Rob, thank you so much for helping those who have served this great country of ours. As a recent retired vet from military service and in the process of figuring out what to do as a hobby, in place of being in the field with my Marines and Sailors which I missed a lot, accidently, I started woodworking as a hobby and I love it (should have started years ago). The satisfaction of working on wood, creating something that is unique and yours, even when mistakes are made, then corrected, is an awesome feeling and indeed peaceful. In this relaxing activity, you can't rush things, as it may produce undesirable outcomes or worse, injured yourself. So in a way, it almost feels like this hobby forces the individual to be patient. I am 6'4", 200 lbs, beginner woodworking, I wonder if I should get (my first plane ever) , the 5 1/2 or 6 as I tried the 4" at a local hardware store and my hands were to big for that handle. What are your thoughts? I am so glad that I found your videos while searching on plane basic info, just became a subscriber and will definitely watch all you prior videos. Wow, I thought my many years of schooling were over...now I am what I called a RUclips University (YTBU) freshman..woodworking major.😆 Semper Fi.
This video helped push me to get a No.5 1/2 and I DO NOT regret it one bit, definitely is the best plane if you can only have one/afford one. I started with an old No.4 Record, tuned it up as best as I could, Rob's videos on sharpening helped immensely, but as he says, it was always hard to register when starting a cut and it would easily follow the undulations in the wood when trying to flatten. I was a bit worried about the weight, but honestly, to me, it's only a positive, no negative IMHO. As Rob says, if you're a woman or smaller person, then maybe get the No.5, but definitely don't get the No.4, that extra length in the toe really helps to register and get the plane started. Next "plane" I'll be buying a is a Large Router Plane for cutting/fixing tenon shoulders etc., and then maybe a Rabbet Block Plane.
I have had the Woodriver # 5 1/2 for several months now. Since then I have used it on every woodworking project. It is a real pleasure to work with. The first project was of course a shooting board which I could not miss anymore in combination with my # 5 1/2.
Well, shiver me timbers. I finally made a decision on either a cheap jointer or an expensive hand plane. I bought the hand plane. Bought a Lie-Nielsen #5. Sure wish I saw this first. But then I'm not that strong or big, so maybe it'll work out for me. Sure glad I ran into your video's.
I think many of us here in the UK have #4 planes, as that's the size we used in woodwork classes at school. Clearly, as full grown adults, we can handle a significantly larger plane than that. I have bench planes from #1 to #7 in my 'collection' but the only ones I use regularly are a 4½, two #5½s (one Stanley, one Record; can't tell them apart with thicker irons installed) & a #7. The #5½ is by far the most used.
I went this past Sunday to my local Woodcraft store to purchase a 5 1/2 Wood river plane as a birthday present from my wife. They had none in stock. So, I asked when they thought they would be getting some in. The store clerk checked with the Woodcraft warehouse and he said that there was 3300 5 1/2 's on backorder. If I wanted one I had to pay for it so they could order it. With 3300 ahead of me. I probably wouldn't see that plane for 2 plus years. Wake up Woodcraft corporate!!! Whomever is making Wood river planes for Woodcraft needs to get going. I didn't buy anything. They did have a No.6 maybe I will go back and get that I have a No.4 already. I guess go news for you Rob. The crew out here is listening to you. Always enjoy your videos.
Their website is showing end of July availability but I would take that with a grain of salt. My local Woodcraft is out of stock on many items. I’m sure Chinese supply chain is a big contributor.
A #6 has been my go to plane for the past 20 years, and I'm happy to see it get some respect in your comments! I'm a 6'6" former defenseman, and the #4 always felt too tiny in my hands. I like the #6 for just about everything from jointing small boards to flattening table tops to final smoothing. I like that you used to find them very cheap as well because a lot of folks passed them over as "too big".
I got a 5 1/2 years ago after one of Rob's demonstrations. It was actually the unit used by Rob for the demonstration. It has been my go to ever since. I have others including a handed down #6. But the one I end up reaching for consistently is the 5 1/2. I end up having different blades for different purposes (cambered, non cambered, will get another for higher pitch). I also really appreciate the ability of having a 2 3/8 blade to swap between different sizes without a hitch between a 4 1/2, 5 1/2, & 6.
When I first started the adventure into dovetails, I was watching the older, English gent. His years of experience lent some "street cred". He advocates #5 Stanley planes, poo-pooing the added weight of the 5-1/2 and the other manufacturers. As a newbie to hand planing I heeded his advice and purchased some used planes online, learned to tune and fettle said planes and they were okay, just not what I expected. Then I discovered your channel and learned. I now have the WoodRiver 5-1/2, a 16,000 grit stone, a much improved technique for dovetails. I fully agree with your assessment of the plane usage. The other guy is a fine craftsman and one can learn much, you have a happy blend of power tool, hand tool application and you appear to have the best explanations of why you do things as you do. Thanks Rob for sharing your methods and skills, plus, the PHP is stellar.
Our mission is PHP, a labor of true love. Its very hard to convince many folks of what you learned. There is so much wrong stuff on you tube. Glad you found us and glad you commented
I love the old English gent, but tend to agree more (about tools) with the middle-aged Canadian. Still watch both, because until I can afford better tools, I'm trying to make up for it with attitude.
Luv your videos, so informative. Finally learned how to freehand sharpen and now my cheap stanley 4 1/2 Bailey plane performs like a dream, in saying that I listened to your advice and purchased a 5 1/2 Luban plane( made by the same company as Woodriver as down in Australia it's rather hard to get a Woodriver plane). I tuned it up following everything you said and it works like a dream, super thin shavings. Keep up the great videos Rob.
If we only look at weight to width, you only add 15.5% weight to get 19% more width. Sounds like a win choosing the #5-1/2 over the #5. The added width, length and weight for stability are just bonuses. Thank you for your content.
Bought one of your dovetail saws from Woodcraft. It took them 8 weeks to get it. 6 weeks to get the wrong saw then two weeks later the right saw. Didn’t use it for several weeks then took it to the shop. Followed your instructions of barely holding on to the saw. Had a little difficulty starting the cut because I kept pulling to start. Old habits hard to change. So, I was flabbergasted, once the cut was 1/4 inch into the wood it tracked straight. After that it was just making sure I didn’t cut past my mark which, dang it, I did😬. I’ve been using Japanese saws for 30 years and always had trouble with wandering kerf. Not now.
@@chm1701 It's a learning curve. heavier than I expected, but nice. The only planes I had used before were a couple of hand-me-down Stanley's (Bailey style) that were pretty cheap and crude. This thing is sweet in comparison.
I inherited about half of my planes from my grandfather who used them as a millwright in the Indiana coal mines. So they needed a lot of attention to get them suited for woodworking. I do have a new low angle block and a new shoulder plane. A few years ago I picked up a 5 1/2 Bailey that probably dates to around WW II at a thrift store. It was very rusted but not pitted. I took it apart and brought to good enough condition that my local woodworking shop complimented me on its condition. I recently gave up on the old blade which appeared to have some soft spots in it making it impossible to keep a square edge. With a new blade I finally have a device that works like the guys' in all of these videos. It seems to miraculously find its way out of the drawer into my hand for almost every job.
Wonderfulstory. If you follow my videosyou know how much I advocate that the best thing you can do for an older plane is add a modern high quality, thick blade to it
i got my cosman crosscut saw last week to go with the cosman dovetail saw that ive had a while and i cant seem to put them down this week. i also love my 5 1/2 woodriver that i purchased on your recomendation. cant wait to pick up a 4 1/2 next!
I added the Lie Nielson 5-1/2 to my plane inventory based on your recommendations. It is by far the plane I use the most. I was lucky and got it before all the shortages.
I have the WR #7 its fantastic, is the absolute smoothest to adjust of ever plane i own, very easy handle and great results. I prefer it on the shooting board for that weight, get moving and it almost does the rest. Probably never would need a Lie Nielsen #8 But I Really Want One!!
I really like the no. 6 as my jack. As you say, it does very well as a jointer for small-to-medium stock, on the shooting board, and whatnot. I use a no. 5 as a foreplane with a strongly cambered iron, and a 3 and 4.5 as smoothers (the 3 is nice for smaller narrower pieces where the 4.5 is so wide it begins to feel "tippy."
Super excited to get my 5-1/2 from woodcraft. Ordered it in December. Should ship in July. Yep you heard me right. 7 month delivery :) assuming it doesn’t get pushed out again… for the third time…
Just happened to log onto Lie-Nielsens site earlier this week and saw that they had 5-1/2 in stock. Ordered one and three hours later they were out of stock. they shipped it the same day I ordered it.
I was on the lie Nielsen waitlist for the 5-1/2 as well and never got an email saying they were back in stock so you got lucky! I’ll keep checking the website so great suggestion. Thanks!
One more time. GREAT JOB Waiting on Woodcraft to get the 5.5 in I have a stanley #5 and #7 my 5 is my go to & 7 on my shooting board. Keep the videos coming i suggest to my men to watch them thanks again
I thought I made my boards flat with a 5 1/2. I had a consistent shaving across the entire board. Then I bought a number 8 at an auction and used that for the first time. I made very shallow cuts and was amazed that it actually skipped on the first couple passes before I started getting continuous shavings. All that said, the 5 1/2 or 6 are still my go to planes. I love the wider blades. They're Woodriver planes and I have no complaints. The blades are not A2 tool steel, but they still hold an edge about as long as the A2 tools steel blades. Not sure if anyone else finds this, but it seems like planing end grain on a shooting board dulls the edge faster than anything else.
Rob’s advice is invaluable as usual! The question is should you buy the WoodRiver 5 1/2 or pay the $105 premium for a Lie-Nielsen? The #7 has a $75 premium.
A couple of months ago, I bought a few of the #6 Wood River planes and have not been disappointed. Elsewhere, Rob has a video on how to ‘Cosmanize’ them that is very helpful. I can’t think of a reason to spend more on a L-N, unless one wants to avoid the simple and easy process of ‘Cosmanizing’.
well, I can tell you that my most hated bench plane is my WR. the lever cap spring came deformed, the screw that provides the lever cap pressure when engaged was poorly machine and causes my lever cap to move no matter how loose or tight, neither sides are 90 degrees making it hard to shoot with, and my frog loosens periodically making it hard to set the lateral adjustment on the plane. This i just discovered happening, after using the plane for about two years, and so its gaining frustrations. its the plane i hate the most. alternatively, I have never had any issue with my veritas or LN planes, nor any of my old stanleys that i have restored. So just a heads up from an honest experience.
Hi Rob one more time a very usefull video.Please a question.If I already have a Stanley #6 I can use the same size of your shooting board or I must to make it little longer?.Thanks for all help.
Your videos on dove tailing are the best. Thanks!!!! Couldn't of asked for a better instructor. BTW, when I shut down my shop, I kept my 5.5 and still use it for most any repairs, had a complete set of LN.
I would add a pro for the #5. When you are tight on budget, it is very easy to find inexpensive old Stanley #5 in really good shape compared to 5-1/2" that are rare and often as expensive as a brand new premium plane.
True, but by the time you tune it up, if you add an after market modern plane iron, which I highly recommend, you are at about 75% of a new plane. So its a tough decision
@@RobCosmanWoodworking right. But I've been lucky finding a Miller Falls #14 (equivalent of a number 5) in perfect condition for 20$. It's a thin blade but for the price it work pretty good.
@@jimrobinson8167 It's a clip-on doodad that sits on the side of the plane, right where Rob describes in this video. You use it with the shooting board to save your hand, as it can get...uncomfortable...after a while.
I like my No. 6, I use it pretty much just as you describe. I find it does as good a job jointing as I need except for some very long pieces where the mass of the jointer made a difference in running the shaving farther. One unusual task is taking really thin shavings of end grain for microscope slides. A sharp No. 6 lifts off perfect shavings, especially with a little alcohol applied to the wood.
So I was playing on a 2.5 x 2.5" x 5' old red oak and was using my #5 then my #7 and my #6. Out of all of them the #6 was best. Th #5 did not have the mass, the #7 was hard to control on a long push but good old #6 was a dream .
Oh man you just gave me a great idea, a 5 1/4 would ROCK for a foreplane. Its heavy and narrow enough to use all of a camber with the corners of the blade 1/16" back from the center (no idea what radius that gives) narrow so that the scallops don't cause TOO much headache with tip in. And long enough (but not too long) to hand-hold the flatening process a little bit. Yeah yeah not a mountain dew and protein shake powered thicknesser but a neat thought. On topic: My favorite scrub is a #3 it can CHEW through 1/2" of wide board face at an absolutely obsciene rate, my #4 just can't match it for full width depth of cut.
I like the honesty of your approach. If you were all about selling your goods then you could give all sorts of reasons why the novice wood worker needs every plane in the range, but you don't. You try and save the novice a heap of money by providing your years of experience, free of charge, to guide them in what they really need. There is surely good karma in that.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking That sound like you think you'll need it. I don't think so. You seem to have devoted your life to doing the right thing. I think you've got a fair bit of credit on the ledger already stowed away.
I recommend and use the chipbreaker and iron that come with it. Sometimes you will see me with an IBC set because I have so many and just keep about 5 sets sharp and reach for whatever is next in line on my bench
One thing I've always wondered: why is the cutting surface of the plane so close to the front of the sole? Would it be more effective, especially on the bigger planes, to have the cutting edge further back on the sole?
I dont know if Stanley test that snd found the current configuration the best. Its all about applying the right pressure comfortably. With such a low demand for planes today I dont see any plane maker experimenting with the tried and true configuration
I would think it would be less effective. You need to move the plane iron just pass the edge of the wood. The more weight you have on the front, the more tendency you will have to tilt forward since you will have more weight hanging off the edge. If the majority of your weight is behind the blade, the more weight is focused on the flattest surface of your board. You also only push down on the front when you first start. By the end of the board, all of your pressure should be on the back. Having a heavy back and lighter front helps with that general motion.
Sorry, Rob, but I got the 5. Reasons: 1) Though I'm probably taller than you, my hands are long and slender. I have very strong hands but even at my age I haven't built mass or much fat on my hands. 2) Due to my less-than-ideal "shop," I do in fact often pick up the plane and set (plunk) it down again. I also do not have an actual work bench. I make do however I can. So having a slightly lighter plane is ideal. 3) Cost - The 5 is about $40 less expensive. When I bought it, I also bought other tools to go along w/ it (expensive tenon saw which I don't regret at all) which increased cost and made me hesitant. I'd almost say that cost was my #1 reason that I didn't buy the 5 1/2. I do in fact almost regret getting the 5 and not the 5 1/2 though. Almost. Sometimes I find that I need more width, or wish I could take off a wider portion to cover more surface area. But the 5 is still a fine tool and has plenty of weight and girth to go through harsh knots in the wood. Combined w/ my old block plane and the cheap #4 plane (which I may convert into a scrub plane, but not yet), the 5 is an excellent workhorse. Maybe some day I'll look for a used 5 1/2 that's in need of TLC. But for now, my #5 is actually really nice.
Great info, Rob~! I love my Woodriver 5 1/2. I'm looking at eventually picking up a jointer plane. I take it that you would recommend a #7 instead of a #6 since I have a 5 1/2 already? Thanks much~!
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Excellent~! I'll of course have to pick up the plane at Woodcraft since I'm in the US, but I'm coming to you for IBC blades~! :-) Thank you~!
Very informative. I understand that you work closely with woodriver in developing and improving their planes. Have you concidered producing other planes besides the standard bench ones such as plow planes or tounge and groove planes.
They hired me to help them with their bench planes. I am not a employee of WoodCraft and I have no say so in what planes thay choose tomake. Case in point I recommend they make a scrub plane, but alas they have no scrub plane
Who didn’t see that coming; Rob is inseparable from the 5 1/2! I love that he doesn’t do the stupid things many others do like lifting the plane at the end of the stroke and storing the plane on its side!
Thanks for the vid, Rob. Like you I am a 5½ fan. I got suckered in to replacing my trusty Stanley Jack with a Veritas low angle as bout two years ago and I hated it. I treated my Stanley to a new Hock blade and am now happy again. What do you think of the purpose made shooting board planes the Veritas and Lie Neilsen make? Would you be tempted by one, or would you support Woodriver making such a plane?
@@tomjudkins3799 Because the Hock blade is thicker than the Stanley, you have to adjust the frog position back towards the handle to allow the blade to seat properly and be able to produce through the sole throat.
I have to completely agree with you on that. :) The tote & knob on the Woodriver planes have a matte finish when new.. did you wax them when new to give them a little protection or did they become shiny after using them for a while?
Thanks Rob for a very informative video for beginners like me. I have a No4 plane. Which one should I add now? No 5 1/2 or No 6? Which one do you recommend
5-1/2 is my preferred, but hard to get now. I don’t think you need a 5-1/2 and a 6 choose one or the other. 6 is easier to find right now so it depends on what you can find
Hi Rob, I have a no. 605 and it has a 2 inch blade . I was under the impression that the 605 1/2 was the only number 6 plane with the wider 2 1/4 blade?
My WoodRiver 5 1/2 is about 5 years old now. Can i upgrade it with the new "Star"-Blade-Setscrew? As i have very little hands, i am not able to work your routine "online-bladedepth-setting", my thump doesn't reache the Set-screw, and my indexing alone is not strong enough in this position. As a result i many times preferred using my veritas #4(?) or my old wooden ulmia. I think the "star-setscrew" could solve my problem and get my loved 5 1/2 more into my work! Is it compatible?
This is not intended to sound smart Alec but if you were edge planing 1/2 or 3/3 because you have reswawn would you use the smaller foot plane to have better balance?
Good info as always Rob. Much appreciated. I have two Bailey 5 1/2 planes. One has the 2 1/4" blade and the other the 2 3/8" blade. The one with the 2 3/8" blade does not have the smooth frog face like the older one with the narrower blade. All things being equal (condition, sole flatness, etc...) would you use the one with the narrower or wider blade?
Sounds like someone somewhere switch out a bedrock frog fora baily frog. The issue with the 2-1/4 blade is try to find a modern thick blade in that size its hard. The very best thing you can do is put a modern blade in the plane. I guess I would keep the 2-3/8, make sure the frog face is dead flat (Sanding paper on a know flat surface) and get a modern 2-3/8 blade.
I have power tool, incl power planer….but thinking it might be more convenient and faster to peel off an odd millimeter with a small hand plane…maybe a Stanley #4….might even make myself a shooting board. Power tools can be overkill at times…and you can’t (easily) add wood back huh!
Thanks Rob as usual, great video, very informative. I purchase the WoodRiver Ultimate Bench Plane kit from Woodcraft awhile back consists of a #3, #4, #5, #6 I like the #6 pretty well. What block plane would you recommend Rob? Thanks
You made a remark that you don’t know any reason why a person would own a narrow sole jack plane. I love the plane. My plane is a 6051/4. I didn’t purchase it. I inherited it. when I install replacement windows I have to build an extension jamb. The extension jambs have to be planed down to match the elevation of the gypsum wall board. The 605 1/4 jack is light enough to work with on vertices surfaces. Previously, before owning this jack plane, I used a block plane. The jack allows me to ride long the wall board surface as I reduce the extension jambs to marriage with the level of the wall board. The jack offers enough weight needed make cutting more easily then working with a block plane. It is my go to plane for sizing extension jambs.
No expert on planes here, but here’s a comparison a hockey guy like Rob might enjoy. Maybe the size of the plane choice is like the selection of a hockey stick for length and lie. All things being equal a long stick is an advantage, but for some the shorter stick is easier to handle. And Zdeno Charo needs a stick that could do double duty in the pole vault.
Tom is on the money. The WR blades arevery good. You can spend a lot of money on a better blade but you will only see about a 5% improvement. If you want that go ahead,but its not neccessary
Now we just need wood river to get more produced so I can buy one. Otherwise, I'm going to have to wait until I get to your class so I can buy one while I'm there.
My no 6 is my favorite plane to use. Especially on the shooting board. I don't have a 5 1/2 tho. Unless you count my Ohio tools version, but that thing is real finicky.
In a 1958 Stanley Catalog it state's in the plane section (page 36) " Did you know that "Jack" Plane is short for "Jackass" Plane; an appropriate name for the Plane that is used for the hardest and roughest kind of work.). That should be an authority enough for the name even though the "Jack of All Trades" may be more politically correct in todays world
Further, in Wikipedia (not that is something to call official) it states " The name jack plane dates back to at least the 17th century, and was a term used to describe many tools used for rough work. Being a common first name the term jack came to be used disdainful name for the common man."
I dont see why there is a hype for the nr 5 plane in the woodworking community. The nr 5 makes sense if your only going to buy one plane. But its not the best plane for any task. The nr 4 is a better smoother and easier to use. For heavy stook removal i put in another blade in it. For jointing its better with something loonger than the nr 5. I use a wooden jointer plane becose the stanley nr 7 is to heavy.
A tool needs to feel right in the hand. Some will want big and heavy, some not so much. One should own many planes so you have choice. cost mmm! build your collection over time. I have 30 planes, old and new, low end to high end, new and old, no 5 acorn nice in hand.
This might be the 2nd or 3rd worst information videos I’ve ever seen……….no wait … it’s the 3 & 7/8th worst, no…. I think its the 2.369th worst video, no wait i think it might be the 1.7563rd worst video, no wait…………😂😂
Rob, thank you so much for helping those who have served this great country of ours. As a recent retired vet from military service and in the process of figuring out what to do as a hobby, in place of being in the field with my Marines and Sailors which I missed a lot, accidently, I started woodworking as a hobby and I love it (should have started years ago). The satisfaction of working on wood, creating something that is unique and yours, even when mistakes are made, then corrected, is an awesome feeling and indeed peaceful. In this relaxing activity, you can't rush things, as it may produce undesirable outcomes or worse, injured yourself. So in a way, it almost feels like this hobby forces the individual to be patient. I am 6'4", 200 lbs, beginner woodworking, I wonder if I should get (my first plane ever) , the 5 1/2 or 6 as I tried the 4" at a local hardware store and my hands were to big for that handle. What are your thoughts? I am so glad that I found your videos while searching on plane basic info, just became a subscriber and will definitely watch all you prior videos. Wow, I thought my many years of schooling were over...now I am what I called a RUclips University (YTBU) freshman..woodworking major.😆 Semper Fi.
This video helped push me to get a No.5 1/2 and I DO NOT regret it one bit, definitely is the best plane if you can only have one/afford one. I started with an old No.4 Record, tuned it up as best as I could, Rob's videos on sharpening helped immensely, but as he says, it was always hard to register when starting a cut and it would easily follow the undulations in the wood when trying to flatten. I was a bit worried about the weight, but honestly, to me, it's only a positive, no negative IMHO. As Rob says, if you're a woman or smaller person, then maybe get the No.5, but definitely don't get the No.4, that extra length in the toe really helps to register and get the plane started.
Next "plane" I'll be buying a is a Large Router Plane for cutting/fixing tenon shoulders etc., and then maybe a Rabbet Block Plane.
I have had the Woodriver # 5 1/2 for several months now. Since then I have used it on every woodworking project. It is a real pleasure to work with. The first project was of course a shooting board which I could not miss anymore in combination with my # 5 1/2.
Awesome!!!!!
Well, shiver me timbers. I finally made a decision on either a cheap jointer or an expensive hand plane. I bought the hand plane. Bought a Lie-Nielsen #5. Sure wish I saw this first. But then I'm not that strong or big, so maybe it'll work out for me. Sure glad I ran into your video's.
I think many of us here in the UK have #4 planes, as that's the size we used in woodwork classes at school.
Clearly, as full grown adults, we can handle a significantly larger plane than that.
I have bench planes from #1 to #7 in my 'collection' but the only ones I use regularly are a 4½, two #5½s (one Stanley, one Record; can't tell them apart with thicker irons installed) & a #7.
The #5½ is by far the most used.
I went this past Sunday to my local Woodcraft store to purchase a 5 1/2 Wood river plane as a birthday present from my wife. They had none in stock. So, I asked when they thought they would be getting some in. The store clerk checked with the Woodcraft warehouse and he said that there was 3300 5 1/2 's on backorder. If I wanted one I had to pay for it so they could order it. With 3300 ahead of me. I probably wouldn't see that plane for 2 plus years. Wake up Woodcraft corporate!!! Whomever is making Wood river planes for Woodcraft needs to get going.
I didn't buy anything. They did have a No.6 maybe I will go back and get that I have a No.4 already.
I guess go news for you Rob. The crew out here is listening to you.
Always enjoy your videos.
Their website is showing end of July availability but I would take that with a grain of salt. My local Woodcraft is out of stock on many items. I’m sure Chinese supply chain is a big contributor.
I dont know what the cause of th ebig delay is. Demand outstrippedproduction? is there shipping issues? I wish I knew what was happening
Maybe they're on the Evers Given in the middle of the Suez Canal, you may need to wait a couple of years to get them.
A #6 has been my go to plane for the past 20 years, and I'm happy to see it get some respect in your comments!
I'm a 6'6" former defenseman, and the #4 always felt too tiny in my hands. I like the #6 for just about everything from jointing small boards to flattening table tops to final smoothing.
I like that you used to find them very cheap as well because a lot of folks passed them over as "too big".
you are correct. And I would say they can joint bigger than small boards!
I got a 5 1/2 years ago after one of Rob's demonstrations. It was actually the unit used by Rob for the demonstration. It has been my go to ever since. I have others including a handed down #6. But the one I end up reaching for consistently is the 5 1/2. I end up having different blades for different purposes (cambered, non cambered, will get another for higher pitch). I also really appreciate the ability of having a 2 3/8 blade to swap between different sizes without a hitch between a 4 1/2, 5 1/2, & 6.
Great story....Appreciate the comment
I have the #1, 2, 3, 4, 4 1/2, 5, 5 1/2, 6 and 7 planes. For the last 30 years the 5 1/2 Bedrock has been my go to plane.
'nough said!
When I first started the adventure into dovetails, I was watching the older, English gent. His years of experience lent some "street cred". He advocates #5 Stanley planes, poo-pooing the added weight of the 5-1/2 and the other manufacturers. As a newbie to hand planing I heeded his advice and purchased some used planes online, learned to tune and fettle said planes and they were okay, just not what I expected. Then I discovered your channel and learned. I now have the WoodRiver 5-1/2, a 16,000 grit stone, a much improved technique for dovetails. I fully agree with your assessment of the plane usage. The other guy is a fine craftsman and one can learn much, you have a happy blend of power tool, hand tool application and you appear to have the best explanations of why you do things as you do. Thanks Rob for sharing your methods and skills, plus, the PHP is stellar.
Our mission is PHP, a labor of true love. Its very hard to convince many folks of what you learned. There is so much wrong stuff on you tube. Glad you found us and glad you commented
I love the old English gent, but tend to agree more (about tools) with the middle-aged Canadian. Still watch both, because until I can afford better tools, I'm trying to make up for it with attitude.
Luv your videos, so informative. Finally learned how to freehand sharpen and now my cheap stanley 4 1/2 Bailey plane performs like a dream, in saying that I listened to your advice and purchased a 5 1/2 Luban plane( made by the same company as Woodriver as down in Australia it's rather hard to get a Woodriver plane). I tuned it up following everything you said and it works like a dream, super thin shavings. Keep up the great videos Rob.
If we only look at weight to width, you only add 15.5% weight to get 19% more width. Sounds like a win choosing the #5-1/2 over the #5. The added width, length and weight for stability are just bonuses. Thank you for your content.
Bought one of your dovetail saws from Woodcraft. It took them 8 weeks to get it. 6 weeks to get the wrong saw then two weeks later the right saw. Didn’t use it for several weeks then took it to the shop. Followed your instructions of barely holding on to the saw. Had a little difficulty starting the cut because I kept pulling to start. Old habits hard to change. So, I was flabbergasted, once the cut was 1/4 inch into the wood it tracked straight. After that it was just making sure I didn’t cut past my mark which, dang it, I did😬. I’ve been using Japanese saws for 30 years and always had trouble with wandering kerf. Not now.
Yes that is what Japanese saws do. Next time order straight from our website and you will get the saw much faster
Very excited to get my Lie-Neilsen 5-1/2 today. Thank you rob for all your informative videos and workshops!
thank you for watching and commenting
How have you got on, Randy? I’m a huge Lie-Nielsen fan and this is on my “to buy” list.
@@chm1701 It's a learning curve. heavier than I expected, but nice. The only planes I had used before were a couple of hand-me-down Stanley's (Bailey style) that were pretty cheap and crude. This thing is sweet in comparison.
That is the bedtime presentation i have seen regarding figured wood. Our Australian timber us notoriously hard to plane so I’ll try this tomorrow 👍👍👌👌
I watch many of your videos more than once. I find more each time I do. Thanks Rob.
Love my 4 1/2 and 5 1/2 planes! I don't feel sop bad having so many after seeing your family of planes. Thanks Rob!
I inherited about half of my planes from my grandfather who used them as a millwright in the Indiana coal mines. So they needed a lot of attention to get them suited for woodworking. I do have a new low angle block and a new shoulder plane. A few years ago I picked up a 5 1/2 Bailey that probably dates to around WW II at a thrift store. It was very rusted but not pitted. I took it apart and brought to good enough condition that my local woodworking shop complimented me on its condition. I recently gave up on the old blade which appeared to have some soft spots in it making it impossible to keep a square edge. With a new blade I finally have a device that works like the guys' in all of these videos. It seems to miraculously find its way out of the drawer into my hand for almost every job.
Wonderfulstory. If you follow my videosyou know how much I advocate that the best thing you can do for an older plane is add a modern high quality, thick blade to it
i got my cosman crosscut saw last week to go with the cosman dovetail saw that ive had a while and i cant seem to put them down this week. i also love my 5 1/2 woodriver that i purchased on your recomendation. cant wait to pick up a 4 1/2 next!
Thnaks.....I would go with a #7 over the 4-1/2/ Your 5-1/2 will do almost everything a 4-1/2 will do
I added the Lie Nielson 5-1/2 to my plane inventory based on your recommendations. It is by far the plane I use the most. I was lucky and got it before all the shortages.
Good for you, yes its a great plane. So glad it worked for you
I been using his sharpening method for a month and boy it works. My Stanley is cutting better than ever.
Glad to here your having success
I have the WR #7 its fantastic, is the absolute smoothest to adjust of ever plane i own, very easy handle and great results. I prefer it on the shooting board for that weight, get moving and it almost does the rest. Probably never would need a Lie Nielsen #8 But I Really Want One!!
I really like the no. 6 as my jack. As you say, it does very well as a jointer for small-to-medium stock, on the shooting board, and whatnot. I use a no. 5 as a foreplane with a strongly cambered iron, and a 3 and 4.5 as smoothers (the 3 is nice for smaller narrower pieces where the 4.5 is so wide it begins to feel "tippy."
I bought the Wood River, yes I know it's Chinese , based on Rob's advice . It is a wonderful plane .
Thanks for all the good info.
You bet
Super excited to get my 5-1/2 from woodcraft. Ordered it in December. Should ship in July. Yep you heard me right. 7 month delivery :) assuming it doesn’t get pushed out again… for the third time…
Just happened to log onto Lie-Nielsens site earlier this week and saw that they had 5-1/2 in stock. Ordered one and three hours later they were out of stock. they shipped it the same day I ordered it.
We feel your pain. Thats why we dont quote an estimated delivery time
I was on the lie Nielsen waitlist for the 5-1/2 as well and never got an email saying they were back in stock so you got lucky! I’ll keep checking the website so great suggestion. Thanks!
Like the explanation, makes it simple to understand
Thanks for watching and commenting
"You are still going to need a jointer." I hear you loud and clear! 🤗
Jointers are my second favorite plane
One more time. GREAT JOB
Waiting on Woodcraft to get the 5.5 in I have a stanley #5 and #7 my 5 is my go to & 7 on my shooting board. Keep the videos coming i suggest to my men to watch them thanks again
I think they should start arriving in July
Very well explained.
On the east side of the lake, at latitude 40ºN, 008ºW.
Thanks.
I thought I made my boards flat with a 5 1/2. I had a consistent shaving across the entire board. Then I bought a number 8 at an auction and used that for the first time. I made very shallow cuts and was amazed that it actually skipped on the first couple passes before I started getting continuous shavings.
All that said, the 5 1/2 or 6 are still my go to planes. I love the wider blades. They're Woodriver planes and I have no complaints. The blades are not A2 tool steel, but they still hold an edge about as long as the A2 tools steel blades. Not sure if anyone else finds this, but it seems like planing end grain on a shooting board dulls the edge faster than anything else.
Yes the longer the plane the flatter the board, I agree with all your other comments. Thanks for watching
Great lesson
Rob’s advice is invaluable as usual! The question is should you buy the WoodRiver 5 1/2 or pay the $105 premium for a Lie-Nielsen? The #7 has a $75 premium.
A couple of months ago, I bought a few of the #6 Wood River planes and have not been disappointed. Elsewhere, Rob has a video on how to ‘Cosmanize’ them that is very helpful. I can’t think of a reason to spend more on a L-N, unless one wants to avoid the simple and easy process of ‘Cosmanizing’.
it is a delimma.
well, I can tell you that my most hated bench plane is my WR. the lever cap spring came deformed, the screw that provides the lever cap pressure when engaged was poorly machine and causes my lever cap to move no matter how loose or tight, neither sides are 90 degrees making it hard to shoot with, and my frog loosens periodically making it hard to set the lateral adjustment on the plane. This i just discovered happening, after using the plane for about two years, and so its gaining frustrations. its the plane i hate the most. alternatively, I have never had any issue with my veritas or LN planes, nor any of my old stanleys that i have restored. So just a heads up from an honest experience.
I use numbers 4, 5 and a block plane for the majority of work, number 6 on the shooting board.
Good old number 7 jointer for edging.
All good planes
Hi Rob one more time a very usefull video.Please a question.If I already have a Stanley #6 I can use the same size of your shooting board or I must to make it little longer?.Thanks for all help.
^ works perfectil on my 18 or 24 inch shooting board
Very informative. Thanks for a great video Rob. Once again, thanks for helping so many of my veteran brothers.
Thanks for sharing those tips!
Thanks for watching and commenting
Thankyou rob great video.
Your videos on dove tailing are the best. Thanks!!!! Couldn't of asked for a better instructor. BTW, when I shut down my shop, I kept my 5.5 and still use it for most any repairs, had a complete set of LN.
Excellent explanation....
Glad you liked it
Thanks Rob!
Another enjoyable and informative video - thanks for all you do
thanks for watching and commenting
Rob what is the smallest Lie Nielson bench plane you’d consider purchasing?
I would add a pro for the #5. When you are tight on budget, it is very easy to find inexpensive old Stanley #5 in really good shape compared to 5-1/2" that are rare and often as expensive as a brand new premium plane.
True, but by the time you tune it up, if you add an after market modern plane iron, which I highly recommend, you are at about 75% of a new plane. So its a tough decision
@@RobCosmanWoodworking right. But I've been lucky finding a Miller Falls #14 (equivalent of a number 5) in perfect condition for 20$. It's a thin blade but for the price it work pretty good.
Would you consider manufacturing a “hot-dog” accessory for shooting with a regular plane? Maybe brass?
Actually we have been working on that for about two years
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Great ! Any way you can showcase a prototype. I bet this would be a hit product! Thanks for everything you do
@@RobCosmanWoodworking My right palm looks forward to seeing the resultant tool.
What is a “hot-dog” accessory?.
@@jimrobinson8167 It's a clip-on doodad that sits on the side of the plane, right where Rob describes in this video. You use it with the shooting board to save your hand, as it can get...uncomfortable...after a while.
Thank you for replying.
I try to always reply in the first 48 hours after posting a video
Very helpful. Thank you.
I like my No. 6, I use it pretty much just as you describe. I find it does as good a job jointing as I need except for some very long pieces where the mass of the jointer made a difference in running the shaving farther. One unusual task is taking really thin shavings of end grain for microscope slides. A sharp No. 6 lifts off perfect shavings, especially with a little alcohol applied to the wood.
Yup the # 6 is a great plane
Another nice thing about the #6 is that they can be had for reasonable prices.
So I was playing on a 2.5 x 2.5" x 5' old red oak and was using my #5 then my #7 and my #6. Out of all of them the #6 was best. Th #5 did not have the mass, the #7 was hard to control on a long push but good old #6 was a dream .
Yup....Thats my experience too. I think you would have also liked th 5-1/2
Great summary! If you had two of every plane, which one would you choose to repurpose as a scrub plane? Thanks! Farmer John, Ontario, Canada
Probably the 4.
Oh man you just gave me a great idea, a 5 1/4 would ROCK for a foreplane.
Its heavy and narrow enough to use all of a camber with the corners of the blade 1/16" back from the center (no idea what radius that gives) narrow so that the scallops don't cause TOO much headache with tip in. And long enough (but not too long) to hand-hold the flatening process a little bit.
Yeah yeah not a mountain dew and protein shake powered thicknesser but a neat thought.
On topic: My favorite scrub is a #3 it can CHEW through 1/2" of wide board face at an absolutely obsciene rate, my #4 just can't match it for full width depth of cut.
I like the honesty of your approach. If you were all about selling your goods then you could give all sorts of reasons why the novice wood worker needs every plane in the range, but you don't. You try and save the novice a heap of money by providing your years of experience, free of charge, to guide them in what they really need. There is surely good karma in that.
I hope so....
@@RobCosmanWoodworking That sound like you think you'll need it. I don't think so. You seem to have devoted your life to doing the right thing. I think you've got a fair bit of credit on the ledger already stowed away.
That is a really nice looking shooting board, too, by the way :)
What iron and chip breaker do you use in your woodriver 5.5.
I recommend and use the chipbreaker and iron that come with it. Sometimes you will see me with an IBC set because I have so many and just keep about 5 sets sharp and reach for whatever is next in line on my bench
Thank you sir.👍
Maybe I missed it but do you ever use and rate Veritas hand planes. They seem to be quite popular and well made. Thank you.
No. Legal issues.
One thing I've always wondered: why is the cutting surface of the plane so close to the front of the sole? Would it be more effective, especially on the bigger planes, to have the cutting edge further back on the sole?
I dont know if Stanley test that snd found the current configuration the best. Its all about applying the right pressure comfortably. With such a low demand for planes today I dont see any plane maker experimenting with the tried and true configuration
I would think it would be less effective. You need to move the plane iron just pass the edge of the wood. The more weight you have on the front, the more tendency you will have to tilt forward since you will have more weight hanging off the edge. If the majority of your weight is behind the blade, the more weight is focused on the flattest surface of your board.
You also only push down on the front when you first start. By the end of the board, all of your pressure should be on the back. Having a heavy back and lighter front helps with that general motion.
@@keats182 Thanks, I never thought about it that way before.
Can a no.4 smooth plane work well similar to a no.5 jack plane. Thank you
Sorry, Rob, but I got the 5. Reasons: 1) Though I'm probably taller than you, my hands are long and slender. I have very strong hands but even at my age I haven't built mass or much fat on my hands. 2) Due to my less-than-ideal "shop," I do in fact often pick up the plane and set (plunk) it down again. I also do not have an actual work bench. I make do however I can. So having a slightly lighter plane is ideal. 3) Cost - The 5 is about $40 less expensive. When I bought it, I also bought other tools to go along w/ it (expensive tenon saw which I don't regret at all) which increased cost and made me hesitant. I'd almost say that cost was my #1 reason that I didn't buy the 5 1/2.
I do in fact almost regret getting the 5 and not the 5 1/2 though. Almost. Sometimes I find that I need more width, or wish I could take off a wider portion to cover more surface area. But the 5 is still a fine tool and has plenty of weight and girth to go through harsh knots in the wood. Combined w/ my old block plane and the cheap #4 plane (which I may convert into a scrub plane, but not yet), the 5 is an excellent workhorse. Maybe some day I'll look for a used 5 1/2 that's in need of TLC. But for now, my #5 is actually really nice.
Great info, Rob~! I love my Woodriver 5 1/2. I'm looking at eventually picking up a jointer plane. I take it that you would recommend a #7 instead of a #6 since I have a 5 1/2 already?
Thanks much~!
Yes, absolutely
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Excellent~! I'll of course have to pick up the plane at Woodcraft since I'm in the US, but I'm coming to you for IBC blades~! :-)
Thank you~!
Very informative. I understand that you work closely with woodriver in developing and improving their planes. Have you concidered producing other planes besides the standard bench ones such as plow planes or tounge and groove planes.
They hired me to help them with their bench planes. I am not a employee of WoodCraft and I have no say so in what planes thay choose tomake. Case in point I recommend they make a scrub plane, but alas they have no scrub plane
Who didn’t see that coming; Rob is inseparable from the 5 1/2! I love that he doesn’t do the stupid things many others do like lifting the plane at the end of the stroke and storing the plane on its side!
I dolove the 5-1/2 but I told everyone that was my bias. I agree with you on lifting th epalne and putting it on its side
Any thoughts on western wooden planes for fulfilling any of the jobs of any of the metal planes?
I prefer metal over wood. Wood moves and they dont have as fine of an adjustment as metal planes in my oppinon
Thanks for the vid, Rob. Like you I am a 5½ fan. I got suckered in to replacing my trusty Stanley Jack with a Veritas low angle as bout two years ago and I hated it. I treated my Stanley to a new Hock blade and am now happy again.
What do you think of the purpose made shooting board planes the Veritas and Lie Neilsen make? Would you be tempted by one, or would you support Woodriver making such a plane?
my bench is too crowded for a single purpose plane, hence the reason I like the 5 1/2, does everything.
What did you do to the hock blade to get it working with the Stanley?
@@tomjudkins3799 Because the Hock blade is thicker than the Stanley, you have to adjust the frog position back towards the handle to allow the blade to seat properly and be able to produce through the sole throat.
I have to completely agree with you on that. :) The tote & knob on the Woodriver planes have a matte finish when new.. did you wax them when new to give them a little protection or did they become shiny after using them for a while?
It’s funny I was thinking the same thing! I think it’s from use.
Thanks Rob for a very informative video for beginners like me. I have a No4 plane. Which one should I add now? No 5 1/2 or No 6? Which one do you recommend
5-1/2 is my preferred, but hard to get now. I don’t think you need a 5-1/2 and a 6 choose one or the other. 6 is easier to find right now so it depends on what you can find
Good video. Just wondering, if you already have the number 5, is the jump worth spending on the 5 and half and shelving the 5?
I wouldn’t “shelf” it, I’d “sell” it!
Hi Rob,
I have a no. 605 and it has a 2 inch blade . I was under the impression that the 605 1/2 was the only number 6 plane with the wider 2 1/4 blade?
That is correct. The 604 and 605 had the 2”, the 604-1/2, 606 and 607 had the 2-3/8”, and the 605-1/2 had the 2-1/4”.
super information, cheers
Thanks for watching and commenting
I have had the Woodriver 4, 5 1/2, and a 6. I haven't had any need for anything else. Great information!
Which of the 3 would you say is your “go to” plane?
My WoodRiver 5 1/2 is about 5 years old now. Can i upgrade it with the new "Star"-Blade-Setscrew? As i have very little hands, i am not able to work your routine "online-bladedepth-setting", my thump doesn't reache the Set-screw, and my indexing alone is not strong enough in this position. As a result i many times preferred using my veritas #4(?) or my old wooden ulmia. I think the "star-setscrew" could solve my problem and get my loved 5 1/2 more into my work! Is it compatible?
Yes, enjoy!
This is not intended to sound smart Alec but if you were edge planing 1/2 or 3/3 because you have reswawn would you use the smaller foot plane to have better balance?
Yes, if I was going to edge plane 1/2” stock I would just use my block plane. For better balance
Thanks
Good info as always Rob. Much appreciated.
I have two Bailey 5 1/2 planes. One has the 2 1/4" blade and the other the 2 3/8" blade. The one with the 2 3/8" blade does not have the smooth frog face like the older one with the narrower blade. All things being equal (condition, sole flatness, etc...) would you use the one with the narrower or wider blade?
Sounds like someone somewhere switch out a bedrock frog fora baily frog. The issue with the 2-1/4 blade is try to find a modern thick blade in that size its hard. The very best thing you can do is put a modern blade in the plane. I guess I would keep the 2-3/8, make sure the frog face is dead flat (Sanding paper on a know flat surface) and get a modern 2-3/8 blade.
I have power tool, incl power planer….but thinking it might be more convenient and faster to peel off an odd millimeter with a small hand plane…maybe a Stanley #4….might even make myself a shooting board. Power tools can be overkill at times…and you can’t (easily) add wood back huh!
Rob, I'll never feel secure with my no 5 now :)
Thanks Rob as usual, great video, very informative. I purchase the WoodRiver Ultimate Bench Plane kit from Woodcraft awhile back consists of a #3, #4, #5, #6 I like the #6 pretty well. What block plane would you recommend Rob? Thanks
WoodRiver or Lie nelson low angle block
You made a remark that you don’t know any reason why a person would own a narrow sole jack plane. I love the plane. My plane is a 6051/4. I didn’t purchase it. I inherited it. when I install replacement windows I have to build an extension jamb. The extension jambs have to be planed down to match the elevation of the gypsum wall board. The 605 1/4 jack is light enough to work with on vertices surfaces. Previously, before owning this jack plane, I used a block plane. The jack allows me to ride long the wall board surface as I reduce the extension jambs to marriage with the level of the wall board. The jack offers enough weight needed make cutting more easily then working with a block plane. It is my go to plane for sizing extension jambs.
No expert on planes here, but here’s a comparison a hockey guy like Rob might enjoy. Maybe the size of the plane choice is like the selection of a hockey stick for length and lie. All things being equal a long stick is an advantage, but for some the shorter stick is easier to handle. And Zdeno Charo needs a stick that could do double duty in the pole vault.
I should have said that!!
Do you recommend upgrading the iron on the WR 5 1/2?
I think the irons from woodriver are quite good. They take a very keen edge, they come very flat, and they hold up pretty well
Tom is on the money. The WR blades arevery good. You can spend a lot of money on a better blade but you will only see about a 5% improvement. If you want that go ahead,but its not neccessary
The reason I use a 5 is that it was my great grandfather's. This plane just speaks to me.
Now we just need wood river to get more produced so I can buy one. Otherwise, I'm going to have to wait until I get to your class so I can buy one while I'm there.
My no 6 is my favorite plane to use. Especially on the shooting board. I don't have a 5 1/2 tho. Unless you count my Ohio tools version, but that thing is real finicky.
A # 6 is a great plane
You my boy blue!
Not sure what that means...but it sounds good!
If I've got a 5 1/2, why would i need a 4 or 4 1/2?
In a 1958 Stanley Catalog it state's in the plane section (page 36) " Did you know that "Jack" Plane is short for "Jackass" Plane; an appropriate name for the Plane that is used for the hardest and roughest kind of work.). That should be an authority enough for the name even though the "Jack of All Trades" may be more politically correct in todays world
Further, in Wikipedia (not that is something to call official) it states " The name jack plane dates back to at least the 17th century, and was a term used to describe many tools used for rough work. Being a common first name the term jack came to be used disdainful name for the common man."
Very interesting comments thats for the info.....now we know
Yep, a Jack plane was used with a cambered iron and across the grain, it was a roughing tool back in the day :)
I would agree on the 5 1/2. It’s my do most everything plane. Just need to get me some adjustars!
Me to.My 5-1/2 is my go to plane. we have adjustars waiting for you
Not too ... Goldilocks would have liked the 5 1/2. Thanks for the information and the video!
Did you mean the 5-1/4?
No low angle jack?
sorry, yuck!
@@RobCosmanWoodworking
Yuck as in you forgot?
or
Yuck I'd NEVER have one?
Thoughts?
ruclips.net/video/DqXINyj3rB4/видео.html
The 5 is more useable for a person of small frame, eg: a woman.
5 1/2 is too bulky and heavy for stock removal without getting exhausted. 5 is the ideal jack plane
Lift some more weights…
I dont see why there is a hype for the nr 5 plane in the woodworking community. The nr 5 makes sense if your only going to buy one plane. But its not the best plane for any task. The nr 4 is a better smoother and easier to use. For heavy stook removal i put in another blade in it. For jointing its better with something loonger than the nr 5. I use a wooden jointer plane becose the stanley nr 7 is to heavy.
A tool needs to feel right in the hand. Some will want big and heavy, some not so much. One should own many planes so you have choice. cost mmm! build your collection over time. I have 30 planes, old and new, low end to high end, new and old, no 5 acorn nice in hand.
How much did you buy this hand plane and from where?
We sell them on our website at RobCosman. Com. If you are in the US you must purchase them from Woodcraft.
Ok... I change all weights to KGs that's what we are familiar with safer to use.
In England we say "Jack of all trades and master of none".
This might be the 2nd or 3rd worst information videos I’ve ever seen……….no wait … it’s the 3 & 7/8th worst, no…. I think its the 2.369th worst video, no wait i think it might be the 1.7563rd worst video, no wait…………😂😂
You sound like the kind of person that recommends your first plane to be a palm sander?
I'M ASKING SANTA FOR THE 5-1/2....