. Nagamit ko naman sya ng almost 2 years at ayos parin sya ngayon, Acbel brand sya 600 watts 600 pesos din sa gilmore ko binili dati. Hanggang ngayon ayos parin sya, kahit di ko nagamit ng ilang years dahil nakapag upgrade na din ako sa 80+ bronze. True rated psu is real po, kung icocompare mo sya sa generic psu's like yung mga kasama sa generic case.
True rated yung term na tawag dun sa mga heavy duty psu but not necessarily 80+ certified. Way back 2000, wala pa kasing 80+ so yan yung term na nakasanayan para ma distinguish yung generic saka mga high quality psu.
True-rated means, kayang i-deliver ng mismong PSU yung kanyang advertised wattage before may pumutok na parts sa loob or before overload protection kicks in. Not all branded PSU's are true-rated PSU. Also, some manufacturers advertise their PSU's based on peak power only, not the continuous power. (ex. a 450-watt PSU can reach its maximum rating at 450 watts before OPP/OLP kicks in but continuous rated power is only about 400 watts.) You might also consider the noise and ripple of the 3V, 5V and 12V rails. Pag mataas ang noise and ripple, hindi tatagal ang buhay ng mga components ng pc.
Bili ka ng 650 watts PSU para wala ka ng problemahin in case sa future mag upgrade ka ng malakas na CPU at GPU. Isang bilihin na lang. Never buy a cheap bronze PSU. Gold 80plus ang recommended. Mas mabuti na yung medyo mahal sa umpisa pero tatagal naman keysa bili ka ng mura tapos two years down the road bibili ka na naman.
hahaha..thank you for this info..my friend tech may bibenta sya sakin PSU 1k, pinagmamalaki p nya sakin kc nk jockpot daw ako kc true rated daw ung mkukuha kung PSU ^^ hahaha
dapat mag voltage check ka para sure. para masabi din na legit lahat ng info. yung sinasabing true rated at generic. tapos yung mga 80 plus na yan. check mo mga vlts nila kung hindi true yung mga vlts na bibibigay ng bawat psu na yan.
sabi kasi nang friend q "kahit anung mangyari true rated lang ang hanapin ko" without explaining what true rated means and if meron bang bearing to... ty sir lodi for explaining about how psu are rated and what to consider, at wag mag papabiktima sa "true rated" keme haha, more power sir lodi, dalaw aq sa shop mu minsan :)
madaming aspeto ang electronics na hindi alam nang mga ibang tech dito sa pinas, kaya mahal ang mga branded na psu kasi mas refined ang output non try mo i lagay sa oscilloscope para malaman mo
Ang pagka-alam ko ang term na "True Rated" galing yan sa common terms ng mga technician dati noong hindi pa common branded PSU sa local market. Masasabing "True Rated" ang isang generic PSU dati if i-check mo yung side rails information. +3.3V rails = PCI slot +5V = USB ports, Mouse/Keyboard PS2 +12V = CPU, GPU, HDD/SSD and RAM(not sure). -12v = not sure. +5Vsb = standby lights. For Ex. FSP HVPRO550W DC Output +3.3V | +5V | +12V | -12V | +5Vsb Max Output Current 20A | 20A | 45.8A | 0.3A | 2.5A Max Combined Power 100W | 550W | 3.6W | 12.5W Total Power 550W To get Watts, formula ay W = Ampere X Volts. So yung +12V rail which is powering all major components matches the Wattage the PSU is rated kaya "True Rated". Napag-pasahan na lng yung term forgetting the meaning behind it.
Also wag nyo bina-bash mga Generic PSU, hindi sumasabog yan basta basta if you read and understand yung labels. Nagkulang lang ang Generic PSU sa protection kaya nga may ka-tandem na AVR at surge protector eh. Mga ninunong ComShop dati usually naka-generic PSU nga lng eh pero tumagal ng 4-5 years. Pero kung may Mid to High range GPU w/6-8-12 pins, bili na kayo branded 80+ PSU.
looking for this comment too. kala ko ako lang nakapansin. Quite misleading, sana mabasa to ng ibang manonood or better yet sana icut nalang entirely to kasi baka maligaw yung iba. PCIE slot power will never be enough to power a card that requires external power.
"Wasap internet!" Earworms nako nito sir. Eto talaga inaabangan ko sa intro ng channel mo :) Thank you for always giving us quality contents! More videos!
Since 2017 Gold is the new Bronze. Lalo na sa bansa natin napakadumi ng kuryente natin, my go to brand is Seasonic, special their focus series, highly recommended ni jonnyguru at kitguru, cheaper than most brands like corsair but beats their performance by a mile with excellent build quality, wish ko lang madagdagan ang nagbebenta ng brand na to.
Thank you, Scott Pilgrim!
HAHAHAH
Hwuahauahaha
Bwahahaha
will save the world in between yt videos
HAHAHAHA
ang galing. parang yung malupit magturo na teacher. madaling maintindihan sir. salamat.
FINALLY. SOMEONE SAID THIS. SALAMAT SIR SA QUALITY CONTENT.
Bossing sobrang ganda ng content mo. Pang-international ang quality. Subscribed!
Just for additional info, isang naging reason kung bakit naging mabenta yung true rated na term dito sa Pinas is because of the abundance of what you call "Generic" powersupplies. Yung mga Generic powersupplies na sinasabi na rating nila is 600watts but in reality ang rating talaga nila is more or less 250 watts. Sa Term na to nila nadidifferentiate yung fake rated sa true rated na powersupplies.
Galing! Marketing to physics explanation 🔥
Wassup internet! Another quality content, marami nanamang pinoy ang namulat sa fake news! Thanks po dito sir, as always d ako naboring sa buong vid, keep it up sir 🇵🇭🙏👋😁😇
thanks bro
anong quality content? anong namulat sa fake news? hahaha ilan sa mga sinasiba nya is mali, hahaha, quality pa ba yun? hahaha, kung tutuusin sya pa nga ng.sspread ng fake news eh.
@@KHIANO anong mali sa sinabi nya?
@@hwsph 🤣
@@KHIANO iyak nlg wlang pambuild ahaha
mas madaling sundan yung ganito, yung utay utay ang video tutorial kaysa sa minsanan kasi nga information overload ang mangyayari, nice one thanks for your uploads malaking tulong talaga
Parang naka hanap nako ng Pinoy version ni Linus Tech Tips ayos tol galing mo mag exp sana ma kapag pa selfie ako sayo one day
linus tech tips bagal matapos ng build pag makita ang product nila sinasabi ang website
ltt for entertainment, gamers nexus for serious business
Linus rk 1000$ "low end budget build" 🤣 out of reality
Para kong nanonood ng netflix series dito.. looking forward sa next episode 😅.. thanks sir sa lahat ng shini-share mong info... Balak ko din mag build pag natanggap ang bonus .. napakagaan ng explanation, hindi info overload.. narerefresh yung kaalaman ko, last kong nakahawak ng bini-build 2010 pa.. napag iwanan na..
I am just satisfied with my 500w 80+ "white" when I saw this video. Thank you sir!
One forbidden rule:
Wag na wag titipirin ang power supply :)
Thank you :D
forbidden? baka golden?
Exactly my thoughts on "True Rated" power supplies!
80+ all the way!
Out of all PH pc tech review/insight channels, you are the best. At least for me. You got that right mix of sarcasm and seriousness altogether.
thanks bro, appreciate it
For those who wants to build their own PC, I recommend you to watch this video. Ito ang pinaka-basic na dapat malaman ng isang nagsisimulang mag build.
Bottom line: You should not make TIPID on choosing a Power Supply Unit for your mamahaling peripherals.
Okay po, noted no tipid 🤧👌🏻
Dami kc bandwagoner na pinoy nakapanuod lng ng video s youtube about s kompyuter dumami ang alam! 1st time bumuo ng pc dhil pandemic nakiuso nanuod s youtube dumami ang alam! Salamat dami n nmn naliwanagan s sinabi mo lodz!
2:20 sir yung wattage na 65watts ng Ryzen R7 3700x na tinutukoy nyo po is TDP which is heat load. ang power consumption ng processor na yan at idle is 70watts idle, 150watts load. hindi po buong system unit, just the processor itself. tdp is totally different sa powerconsumption ng processor
TIL! Thanks sir!
yes tama ka sir tdp is not power consumption. magkaiba po sila!
exactly
pano po malalaman ang power consumption ng processor?
@@blackship2380 hindi po advertised ng manufacturer like ni intel at AMD. but you can find out kung ano power consumption nya thru reviews (aritcles and youtube reviews) try to check back2gaming, tomshardware, anandtech, guru3d, techpowerup
Para syang professor sa university sa galing mag explain.. grabe sya!!
You can use power supply calculator to gauge yung power requirement ng system mo. It's not as accurate 100% but it will give you an idea how much PSU capacity you would need. Been using it for years on all my builds (personal and clients). Take note din yung future upgrades/additions na balak mo. Pero kung on a limited budget this tool may help get the right PSU capacity for your current system build.
May nahanap na rin ako about sa tech review. Kung di mo alam, masasagot dito. Good Job Sir
Cant believe someone would dislike this video. As always, very informative and helpful. More (psu) power to HWS! True Rated!!
lol I like what you did there with true rated at the end 😆
e2 ung pag kakaintindi ko.. ex. 500watts
generic = kayang ireach ung 500watts pero saglit lng.. d sya continuous..
true-rated = kayang ireach ung 500watts and kaya nya continuous 500watts..
80+ certified = kayang ireach ung 500watts + kaya nya continuous 500watts + mas efficient / tipid kuryente
tips : just go for atleast bronze certified with popular brand like ..
seasonic
corsair
bequiet
evga
coolermaster
Damn. I though this true rated term is an actual technical term. Very informative as always.
Subs na kase puro honest unbiased infos nakukuha ko dito
I always thought that 80 plus psus are the “true rated” ones xD. Thank you for this very useful info lmao.
very understandable video.. professionalism activate. thx po sir sa vids na to.. ngaun naliwanagan ako sa true rated at 80+ more power po.
One advice I would give to beginners: Use an online PSU calculator.
They're free to use, and saves you a lot of confusion in the long run.
Salamat dito bago ako bumili ng PSU.
"True rated" is like RGB in peripherals and other components. Keep up the content man!
😆
not skipping ads ay paraan lang para pag support ko sa channel neto
and subscribe please :)
subscriber napo weeks ago and hit the notif bell
Use your hand gestures more sir, mas maganda panoorin. Parang mas may human interaction, parang robot kasi pag wala. Very informative content though, thanks.
haha may nagsasabi naman that I use my hands too much :p I will try to be less robotic 🤖 although napansin nung editing staff ko na mas animated ako towards the end of the videos, I need to warm up first
@@hwsph oo nga sir mas mainam ma getsures ka for me :) its more natural po kasi hehe
I think you would make the perfect candidate to dispel our local PC myths that we need an AVR.
video in the works
pag napapanood kita sir A naaalala ko sayo si Sheldon Cooper (Jim Parsons)
haha may nagsasabi nga nun... is it the deadpan expression? :p
BAZINGA!!!
Simply the best in explaining things in the PC world! There's no time wasted.
Me was like, if it's generic- basically di sya truerated 🤣 buti nlng npanood ko to. Mukha pala akong sira.
First time ko narinig yang 'true rated' around 2014-2015, sobrang nagkalat mga used pc parts at kahit sa bangketa merong nagtitinda. Mababasa mo sa sticker label ng mga used psu rated/peak power, marketing na lang talaga by adding positive adjective sa description at yun na nga naimbento ang 'true rated'.
Bumili ako PSU 600watts rgb fan niya 1900 nabili ko worth it naman
More RGB more power !
By any chance, was this a thermaltake psu?
Baka inplay Gs series psu
Inplay or Bosston psu
nakakita rin ako ng psu na 2nd hand for mining colorful crossfeed na 1250W 80 Plat. sa presyong 1900.
Very informative and easy to understand even for PC building newbies like me.
pwede ka po ba gumawa ng parang ganito about sa mga avr, ups, or surge protectors pati ung required na voltage or wattages sa mga ganto. Dito ako nalilito eh
in the works :)
@@hwsph Yan din po sinend ko tong tanong sa inyo sir. Been waiting for the vid.
I will look forward for this videos next
@@hwsph tanong ko lang sir 700w 80+ bronze psu ko kaso ang laki tapos r3 3200g lang naka lagay walang gpu so ang laki ng kinukuha niyang kuryente tapos na sasayang lang dahil mahina nagagamit or mahina lang kukunin niya kasi mahina lang din kinukunsumo ng aking pc?
@@paulo12121967 nope, kung ilan lang kailangan ng r3 3200g mo is ayung lang nakukuhang power sa saksakan, 700W means ayun max power na kayang kuhain ng psu mo, not always 700W kinukuha thru saksakan.
Trust Computer Retailers like this they go seminars before they sell what they are selling, Keep it Up and God Bless Us All :D
cheap psu = The Bomb Has Been Planted!!!
😆
well played
@@hwsph corsair SF 600 600WATTS at Ryzen 3 3300X pwd kaya?
Edit: 80+ Gold PSU at GTX 1660 super GPU
gamit ko korean true rated PSU, 2 years na ngayun, 8 hours per day dota2 laru palagi minsan nga mahalos 24hrs laro... walang off2x... 2 pc same PSU.... rx580 ang gpu q both PC, tag 650php lang 650watts sa shopee... ok pa naman... walang sira...
@@PunxTV123 still ang risk nyan mas malaki.
the best... underrated youtube channel.
Hindi naman kailangan ng sobrang daming wattage
Overkill ata yun Seasonic Focus 850w Platinum ko sa 1050ti ko
Kahit ata RTX 3080 kaya pa ng supply mo.
Oo overkill, hindi gagana ung certification ng platinum mo sa mas mababang wattage.
Face palm .. Khit 500 or 450watts ok na sa 1050 ti
Well-said hardware sugar! on the True-rated topic issue. :-D you rock! \m/
Kya po my inefficiency is dahil ang PSU is AC to DC conveter. AC power po ang source na kuryente while DC power po ang required ng mga PC components. My conversion so my inefficiency. It can be improved by using higher quality psu components like capacitors, voltage regulators, filters etc... Kya my mga bronze, silver, gold, platinum at titanium depende sa mga pyesa na ginamit to build the PSU. More efficiency means mas tipid sa kuryente at stable ang supplied voltages sa PC mo for long lifespan ng mga parts. Anyway, im using seasonic prime ultra 650W 80+ Titanium
Salamat sa info... Yung 48 na nag-dislike.,mga naka bili na sa shopee/lazada ng true rated na hindi 80+
😆
very informative,,watch muna here bago bumili ng pc parts
Nanggaling yung marketing term na "true rated" after generic power supplies *exploded* in popularity in the Philippines. Since they are advertised as 700w kahit na 200w lang ang actual maximum output, naisip na gamitin yung "true rated" term for power supplies to signify na yung PSU rated as 700w, 700w nga.
Very useful and informative especially sa “true rated” part na marketing lang pala hahaha
i wonder bakit may mga thumbs down sa video na to. thanks sa advices
matagal ko nang iniintay na may mag explain ng psu topic sa pinas
ive seen alot of local youtuber build their pc that doesnt know about psu
they're explaining the psu thing wrong like the rating of 80plus and the wattage
when im building a pc for my friends i dont like to use korean psu kahit yon yung gusto nila
most filipino sellers that build cheap pc needs to watch this hahaha
and i remember the gloco build his tech guy explains the psu topic wrong
thax for the vid imma share it to my friends and whoever ask me to build them a pc
andd i always use the websites that calculate psu wattage acording to their needs
How I wish na this channel existed way back in 2018 when I built my pc. Ang dami kong natututunan na bago kahit akala ko alam ko na everything there is to know about basic pc parts
You really earn my subs! Husay! This is my 3rd video watching you explain and akala ko sapat na yung nalalaman ko about PC, madami pa pala dapat matutunan! Thumbs up sayo!
You are worth to follow . Thank you
kaya bago ko kinalikot CPU ko nanood muna ako dito sa vlog nya e haha :) dami ko natutunan
Pinanood ko ibang mga vids mo sir at lahat very informative, explained talaga ng maayos na madaling ma intindihan. Isa rin akong PC BUILDER dito sa amin pero bumibili lang ako ng mga parts sa iba-ibang shop local/online. Hoping to have my own Computer store soon.
nc real talk ka tlga mag salita and kahit tech ako mejo na igno ako sa mga true rated kac ngaun lang ako nag update interms of computer kasi nag focus ako sa work ko
Been using some random used 700w "True rated PSU" na around 900 pesos lang, works like a charm though it's a bit more noisy compared sa brand new 600w PSU ng pinsan ko. Currently using B450M, Ryzen 5 2600, and RX 480.
Pero risky na boss since if ever may masamang mangyari sa psu mo, possible na madadamay at masisira yung ibang components. If stock clock lang, medjo okay pa
Tama ka na walang standard ang nag-sasabi kung ano talaga ang ibig sabihin ng "true rated PSU."
Pero this is an informal term used to mean that a PSU can actually give out the box-indicated wattage.
Ibig sabihin, kapag sinabi sa box na 500W yun, kaya ng PSU to give out 500W to your PC's components.
Yun lang naman yun & old time PC builders know this. :-)
up for next content about choosing the right monitor for the build boss!!
this wasn't in the original plans for this series pero ang daming nag request so sige sama ko na :D will probably be a couple of weeks though before I get to it
Very informative! Kudos more power. Sana next peripherals especially monitor hehe
we are working on a "bibili ka" ng monitor video, might take a little while though, have a lot of video backlog
I used the Cougar 80plus bronze, And it lasted for 10 years. it is not bad after all. thinking to buy a new power supply
5:23 tama naman lalo na sa mga local mga tindahan o online. pero nag exist yan dati pa sa dahil nagkaproblema yung ibang manufacturers vs sa iba dahil naglalagay sila ng PSU rating na puwede lang sustain ng ilang seconds. Usually, mga 10-15% mas mataas wattage kaya naimbento yang "True Rated" ng mga mas sikat/reputable brands ng PSU. Tinigil na lang yata nila yan kasi yung mga cheap o hindi kilalang PSUs ang patuloy gumagamit ng fake wattage rating.
hindi relatable ang "true rated" sa "80 Plus certification". 80 plus ay para sa efficiency ng PSU, ang "true rated" para sa maximum wattage ng PSU
9:49 hindi naman all the time. sabi nga diyan sa Wiki 20%, 50%,100% load ang tinitingnan para sa certification
Though i don't like the marketing term na "true rated" may actual meaning talaga ito in terms of main DC power rails sa mga power supply.
For example, ang advertised na rating ng PSU is 450w, but ang 12vdc rails niya ay nasa 30Amls lang pala which is 360w lang sa actual, the rest ng wattage ay mag-sum up to 450 kapag itotal mo na ying 5vdc at 3.3 vdc rails.
Ang ganyang psu ay hindi true-rated.
Magiging true rated lang kapag nasa 37.5Amps yung 12vdc rails which will total to 450w.
Thank you Sir! Very informative no Mary Go Around talkings.
Thank you! Dahil sa mga Video mo nalalaman namin ang Tama at Mali. Ang dami kasing guru kuno jan na puro pag-mamarunong lang. create more vid please. =)
Sarap maging trainee dito :) Good job sir!
Napakagaling tlga nito ni sir mag explain. clear na clear kaya sir upload pa more. hehe
I learned a lot po. Thank you po for this video. Based on my experience po, I had my pc repaired in Gilmore kasi nag power cycle yung PC ko, and upon checking ang sabi sakin is ang problem ng PC is yung power supply so pinapalitan nya ko ng "True Rated" na power supply sabi nya mas maganda talaga daw talaga yun. Not sure pero pag nag add ako ng bagong components such as HDD or RAM nag power cycle uli yung PC ko. :(( hopefully sa psu lang ang problem ko hindi sa motherboard :((
Napapatambay nako dito lagi hahaha
to add, ATX PSU length is not standard. yung width and height lang standard. for example, mas mahaba yung mga modular power supplies. so need talaga idouble check if kasya sa case
Pinoy kasi mga kuripot karamihan kaya dyan nabuo ang Word True Rated and Generic PSU.
Pag True Rated kaya meaning may kaya ka.
Pag Generic Meaning nagtitipid ka well less weight at less materials ginamit.
Kahit nga sa mga keyboard basta may makita silang Madaming Pailaw Mechanical na but they dont know the difference in Mechanical vs Membrane.
More Words will be created in the future pag di parin natutong tumingin ang pinoy sa Budget vs Performance.
on-point! unlike ibang content creator ang daming paligoy ligoy at kelangan naka 1.5x ang speed mo para matapos ang video hahaha
pera na lang talaga kulang hehehe . thank you sir
Sana ito naging teacher namin noon mas madami pa ko natutunan sa channel niya kesa sa university eh hahhahah sama mo na mga classmate mong walang interest pasok baon
Para sigurado bili na lang ako ng Seasonic. Kahit FSP PSU ko pumotok. Tumagal naman ng 5 years pero talagang unexpected.
usually when PSUs break it is unexpected, ie. no prior warning signs
Gumamit ako ng true rated psu before, dahil di kaya ng generic psu ko ang gtx 660ti na bagong bili ko dati. Nagamit ko naman sya ng almost 2 years at ayos parin sya ngayon, Acbel brand sya 600 watts 600 pesos din sa gilmore ko binili dati. Hanggang ngayon ayos parin sya, kahit di ko nagamit ng ilang years dahil nakapag upgrade na din ako sa 80+ bronze. True rated psu is real po, kung icocompare mo sya sa generic psu's like yung mga kasama sa generic case.
Thankk you sa mga knowledge master. Para sa mga tulad ko na hindi pro sa pag bubuild.
thank you sir ! isang kaalaman na naman po ang naibigay ninyo sa mga wlang alam sa PC build.. more power !
550w 80+gold running for 5 years na :D
started from i3 + gtx960
now 2700x + 5700xt
True rated yung term na tawag dun sa mga heavy duty psu but not necessarily 80+ certified. Way back 2000, wala pa kasing 80+ so yan yung term na nakasanayan para ma distinguish yung generic saka mga high quality psu.
finally! someone pointed this out! thank you!
More of this this informative video Sir very helpful for us thanks po
This channel needs more traction
True-rated means, kayang i-deliver ng mismong PSU yung kanyang advertised wattage before may pumutok na parts sa loob or before overload protection kicks in. Not all branded PSU's are true-rated PSU. Also, some manufacturers advertise their PSU's based on peak power only, not the continuous power. (ex. a 450-watt PSU can reach its maximum rating at 450 watts before OPP/OLP kicks in but continuous rated power is only about 400 watts.) You might also consider the noise and ripple of the 3V, 5V and 12V rails. Pag mataas ang noise and ripple, hindi tatagal ang buhay ng mga components ng pc.
Lumayas ka dito tang nga
@@muscleguyphilippines saksak mo sa pw*t mo yang opinyon mo hindi ko yan hinihingi
May natutunan na naman ako this year 🙏. Great video. Thanks po.
Bili ka ng 650 watts PSU para wala ka ng problemahin in case sa future mag upgrade ka ng malakas na CPU at GPU. Isang bilihin na lang. Never buy a cheap bronze PSU. Gold 80plus ang recommended. Mas mabuti na yung medyo mahal sa umpisa pero tatagal naman keysa bili ka ng mura tapos two years down the road bibili ka na naman.
hahaha..thank you for this info..my friend tech may bibenta sya sakin PSU 1k, pinagmamalaki p nya sakin kc nk jockpot daw ako kc true rated daw ung mkukuha kung PSU ^^ hahaha
dapat mag voltage check ka para sure. para masabi din na legit lahat ng info. yung sinasabing true rated at generic. tapos yung mga 80 plus na yan. check mo mga vlts nila kung hindi true yung mga vlts na bibibigay ng bawat psu na yan.
sabi kasi nang friend q "kahit anung mangyari true rated lang ang hanapin ko" without explaining what true rated means and if meron bang bearing to... ty sir lodi for explaining about how psu are rated and what to consider, at wag mag papabiktima sa "true rated" keme haha, more power sir lodi, dalaw aq sa shop mu minsan :)
Very informative! Heaps of thanks bro.
madaming aspeto ang electronics na hindi alam nang mga ibang tech dito sa pinas, kaya mahal ang mga branded na psu kasi mas refined ang output non try mo i lagay sa oscilloscope para malaman mo
Thanks sir Sef Cadeyona!
Learned something new, thanks!
Ang pagka-alam ko ang term na "True Rated" galing yan sa common terms ng mga technician dati noong hindi pa common branded PSU sa local market.
Masasabing "True Rated" ang isang generic PSU dati if i-check mo yung side rails information.
+3.3V rails = PCI slot
+5V = USB ports, Mouse/Keyboard PS2
+12V = CPU, GPU, HDD/SSD and RAM(not sure).
-12v = not sure.
+5Vsb = standby lights.
For Ex. FSP HVPRO550W
DC Output +3.3V | +5V | +12V | -12V | +5Vsb
Max Output Current 20A | 20A | 45.8A | 0.3A | 2.5A
Max Combined Power 100W | 550W | 3.6W | 12.5W
Total Power 550W
To get Watts, formula ay W = Ampere X Volts. So yung +12V rail which is powering all major components matches the Wattage the PSU is rated kaya "True Rated".
Napag-pasahan na lng yung term forgetting the meaning behind it.
Also wag nyo bina-bash mga Generic PSU, hindi sumasabog yan basta basta if you read and understand yung labels. Nagkulang lang ang Generic PSU sa protection kaya nga may ka-tandem na AVR at surge protector eh. Mga ninunong ComShop dati usually naka-generic PSU nga lng eh pero tumagal ng 4-5 years.
Pero kung may Mid to High range GPU w/6-8-12 pins, bili na kayo branded 80+ PSU.
Qual Content
looking for this comment too. kala ko ako lang nakapansin. Quite misleading, sana mabasa to ng ibang manonood or better yet sana icut nalang entirely to kasi baka maligaw yung iba. PCIE slot power will never be enough to power a card that requires external power.
"Wasap internet!"
Earworms nako nito sir. Eto talaga inaabangan ko sa intro ng channel mo :) Thank you for always giving us quality contents! More videos!
I gave your video a Like that's True Rated.
thanks for the like, and the sub! 💯
Since 2017 Gold is the new Bronze. Lalo na sa bansa natin napakadumi ng kuryente natin, my go to brand is Seasonic, special their focus series, highly recommended ni jonnyguru at kitguru, cheaper than most brands like corsair but beats their performance by a mile with excellent build quality, wish ko lang madagdagan ang nagbebenta ng brand na to.
Legit yung sa true rated. Tinawanan ako sa reddit kase first time daw nila marinig yung true rated na psu na sinasabe ko haha.