I bought this for the exact reasons you did. I have the same or similar saw. One change i made was to reverse the sides so the miter gauge is on the left. If you change blades, say std to thin kerf (and heaven forbid a dado set), your calibration is now off. The left side of the blade is always fixed against the motor. You can always use replacement panels for angled cuts, etc.
I built two crosscut sleds. An ordinary crosscut sled, and a smaller sled with replaceable plexiglass inserts that I use with my dado stack. I have insert sets for a variety of dado widths. Works great. (for angle and bevel cuts I just use my miter gauge alone). I don't see how the miter express can solve both angle and bevel cuts without undo hassle. I have an original Sawstop jobsite saw and yes, sled tipping in front of the blade can be an issue. I'm considering the Izzy Swan front extension, seems like a good idea.
Thanks for this tip. After a lifetime of cutting with the miter gauge on the left, putting it on the right would seem strange and some might say it adds a bit of a hazard….well, that’s what I’m saying. Like going to a country where they drive on the other side of the street from where you live…all the automatic and “natural” responses are backwards. Cheers!
Years ago, I got into some wood working and bought Incra TS/LS Joinery System. It's never realized wood could be worked with such accuracy. I didn't understand value of repeatability until I had to repair a few projects. Then everything was stolen. It's taken me years to slowly build up what I had, and during the time without Incra, I discovered how much EASIER it is to get saw cuts and miters correct with Incra. The price is MUCH less a factor now. I compare the benefits/value of using Incra equipment to using SHARP chisels, planes and scrapers.
Great Video. I've watched a few on the Miter Express, but no one has explained the Calibration as clearly and simply as you have done. I now have a greater understanding of how it all works. Thanks you're a champion.
As usual a great video and perfectly explained. You'd make a great teacher. I've had the Miter express for a few years now and the best advice I got from my salesman was to square the fence to the cut line not the blade just in case the blade isn't 100% parallel to the slots and many aren't. That cut line is exactly parallel to the slot as that's the way it was cut, so it makes sense that the fence should be 90 deg. to that line/edge. Use a framing square against that edge. Worth checking but if all your cuts are square then it doesn't matter. I bought this for all the same reasons. I once made a sled with the works, dust collection, hold downs, T Tracks, guards etc but it was so heavy it was unusable. This ticks all the boxes other than expense.
Hi John, Thank you for the feedback. I am thinking about your advice, if the blade made the cut, aren’t the two things the same. Although you would get a larger ref surface from the cut line - and those pesky teeth wouldn’t in the way. So that makes sense. But I still think the blade and the cut would be parallel to each other. This could be the woodworkers version of the chicken and the egg… Cheers Andy
@@TheWoodgrafter No they're not the same, Andy. If your blade is a long way off parallel to the slots and you try to square the fence off the blade then your fence will be perpendicular to the blade but NOT the slots and isn't your sled moving via those slots? This video explains this perfectly ruclips.net/video/NrTeFQ0iQ5k/видео.html
Hi John, I don’t disagree about the slot and the blade, but once the blade has cut the sled board. The edge of your cut board surely must be parallel to the blade. So at that point so long as the slot holds the sled at the same path of cut. I.E. the. Sled doesn’t wobble in the slot. Then the sled edge is held parallel to the blade. Thank you for the video link, I will watch it later sounds like I am missing something. Andy
So watched the video, get it now. And thank you for the education. So the slot is a constant. The blade is angled to the slot The blade cuts a wider kerf then the thickness of the blade, (The actual kerf plus the offset of the blade) The line the blade cuts is square to the track - even if the blade isn’t So on a sled line up to the cut, not the blade. With no sled, line up to the slot edge. That was great video, and when it clicks it clicks. Thank you again for the education - now I can go back to the shop and fine tune the sled. :-) Andy
Great review. I bought the Incra miter 5000 on sale two weeks ago for $299 including the Incra 3000 miter gauge, clamp, stop block, and fence. I was worried it would be too big for my DEWALT job site saw but it works great. I just need to attach a 3/4” strip of wood on the DEWALT fence support bars to give additional support to the Incra sled. Glad I found your channel.
Absolutely superb video and the best I've seen on this piece of equipment. It solved the problem that I couldn't workout how to get the drop panel aligned with the bar screw holes, I didn't realise it needed a second cut. Thank you!
This video is fantastic. Prior to seeing it I purchased the product and was a bit at sea regarding the setup. Your clear and specific instruction stepped me through the process beautifully. Much appreciated!!
I am late to the party it seems, but wanted to thank you for this video. It was very informative and I appreciated the care and detail you included as you worked through the assembly and fitting to your saw (very similar model to the one I am working with). I think this bit of kit is exactly what I have been looking for. I was about to invest significant time and money building two different sleds, but this will save on both and yield better results. Again, I thank you for taking the time to make this. Cheers!
A very comprehensive and detailed review of a beautifully crafted product, might not be cheap but Incra products are top quality. Thanks for another great review.
Thanks for a great video! I have the same saw and this video will help me decide if I need the complete Incra setup. It will save me a lot of time once I get into it simply by referring back to your steps, so thanks again.
Hi Philip, It all depends what you are making, how often and to what quality. The saw (once tuned) is pretty good. This takes it to the next level. Cheers Andy
Like you, I already have the mitre gauge, (Incra Miter 1000HD) which also includes the Stop and Fence. I’ve just purchased the Miter Express, (it arrived yesterday) and this is by far the most easy to follow, Step-by-step, and very detailed video, which also shows its capabilities too, that I have come across. Fantastic job, thank you very much. I feel much more confident sorting my own out now. You have gained a new subscriber LOL :-)
VERY well done video - thanks! Are you still using this? I ordered one for use with the Sawstop CTS and am absolutely on the fence of whether to keep it or send it back. Thanks!
I loved to spend Sunday afternoon watching ( in-between the Olympics). Excellent job. Thank you. I have a BOW extension fence added to my dewalt tablesaw with WT1 feed supports which gives additional feed support ( in feed and out feed) . It also has hold down support on out going wood to prevent kick back. In addition, I had not been able to adjust the supplied dewalt fence to be square to the table but was able to shim the BOW FENCE (which attaches to and improves the dewalt fence dramatically) to finally , finally correct the left upper fence tilt toward blade problem . This addition really improved my sawing, Do you ever wish you had one of the higher numbered Incra miter gauge’s like 1000SE OR 1000HD ? What did you add for out feed support or in feed support to your table ? 27:58 I have limited space , Did you make a any additional adaptions to your jig ? I may need to sand my saw miter slots as you did ., .thanks so much Jack trotter in state of Idaho, USA . Lol, I have metric and imperial hex tools out of necessity. Thanks a third time !!!
Been looking for this good of a description of this tool vs a small table saw and you just answered everything in detail. Incra should be asking you for permission to use this video for sells purposes.
Looks like a great piece of kit, well worth the money. I recently built a table saw sled to solve the problems you mentioned. Although I added a clamp and t-tracks, and it works quite well, the benefit of making the angled cuts and having the precise distances make me wonder if I shouldn't have gone for the Incra set instead. The only minor downsides I can see compared to a sled is possibly a little bit of tearout and the blade being a little more exposed.
Hi Michael, The Incra will be one of those Investment that will still be adding value to my production, long after the pain of purchase has passed. Having used it, I won’t be going back to a shop built sled Cheers Andy
Great video Andy, having the Incra bits an pieces make it a great cost effective solution to your issues. I made myself a quick fit infeed support bracket based on Izzi Swans design that gives me the support for my cross cut sled and Kreg Mitre gauge.. I will make sure I post a pic to your website. Nice one Matey.
Good to see that Incra fixed the terrible miter bar with the little plastic roller wheels. They work on a big saw but with a little table top like a contractors saw, they little plastic roller wheels come forward out of the slot and it is completely out of whack until all the plastic wheels are back in the slot.
I have the same setup! Excellent review and tips for assembly. Although this setup is new to me, I’m not crazy about the necessity of the right side set up. Mainly because it requires me to remove the fence on longer pieces. That said, it is a very nice system and I’m sure to grow accustomed to this minor quirk.
Andy, you are a busy bee indeed! Great video. I got rid of my large table saw and went with the festool system alone. I wanted to get the festool table saw module, but it is not available here in the US. I wish it was, but I guess we cannot rely on "zee Germans." I'm considering a small jobsite saw just for rip cuts for thin material. I build shop cabinets similar to Paoson Woodworks (brilliant technique you should check out) and I need thin strips that are incredibly accurate. I'm considering the dewalt among other options. Just have to make the decision.
Hi, I have moved away from the Festool module, the lack of miter slots restricted the ability to make sleds etc. Also changing between the router, router module, track saw and table saw became tedious to the point where I found work around to not use them. This impacted the quality of the work. I find it much better to have dedicated stations so the right tool becomes part of the workflow. The Incra sled has made the DeWalt a different machine. Cheers Andy
Hi Joe, Sometimes you have to shut your eyes and jump, I am saying up a laser cutter for the CAM side of the business. That will be one of those moments. Good luck with the lottery. Andy
I guess I would have fixed the panel in the screw holes that are closer to you on the miter runner so you can cut wider boards and more of that runner stays in the slot when you pull it all the way back when you start your cut.
It doesn’t seem like the miter bar under the drop panel is needed to be bang-on tight in the miter slot…since the miter bar is anchored to the other panel and the drop panel is just supporting the workpiece…(is that over-explaining? I think so…). BTW, I already had the “Build-It” system and just needed the center aluminum piece which I ordered from Incra separately…we’ll see how that works. I already had the Miter 1000HD, so in for a penny…
Thank you, I can’t remember to be honest what I used in this video. My set squares are Starrett My squares are Incra precision squares My setup/framing triangles are Benchdogs.co.uk Hope that’s helps Andy
Hi Jonathon, Thank you for the feedback. On my system no, the simple reason is size. It is much larger than the one I used here so probably to big for my shop and saw. It is a similar concept though, so would work in much the same way with the same results. Andy
Hi Andy, Are you supposed to remove the fixed down table every time you tilt your blade over, because if you don't you will have cut into your zero clearance cut ?
Hi Allan, My plan is to remove the left hand panel if I tilt the blade. I would probably make a simple fixed MDF drop pane for the angles cut. I don’t really want to cut into the sled as is but I guess you have a choice, depending on what you need it for. Good spot Andy
OK Of course I want one right... But for the most part isn't this what a compound miter is really used for? On My Table saw I do a lot of ripping, i make dados, and every few year make coped trim. I never use it for cutting angles for the most part.
Hi, To be honest I tend to mix and match depending on the project. For example, I may have an angle dialled into the table saw, so I would use the Kapex for a different angle. If I only have one cut to make, and I have the capacity then I would grab the Kapex. I tend to have multiple ways of achieving an outcome - and every tool in the workflow is calibrated and delivers the best result it can deliver. So no set method or rule, Sorry that doesn’t help much does it :-( Andy
Hi Sam, I can’t believe how much Incra has creapt into the shop, the fence, the marking gear, the squares and now the sled. It really tightens up the precession and the quality. Cheers Andy
@@TheWoodgrafter yeah I sold my mitre express before I got to use it same as the ls-ts as didn't have a big enough saw for it but am putting more incra track and teeth around the workshop as the end stops are good. Definately agree the tools make it more of a pleasure to work and give comfort in reliability
Yes I know what you mean, space is getting tight. Hence a small site saw ‘tuned’ to give me accuracy and the router now built into the bench. The more I buy, the more ingenious I become with shop design :-) Cheers Andy
@@TheWoodgrafter yeah I have the Axminster ac216ts and added another wing to the right, its the smallest cast iron top induction motor 'real' saw I could find it's nice and have the sliding table extension as well. I had tool stands and usually make small cabinets instead although I put my Laguna Sander on my systainer cabinet but it's not as stable lol
I cannot, for the life of me, get the sled to fit the DeWalt saw. No matter how much I tighten it. It still moves side to side. So, tried small pieces of the tape - didn't work at all. Any ideas?
Nice review. Thanks. I would’ve liked to have seen the largest cross cut you can do, has that’s the only reason I’d be interested in buying the sled. For narrow cross cuts I’d probably use the mitre gauge in the t slots. Also, do you know if the gauge could be used ahead (in reverse if you like) of the work piece, like on some larger panel saws?
Hi thank you, the cross cutting capacity will change depending on your table saw. The larger the lead in between the edge of the table saw and the blade the larger the capacity. On my saw it is very small, so the intent is to make an indeed table to increase capacity. I guess you could use this ahead, bug then the cutting forces would be pulling the stock away from the fence so at beat may introduce inaccuracies at worst twist and kick back, not sure I would try it. Cheers Andy
@@TheWoodgrafter I guess on larger saws where you push the fence with the material, the dedicated sliding table and heavier stock come into play. Thanks for your reply.
Great video. I have watched your video several times trying to decide on a purchase. My saw is the DWE7491, similar in size to your saw, and was concerned with the lack of support for the sled from the limited table top. Your idea of using the fence seems to work for the extra support. During the test cut portion, it appeared without using the fence the sled seemed to tip towards the end of the cuts. That was my biggest concern. I contacted INCRA (Mark) and he suggested not attaching the middle piece of sled (first panel to the right of the miter gauge). If I purchase, I will strongly look at setting up left of the blade without using that middle panel. Stability is going to be an issue for me going forward. Any thoughts or feedback? Thanks
I have recently changed my table saw, but my plan was to build a cabinet that extended the lead in and the side support around the table. That would solve the problem, there is a clip that slots into one of the table slots and stops it tipping at the front. And as you say - the fence supports at the side. Cheers Andy
I noticed that when you made the initial cuts that the table tipped down because the saw fence wasn't in place. I presume that the Incra table needs to be resting on the extended saw fence at all times? Does this affect the versatility of the Incra table?
Hi Ian, I can’t argue that it is better if running on the fence, but still good when it isn’t The next step on that device is to build out the cabinet for it. This will have more support round the saw itself. Feed in, feed out and let and right. Cheers Andy
I have the same saw. I'm very pleased with it but it is probably the worst design for those of us wanting to enclose it in a cabinet due to the fence mechanism. Best of luck!
Hello Andy. I follow you since a wile now, but as beginner I don't understand why spend so mutch money when you already got your mft table sistem. What kind of advantage you got with the table saw that you don't with the other sistem that is not the miter cuts? Great video as usually. Stay safe
Hi Cristian, That is a really good question. It all comes down to a few things. Firstly it’s about improving the efficiency of the workflow. I have different things set up at different locations in the workshop. So I could be using the MFT for assembly and fine tuning on the table saw. Secondly it’s about improving the accuracy of the work - the less I can do after the tools have finished - that simple frame in this video is an example - the better I like it. Not don’t forget - I run the Woodgrafter as a business - not a hobby. So every minute I save in production is profit. All my tools have to meet three criteria. Can I do something better Can I do something I couldn’t do before Can I do something quicker I think you will have different needs for a hobby shop, and you wouldn’t need all the gear that I use. Great question, Thank you Andy
Hi Ron, I can see where you are going with this :-) From memory the TS was around the 430 mark. Don’t forget, I already had parts of the Incra system. And now I have a small compact system that allows me to make mm perfect cuts. Cheers Andy
@@TheWoodgrafter yes, that’s the kind of precision I’d like to have. And like you I have limited space. It’s just a bit hard to deal with the accessories costing more than the saw.
Hi Ron, Yea I hear you on the cost front. The design is pretty simple, it would be interesting to see if you can get that type of precession on a shop built device. Cheers Andy
@@TheWoodgrafter Hi Andy, I've got a 1000 HD on order and thinking about taking a shot at building the sled myself. I've got a technique with 3/4 Al bar stock and a ball peen hammer to make zero clearance runners and the rest of the sled looks doable.
I have exactly the same site saw as you have in this video! Whilst I agree that Incra kit is very good, I think a much smaller traditional cross-cut sled, made from timber, would be just as accurate and easy to use as this very expensive piece equipment. Who would make a ‘massive’ sled for such a small saw? Also, these days, most woodworkers have cross-cut saws that can cut 30/45/60 degree angle cuts etc quite accurately. Indeed my Festool Kapex will cut ‘compound’ angles very accurately also. Although I enjoy your videos, I think you would probably make a better salesman for Incra on this occasion?
Hi Len, You have a reasonable point, I also have the Kapex and love it. At the end of the day we need to find the best solution for our situation and neither is right or wrong - just different. I want all my tools to have maximum versatility and maximum accuracy. The size of the sled represented the size of the cut I needed to make at the time. I think that was making a large end grain cutting board. Would you get discount as an Incra salesman ? Cheers Andy
I bought this for the exact reasons you did. I have the same or similar saw. One change i made was to reverse the sides so the miter gauge is on the left. If you change blades, say std to thin kerf (and heaven forbid a dado set), your calibration is now off. The left side of the blade is always fixed against the motor. You can always use replacement panels for angled cuts, etc.
I built two crosscut sleds. An ordinary crosscut sled, and a smaller sled with replaceable plexiglass inserts that I use with my dado stack. I have insert sets for a variety of dado widths. Works great. (for angle and bevel cuts I just use my miter gauge alone). I don't see how the miter express can solve both angle and bevel cuts without undo hassle. I have an original Sawstop jobsite saw and yes, sled tipping in front of the blade can be an issue. I'm considering the Izzy Swan front extension, seems like a good idea.
Thanks for this tip. After a lifetime of cutting with the miter gauge on the left, putting it on the right would seem strange and some might say it adds a bit of a hazard….well, that’s what I’m saying. Like going to a country where they drive on the other side of the street from where you live…all the automatic and “natural” responses are backwards. Cheers!
Years ago, I got into some wood working and bought Incra TS/LS Joinery System. It's never realized wood could be worked with such accuracy. I didn't understand value of repeatability until I had to repair a few projects. Then everything was stolen. It's taken me years to slowly build up what I had, and during the time without Incra, I discovered how much EASIER it is to get saw cuts and miters correct with Incra. The price is MUCH less a factor now. I compare the benefits/value of using Incra equipment to using SHARP chisels, planes and scrapers.
Great Video. I've watched a few on the Miter Express, but no one has explained the Calibration as clearly and simply as you have done. I now have a greater understanding of how it all works.
Thanks you're a champion.
As usual a great video and perfectly explained. You'd make a great teacher. I've had the Miter express for a few years now and the best advice I got from my salesman was to square the fence to the cut line not the blade just in case the blade isn't 100% parallel to the slots and many aren't. That cut line is exactly parallel to the slot as that's the way it was cut, so it makes sense that the fence should be 90 deg. to that line/edge. Use a framing square against that edge. Worth checking but if all your cuts are square then it doesn't matter. I bought this for all the same reasons. I once made a sled with the works, dust collection, hold downs, T Tracks, guards etc but it was so heavy it was unusable. This ticks all the boxes other than expense.
Hi John,
Thank you for the feedback.
I am thinking about your advice, if the blade made the cut, aren’t the two things the same.
Although you would get a larger ref surface from the cut line - and those pesky teeth wouldn’t in the way. So that makes sense.
But I still think the blade and the cut would be parallel to each other.
This could be the woodworkers version of the chicken and the egg…
Cheers
Andy
@@TheWoodgrafter No they're not the same, Andy. If your blade is a long way off parallel to the slots and you try to square the fence off the blade then your fence will be perpendicular to the blade but NOT the slots and isn't your sled moving via those slots?
This video explains this perfectly
ruclips.net/video/NrTeFQ0iQ5k/видео.html
Hi John,
I don’t disagree about the slot and the blade, but once the blade has cut the sled board. The edge of your cut board surely must be parallel to the blade.
So at that point so long as the slot holds the sled at the same path of cut. I.E. the. Sled doesn’t wobble in the slot. Then the sled edge is held parallel to the blade.
Thank you for the video link, I will watch it later sounds like I am missing something.
Andy
So watched the video, get it now. And thank you for the education.
So the slot is a constant.
The blade is angled to the slot
The blade cuts a wider kerf then the thickness of the blade, (The actual kerf plus the offset of the blade)
The line the blade cuts is square to the track - even if the blade isn’t
So on a sled line up to the cut, not the blade.
With no sled, line up to the slot edge.
That was great video, and when it clicks it clicks.
Thank you again for the education - now I can go back to the shop and fine tune the sled.
:-)
Andy
@@TheWoodgrafter You've educated me so much over the years I'm glad I could return the favor.
Great review. I bought the Incra miter 5000 on sale two weeks ago for $299 including the Incra 3000 miter gauge, clamp, stop block, and fence. I was worried it would be too big for my DEWALT job site saw but it works great. I just need to attach a 3/4” strip of wood on the DEWALT fence support bars to give additional support to the Incra sled. Glad I found your channel.
Absolutely superb video and the best I've seen on this piece of equipment. It solved the problem that I couldn't workout how to get the drop panel aligned with the bar screw holes, I didn't realise it needed a second cut. Thank you!
This video is fantastic. Prior to seeing it I purchased the product and was a bit at sea regarding the setup. Your clear and specific instruction stepped me through the process beautifully. Much appreciated!!
Thank you Jeffrey, glad it helped.
Regards
Andy
Very nice buddy! You are so thrilled! My Incra will arrive this week. I cannot wait. Good job. Good luck!
Thank you for the comment.
Enjoy - great product.
Cheers
Andy
I am late to the party it seems, but wanted to thank you for this video. It was very informative and I appreciated the care and detail you included as you worked through the assembly and fitting to your saw (very similar model to the one I am working with). I think this bit of kit is exactly what I have been looking for. I was about to invest significant time and money building two different sleds, but this will save on both and yield better results. Again, I thank you for taking the time to make this. Cheers!
Thank you for the kind words.
This makes the shop built sled redundant. It is a great product, at a price, but a great product.
Cheers
Andy
A very comprehensive and detailed review of a beautifully crafted product, might not be cheap but Incra products are top quality. Thanks for another great review.
Hi Anthony,
Thank you, and yes a great product.
Cheers
Andy
Thanks for a great video! I have the same saw and this video will help me decide if I need the complete Incra setup. It will save me a lot of time once I get into it simply by referring back to your steps, so thanks again.
Hi Philip,
It all depends what you are making, how often and to what quality.
The saw (once tuned) is pretty good. This takes it to the next level.
Cheers
Andy
This video answered every question I have, so I thank you for making it.
Glad it helped,
Andy
Like you, I already have the mitre gauge, (Incra Miter 1000HD) which also includes the Stop and Fence. I’ve just purchased the Miter Express, (it arrived yesterday) and this is by far the most easy to follow, Step-by-step, and very detailed video, which also shows its capabilities too, that I have come across. Fantastic job, thank you very much. I feel much more confident sorting my own out now.
You have gained a new subscriber LOL :-)
Thank you for the kind words, and congrats on a great purchase.
Always happy to help if you have any questions.
Andy
Excellent video production Andy. May your new sled serve you well.
Thank you,
I think it will :-)
Andy
VERY well done video - thanks! Are you still using this? I ordered one for use with the Sawstop CTS and am absolutely on the fence of whether to keep it or send it back. Thanks!
I loved to spend Sunday afternoon watching ( in-between the Olympics). Excellent job. Thank you. I have a BOW extension fence added to my dewalt tablesaw with WT1 feed supports which gives additional feed support ( in feed and out feed) . It also has hold down support on out going wood to prevent kick back.
In addition, I had not been able to adjust the supplied dewalt fence to be square to the table but was able to shim the BOW FENCE (which attaches to and improves the dewalt fence dramatically) to finally , finally correct the left upper fence tilt toward blade problem . This addition really improved my sawing,
Do you ever wish you had one of the higher numbered Incra miter gauge’s like 1000SE OR 1000HD ? What did you add for out feed support or in feed support to your table ? 27:58
I have limited space ,
Did you make a any additional adaptions to your jig ?
I may need to sand my saw miter slots as you did .,
.thanks so much
Jack trotter in state of Idaho, USA .
Lol, I have metric and imperial hex tools out of necessity.
Thanks a third time !!!
Been looking for this good of a description of this tool vs a small table saw and you just answered everything in detail. Incra should be asking you for permission to use this video for sells purposes.
Thank you, glad it helped
Great video! Very helpful
Looks like a great piece of kit, well worth the money. I recently built a table saw sled to solve the problems you mentioned. Although I added a clamp and t-tracks, and it works quite well, the benefit of making the angled cuts and having the precise distances make me wonder if I shouldn't have gone for the Incra set instead. The only minor downsides I can see compared to a sled is possibly a little bit of tearout and the blade being a little more exposed.
Hi Michael,
The Incra will be one of those
Investment that will still be adding value to my production, long after the pain of purchase has passed.
Having used it, I won’t be going back to a shop built sled
Cheers
Andy
Great video Andy, having the Incra bits an pieces make it a great cost effective solution to your issues. I made myself a quick fit infeed support bracket based on Izzi Swans design that gives me the support for my cross cut sled and Kreg Mitre gauge.. I will make sure I post a pic to your website. Nice one Matey.
Cheers Paul,
Just watched the Izzi video, really nice idea.
Cheers
Andy
Hi Andy, great video! Where did you actually buy your Incra Mitre Express?
Good to see that Incra fixed the terrible miter bar with the little plastic roller wheels. They work on a big saw but with a little table top like a contractors saw, they little plastic roller wheels come forward out of the slot and it is completely out of whack until all the plastic wheels are back in the slot.
Hi,
Thank you for the feedback. I didn’t realise there was a previous issue.
This one seems pretty good, so perhaps the design has been modified.
Andy
Thanks for the video! How wide of a panel do you think you can comfortably cut with this sled now? I have the same problem with my small saw.
I have the same setup! Excellent review and tips for assembly. Although this setup is new to me, I’m not crazy about the necessity of the right side set up. Mainly because it requires me to remove the fence on longer pieces. That said, it is a very nice system and I’m sure to grow accustomed to this minor quirk.
Thank you, my plan was (and is) build a cabinet for the table saw so I wouldn’t have to use the fence with the Incra. That will elevate that problem.
Andy, you are a busy bee indeed! Great video. I got rid of my large table saw and went with the festool system alone. I wanted to get the festool table saw module, but it is not available here in the US. I wish it was, but I guess we cannot rely on "zee Germans." I'm considering a small jobsite saw just for rip cuts for thin material. I build shop cabinets similar to Paoson Woodworks (brilliant technique you should check out) and I need thin strips that are incredibly accurate. I'm considering the dewalt among other options. Just have to make the decision.
Hi,
I have moved away from the Festool module, the lack of miter slots restricted the ability to make sleds etc.
Also changing between the router, router module, track saw and table saw became tedious to the point where I found work around to not use them. This impacted the quality of the work.
I find it much better to have dedicated stations so the right tool becomes part of the workflow.
The Incra sled has made the DeWalt a different machine.
Cheers
Andy
Great review thanks.
i`ll just go and check my lottery ticket now.
Hi Joe,
Sometimes you have to shut your eyes and jump, I am saying up a laser cutter for the CAM side of the business.
That will be one of those moments.
Good luck with the lottery.
Andy
I guess I would have fixed the panel in the screw holes that are closer to you on the miter runner so you can cut wider boards and more of that runner stays in the slot when you pull it all the way back when you start your cut.
It depends on your application, From memory I pretty much maxed out the capacity - but you could well be correct.
Cheers
Andy
I’m sure it’s as good as money can buy. But not available anywhere?
It doesn’t seem like the miter bar under the drop panel is needed to be bang-on tight in the miter slot…since the miter bar is anchored to the other panel and the drop panel is just supporting the workpiece…(is that over-explaining? I think so…). BTW, I already had the “Build-It” system and just needed the center aluminum piece which I ordered from Incra separately…we’ll see how that works. I already had the Miter 1000HD, so in for a penny…
Great job. Could you please share what brand of square you used?
Thank you,
I can’t remember to be honest what I used in this video.
My set squares are Starrett
My squares are Incra precision squares
My setup/framing triangles are Benchdogs.co.uk
Hope that’s helps
Andy
Good Review, well worth watching. If you didn’t have your mitre gauge and fence, would you consider the INCRA Miter Gauge 5000?
Hi Jonathon,
Thank you for the feedback.
On my system no, the simple reason is size. It is much larger than the one I used here so probably to big for my shop and saw.
It is a similar concept though, so would work in much the same way with the same results.
Andy
Hi Andy, Are you supposed to remove the fixed down table every time you tilt your blade over, because if you don't you will have cut into your zero clearance cut ?
Hi Allan,
My plan is to remove the left hand panel if I tilt the blade. I would probably make a simple fixed MDF drop pane for the angles cut.
I don’t really want to cut into the sled as is but I guess you have a choice, depending on what you need it for.
Good spot
Andy
OK Of course I want one right... But for the most part isn't this what a compound miter is really used for? On My Table saw I do a lot of ripping, i make dados, and every few year make coped trim. I never use it for cutting angles for the most part.
Hi Andy. With your demo would you always do this for that width or use your Kapex?
Great video
Neels
Hi,
To be honest I tend to mix and match depending on the project.
For example, I may have an angle dialled into the table saw, so I would use the Kapex for a different angle.
If I only have one cut to make, and I have the capacity then I would grab the Kapex.
I tend to have multiple ways of achieving an outcome - and every tool in the workflow is calibrated and delivers the best result it can deliver.
So no set method or rule,
Sorry that doesn’t help much does it :-(
Andy
Hi Andy
It actually does help. If two tools overlap it gives you options to optimise your workflow.
@@kosielemmer Exactly, its all about workflow at any give time in any given project.
Andy
What a superb review thanks
Thank you
Nice review and love incra accuracy and repeatability
Hi Sam,
I can’t believe how much Incra has creapt into the shop, the fence, the marking gear, the squares and now the sled.
It really tightens up the precession and the quality.
Cheers
Andy
@@TheWoodgrafter yeah I sold my mitre express before I got to use it same as the ls-ts as didn't have a big enough saw for it but am putting more incra track and teeth around the workshop as the end stops are good. Definately agree the tools make it more of a pleasure to work and give comfort in reliability
I would have loved to have enough space for a decent cabinet saw with incra fence but not so possible :(
Yes I know what you mean, space is getting tight. Hence a small site saw ‘tuned’ to give me accuracy and the router now built into the bench.
The more I buy, the more ingenious I become with shop design :-)
Cheers
Andy
@@TheWoodgrafter yeah I have the Axminster ac216ts and added another wing to the right, its the smallest cast iron top induction motor 'real' saw I could find it's nice and have the sliding table extension as well. I had tool stands and usually make small cabinets instead although I put my Laguna Sander on my systainer cabinet but it's not as stable lol
what blade are you using on your dewalt for them clean cuts boss?
I cannot, for the life of me, get the sled to fit the DeWalt saw. No matter how much I tighten it. It still moves side to side. So, tried small pieces of the tape - didn't work at all. Any ideas?
If somebody made high quality replacement talbe top for the most common jobsite table saws they would sell like crazy
Now that is a good idea.
@@TheWoodgrafter The tooling shouldn't cost very much, its worth exploring
@s70cas7ic0 I think time would be my enemy, I don’t have much of it spare.
Cheers
Andy
Will this fit the Delta contractor saw DWE7149RS?
Nice review. Thanks. I would’ve liked to have seen the largest cross cut you can do, has that’s the only reason I’d be interested in buying the sled. For narrow cross cuts I’d probably use the mitre gauge in the t slots. Also, do you know if the gauge could be used ahead (in reverse if you like) of the work piece, like on some larger panel saws?
Hi thank you, the cross cutting capacity will change depending on your table saw. The larger the lead in between the edge of the table saw and the blade the larger the capacity.
On my saw it is very small, so the intent is to make an indeed table to increase capacity.
I guess you could use this ahead, bug then the cutting forces would be pulling the stock away from the fence so at beat may introduce inaccuracies at worst twist and kick back, not sure I would try it.
Cheers
Andy
@@TheWoodgrafter I guess on larger saws where you push the fence with the material, the dedicated sliding table and heavier stock come into play. Thanks for your reply.
Yes, that would make sense.
Cheers
Andy
Great video. I have watched your video several times trying to decide on a purchase. My saw is the DWE7491, similar in size to your saw, and was concerned with the lack of support for the sled from the limited table top. Your idea of using the fence seems to work for the extra support. During the test cut portion, it appeared without using the fence the sled seemed to tip towards the end of the cuts. That was my biggest concern. I contacted INCRA (Mark) and he suggested not attaching the middle piece of sled (first panel to the right of the miter gauge). If I purchase, I will strongly look at setting up left of the blade without using that middle panel. Stability is going to be an issue for me going forward. Any thoughts or feedback? Thanks
I have recently changed my table saw, but my plan was to build a cabinet that extended the lead in and the side support around the table.
That would solve the problem, there is a clip that slots into one of the table slots and stops it tipping at the front. And as you say - the fence supports at the side.
Cheers
Andy
Great Review!
Thank you Eric
Is this the dewalt 7491rs?
Very nice
I noticed that when you made the initial cuts that the table tipped down because the saw fence wasn't in place. I presume that the Incra table needs to be resting on the extended saw fence at all times? Does this affect the versatility of the Incra table?
Hi Ian,
I can’t argue that it is better if running on the fence, but still good when it isn’t
The next step on that device is to build out the cabinet for it. This will have more support round the saw itself.
Feed in, feed out and let and right.
Cheers
Andy
I have the same saw. I'm very pleased with it but it is probably the worst design for those of us wanting to enclose it in a cabinet due to the fence mechanism.
Best of luck!
@@MillfieldWheels
I agree with that, I have a design - but boy did it take some work.
And I have yet to build it…..
Cheers
Andy
Hello Andy. I follow you since a wile now, but as beginner I don't understand why spend so mutch money when you already got your mft table sistem. What kind of advantage you got with the table saw that you don't with the other sistem that is not the miter cuts?
Great video as usually. Stay safe
Hi Cristian,
That is a really good question. It all comes down to a few things.
Firstly it’s about improving the efficiency of the workflow. I have different things set up at different locations in the workshop. So I could be using the MFT for assembly and fine tuning on the table saw.
Secondly it’s about improving the accuracy of the work - the less I can do after the tools have finished - that simple frame in this video is an example - the better I like it.
Not don’t forget - I run the Woodgrafter as a business - not a hobby. So every minute I save in production is profit.
All my tools have to meet three criteria.
Can I do something better
Can I do something I couldn’t do before
Can I do something quicker
I think you will have different needs for a hobby shop, and you wouldn’t need all the gear that I use.
Great question,
Thank you
Andy
Thank you for such a comprehensive review, just one question: what size is the allen key to tighten the bolts?
You paid 373 for the Incra system. How much did you pay for your table saw?
Hi Ron,
I can see where you are going with this :-)
From memory the TS was around the 430 mark. Don’t forget, I already had parts of the Incra system.
And now I have a small compact system that allows me to make mm perfect cuts.
Cheers
Andy
@@TheWoodgrafter yes, that’s the kind of precision I’d like to have. And like you I have limited space. It’s just a bit hard to deal with the accessories costing more than the saw.
Hi Ron,
Yea I hear you on the cost front. The design is pretty simple, it would be interesting to see if you can get that type of precession on a shop built device.
Cheers
Andy
@@TheWoodgrafter Hi Andy, I've got a 1000 HD on order and thinking about taking a shot at building the sled myself. I've got a technique with 3/4 Al bar stock and a ball peen hammer to make zero clearance runners and the rest of the sled looks doable.
I have exactly the same site saw as you have in this video! Whilst I agree that Incra kit is very good, I think a much smaller traditional
cross-cut sled, made from timber, would be just as accurate and easy to use as this very expensive piece equipment. Who would make a ‘massive’ sled for such a small saw? Also, these days, most woodworkers have cross-cut saws that can cut 30/45/60 degree angle cuts etc quite accurately. Indeed my Festool Kapex will cut ‘compound’ angles very accurately also. Although I enjoy your videos, I think you would probably make a better salesman for Incra on this occasion?
Hi Len,
You have a reasonable point, I also have the Kapex and love it.
At the end of the day we need to find the best solution for our situation and neither is right or wrong - just different.
I want all my tools to have maximum versatility and maximum accuracy.
The size of the sled represented the size of the cut I needed to make at the time. I think that was making a large end grain cutting board.
Would you get discount as an Incra salesman ?
Cheers
Andy
It is good except for its price.
buy a better table saw.
Nope,
There where reasons why I got this one.
Andy