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You have answered the question I could never get satisfactorily answered. I would love to incorporate planes with my power tools but never knew where to start. Planing a board smooth rather than sanding appeals to me and I’m sure my lungs will appreciate it as well. I have been making do with a lower quality block plane and when I have it working correctly it is a joy to use but when it is out of sync it frustrates me to no end. User error has to take some of the responsibility but I can also recognize when it does not maintain the setting for very long. Back to basics for me I suppose.
If you check, David Charlesworth introduced the 5 1/2 over 20 years ago as his "super smoother" he just didn't make a lot of you tube videos. As an aside, I refuse to buy woodcraft planes as they are Chinese copies of Lie-Nielsen.
@@michaelfling7786 - LOL! Both Lie-Nielsen and Woodcraft are copies of Stanley's Bedrock line of planes. And David Charlesworth was definitely not the first one to use the 5-1/2, which has been around for 150 years, as a smoother... I always find it curious why some folks think they first place THEY happened to see something must be the original source or the owner of that particular idea.
In approximately 8 minutes, you upped every beginning woodworkers game. Great video. Maybe more on how to start using a plane for those of us who never had?
I liked how you paid respect and homage to Paul Sellers, one of the modern greats IMO. I also follow the Cosman methods. But doesn’t mean I don’t learn from Sellers, Matt Estlea (UK), Jonathan Katz-Moses and last, but by no means the least, you James. You are all great in my book!
@@devonwainstein9188 not sure where all the negativity is coming from here about Katz-Moses either. Everyone makes and has made mistakes in life. Are you perfect? I sure ain’t. Sounds like JKM has turned his life around then, so good for him. Sure makes some nice stuff, takes the time out to show people who have less knowledge than he does how to do things. Is your mindset really in the right place, trying to tear down people? Pretty easy to blast them, as they are somewhat public figures, but I’m sure you wouldn’t even stand up to your own style of scrutiny if you were in their same position.
Long time power guy who, with the extra time afforded by retirement, is doing more with hand tools. I have a nice block plane I bought new; a 4 that was my grandpa’s and a 5 1/2 I rescued from a thrift shop. I believe the 4 is over 100 years old and the big plane is 70-80. After a lot of videos by the 3 guys mentioned here, all three are a pleasure to use.
It would be a real challenge to find a video that has as much value as these 7 minutes! No fluff, just solid, clear, practical and immediately useful info. Every woodworker should be paying close attention! Also appreciate your respectful and professional attitude towards others like Paul Sellers and Rob Cosman. You are an expert in the field, an endless source of encouragement and inspiration, and... a Gentleman. IOW a rare person!
May I suggest a no. 5 hand plane is better than a 5 1/2, why for most people A 5 1/2 is heavy and bulky to handle, a a no.5 is sleek and light. And if you are trying to do some fine work, light and sleek works. cheers from Tasmania like you video .
It’s interesting to hear a variety of opinions on this topic. Most if not all individuals are influenced by very capable individuals like Sellers and Cosman. IMHO, a woodworker has to buy what is required for a particular project and of course what he or she can afford. As a power tool fan from the New Yankee Workshop days, I ended up with a collection of “one of everything “ as Norm promoted power tools. The same is with individuals like Cosman who has now progressed into a tool salesman to supplement his wood working educational outlet. He is probably the current leader in this field and supports a worthy cause. Sellers on the other hand is an excellent and highly skilled teacher of hand tools. What I don’t support in the former is the promotion of Chinese made tools like the WoodRiver line and would opt for Veritas. Lie Neilson’s tool are excellent (Rob Cosman was a LN rep. at the travelling shows) but are extremely expensive.
When I started my apprenticeship as a site carpenter in England 38 years ago, I was told that I would only ever need 2 planes. A block plane and a 5 1/2. I bought a second hand Record SS 5 1/2 (don't think they are available in USA but in my opinion better than Stanley) still have them both.
I too have a Record 5 1/2, one I restored from the fifties. Its my go-to plane for 95% of work. I had to remake the handle, but the metal parts were in good nick when I got it off ebay for peanuts. I had a good vintage Record no.4 as well, but gave that away to one of my sons as I never used it. The only #4 left in my workshop is a chinese cheapo Silverline, set up as a scrub plane for rough surfacing panels too big for my planer/thicknesser. Love the 5 1/2 for the easier straightness you can achieve when dressing panel edges, and the wider flat area when cleaning the faces of panels.
This was my experience with a Stanley SB4, I purchased 25 years ago. Hated it and decided that hand planes were imperfect tools from a bygone era. Until I saw Cosman’s video on the 5 1/2 and bought one. Over the course of the past 4 years, my whole workflow has shifted from power to hybrid and now mostly hand tools. Since I’m just a hobbyist, this works great for me.
One of the most useful planes I have is a No.3 from Clifton. Heavy, accurate and very well made. Compares with the best on the market. And made in the UK. I gave up buying cheap and Chinese.
You are right on the money that the block plane should be the first plane for a power tool woodworker. When I left the workshop to become a site carpenter the first plane that I acquired was a block plane. A bench plane is on very little use without a bench. The second was a bullnose plane which is very useful for tweaking rebates and close into the corners. My third and specific to my specialism of sash window renovations was a side rebate plane. Hand planes offer an advantage over machines for jointing in that there is no snipe when used correctly. On one occassion when I wanted to lay flooring through a lounge I wanted to produce a long straight edge to act as a datum. This I did with several pieces of ply clamped together and planed like a rubbed joint testing as I went to ensure that they were absolutely true. When using a jack plane I prefer wooden jack planes as they are lighter and with a beeswaxed sole slip like greased eels reducing effort for longer jobs.
I inherited a #2 block and #5 1/2 plane, but never used them because I didn’t understand them. I finally sharpened the blades, figured out the bevel up/bevel down on the 5 1/2 plane and now I love using both of them! The #2 plane is my usual go to hand plane, I can get paper thin shavings all the time. I bought a $12 rusted junk #4 from an antique store, restored it, and now I love using it too. I’m a power tool first guy but hand planes are awesome when you finally learn to work with them and not force them.
I originally bought a #4 smoother after watching a few Paul Sellers videos. Used it for a while and worked well. Then I saw Rob Cosman’s videos and his recommendation for a 5 1/2”. I haven’t touched the 4 since. I’m going to get a block plane now.
I wholeheartedly agree with buying a new premium plane rather than restoring an old one. I would add that all the materials (e.g. sand paper) needed to restore a plane can be very expensive, and you end up reducing a lot of the “savings.” I learned this the hard way. I did a lot of research on new hand planes, and here’s what I ended up buying in this order: 1. Block plane - Lie-Nielsen No. 102 low angle 2. Jack plane - Veritas low angle with two irons; 25 and 38 degree bevels 3. Smoother - Lie-Nielsen No. 4 in bronze The Veritas excels on a shooting board. Also, with the 38-degree iron it both smooths and flattens well. The Lie-Nielsen No. 4 is a beauty to behold and provides an unparalleled psychological boost.
I have a Lie Nielsen 62 and the Woodriver block plane you showed in this video. They are my first and only hand planes and I love them both. I can quickly, cleanly and quietly perform tasks that used to require a jointer, tablesaw or router. There is something extremely satisfying about cutting those beautiful thin curls.
I just watched this video again. Horses for courses. I’ve progressed from being a hand tool woodworker when young and poor to gradually buying and preferring power tools. I have slowly acquired hand tools also. I have three Stanley number 4s. They are what the shops sell and the most numerous on eBay. I do use them with different blade settings. They are really not as appropriate as a number 5 or five and a half. I was given a Stanley 2 and it works well for block plane situations. When there are noise considerations I use my Qiangsheng rebating block plane frequently. Regarding a shooting board. I think it is too difficult for a beginner. Better to use sandpaper on a two by two or similar. I use an edge sander for squaring and trimming ends. You never have enough tools hand or power. Working freehand for most is never going to be as accurate as power tools but it sure is satisfying if it’s accurate enough.
I just stumbled onto this right after purchasing a No 5 1/2. Many complain about weight but being a young athletic guy I love it and prefer it over all my other places. For the exact reasons why you said in the video
thanks for your video. I have to agree about using the hand planes as a hybrid woodworking. But I really love my Lie Nielsen hand planes they are top notch I think.
I have a 5-1/2 Wood River plane and it's excellent not only as a feature of its quality but also because the 5-1/2 is an excellent all round plane. Its heft enable it to be handled with confidence as it's not 'flighty' and yet its light enough to be used with ease.
Amen, Stump, and as nice as 5-1/2s are, they're kind of scarce and expensive on the used market. #6s however, are plentiful and cheap. Millions of carpenters lugged them to the job site for generations to have many of the same attributes you've mentioned for the 5-1/2 plus they're a little better suited to jointing. At tool swap meets you ought to be able to get a battered and maybe rusted #6 with rosewood handles and no casting breaks or boogered oddball threads pretty quickly for about the same money as a #4. I happened into the pieces to put together a 606 Bedrock, put a premium blade in it and am tuning it for use in a shooting board. Pretty snoot, huh?
Another thing you can do if it's going to be a user, cut down the back end of an old #6 for lighter weight. You get the same width iron as the new 5 1/2s for a lot less outlay
My main plane is a no. 5. I also have a no.4, but rarely reach for it. I also have a block plane which really comes in handy. In short, I agree with you. After watching this... if I were to go back in time, I might have opted for the 5 1/2 for my main plane. But I love my no. 5. Perfect for 99% of my planing needs
Between this video and Cosman's video, it looks like I'll be saving my pennies for a block plane and a 5 1/2. Thanks so much for the info. Hand planes have been a confusing aspect of woodworking for me, and videos like this have helped a lot.
I own a large number of planes and use them regularly. I agree whole heartedly with the block plane, mine is a low profile 62 and works well with end grain. my go to on first pass is usually the 5½, after that it's what ever makes the best joint or finish. all of my lumber is bought unsurfaced, best price and greatest feeling of accomplishment. People have to wait a bit longer for the finished product but once in hand they do not complain. like others have said, thanks for giving Paul Sellers quiet respect. I've learned a great deal from him as well as that Hamilton guy on a different channel.
I think that's a good video. Thank you. I had a brief comment exchange with Rob Cosman after mentioning that No.6 planes are much like 5 1/2 planes - but longer - if that helped anyone, and that I had one and I really like it. It's great. 18 inches of goodness. Rob is a good guy and mentioned a No.6 is what he'd pick if he could not get a 5 1/5. If I can add a tip ... if you are getting into woodworking, about the time you get a plane or chisels is a great time to learn how to sharpen them. I use diamond plates, and there is a cost - but whatever system you choose, you do need these tools to be sharp to use them properly. There is no shame in a gig, and there is no shame in cutting panels of leather out of dumped leather sofas to make a strop. Sharpening gets easier and quicker the more practice you have.
I was going to ask about the #6. They're easier to find than a 5-1/2. Esp. if you get an older one (& then you'd need to tune it). Before I had my #7, I used a #6 for the shooting board. And IMO every woodworker will find a shooting board to be useful.
@@TomBuskey Yeah. Much easier - and cheaper. I used eBay. ebay is weird. Sometimes things go for more than you expect. Other times for less. I think patience and some careful shopping can get someone a good plane for about the same price as a not good one. Again, Paul Sellers mention: his plane restoration videos are excellent. I watched them before I bought and had a really good idea of what I probably needed to do with the planes I was getting. Really enjoyable restoration projects. A no.7? I was tempted a while back. Never happened, though. I think a No.6, No.4 and low angle block plane will probably do me - but I do need a shooting board at some point.
My only disagreement with you is your use of woodriver, premium and sharp out of the box in the same sentance. I have a WR 6, 4 and black plane. I just bought the 72 today at their sale. None of the blades were sharp enough to use or if the box on any of those planes. I've also got about 6 additional blades for them. They all needed to be flattened and sharpened before use. You don't have this problem with Veritas or LN. I don't have a 5 1/2 but I do have a #6. I think it's better than a 5 1/2.
Hello, I rarely comment on videos posted on the internet. I must say that your advice has always been extremely useful and would like to take the opportunity to thank you for all the work you put on this channel. This video about hand planes was just what I needed to try out more hand tools. I was definitely hesitant to start buying a whole bunch of hand planes due to the wide variety of tools available. Will try the 5 1/2 and the block plane. Many many thanks for your work. Kindest regards, David Lesage, Montreal, Québec, Canada
I have a ton of planes now. Most refurbished antiques. Agree the block plane is the best place for a power tool worker to start. I have a 5 1/2, but I find my go to plane for most things is a LN low angle jack. Easily just a personal preference thing. I hate sanding, so I do use a #4 a lot as well. I'm fact, most of my plane purchase have been motivated by using a sander less. Straight down to the spoke shaves and cabinet scrapers.
I always use hand tools to clean up power tool marks. Usually it's a few strokes of a No5 or No 7 low angle veritas, but maybe I should give this 5 1/2 a try. The No 4 is the best trade off weight wise (I have like 8 of them LOL). Though it's my 2 cents that it's not really a tool that you can easily learn on. The smaller front edge reference, or how you've tuned your blades really makes the tool take on very different characteristics. I personally really dislike the block plane because I have tiny stubby hands (well relatively). It's always my preference to use a No 3 in its place. I find the narrower and taller Veritas DX series block plane work well for my hands, but I am always banging my finger into something. Oh well, always one more thing to complain about I suppose. Having a larger router plane really helps with some depth related stuff. A small plough plane is great for quick jobs to make dados and grooves. In fact, a plough plane is often faster than setting up a table saw or a router. The combination version is IMO not worth the setup effort and the weight. In the end, the more the merrier, though I find these two are definitely worth having for most people as accessories planes.
I own about eight planes-my block plane is what I use 90% of the time. Just make sure it’s a good one, like he said. Mine is a Lie-Nielsen, and worth every penny. I’m a power tool user, so don’t have much use for large planes.
I don't have enough room for power tools apart from a table saw so I am limited to using hand tools such as planes. Haven't brought any new ones. I brought a coiple of old ones and managed to assemble a functional one that works reasonably well and have some spare parts left over. It taught me how a plane is put together and how to service one. Admittedly I was helped enormously by you tube videos. Given that even new planes rarely work straight out of the box it was better that I learn to set up an old one rather than mess up a new one. A new plane is definitely on my shopping list though and I'll probably take your advice and get a 5 and a 1/2.
i'm a powertool woodworker and a pro trim guy(cabinets, doors, casing etc etc) and my two "work" planes are my very elderly stanley 9 1/2 block and my veritas LA jack. both are always on jobsites with me
I have never had the opportunity to use a 5-1/2, but I can see the appeal. I do use a number 6 much like you describe using the 5-1/2. I also have two number 4's, one set up as a scrub with a strong camber on the blade and another set up as a smoother. These two planes get by far the most use. I don't have a jointer, but I can get twist out of a board with my scrub plane very, very fast before sending it through my planer. I also have a couple of number 5's that I picked up in my travels, but they pretty much only get used if I need to joint smaller boards. To be honest, I find that I get far more control with a number 4 than I do with a block plane, so unless I need to work in very tight area, I will grab the number 4 smoother for joint cleanup and to break edges.
Just got my first 5 1/2 Woodriver at your recommendation. I set it up according to Rob Cosman's setting up a new plane and his 32 seconds to blade sharpening. All I can say now is WOW! I enjoy Paul Sellers but I'm more of a power tool guy and I'm physically a lot bigger than he. The number 4 is too small for my hand.
I’ve finally aged enough that patience and progress have reached a good balance. And a project I’m on forced me to use a junky craftsman block plane I found for $10. Instantly made me want to learn more and buy better quality! I think I’m going with your advice on these two sizes also. Perfect for my needs. 👍🏼
THANK YOU SO MUCH! I watched Paul's video on this as well bit I also watch Rob Cosman. I'm a relatively new woodworker, primarily a power tool worker. I saved up and bought a Lie Nielsen block plane 3 weeks ago. FELL ON LOVE! I was planning on going to a 5 1/2 next too for precisely the reasons you said. It's also sparked my interest to restore old planes as well! Everything you've said is validating how I feel. We'll said!
I have restored a few older planes and they are great. What they don't have is mass. The Lie Nielsen jack plane or smoother weighs considerably more than their respective historical versions. The added mass is critical when shooting and planing end-grain.
That's exactly what I did. I got a Lie Nielsen block plane and then got the 5 1/2. I love them both and use both. I just need to get better at sharpening, but I'm getting there. The next step is buying the proper sharpening setup that Rob Cosman suggests.
@@atomictyler Get a honing guide, 1000 grit diamond plate and 16000 Shapton. Don't get a lapping plate as you can use the diamond plate. Dont waste money like I did on other water stones or other combo diamond plates. Those two items will last you a decade
@@MrSharper802 That's my plan. The 16000 Shapton is next on my list. I got a cheap honing guide, but it's...cheap. I shouldn't have bothered with it, the blades don't stay in place properly and it's more frustrating than anything. It's certainly good to hear that the 1000 and 16000 is really all it takes. Do you know if the holder is worth it? It seems like I should probably get it, but gosh it's a lot for a holder.
@@atomictyler i have a holder but you can easily build a wooden base to hold the stone. Or you can use that router mat material under the stone to hold it in place. I had a cheap honing guide at first and honeslty it worked great. I had no need for the lie Neilson until I got into using spokeshaves. Those blades are so short and very hard to sharpe. I think Schwartz put out a video on how to get the cheap honing guide to work a little better.
Could not agree more. Especially about the buying a good plane first. I consider myself a hybrid woodworker, since I would never give up either my power tools or my hand tools. Wasn't always that way. My first experience with hand planes was decades ago when I bought a cheap plane from a big box store. I knew nothing about hand planes back then so using it was disappointing to say the least. I can remember thinking "why would anyone in their right mind ever use one of these." Granted, I didn't even know how to sharpen the blade so you can imagine how frustrating it was. I gave up completely on planes and used sandpaper for anything that a power tool couldn't do. It was years (actually decades) later that I was reintroduced to hand planes by someone who knew how to use them. Talk about the sky opening and angels singing! Wow! My collection of planes is now in excess of 25 or so. Both refinished garage sell ones and high end LN, Veritas, and Woodriver. Agree that the Woodriver brand is the sweet spot for quality and price. They are hard to beat. Probably there are many others out there having a similar experience to mine. Hopefully, they will see this video.
I did the same thing. Bought a little block plane and didn't even think of sharpening it. That was a foreign concept at the time, but hey, I was used to bashing things with hammers and a joint was never more complicated than two boards slammed together. Tried using it to clean up the bottom of a door that was dragging and it did nothing. No amount of effort was going to get that dull blade to cut anything harder than butter. That plane sat in the box for years before I got a real interest and learned how to properly use them. It's still a crappy block plane, but it's a now functional crappy block plane. Can't bring myself to upgrading it when I've got so many other tools to dream about, but one day it'll get replaced with something decent.
I love the number 5 1/2 for all the reasons you listed. It just works soooo much better than the 5 or 6 for those sorts of tasks. The 5 is just a bit too light to power through tough grain, and the 6 is just a bit too long to be easily wielded for most cabinet size project pieces. But, I inherited a number 3 from my WW1 era grandfather. It’s amazingly better for all the things I used to use a block plane for. It has a toe that’s a little longer, and enough extra weight to power through tough grain easily. Yet it’s not too long or wide to get into little areas that a number 4 won’t fit into. It’s also small enough to fix dings without having to smooth the whole board - unlike a longer plane like the number 4 that bridges dings… The only thing I use my block plane now for - is parts I need to trim with one hand. Or when I need to carry a plane in my tool belt pouch. Both things usually only happen during final install of a cabinet, or fine tuning sticking drawers on furniture. The only other plane I’d HIGHLY recommend for a power tool wood worker - is a number 5 set up as a scrub plane. It’s just the fastest way to make 3;4” lumber from the home center into the 1/2” board you wished they sold. You don’t even have to worry about tear out when you’re planing. Because you can just belt sand the last 1/16 of an inch to fix it all up :)
good call it is #7 for me for most ad hoc edge jointing or to quickly flatten a single board. and I recently invested in rabbet / rebate block plane, which was one of my best purchases. I can now clean the rabbets/ rebates or shoulders, and do everything else that block planes can do. I like that edge to edge blade capacity of the rabbet block plane.
Your video is really making me rethink about my idea... I am the shop teacher in a high school. We have 16 Stanley No. 5s and I need more. Finding No.5's is hard so I'm looking to get something else. I was thinking of No. 4's but you suggest No. 5 1/2. The kids are using them to plane rough milled 8/4 pine. I'm worried that the 5 1/2's are too heavy for some of the kids. But, people keep referring to the No. 4 as a smoother and a No. 5 as a scrub plane. Confusing!
Hi James, as a hand tool woodworker and a follower of Paul Sellers I agreed with all you said about the hybrid woodworker the only difference is I prefer a no6 but then I'm a big bloke. Regards Jim UK.
Hey Stumpy! I've been watching you for a while now. Before watching this video, I saught out advice from seasoned wood workers & some experts at local wood tool shops. All led meet to the message you shared in this video; I first purchased a quality (low angle) Block Plane, then "went Big" with a #5 1/2. No regrets about either plane. In fact, buying them has me interested in moving away from more power tools and doing even more wood working by hand! Keep these videos coming. I love your work!
I posess all those planes. But your view on planes is quite interesting. And I thought thst I would agree. Indeed a block plane is mostly used.And 5,5 is heavy and I use it successfully with shooting board, since there is no need to lift it ))))). For beginners a combination of these two planes is the most reasonable choise
Funny that you mention Rob Cosman who absolutely sold me on saving up to the 4 1/2 WoodRiver . I am NOT a major craftsman of any kind but Paul Sellers does have my attention on the no 4 and I have three (not so good restorations yet). I also has the 6 and 7 but... those planes are because they came together in a bulk buy. I have three block planes and I hate them because they are finicky to use and keep aligned.and maintain their setting. I am NO authority of any kind so I listen to all of you. I do NOT disagree with any of your arguments but I will probably still get the 4 1/2. Thank you for a great video.
The 5 1/2 and block plane are the most common grabbed in my shop. I own all the sizes from 2 up thru 8 and they basically dont see very much use at all. My power tools take care of most of those needs that the other planes would fill.
This is very helpful and I appreciate it. One question, I’ve been told a plane on a shooting board shouldn’t have any camber on the blade but a slight camber is often used on a plane for smoothing. If I get a 5 1/2 should I not have any camber? I know the slightest camber is sometimes added to avoid any ridges left by the two corners of the blade.
I am new to fine woodworking and I am learning the Art of Lutherie in order to make Venezuelan Cuatros (a 4 string instrument similar to a Baritone Ukelele). I will be using power tools in combination with hand tools; So far, I have a DW735 planer with helical cutterhead and a Veritas Apron Hand plane with regular blade and toothing blade; I agree with you that I would benefit more from a 5 1/2 plane and a block plane to compliment my power tools. Thank you for your videos!
I mostly agree with your opinions here. The premium planes seem to be heavy, which is fine for a short time. This is ok for hybrid woodworkers. For those without planer thicknessers who plane for long periods then I would recommend a Stanley with an upgraded blade. I have a Stanley number2 and find it an alternative to a block plane. Even more versatile than a block plane is a rebating block plane. However it does have sharp edges to avoid when gripping it. My Qiangsheng number 5 has the most comfortable handle, less backlash and blade, but I rarely use it as it is so heavy. I keep it in a cupboard to admire it most of the time!
My block plane lives in my apron. There are so many times where reaching for it is just the most practical tool for the job. I had a project that needed some very small wrap around external trim. I cut a piece wrong and I was out of new pieces, so I scarfed two shorter ones together. My block plane flushed the two up in just a few passes. Once painted, I couldn’t even tell where it was.
Glad to hear you agree with Rob Cosman on the 5-1/2 jack plane. I am a power tool user that wants to add a hand plane or two to my arsenal of tools. I had already decided to get a low angle block plane, and now I,m thinking I’ll go ahead and get a 5-1/2. Thanks for helping me decide!
Good comparison and being truthful. My go to planes are the Lie-Nielson 5 1/2 jack and the block plane. I've got a nice collection of hand planes but I will assure anyone, those are the two planes I pick up just about everyday. Wood River is also about as good as a plane gets. My wife likes the Wood River. Thanks for the video.
I also like the respect to Sellers. With the master-apprentice system gone, he's a master for all us apprentices. But your balanced knowledge of power and hand tools makes your observations really valuable to me, a beginner. I happen to have a cheap Stanley block plane, which does fine if the blade is sharp, and an oddball old Stanley 5-1/4 I got real cheap on eBay. I'll upgrade to a 5-1/2 one day, because I think you're right on the money.
James - watch your video without the sound on. Notice how the block plane is more difficult to use on all but the chamfer. The #4 seems to be doing all the tasks with ease. Yes the block plane is great for some of these tasks, but unless you are in a tight space, it appears the #4 does them all with less effort.
I was using it in an awkward position do stay out of the camera's way. I don't find it difficult under normal circumstances. But not everyone feels the same way, and the important thing is to use what works best for you :)
good to see that a tradesmen like using his hand tools. As you commented power tools tend to be the tool of preference. I was thought to use my hand tools before I was allowed to use the power tools. The beauty of using hand tools is the satisfaction of the final finish that is achieved along with the internal pleasure you get at the finish.
I fully agree with you on your choices. I am a Paul Sellers devotee but I have found that a block plane and Sargent VBM (an equivalent to the 5 1/2 without the stupid cost) are my most used planes.
As a new weekend woodworker, I used a simple Kobalt block plane to even out the dining room table that I built. While I want to build up my tool selection and use more power tools going forward, you can definitely achieve good results with basic tools if you put in the extra effort. Thanks for all your great tips! I wish I'd found this channel before finishing the table, but I'll definitely watch for new content as I continue learning and making new projects.
I find this video interesting. I never thought about it but these are the only two planes I reach for. My Dad had several and now they are in my shop. The block plane and #5 1/2 get used most every day. These two old planes work well but the new quality planes do have some advantages. Well constructed and thicker blades. If I didn't have these I would go shopping. Great advice Stumpy! Thanks!
I've watched your videos for over a year now and I've never owned a hand plane... guess I should look into getting a few... thanks for a starting point.
When I saw the question in the thumbnail, my immediate thought was my posh block plane and my fave 5 1/2 old Stanley. I used the block plane constantly and treated myself to a Lie Nielson for one of my significant birthdays, whilst it was on sale. The thickness of the blade and the quality of it means I can get a fantastic edge, that lasts an outrageously long time. The 5 1/2 was a random ebay buy, and once I'd tidied it up, it soon became my favourite larger plane. I love the width and weight and find the ubiquitous 4 to be too small and pitchy for anything I use it for. But if I had to reduce to only one, it would the Lie Nielsen block plane, which I can pretty much make do anything.
So right, sadly I haven’t watched this episode before I got my first block and No.4 plane, most of time they do same stuff as I used power tools mostly. Keep making great videos please.
Just yesterday I bought this exact same block plane new at Woodcraft for the same reason you state here. I wanted to get the best new one that I can afford, rather than a used one that potentially was tortured during use or not restored properly. If I ever see the need for larger plane jobs, I will get that 5-1/2 as well.
I have always appreciated your views. Like others that watch your vids, I also watch many other vids to get a full perspective on the subject. You are consistent, and respectful of others. I have always bought the best I can afford to eliminate spending money twice on the same tools. Performance of the tool and the return on the money is top priority for me. Thanks for helping me make solid decisions on tools .
I would guess that I am one of the people your were talking to in this video. I use primarily power tools but i have used a block plane on almost every project and have also used a good jack plane for years. I guess I should consider starting a fund for a good 5 1/2 plane to try out. Thanks for the good information and the very well though out viewpoint.
Great primer. As a power tool woodworker wanting to dive into more hand-tools this was very helpful. Question: why a 5 1/2 over the “low angle jack plane” that many hand-tool guys promote? Why would you choose one over the other?
I find that I most often use a block plane and either a #3 or #4 smoothing plane. I detest sanding and hand planing is faster for me than going through multiple grits - and I don’t need a dust mask. The shorter #3 and #4 follow slight variances in the board better than a longer plane which will only remove the top at first.
I usually use a Stanley 6 for this, but I’m warming up to these 1/2 sizes. I’m liking the idea of the extra width and heft. I think a 5 1/2 will be in my toolbox sooner rather than later!
Solid advice! I do mostly hand tool wood working, but the 5-1/2 and block plane (9-1/2) are my go to planes whether it is hand tool or power tool wood working.
Proper use and selection of the best hand lane takes good amount of practice. I never really learned how use a hand plane. Exploring more now. Thanks for this video.
Build cabinets and doors for residential and hotels. Use my block plain all the time. Mainly use it when it's quicker than getting a router or sander out.
I have seen your videos on youtube and I appreciate your thoughts. It is helpful for me who is just getting a workshop started. I like Rob Cosman too. Thanks for the advise.
I started building about 45 years ago and had no power tools at the time so had quite a good collection of planes (and handsaws). Probably bought my first electric planer 35 years ago and since then have only used a block plane or very occasionally a 4 or 5 and I don't recall using a 4 or 5 in the last 10 years at least.
Thanks for the thoughtful video. No matter my intentions, I always find myself making doors and, for me that means tenon & mortise joining. For cleaning up tenons (and many more applications that I have found over time), I love my Lie-Neilson shoulder plane and would recommend it to a woodworker that is thinking about adding a third plane.
Yep, I got the LN 5 1/2 for just that sort of application. Too old and too late not to have any power tools. One benefit I found that I didn't think about is, now I know what a proper hand plane is supposed to do, how it is supposed to work, how it is supposed to feel and what the results are supposed to look like. I can take this registration into a vintage hand plane restoration and know for sure if the work got me where I need to be or, at least, to a result that presents a value commensurate with what I put into it. I think anyone contemplating a restoration should have this premium point of reference even if they have to borrow one. Thanks for the vids. Like easy listening, music.
This is a great presentation. I am primarily a power tool user, but see the advantages of planes for finishing. I have a (cheap) block and #4 plane. But investing in a good 5.5 plane is something I can do.
I generally only go to Paul when I need to figure out something for a project I intend to do mostly by hand. Yes I may still use a jointer and a planer but there are times when settling down with some old fashioned techniques is a nice change of pace.
Back in 1969 in Freshman shop class we used a Stanley #5 for everything. Just about all of the guys became proficient enough to joint boards of any length for panel glue ups. We didn't know longer planes even existed. Because of that, even though I own a bunch of planes, my old Stanley #5 sees the most use.
I couldn't agree more about not skimping on planes and just buying a new premium plane. I got a Veritas low angle block plane and it is as good as they say. Also, smoothing large surfaces with a plane is so much more pleasant than power sanding. I think it takes less time, too.
I was told by my college lecturer that the basic plane set for starting out was 9 1/2 block plane, no 4 smoothing plane and no 5 jack plane. After years in the trade my go to planes are the 60 1/2 block plane, the no 3 smoothing plane and the 5 1/2 jack plane.
Immediately makes me want to go invest in those planes with an excellent explanation of what planes would be best to benefit a modern workshop environment and some excellent guidance on problems they solve for you.
Love all your videos. This particular one is probably best for a beginner. It seems to me all accomplished tradesmen have a favorite way to do everything, none are better or worse than the other. They're just special to that individual.
Great video. I use a block plane frequently despite being a power tool user. I hadn’t thought about the 5-1/2 being better for a shooting board, but that makes sense. There is another plane that I find really helpful: the shoulder plane. Whether you’re cutting tenons or rabbets, a shoulder plane is perfect for fine tuning the fit. Personally I’d get that before the 5-1/2 but YMMV.
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Do you have an opinion on the Bridge City planes? They look gorgeous, but I’m curious how well they work.
You have answered the question I could never get satisfactorily answered. I would love to incorporate planes with my power tools but never knew where to start. Planing a board smooth rather than sanding appeals to me and I’m sure my lungs will appreciate it as well. I have been making do with a lower quality block plane and when I have it working correctly it is a joy to use but when it is out of sync it frustrates me to no end. User error has to take some of the responsibility but I can also recognize when it does not maintain the setting for very long. Back to basics for me I suppose.
@@Machmuude I own three of them. They are top-quality planes for those who have a lot of extra cash to spend :)
If you check, David Charlesworth introduced the 5 1/2 over 20 years ago as his "super smoother" he just didn't make a lot of you tube videos.
As an aside, I refuse to buy woodcraft planes as they are Chinese copies of Lie-Nielsen.
@@michaelfling7786 - LOL! Both Lie-Nielsen and Woodcraft are copies of Stanley's Bedrock line of planes. And David Charlesworth was definitely not the first one to use the 5-1/2, which has been around for 150 years, as a smoother... I always find it curious why some folks think they first place THEY happened to see something must be the original source or the owner of that particular idea.
In approximately 8 minutes, you upped every beginning woodworkers game. Great video. Maybe more on how to start using a plane for those of us who never had?
Love the way you were gentle when giving a different perspective than Mr. Sellers. Much respect given. Nice. Great info as always James. Thanks!!
I have nothing but respect for him :)
Mr Sellers is awesome and his channel is absolutely invaluable. But sometimes some people have different needs :)
I’d accept James as an honorary Canadian (due to his politeness) were it not for his Red Wings fetish… still, a really nice guy!
@@StumpyNubs it shows! 😊
100% correct...as the saying goes, not what you say but how you say it. Absolute gentleman and the info is very informative
I liked how you paid respect and homage to Paul Sellers, one of the modern greats IMO. I also follow the Cosman methods. But doesn’t mean I don’t learn from Sellers, Matt Estlea (UK), Jonathan Katz-Moses and last, but by no means the least, you James.
You are all great in my book!
The estlea kid is self taught and too young to be a master
Katz moses was a contractor who went out of business and screwed all the vendors
Lol he's barely a woodworker
@@devonwainstein9188 not sure where all the negativity is coming from here about Katz-Moses either. Everyone makes and has made mistakes in life. Are you perfect? I sure ain’t. Sounds like JKM has turned his life around then, so good for him. Sure makes some nice stuff, takes the time out to show people who have less knowledge than he does how to do things.
Is your mindset really in the right place, trying to tear down people? Pretty easy to blast them, as they are somewhat public figures, but I’m sure you wouldn’t even stand up to your own style of scrutiny if you were in their same position.
@@devonwainstein9188 AIUI Estlea spent several years working for a high end woodworking shop.
Nope. He went to furniture building school in the UK and worked for one of the best custom tool companies in the world.
Long time power guy who, with the extra time afforded by retirement, is doing more with hand tools. I have a nice block plane I bought new; a 4 that was my grandpa’s and a 5 1/2 I rescued from a thrift shop. I believe the 4 is over 100 years old and the big plane is 70-80. After a lot of videos by the 3 guys mentioned here, all three are a pleasure to use.
It would be a real challenge to find a video that has as much value as these 7 minutes! No fluff, just solid, clear, practical and immediately useful info. Every woodworker should be paying close attention! Also appreciate your respectful and professional attitude towards others like Paul Sellers and Rob Cosman. You are an expert in the field, an endless source of encouragement and inspiration, and... a Gentleman. IOW a rare person!
May I suggest a no. 5 hand plane is better than a 5 1/2, why for most people A 5 1/2 is heavy and bulky to handle, a a no.5 is sleek and light. And if you are trying to do some fine work, light and sleek works. cheers from Tasmania like you video .
A friend’s father handed me a Stanley 4 1/2 and 5 1/2 this past March. Changed my game.
It’s interesting to hear a variety of opinions on this topic. Most if not all individuals are influenced by very capable individuals like Sellers and Cosman. IMHO, a woodworker has to buy what is required for a particular project and of course what he or she can afford. As a power tool fan from the New Yankee Workshop days, I ended up with a collection of “one of everything “ as Norm promoted power tools. The same is with individuals like Cosman who has now progressed into a tool salesman to supplement his wood working educational outlet. He is probably the current leader in this field and supports a worthy cause. Sellers on the other hand is an excellent and highly skilled teacher of hand tools. What I don’t support in the former is the promotion of Chinese made tools like the WoodRiver line and would opt for Veritas. Lie Neilson’s tool are excellent (Rob Cosman was a LN rep. at the travelling shows) but are extremely expensive.
When I started my apprenticeship as a site carpenter in England 38 years ago, I was told that I would only ever need 2 planes. A block plane and a 5 1/2. I bought a second hand Record SS 5 1/2 (don't think they are available in USA but in my opinion better than Stanley) still have them both.
I too have a Record 5 1/2, one I restored from the fifties. Its my go-to plane for 95% of work. I had to remake the handle, but the metal parts were in good nick when I got it off ebay for peanuts. I had a good vintage Record no.4 as well, but gave that away to one of my sons as I never used it. The only #4 left in my workshop is a chinese cheapo Silverline, set up as a scrub plane for rough surfacing panels too big for my planer/thicknesser. Love the 5 1/2 for the easier straightness you can achieve when dressing panel edges, and the wider flat area when cleaning the faces of panels.
This was my experience with a Stanley SB4, I purchased 25 years ago. Hated it and decided that hand planes were imperfect tools from a bygone era. Until I saw Cosman’s video on the 5 1/2 and bought one. Over the course of the past 4 years, my whole workflow has shifted from power to hybrid and now mostly hand tools. Since I’m just a hobbyist, this works great for me.
One of the most useful planes I have is a No.3 from Clifton. Heavy, accurate and very well made. Compares with the best on the market. And made in the UK.
I gave up buying cheap and Chinese.
You are right on the money that the block plane should be the first plane for a power tool woodworker. When I left the workshop to become a site carpenter the first plane that I acquired was a block plane. A bench plane is on very little use without a bench. The second was a bullnose plane which is very useful for tweaking rebates and close into the corners. My third and specific to my specialism of sash window renovations was a side rebate plane.
Hand planes offer an advantage over machines for jointing in that there is no snipe when used correctly.
On one occassion when I wanted to lay flooring through a lounge I wanted to produce a long straight edge to act as a datum. This I did with several pieces of ply clamped together and planed like a rubbed joint testing as I went to ensure that they were absolutely true.
When using a jack plane I prefer wooden jack planes as they are lighter and with a beeswaxed sole slip like greased eels reducing effort for longer jobs.
I inherited a #2 block and #5 1/2 plane, but never used them because I didn’t understand them. I finally sharpened the blades, figured out the bevel up/bevel down on the 5 1/2 plane and now I love using both of them! The #2 plane is my usual go to hand plane, I can get paper thin shavings all the time. I bought a $12 rusted junk #4 from an antique store, restored it, and now I love using it too. I’m a power tool first guy but hand planes are awesome when you finally learn to work with them and not force them.
I originally bought a #4 smoother after watching a few Paul Sellers videos. Used it for a while and worked well. Then I saw Rob Cosman’s videos and his recommendation for a 5 1/2”. I haven’t touched the 4 since. I’m going to get a block plane now.
I wholeheartedly agree with buying a new premium plane rather than restoring an old one. I would add that all the materials (e.g. sand paper) needed to restore a plane can be very expensive, and you end up reducing a lot of the “savings.” I learned this the hard way.
I did a lot of research on new hand planes, and here’s what I ended up buying in this order:
1. Block plane - Lie-Nielsen No. 102 low angle
2. Jack plane - Veritas low angle with two irons; 25 and 38 degree bevels
3. Smoother - Lie-Nielsen No. 4 in bronze
The Veritas excels on a shooting board. Also, with the 38-degree iron it both smooths and flattens well. The Lie-Nielsen No. 4 is a beauty to behold and provides an unparalleled psychological boost.
Totally agree. Those exact two were my first planes. I later purchased a shoulder plane and router plane.
I have a Lie Nielsen 62 and the Woodriver block plane you showed in this video. They are my first and only hand planes and I love them both. I can quickly, cleanly and quietly perform tasks that used to require a jointer, tablesaw or router. There is something extremely satisfying about cutting those beautiful thin curls.
I just watched this video again. Horses for courses. I’ve progressed from being a hand tool woodworker when young and poor to gradually buying and preferring power tools. I have slowly acquired hand tools also. I have three Stanley number 4s. They are what the shops sell and the most numerous on eBay. I do use them with different blade settings. They are really not as appropriate as a number 5 or five and a half. I was given a Stanley 2 and it works well for block plane situations. When there are noise considerations I use my Qiangsheng rebating block plane frequently. Regarding a shooting board. I think it is too difficult for a beginner. Better to use sandpaper on a two by two or similar. I use an edge sander for squaring and trimming ends. You never have enough tools hand or power. Working freehand for most is never going to be as accurate as power tools but it sure is satisfying if it’s accurate enough.
I just stumbled onto this right after purchasing a No 5 1/2. Many complain about weight but being a young athletic guy I love it and prefer it over all my other places. For the exact reasons why you said in the video
thanks for your video. I have to agree about using the hand planes as a hybrid woodworking. But I really love my Lie Nielsen hand planes they are top notch I think.
I have a 5-1/2 Wood River plane and it's excellent not only as a feature of its quality but also because the 5-1/2 is an excellent all round plane. Its heft enable it to be handled with confidence as it's not 'flighty' and yet its light enough to be used with ease.
Amen, Stump, and as nice as 5-1/2s are, they're kind of scarce and expensive on the used market. #6s however, are plentiful and cheap. Millions of carpenters lugged them to the job site for generations to have many of the same attributes you've mentioned for the 5-1/2 plus they're a little better suited to jointing. At tool swap meets you ought to be able to get a battered and maybe rusted #6 with rosewood handles and no casting breaks or boogered oddball threads pretty quickly for about the same money as a #4. I happened into the pieces to put together a 606 Bedrock, put a premium blade in it and am tuning it for use in a shooting board. Pretty snoot, huh?
Another thing you can do if it's going to be a user, cut down the back end of an old #6 for lighter weight. You get the same width iron as the new 5 1/2s for a lot less outlay
My main plane is a no. 5. I also have a no.4, but rarely reach for it. I also have a block plane which really comes in handy. In short, I agree with you. After watching this... if I were to go back in time, I might have opted for the 5 1/2 for my main plane. But I love my no. 5. Perfect for 99% of my planing needs
Sold. I've been looking for my first plane, and you've settled me on the 5 1/2. Mostly shooting work for luthiery.
As a Swede it brings me joy to see a Sjöbergs bench in places like this. I have two small ones at home and at least one of them are older than me.
Between this video and Cosman's video, it looks like I'll be saving my pennies for a block plane and a 5 1/2. Thanks so much for the info. Hand planes have been a confusing aspect of woodworking for me, and videos like this have helped a lot.
I own a large number of planes and use them regularly. I agree whole heartedly with the block plane, mine is a low profile 62 and works well with end grain. my go to on first pass is usually the 5½, after that it's what ever makes the best joint or finish. all of my lumber is bought unsurfaced, best price and greatest feeling of accomplishment. People have to wait a bit longer for the finished product but once in hand they do not complain. like others have said, thanks for giving Paul Sellers quiet respect. I've learned a great deal from him as well as that Hamilton guy on a different channel.
I think that's a good video. Thank you.
I had a brief comment exchange with Rob Cosman after mentioning that No.6 planes are much like 5 1/2 planes - but longer - if that helped anyone, and that I had one and I really like it. It's great. 18 inches of goodness. Rob is a good guy and mentioned a No.6 is what he'd pick if he could not get a 5 1/5.
If I can add a tip ... if you are getting into woodworking, about the time you get a plane or chisels is a great time to learn how to sharpen them. I use diamond plates, and there is a cost - but whatever system you choose, you do need these tools to be sharp to use them properly. There is no shame in a gig, and there is no shame in cutting panels of leather out of dumped leather sofas to make a strop. Sharpening gets easier and quicker the more practice you have.
I was going to ask about the #6. They're easier to find than a 5-1/2. Esp. if you get an older one (& then you'd need to tune it). Before I had my #7, I used a #6 for the shooting board. And IMO every woodworker will find a shooting board to be useful.
@@TomBuskey Yeah. Much easier - and cheaper. I used eBay. ebay is weird. Sometimes things go for more than you expect. Other times for less. I think patience and some careful shopping can get someone a good plane for about the same price as a not good one.
Again, Paul Sellers mention: his plane restoration videos are excellent. I watched them before I bought and had a really good idea of what I probably needed to do with the planes I was getting. Really enjoyable restoration projects.
A no.7? I was tempted a while back. Never happened, though. I think a No.6, No.4 and low angle block plane will probably do me - but I do need a shooting board at some point.
My only disagreement with you is your use of woodriver, premium and sharp out of the box in the same sentance. I have a WR 6, 4 and black plane. I just bought the 72 today at their sale. None of the blades were sharp enough to use or if the box on any of those planes. I've also got about 6 additional blades for them. They all needed to be flattened and sharpened before use.
You don't have this problem with Veritas or LN.
I don't have a 5 1/2 but I do have a #6. I think it's better than a 5 1/2.
@@mdburnem I think your comment came to this thread by mistake. We made no mention of Woodriver.
@@mdburnem "but I do have a #6" Good stuff. Nice one.
Hello, I rarely comment on videos posted on the internet. I must say that your advice has always been extremely useful and would like to take the opportunity to thank you for all the work you put on this channel.
This video about hand planes was just what I needed to try out more hand tools. I was definitely hesitant to start buying a whole bunch of hand planes due to the wide variety of tools available. Will try the 5 1/2 and the block plane.
Many many thanks for your work.
Kindest regards,
David Lesage, Montreal, Québec, Canada
I have a ton of planes now. Most refurbished antiques. Agree the block plane is the best place for a power tool worker to start. I have a 5 1/2, but I find my go to plane for most things is a LN low angle jack. Easily just a personal preference thing.
I hate sanding, so I do use a #4 a lot as well. I'm fact, most of my plane purchase have been motivated by using a sander less. Straight down to the spoke shaves and cabinet scrapers.
I always use hand tools to clean up power tool marks. Usually it's a few strokes of a No5 or No 7 low angle veritas, but maybe I should give this 5 1/2 a try. The No 4 is the best trade off weight wise (I have like 8 of them LOL). Though it's my 2 cents that it's not really a tool that you can easily learn on. The smaller front edge reference, or how you've tuned your blades really makes the tool take on very different characteristics. I personally really dislike the block plane because I have tiny stubby hands (well relatively). It's always my preference to use a No 3 in its place. I find the narrower and taller Veritas DX series block plane work well for my hands, but I am always banging my finger into something. Oh well, always one more thing to complain about I suppose.
Having a larger router plane really helps with some depth related stuff. A small plough plane is great for quick jobs to make dados and grooves. In fact, a plough plane is often faster than setting up a table saw or a router. The combination version is IMO not worth the setup effort and the weight. In the end, the more the merrier, though I find these two are definitely worth having for most people as accessories planes.
I own about eight planes-my block plane is what I use 90% of the time. Just make sure it’s a good one, like he said. Mine is a Lie-Nielsen, and worth every penny.
I’m a power tool user, so don’t have much use for large planes.
I don't have enough room for power tools apart from a table saw so I am limited to using hand tools such as planes. Haven't brought any new ones. I brought a coiple of old ones and managed to assemble a functional one that works reasonably well and have some spare parts left over. It taught me how a plane is put together and how to service one. Admittedly I was helped enormously by you tube videos. Given that even new planes rarely work straight out of the box it was better that I learn to set up an old one rather than mess up a new one. A new plane is definitely on my shopping list though and I'll probably take your advice and get a 5 and a 1/2.
i'm a powertool woodworker and a pro trim guy(cabinets, doors, casing etc etc) and my two "work" planes are my very elderly stanley 9 1/2 block and my veritas LA jack. both are always on jobsites with me
I have never had the opportunity to use a 5-1/2, but I can see the appeal. I do use a number 6 much like you describe using the 5-1/2. I also have two number 4's, one set up as a scrub with a strong camber on the blade and another set up as a smoother. These two planes get by far the most use. I don't have a jointer, but I can get twist out of a board with my scrub plane very, very fast before sending it through my planer. I also have a couple of number 5's that I picked up in my travels, but they pretty much only get used if I need to joint smaller boards. To be honest, I find that I get far more control with a number 4 than I do with a block plane, so unless I need to work in very tight area, I will grab the number 4 smoother for joint cleanup and to break edges.
Just got my first 5 1/2 Woodriver at your recommendation. I set it up according to Rob Cosman's setting up a new plane and his 32 seconds to blade sharpening. All I can say now is WOW! I enjoy Paul Sellers but I'm more of a power tool guy and I'm physically a lot bigger than he. The number 4 is too small for my hand.
I’ve finally aged enough that patience and progress have reached a good balance. And a project I’m on forced me to use a junky craftsman block plane I found for $10. Instantly made me want to learn more and buy better quality! I think I’m going with your advice on these two sizes also. Perfect for my needs. 👍🏼
This video has upped my future projects quality, in less than 10 minutes. Thank you.
As I have stated before, your gained skills have seriously influenced my wood working skills. Godspeed to you Stumpy.
excellent piece again.
I think the most important lesson you give is at 2:53 to 3:09. This made all the difference for me 8 years ago.
THANK YOU SO MUCH! I watched Paul's video on this as well bit I also watch Rob Cosman. I'm a relatively new woodworker, primarily a power tool worker. I saved up and bought a Lie Nielsen block plane 3 weeks ago. FELL ON LOVE! I was planning on going to a 5 1/2 next too for precisely the reasons you said. It's also sparked my interest to restore old planes as well! Everything you've said is validating how I feel. We'll said!
I have restored a few older planes and they are great. What they don't have is mass. The Lie Nielsen jack plane or smoother weighs considerably more than their respective historical versions. The added mass is critical when shooting and planing end-grain.
That's exactly what I did. I got a Lie Nielsen block plane and then got the 5 1/2. I love them both and use both. I just need to get better at sharpening, but I'm getting there. The next step is buying the proper sharpening setup that Rob Cosman suggests.
@@atomictyler Get a honing guide, 1000 grit diamond plate and 16000 Shapton. Don't get a lapping plate as you can use the diamond plate. Dont waste money like I did on other water stones or other combo diamond plates. Those two items will last you a decade
@@MrSharper802 That's my plan. The 16000 Shapton is next on my list. I got a cheap honing guide, but it's...cheap. I shouldn't have bothered with it, the blades don't stay in place properly and it's more frustrating than anything. It's certainly good to hear that the 1000 and 16000 is really all it takes. Do you know if the holder is worth it? It seems like I should probably get it, but gosh it's a lot for a holder.
@@atomictyler i have a holder but you can easily build a wooden base to hold the stone. Or you can use that router mat material under the stone to hold it in place. I had a cheap honing guide at first and honeslty it worked great. I had no need for the lie Neilson until I got into using spokeshaves. Those blades are so short and very hard to sharpe. I think Schwartz put out a video on how to get the cheap honing guide to work a little better.
Good call! I bought and sold a variety of hand planes sizes during the Covid slows, but find myself only using the above two.
Could not agree more. Especially about the buying a good plane first. I consider myself a hybrid woodworker, since I would never give up either my power tools or my hand tools. Wasn't always that way. My first experience with hand planes was decades ago when I bought a cheap plane from a big box store. I knew nothing about hand planes back then so using it was disappointing to say the least. I can remember thinking "why would anyone in their right mind ever use one of these." Granted, I didn't even know how to sharpen the blade so you can imagine how frustrating it was.
I gave up completely on planes and used sandpaper for anything that a power tool couldn't do. It was years (actually decades) later that I was reintroduced to hand planes by someone who knew how to use them. Talk about the sky opening and angels singing! Wow! My collection of planes is now in excess of 25 or so. Both refinished garage sell ones and high end LN, Veritas, and Woodriver. Agree that the Woodriver brand is the sweet spot for quality and price. They are hard to beat.
Probably there are many others out there having a similar experience to mine. Hopefully, they will see this video.
I did the same thing. Bought a little block plane and didn't even think of sharpening it. That was a foreign concept at the time, but hey, I was used to bashing things with hammers and a joint was never more complicated than two boards slammed together. Tried using it to clean up the bottom of a door that was dragging and it did nothing. No amount of effort was going to get that dull blade to cut anything harder than butter.
That plane sat in the box for years before I got a real interest and learned how to properly use them. It's still a crappy block plane, but it's a now functional crappy block plane. Can't bring myself to upgrading it when I've got so many other tools to dream about, but one day it'll get replaced with something decent.
I love the number 5 1/2 for all the reasons you listed. It just works soooo much better than the 5 or 6 for those sorts of tasks. The 5 is just a bit too light to power through tough grain, and the 6 is just a bit too long to be easily wielded for most cabinet size project pieces.
But, I inherited a number 3 from my WW1 era grandfather. It’s amazingly better for all the things I used to use a block plane for. It has a toe that’s a little longer, and enough extra weight to power through tough grain easily. Yet it’s not too long or wide to get into little areas that a number 4 won’t fit into. It’s also small enough to fix dings without having to smooth the whole board - unlike a longer plane like the number 4 that bridges dings…
The only thing I use my block plane now for - is parts I need to trim with one hand. Or when I need to carry a plane in my tool belt pouch. Both things usually only happen during final install of a cabinet, or fine tuning sticking drawers on furniture.
The only other plane I’d HIGHLY recommend for a power tool wood worker - is a number 5 set up as a scrub plane. It’s just the fastest way to make 3;4” lumber from the home center into the 1/2” board you wished they sold. You don’t even have to worry about tear out when you’re planing. Because you can just belt sand the last 1/16 of an inch to fix it all up :)
good call
it is #7 for me for most ad hoc edge jointing or to quickly flatten a single board.
and I recently invested in rabbet / rebate block plane, which was one of my best purchases. I can now clean the rabbets/ rebates or shoulders, and do everything else that block planes can do. I like that edge to edge blade capacity of the rabbet block plane.
Your video is really making me rethink about my idea... I am the shop teacher in a high school. We have 16 Stanley No. 5s and I need more. Finding No.5's is hard so I'm looking to get something else. I was thinking of No. 4's but you suggest No. 5 1/2. The kids are using them to plane rough milled 8/4 pine. I'm worried that the 5 1/2's are too heavy for some of the kids. But, people keep referring to the No. 4 as a smoother and a No. 5 as a scrub plane. Confusing!
Hi James, as a hand tool woodworker and a follower of Paul Sellers I agreed with all you said about the hybrid woodworker the only difference is I prefer a no6 but then I'm a big bloke. Regards Jim UK.
Hey Stumpy!
I've been watching you for a while now. Before watching this video, I saught out advice from seasoned wood workers & some experts at local wood tool shops.
All led meet to the message you shared in this video; I first purchased a quality (low angle) Block Plane, then "went Big" with a #5 1/2.
No regrets about either plane.
In fact, buying them has me interested in moving away from more power tools and doing even more wood working by hand!
Keep these videos coming.
I love your work!
I posess all those planes. But your view on planes is quite interesting. And I thought thst I would agree. Indeed a block plane is mostly used.And 5,5 is heavy and I use it successfully with shooting board, since there is no need to lift it ))))).
For beginners a combination of these two planes is the most reasonable choise
Funny that you mention Rob Cosman who absolutely sold me on saving up to the 4 1/2 WoodRiver . I am NOT a major craftsman of any kind but Paul Sellers does have my attention on the no 4 and I have three (not so good restorations yet). I also has the 6 and 7 but... those planes are because they came together in a bulk buy. I have three block planes and I hate them because they are finicky to use and keep aligned.and maintain their setting. I am NO authority of any kind so I listen to all of you. I do NOT disagree with any of your arguments but I will probably still get the 4 1/2. Thank you for a great video.
The 5 1/2 and block plane are the most common grabbed in my shop. I own all the sizes from 2 up thru 8 and they basically dont see very much use at all. My power tools take care of most of those needs that the other planes would fill.
Totally agree with you. After watch Rob Cosman last year, I converted from a #4 to a #5 1/2 and haven't looked back. Meets my needs much better.
This is very helpful and I appreciate it. One question, I’ve been told a plane on a shooting board shouldn’t have any camber on the blade but a slight camber is often used on a plane for smoothing. If I get a 5 1/2 should I not have any camber? I know the slightest camber is sometimes added to avoid any ridges left by the two corners of the blade.
I am new to fine woodworking and I am learning the Art of Lutherie in order to make Venezuelan Cuatros (a 4 string instrument similar to a Baritone Ukelele). I will be using power tools in combination with hand tools; So far, I have a DW735 planer with helical cutterhead and a Veritas Apron Hand plane with regular blade and toothing blade; I agree with you that I would benefit more from a 5 1/2 plane and a block plane to compliment my power tools. Thank you for your videos!
I mostly agree with your opinions here. The premium planes seem to be heavy, which is fine for a short time. This is ok for hybrid woodworkers. For those without planer thicknessers who plane for long periods then I would recommend a Stanley with an upgraded blade.
I have a Stanley number2 and find it an alternative to a block plane. Even more versatile than a block plane is a rebating block plane. However it does have sharp edges to avoid when gripping it. My Qiangsheng number 5 has the most comfortable handle, less backlash and blade, but I rarely use it as it is so heavy. I keep it in a cupboard to admire it most of the time!
My block plane lives in my apron. There are so many times where reaching for it is just the most practical tool for the job. I had a project that needed some very small wrap around external trim. I cut a piece wrong and I was out of new pieces, so I scarfed two shorter ones together. My block plane flushed the two up in just a few passes. Once painted, I couldn’t even tell where it was.
Glad to hear you agree with Rob Cosman on the 5-1/2 jack plane. I am a power tool user that wants to add a hand plane or two to my arsenal of tools. I had already decided to get a low angle block plane, and now I,m thinking I’ll go ahead and get a 5-1/2. Thanks for helping me decide!
Good comparison and being truthful. My go to planes are the Lie-Nielson 5 1/2 jack and the block plane. I've got a nice collection of hand planes but I will assure anyone, those are the two planes I pick up just about everyday. Wood River is also about as good as a plane gets. My wife likes the Wood River. Thanks for the video.
I also like the respect to Sellers. With the master-apprentice system gone, he's a master for all us apprentices. But your balanced knowledge of power and hand tools makes your observations really valuable to me, a beginner. I happen to have a cheap Stanley block plane, which does fine if the blade is sharp, and an oddball old Stanley 5-1/4 I got real cheap on eBay. I'll upgrade to a 5-1/2 one day, because I think you're right on the money.
I am that hybrid wood worker and this is Spot ON. The block and 5 are what I use 95% of the time. The other 5% is a shoulder plane
James - watch your video without the sound on. Notice how the block plane is more difficult to use on all but the chamfer. The #4 seems to be doing all the tasks with ease. Yes the block plane is great for some of these tasks, but unless you are in a tight space, it appears the #4 does them all with less effort.
I was using it in an awkward position do stay out of the camera's way. I don't find it difficult under normal circumstances. But not everyone feels the same way, and the important thing is to use what works best for you :)
good to see that a tradesmen like using his hand tools. As you commented power tools tend to be the tool of preference. I was thought to use my hand tools before I was allowed to use the power tools. The beauty of using hand tools is the satisfaction of the final finish that is achieved along with the internal pleasure you get at the finish.
This video came at the right time. I already have a nice block plane and was about to get a another but I think I will upgrade to a 5 1/2.
I fully agree with you on your choices. I am a Paul Sellers devotee but I have found that a block plane and Sargent VBM (an equivalent to the 5 1/2 without the stupid cost) are my most used planes.
I have not used a hand plane since highschool but have recently found renewed interest. Perfect timing. Thank you for the information.
As a new weekend woodworker, I used a simple Kobalt block plane to even out the dining room table that I built. While I want to build up my tool selection and use more power tools going forward, you can definitely achieve good results with basic tools if you put in the extra effort.
Thanks for all your great tips! I wish I'd found this channel before finishing the table, but I'll definitely watch for new content as I continue learning and making new projects.
I find this video interesting. I never thought about it but these are the only two planes I reach for. My Dad had several and now they are in my shop. The block plane and #5 1/2 get used most every day. These two old planes work well but the new quality planes do have some advantages. Well constructed and thicker blades. If I didn't have these I would go shopping. Great advice Stumpy! Thanks!
I've watched your videos for over a year now and I've never owned a hand plane... guess I should look into getting a few... thanks for a starting point.
When I saw the question in the thumbnail, my immediate thought was my posh block plane and my fave 5 1/2 old Stanley. I used the block plane constantly and treated myself to a Lie Nielson for one of my significant birthdays, whilst it was on sale. The thickness of the blade and the quality of it means I can get a fantastic edge, that lasts an outrageously long time. The 5 1/2 was a random ebay buy, and once I'd tidied it up, it soon became my favourite larger plane. I love the width and weight and find the ubiquitous 4 to be too small and pitchy for anything I use it for. But if I had to reduce to only one, it would the Lie Nielsen block plane, which I can pretty much make do anything.
So right, sadly I haven’t watched this episode before I got my first block and No.4 plane, most of time they do same stuff as I used power tools mostly. Keep making great videos please.
Thank you. As a very good price compelling argument for both of these planes I'm sold on the five-and-a-half thank you
Just yesterday I bought this exact same block plane new at Woodcraft for the same reason you state here. I wanted to get the best new one that I can afford, rather than a used one that potentially was tortured during use or not restored properly. If I ever see the need for larger plane jobs, I will get that 5-1/2 as well.
I have always appreciated your views. Like others that watch your vids, I also watch many other vids to get a full perspective on the subject. You are consistent, and respectful of others. I have always bought the best I can afford to eliminate spending money twice on the same tools. Performance of the tool and the return on the money is top priority for me. Thanks for helping me make solid decisions on tools .
Great call. As I am hand plane shopping for my first planes, this is great guidance. Thank you!
I would guess that I am one of the people your were talking to in this video. I use primarily power tools but i have used a block plane on almost every project and have also used a good jack plane for years. I guess I should consider starting a fund for a good 5 1/2 plane to try out. Thanks for the good information and the very well though out viewpoint.
Excellent perspective for those of us that employee a hybrid power tool / hand tool process!
Great primer. As a power tool woodworker wanting to dive into more hand-tools this was very helpful.
Question: why a 5 1/2 over the “low angle jack plane” that many hand-tool guys promote? Why would you choose one over the other?
I find that I most often use a block plane and either a #3 or #4 smoothing plane. I detest sanding and hand planing is faster for me than going through multiple grits - and I don’t need a dust mask. The shorter #3 and #4 follow slight variances in the board better than a longer plane which will only remove the top at first.
I usually use a Stanley 6 for this, but I’m warming up to these 1/2 sizes. I’m liking the idea of the extra width and heft. I think a 5 1/2 will be in my toolbox sooner rather than later!
Great presentation.I am a retired professional getting into wood working as a hobby.Cheers from India.
More hand tool videos please. I'm just now getting into using them along with power tools and I need all the advice I can get.
Solid advice! I do mostly hand tool wood working, but the 5-1/2 and block plane (9-1/2) are my go to planes whether it is hand tool or power tool wood working.
Proper use and selection of the best hand lane takes good amount of practice. I never really learned how use a hand plane. Exploring more now. Thanks for this video.
Thank you for the Hand Plane suggestions. I'm wanting to add to my hand tool collection, and this has been extremely helpful.
Build cabinets and doors for residential and hotels. Use my block plain all the time. Mainly use it when it's quicker than getting a router or sander out.
I have seen your videos on youtube and I appreciate your thoughts. It is helpful for me who is just getting a workshop started. I like Rob Cosman too. Thanks for the advise.
I started building about 45 years ago and had no power tools at the time so had quite a good collection of planes (and handsaws). Probably bought my first electric planer 35 years ago and since then have only used a block plane or very occasionally a 4 or 5 and I don't recall using a 4 or 5 in the last 10 years at least.
Thanks for the thoughtful video. No matter my intentions, I always find myself making doors and, for me that means tenon & mortise joining. For cleaning up tenons (and many more applications that I have found over time), I love my Lie-Neilson shoulder plane and would recommend it to a woodworker that is thinking about adding a third plane.
I think you are exactly right
I personally use my block plane all the time and is my go to tool for all my quick planing needs
Brilliant
Yep, I got the LN 5 1/2 for just that sort of application. Too old and too late not to have any power tools. One benefit I found that I didn't think about is, now I know what a proper hand plane is supposed to do, how it is supposed to work, how it is supposed to feel and what the results are supposed to look like. I can take this registration into a vintage hand plane restoration and know for sure if the work got me where I need to be or, at least, to a result that presents a value commensurate with what I put into it. I think anyone contemplating a restoration should have this premium point of reference even if they have to borrow one. Thanks for the vids. Like easy listening, music.
This is a great presentation.
I am primarily a power tool user, but see the advantages of planes for finishing.
I have a (cheap) block and #4 plane. But investing in a good 5.5 plane is something I can do.
I generally only go to Paul when I need to figure out something for a project I intend to do mostly by hand. Yes I may still use a jointer and a planer but there are times when settling down with some old fashioned techniques is a nice change of pace.
Back in 1969 in Freshman shop class we used a Stanley #5 for everything. Just about all of the guys became proficient enough to joint boards of any length for panel glue ups. We didn't know longer planes even existed. Because of that, even though I own a bunch of planes, my old Stanley #5 sees the most use.
I couldn't agree more about not skimping on planes and just buying a new premium plane. I got a Veritas low angle block plane and it is as good as they say. Also, smoothing large surfaces with a plane is so much more pleasant than power sanding. I think it takes less time, too.
I was told by my college lecturer that the basic plane set for starting out was 9 1/2 block plane, no 4 smoothing plane and no 5 jack plane. After years in the trade my go to planes are the 60 1/2 block plane, the no 3 smoothing plane and the 5 1/2 jack plane.
hello sir, thank you for this sharing. please can you throw more light on standard block plane VS low angle block plane ?
Immediately makes me want to go invest in those planes with an excellent explanation of what planes would be best to benefit a modern workshop environment and some excellent guidance on problems they solve for you.
Love all your videos. This particular one is probably best for a beginner. It seems to me all accomplished tradesmen have a favorite way to do everything, none are better or worse than the other. They're just special to that individual.
Great video. I use a block plane frequently despite being a power tool user. I hadn’t thought about the 5-1/2 being better for a shooting board, but that makes sense.
There is another plane that I find really helpful: the shoulder plane. Whether you’re cutting tenons or rabbets, a shoulder plane is perfect for fine tuning the fit. Personally I’d get that before the 5-1/2 but YMMV.