I’ve been lucky on my machines I’ve always been able to order two new sector plates with all new bushings and hardware..I double up the sector plates…It provides a great steering feel and stays tight much longer with no binding feel or slop making it much stronger out lasting the factory set up for many years..Doing this you are using twice the wear surface with two sector plates obviously meshing with twice the surface on the pinion gear and works perfect in my experience. I’ve even bolted the removable tooth section to the bottom of a non removable tooth sector plate like urs in the video it will bolt right to the bottom with adding some washers in places and playing around with it a bit so it’s not as bolt on friendly as jus doubling up two sectors like the one in ur video…but it’s worth every bit of the extra time and effort either way you do it because of the longevity and strength gain…a few extra minutes of my time and the mod is amazing…Great video thank you!
That's very interesting, and makes sense! If they made the sector plate teeth thicker, and the pinion gear a bit stronger I don't think they'd wear out nearly as much. Thanks for watching!
@@EliminatorPerformance exactly and that’s the result I get bye doing the mod to my old junkers and what a tremendous difference it makes..I doubt all are compatible to do it but I’ve done 4 in the last 10 years and all went together like it was designed that way.. maybe I was jus lucky but it has served the purpose very well..Thanks again!
I have had complete success in drilling out the non splined end very slightly so the pinion gear can be inverted. Stacking a section of Sector Plate would also help. Weld on one of the new short ones. I replace Plastic Bushings at the same time with Oil-lite ™ metal ones and some grease. Excellent tutorial as usual.
@@TheShadeTreeFixitMan all is well, took a little break to work on a project of mine, I'll be back sooner or later! Thanks for stopping by and checking in!
Good day Jake Yes I had to replace my steering shaft on yard works. Full steering shaft with gear attached. I could not see know to take gear off to rotate. Now for people who drive cheaper gmc trucks how much did this cost roughly. Thanks
Thanks for the concern, Jake tested negative a few times but had a bad time off it for 3 to 4 weeks. Presently taking a hiatus to build his 1967 Mustang.
Ingenious method of checking the hardness without a Rockwell hardness tester i was thinking a file would tell the difference but your method is much better and well thought out. Overall a very informative video and adding adjustable drag links if the proper fix for the wheel alignment.
Good, was taking a break to work on a project and then got really sick over Christmas for 3 weeks. I'll be back sooner or later! Thanks for checking in
@@EliminatorPerformance I'm glad to hear that you are ok. I was beginning to think that you got abducted. Hope to see a new video soon. Happy New Year. 😊✌🏿
Jake has taken a hiatus while he rebuilds a 1967 Mustang with his Pit Crew he will return and likely put up videos on that build. In the mean time i may do a few videos showing things that hopefully have not been on RUclips.
Yes sometimes you have to watch what you look up for parts because it can be deceiving on what you're trying to find for parts unless you go by the serial number series it is by thanks Jake for explaining that part we all would miss on this
I'm still active in the comments, just took a little vacation! Been doing RUclips for 7yrs straight, basically uploading weekly... it was time for a break lol I'll be back!
@@markkaplan1949 This is the Old Man @ EP provided Jake will edit and post a few of my videos i think you may enjoy them. At EP we try to post videos that are just not carb clean after carb clean if you know what i mean. I have a few new ideas i will be trying out.
@@philliphall5198 Nice to hear from you also we will be back with a few interesting videos and i believe Jake will be doing a series on the 67 Mustang build.
Jake, maybe you can put me in the right direction for solving a slight problem I’ve had with a White Outdoor/MTD LT542H. Something is making the Tecumseh 20HP V-twin with twin carb engine slow to start. Battery fully charged and valve lashes corrected long ago. I’ve ultrasonic cleaned the Vector carb bowls and integral parts plus replaced the 4 O-rings (The two at the bottom of the emulsion tubes were deformed and preventing the tubes from moving up and down). Confirmed fuel flows to carbs and solenoids function correctly. I’m pretty convinced it’s a fuel issue because once it fires it runs just fine. Will start immediately with a volatile sprayed into the intakes. I’ve run the tank dry and used fresh fuel with no change. I’m not familiar with how fast fuel should flow from the pump so the only thing I can think is the pump is just not making full pressure. Is that a possibility or is there something else of which I’m not aware going on?
Jakes out of town so hope this helps. I would guess that you mean it takes a while to get the engine to start on choke and not that the flywheel is hanging up. Sometimes the choke is not completely closing and a simple cable adjustment is all that is needed. Additionally it is likely the fuel pump or the pulse hose had a crack or the diaphragm had a pin hole in it causing poor volume of fuel delivery.
We have found that the Oregon replacement fuel pumps save our customers money and work very well. Hope your problem is the simple cable adjustment but for sure a fuel issue so likely the fuel pump. Since you said it ran fine on carb spray at least we know you have primed the fuel pump and if retrying and still takes a while to fire swap out the fuel pump but check to make sure the pulse line if not cracked thus lossing suction on the diaphragm.
@@waynestefinashen239 Thanks so much for your responses, Wayne! Can't tell you how much this means to me and how much it helps. I posted this question to 3 different RUclipsr's hoping to get at least one reply and so far yours has been the most precise and helpful one. I'm guessing you saw my post on Stella's livestream the other day about Vector carbs, which are on this machine. Whenever I get into an engine and have to detach throttle or choke cables I always use a paint marker on either side of the clamp to make sure I return them to the original position. In this case I had one of each. I did confirm at the outset that the choke plates closed completely, although the left one is just very slightly open due to the fact that the connecting rod between them may not be bent exactly correctly to get them both closed tightly. The plate is maybe 1/4 of a millimeter short of being fully closed - a hair's breadth. Although I initially thought that might be part of the slow or uneven starting issue, I eventually guessed that it wasn't and moved on to other things. As for the pulse line, now that I understand how these pumps work I can see how the integrity of that line is critical and will be checking it first to make sure it's OK before I even start with the pump. I've been studying Mikuni-style pumps, which I found out this is, and have found some good info about them including a video by Jeremy (MOWERMEDIC1) on disassembly and rebuilding. I also just found out this morning that earlier models didn't have diaphragms that were ethanol resistant, whereas now some are at least 10% ethanol resistant. Since I'm inclined to rebuild rather than replace, once I get the tractor delivered back to me I'll check to see if the existing carb can be disassembled and go from there. If it can't be, then I'll check out the Oregon one you mentioned, although I did find a metal one that can be disassembled for around $20. Thanks again for your help! Non-connected topic - you may see me hop on and off live streams like Stella's the other day pretty quickly. I'm not really social and value my time a lot. I go online pretty much purely to learn and if I'm not learning much or at a rate I can accept I usually move on. It is nice to put faces to names and channels and get a handle on who the creators are, but beyond that I'd just as soon be watching a repair video to learn or solve existing problems I've encountered. ;-) Happily, Jake's channel is one of those at the top of my list due to his excellent production values (audio, video, lighting) and lack of extraneous, off-topic clutter. At 76 I don't have a minute to waste! I average right around 150 hours/month (for the past 2+ years) watching YT videos on small engine work. LOL!!! Jake's one of my top two or three snowblower and lawn tractor channels any time I have a question. I have others for generators, chainsaws, leaf blowers, pole saws, etc.
@@Rein_Ciarfella Thanks for the kind words of encouragement Jake and i appreciate it immensely. I am 74 and have learned everything i know from my son Jake and by watching others on YT. I personally am subscribed to so many channels i have a hard time scrolling down the list to get to someone specifically that i want to watch
@@waynestefinashen239 Yup, dozens of YT channels and so little time. On my iPad I have them arranged into two folders - Primary and Secondary. Then I order them by the ones I use most often except I put new ones at the top until I’ve had enough time to evaluate their usefulness. On my iPhone I just scroll down the alphabetical list for the ones to which I’m subscribed. On my laptop I have a RUclips link on my Home Screen and then either type in the name of the channel or scroll down because what’s displayed often is synced to what I’ve been watching recently on the other two tools.
I have a scag cheetah with a kawasaki. No start no click no nothing. Safety switches bypassed, key switch is good. Battery is good. I'm at a loss. Any ideas ?
It's disgusting how companies like John Deere rip you off and design part to fail and you can't even flip the gear to get more use out of it but if you take a small file you can file the other end too much the splines
A fantastic video! Showing the gears and bushings and how the wear occurs, and the results of the wear would give any novice diy homeowner more than enough info on attempting this repair. Thank you for uploading this! 🙏🫶
GX25785BLE Steering Kit: amzn.to/47HepIq
GX20053 Pinion Gear: amzn.to/44tGBfh
GY21250 & GY21251 Drag Link: amzn.to/45qNC1C
Wheel Bearing Upgrade Video: ruclips.net/video/AB3d8_aZR6w/видео.htmlsi=RqrHNWVE3rFtqJh4
Steering Needle Bearing Upgrade (Poor Man's Power Steering): ruclips.net/video/Yk4K6slh5oo/видео.htmlsi=FyCAWLcZ1uIcVqm1
It would be nice if those plastic bushings were made of metal instead of the plastic
Self lubricating sintered bronze would be ok but i hear the Viton plastic bushings stand up way longer but i do not think these are Viton
@@waynestefinashen239 thanks for the info on the bushings that Jake had a video on the steering parts replacement on the John Deere mower 👌👍😎😁
Thanks for watching!
@@EliminatorPerformance your welcome Jake and be safe out there in the heat
Made to sale parts. Sadly 😢
I’ve been lucky on my machines I’ve always been able to order two new sector plates with all new bushings and hardware..I double up the sector plates…It provides a great steering feel and stays tight much longer with no binding feel or slop making it much stronger out lasting the factory set up for many years..Doing this you are using twice the wear surface with two sector plates obviously meshing with twice the surface on the pinion gear and works perfect in my experience. I’ve even bolted the removable tooth section to the bottom of a non removable tooth sector plate like urs in the video it will bolt right to the bottom with adding some washers in places and playing around with it a bit so it’s not as bolt on friendly as jus doubling up two sectors like the one in ur video…but it’s worth every bit of the extra time and effort either way you do it because of the longevity and strength gain…a few extra minutes of my time and the mod is amazing…Great video thank you!
That's very interesting, and makes sense! If they made the sector plate teeth thicker, and the pinion gear a bit stronger I don't think they'd wear out nearly as much. Thanks for watching!
@@EliminatorPerformance exactly and that’s the result I get bye doing the mod to my old junkers and what a tremendous difference it makes..I doubt all are compatible to do it but I’ve done 4 in the last 10 years and all went together like it was designed that way.. maybe I was jus lucky but it has served the purpose very well..Thanks again!
I have had complete success in drilling out the non splined end very slightly so the pinion gear can be inverted. Stacking a section of Sector Plate would also help. Weld on one of the new short ones. I replace Plastic Bushings at the same time with Oil-lite ™ metal ones and some grease. Excellent tutorial as usual.
Good tips Gord, thanks for watching!
Thanks. Still looking for the 18 tooth EZee Steer Snowblower part.
you diffinatly made it lot better no wobble.
Thanks for watching!
Haven't seen you posting lately. I always enjoy your videos. Hope all is well with you.
@@TheShadeTreeFixitMan all is well, took a little break to work on a project of mine, I'll be back sooner or later! Thanks for stopping by and checking in!
Good day Jake Yes I had to replace my steering shaft on yard works. Full steering shaft with gear attached. I could not see know to take gear off to rotate. Now for people who drive cheaper gmc trucks how much did this cost roughly. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Thanks jake bud
Thanks for watching!
Hi there, great video, thanks! What’s the marine grease you recommend? Many thanks.
I use some marine grease from Canadian tire here in Canada, nothing in particular, whatever is on sale.
WAYNE!! If Jake is sick has he done a Covid test? If positive and 5 or less days since contracting it he can get Paxlovid and recover fairly soon.
Thanks for the concern, Jake tested negative a few times but had a bad time off it for 3 to 4 weeks. Presently taking a hiatus to build his 1967 Mustang.
Thanks Jake you did all the work for me. Say hi to your Dad for me
Thanks for watching, will do!
👍👍👍.Thanks Jake
Thanks for watching!
Ingenious method of checking the hardness without a Rockwell hardness tester i was thinking a file would tell the difference but your method is much better and well thought out. Overall a very informative video and adding adjustable drag links if the proper fix for the wheel alignment.
Thanks for watching, and yes the spring loaded center punch was a great way to DIY Rockwell Hardness Test
Great job brother 👏
Thanks for watching!
Where in the world have you been? I haven't seen a video from you in months. Are you ok?🤷🏿♂️🤷🏿♂️🤷🏿♂️🤷🏿♂️🤷🏿♂️🤔
Good, was taking a break to work on a project and then got really sick over Christmas for 3 weeks. I'll be back sooner or later! Thanks for checking in
@@EliminatorPerformance I'm glad to hear that you are ok. I was beginning to think that you got abducted. Hope to see a new video soon. Happy New Year. 😊✌🏿
Where have u been , hope u are well !
Jake has taken a hiatus while he rebuilds a 1967 Mustang with his Pit Crew he will return and likely put up videos on that build. In the mean time i may do a few videos showing things that hopefully have not been on RUclips.
phones listen to conversations. I was just explaining to a customer that these needed replaced and boom. first video on youtube.
Yea sometimes that happens to me with Facebook ads lol
Yep you were coming in loud and clear and i know your right on the phones so do TVs
Yes sometimes you have to watch what you look up for parts because it can be deceiving on what you're trying to find for parts unless you go by the serial number series it is by thanks Jake for explaining that part we all would miss on this
Thanks for watching!
One of the finest channels on the tube.
Thanks for watching!
Does does parts
On D110 steering plate, gear,and part for wheel rod part inter changeable
I want to say a Thank You to you and father 😊😊
Very Happy with every one of your videos and your knowledge plus parts list ❤
How about the Poor Man's power steering roller bearings on that sector plate?
Great thinking thanks for watching. Personally i do not think it would improve longevity of the steering system and may hinder it.
Although if the plastic bushings had bearings internally i think it would work better.
very good
Is this channel still operating seems to have died off ?
I'm still active in the comments, just took a little vacation! Been doing RUclips for 7yrs straight, basically uploading weekly... it was time for a break lol I'll be back!
@@EliminatorPerformance That is great news !!!
@@markkaplan1949 This is the Old Man @ EP provided Jake will edit and post a few of my videos i think you may enjoy them. At EP we try to post videos that are just not carb clean after carb clean if you know what i mean. I have a few new ideas i will be trying out.
I thought utube was screwing me over, happy to hear from you 😊
@@philliphall5198 Nice to hear from you also we will be back with a few interesting videos and i believe Jake will be doing a series on the 67 Mustang build.
Jake, maybe you can put me in the right direction for solving a slight problem I’ve had with a White Outdoor/MTD LT542H. Something is making the Tecumseh 20HP V-twin with twin carb engine slow to start. Battery fully charged and valve lashes corrected long ago. I’ve ultrasonic cleaned the Vector carb bowls and integral parts plus replaced the 4 O-rings (The two at the bottom of the emulsion tubes were deformed and preventing the tubes from moving up and down). Confirmed fuel flows to carbs and solenoids function correctly. I’m pretty convinced it’s a fuel issue because once it fires it runs just fine. Will start immediately with a volatile sprayed into the intakes. I’ve run the tank dry and used fresh fuel with no change. I’m not familiar with how fast fuel should flow from the pump so the only thing I can think is the pump is just not making full pressure. Is that a possibility or is there something else of which I’m not aware going on?
Jakes out of town so hope this helps. I would guess that you mean it takes a while to get the engine to start on choke and not that the flywheel is hanging up. Sometimes the choke is not completely closing and a simple cable adjustment is all that is needed. Additionally it is likely the fuel pump or the pulse hose had a crack or the diaphragm had a pin hole in it causing poor volume of fuel delivery.
We have found that the Oregon replacement fuel pumps save our customers money and work very well. Hope your problem is the simple cable adjustment but for sure a fuel issue so likely the fuel pump. Since you said it ran fine on carb spray at least we know you have primed the fuel pump and if retrying and still takes a while to fire swap out the fuel pump but check to make sure the pulse line if not cracked thus lossing suction on the diaphragm.
@@waynestefinashen239
Thanks so much for your responses, Wayne! Can't tell you how much this means to me and how much it helps. I posted this question to 3 different RUclipsr's hoping to get at least one reply and so far yours has been the most precise and helpful one. I'm guessing you saw my post on Stella's livestream the other day about Vector carbs, which are on this machine.
Whenever I get into an engine and have to detach throttle or choke cables I always use a paint marker on either side of the clamp to make sure I return them to the original position. In this case I had one of each. I did confirm at the outset that the choke plates closed completely, although the left one is just very slightly open due to the fact that the connecting rod between them may not be bent exactly correctly to get them both closed tightly. The plate is maybe 1/4 of a millimeter short of being fully closed - a hair's breadth. Although I initially thought that might be part of the slow or uneven starting issue, I eventually guessed that it wasn't and moved on to other things.
As for the pulse line, now that I understand how these pumps work I can see how the integrity of that line is critical and will be checking it first to make sure it's OK before I even start with the pump.
I've been studying Mikuni-style pumps, which I found out this is, and have found some good info about them including a video by Jeremy (MOWERMEDIC1) on disassembly and rebuilding. I also just found out this morning that earlier models didn't have diaphragms that were ethanol resistant, whereas now some are at least 10% ethanol resistant. Since I'm inclined to rebuild rather than replace, once I get the tractor delivered back to me I'll check to see if the existing carb can be disassembled and go from there. If it can't be, then I'll check out the Oregon one you mentioned, although I did find a metal one that can be disassembled for around $20.
Thanks again for your help!
Non-connected topic - you may see me hop on and off live streams like Stella's the other day pretty quickly. I'm not really social and value my time a lot. I go online pretty much purely to learn and if I'm not learning much or at a rate I can accept I usually move on. It is nice to put faces to names and channels and get a handle on who the creators are, but beyond that I'd just as soon be watching a repair video to learn or solve existing problems I've encountered. ;-) Happily, Jake's channel is one of those at the top of my list due to his excellent production values (audio, video, lighting) and lack of extraneous, off-topic clutter. At 76 I don't have a minute to waste! I average right around 150 hours/month (for the past 2+ years) watching YT videos on small engine work. LOL!!! Jake's one of my top two or three snowblower and lawn tractor channels any time I have a question. I have others for generators, chainsaws, leaf blowers, pole saws, etc.
@@Rein_Ciarfella Thanks for the kind words of encouragement Jake and i appreciate it immensely. I am 74 and have learned everything i know from my son Jake and by watching others on YT. I personally am subscribed to so many channels i have a hard time scrolling down the list to get to someone specifically that i want to watch
@@waynestefinashen239
Yup, dozens of YT channels and so little time. On my iPad I have them arranged into two folders - Primary and Secondary. Then I order them by the ones I use most often except I put new ones at the top until I’ve had enough time to evaluate their usefulness.
On my iPhone I just scroll down the alphabetical list for the ones to which I’m subscribed.
On my laptop I have a RUclips link on my Home Screen and then either type in the name of the channel or scroll down because what’s displayed often is synced to what I’ve been watching recently on the other two tools.
Man you are so pedagogik and i need that. You have helped me with youre videos . Tanks man and big big hug from Uppsala.
Thanks for watching, cheers from Ontario Canada!
I have a scag cheetah with a kawasaki. No start no click no nothing. Safety switches bypassed, key switch is good. Battery is good. I'm at a loss. Any ideas ?
Check that 12 volts is going to the solenoid if it is then check the solenoid likely faulty
It's disgusting how companies like John Deere rip you off and design part to fail and you can't even flip the gear to get more use out of it but if you take a small file you can file the other end too much the splines
If you wanted to take the time and make that effort ok with us but we need to move equipment in and out since time is worth a lot of $
Hey man do u work on a lot of Kohler courage's engines
Would not say a lot but we have worked on a few, luckily they were not ones that develope the engine block crack.
I ordered the wrong one and reordered, but used the wrong one in three days, love it 😊
A fantastic video! Showing the gears and bushings and how the wear occurs, and the results of the wear would give any novice diy homeowner more than enough info on attempting this repair. Thank you for uploading this! 🙏🫶