Man, i was already familiar with the aperture settings BUT you truly made me understand the full potentiel and correct use of this tool. Your clear explanation and the examples given opened my vision about how to properly use aperture, for that i can only give you a deep thank you from my heart. Great job
Hi fisio, thank you so much for your kind feedback, my friend! So fantastic to hear that this video was useful for you. See you in the next one 😉 Nice greetings, Christian
Hi Iñaki, thank you so much, really happy you enjoyed the video! I think a focus stacking video could be interesting. There will come one, where I mention a new methode I've developed. But it is always important for me to make my videos as useful and interesting as possible, so please give me some time therefore. I've noted it on my "next possible videos" list :) Enjoy your weekend and nice greetings, Christian
Hi my friend, to be honest I always fear to appear too enthusiastic in my videos :) But yeah, it is how it is - I really love landscape photography and sharing everything I know :) Thank you so much for watching and have a great weekend, Christian
Servus Christian, das ist wohl eines der "ewigen" Themen 🤔 je mehr Möglichkeiten vorgestellt werden, desto unsicherer wird die Fotografen Schar 😉 deshalb: volle Zustimmung zum distance focussing👍 und wenn man sich nicht sicher ist, halt noch eine Variante dazu. Und passt. "Schärfe Ausblicke" wünscht ich dir Klaus
Hallo Klaus, das seh ich ganz genauso: Nachdem jeder auf was anderes geschwört hat, hab ich jahrelang verschiedenste Fokusmethoden ausprobiert. Manchmal stellt sich dann das Einfachste als die ideale Lösung heraus, aber ich brauchte Jahre um mir das einzugestehen. Hyper Focal Distanz anzuwenden war irgendwie "cooler" :) Ein super Wochenende wünsch ich dir, Christian
The way you explain things, your calm tone of voice just makes it so much easier for people to understand, not complicated or confusing but simple and to the point 👍 Much appreciate the time you take to do these helpful and insightful videos for us all. Thanks mate! 👍
Hi Epeyce, thank you so much for your really kind words, my friend! I'm really happy to help out other photography interested people - so fantastic to get such positive feedback :) Thank you so much for watching and nice greetings from Austria, Christian
Ich finde es immer wieder toll, wie anschaulich und gut verständlich (insbesondere für mich als Laien) deine Erklärungen und Tipps sind! Auch deine Beispielbilder sind wie immer super schön und perfekt ausgesucht 👌🏼😍. Genieße dein Wochenende und lieben Gruß aus dem winterlichen München! 🙋🏼♀️
Hallo Chris, vielen lieben Dank für dein nettes Feedback. Das freut mich echt sehr, dass das Video hilfreich für dich war. Ein schönes Wander- und Fotografiewochenende wünsch ich dir, Christian
Ich kann überhaupt nicht verstehen warum 2 Leute "thumbs down" gegeben haben. Das Video war gut gedreht und ein wichtiges Thema. Wie immer "Vielen Dank".
Hallo Erich, vielen lieben Dank! Also ehrlich gesagt, verstehe ich nicht, warum man überhaupt einen Daumen nach unten gibt bei einem Video, selber hab ich das noch nie gemacht. Aber offenbar machen das manche, wenn sie aus dem Video nichts Nützliches entnehmen können oder evtl. auch einfach nicht zu Ende schauen. Was ich inzwischen bemerkt habe ist, dass es nicht nur auf hilfreiche Tips ankommt bei einem RUclips-Video, sondern auch wie interessant man das Video aufbaut. Ich gebe mir das wirklich größte Mühe, aber ich denke, man wird da vielleicht auch mit den ganz Großen verglichen, die das schon jahrelang machen und schon ganz anders reden können. Aber es ist noch kein Meister vom Himmel gefallen - es ist wie in der Fotografie: Üben, üben, üben - besser werden, besser werden, besser werden :-) Umso mehr freue ich mich dann aber über jedes einzelne Kommentar, besonders wenn die dann so nett sind wie deine. Denn es steckt wirklich ein großer Aufwand hinter jedem einzelnen Video und ich verdiene damit auch nichts, die Vergütung aus der Werbung reicht nicht mal für die Spritkosten. Positives Feedback ist die beste Gage die ich bekommen kann :) Vielen Dank daher nochmals, Erich - das freut mich echt sehr! Ein super Wochenende wünsch ich dir, Christian
People who do a 'thumbs down' are usually people who are not able to make a good informative video themselves. And that frustration manifests itself in a false negativity that leads to nothing. Instead of appreciating that there are people who want to share knowledge, these people often like to remain anonymous. And this video is well made and thankfully appreciated by many. 😉
and yet another great video from you, thanks, I wish I had more time to view more of them in full and on a regular basis. One little extra thing would make it a masterclass tutorial: settings made showed next to each photo. Sometimes you mention the aperture, yet a look at full data, pause, think over, digest and continue watching - would be 100/100.
Hi Robert, thanks a lot for your kind words and also for your suggestions for improvement. Feedback like that is really, really important to me! I will think about that in future, to add additional information to images when that is relevant to the topic 😊 Nice greetings from the mountains, Christian
@@christian.irmler To paraphrase my thinking - when I have an photography album or a book on a particular topic, which goal is to educate in the art of photography, examples without aperture/speed/iso values (and optional additional things like a filter etc.) make such a book 50% redundant. A superb print quality won't make up for this. BTW - I loved the fact that you placed focus points on each photo. I literally paused the video and digested the content thinking hmmm... ok, I get it, I agree, disagree. Or even I was playing in my mind - "oh, in this photo it would be here!" (and I missed often :))
Hi Hakan, a warm welcome to my channel! Really nice to hear, that the video was useful for you :) Thank you so much for watching, nice greetings from Austria, Christian
Hi Ismail, thank you so much for your positive feedback, my friend. Really nice to hear, that the video was useful for you :) Thank you for watching and nice greetings from Austria, Christian
Hi Dayı, thank you so much my friend, this really means a lot and this motivates to produce more videos like that :) Thank you so much for watching and nice greetings from Austria, Christian
Hi Sergey, thank you my friend! Yes, I think a video about mastering focus stacking could be useful. But please give me some time therefor, I want to make it as interesting as possible :) Have a great day and nice greetings from Austria, Christian
Hi Herling, thank you so much for your kind words, I really appreciate! A warm welcome to my channel, I really hope, that you also like all my other videos ;) Have a great day and nice greetings from Austria, Christian
I commend you for constantly giving and feeding us great and useful information too improve our photography without shoving in our faces (buy this and buy that) as so many of your contemporary U-Tube bloggers do. Thank you .... Needed too be said. Stay healthy and safe.
Hi Ferid, thank you so much for your kind words, my friend - means a lot! I think there is generally nothing bad with recommending things to buy - there are lots of useful helpers and tools. But I would never make a video with the main interest of just selling anything. My main interest will always be to help out photography interested people. I will only suggest tools, if they are really useful and I'm totally convinced by myself. But the truth is: The most impact on photography is not by gear, it is much more composition :) Thank you for watching and nice greetings from Austria, Christian
Just discovered your channel. I love your presentation, I think the most enjoyable thing to me is how you explain your thought process! You communicate in a way that I feel would appeal to a broad range of experience levels. Nice job! Can’t wait to binge on your channel 😅
Hi Tracy, first of all, welcome to my channel. Fantastic to have you here :) Thank you so much for your positive feedback and your kind words. This really means a lot! Have a great weekend, see you, Christian
Hi @sk-hd4ys, thank you so much, my friend 😊 I prefer to use a small focus point, so that I can decide by myself exactly where to focus. But there are different focusing techniques I use to get a better result. That's maybe stuff for a new video. We will see 😉 Nice greetings, Christian
Thanks alot Christian, very detailed video explained in the simplest best way possible. Will surely try out your method when i am out in the fields. 👏🏽👏🏽🙌🏽👍
Hi my friend, really nice to hear, that the video was useful for you. I wish you the best conditions when you'll try out my mentioned focussing methods, to get out some outstanding photographs ;) Thank you so much for watching, nice greetings from Austria, Christian
Good info Christian, you explained that really well. I loved the images you used as examples. It's always interesting to see how other photographers do their work. Thanks for sharing the video, enjoyed watching 👍🙏
Hi Adrian, thank you so much buddy! I see it like you. Everyone prefers his own methods and has reasons therefore. It's also always interesting for me to have a look what others do :) Thank you for watching and enjoy your weekend, Christian
Very good overview Christian. One comment on focus stacking. Photographers should be aware of focus breathing as if it is excessive it will make blending a very tricky exercise.
Hi Thanons, thank you my friend! Yes, there are a couple of things to be considered for focus stacking, but the biggest issue for me always was that the foreground gets too sharp :) But I found also a way to get rid of that. Will come in an own video in some time. Thank you so much for watching and enjoy your weekend, Christian
Great video! You provided excellent detail and reasoning with your methods. I've never really nailed down the best focusing methods for me and I will admit, I've been mostly "guessing" at the right spot for many years. Thankfully with APS-C you have some wiggle room with DoF, and as long as you keep apertures at f/8 or f/11, and don't focus on something too close to the lens, many shots will be in decent focus. The challenges are, mastering getting everything/almost everything in focus, and knowing when you don't _need_ to get everything in focus. I really liked your reasoning about mountain layers and the trees of the forest not being the main characters, but instead support the story of the photo. Thank you very much for your insights, Christian!
Hi @TechnicallyRugged, thank you so much for your kind comment, my friend. I'm so happy that the video was useful for you :) Nice greetings from Austria, Christian
Very well explained! If your shooting wide angle using a 20mm lens or wider, have you ever heard of a method where you determine the distance from the nearest subject in your foreground you want sharp to your camera and then double that distance and that is your Hyperfocal Distance and where you focus. I use this method most of the time and it works extremely well.
Hi my friend, yes I also use the hyper focal distance method, as mentioned in the video - but only if distance focussing doesn't lead into the wished result, as hyper focal distance unfortunately doesn't lead into the best possible sharpness for me. Thank you so much for watching and nice greetings from Austria, Christian
Fabulously helpful video as always 👏 👏 being quite inexperienced at landscape photography, I was wondering 🤔 once you have chosen your focus spot, is it possible to select manual focus to check overall focus, I have a Sony camera which has a focus peaking colour which to my thoughts should show up in all areas that are in focus. Am I correct in thinking this or like much in photography, not much is as straightforward as it seems 😅🤣 thanks for your wonderful videos 🙏😊
Hi Thomas, yes, I do that like you said: I decide for a focus point and then I don't change it anymore. Be careful with focus peaking, it is not a 100% thing. I use auto focus most of the time, as it works amazingly meanwhile :) Thanks a lot for watching, my friend! Nice greetings, Christian
@@christian.irmler thanks very much for your feedback Christian 😊 it’s a treat to watch your videos and the information you pass on is invaluable to people like myself 🙏😊
Great tips on focusing Christian! very useful! It's always a challenge to focus properly in the field since you always face different compositions and conditions.
Hi Bulent, to be honest: Before I used distance focussing, there was always the risk to come home with blurry photos, what sometimes happened, especially on time critical situations like the light comes in or the cloud moved there where I need it. But since I use distance focussing, I got never out of focus images again - that already for years. Great to hear, that the video was useful for you :) Nice greetings, Christian
This is a good tutorial on the basics of focus for landscape. One thing: you have "Advertisement" showing on the upper right corner of the video because you gave it that category. You're not advertising anything. I suggest you change the category to "education". Thanks!
Hi John, thank you so much my friend! I don't categorize my videos as advertisement, this is a kind of watermark I integrate already when I cut my videos - on purpose. The thing is: The laws here in the EU are that crazy, that whenever I say or show any brand in a video, I would need to mention, that this is advertisement or I could also say that it where not - but I have to declare. If I forget one time, I could get into law problems. And you know, there are so many brands you see in a landscape photography channel, it is not possible to avoid. I don't get payed therefor, I just want to stay safe. Lots of RUclipsrs in Germany do exactly the same. The advice of my lawner was, also to declare my videos as advertisement videos, so I'm totally safe. This gives me the freedom to talk about brands and not to think about if there is anywhere the one or other logo to see in my videos. Finally it's really funny: Whenever you watch my videos, you watch advertisment tv :) Have a great day my friend and nice greetings from Austria, Christian
@@christian.irmler thanks for clarifying! I guess if I ever get monetized, these are things I have to think about. RUclips Studio in the US has a box to check if I include sponsored content; then a disclaimer will appear at the beginning of the video. I talk about what specific gear I'm using all the time. I suppose I should mention it's all stuff I bought and paid for myself and I'm not shilling for anyone.
@@JohnDrummondPhoto We also have this checkbox here in Europe, but things are more complicated here in EU :) Here this gets already a problem if you are not monetized. It is law, that you have to clarify advertisement, independend if you are paid therefor or not. Showing or talking about any brands is seen as advertisment. If you don't declare it, it could cost thousands. So yeah, this is why I have an advertisement channel :-) Not sure how things are in US, but I would generally suggest to take advice at a lawner. This costs a bit of money, but will protect to loose a lot of more money. Crazy how things are - but you know: Safety first :)
Hi Pow Pow, thank you for your interesting thoughts, my friend! I just fear, it would not work, due to some problems: First of all we have to consider that focussing is a kind of "micro-zooming". So whenever you turn the focus ring, also the zoom changes slightly. This is why you would change the focus while exposing, which leads to blurry photos. This technique is done in ICM photography with the zoom ring instead of the focus ring and that leads to nice, blurry effects (wished in that case). The second problem is that you have to touch your camera while exposing, which also leads to blurry photos, when the exposure time is not super fast (which is not all too often in landscape photography). And then you would also run into a problem turning the focus ring in the right speed. What if the exposure takes multiple seconds? And what if you want to exposure bracket simultaniously? But I like your idea. Modern cameras offer automatic focus stacking and do exactly what you have described :) Just during exposing the focus is not changed. They use several focus points, instead. Afterwards you just have to stack the images. But focus stacking does not always work, especially when there are moving elements. The best way is really to learn how and where to focus. Handling focus is not difficult, actually. Maybe a little bit of practice in the beginning. But it's easy to come in. Thanks a lot for watching and nice greetings, Christian
You speak about 'waiting' for conditions to change. I guess I'm fairly impatient! I find waiting difficult---- I am missing other pics, yet unfound! But what are you talking about when you talk about waiting for conditions to improve? A few minutes? Hours? All day? Days? Weeks? What? Being impatient it is difficult for me to sit and wait! I'm not sure I want to wait too long for Mr Grizzlie Bear to come find me! Or Mr Mountain Lion, either. Mr Turtle I can outrun, no problem. And don't forget what Mr Wolf did in Little Red Riding Hood! Sitting, waiting, I loose focus on my surroundings and Mr Grizzly might come eat me for his lunch! By moving I am scanning, looking, and looking, and looking. Listening, too. Sitting for any length of time makes me feel vulnerable to wild animals, rattle snakes, scorpions, etc. Things you probably don't have to think about. Except for wild boars??? But I will do it if you say so! 99% of the time I'm alone, so safety is on me! And me, alone! (And Yes, I have bear spray! And a whistle! And usually an air horn! But no gun! And phones do not work in 97% of those western locations!) So again, when you talk about waiting what kind of time are you waiting? An average wait time, for you, is what, approximately? How long, on average? Your longest wait time was what? And did waiting pay off for you? Always? Or only sometimes? Just in case I find myself in 'more civilized' country and can wait! Thanks in advance, should you reply!
Hi Paul, it is really different how long I wait for the right conditions, after I've gone into setup. Usually it is not all too long. Maybe some minutes or an hour. When I know already in front, that it will take some hours to get my prefered conditions, I often explore other places and return later. Or I go home and return some weeks, months or years later :) Sometimes I also wait for hours in setup, but this is not all too often. We don't have all too many dangerous animals here in Austria, but it can happen that we meet dangerous wildlife when we are out in nature, of course. We can't totally avoid that. Important is to know about how to behave when you meet one. I can suggest to inform about that for all the dangerous animals that live in the area you want to visit. Usually they are shy and when they hear noise they don't come closer. Taking a photography friend with you is a good idea. When animals hear humans talking, they usually stay away :) Have a great day and nice greetings, Christian
OMG! I feel SO identified about the hyper focal issue of not being “smart enough” to use it 😂 One question though: why switching off the camera/lens stabilisation? Thanks!!!
Hi efe, it always takes a bit of time and a couple of testshots to find the hyper focal distance, this is normal :) Stabilisation always leads into a tiny bit of micro shakes, because the sensor is moved through a kind of "gimbal". So when you don't need to stabilize, it is better to turn it off. But there are exceptions where it is better to turn it on. I think, this could be an interesting topic for an own video. I'll put it on my wish list of videos - will come in future :) Thank you so much for watching, nice greetings from Austria, Christian
Thank you so much, Christian for sharing this nice tip. I'll try it out. I'd like to ask you if this tip only works with wide lenses or if it works with telephoto lenses as well. Thank you.
Hi Paulo, all mentioned focussing methods work with each focal length. The only thing you have to consider is, that the depth of field of a longer lens is generally shallower than from a wide lens. Whenever a common focussing methode doesn't work, because elements are too close, I go over to focus stacking. I got already some questions about focus stacking, there will come an own video about that in some time. But also with longer lenses, I use distance focussing most of the time. Thank you so much for watching, nice greetings from Austria, Christian
New subscriber here. Really enjoying your content. This video is something I’ve been trying to figure out for a long time. One of my problems is that I’m terrible at estimating distances so when I’m shooting stuff like waterfalls or woodlands, I waste time trying to estimate what the hyper focal distance is and I might lose the light or some other issue pops up. Any suggestions on how to get a quick but accurate measurement? Thanks!
Hi Gary, welcome to the channel, fantastic to have you here :) Oh yes, estimating distances is indeed difficult. I took a laser distance meter with me for a while to find out the perfect hyper focal distance, but as mentioned in the video, I came away from hyper focal distance as it doesn't lead to the best possible sharpness. Today I use it just in very specific situations. When I need hyper focal distance today, I test different focus points by making test shots. And ultimately, I pick out that one that worked best. I hope this helps :) Nice greetings and see you in the next video, Christian
Hi Muhamme, you are totally right, it were useful if cameras would include more helpers. Generally it were already possible to include a function to today's cameras, that they decide by theirself where to focus, to get everything pin sharp. But in the other hand, the focussing methods I use are that simple, that I would not really need a function like that :) Thank you so much for watching my friend and nice greetings from Austria, Christian
Hi Mami, oh yes, it feels bad when you come home and recognize, that most of the photos are blurry. I cross my fingers for you, that it will work for your next photo trip. You will see, distance focussing works most of the time, you just have to consider to open the aperture as much as needed. Thank you for watching my friend and nice greetings from Austria, Christian
Hi Jadolive, oh yes, such little helpers are really useful. On new lenses everything works already digital in most cases, but fortunately there exist apps for getting a dof table :) Thank you so much for watching, have a great day, Christian
Hi my friend, meanwhile I use auto focus most of the time, as it got already that accurate, that I can trust on it. I use manual focus just if the autofocus fails, for example if the light is too low. I hope this helps :) Thank you so much for watching, see you at my next one, Christian
Hi @nevvanclarke9225, it depends on what you want to achieve. If it is all about sharpness: hyper focal distance doesn't lead to the best possible sharpness: ruclips.net/video/etm733SpRmk/видео.html Nice greetings, Christian
Growing up in a very Grrman area of Minnesota I thought I was accustomed to a Germsn accent! WRONG! I had a terrible time trying to understand you. Which is shocking to me. So I will give it another go, which won't hurt. Maybe if I stop and start the video, understanding each word before moving on. Like, I thought you said 'photo stacking' but rather you were saying "focus stacking"! Maybe the ears are starting to go?!!! And in your pics of the grass, at f9 and f16, I had to really, really look hard for a while to see even the tiniest differences. So maybe the eyes are going too!!! But the differences at f9 and f16, I thought, were so minute!!! Do they really make a difference? To the general audience? Or only to teachers and judges? I try hard to get things right. But you are pointing out things I can't really even see, even after you call attention to it! As I usually only shoot landscapes I will have to go back and review my pics for the sharpness at various distances. My closest items are probably more fuzzy than yours, but you can certainly tell what the close items are! They just are not as sharp as yours! I also tend to use a very wide angle lens when I do BIG wide landscapes. So in those everything tends to be sharply in focus due to the uber short DOF. So, now, I will try using a prime lens, 85mm or 105mm, to see better, understand better, what you are saying here, with your suggestions! I shoot in the western US. And sometimes I shoot across a deep gorge or valley toward hills maybe 5 or 10+ km away, at sun rise or sun set. The valley is in deep shade, so not a lot to focus on except for the distant silhouettes, clouds, etc. But i will try! THANKS FOR YOUR EFFORTS TEACHING! Astral time lapse or lunar photography is something I do when far enough away from city lights. My Nikon prime lens are really great for that. Even on full moon nights I can do hand held when leaning against a building or tree. Maybe that is more of a monopod pic? But any info you have or want to share would be greatly appreciated as per astral, night time-lapse, eclipse, lightening strikes, etc, shooting! On my next trip out west I want to shoot Saguaro cactus against a starry night sky. With the moon and no moon! And some Death Valley desert pics. Death Valley is a truely septacular location to shoot pics. But dangerous as it can be very cold at night yet super hot during the day. And there is no water there, so you really need to be prepared! But the landscape there is humbling with its supreme beauty! Maybe you will come one day to shoot it! Thanks a bunch!
Hi Paul, first of all I really appreciate that you go on watching my videos although you do hard to understand me. Thank you therefore and I'm so sorry about that. To be honest, I've never heard before from my audience that this would be a big issue. My native language is German and my English is definitely far away from good. I'll do my best that you are able to understand me better in future. The difference between f9 and f16 is indeed marginal on the lens I have used. I guess, on a smaller screen and/or lower resolution it will be difficult to see a big difference in my video. But there is a difference. I used quite good lenses (Sony GM), where even f18 produces feasible results. But f8 or f9 is anyway sharper. When you use a low budget lens or when you have to crop in it is better to have a sharper image as source. When your closest elements are fuzzy, it could be that your DOF is not enough. A tiny bit of softness is usually not a problem, but it should anyway be sharp. Closing the aperture more (if possible without diffraction), using "hyper focal distance" or focus stacking are the techniques to get rid of that. The Death Valley is amazing. I've never been there, but my grandmother was and she told me a lot of adventurous stories from there in my youth ages. But this is already decades ago :) Maybe I will visit it one day, we will see. Nice greetings from Austria my friend, Christian
If the motive is close its more of 50%, before the focus punct and 50% behind the focus point. Also the lens can have a S -formed focal plain so we need the check that on our lenses. see How to make a Field Map of ANY lens! ruclips.net/video/0w3j5e4Xxtk/видео.html
Hi Thomas, that 1/3, 2/3 thing is also just a rule of thumb. Apps like Photopills calculate that more accurate, of course. Important is to take testshots out in the field to find out if the estimated depth of field is working. Especially the resolution of the camera sensor should be taken into account here. Thanks a lot for watching and nice greetings, Christian
Hi Thomas, that's a quite good question, thank you therefore :) I will make a video about that, as there are really a couple of things you can do here. But give me some time here, there are a lot of good ideas for tutorial videos in my pipeline and I also want to make the video as good as possible :) Nice greetings, Christian
Your diagram is not accurate. (2:19) You have the plane of focus central in the depth of field range, in the diagram. The 2•52 and the 5•06 metre spacing is equal , which makes no sense.
Hi @ThePurpleHarpoon, thank you for your attention, my friend! That's not meant as a diagram that is true to scale, to be honest. It is a screenshot from Photopills, which works very well to describe the properties, I find. But anyway, thank you for your note. I'm always grateful about feedback to improve my video content from every perspective. Thanks a lot for watching. Nice greetings, Christian
Hi @RamblingTog, at least not a simple one :) The way I focus most is good and works in most of the cases. There are just some exceptions to get the focus perfect as I have shown in the video. I also use hyperfocal distance when it is necessary. It really depends on the situation. Thanks a lot for watching, my friend. Nice greetings, Christian
Good Samstag morning, Christian!
Hi Lohi, a very good morning my friend - I hope the video was useful for you :)
Have a great weekend and nice greetings from Austria,
Christian
Wieder ein sehr interessantes Video, super!
Vielen Dank :)
Thanks Christian, really enjoyed this one
Hi my friend - thank you so much, really happy to hear, that you liked it :)
Nice greetings from Austria and enjoy your weekend,
Christian
this is one of the best explanation on RUclips if we talking about Photography
Hi fryktlos, thank you so much for your kind words, really means a lot :)
Nice greetings from Austria,
Christian
Man, i was already familiar with the aperture settings BUT you truly made me understand the full potentiel and correct use of this tool. Your clear explanation and the examples given opened my vision about how to properly use aperture, for that i can only give you a deep thank you from my heart.
Great job
Hi fisio, thank you so much for your kind feedback, my friend! So fantastic to hear that this video was useful for you.
See you in the next one 😉
Nice greetings,
Christian
Morgen Christian! Really enjoyed this week's video and would definitely ask you for a new one on focus stacking. See you! 😀
Hi Iñaki, thank you so much, really happy you enjoyed the video!
I think a focus stacking video could be interesting. There will come one, where I mention a new methode I've developed. But it is always important for me to make my videos as useful and interesting as possible, so please give me some time therefore. I've noted it on my "next possible videos" list :)
Enjoy your weekend and nice greetings,
Christian
Some things are worth watching more than once - and this absolutely is
Hi my friend, thank you so much - highly appreciated :)
Thank you for watching and nice greetings from Austria,
Christian
Simple and Clear. Best video on focusing on youtube.
Hi Abdullatif, thank you so much my friend - this means a lot :)
Thank you for watching and nice greetings from Austria,
Christian
Thank you for making this video and sharing your experiences and knowledge so enthusiastically. 🎥🎬👌📷👍🙏🍀
Hi my friend, to be honest I always fear to appear too enthusiastic in my videos :) But yeah, it is how it is - I really love landscape photography and sharing everything I know :)
Thank you so much for watching and have a great weekend,
Christian
Servus Christian, das ist wohl eines der "ewigen" Themen 🤔 je mehr Möglichkeiten vorgestellt werden, desto unsicherer wird die Fotografen Schar 😉 deshalb: volle Zustimmung zum distance focussing👍 und wenn man sich nicht sicher ist, halt noch eine Variante dazu. Und passt.
"Schärfe Ausblicke" wünscht ich dir
Klaus
Hallo Klaus, das seh ich ganz genauso: Nachdem jeder auf was anderes geschwört hat, hab ich jahrelang verschiedenste Fokusmethoden ausprobiert. Manchmal stellt sich dann das Einfachste als die ideale Lösung heraus, aber ich brauchte Jahre um mir das einzugestehen. Hyper Focal Distanz anzuwenden war irgendwie "cooler" :)
Ein super Wochenende wünsch ich dir,
Christian
always come back to this video just to refresh my memory. It's so helpful. Thanks.
Hi N'ahit, really nice to hear, that the video was useful for you :)
Thank you so much for watching, nice greetings from Austria,
Christian
The way you explain things, your calm tone of voice just makes it so much easier for people to understand, not complicated or confusing but simple and to the point 👍 Much appreciate the time you take to do these helpful and insightful videos for us all. Thanks mate! 👍
Hi Epeyce, thank you so much for your really kind words, my friend! I'm really happy to help out other photography interested people - so fantastic to get such positive feedback :)
Thank you so much for watching and nice greetings from Austria,
Christian
youre lighting is on point man
Hi Türk'ün, thank you so much my friend, much appreciated :)
Have a great day and nice greetings from Austria,
Christian
Ich finde es immer wieder toll, wie anschaulich und gut verständlich (insbesondere für mich als Laien) deine Erklärungen und Tipps sind! Auch deine Beispielbilder sind wie immer super schön und perfekt ausgesucht 👌🏼😍. Genieße dein Wochenende und lieben Gruß aus dem winterlichen München! 🙋🏼♀️
Hallo Chris, vielen lieben Dank für dein nettes Feedback. Das freut mich echt sehr, dass das Video hilfreich für dich war.
Ein schönes Wander- und Fotografiewochenende wünsch ich dir,
Christian
Ich kann überhaupt nicht verstehen warum 2 Leute "thumbs down" gegeben haben. Das Video war gut gedreht und ein wichtiges Thema. Wie immer "Vielen Dank".
Hallo Erich, vielen lieben Dank!
Also ehrlich gesagt, verstehe ich nicht, warum man überhaupt einen Daumen nach unten gibt bei einem Video, selber hab ich das noch nie gemacht. Aber offenbar machen das manche, wenn sie aus dem Video nichts Nützliches entnehmen können oder evtl. auch einfach nicht zu Ende schauen.
Was ich inzwischen bemerkt habe ist, dass es nicht nur auf hilfreiche Tips ankommt bei einem RUclips-Video, sondern auch wie interessant man das Video aufbaut. Ich gebe mir das wirklich größte Mühe, aber ich denke, man wird da vielleicht auch mit den ganz Großen verglichen, die das schon jahrelang machen und schon ganz anders reden können. Aber es ist noch kein Meister vom Himmel gefallen - es ist wie in der Fotografie: Üben, üben, üben - besser werden, besser werden, besser werden :-)
Umso mehr freue ich mich dann aber über jedes einzelne Kommentar, besonders wenn die dann so nett sind wie deine. Denn es steckt wirklich ein großer Aufwand hinter jedem einzelnen Video und ich verdiene damit auch nichts, die Vergütung aus der Werbung reicht nicht mal für die Spritkosten. Positives Feedback ist die beste Gage die ich bekommen kann :)
Vielen Dank daher nochmals, Erich - das freut mich echt sehr!
Ein super Wochenende wünsch ich dir,
Christian
People who do a 'thumbs down' are usually people who are not able to make a good informative video themselves. And that frustration manifests itself in a false negativity that leads to nothing. Instead of appreciating that there are people who want to share knowledge, these people often like to remain anonymous. And this video is well made and thankfully appreciated by many. 😉
Very good and clear explanation. As another guy also is writing, you are are a born presenter, thank you so much for your explanation.
Hi Bilgi, thank you so much for your kind words my friend, highly appreciated :)
Thank you for watching and nice greetings from Austria,
Christian
amazing video
Thanks a lot, Alberto. Really fantastic to hear, that you liked it :)
Nice greetings,
Christian
Once again, great. thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Hi Carl, it is really so fantastic to read when a video was useful. So, thank you therefore :)
Nice greetings from Austria,
Christian
and yet another great video from you, thanks, I wish I had more time to view more of them in full and on a regular basis. One little extra thing would make it a masterclass tutorial: settings made showed next to each photo. Sometimes you mention the aperture, yet a look at full data, pause, think over, digest and continue watching - would be 100/100.
Hi Robert, thanks a lot for your kind words and also for your suggestions for improvement. Feedback like that is really, really important to me! I will think about that in future, to add additional information to images when that is relevant to the topic 😊
Nice greetings from the mountains,
Christian
@@christian.irmler To paraphrase my thinking - when I have an photography album or a book on a particular topic, which goal is to educate in the art of photography, examples without aperture/speed/iso values (and optional additional things like a filter etc.) make such a book 50% redundant. A superb print quality won't make up for this. BTW - I loved the fact that you placed focus points on each photo. I literally paused the video and digested the content thinking hmmm... ok, I get it, I agree, disagree. Or even I was playing in my mind - "oh, in this photo it would be here!" (and I missed often :))
Awesome 👍
Hi Rahul, thank you so much, my friend :)
Nice greetings,
Christian
Subscribed. I am new to Camera world and this has made my life easy. Thank you Dude.
Hi Hakan, a warm welcome to my channel! Really nice to hear, that the video was useful for you :)
Thank you so much for watching, nice greetings from Austria,
Christian
what a great presentation - well informed, well delivered and full of useful stuff! Well done Christian and thank you for posting
Hi Ismail, thank you so much for your positive feedback, my friend. Really nice to hear, that the video was useful for you :)
Thank you for watching and nice greetings from Austria,
Christian
Fantastic thank you Christian
Hi Nick, I thank YOU for watching :)
Nice greetings from Austria,
Christian
This was a really great and logical approach to something I have been trying to solve. Thank you.
Hi Roy, it's so fantastic to hear that the video was useful, my friend!
Thanks a lot for watching and nice greetings from Austria,
Christian
Your da best teacher blessed you always.
Thank you so much, Martin. This means a lot :)
Nice greetings,
Christian
This is certainly one of the best photography channels out there. Love the simplistic explainations :D
Hi Dayı, thank you so much my friend, this really means a lot and this motivates to produce more videos like that :)
Thank you so much for watching and nice greetings from Austria,
Christian
Thank you Christian, very informative video. I would be really interested in focus stacking video as well
Hi Sergey, thank you my friend! Yes, I think a video about mastering focus stacking could be useful. But please give me some time therefor, I want to make it as interesting as possible :)
Have a great day and nice greetings from Austria,
Christian
Great info thank you started to watch yoir videos very happy.Love your passion its contagiouse.
Hi Herling, thank you so much for your kind words, I really appreciate! A warm welcome to my channel, I really hope, that you also like all my other videos ;)
Have a great day and nice greetings from Austria,
Christian
I commend you for constantly giving and feeding us great and useful information too improve our photography without shoving in our faces (buy this and buy that) as so many of your contemporary U-Tube bloggers do. Thank you .... Needed too be said. Stay healthy and safe.
Hi Ferid, thank you so much for your kind words, my friend - means a lot! I think there is generally nothing bad with recommending things to buy - there are lots of useful helpers and tools. But I would never make a video with the main interest of just selling anything. My main interest will always be to help out photography interested people. I will only suggest tools, if they are really useful and I'm totally convinced by myself. But the truth is: The most impact on photography is not by gear, it is much more composition :)
Thank you for watching and nice greetings from Austria,
Christian
Just discovered your channel. I love your presentation, I think the most enjoyable thing to me is how you explain your thought process! You communicate in a way that I feel would appeal to a broad range of experience levels. Nice job! Can’t wait to binge on your channel 😅
Hi Tracy, first of all, welcome to my channel. Fantastic to have you here :)
Thank you so much for your positive feedback and your kind words. This really means a lot!
Have a great weekend, see you,
Christian
Great video thank you, my question is wich focus mode we should use?
Hi @sk-hd4ys, thank you so much, my friend 😊
I prefer to use a small focus point, so that I can decide by myself exactly where to focus.
But there are different focusing techniques I use to get a better result. That's maybe stuff for a new video. We will see 😉
Nice greetings,
Christian
Thanks alot Christian, very detailed video explained in the simplest best way possible. Will surely try out your method when i am out in the fields. 👏🏽👏🏽🙌🏽👍
Hi my friend, really nice to hear, that the video was useful for you. I wish you the best conditions when you'll try out my mentioned focussing methods, to get out some outstanding photographs ;)
Thank you so much for watching, nice greetings from Austria,
Christian
Good info Christian, you explained that really well. I loved the images you used as examples. It's always interesting to see how other photographers do their work. Thanks for sharing the video, enjoyed watching 👍🙏
Hi Adrian, thank you so much buddy! I see it like you. Everyone prefers his own methods and has reasons therefore. It's also always interesting for me to have a look what others do :)
Thank you for watching and enjoy your weekend,
Christian
Very good overview Christian. One comment on focus stacking. Photographers should be aware of focus breathing as if it is excessive it will make blending a very tricky exercise.
Hi Thanons, thank you my friend! Yes, there are a couple of things to be considered for focus stacking, but the biggest issue for me always was that the foreground gets too sharp :)
But I found also a way to get rid of that. Will come in an own video in some time.
Thank you so much for watching and enjoy your weekend,
Christian
Great video! You provided excellent detail and reasoning with your methods. I've never really nailed down the best focusing methods for me and I will admit, I've been mostly "guessing" at the right spot for many years. Thankfully with APS-C you have some wiggle room with DoF, and as long as you keep apertures at f/8 or f/11, and don't focus on something too close to the lens, many shots will be in decent focus. The challenges are, mastering getting everything/almost everything in focus, and knowing when you don't _need_ to get everything in focus. I really liked your reasoning about mountain layers and the trees of the forest not being the main characters, but instead support the story of the photo. Thank you very much for your insights, Christian!
Hi @TechnicallyRugged, thank you so much for your kind comment, my friend. I'm so happy that the video was useful for you :)
Nice greetings from Austria,
Christian
Very well explained! If your shooting wide angle using a 20mm lens or wider, have you ever heard of a method where you determine the distance from the nearest subject in your foreground you want sharp to your camera and then double that distance and that is your Hyperfocal Distance and where you focus. I use this method most of the time and it works extremely well.
Hi my friend, yes I also use the hyper focal distance method, as mentioned in the video - but only if distance focussing doesn't lead into the wished result, as hyper focal distance unfortunately doesn't lead into the best possible sharpness for me.
Thank you so much for watching and nice greetings from Austria,
Christian
Fabulously helpful video as always 👏 👏 being quite inexperienced at landscape photography, I was wondering 🤔 once you have chosen your focus spot, is it possible to select manual focus to check overall focus, I have a Sony camera which has a focus peaking colour which to my thoughts should show up in all areas that are in focus. Am I correct in thinking this or like much in photography, not much is as straightforward as it seems 😅🤣 thanks for your wonderful videos 🙏😊
Hi Thomas, yes, I do that like you said: I decide for a focus point and then I don't change it anymore. Be careful with focus peaking, it is not a 100% thing. I use auto focus most of the time, as it works amazingly meanwhile :)
Thanks a lot for watching, my friend!
Nice greetings,
Christian
@@christian.irmler thanks very much for your feedback Christian 😊 it’s a treat to watch your videos and the information you pass on is invaluable to people like myself 🙏😊
Great tips on focusing Christian! very useful! It's always a challenge to focus properly in the field since you always face different compositions and conditions.
Hi Bulent, to be honest: Before I used distance focussing, there was always the risk to come home with blurry photos, what sometimes happened, especially on time critical situations like the light comes in or the cloud moved there where I need it. But since I use distance focussing, I got never out of focus images again - that already for years.
Great to hear, that the video was useful for you :)
Nice greetings,
Christian
This is a good tutorial on the basics of focus for landscape. One thing: you have "Advertisement" showing on the upper right corner of the video because you gave it that category. You're not advertising anything. I suggest you change the category to "education". Thanks!
Hi John, thank you so much my friend! I don't categorize my videos as advertisement, this is a kind of watermark I integrate already when I cut my videos - on purpose. The thing is: The laws here in the EU are that crazy, that whenever I say or show any brand in a video, I would need to mention, that this is advertisement or I could also say that it where not - but I have to declare. If I forget one time, I could get into law problems. And you know, there are so many brands you see in a landscape photography channel, it is not possible to avoid. I don't get payed therefor, I just want to stay safe. Lots of RUclipsrs in Germany do exactly the same. The advice of my lawner was, also to declare my videos as advertisement videos, so I'm totally safe. This gives me the freedom to talk about brands and not to think about if there is anywhere the one or other logo to see in my videos. Finally it's really funny: Whenever you watch my videos, you watch advertisment tv :)
Have a great day my friend and nice greetings from Austria,
Christian
@@christian.irmler thanks for clarifying! I guess if I ever get monetized, these are things I have to think about.
RUclips Studio in the US has a box to check if I include sponsored content; then a disclaimer will appear at the beginning of the video. I talk about what specific gear I'm using all the time. I suppose I should mention it's all stuff I bought and paid for myself and I'm not shilling for anyone.
@@JohnDrummondPhoto We also have this checkbox here in Europe, but things are more complicated here in EU :)
Here this gets already a problem if you are not monetized. It is law, that you have to clarify advertisement, independend if you are paid therefor or not. Showing or talking about any brands is seen as advertisment. If you don't declare it, it could cost thousands. So yeah, this is why I have an advertisement channel :-)
Not sure how things are in US, but I would generally suggest to take advice at a lawner. This costs a bit of money, but will protect to loose a lot of more money. Crazy how things are - but you know: Safety first :)
I got an idea. Grab the focus ring and shoot continuously as you focus one full rotation. Then pick one from the 100 photos!
Hi Pow Pow, thank you for your interesting thoughts, my friend! I just fear, it would not work, due to some problems: First of all we have to consider that focussing is a kind of "micro-zooming". So whenever you turn the focus ring, also the zoom changes slightly.
This is why you would change the focus while exposing, which leads to blurry photos. This technique is done in ICM photography with the zoom ring instead of the focus ring and that leads to nice, blurry effects (wished in that case). The second problem is that you have to touch your camera while exposing, which also leads to blurry photos, when the exposure time is not super fast (which is not all too often in landscape photography). And then you would also run into a problem turning the focus ring in the right speed. What if the exposure takes multiple seconds? And what if you want to exposure bracket simultaniously?
But I like your idea. Modern cameras offer automatic focus stacking and do exactly what you have described :) Just during exposing the focus is not changed. They use several focus points, instead. Afterwards you just have to stack the images. But focus stacking does not always work, especially when there are moving elements.
The best way is really to learn how and where to focus. Handling focus is not difficult, actually. Maybe a little bit of practice in the beginning. But it's easy to come in.
Thanks a lot for watching and nice greetings,
Christian
You speak about 'waiting' for conditions to change.
I guess I'm fairly impatient! I find waiting difficult---- I am missing other pics, yet unfound!
But what are you talking about when you talk about waiting for conditions to improve? A few minutes? Hours? All day? Days? Weeks? What?
Being impatient it is difficult for me to sit and wait! I'm not sure I want to wait too long for Mr Grizzlie Bear to come find me! Or Mr Mountain Lion, either. Mr Turtle I can outrun, no problem. And don't forget what Mr Wolf did in Little Red Riding Hood! Sitting, waiting, I loose focus on my surroundings and Mr Grizzly might come eat me for his lunch! By moving I am scanning, looking, and looking, and looking. Listening, too.
Sitting for any length of time makes me feel vulnerable to wild animals, rattle snakes, scorpions, etc. Things you probably don't have to think about. Except for wild boars??? But I will do it if you say so! 99% of the time I'm alone, so safety is on me! And me, alone! (And Yes, I have bear spray! And a whistle! And usually an air horn! But no gun! And phones do not work in 97% of those western locations!)
So again, when you talk about waiting what kind of time are you waiting?
An average wait time, for you, is what, approximately? How long, on average?
Your longest wait time was what?
And did waiting pay off for you? Always? Or only sometimes? Just in case I find myself in 'more civilized' country and can wait!
Thanks in advance, should you reply!
Hi Paul, it is really different how long I wait for the right conditions, after I've gone into setup. Usually it is not all too long. Maybe some minutes or an hour. When I know already in front, that it will take some hours to get my prefered conditions, I often explore other places and return later. Or I go home and return some weeks, months or years later :) Sometimes I also wait for hours in setup, but this is not all too often.
We don't have all too many dangerous animals here in Austria, but it can happen that we meet dangerous wildlife when we are out in nature, of course. We can't totally avoid that. Important is to know about how to behave when you meet one. I can suggest to inform about that for all the dangerous animals that live in the area you want to visit. Usually they are shy and when they hear noise they don't come closer. Taking a photography friend with you is a good idea. When animals hear humans talking, they usually stay away :)
Have a great day and nice greetings,
Christian
Thank you.
Really fantastic to have you here, my friend :)
See you in my next one,
Christian
@@christian.irmler Thank You.
OMG! I feel SO identified about the hyper focal issue of not being “smart enough” to use it 😂 One question though: why switching off the camera/lens stabilisation? Thanks!!!
Hi efe, it always takes a bit of time and a couple of testshots to find the hyper focal distance, this is normal :)
Stabilisation always leads into a tiny bit of micro shakes, because the sensor is moved through a kind of "gimbal". So when you don't need to stabilize, it is better to turn it off. But there are exceptions where it is better to turn it on. I think, this could be an interesting topic for an own video. I'll put it on my wish list of videos - will come in future :)
Thank you so much for watching, nice greetings from Austria,
Christian
Thank you so much, Christian for sharing this nice tip. I'll try it out. I'd like to ask you if this tip only works with wide lenses or if it works with telephoto lenses as well. Thank you.
Hi Paulo, all mentioned focussing methods work with each focal length. The only thing you have to consider is, that the depth of field of a longer lens is generally shallower than from a wide lens. Whenever a common focussing methode doesn't work, because elements are too close, I go over to focus stacking. I got already some questions about focus stacking, there will come an own video about that in some time. But also with longer lenses, I use distance focussing most of the time.
Thank you so much for watching, nice greetings from Austria,
Christian
@@christian.irmler thanks for your kindness. I'll appreciate the video about focus stacking. Longing for that. Best regards from Brazil.
New subscriber here. Really enjoying your content. This video is something I’ve been trying to figure out for a long time. One of my problems is that I’m terrible at estimating distances so when I’m shooting stuff like waterfalls or woodlands, I waste time trying to estimate what the hyper focal distance is and I might lose the light or some other issue pops up. Any suggestions on how to get a quick but accurate measurement? Thanks!
Hi Gary, welcome to the channel, fantastic to have you here :) Oh yes, estimating distances is indeed difficult. I took a laser distance meter with me for a while to find out the perfect hyper focal distance, but as mentioned in the video, I came away from hyper focal distance as it doesn't lead to the best possible sharpness. Today I use it just in very specific situations. When I need hyper focal distance today, I test different focus points by making test shots. And ultimately, I pick out that one that worked best. I hope this helps :)
Nice greetings and see you in the next video,
Christian
I miss the various focus helpers like half circle or diamond designs for focusing wish they could do it electronically on cameras today.
Hi Muhamme, you are totally right, it were useful if cameras would include more helpers. Generally it were already possible to include a function to today's cameras, that they decide by theirself where to focus, to get everything pin sharp. But in the other hand, the focussing methods I use are that simple, that I would not really need a function like that :)
Thank you so much for watching my friend and nice greetings from Austria,
Christian
Man I wish I had seen this video before my trip to Japan last May. Got a lot of blurry backgrounds :(
Hi Mami, oh yes, it feels bad when you come home and recognize, that most of the photos are blurry. I cross my fingers for you, that it will work for your next photo trip. You will see, distance focussing works most of the time, you just have to consider to open the aperture as much as needed.
Thank you for watching my friend and nice greetings from Austria,
Christian
I'm old enough that a lot of my lenses have a hyperfocal distance calculator right on the focus ring. Progress...
Hi Jadolive, oh yes, such little helpers are really useful. On new lenses everything works already digital in most cases, but fortunately there exist apps for getting a dof table :)
Thank you so much for watching, have a great day,
Christian
Did u use manual focus or Manual Focus ?
Hi my friend, meanwhile I use auto focus most of the time, as it got already that accurate, that I can trust on it. I use manual focus just if the autofocus fails, for example if the light is too low. I hope this helps :)
Thank you so much for watching, see you at my next one,
Christian
Hyper focal for wide angle
Hi @nevvanclarke9225, it depends on what you want to achieve. If it is all about sharpness: hyper focal distance doesn't lead to the best possible sharpness: ruclips.net/video/etm733SpRmk/видео.html
Nice greetings,
Christian
Growing up in a very Grrman area of Minnesota I thought I was accustomed to a Germsn accent! WRONG!
I had a terrible time trying to understand you. Which is shocking to me.
So I will give it another go, which won't hurt. Maybe if I stop and start the video, understanding each word before moving on. Like, I thought you said 'photo stacking' but rather you were saying "focus stacking"! Maybe the ears are starting to go?!!! And in your pics of the grass, at f9 and f16, I had to really, really look hard for a while to see even the tiniest differences. So maybe the eyes are going too!!!
But the differences at f9 and f16, I thought, were so minute!!! Do they really make a difference? To the general audience? Or only to teachers and judges?
I try hard to get things right. But you are pointing out things I can't really even see, even after you call attention to it!
As I usually only shoot landscapes I will have to go back and review my pics for the sharpness at various distances.
My closest items are probably more fuzzy than yours, but you can certainly tell what the close items are! They just are not as sharp as yours!
I also tend to use a very wide angle lens when I do BIG wide landscapes. So in those everything tends to be sharply in focus due to the uber short DOF.
So, now, I will try using a prime lens, 85mm or 105mm, to see better, understand better, what you are saying here, with your suggestions!
I shoot in the western US. And sometimes I shoot across a deep gorge or valley toward hills maybe 5 or 10+ km away, at sun rise or sun set. The valley is in deep shade, so not a lot to focus on except for the distant silhouettes, clouds, etc. But i will try! THANKS FOR YOUR EFFORTS TEACHING!
Astral time lapse or lunar photography is something I do when far enough away from city lights. My Nikon prime lens are really great for that. Even on full moon nights I can do hand held when leaning against a building or tree. Maybe that is more of a monopod pic? But any info you have or want to share would be greatly appreciated as per astral, night time-lapse, eclipse, lightening strikes, etc, shooting!
On my next trip out west I want to shoot Saguaro cactus against a starry night sky. With the moon and no moon! And some Death Valley desert pics. Death Valley is a truely septacular location to shoot pics. But dangerous as it can be very cold at night yet super hot during the day. And there is no water there, so you really need to be prepared! But the landscape there is humbling with its supreme beauty! Maybe you will come one day to shoot it!
Thanks a bunch!
Hi Paul, first of all I really appreciate that you go on watching my videos although you do hard to understand me. Thank you therefore and I'm so sorry about that. To be honest, I've never heard before from my audience that this would be a big issue. My native language is German and my English is definitely far away from good. I'll do my best that you are able to understand me better in future.
The difference between f9 and f16 is indeed marginal on the lens I have used. I guess, on a smaller screen and/or lower resolution it will be difficult to see a big difference in my video. But there is a difference.
I used quite good lenses (Sony GM), where even f18 produces feasible results. But f8 or f9 is anyway sharper. When you use a low budget lens or when you have to crop in it is better to have a sharper image as source.
When your closest elements are fuzzy, it could be that your DOF is not enough. A tiny bit of softness is usually not a problem, but it should anyway be sharp. Closing the aperture more (if possible without diffraction), using "hyper focal distance" or focus stacking are the techniques to get rid of that.
The Death Valley is amazing. I've never been there, but my grandmother was and she told me a lot of adventurous stories from there in my youth ages. But this is already decades ago :) Maybe I will visit it one day, we will see.
Nice greetings from Austria my friend,
Christian
If the motive is close its more of 50%, before the focus punct and 50% behind the focus point. Also the lens can have a S -formed focal plain so we need the check that on our lenses. see How to make a Field Map of ANY lens! ruclips.net/video/0w3j5e4Xxtk/видео.html
Hi Thomas, that 1/3, 2/3 thing is also just a rule of thumb. Apps like Photopills calculate that more accurate, of course. Important is to take testshots out in the field to find out if the estimated depth of field is working. Especially the resolution of the camera sensor should be taken into account here.
Thanks a lot for watching and nice greetings,
Christian
@@christian.irmler That is a new problem for me I used to be able to use F16 but now I have 45 Mpix so I need to investigate If I can use F11 or F10
How to make a ladscape photo intresting?
Hi Thomas, that's a quite good question, thank you therefore :) I will make a video about that, as there are really a couple of things you can do here. But give me some time here, there are a lot of good ideas for tutorial videos in my pipeline and I also want to make the video as good as possible :)
Nice greetings,
Christian
@@christian.irmler Looking forward to it. I'm into "arty" woodland photo, no mountains were I live, the closest is 400 km.
Your diagram is not accurate. (2:19)
You have the plane of focus central in the depth of field range, in the diagram.
The 2•52 and the 5•06 metre spacing is equal , which makes no sense.
Hi @ThePurpleHarpoon, thank you for your attention, my friend! That's not meant as a diagram that is true to scale, to be honest. It is a screenshot from Photopills, which works very well to describe the properties, I find.
But anyway, thank you for your note. I'm always grateful about feedback to improve my video content from every perspective.
Thanks a lot for watching. Nice greetings,
Christian
So, in short there's no set rule
Hi @RamblingTog, at least not a simple one :) The way I focus most is good and works in most of the cases. There are just some exceptions to get the focus perfect as I have shown in the video. I also use hyperfocal distance when it is necessary. It really depends on the situation.
Thanks a lot for watching, my friend. Nice greetings,
Christian