Yes - I trimmed down the pegs of the kreg clamps so that they would not bottom out into the holes of the pallet. An easy way to do this - create a small blank the same height as the depth of the hole in the pallet - then machine a through hole for the peg. Use this as a cut off guide - set the clamp on one side and let the peg protrude through the hole on the back side - and simply trim the peg flush with a flush trim saw against the back side of the jig. Hope that helps! ;-)
@@OakLines thank you! Did this impact the fiction of the in line clamps? Are you comfortable with only using the inline clamps or do you feel you need downward pressure from a hold down clamp as well?
@@Htxcustom I was initially concerned about this - but they seem to work fine. Remember they are pushing against the fixed back caul which prevents vertical uplift. This arrangement works great until you use thin material which can buckle from side load - then you'll need a different strategy. But for production work with most materials - this is fast and easy - works great! ;-}
@@OakLines thank you so much! That’s all I needed to know. I was tired of having to manually reset the protect price in the zero location and having to use hold downs to do production work. Thank you again!
Wondering what gcode u are using for poketing , seems that is a bit for dancing , intead of cutting , what is with that all retract of bit , what is the ideea to retract a millling bit from stock in order to cut cut air for all that holes , why u dont engage in more stock with cutter , and what is the cam cad u are using . Tnaks .
I use VCarve Pro. For the holes - this is called pecking. Router bits spin much faster than drill bits - so the idea is to engage the stock with the max cut depth of the end mill (usually half its diameter) and then retract to clear the hole and allow the bit to cool, and repeat. Same general idea for pocketing - cut a layer, retract, move to starting point, engage and repeat.
Hi, Glad you found something useful. RE leveling the spoil board: The machine frame has already been squared and leveled - as has the main spoil board - so then it just down to variations in the thickness of the pallet blank. For my purposes the variation in thickness of the blank over 3ft is well within my tolerances - and you can kind of get the idea by observing the consistency of the pocket for the back rail and the depth of the engraving. But primarily - I just wanted to maintain as much thickness as possible for the clamping holes. You may notice that they don't go all the way through - there is a small onion skin that remains on the bottom - this prevents dust and chips from getting between the table surface and the bottom of the pallet (which could cause wear and alignment issues). Best Regards Dale
This is an awesome setup. love the idea having the embedded tool length measurements and the alignment pins. where did you get those pins? also, what are G57, G56, G59, etc used for?
Thanks for the kind words! You can find the locating pins at most industrial supply houses - here a link to several styles on McMaster-Carr: www.mcmaster.com/alignment-pins/locating-pins/mating-locating-pins-and-hole-liners/ The G56, G56, G59 engraved on the surface - represent zero points for fixture coordinate spaces. These are maintained by the controller - so you can simply clamp stock on the fixture pallet - select the appropriate coordinate system in the post processor - and go to work. In other words - the system has several zero points and based upon the type of stock used - simply select that coordinate system when outputting. Then when you get to the machine - you're ready to go - no need to manually zero every piece of stock.
@@OakLines Ah, looks ike you're using linux CNC. I wish my controller has this, it would be great! Maybe I need to switch over to linux cnc. Not having to zero your xyz every time you start a job would make things move faster. Thanks for the reply.
Hi Dale Nice video, do you have some more info on the cnc? Whats the controller board how do you use the sensor for the bits and hoe does that work with positioning
Hi Erik, The system is an older Probtix Asteroid - something similar to this: www.probotix.com/CNC-ROUTER-GX3725 The tool length sensor automatically measures tool offset to account for whatever tool is installed. Because the system also uses limit switches for the homing process - it maintains work space coordinates that are setup for the fixture pallet - and the tool length sensor can automatically compensate for any tool put in the router - to maintain the fixture z-zero points. Long way of saying - it maintains coordinates relative to the fixture - hence no need to touch off on the work piece. Look back through my videos - I think there is one that walks through how I use fixture coordinates with the limit switches so you don't need to touch off on an work item - it's all done relative to the fixture. Huge productivity and repeatability gain.
@@OakLines I was looking later for this after my response, was hoping i could use this for my cnc too, but mine a a diy with a arduino GRBL board. i havent done enough to figure out what software could do this also for me.
BRILLIANT !!!!!
Love the cell phone mount!
Did you have to modify the kreg clamps to fit so the it doesn’t hit the bottom spoil board? Thanks.
Yes - I trimmed down the pegs of the kreg clamps so that they would not bottom out into the holes of the pallet. An easy way to do this - create a small blank the same height as the depth of the hole in the pallet - then machine a through hole for the peg. Use this as a cut off guide - set the clamp on one side and let the peg protrude through the hole on the back side - and simply trim the peg flush with a flush trim saw against the back side of the jig.
Hope that helps! ;-)
@@OakLines thank you! Did this impact the fiction of the in line clamps? Are you comfortable with only using the inline clamps or do you feel you need downward pressure from a hold down clamp as well?
@@Htxcustom I was initially concerned about this - but they seem to work fine. Remember they are pushing against the fixed back caul which prevents vertical uplift. This arrangement works great until you use thin material which can buckle from side load - then you'll need a different strategy. But for production work with most materials - this is fast and easy - works great! ;-}
@@OakLines thank you so much! That’s all I needed to know. I was tired of having to manually reset the protect price in the zero location and having to use hold downs to do production work. Thank you again!
Wondering what gcode u are using for poketing , seems that is a bit for dancing , intead of cutting , what is with that all retract of bit , what is the ideea to retract a millling bit from stock in order to cut cut air for all that holes , why u dont engage in more stock with cutter , and what is the cam cad u are using .
Tnaks .
I use VCarve Pro. For the holes - this is called pecking. Router bits spin much faster than drill bits - so the idea is to engage the stock with the max cut depth of the end mill (usually half its diameter) and then retract to clear the hole and allow the bit to cool, and repeat. Same general idea for pocketing - cut a layer, retract, move to starting point, engage and repeat.
What are those clamps? Link please!
Hi Raul,
They are Kreg In-Line Clamps - here is a link:
amzn.to/2OiZBJ4
Is there a reason why you didn’t level the new spoil board? I like a few of the features here, I’ll be adding to my cnc.
Hi,
Glad you found something useful. RE leveling the spoil board: The machine frame has already been squared and leveled - as has the main spoil board - so then it just down to variations in the thickness of the pallet blank. For my purposes the variation in thickness of the blank over 3ft is well within my tolerances - and you can kind of get the idea by observing the consistency of the pocket for the back rail and the depth of the engraving. But primarily - I just wanted to maintain as much thickness as possible for the clamping holes. You may notice that they don't go all the way through - there is a small onion skin that remains on the bottom - this prevents dust and chips from getting between the table surface and the bottom of the pallet (which could cause wear and alignment issues).
Best Regards
Dale
Great job! Just a question, where did you get those side clamps?
Hi Ale,
Thanks for the kind words! ;-]
They are Kreg In-Line Clamps - available on amazon here:
amzn.to/2OiZBJ4
Hello, I liked these blue brackets to lock the piece! Where I find?
Those are Kreg In-Line Clamps - available on amazon here:
amzn.to/2OiZBJ4
This is an awesome setup. love the idea having the embedded tool length measurements and the alignment pins. where did you get those pins?
also, what are G57, G56, G59, etc used for?
Thanks for the kind words!
You can find the locating pins at most industrial supply houses - here a link to several styles on McMaster-Carr:
www.mcmaster.com/alignment-pins/locating-pins/mating-locating-pins-and-hole-liners/
The G56, G56, G59 engraved on the surface - represent zero points for fixture coordinate spaces. These are maintained by the controller - so you can simply clamp stock on the fixture pallet - select the appropriate coordinate system in the post processor - and go to work. In other words - the system has several zero points and based upon the type of stock used - simply select that coordinate system when outputting. Then when you get to the machine - you're ready to go - no need to manually zero every piece of stock.
@@OakLines Ah, looks ike you're using linux CNC. I wish my controller has this, it would be great! Maybe I need to switch over to linux cnc. Not having to zero your xyz every time you start a job would make things move faster.
Thanks for the reply.
Hi Dale Nice video, do you have some more info on the cnc? Whats the controller board how do you use the sensor for the bits and hoe does that work with positioning
Hi Erik,
The system is an older Probtix Asteroid - something similar to this:
www.probotix.com/CNC-ROUTER-GX3725
The tool length sensor automatically measures tool offset to account for whatever tool is installed. Because the system also uses limit switches for the homing process - it maintains work space coordinates that are setup for the fixture pallet - and the tool length sensor can automatically compensate for any tool put in the router - to maintain the fixture z-zero points. Long way of saying - it maintains coordinates relative to the fixture - hence no need to touch off on the work piece.
Look back through my videos - I think there is one that walks through how I use fixture coordinates with the limit switches so you don't need to touch off on an work item - it's all done relative to the fixture. Huge productivity and repeatability gain.
@@OakLines I was looking later for this after my response, was hoping i could use this for my cnc too, but mine a a diy with a arduino GRBL board. i havent done enough to figure out what software could do this also for me.
Does he realize the white text on translucent yellow background is hard as hell to read
He does - thanks for sharing! ;-]
Does the F'ing music need to be so loud!
Yes - yes it does. :-)