Please ignore the keyboard critics. I enjoyed seeing the procedure you used to replace the bearings. Not everything has to make perfect economic sense and the skills you showed were very worthwhile to me. Thanks.
Lance! Awesome tip! Thanks for showing us an easy way to save our beer money from being lost to the John Deere parts monopoly. I’ve got an old L-102 that we call Frankenmower because it’s got more parts from other mowers and patches of scrap metal that I had to weld to the deck because of the beating it has taken over the years. It’s probably 13 years old or more and it’s a fun thing keeping it alive. Keep up the cool videos!
I was going to do this on my John Deere idler sheaves, but today the bearing costs the same as the whole pulley. I just bought 3 new idler pulleys instead. I still like this video very much. Learned something new.
Just bought a 4 inch pully just like that one at a farm store for 24.99. I did think about replacing the 8 dollar bearing. It was dang near exactly across from the new pulley in the store. Good work.
Bought my x300 in 2009 , it’s got 265 hours on it , all original pulleys,tires , shes mint , all I do is change the oil and never leave it outside , it’s never even seen a raindrop , look after you stuff and it will look after you. 👍🏻🇨🇦🍻
I expect this mower will last several seasons with decent care. ruclips.net/user/postUgkx1VWTrayKBdCKAjzAcZ_Eg4dhHTae3LkN also recommend Also, I ran across the problem with it not starting the 2nd time I used it. There is a safety switch which is pushed in by the chute or mulching piece being attached to the deck. I took the cover off and it wouldn't start. Put it back on, no problem. It takes only a minute with 2 easily accessible wingnuts and no tools. This mower starts up first crank each time and it is a joy to use. It also mows in reverse by putting the key to the reverse area after starting and pushing in the triangular button. It will stay in reverse mode until you turn it off. All in all, for my homeowner needs, I really like this mower-and at 70 bucks a cut here in Miami, it's already more than 1/3 paid for itself in a month.
Well this is a coincidence, I just repair my buddy's mower this morning by doing exactly this bearing/pulley job. It's Saturday here too,...and this is a good way to save some dollars and make a good repair. The only difference is that Bundy Bears Shed was smart enough to put his idea up here on RUclips. Thanks for this.
I had to replace one idler on my deck, and the dealer charged $22 for the part. I took the noisy pulley, popped the seals out, cleaned and repacked them, and reinstalled the plastic seals. The rebuilt one was smoother than the new one. I saw this done on Utube, and thought, why not try it. I then repacked the new one the same way, and rebuilt my extra one. I now have a spare that is better than new. Try it, you have nothing to lose.
I taught machine shop for many years and know all about rpm's and feeds. I see you run your drill press at a modest rpm. And guess what? I run mine just like yours! No drama required.
Good video, mate. I’m not surprised by some of the sarcastic comments, unfortunately. I’m not sure what the price of the unit is here in the USA, but there are some of us that like to do things ourselves.
@@BundyBearsShed When you do one next time be sure to either use a needle grease gun to add some grease to the bearing or pop the seal out, add grease and them re install the seal. New bearings often have minimal grease. I like to add grease to mine when being replaced and every year or two there after. My mower is 17 years old and I have only replaced the idlers bearings once.
Good video Been doing it in a similar fashion for several years. I use 1/4-20 X 1/2" stainless bolts with stainless locknuts to hold the two sides together. Don't have to cut the length off later and the locknuts keep them tight. The stainless bolts keep the corrosion down so they come apart easy next time.
THIS IS HOW ANY RETAIL PRODUCT IS ASSEMBLED IN THE USA. YOU HAVE NOW CONVERTED IT TO A REBUILDABLE COMMERCIAL UNIT. WAY TO GO. GOOD JOB AS WELL!!!!!! SIMPLE CONVERSIONS MADE A PUSH MOWER LAST 14 YEARS. THIS IS ONE REASON WHY............
@@BundyBearsShed THE DRIVE BELT BROKE SO YES I INTEND TO REPLACE THE BEARINGS AS WELL. MORE THAN LIKELY THEY ARE AN INDUSTRIAL BEARING. I WORKED AS A BUILDING MECHANIC BEFORE RETIRING BUT I NEED TO FIND AN INDUSTRIAL SUPPLIER. I TAKE THE OLD BEARING WITH ME IF I CAN LOCATE ONE HERE. I CAN CALL MY OLD EMPLOYER AS WELL. THE BEARING NUMBER SHOULD BE STAMPED ON THE SHIELD. I HAVE A CALIPERS IF A MEASUREMENT IS NEED
I bought a new pulley for my Toro deck. After installing it, I repacked the original. It ran smoother than the new one. So I then repacked the new one and the other old one. Now I have two smooth running pulleys, plus a spare. I repacked them without removing them from the pulley.
These bearings don't need that much grease. Also if you pack them full of grease, a bunch of grease will push past the seals and come out (and collect dirt). Re-pack a bearing, spin it up with a drill for a while, wipe of the excess, take off the seals. You'll see a similar amount of grease left as how they come from the factory. Personally i've never seen a new bearing come with no grease at all from the factory, unless we are talking about something like a crankshaft bearing for a chainsaw which comes with no seals installed and is lubricated by oil.
That was a good fix Lance as to buying a new one. If you look at a lot of things like that there is a fix rather than spending heaps on a new one the farmers know how to do it. John
The entire pulley and bearing is $13 free shipping. But if you need, just remove the rubber seal, pack it with grease, water proof grease that is and it is in use till your replacement gets to you. If wobbley then just wait for the replacement. You can also grind the top off the bearing pop it out from the otherside put a new one in, put a washer over it when bolting back on and then mow your lawn.
As Joe Shuk says below. I recently saw a similar hack because these bearings are not greased. They carefully pried the colored seal off, greased the bearing and reinstalled that same colored seal.
I'm fixing up a 2001 Scott's L2548, made by Deere. I just drill a 1/8" hole right through the seal, deck spindles, idlers. Then inject grease with a needle attachment to the grease gun. Then clean off and add a dab of RTV to the hole. Not perfect, but it gets some grease into the bearing with minimal effort.
@@itsjustme9189 If you have a houing with two bearing that works. Remove the inner seals, fill cavity. IN this case you use the needle to lift the edge of seal, clean and dry, then grease directly. Push seals home and wipe excess.
Thanks Bundy Bears, here is another hack that would work with a little less fuss. I worked in a Blacksmith shop when I was (much) younger. Having mucked about with hot and cold rivets I would be tempted to try and tighten the rivets (cold NOT HOT) using a 4 lb hammer and flattened punch (roughly the same diameter as the rivet head) with a solid steel blank supporting the bottom side of the rivet you are striking. Reset the rivets in the same pattern as when tightening wheel lug bolts. If you are unsure about this, try 4 of these rivets in a cross pattern then put it back on the deck and check the wobble. It should be much quieter. Finish resetting the rest of the rivets in the same cross pattern.
your last coment was very interesting ,89 hours !! i just purchased a la105 done 96 hours ,thinking everything would be fine NOT TRUE ,idler bearing noise /.Having a x300R for many years done 600 hours ,replaced all bearings in your maner ,drill out and 6203's and away we go save lots of dollars,and a 300r has "lots" of idelers /bearings /\. i wa sthinking of doing a vidio and You Saved me to bother ,,Well Done Mate .South Au.
G'day Lance. Nice mower you got there. I have a mower that size and it is too big for my 1/100 th acre. Can't imagine what I was thinking when I bought it. Nice fix on the pulley. I have done that to belt idlers on automobiles when the idler wheel is metal. The plastic ones seem to disintegrate.
G Day Harrold, The John Deere has some plastic pulleys on the main drive. I was thinking when they showed wear or got noisy I might make a steel one with a replaceble bearing held in with a circlip. See how keen I am at the time.
Been there, done that. In my case I cut some nails to the appropriate length and used these to re-rivet the two halves together, made it much quicker and simpler.
Good video. Thanks for uploading it. Mine riding mower is a 2006 John Deere 115 and I just replaced the spindles but never replaced the idler pulley. I guess I should check for noise. I do know that the brake system you showed doesn't stop my spindles. it needs new pads and adjustment. the deck did not like the new belt at all so I had to put the old belt back on (which was still in good, although probably stretched, condition.
Every thing people do to fix things or make something perform better is a “life hack” ... it’s the younger generation’s term to make it sound cool I guess.
@Bantham Nobilis There's is nothing dangerous about replacing a bearing. The manufacturers possibly use rivets so people will buy another pulley wheel with bearings. Drilling out rivets and replacing with bolts is perfectly safe. You should use thread-locking fluid to keep the nuts from backing off.
Good video! I wish you would have shown the difference between the LU and LLU bearings, LU is only suposed to be sealed on one side where LLU should have deals on both.
Duluth Didpatch From what I could find was that the LLU is a double lip seal, keep grease in better and keeps debris out. LU is still a fully sealed bearing but single lip seal that grease is more easily expelled from.
Job well done there Lance 👍and so easy to do, I can't understand why John Deere parts are so expensive but I'm hoping one of their spare parts team see's this video and starts panicking of their mower pulley parts sales droping down lol. Great video Lance.
Good stuff! I did similar on my Craftsman 42-inch deck. Unfortunately, the pulley on my deck not only had the rivets, but spot-welds near the outside of the flange. which needed to be drilled out. With bearing out, I carefully removed the shields from the bearing, cleaned / greased / installed shields. Reassembly was the same as yours, except I had a lot more screws and nuts. I would think with proper care, the bearing will last forever. There is another idler on the deck which got the same treatment. Other than some common hardware, no parts required.
Deere could have made it where you could change the bearing with out all of that most people would have bought a new one at there high price, well done Lance.
G day Joe, john Deere and many other companies are well aware of what they are doing, they believe it will give long term parts sales and cheaper manufacture. They are not really worried about helping the customer much after the sale of the machine.
My spindle bearings are going in my mower. But I'll have to change the whole assemblies because the bolts break. And the pulley splines are usually almost stripped.
Just pop the cover off the bearings when u grease the spindle you have to remember there sealed bearings so really grease is not getting to the bearings pop the bottom side of the top one of and the top side of the bottom bearing seal off and the grease will get it.👍👍 you will never have to replace a bearing again well unless it’s a crappy bearing
You can also remove the plastic dust cover on one side of the bearings and repack with grease. Then reassemble with the unprotected bearings facing inboard. Assuming that the bearings are dry and not frozen or destroyed.
I grease my bearings when they get noisey. I drill a 1/32 hole in the shield and then put a dab of RTV over the hole. Pull off the silicone next time thegresse again and put more silicone over the hole. A needle grease tip like the one for my chain saw sprocket works wonderfull.
Weren't you concerned with the extra weight you added to the assembly. Those bearings are designed to work under certain loads/side thrust etc. Let us know if it lasts please. Rudy from NH
I just replaced that very pulley just 2 or 3 months ago and it only cost in the range of about $20. I was pleasantly surprised at this. I bought it at a John Deere dealership. The bracket that it mounts to has become bent more than normal. I'm trying to repair this problem on my brother's JD tractor. Just so happens, I have a new but the same 42" deck on my JD tractor. I noticed his is at more of an angle than mine. Consequently, his belt won't stay on because of the increased angle of that pulley. But my question is: What is the best way or a way to repair this problem? I know it suppose to be at a slight angle but his machine is about 10 years older than mine. Both are JD 42" decks and are very, very similar. (I hope I've explained this problem well enough for you to understand my problem)
@@BundyBearsShed it's a brand new pulley. I guess it needs heating up and bent back. But I don't have a torch or access to one to hear up the bracket, that's my problem.
Good video! Pulleys aren't that cheap in my part of the US either. Also a good quick mend to do until the shop reopens if it goes bad after the shops closed or if they're on holiday. Wonder how it would do to disassemble the bearing, drill two holes in the outer race and put grease fittings in those holes you showed us?
Wow, never knew you could attempt a repair on these things, so I learned something! However, i'd probably just buy a new one in light of what you've done. The cheapest aftermarket one I see on Amazon was around $10
I guess if you've got all the time in the world don't mind having a handful of bearings left over and are not in a hurry to fix the mower then it's a brilliant idea! Me I ordered mine from Amazon for like $16 and got it in 3 days!
I bought the exact same JD pulley to use as an idler pulley/clutch on a wood elevator at about the same time you posted this video. It is still going OK. The cost at the time was $40. Considering that the bearing is so cheap and the pulley is stamped metal, it just shows how much we get ripped off in Australia with spare parts, especially those from the U.S.
@@BundyBearsShed they were always cheap, 10 years ago about $12, not worth the hassle, did you check the price before you did it. I bought my first John Deere over 10 years ago after doing my homework on spare parts prices. John Deere were the cheapest and I am Australian.
@@BundyBearsShed John Lees Here I can only go on my experience I think the model of my JD was a 105 it was their cheapest model, it had a manual gearbox. At one stage I replaced the 2 plastic transmission clutch pulleys the were $7 and $9 dollars. I also replaced the 2 idler pulleys on the deck. I went to the local dealer and priced the pulley you repaired it was around $12 I also the other pulley because it was only $2 dearer. I was getting the parts from my local John Deere dealer in Maffra Victoria. I now have a JD Z235 Zero turn mower and a 1025R with a 54" deck on the strength of the original mower. I remember the prices because I could not get over how cheap they were in comparison to my previous ride ons.
Here in Canada, I bet that pulley from John Deere/Martin Equipment is over $100 and 40 days of ordering/shipping/wrong parts/delays/lost in transit. I avoid going near their shops for parts at all cost. Stay gold.
great fix. Sad thing is I remember when they made pulleys like that in the first place. Just goes to show that we live in a throwaway Society these days.
Absolutely I worked in the repair department for my co. For twenty years, when I first started, we used to fix things, like actually take things a part and troubleshoot and order the individual parts as needed now, you can’t get the individual parts and have to replace whole assemblies, we always joke and say we used to work in the repair dept. now we work in the replace dept.
Idler pulley of a Cummins isx is 80.00. We press the bearing out and the new bearing is $15.00. We have 6 trucks the savings on the bearing almost paid for the press
Let me ask you something about the physics involved here. If the weight of the spinning pulley is off, or the weight of the bolt/nut/washer is greater than the weight of the rivets, won't that cause an increase of the wear-and-tear on the bearings. You seem to know what you're talking about- but I just wanted to ask if any 9f that was considered.
I figured the bolts were evenly spaced so not a problem really. This same bearing is in there at 200hrs old now and seems to be working fine at this stage at least.
If bearing is just noisy but not wore and sloppy, try this. Drill a small hole through the seal and spray penetrating oil into the hole and spin pulley and repeated til the noise stops or is greatly reduced. Then grease using a grease needle adapter. Can seal hole with silicone or leave open so can grease occasionally.
G day James, You only need to do this the first time and after that it is just undo the bolts and replace the bearing. It appears in the USA they are a lot cheaper than over here in Australia.
It can be done with a hand held drill. I replaced the ball joints on my truck. The original ones were riveted on so I had to drill the tops off and then I had to relieve a large portion of the center of the rivet shaft (while leaving enough solid material to hammer out the rivet with a drive pin) to get them to drive out. The lowers had 1/2” rivets and I had to relieve 7/16” of the center of the rivet before I was able to drive it out. I was successful on all 8 rivets with the hand drill. This was also made more challenging as the rivets had a mushroom head.
Bearing costs between $6 & $7 dollars here in the US. The whole re-fit shouldn't take most then 2 hours so I'd fix it the same way. It may or may not fail again but if it does, it will be a 1/2 hour fix.
I reckon there ought to be a law against non serviceable parts, it's the biggest rort ever cooked up not to mention environmentally unfriendly, this is by far the best vid I've seen on this topic, Aussie style,,,,my new second hand SuperZ 2004 model has all the deck idlers and the pump drive running noisy, louder than the engine !!!! I priced these little gems at the dealership ,,,,, $430 altogether, aint gunna happen.!! BTW did you know the grease in those packed bearings is next to useless and very little of it too.
I don't understand these people letter saying repack the bearing when a bearing wears out you can pack it all day if you want to you're not going to help it
don't know it this is against john deere, but I had to redo the entire top deck of my mower. bought a kit with the blade spindles, idler, and powered pulleys for about 80 USD. I also had some weld work done to the mower deck. cus my dad likes to run over things.
I think these are about $8.99 shipped on eBay. They have a bunch of different sets, every few years when they start rattling I would just go on there and pay about 30 bucks and replace all the pulleys with bearings in them. Spindles are cheap on there as well, just remember that the spindles have break-off bolts so you have to buy new ones. I think the spindles for my 48 inch John Deere deck were about $17 or $18 each. Way cheaper than the John Deere store.
I just checked ebay. They are 42 $ plus 19 $ shipping each to Canada ( From the states. ) Not everyone is fortunate enough to be located where the parts are cheaper or where there is free shipping. Shipping in Canada is so expensive , its criminal ( Not always but often... and just imagine if you are in Northern Canada. )
@@ethics3 www.ebay.com/itm/264329798140 $15.95 with free shipping in the states, Canada is run by socialist so I’m sure the taxes and shipping will be ridiculous. 😂 It’s been a while but they had sets with all of the pulleys or all of the pulleys with bearings in them and I think it was like $34.57 for the set of 3 with the bearings.
@@ethics3 Honestly if you guys don’t do something about Justin Trudeau you’re going to end up being on the wrong side of World War III. He’s literally training Chinese military right across America’s border. This isn’t going to end well
He said the shops were closed and that's what he had. Otherwise he'd have to wait and have down time. Hence the repair instead of replacing the broken part and a longer down time.
When I was younger, and still had a drill press, I would change my u-joints on my vehicles. If the new joint didn't have a grease nipple in it I would first drill and tap a hole in the side and install one myself. We more or less live in a throw away society now... I really need to get a new drill press that's not made in china!
great vid, nothing wrong with method , but old bearing was only dry and a good injection of good grease with a syringe probably would've seen it through till the pulley wore out.
I'm with ya mate, just may save the bearing needing replacement so early. Btw I haven't checked mine anyway, putting my 2 cents worth of grease on the keyboard instead of my own bearing lol
I purchased my JD X304 in 2007. It & deck have over 850 hours on them. Only ever replaced 1 belt. Before I purchased I asked the JD dealer why so much cheaper at the 'box' stores? (Box stores = Lowes, Home Depot, etc. selling D and L series). JD does not warranty these series nor service them. Must return to or service by box store of purchase. These series are of lower quality intentionally for the box stores to be able to make profits. Discount quality = discount price = discount parts. I opted for longevity (quality) and reputable service. The hours accumulated are by mowing >1 acre regularly, leaf mulching in fall and pushing Chicago snow every winter. Some would say that the endless search for a discount inevitably drives Manufacturing in your own country to cheaper countries. Therefore, you only get what you pay for. Just my own opinion and worth no more or no less then anyone else's.
My mower was bought from the John Deere dealer here in Australia. I do probably 3 acres with it and overall happy. Im a shed bloke so I like to do this sort of thing.
@@BundyBearsShed Roger that! I'm a - if I see my neighbor in his shed tinkering on his tractor I'll bring over a couple of beers and offer to Tinker with him or just watch - kinda guy 😁 Cheers mate!
WOW BUNDY BEAR THEY ARE A TOUGH AUDIENCE FOR YOU ON THIS ONE. I THINK MOST MISHEARD THE COST OF THE BEARING AND THINK YOU SPENT WAY TO MUCH! I THOUGHT I HEARD 6 OR 7 DOLLARS. I ENJOYED THE VIDEO AND COMMEND YOU FOR DOING THE REPAIR YOURSELF.
Yeah they go crook but miss the part about being in Australia and the exchange rate etc. The good thing is Google revenue goes into my account for watching and calling me a tight arse are all in US dollars so at so many views Im winning, lol. good little revenue stream.
Missing the boat on a way to prevent build-up on top of the deck , just add a fin on each bolt before tightening it down. Kinda like a leaf blower fin. This would create turbulence while spinning and help keep the top of mower deck free of leaves and grass clippings. Would probably need to be tweaked a little but in theory should work. Hey?
Everyone's got a handful of 6203 bearings in the shed. When your 50 km from town and you were told to have the grass cut before dusk, what choice is there other than to fix the bloody thing yourself. You don't always have to buy, buy, buy!!!! Steve North avoca. N S W 🕥
Please ignore the keyboard critics. I enjoyed seeing the procedure you used to replace the bearings. Not everything has to make perfect economic sense and the skills you showed were very worthwhile to me. Thanks.
No sometimes if you are a shed bloke it is just fun to do it yourself. Next time the bearing fails it is a 5 minute job
Well said. It's good to be able to rescue something that's headed for the trash.
@@BundyBearsShed Not just that; I'm 30 minutes from everywhere.
It’s not always about saving money, to be able to do these types of repairs keeps your skills sharp and your self esteem high.
And its a bit of fun.
Second that.
Totally agree. Doing a MacGyver kind of thing is always impressive with the ladies.
Factor in that distance to places, shipping or availability can change how we repair items.
So true always learning
Lance! Awesome tip! Thanks for showing us an easy way to save our beer money from being lost to the John Deere parts monopoly. I’ve got an old L-102 that we call Frankenmower because it’s got more parts from other mowers and patches of scrap metal that I had to weld to the deck because of the beating it has taken over the years. It’s probably 13 years old or more and it’s a fun thing keeping it alive. Keep up the cool videos!
Thanks Yogi, It is a cheap fix that can be done over and over as the bearing wears. You mower sounds like a thing of beauty. lol.
I was going to do this on my John Deere idler sheaves, but today the bearing costs the same as the whole pulley. I just bought 3 new idler pulleys instead. I still like this video very much. Learned something new.
Good stuff!
Just bought a 4 inch pully just like that one at a farm store for 24.99.
I did think about replacing the 8 dollar bearing. It was dang near exactly across from the new pulley in the store.
Good work.
Bought my x300 in 2009 , it’s got 265 hours on it , all original pulleys,tires , shes mint , all I do is change the oil and never leave it outside , it’s never even seen a raindrop , look after you stuff and it will look after you. 👍🏻🇨🇦🍻
Thanks for sharing
I expect this mower will last several seasons with decent care. ruclips.net/user/postUgkx1VWTrayKBdCKAjzAcZ_Eg4dhHTae3LkN also recommend Also, I ran across the problem with it not starting the 2nd time I used it. There is a safety switch which is pushed in by the chute or mulching piece being attached to the deck. I took the cover off and it wouldn't start. Put it back on, no problem. It takes only a minute with 2 easily accessible wingnuts and no tools. This mower starts up first crank each time and it is a joy to use. It also mows in reverse by putting the key to the reverse area after starting and pushing in the triangular button. It will stay in reverse mode until you turn it off. All in all, for my homeowner needs, I really like this mower-and at 70 bucks a cut here in Miami, it's already more than 1/3 paid for itself in a month.
Is for sure.
Well this is a coincidence, I just repair my buddy's mower this morning by doing exactly this bearing/pulley job.
It's Saturday here too,...and this is a good way to save some dollars and make a good repair.
The only difference is that Bundy Bears Shed was smart enough to put his idea up here on RUclips.
Thanks for this.
Thanks Reg, Great minds think alike. lol.
You know,....they do !
I had to replace one idler on my deck, and the dealer charged $22 for the part. I took the noisy pulley, popped the seals out, cleaned and repacked them, and reinstalled the plastic seals. The rebuilt one was smoother than the new one. I saw this done on Utube, and thought, why not try it. I then repacked the new one the same way, and rebuilt my extra one. I now have a spare that is better than new. Try it, you have nothing to lose.
That works for sure but I left mine too long.
I taught machine shop for many years and know all about rpm's and feeds. I see you run your drill press at a modest rpm. And guess what? I run mine just like yours! No drama required.
Thanks Jim.
Good video, mate. I’m not surprised by some of the sarcastic comments, unfortunately. I’m not sure what the price of the unit is here in the USA, but there are some of us that like to do things ourselves.
G Day Daniel, Yes I love doing thing like this myself, next time just unbolt and fit a new bearing. The olny ones we need to please is ourselves.
@@BundyBearsShed When you do one next time be sure to either use a needle grease gun to add some grease to the bearing or pop the seal out, add grease and them re install the seal. New bearings often have minimal grease. I like to add grease to mine when being replaced and every year or two there after. My mower is 17 years old and I have only replaced the idlers bearings once.
Good video Been doing it in a similar fashion for several years. I use 1/4-20 X 1/2" stainless bolts with stainless locknuts to hold the two sides together. Don't have to cut the length off later and the locknuts keep them tight. The stainless bolts keep the corrosion down so they come apart easy next time.
Good stuff! I was using what was on hand and this is still going years later.
THIS IS HOW ANY RETAIL PRODUCT IS ASSEMBLED IN THE USA. YOU HAVE NOW CONVERTED IT TO A REBUILDABLE COMMERCIAL UNIT. WAY TO GO. GOOD JOB AS WELL!!!!!! SIMPLE CONVERSIONS MADE A PUSH MOWER LAST 14 YEARS. THIS IS ONE REASON WHY............
G Day Pete, Yes the next time the bearing needs replacing it will take only a few minutes.
@@BundyBearsShed THE DRIVE BELT BROKE SO YES I INTEND TO REPLACE THE BEARINGS AS WELL. MORE THAN LIKELY THEY ARE AN INDUSTRIAL BEARING. I WORKED AS A BUILDING MECHANIC BEFORE RETIRING BUT I NEED TO FIND AN INDUSTRIAL SUPPLIER. I TAKE THE OLD BEARING WITH ME IF I CAN LOCATE ONE HERE. I CAN CALL MY OLD EMPLOYER AS WELL. THE BEARING NUMBER SHOULD BE STAMPED ON THE SHIELD. I HAVE A CALIPERS IF A MEASUREMENT IS NEED
I always pull the seals on even new bearings and re-pack them. Amazing that they often come from the factory with little or no grease.
Probably a good idea.
I bought a new pulley for my Toro deck. After installing it, I repacked the original. It ran smoother than the new one. So I then repacked the new one and the other old one. Now I have two smooth running pulleys, plus a spare. I repacked them without removing them from the pulley.
These bearings don't need that much grease. Also if you pack them full of grease, a bunch of grease will push past the seals and come out (and collect dirt). Re-pack a bearing, spin it up with a drill for a while, wipe of the excess, take off the seals. You'll see a similar amount of grease left as how they come from the factory.
Personally i've never seen a new bearing come with no grease at all from the factory, unless we are talking about something like a crankshaft bearing for a chainsaw which comes with no seals installed and is lubricated by oil.
That was a good fix Lance as to buying a new one. If you look at a lot of things like that there is a fix rather than spending heaps on a new one the farmers know how to do it. John
G Day John, Yeah you just need to look at things like they did in the old days. Everything was repaired if possible.
Nice little Saturday afternoon project. Sure feels good to save a few bucks!
Nise easy little project.
Unfortunately, you saved nothing.
Great fix. I could listen to you for hours. 3 with beer 🍺
Thanks Glad you liked it.
The entire pulley and bearing is $13 free shipping. But if you need, just remove the rubber seal, pack it with grease, water proof grease that is and it is in use till your replacement gets to you. If wobbley then just wait for the replacement. You can also grind the top off the bearing pop it out from the otherside put a new one in, put a washer over it when bolting back on and then mow your lawn.
Right! 13 dollars?!?!
Depends on what your time is worth...
Sir that was a fantastic tip.. , I will be using it and sharing it with my friends..thank you ..
Please do!
As Joe Shuk says below. I recently saw a similar hack because these bearings are not greased. They carefully pried the colored seal off, greased the bearing and reinstalled that same colored seal.
Yes if you can get to it that works for sure,
I'm fixing up a 2001 Scott's L2548, made by Deere. I just drill a 1/8" hole right through the seal, deck spindles, idlers. Then inject grease with a needle attachment to the grease gun. Then clean off and add a dab of RTV to the hole. Not perfect, but it gets some grease into the bearing with minimal effort.
What ever works if fine.
Why not tap the hole you drilled and add a grease zerk?
@@itsjustme9189 If you have a houing with two bearing that works. Remove the inner seals, fill cavity.
IN this case you use the needle to lift the edge of seal, clean and dry, then grease directly. Push seals home and wipe excess.
Thanks Bundy Bears, here is another hack that would work with a little less fuss. I worked in a Blacksmith shop when I was (much) younger. Having mucked about with hot and cold rivets I would be tempted to try and tighten the rivets (cold NOT HOT) using a 4 lb hammer and flattened punch (roughly the same diameter as the rivet head) with a solid steel blank supporting the bottom side of the rivet you are striking. Reset the rivets in the same pattern as when tightening wheel lug bolts. If you are unsure about this, try 4 of these rivets in a cross pattern then put it back on the deck and check the wobble. It should be much quieter. Finish resetting the rest of the rivets in the same cross pattern.
Thanks Peter sounds interesting to try.
your last coment was very interesting ,89 hours !! i just purchased a la105 done 96 hours ,thinking everything would be fine NOT TRUE ,idler bearing noise /.Having a x300R for many years done 600 hours ,replaced all bearings in your maner ,drill out and 6203's and away we go save lots of dollars,and a 300r has "lots" of idelers /bearings /\. i wa sthinking of doing a vidio and You Saved me to bother ,,Well Done Mate .South Au.
Glad to help, these are a lot cheaper nowadays but probably the same quality.
The two holes are for aligning the pulley on the riveting machine.
That is an awesome hack! Thank you for sharing 👍
Thanks for watching, glad you like it.
G'day Lance. Nice mower you got there. I have a mower that size and it is too big for my 1/100 th acre. Can't imagine what I was thinking when I bought it. Nice fix on the pulley. I have done that to belt idlers on automobiles when the idler wheel is metal. The plastic ones seem to disintegrate.
G Day Harrold, The John Deere has some plastic pulleys on the main drive. I was thinking when they showed wear or got noisy I might make a steel one with a replaceble bearing held in with a circlip. See how keen I am at the time.
takes me 3 days & heaps of beers to mow my 9 acres with one of them !!!
You can also use a metal pick and pull the plastic cover on the bearing. Repack with grease!
If they sounded that bad, its probably too late for grease to do anything.
Yeah early on the grease would work.
13BRAVO REDLEG Agreed.
It works if they are not damaged, just dirty.
there is a grease needle for lubricating sealed bearings.
Been there, done that. In my case I cut some nails to the appropriate length and used these to re-rivet the two halves together, made it much quicker and simpler.
Yeah why not.
Works the same with a spot welded pulley, drill out the spot welds, new bearing, plug weld thru the holes with the mig.
Yes thats for sure.
You saved me from buying pulleys from ebay just now. I'll be doing this to all 3 pulleys and maybe add zerks to keep life easy. Shoot yeah
I hope it works out for you.
Sure better than going out and buying a new pulley! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Tim.
Yes if your time is unlimited and worthless, it's a great solution
@@nathanr.8556 It's not like it takes more than a few hours to do the repair the guy done.
@@timfreeman3178 Very true. Mechanics like myself can't charge our hourly rate to dick around on a $15 pulley
Worth pointing out that Nylock nuts would be required if they are downward facing. Don’t want them coming undone and flying around like bullets.
yep.
Great video and info. That is for presenting it.
Thanks Lou
Good video. Thanks for uploading it. Mine riding mower is a 2006 John Deere 115 and I just replaced the spindles but never replaced the idler pulley. I guess I should check for noise. I do know that the brake system you showed doesn't stop my spindles. it needs new pads and adjustment. the deck did not like the new belt at all so I had to put the old belt back on (which was still in good, although probably stretched, condition.
Glad it helped
this is not a hack, IT'S A "FIX"
Its a fix if you dont have to drill it apart.
Every thing people do to fix things or make something perform better is a “life hack” ... it’s the younger generation’s term to make it sound cool I guess.
What makes it dangerous?
Lenny F any fix without paying Corp America Thieves is a Hack!💀 $30 pulley in States is/was 60/90 down under
@Bantham Nobilis There's is nothing dangerous about replacing a bearing. The manufacturers possibly use rivets so people will buy another pulley wheel with bearings. Drilling out rivets and replacing with bolts is perfectly safe. You should use thread-locking fluid to keep the nuts from backing off.
A good hack mate it bloody fixed it ,old jinny australia
Good to hear.
Good video! I wish you would have shown the difference between the LU and LLU bearings, LU is only suposed to be sealed on one side where LLU should have deals on both.
Fair point , perhaps next time I change it.
Duluth Didpatch
From what I could find was that the LLU is a double lip seal, keep grease in better and keeps debris out.
LU is still a fully sealed bearing but single lip seal that grease is more easily expelled from.
The same pulley on my craftsman just went out at 630 hours and 10 years of use. I don’t feel so bad now
No it seems you did well.
Looks good I'm going have to try that in My D170
Go for it!
Job well done there Lance 👍and so easy to do, I can't understand why John Deere parts are so expensive but I'm hoping one of their spare parts team see's this video and starts panicking of their mower pulley parts sales droping down lol. Great video Lance.
G Day Calum, I don't think they will be too worried, they probably get the whole pulley for what we pay for the bearing alone.
Deere sells the whole assembly for $11.64
John Deere parts interpreter here. If I remember I'll get you a price for a new one. Covid tax has put prices up considerably
You can pop out those seals on the bearings, repack and put them back in. Easy peasy and all fixed for nearly 0 dollars.
Yep some times.
Good stuff! I did similar on my Craftsman 42-inch deck. Unfortunately, the pulley on my deck not only had the rivets, but spot-welds near the outside of the flange. which needed to be drilled out. With bearing out, I carefully removed the shields from the bearing, cleaned / greased / installed shields. Reassembly was the same as yours, except I had a lot more screws and nuts. I would think with proper care, the bearing will last forever. There is another idler on the deck which got the same treatment. Other than some common hardware, no parts required.
Not a hard job if you are a little handy, next time it will be an easy fix.
I love it I did learn a lot from you today thank you and God bless you
You are so welcome
Would 3/16 pop rivets work as well?
Yes Im sure they would.
Deere could have made it where you could change the bearing with out all of that most people would have bought a new one at there high price, well done Lance.
G day Joe, john Deere and many other companies are well aware of what they are doing, they believe it will give long term parts sales and cheaper manufacture. They are not really worried about helping the customer much after the sale of the machine.
Nice one Bundy ! I have a 2003 John Deere Sabre 17.542HS which is the same as an L110 and your's practically the same.
Interesting!
My spindle bearings are going in my mower. But I'll have to change the whole assemblies because the bolts break. And the pulley splines are usually almost stripped.
Just make sure you use a lot of anti sieze when you assemble it and next time you may just get away with the bearings.
Even better don't unbolt the spindles and drive the bearings out while mounted on the deck.
Just pop the cover off the bearings when u grease the spindle you have to remember there sealed bearings so really grease is not getting to the bearings pop the bottom side of the top one of and the top side of the bottom bearing seal off and the grease will get it.👍👍 you will never have to replace a bearing again well unless it’s a crappy bearing
This is 2 years old. Hows it holding up? I was curious if the weight difference from rivets to nuts and bolts caused any issues.
Still the same bearing but we had a drought last year and it probably only did 40hrs work total.
@@BundyBearsShed Thank You Sub U You Are Smart & Get It DONE
You can also remove the plastic dust cover on one side of the bearings and repack with grease. Then reassemble with the unprotected bearings facing inboard. Assuming that the bearings are dry and not frozen or destroyed.
Yeah for sure.
I grease my bearings when they get noisey. I drill a 1/32 hole in the shield and then put a dab of RTV over the hole. Pull off the silicone next time thegresse again and put more silicone over the hole. A needle grease tip like the one for my chain saw sprocket works wonderfull.
Weren't you concerned with the extra weight you added to the assembly. Those bearings are designed to work under certain loads/side thrust etc. Let us know if it lasts please. Rudy from NH
No I wasn't worried as the same bearing takes a lot of side thrust anyway, it seems to be going well at around 120hrs, so far at least.
The load applied by the belt is far greater than the addition of a little extra weight of a few bolts.
There are 8 bolts in the same place rivets - not much lighter - were.
The molybdenum dysulfide grease snuck in with a needle beside the seal , usually works to save bearings , old an new ones usually are dry .
Great point!
I just replaced that very pulley just 2 or 3 months ago and it only cost in the range of about $20. I was pleasantly surprised at this. I bought it at a John Deere dealership.
The bracket that it mounts to has become bent more than normal. I'm trying to repair this problem on my brother's JD tractor. Just so happens, I have a new but the same 42" deck on my JD tractor. I noticed his is at more of an angle than mine. Consequently, his belt won't stay on because of the increased angle of that pulley. But my question is: What is the best way or a way to repair this problem? I know it suppose to be at a slight angle but his machine is about 10 years older than mine. Both are JD 42" decks and are very, very similar. (I hope I've explained this problem well enough for you to understand my problem)
Does the arm need re bushing or just a heat up and a bend.
@@BundyBearsShed it's a brand new pulley. I guess it needs heating up and bent back. But I don't have a torch or access to one to hear up the bracket, that's my problem.
Good video! Pulleys aren't that cheap in my part of the US either. Also a good quick mend to do until the shop reopens if it goes bad after the shops closed or if they're on holiday. Wonder how it would do to disassemble the bearing, drill two holes in the outer race and put grease fittings in those holes you showed us?
G Day Randy, That would probably work if you could drill the bearing
no need the bearing has a rubber or hard plastic seal and a needle will slip right in
I tried that on the double pulley assembly on a Kubota G6200 and there was no way I could ever separate the halves. Very frustrating!
May have been extra spot welds possibly.
Brilliant! Thank you from Canada!
You're very welcome!
I'm not sure I would call replacing a bearing a "hack" but I commend you for not conforming to consumerism.
This pulley isn't designed for bearing replacement. I suppose the manufacturer could have welded instead of rivets, and then it would be a hack?
Wow, never knew you could attempt a repair on these things, so I learned something! However, i'd probably just buy a new one in light of what you've done. The cheapest aftermarket one I see on Amazon was around $10
Yes they are very cheap now a days, this was a few years back and Im in Australia but they are cheaper here now also.
I guess if you've got all the time in the world don't mind having a handful of bearings left over and are not in a hurry to fix the mower then it's a brilliant idea!
Me I ordered mine from Amazon for like $16 and got it in 3 days!
Yeah they are far cheaper now a days this is getting a bit of an older video now.
I bought the exact same JD pulley to use as an idler pulley/clutch on a wood elevator at about the same time you posted this video. It is still going OK. The cost at the time was $40. Considering that the bearing is so cheap and the pulley is stamped metal, it just shows how much we get ripped off in Australia with spare parts, especially those from the U.S.
Yeah we cop a bit of a flogging with the Aussie dollar. In the USA they dont seem to understand that.
Have the same pulley problem with the JD 44" snow blower on the X300.
This might be a fix.
Brilliant video! Well detailed and nicely done! Thanks for sharing!!! 😃👍
Thanks glad you liked it.
Do you have to use loc washer and lock nut when put the bolts on
No as long as they dont come undone it doesnt matter how you do it.
I replaced the same idler pulley on my D130 for $12 at a local tractor shop.
Yeah we are in Australia and they were dear back then they are cheaper now by miles.
@@BundyBearsShed they were always cheap, 10 years ago about $12, not worth the hassle, did you check the price before you did it. I bought my first John Deere over 10 years ago after doing my homework on spare parts prices. John Deere were the cheapest and I am Australian.
@@johnheatherlees2129 jd service manager here. Before owning my own workshop yep did check.
@@BundyBearsShed John Lees Here I can only go on my experience I think the model of my JD was a 105 it was their cheapest model, it had a manual gearbox. At one stage I replaced the 2 plastic transmission clutch pulleys the were $7 and $9 dollars. I also replaced the 2 idler pulleys on the deck. I went to the local dealer and priced the pulley you repaired it was around $12 I also the other pulley because it was only $2 dearer. I was getting the parts from my local John Deere dealer in Maffra Victoria. I now have a JD Z235 Zero turn mower and a 1025R with a 54" deck on the strength of the original mower. I remember the prices because I could not get over how cheap they were in comparison to my previous ride ons.
Here in Canada, I bet that pulley from John Deere/Martin Equipment is over $100 and 40 days of ordering/shipping/wrong parts/delays/lost in transit. I avoid going near their shops for parts at all cost.
Stay gold.
Sounds like you need some bully new bearings in that drill-press, Mate!!! Cheeas!
G day Rick, yes it does I think it a left over from the ark, one of those jobs I have been meaning to do.
Needed to use some cutting fluid.
great fix. Sad thing is I remember when they made pulleys like that in the first place. Just goes to show that we live in a throwaway Society these days.
We do for sure.
Absolutely I worked in the repair department for my co. For twenty years, when I first started, we used to fix things, like actually take things a part and troubleshoot and order the individual parts as needed now, you can’t get the individual parts and have to replace whole assemblies, we always joke and say we used to work in the repair dept. now we work in the replace dept.
After that, I'd clean the top and especially the bottom of the mower deck. It extends the life of the mower deck.
Yes I should have but in a hurry, .lol.
I did this to my mower last year. Not as a mod but because I'm cheap!
ha ha next time it will be a quick job to change the bearing too.
Idler pulley of a Cummins isx is 80.00. We press the bearing out and the new bearing is $15.00. We have 6 trucks the savings on the bearing almost paid for the press
Yes a little bit of extra work once or twice can pay off well if you have the time to fiddle.
This is not a hack but a repair! LOL
Yeah probably
Let me ask you something about the physics involved here. If the weight of the spinning pulley is off, or the weight of the bolt/nut/washer is greater than the weight of the rivets, won't that cause an increase of the wear-and-tear on the bearings. You seem to know what you're talking about- but I just wanted to ask if any 9f that was considered.
I figured the bolts were evenly spaced so not a problem really. This same bearing is in there at 200hrs old now and seems to be working fine at this stage at least.
If bearing is just noisy but not wore and sloppy, try this. Drill a small hole through the seal and spray penetrating oil into the hole and spin pulley and repeated til the noise stops or is greatly reduced. Then grease using a grease needle adapter. Can seal hole with silicone or leave open so can grease occasionally.
Could help.
Problems with steering john deere 317 riderwhats wrong ?
Hard to say.
Great job Lance, really worked good.
G Day Lloyd, Yeah it is a nice easy fix I have been doing for years. I only just thought to video it lol.
Good job. Smart man.
Thanks.
I would only do this if I couldn’t get the pulley easily. Drill press is a must for this job.
G day James, You only need to do this the first time and after that it is just undo the bolts and replace the bearing. It appears in the USA they are a lot cheaper than over here in Australia.
It can be done with a hand held drill. I replaced the ball joints on my truck. The original ones were riveted on so I had to drill the tops off and then I had to relieve a large portion of the center of the rivet shaft (while leaving enough solid material to hammer out the rivet with a drive pin) to get them to drive out. The lowers had 1/2” rivets and I had to relieve 7/16” of the center of the rivet before I was able to drive it out. I was successful on all 8 rivets with the hand drill. This was also made more challenging as the rivets had a mushroom head.
Bearing costs between $6 & $7 dollars here in the US. The whole re-fit shouldn't take most then 2 hours so I'd fix it the same way. It may or may not fail again but if it does, it will be a 1/2 hour fix.
Bang on Craig, I only need to do this job once on this part.
I reckon there ought to be a law against non serviceable parts, it's the biggest rort ever cooked up not to mention environmentally unfriendly, this is by far the best vid I've seen on this topic, Aussie style,,,,my new second hand SuperZ 2004 model has all the deck idlers and the pump drive running noisy, louder than the engine !!!! I priced these little gems at the dealership ,,,,, $430 altogether, aint gunna happen.!!
BTW did you know the grease in those packed bearings is next to useless and very little of it too.
Yes a simple circlip to replace a bearing seems so easy.
Thank you, very clearly done
Well done my friend, you're the man!
Thank you kindly!
It's not about the price, its the fact he repaired. Not just replacing and throwing the old part out. Could you fix it or parts replacing.
Thanks Ted.
Thanks Mate! from Chicago......Yes we have grass to cut here!
Yes we do to after some rain.
I don't understand these people letter saying repack the bearing when a bearing wears out you can pack it all day if you want to you're not going to help it
Yeah I see that, when we can buy grease that fills bearing wear and pits Im buying some, lol.
don't know it this is against john deere, but I had to redo the entire top deck of my mower. bought a kit with the blade spindles, idler, and powered pulleys for about 80 USD. I also had some weld work done to the mower deck. cus my dad likes to run over things.
Nice work!
I think these are about $8.99 shipped on eBay. They have a bunch of different sets, every few years when they start rattling I would just go on there and pay about 30 bucks and replace all the pulleys with bearings in them. Spindles are cheap on there as well, just remember that the spindles have break-off bolts so you have to buy new ones. I think the spindles for my 48 inch John Deere deck were about $17 or $18 each. Way cheaper than the John Deere store.
Cheap alright but where is the fun in that? lol.
I just checked ebay. They are 42 $ plus 19 $ shipping each to Canada ( From the states. ) Not everyone is fortunate enough to be located where the parts are cheaper or where there is free shipping. Shipping in Canada is so expensive , its criminal ( Not always but often... and just imagine if you are in Northern Canada. )
@@ethics3 www.ebay.com/itm/264329798140 $15.95 with free shipping in the states, Canada is run by socialist so I’m sure the taxes and shipping will be ridiculous. 😂 It’s been a while but they had sets with all of the pulleys or all of the pulleys with bearings in them and I think it was like $34.57 for the set of 3 with the bearings.
@@ShaneZettelmier Its worse than you know ...
@@ethics3 Honestly if you guys don’t do something about Justin Trudeau you’re going to end up being on the wrong side of World War III. He’s literally training Chinese military right across America’s border. This isn’t going to end well
Hope you at least used lock nuts because I don't see any lock washers and the vibration will loosen regular nuts up within ten hours of mowing time.
They were nyloc.
Nice job, just use the right size bolts and no cutoff tool needed
Yes thats for sure just using what was around.
He said the shops were closed and that's what he had. Otherwise he'd have to wait and have down time. Hence the repair instead of replacing the broken part and a longer down time.
I've always wanted to do this hack
At our age it’s about having something to do, carry on.
Yes for sure.
When I was younger, and still had a drill press, I would change my u-joints on my vehicles. If the new joint didn't have a grease nipple in it I would first drill and tap a hole in the side and install one myself. We more or less live in a throw away society now... I really need to get a new drill press that's not made in china!
My drill is a cheapie too, might trade up one day.
great vid, nothing wrong with method , but old bearing was only dry and a good injection of good grease with a syringe probably would've seen it through till the pulley wore out.
Yes possibly but now I just need to undo the bolts and replace the bearing as required,
I'm with ya mate, just may save the bearing needing replacement so early. Btw I haven't checked mine anyway, putting my 2 cents worth of grease on the keyboard instead of my own bearing lol
lol keep your hands clean that way lol.
Not even 20 bucks in the US so I most likely wont bother...but its still interesting to watch and now it can be done.
thanks
I purchased my JD X304 in 2007. It & deck have over 850 hours on them. Only ever replaced 1 belt. Before I purchased I asked the JD dealer why so much cheaper at the 'box' stores? (Box stores = Lowes, Home Depot, etc. selling D and L series). JD does not warranty these series nor service them. Must return to or service by box store of purchase. These series are of lower quality intentionally for the box stores to be able to make profits. Discount quality = discount price = discount parts. I opted for longevity (quality) and reputable service. The hours accumulated are by mowing >1 acre regularly, leaf mulching in fall and pushing Chicago snow every winter. Some would say that the endless search for a discount inevitably drives Manufacturing in your own country to cheaper countries. Therefore, you only get what you pay for. Just my own opinion and worth no more or no less then anyone else's.
My mower was bought from the John Deere dealer here in Australia. I do probably 3 acres with it and overall happy. Im a shed bloke so I like to do this sort of thing.
@@BundyBearsShed
Roger that!
I'm a - if I see my neighbor in his shed tinkering on his tractor I'll bring over a couple of beers and offer to Tinker with him or just watch - kinda guy 😁 Cheers mate!
WOW BUNDY BEAR THEY ARE A TOUGH AUDIENCE FOR YOU ON THIS ONE.
I THINK MOST MISHEARD THE COST OF THE BEARING AND THINK YOU SPENT WAY TO MUCH!
I THOUGHT I HEARD 6 OR 7 DOLLARS.
I ENJOYED THE VIDEO AND COMMEND YOU FOR DOING THE REPAIR YOURSELF.
Yeah they go crook but miss the part about being in Australia and the exchange rate etc. The good thing is Google revenue goes into my account for watching and calling me a tight arse are all in US dollars so at so many views Im winning, lol. good little revenue stream.
To be honest, I’m to sure that the effort of doing this is worth it... a new pulley from JD is around $20...they aren’t expensive...
No they are not now a days, Im in Australia and they were a bit more expensive back then.
It helps to clean your deck and mower
lol yes it does.
On that pulley for the bearings there is a red cap that you can pull off use a grease gun with a needle and put grease in it and put the cap back on
Yes under the sheave.
No lube while drilling?
Not always but probably should.
Seems like there's a bit of a gap there in the pulley. Tighten the bolts more?
They are pressed tin and have a rolled surface there
Missing the boat on a way to prevent build-up on top of the deck , just add a fin on each bolt before tightening it down. Kinda like a leaf blower fin. This would create turbulence while spinning and help keep the top of mower deck free of leaves and grass clippings. Would probably need to be tweaked a little but in theory should work. Hey?
Yeah possibly.
Everyone's got a handful of 6203 bearings in the shed. When your 50 km from town and you were told to have the grass cut before dusk, what choice is there other than to fix the bloody thing yourself. You don't always have to buy, buy, buy!!!!
Steve
North avoca. N S W 🕥
Very true and mine always fails on a Sunday.