I bought reheat-able finger hot pads or finger hot wraps and use them daily while I’m at the house. They have worked miracles and have healed my chronic finger pain from over use. Hopefully this info can help someone else. Cheers!
@@Eqnotalent the heat promotes blood circulation. Cold is for an initial injury then its best to use heat. I tried both and had way more success with heat.
Wow. Very informative. I will try these therapies for my Synovitis in the DIPs. At Age 72 ~~ this aging Ain't for sissies. As a Drummer and Keyboardist ~ it's all catching up to me. I can't see EVER stopping these activities. Thanks Again.
I have hypermobile wrists and fingers and get synovitis more often than I like, I find light compression gloves worn overnight help mine. The tendon glides (and generally just moving fingers and hands about as much as possible) are definitely a thumbs up from me too, I think keeping a good blood flow to your fingers is really the key to recovery.
People have gotten rid of synovitis with cortisone shots, oral steroids, large amounts of tumeric pills, and doing finger rolls starting with lightweight and going to 40lbs over time
I have been dealing with this on and off for the last few years. Some things that help with mine: gently straightening the PIP joint with my other hand helps me a bunch. Temporarily replacing some climbing sessions with hangboarding also allows me to continue to train whilst reducing the irritation. Whole food diet and fish oil in particular seem to help. Lastly alcohol exacerbates mine, beer in particular (no fun I know)
I'll echo the no alcohol experience. For the last 4 or 5 years, my right hand and fingers would get swollen after climbing. It was often bad enough that the day after a good session, I had a hard time making a fist. I just attributed this to getting older and probably some sort of arthritis. Five months ago, I stopped drinking (almost) completely (I used to have 2 beers most nights). I'm now on a one beer every 4 or 5 weeks plan. That swelling and stiffness has been reduced by about 85%, to the point that it feels like I think should after a good session.
@@sirhenrystalwart8303 this is a pretty obvious and easy win. Sugar causes inflammation (ie alcohol breaks down in to sugar). And so reducing sugar is reducing the inflammation in the body.
I rode a skateboard to a full stop on my knuckles while doing a handstand as a kid. Ground my knuckles to the bone. I also was a tree climber (arborist) for 7 years after. My thumb index and middle finger are 3 times normal size and getting worse
I had to stop the climb that I started late (24-25 years old) because for three years I have had joint swelling at the level of the pips of each major visible on the MRI and by ultrasound diagnosed as synovitis ...however despite an ultrasound-guided injection of corticosteroids in each middle finger, the problem never seems to have gone away from my left middle finger and the right one which seemed healed is starting to hurt again after I resumed climbing this year . I have so to speak no more medical follow-up because my official doctor tells me himself that he does not know enough about this field.. so I went "into the hands" of two rheumatologists and several hand specialists. .and the result is not clear. For some, it may result from an inflammatory problem but vague and undefined because everything is OK in rheumatological biology (NSA prescriptions to be taken and bone scan to be done to look for something .....) and for the hand doctors it's purely mechanical (a result of climbing.) but when it comes to the way of dealing with or even knowing if I can still climb or even adopt certain strategies, I haven't learned anything concrete so far. So far I have had various pains which have appeared in both knees, foot and back which suggest an inflammatory problem but nothing on the imaging, no inflammatory schedules or swelling and warmth, only a diagnosis of patellar syndrome for knees. I'm getting a bit saturated in a spiral without a solution where the problems seem to add up as I struggle to practice an activity that does me good at all levels as well as mentally. Inflammatory or not, I have the I feel like my pips don't want to flare up. I am currently in Lyon in France and no real solution. thanks for reading 😉
Hi! Thank you for sharing this video. My joints are swollen for months. It starts painful when I tried to curl my fingers and completely stretching them. I couldn’t tho there’s a gap. It gets better when I stop climbing for two three days. The physicians here are not experienced enough for climbing injuries unfortunately.
Never climbed a day in my life but I got myself a factory job recently and ever since then, I’ve been waking up with swollen fingers (especially around the PIP joint) on both my middle and ring fingers. In the mornings, my fingers are so stiff that I can’t make a closed fist right away. I need to keep opening and closing my hand as much as I can until I get a good range of motion back. I hope this is just the process of gaining finger strength and not me doing permanent damage to my joints. I’ll guess I’ll have to see a doctor if this keeps happening.
My left hand index finger hurts (a little swollen) from constant laptop mouse clicking. Do does these methods still apply ? And how long will the healing take ?
Wow! traction got rid of pain immediately in my ring finger distal joint (probably extra unhappy from years of abuse from holding a pen wrong -- in a vise grip pressing the pen into that join _hard_). Thank you!!!!!!
i had approximately 5 years ago hit my finger on a ball and since then my joint is swollen and thicker then normal.. the swelling never did go away and the thickening.. but i can fully move my finger and do not have pain (i can also extend my finger more then normal like hyperextension because of the injury i had).. is this situation normal?
Found this page, really good info, thank you. I play guitar and have 0 pain, really strong fingers, but as soon as I make a bar shape chord with my first finger I get sharp pain in the DIP joint. More on the inside, almost feels like a nerve or tendon.
Honestly, I had to ask Emile what a "bar shape chord" meant. I don't play guitar lol, unless you the short riff in smoke on the water ;) Unless you had a trauma, your injury is more likely an overuse injury? Unless your hyperextending a lot, it's more likely your FDP tendon. Would definitely need more information to help out.
Hooper's Beta went to the PT, said the joint is slightly misaligned, causing the discomfort. When she pulled it out slightly, creating separation, the pain diminished. Nonetheless, huge bummer.
My left middle finger distal joint started getting swollen and painful over the past year. I've been climbing 2-3 times a week. I had x-rays done and it said arthritis. What can I do to heal this and prevent this?
Nope... I went to see an ortho hand doctor and he said there's nothing to do except take NSAIDs. It's frustrating as all hell, I feel so helpless to proactively do anything about it. Hand doctor said "if it's bad enough", he could fuse it, but then he would fuse the finger straight, which doesn't help at ALL. @@carsythe
You advice is helping my condition from yesterday that I got while playing Valorant (PC FPS Game). I suspect it is DIP synovitis then and I just need to press the D key a bit less hard in general.
Hi really helpful video! Should i use the colban tape while climbing or when i'm not climbing? And how long should I have it on (Will a whole day be too long or does it not matter?) :)
If you get the pressure right, you can use it all day. I would recommend giving it a break midday though. I don't recommend wearing it during climbing though. Great questions!
same here, been climbing since a kid and been really careful never to have a finger injury, but my joints are very slightly swelled nonetheless - seems it must be bone growth? (have full mobility, slight bruising pain if I press really hard on joints)
One seemingly miracle linament is Ti Da Jau , martial artists use this for injuries... sprains, bruising, damaged ligaments, from striking wooden things, bricks and faces. You're welcome
Thank you so much for this amazing video! I am dealing with synovitis in the DIP Joint (middle finger) every time I start to climb on boards (kilter, grashopper etc.) more often. Resting and your mobilization exercises help a lot! I have one additional question: how should I tackle board climbing to prevent synovitis in the future? I already tried a more volume based approach and still got it. What do you guys think would be a sustainable way? (The thing is: I only get it from board climbing. Hangboarding, “normal” bouldering and sport climbing never caused it.)
Hmm, that’s a tricky one. Considering the boards seem to be the only things causing the issue, you might want to try to get more specific in your observations. Is it a particular type of hold on the board that makes things worse? Are you using a specific grip type more frequently (or constantly) on the board compared to regular climbing and hangboarding? Are you doing more violent/torquey/snatchy moves to un-ergonomic holds on the board? It might be useful to identify what specific aspect of board climbing is causing the problem and then modify from there. For example, if board climbing involves way more full crimping than you’d be doing otherwise, you may want to try to vary your grip more on the board (consciously practice other grips or use holds that encourage other grips) or reduce board climbing a bit and fill in with other training/climbing elsewhere. You could just be doing too much of one thing. Hope that helps! -Emile
Thank your for this thoughtful response Emile! I think it could really be the full crimping, that causes the issue. I think that I use it differently (more dynamic) than normally, so that might be a way to change it up. I think I will try your suggested approach to thoughtfully climb open handed more. Thank you very much again!
I have almost exactly this problem and for me I’m on the shorter side so my observation is board climbing leads to a lot of jumping and dynamic moves with far away gastons (the exacerbating wrist positions mentioned in a different video on collateral ligaments). I guess my strategy would be to try and find beta that uses feet more and stop trying to make up reach issues with feet cutting.
Have you or anyone here developed persistent swelling or some numbness in their thumbs and fingertips from high repetition dumbbells, kettlebells or barbell exercises? What did you do to recover from the problem?
Does cracking your knuckles have any effect on hardworking climbing fingers? Is it creating more trauma to the extra sensitive joints, or the action doesn’t affect the fingers in the same way?
Cracking your knuckles is simply expanding the joint space far enough for that individual to cause a cavitation. This is a harmless activity when there is strength to support the joint. It is only harmful if you are continually doing it and increasing the joint space and don't have supporting strength of the surrounding musculature. Example: if you have neck pain due to weak cervical paraspinals / stabilizer muscles and you continually crack your neck / increase the joint space, you aren't really solving the problem even though cracking it feels good, you're just masking the problem. But again with your question, it shouldn't be a problem unless you have instability of the joint or some other issue.
Thanks for the video, I’ve been struggling with with synovitis (I think) on multiple fingers for a while now. So the Koban tape is meant to just be worn throughout the day when both not climbing and also climbing?
Is there a test/way to check if I have synovitis or bony growth? My PIP joints are swollen and I don't feel a lot of pain but my ROM is really limited and I can't make a full fist.
1.I have pain in my right hand index finger 😢, seems it is caused by using mouse... 2.There seems to be a very little swelling just above the joint of index finger ...Not sure if it is some fluid or some air that's blocked at the joint of my index finger. Could you please help
Wrapping the fingers is impossible when you work a job all day where you have to be able to wash your hands constantly and wearing gloves is OUT!! Are we supposed to wrap and unwrap all day? 😕who has time for that?
I get a slight sensation of pain when I press down on the second joint of the middle finger. But only on my left hand. I know this because I usually crack my fingers that way, but I suddenly couldn't on my left hands middle finger. Cracking on the same fingers first joint is fine though. I climb alot, and never have any sensation of pain whilst climbing and not afterwards for that matter, only when I try to crack the finger on that specific part. Any thoughts on this?
I just began climbing and my fingers hurt. I suppose its normal, but i dont know if i should keep climbing the way i do... Specialy when i use small crimps. I cant keep my end joints bended. I have to rely on them "locking" in full extension. Top of my knuckles hurt a bit. Is it okay or very bad to do so?
You probably aren't accustomed to them locking into full extension, but that is a "normal" crimp. The pain on the top of the knuckle can mean you are perhaps a bit hypermobile, or pulling on small edges at an intensity that is just above what your fingers can currently tolerate. I wouldn't ignore the symptoms either way, though.
@@HoopersBeta okay thanks. It takes me about 5-7 days to recover my strength and tolerance, but it still hurts a little bit... I dont know if i should tape my fingers to try and help the symptoms. Ive been to the gym 6 times now in about 5 weeks.... Does that seem "normal" for a begginner? V4-v5-v6.... Some v5 and v6 have really small crimps... These are probably too hard for my joints cause im just beggining...
I injured my finger while doing deadlifts... I guess there was no mind-muscle connection and I ended up lifting the weight primarily with my fingers, it was hurting the next day but I decided to do it again 🙈 and now it's swollen and won't heal... does my injury fall under the second category?
Lately my right pointer finger Has been swollen a lot and sore but I don’t know why I mean I do have arthritis but it’s just this one finger is acting up really bad and it’s been bothering me and I use my hands a lot at my job so that makes it harder because my hands don’t wanna cooperate
I'm curious about what you think of those curly metallic rings that you find in climbing stores? They look like those springs you find in pens, a metallic coil that is connected end to end. I've seen people swear by them that it cured them of synovitis by rolling the coil up and down their finger. I've never tried them but am very curious
Those are essentially just massage rings. It will massage the soft tissue/tendons/joints when you roll it over your finger. This will definitely provide relief for sore fingers, but it won't cure synovitis or injuries by itself it will just provide temporary relief of symptoms like massaging any other muscle. If used in combination with the standard stuff talked about on this channel like finger gliding/pen rolling/loading/mobilisation/etc. then it fits into a healthy maintenance routine for your fingers. They're dirt cheap so try one and if you don't like it pass it on to someone else.
As someone who I think may have synovitis and also own acupressure rings. When it was really swollen , it felt god like , like it was a really satisfying tickling feeling and it really felt like it was forcing blood into it. I had no clue people swore by it. I just listen to my body and my body said holy hell I like this
@@HoopersBeta Thanks for the clarification. Climbing seems to aggravate inflammation in my DIP joint consistently now. I think its the beginning of nodal osteoarthritis, which my mom has. Wearing coban tape the next day after climbing seems to have helped a lot so far. Ill keep trying it.
My dog pulled my and I hold him back with the leash popped my middle finger, swollen. Now it pains a lot, couldn't carry my cup, open the lids, handle knife or scissors etc :(
I got my A3(pip) joint hurt in bjj, I tried different stuff, rest, medicine, long wave recovery therapy but it's still not bigger then before, I guess it s swollen especially every night or morning and getting better during the day? please tell me will this method u showed with wrapping finger will help me or it has nothing to do with joint recovery?
Best bet is to see a specialist and find out what they recommend. A common issue there is joint hyper mobility which can cause inflammation/swelling and needs to be addressed with appropriate strengthening
Sir my three fingers of left hand are stretched in opposite direction 5 months ago and my bones are not fractured but my fingers joints are very painful and swelling and in winter it is very painful i can't move my it orthopedics are just recommending me medicines but its not even little bit better even my middle finger ligament is producing tak tak sounds when i moving it please for god tell me the good treatment 😢😢😢😢😢😢😢
Sorry to hear about your injury! Sounds like you should see a physical therapist for rehab advice. You can schedule an online consult with Jason through our website (hoopersbeta.com) if you’d like. -Emile
I have synovial joint is very big on 6 of my fingers i want to get surgery to have them remove this or atleast decrease the size of it if possible im only 24 years old. I have no pain at all either
What should you do if you have a collateral ligament sprain on the dip joint? I injured the outside of my pinky finger dip joint, and the doctor is having me just splint it up, but doesn't seem to be feeling any better. Any exercises or taping that helps support that area better than a classic finger brace?
Hard to say depending on the severity, but if it isn't that bad, typically it doesn't feel much better because you aren't getting any range of motion through the joint being in the brace. So, it gets stiff and may even get slightly more swollen without the movement which won't feel good. Again, it will depend on the severity, but you may want to move the finger more to keep the joint mobility and tissue mobility healthy.
Hooper's Beta great, thank you. I only got pain when the finger joint moved inward or got bumped towards the midline of the hand. So I was trying to immobilize it as much as possible. The ligament developed a slight bump on the outside of the joint. Injured 2 months ago, didn’t hurt until a month ago, now I’ve braces for 3 straight weeks.
@@jeffvictor Hey Jeff, could you provide any update for yourself? I have a very similar injury and timeline to you but in the ring finger. Just swelling primarily but I've been avoiding crimping for the last two months. The bump just won't go away...
@@ethanbarker2159 the doctor had me splint it for a month. Then I had it checked again and they ultrasounded the joint to make sure there wasn't any tears. After that I just slowly started to move it again and find the range of motion. Took about 3 more months before it felt close to normal again. Everyonce and a while it still bothers me if I bump it to hard, but honestly I don't think about it anymore.
You're right, it won't be a tool that everyone can utilize :/ Many people still will be able to so it's worth sharing. But it's also not an absolute cure so use it when you can, or don't.
Im having pain in the bending joints of my pointing finger I just woke up having pain. When i rest my finger down its super painful as the blood pressure goes down and its so painful to bend my finger without any wrapped cloth
Hard to say as a general rule of thumb. If you are able to isolate it and it does not exacerbate your symptoms, then it is OK to do. If it does cause any exacerbation, you want to reduce so that you are not continuing to flair up your symptoms.
Great and helpful video! I have synovitis on my right middle PIP for 2 months now. I took a week off climbing and the swelling is still there. While doing the tendon gliding exercise, the middle finger can't fully contract and touch the base of the finger (@7:35 ruclips.net/video/8dvfuGfsQ9I/видео.html). Have tried massaging and pulling on the joint lightly but it still hurts when climbing sometimes. Any advise would be great!
Keep it up! Synovitis often develops quite slowly (may have been building for longer than the 2 months you mentioned) and you have possibly been progressively loosing your range of motion. It takes time to come back. Keep up with the tendon gliding and joint mobility work. You definitely want to also look at how often you are climbing and training and what caused the issue to develop in the first place.
I bought reheat-able finger hot pads or finger hot wraps and use them daily while I’m at the house. They have worked miracles and have healed my chronic finger pain from over use. Hopefully this info can help someone else. Cheers!
Hi where i can buy this?
Amazon prime. Look around you can find it.
Definitely worth it!
Links are nice ❤
Hot pads? Don’t they said u want to ice it to stop the swollen and pain from over use?
@@Eqnotalent the heat promotes blood circulation. Cold is for an initial injury then its best to use heat. I tried both and had way more success with heat.
I have this problem and it's not easy to live with. Sometimes I have to do a lot of writing and I can barely hold the pen.
Wow. Very informative. I will try these therapies for my Synovitis in the DIPs. At Age 72 ~~ this aging Ain't for sissies.
As a Drummer and Keyboardist ~ it's all catching up to me. I can't see EVER stopping these activities. Thanks Again.
Thank you. Very good info. Speaker has a good voice to listen to for learning. Also fun to see the “out-takes” with laughter! Great job.
I have hypermobile wrists and fingers and get synovitis more often than I like, I find light compression gloves worn overnight help mine. The tendon glides (and generally just moving fingers and hands about as much as possible) are definitely a thumbs up from me too, I think keeping a good blood flow to your fingers is really the key to recovery.
People have gotten rid of synovitis with cortisone shots, oral steroids, large amounts of tumeric pills, and doing finger rolls starting with lightweight and going to 40lbs over time
I have been dealing with this on and off for the last few years. Some things that help with mine: gently straightening the PIP joint with my other hand helps me a bunch. Temporarily replacing some climbing sessions with hangboarding also allows me to continue to train whilst reducing the irritation. Whole food diet and fish oil in particular seem to help. Lastly alcohol exacerbates mine, beer in particular (no fun I know)
I'll echo the no alcohol experience. For the last 4 or 5 years, my right hand and fingers would get swollen after climbing. It was often bad enough that the day after a good session, I had a hard time making a fist. I just attributed this to getting older and probably some sort of arthritis. Five months ago, I stopped drinking (almost) completely (I used to have 2 beers most nights). I'm now on a one beer every 4 or 5 weeks plan. That swelling and stiffness has been reduced by about 85%, to the point that it feels like I think should after a good session.
@@sirhenrystalwart8303 this is a pretty obvious and easy win. Sugar causes inflammation (ie alcohol breaks down in to sugar). And so reducing sugar is reducing the inflammation in the body.
Would be nice to see close ups of the finger digits so we can see which is which and what you are doing
I love the way you smile. 😍 Voice is beautiful. I had a bad arthritis for 10 years from head to toe. Its interesting for me to visit your channel.
I rode a skateboard to a full stop on my knuckles while doing a handstand as a kid. Ground my knuckles to the bone. I also was a tree climber (arborist) for 7 years after. My thumb index and middle finger are 3 times normal size and getting worse
😂 the cuteness in the early episodes!
I had to stop the climb that I started late (24-25 years old) because for three years I have had joint swelling at the level of the pips of each major visible on the MRI and by ultrasound diagnosed as synovitis ...however despite an ultrasound-guided injection of corticosteroids in each middle finger, the problem never seems to have gone away from my left middle finger and the right one which seemed healed is starting to hurt again after I resumed climbing this year . I have so to speak no more medical follow-up because my official doctor tells me himself that he does not know enough about this field.. so I went "into the hands" of two rheumatologists and several hand specialists. .and the result is not clear. For some, it may result from an inflammatory problem but vague and undefined because everything is OK in rheumatological biology (NSA prescriptions to be taken and bone scan to be done to look for something .....) and for the hand doctors it's purely mechanical (a result of climbing.) but when it comes to the way of dealing with or even knowing if I can still climb or even adopt certain strategies, I haven't learned anything concrete so far. So far I have had various pains which have appeared in both knees, foot and back which suggest an inflammatory problem but nothing on the imaging, no inflammatory schedules or swelling and warmth, only a diagnosis of patellar syndrome for knees. I'm getting a bit saturated in a spiral without a solution where the problems seem to add up as I struggle to practice an activity that does me good at all levels as well as mentally. Inflammatory or not, I have the I feel like my pips don't want to flare up. I am currently in Lyon in France and no real solution. thanks for reading 😉
Still havent found?
Hi! Thank you for sharing this video. My joints are swollen for months. It starts painful when I tried to curl my fingers and completely stretching them. I couldn’t tho there’s a gap. It gets better when I stop climbing for two three days. The physicians here are not experienced enough for climbing injuries unfortunately.
Never climbed a day in my life but I got myself a factory job recently and ever since then, I’ve been waking up with swollen fingers (especially around the PIP joint) on both my middle and ring fingers. In the mornings, my fingers are so stiff that I can’t make a closed fist right away. I need to keep opening and closing my hand as much as I can until I get a good range of motion back. I hope this is just the process of gaining finger strength and not me doing permanent damage to my joints. I’ll guess I’ll have to see a doctor if this keeps happening.
Sorry to hear that! Keep an eye on it and as you said, may want to get it checked out if it keeps happening.
You’re my hero Hooper! Thanks for all the incredible information
Is this taping method only for relief or can be used for climbing?
Awesome video, as always, keep up the good work,
but what about the "Volar plate" injury,
what can I do there apart from just rest ?
My left hand index finger hurts (a little swollen) from constant laptop mouse clicking. Do does these methods still apply ? And how long will the healing take ?
THINK THATS HOW IVE GOT AND GAMING AND PUSHING MYSELF OF MY BED WITH MY KNUCKLES HAD MINE 2 MONTHS NOW , GONNA TRY CASTOR OIL AND ICE FOR A BIT
Wow! traction got rid of pain immediately in my ring finger distal joint (probably extra unhappy from years of abuse from holding a pen wrong -- in a vise grip pressing the pen into that join _hard_). Thank you!!!!!!
That's awesome!!! Glad it helped :)
@@HoopersBeta I'm doing it after every bouldering session and it's still helping. Huge thanks!
i had approximately 5 years ago hit my finger on a ball and since then my joint is swollen and thicker then normal.. the swelling never did go away and the thickening.. but i can fully move my finger and do not have pain (i can also extend my finger more then normal like hyperextension because of the injury i had).. is this situation normal?
That sounds possibly like a volar plate injury/tear, especially with the hyperextension.
@@HoopersBeta i see.. would there be a need for a surgery since i can move my finger or wont the swelling go away anymore?
Found this page, really good info, thank you. I play guitar and have 0 pain, really strong fingers, but as soon as I make a bar shape chord with my first finger I get sharp pain in the DIP joint. More on the inside, almost feels like a nerve or tendon.
Honestly, I had to ask Emile what a "bar shape chord" meant. I don't play guitar lol, unless you the short riff in smoke on the water ;) Unless you had a trauma, your injury is more likely an overuse injury? Unless your hyperextending a lot, it's more likely your FDP tendon. Would definitely need more information to help out.
Hooper's Beta went to the PT, said the joint is slightly misaligned, causing the discomfort. When she pulled it out slightly, creating separation, the pain diminished. Nonetheless, huge bummer.
I have the same problem discussed in video..
4months since the injury
90degree movement in PIPjoint and swelling
My left middle finger distal joint started getting swollen and painful over the past year. I've been climbing 2-3 times a week. I had x-rays done and it said arthritis. What can I do to heal this and prevent this?
any sol
Have you come up with any effective treatment for your arthritis?
Nope... I went to see an ortho hand doctor and he said there's nothing to do except take NSAIDs. It's frustrating as all hell, I feel so helpless to proactively do anything about it. Hand doctor said "if it's bad enough", he could fuse it, but then he would fuse the finger straight, which doesn't help at ALL. @@carsythe
Try doing massage therapy for 32 years...will try the coban taping, thanks!
Or it could be a Heberden node from Arthritis
You advice is helping my condition from yesterday that I got while playing Valorant (PC FPS Game). I suspect it is DIP synovitis then and I just need to press the D key a bit less hard in general.
That's awesome that it is helping! And I love that you figured out the long term solution as well ;) haha.
This sweaty guy is really helpful
Haha thank you! It was definitely hot in the gym that day ;)
Hi really helpful video! Should i use the colban tape while climbing or when i'm not climbing? And how long should I have it on (Will a whole day be too long or does it not matter?) :)
If you get the pressure right, you can use it all day. I would recommend giving it a break midday though. I don't recommend wearing it during climbing though. Great questions!
@@HoopersBeta Alright and thanks alot for the reply! Look forward to more videos they are really helpful:)
Love the video, thank you!
I have one of these spiral finger massage rings, that helps me, too.
Do these tips also apply to the distal big toe joint?
I’ve a bone growth as you were mentioning in the begining, what should I do in this case ?
Is it a comon injury ? (Never heard of it before mine)
same here, been climbing since a kid and been really careful never to have a finger injury, but my joints are very slightly swelled nonetheless - seems it must be bone growth? (have full mobility, slight bruising pain if I press really hard on joints)
I've had my swollen finger for 4 years and do you think it can still heal?
I'd assume it could.
One seemingly miracle linament is Ti Da Jau , martial artists use this for injuries... sprains, bruising, damaged ligaments, from striking wooden things, bricks and faces. You're welcome
Excellent as always
Thank you so much for this amazing video! I am dealing with synovitis in the DIP Joint (middle finger) every time I start to climb on boards (kilter, grashopper etc.) more often. Resting and your mobilization exercises help a lot!
I have one additional question: how should I tackle board climbing to prevent synovitis in the future? I already tried a more volume based approach and still got it. What do you guys think would be a sustainable way?
(The thing is: I only get it from board climbing. Hangboarding, “normal” bouldering and sport climbing never caused it.)
Hmm, that’s a tricky one. Considering the boards seem to be the only things causing the issue, you might want to try to get more specific in your observations. Is it a particular type of hold on the board that makes things worse? Are you using a specific grip type more frequently (or constantly) on the board compared to regular climbing and hangboarding? Are you doing more violent/torquey/snatchy moves to un-ergonomic holds on the board? It might be useful to identify what specific aspect of board climbing is causing the problem and then modify from there. For example, if board climbing involves way more full crimping than you’d be doing otherwise, you may want to try to vary your grip more on the board (consciously practice other grips or use holds that encourage other grips) or reduce board climbing a bit and fill in with other training/climbing elsewhere. You could just be doing too much of one thing. Hope that helps!
-Emile
Thank your for this thoughtful response Emile!
I think it could really be the full crimping, that causes the issue. I think that I use it differently (more dynamic) than normally, so that might be a way to change it up.
I think I will try your suggested approach to thoughtfully climb open handed more.
Thank you very much again!
I have almost exactly this problem and for me I’m on the shorter side so my observation is board climbing leads to a lot of jumping and dynamic moves with far away gastons (the exacerbating wrist positions mentioned in a different video on collateral ligaments). I guess my strategy would be to try and find beta that uses feet more and stop trying to make up reach issues with feet cutting.
Have you or anyone here developed persistent swelling or some numbness in their thumbs and fingertips from high repetition dumbbells, kettlebells or barbell exercises?
What did you do to recover from the problem?
So, if we do suspect synovitis, is it time to stay off the wall until it feels better? 🙏
How to treat that bony growth? I injured my finger and its been 11 months already…pain is still there
Does cracking your knuckles have any effect on hardworking climbing fingers? Is it creating more trauma to the extra sensitive joints, or the action doesn’t affect the fingers in the same way?
Cracking your knuckles is simply expanding the joint space far enough for that individual to cause a cavitation. This is a harmless activity when there is strength to support the joint. It is only harmful if you are continually doing it and increasing the joint space and don't have supporting strength of the surrounding musculature. Example: if you have neck pain due to weak cervical paraspinals / stabilizer muscles and you continually crack your neck / increase the joint space, you aren't really solving the problem even though cracking it feels good, you're just masking the problem. But again with your question, it shouldn't be a problem unless you have instability of the joint or some other issue.
Thanks for the video, I’ve been struggling with with synovitis (I think) on multiple fingers for a while now. So the Koban tape is meant to just be worn throughout the day when both not climbing and also climbing?
but everytime i apply bandage its like it has a heart beat and keep beating
2 week ago since this happen to me what i do is it need to get a wound then treat inside
Thank you for this information.
Does the 4 Caues can be diagnoised in MRI or any other thing
Is there a test/way to check if I have synovitis or bony growth? My PIP joints are swollen and I don't feel a lot of pain but my ROM is really limited and I can't make a full fist.
Would likely need imaging such as an x-ray.
How can you tell the difference between synovitis and collateral ligament damage?
Probably MRI, but not sure 100 percent
1.I have pain in my right hand index finger 😢, seems it is caused by using mouse...
2.There seems to be a very little swelling just above the joint of index finger ...Not sure if it is some fluid or some air that's blocked at the joint of my index finger.
Could you please help
I can’t move my finger as good and it looks faster from shoveling snow so how do you like not have the pain anymore
You just gave me kinky ideas with colban. You think it'll help with the "swelling"?🙃😁
RUclips don't demonetize us!! :P Lolz
-Emile
Wrapping the fingers is impossible when you work a job all day where you have to be able to wash your hands constantly and wearing gloves is OUT!! Are we supposed to wrap and unwrap all day? 😕who has time for that?
I get a slight sensation of pain when I press down on the second joint of the middle finger. But only on my left hand. I know this because I usually crack my fingers that way, but I suddenly couldn't on my left hands middle finger. Cracking on the same fingers first joint is fine though. I climb alot, and never have any sensation of pain whilst climbing and not afterwards for that matter, only when I try to crack the finger on that specific part. Any thoughts on this?
My finger got poked by a spike stuck to my volleyball, what should I do?
Gg for the fingers
I’ve been to The Wall before it’s a good gym
Is icing useful for swelling at the joints?
Hey good night my fingers swell and a pain me what can I use to make the swell gone
I just began climbing and my fingers hurt. I suppose its normal, but i dont know if i should keep climbing the way i do... Specialy when i use small crimps. I cant keep my end joints bended. I have to rely on them "locking" in full extension. Top of my knuckles hurt a bit. Is it okay or very bad to do so?
You probably aren't accustomed to them locking into full extension, but that is a "normal" crimp. The pain on the top of the knuckle can mean you are perhaps a bit hypermobile, or pulling on small edges at an intensity that is just above what your fingers can currently tolerate. I wouldn't ignore the symptoms either way, though.
@@HoopersBeta okay thanks. It takes me about 5-7 days to recover my strength and tolerance, but it still hurts a little bit... I dont know if i should tape my fingers to try and help the symptoms. Ive been to the gym 6 times now in about 5 weeks.... Does that seem "normal" for a begginner? V4-v5-v6.... Some v5 and v6 have really small crimps... These are probably too hard for my joints cause im just beggining...
I'm a gamer and i have this problem Pip problem in 3 of my central fingers it's so painful 😭😭😭😭😥
Sorry to hear it! Sadly, it's likely from overuse :( / (or just rage smashing the buttons too many times ;) :)
thank you so much man
So how can we tell if we actually have synovitis vs the other issues?
I injured my finger while doing deadlifts... I guess there was no mind-muscle connection and I ended up lifting the weight primarily with my fingers, it was hurting the next day but I decided to do it again 🙈 and now it's swollen and won't heal... does my injury fall under the second category?
How is your Finger now ? I injured my finger while deadlifting too
First video I found on the subject but I can't see your finger from 20 feet away
Lately my right pointer finger Has been swollen a lot and sore but I don’t know why I mean I do have arthritis but it’s just this one finger is acting up really bad and it’s been bothering me and I use my hands a lot at my job so that makes it harder because my hands don’t wanna cooperate
Still hurts?
@@truechamp3404 yeah but I think now it’s just my arthritis
Who pumped nitrous oxide into the gym at the end?
We apprehended the culprit. Hopefully it doesn't happen again.
Good video, but for the love of god, make the music the same audio level as the speech. Have to keep adjusting volume on speakers because of that.
I'm curious about what you think of those curly metallic rings that you find in climbing stores? They look like those springs you find in pens, a metallic coil that is connected end to end. I've seen people swear by them that it cured them of synovitis by rolling the coil up and down their finger. I've never tried them but am very curious
Those are essentially just massage rings. It will massage the soft tissue/tendons/joints when you roll it over your finger. This will definitely provide relief for sore fingers, but it won't cure synovitis or injuries by itself it will just provide temporary relief of symptoms like massaging any other muscle.
If used in combination with the standard stuff talked about on this channel like finger gliding/pen rolling/loading/mobilisation/etc. then it fits into a healthy maintenance routine for your fingers. They're dirt cheap so try one and if you don't like it pass it on to someone else.
As someone who I think may have synovitis and also own acupressure rings. When it was really swollen , it felt god like , like it was a really satisfying tickling feeling and it really felt like it was forcing blood into it. I had no clue people swore by it. I just listen to my body and my body said holy hell I like this
Can I do Hot/cold water to reduce swelling?
Is the coban tape something to do while climbing? Or after climbing to manage swelling?
Personally, I haven't used it with climbing but that's because I imagine it would slide and/or break down quite quickly. I would use it after.
@@HoopersBeta Thanks for the clarification. Climbing seems to aggravate inflammation in my DIP joint consistently now. I think its the beginning of nodal osteoarthritis, which my mom has. Wearing coban tape the next day after climbing seems to have helped a lot so far. Ill keep trying it.
Any tips for synovitis in knuckle pinky finger?
My dog pulled my and I hold him back with the leash popped my middle finger, swollen. Now it pains a lot, couldn't carry my cup, open the lids, handle knife or scissors etc :(
Ouch! Sorry to hear that :/
@@HoopersBeta Thanks, will this help my condition too?
damn, I so wanted to get to the gym today but I guess I should take it easy on my finger then. Did a lot of crimps yesterday.
Rest, my friend. The most underrated part of training 👍👍
I got my A3(pip) joint hurt in bjj, I tried different stuff, rest, medicine, long wave recovery therapy but it's still not bigger then before, I guess it s swollen especially every night or morning and getting better during the day? please tell me will this method u showed with wrapping finger will help me or it has nothing to do with joint recovery?
Did you found a solution for it?
My thumb joint knuckle just won't stop swollen. Is cortisone shot the best option?
Best bet is to see a specialist and find out what they recommend. A common issue there is joint hyper mobility which can cause inflammation/swelling and needs to be addressed with appropriate strengthening
Sir my three fingers of left hand are stretched in opposite direction 5 months ago and my bones are not fractured but my fingers joints are very painful and swelling and in winter it is very painful i can't move my it orthopedics are just recommending me medicines but its not even little bit better even my middle finger ligament is producing tak tak sounds when i moving it please for god tell me the good treatment 😢😢😢😢😢😢😢
Sorry to hear about your injury! Sounds like you should see a physical therapist for rehab advice. You can schedule an online consult with Jason through our website (hoopersbeta.com) if you’d like.
-Emile
@@HoopersBeta sir i try but I don't understand website please give me a advice in reply i will be very thankful
How does one protect an a1 pulley tear?
Ahh I hurt my finger today😭🥺
Hey you guys at the wall climbing gym in San Diego?
That is correct!
Cool I thought I recognized that training area! Great tips! Subscribed
I have synovial joint is very big on 6 of my fingers i want to get surgery to have them remove this or atleast decrease the size of it if possible im only 24 years old. I have no pain at all either
Oh wow, sorry to hear that! Good luck with the surgeries. I hope you follow your rehab closely after if prescribed!
@@HoopersBeta Actually sorry i found out what it actually is its called pachydermodactyly 150 cases world wide
Hi i have pain in my trigger pinger i watch your video
The joint in my thumb hurts because I play video games too much and use it to scroll on my phone. Regardless, I'll use the same treatments. Thanks
what kind of tape did u use
Coban tape for rehab related things and regular old climb tape for climbing :)
I have that problem how to fix
What should you do if you have a collateral ligament sprain on the dip joint? I injured the outside of my pinky finger dip joint, and the doctor is having me just splint it up, but doesn't seem to be feeling any better. Any exercises or taping that helps support that area better than a classic finger brace?
Hard to say depending on the severity, but if it isn't that bad, typically it doesn't feel much better because you aren't getting any range of motion through the joint being in the brace. So, it gets stiff and may even get slightly more swollen without the movement which won't feel good. Again, it will depend on the severity, but you may want to move the finger more to keep the joint mobility and tissue mobility healthy.
Hooper's Beta great, thank you. I only got pain when the finger joint moved inward or got bumped towards the midline of the hand. So I was trying to immobilize it as much as possible. The ligament developed a slight bump on the outside of the joint. Injured 2 months ago, didn’t hurt until a month ago, now I’ve braces for 3 straight weeks.
Was it ever x-ray'd? The bump on the outside is interesting.
@@jeffvictor Hey Jeff, could you provide any update for yourself? I have a very similar injury and timeline to you but in the ring finger. Just swelling primarily but I've been avoiding crimping for the last two months. The bump just won't go away...
@@ethanbarker2159 the doctor had me splint it for a month. Then I had it checked again and they ultrasounded the joint to make sure there wasn't any tears. After that I just slowly started to move it again and find the range of motion. Took about 3 more months before it felt close to normal again. Everyonce and a while it still bothers me if I bump it to hard, but honestly I don't think about it anymore.
Seriously the wrapping is a joke when you work n your hands need to get wet. I work I’m not sitting home retired!!😵💫
You're right, it won't be a tool that everyone can utilize :/ Many people still will be able to so it's worth sharing. But it's also not an absolute cure so use it when you can, or don't.
Im having pain in the bending joints of my pointing finger I just woke up having pain. When i rest my finger down its super painful as the blood pressure goes down and its so painful to bend my finger without any wrapped cloth
Yikes! What happened? Did you have any trauma or excessive training recently? That sounds quite uncomfortable.
Lol, very informative ❣️
Is it ok for me to still do open hand hangs if I were sufferring from synovitis (not severe), or should I just completely rest it? Cheers.
Hard to say as a general rule of thumb. If you are able to isolate it and it does not exacerbate your symptoms, then it is OK to do. If it does cause any exacerbation, you want to reduce so that you are not continuing to flair up your symptoms.
❤️
What’s the point of compression with the tape???
He looks like Andrew tate 😂❤
Great and helpful video! I have synovitis on my right middle PIP for 2 months now. I took a week off climbing and the swelling is still there. While doing the tendon gliding exercise, the middle finger can't fully contract and touch the base of the finger (@7:35 ruclips.net/video/8dvfuGfsQ9I/видео.html). Have tried massaging and pulling on the joint lightly but it still hurts when climbing sometimes. Any advise would be great!
Keep it up! Synovitis often develops quite slowly (may have been building for longer than the 2 months you mentioned) and you have possibly been progressively loosing your range of motion. It takes time to come back. Keep up with the tendon gliding and joint mobility work. You definitely want to also look at how often you are climbing and training and what caused the issue to develop in the first place.
You’re too cute to get sweaty 😬😂😜
Just put some duct tape it fixes everything
r/climbingcirclejerk
😃😄😆👏
Sir it looks like you are giving a lecture instead of demonstrating it does not help you should give lecture to college students not patients.