if you put '22:20 Conclusion' in your video description, it will work as a timestamp, and make that section easy to find. You can put it down at the bottom :)
@@Andrew-hr5onCreality had an update with the v3 and it seemed to improve the first layer bed adhesion. If you're still having trouble you should try either increasing your flow 1 to 3 in the expert mode screen. Just go one at a time slowly. once you find the number that works best for you, you can adjust it in your slicer. Another way to make it a bit better would be to increase your initial layer height to .21-.22 Im sorry I havent put a video out on this yet. I ran into an issue with my v3 and my tool head cpu went out on me so im im waiting for some replacement parts :/ I did however finally modify a light attachment for the v3 that attaches directly on to the printer! Im excited to release it!
As much as you try levelling the first layer, each offset point will always impact on the next point and so on, no bed auto level will be 100% no matter how many times you try. No build plate or pei sheet will be either there will uneven spots. Plus most printers these start in the and work outwards so the middle wear the most over time with cleaning etc. just an observation I have found. I use the e3 v3 se.
Yeah you are totally right. I had learned through experience for sure.. I did this test like 8 times. Now that there has been a new update the first layer is better than before. Not perfect, like you mentioned its sorta impossible to be. But alot better for sure. Soon as my v3 is back up and running ill have my review on it and I can finally compare it to my belted ender 3!
how did you solve the issue? I have same problem with KE: on the half of the first layer there are overextrusion, while on the other half - nozzle is too far like in your test. Don't know how to solve it really and what can be the reasons for that
So I was going to make a video on how to get the best first layer sheet but my computer battery fried on me last night so it would be at least a week before I'd get it posted. I'll just sorta give you a run down on how I got my best first layer sheet. I ran 10 first layer tests (tinkering with the settings each time)before I got my best one. It was a lot of trail and error considering the sheets took 40 minutes print time each and at least 15-20 minutes of prep time/ slicer adjusting. It's really a hit or a miss each time I believe with how well your printer's bed mesh will be calibrated. I can't really say if each time you would need to increase your z by .025 or decrease it. It is best to set at least a skirt of 3 so you can visually and swiftly adjust your z on the fly in the expert mode setting on the printers screen. Ultimately I found out that if you use a .25 initial layer height you'll get your best first layer sheet. I don't believe a lot of people are printing prints that require a single layer like that that covers the entire bed. You'd basically only do this if you're doing first layer tests like these or making PLA paper haha. Out of the 10 sheets of PLA paper I have my best looking one is the one with the initial layer height set to .25 and just adjust the z on the fly in expert mode, keep everything else the same I'd say. To be honest, my v3 is my go to printer for filling the entire bed with models and having the highest success rate. I believe we have the core xz kinematics to thank for that. We basically have to worry about a warped bed at this point because we have the closest thing to a core xy machine!
@@Reds3DPrinting thank you! I made like 8 tests in total and still don't get where is the issue:) I believe it should count and adapt to calibration matrix but its not. In my case if I will make Z offset lower - right side of my "paper" is almost ok, but in the same time - left side is horrible because nozzle scratches "paper". In the same time if I make left side of the bed looks okay by making z offset a little up - right side became horrible because its too far from bed. Meantime the calibration of the bed shows pretty much consistent numbers. And the bed looks pretty much without any bumps visible
This printer just has issues with first layer, it's not under-extrusion issue, it's more leveling issue. Update that they have sent did not really fix that issue. Do not use glue on this build plate and do not use scraper, that will damage your build plate.
Cool, was looking for a first layer test. Hope you post a newer attempt real quick with the settings you use :-) as long as I don't see a perfect first layer, I'm kind of scared to buy as it would be my first printer :B
Hey Doc! Thanks for your comment! Im working on a video now, I spent like 8 hours yesterday doing all sorta of first layer tests. I think learning the Creality slicer was the biggest learning curve for me. If you don't decide to get the v3 I think the KE would be your next best bet! Getting into 3d printing is like the greatest thing ive ever done for myself! haha Let me know if you have any questions or if you want to see anything else in particular! :D
i swapped my KE for the v3 no way i was able to do a layer like that out of the box with ke , look up all the fixes designed for the ke , the v3 has sorted them out it seems 99% atleast@@Reds3DPrinting
@@Andrew-hr5on yess, there was an update that fixed pretty much 90 percent of any issues the v3 had at first. I had a cable and the tool head CPU go out on me so I'm waiting on support right now :/
i think the latest firmware has fixed that 1st layer issue I am still waiting on the V3 delivery , i spoke to support regarding your video and they said they adjusted it in the setting in the firmware ruclips.net/user/shortsJQLzpB0wJtk?si=2DkMS7X4MrQcMsQ- I am kind of glad The USA was kind of like the guinea pigs prior to being released in Australia lol im looking at another 2 weeks before I receive the 2 x V3s in my opinion coming from the Ender 3 v1 > Ender 3 KE was a HUGE LEAP i was fascinated and used for 1 month > then i realised it couldnt do a out of the box first layer like what you did , that was 98% now i beleive the perfected it plus after 2nd layer your 1st issue would be sorted , iwith the KE i coudlnt even CORNER TO CORNER 1st layer , doing a center square is fine but not entire build plate Thats why there was a ehole KE community looking for a fix and they sorted it , here what you need to do , i couldnt be bothere since the core XZ seems to have addressed the issues for all KE people wanting to fix 1st >>> www.printables.com/model/694446-ender-3-v3-se-ke-d3d-y-rails/ Now just waiting for the 2 V3.to arrive.. I honestly think you cant beat the tech in the v3 it is an open easy to modify version of the K1 max the auto level is higher tech than the KE.. man i cant wait to get them i loved the KE so just imagine how much im going to love the v3 @@Reds3DPrinting
Please enlighten me, why would anyone use glue stick on the textured PEI surface? Are you printing with a cold bed? In my experience, the textured PEI flexplate holds the print pretty securely as long as it is clean and heated 🙂
@@lukassembol7542 i usually don't use glue. But on a long print, such as 15+ hrs, it's cheap insurance. Would stink to be 90% through a tall print and have it loose adhesion from the bed even on a textured pei at 65-70c. It can happen, even if it's a rare occurrence. A bed slinger has allot of shaking going on. I was printing a gift T-Rex 🦖 with allot of tree supports for the trail and upper body. It lost adhesion, one of the supports detached, and a woke to a 12 hr spaghetti monster print. I use it more on my smooth engineering plate with TPU and PETG as a release interface.
@@lukassembol7542 The liquid Bambu glue doesn't leave any residue at all. It literally just leaves the bed feeling a tad sticky almost like when you spill soda on the counter and it gets that gross sticky. It just ensures that none of the print will peel up. This really only would of mattered if the z was set too high or the belts were loose so I really didn't NEED the glue but im just really used to using it pretty much all the time as a safety measure to ensure the print will turn out no matter what. Its especially helpful when printing articulating prints.. nothing more frustrating than one of the dragons legs or body segments popping off the bed before the prints finished! :p
Right now we are only able to use Creality Print slicer, until Creality gives us ROOT access which I expect they will be doing real soon. I essentially used the stock settings for this printer
Looks good to me, congrats mate. If you root your machine you might consider switching to Orca Slicer. Run the calibrations and you can go even faster than this.
Thanks you very much! I am very excited to get root access and be able to use those slicers. They really have way more options for a finer calibrated print!
Yep you are totally right! as long as the bed gets washed every now and again with soap and water there really should be no issues getting prints to stick on the textured plate
Just wanted to remind everyone to make sure you subscribe and turn on bell notifications to stay notified for when I go live with Kevin and Zora from Creality to give away the sonic pad that I won from their Livestream! You will not want to miss out on this! My channel is small so you have great odds of winning! I'm super thankful for 750 subscribers! I look forward to hitting 1k soon! Also keep your eyes peeled for some K1C content coming soon!
This test was with the totally stock settings, I am going to redo this test while adjusting the Z height in the expert mode option. The expert mode option only allows you to set the z height during a print. So I am unsure if this is something that would need to be done before every print or not. (Remember folks this is just temporary until the software becomes rooted and open source) That is why I mentioned adjusting the flow in the video instead. There are many options and roads to go down. I am working on the expert mode z height video now, if that isnt the easy solution I think it will be I will start playing with flow
Your opinion means a lot still though! You're on to something for sure, it makes a difference and I took that into consideration with the next 8 tests I did! As long as the bed is washed with soap and water often glue stick is completely unnecessary anyway
if you put '22:20 Conclusion' in your video description, it will work as a timestamp, and make that section easy to find. You can put it down at the bottom :)
That is a great tip, I will do that right now! Thank you very much!
Excellent video. Thank you very much for taking this test. I agree with you, that a small adjustment to the zoffset should resolve the issue.
Thanks buddy! I'm gonna make a few small adjustments and do it again. I seriously think some super minor adjustments can make it near perfect!
Be good if u could do it again and adjust the flow rate to see how it turns out and post the flow settings
You got it I will do that once Im finished with the print I have going right now
waiting :)@@Reds3DPrinting
@@Andrew-hr5onCreality had an update with the v3 and it seemed to improve the first layer bed adhesion. If you're still having trouble you should try either increasing your flow 1 to 3 in the expert mode screen. Just go one at a time slowly. once you find the number that works best for you, you can adjust it in your slicer. Another way to make it a bit better would be to increase your initial layer height to .21-.22
Im sorry I havent put a video out on this yet.
I ran into an issue with my v3 and my tool head cpu went out on me so im im waiting for some replacement parts :/
I did however finally modify a light attachment for the v3 that attaches directly on to the printer!
Im excited to release it!
Or step into the big leagues root it and run klipprr that 1 at a time bullshit ain't getting us anywhere fast😂
@@BIGGESTxHEAD are you referring to the exclude object feature when you mention one at a time??
As much as you try levelling the first layer, each offset point will always impact on the next point and so on, no bed auto level will be 100% no matter how many times you try. No build plate or pei sheet will be either there will uneven spots. Plus most printers these start in the and work outwards so the middle wear the most over time with cleaning etc. just an observation I have found.
I use the e3 v3 se.
Yeah you are totally right. I had learned through experience for sure.. I did this test like 8 times. Now that there has been a new update the first layer is better than before. Not perfect, like you mentioned its sorta impossible to be. But alot better for sure. Soon as my v3 is back up and running ill have my review on it and I can finally compare it to my belted ender 3!
how did you solve the issue?
I have same problem with KE: on the half of the first layer there are overextrusion, while on the other half - nozzle is too far like in your test.
Don't know how to solve it really and what can be the reasons for that
So I was going to make a video on how to get the best first layer sheet but my computer battery fried on me last night so it would be at least a week before I'd get it posted.
I'll just sorta give you a run down on how I got my best first layer sheet.
I ran 10 first layer tests (tinkering with the settings each time)before I got my best one. It was a lot of trail and error considering the sheets took 40 minutes print time each and at least 15-20 minutes of prep time/ slicer adjusting.
It's really a hit or a miss each time I believe with how well your printer's bed mesh will be calibrated. I can't really say if each time you would need to increase your z by .025 or decrease it.
It is best to set at least a skirt of 3 so you can visually and swiftly adjust your z on the fly in the expert mode setting on the printers screen.
Ultimately I found out that if you use a .25 initial layer height you'll get your best first layer sheet.
I don't believe a lot of people are printing prints that require a single layer like that that covers the entire bed. You'd basically only do this if you're doing first layer tests like these or making PLA paper haha.
Out of the 10 sheets of PLA paper I have my best looking one is the one with the initial layer height set to .25 and just adjust the z on the fly in expert mode, keep everything else the same I'd say.
To be honest, my v3 is my go to printer for filling the entire bed with models and having the highest success rate. I believe we have the core xz kinematics to thank for that. We basically have to worry about a warped bed at this point because we have the closest thing to a core xy machine!
@@Reds3DPrinting thank you! I made like 8 tests in total and still don't get where is the issue:)
I believe it should count and adapt to calibration matrix but its not.
In my case if I will make Z offset lower - right side of my "paper" is almost ok, but in the same time - left side is horrible because nozzle scratches "paper". In the same time if I make left side of the bed looks okay by making z offset a little up - right side became horrible because its too far from bed.
Meantime the calibration of the bed shows pretty much consistent numbers. And the bed looks pretty much without any bumps visible
good video, very informative. Thanks!!
Thank you very much Kevin! :)
This printer just has issues with first layer, it's not under-extrusion issue, it's more leveling issue. Update that they have sent did not really fix that issue. Do not use glue on this build plate and do not use scraper, that will damage your build plate.
Oh yeah, that update was awesome! It improved a lot! Thanks abounch for the tips!
Cool, was looking for a first layer test. Hope you post a newer attempt real quick with the settings you use :-) as long as I don't see a perfect first layer, I'm kind of scared to buy as it would be my first printer :B
Hey Doc! Thanks for your comment! Im working on a video now, I spent like 8 hours yesterday doing all sorta of first layer tests.
I think learning the Creality slicer was the biggest learning curve for me.
If you don't decide to get the v3 I think the KE would be your next best bet!
Getting into 3d printing is like the greatest thing ive ever done for myself! haha
Let me know if you have any questions or if you want to see anything else in particular! :D
@@Reds3DPrintingthanks for your reply, looking forward to your next update
i swapped my KE for the v3 no way i was able to do a layer like that out of the box with ke , look up all the fixes designed for the ke , the v3 has sorted them out it seems 99% atleast@@Reds3DPrinting
@@Andrew-hr5on yess, there was an update that fixed pretty much 90 percent of any issues the v3 had at first. I had a cable and the tool head CPU go out on me so I'm waiting on support right now :/
i think the latest firmware has fixed that 1st layer issue I am still waiting on the V3 delivery , i spoke to support regarding your video and they said they adjusted it in the setting in the firmware
ruclips.net/user/shortsJQLzpB0wJtk?si=2DkMS7X4MrQcMsQ-
I am kind of glad The USA was kind of like the guinea pigs prior to being released in Australia lol im looking at another 2 weeks before I receive the 2 x V3s in my opinion coming from the Ender 3 v1 > Ender 3 KE was a HUGE LEAP i was fascinated and used for 1 month > then i realised it couldnt do a out of the box first layer like what you did , that was 98% now i beleive the perfected it plus after 2nd layer your 1st issue would be sorted , iwith the KE i coudlnt even CORNER TO CORNER 1st layer , doing a center square is fine but not entire build plate
Thats why there was a ehole KE community looking for a fix and they sorted it , here what you need to do , i couldnt be bothere since the core XZ seems to have addressed the issues for all KE people wanting to fix 1st >>> www.printables.com/model/694446-ender-3-v3-se-ke-d3d-y-rails/
Now just waiting for the 2 V3.to arrive.. I honestly think you cant beat the tech in the v3 it is an open easy to modify version of the K1 max the auto level is higher tech than the KE.. man i cant wait to get them i loved the KE so just imagine how much im going to love the v3
@@Reds3DPrinting
I use that BL liquid glue too. It's the good stuff.
Right! I dont think I can ever go back to regular glue stick after using this stuff
Please enlighten me, why would anyone use glue stick on the textured PEI surface? Are you printing with a cold bed? In my experience, the textured PEI flexplate holds the print pretty securely as long as it is clean and heated 🙂
@@lukassembol7542 i usually don't use glue. But on a long print, such as 15+ hrs, it's cheap insurance. Would stink to be 90% through a tall print and have it loose adhesion from the bed even on a textured pei at 65-70c. It can happen, even if it's a rare occurrence. A bed slinger has allot of shaking going on. I was printing a gift T-Rex 🦖 with allot of tree supports for the trail and upper body. It lost adhesion, one of the supports detached, and a woke to a 12 hr spaghetti monster print.
I use it more on my smooth engineering plate with TPU and PETG as a release interface.
@@lukassembol7542 The liquid Bambu glue doesn't leave any residue at all. It literally just leaves the bed feeling a tad sticky almost like when you spill soda on the counter and it gets that gross sticky.
It just ensures that none of the print will peel up.
This really only would of mattered if the z was set too high or the belts were loose so I really didn't NEED the glue but im just really used to using it pretty much all the time as a safety measure to ensure the print will turn out no matter what. Its especially helpful when printing articulating prints.. nothing more frustrating than one of the dragons legs or body segments popping off the bed before the prints finished! :p
@@BennyTygohome That is the worst when that happens!
Good job, thx
Thanks for taking the time to comment! :)
Which sliceng software using. How to setting for speed print configurations.
Right now we are only able to use Creality Print slicer, until Creality gives us ROOT access which I expect they will be doing real soon.
I essentially used the stock settings for this printer
@@Reds3DPrinting thanks for reply
Looks good to me, congrats mate. If you root your machine you might consider switching to Orca Slicer. Run the calibrations and you can go even faster than this.
Thanks you very much! I am very excited to get root access and be able to use those slicers. They really have way more options for a finer calibrated print!
why using glue on PEI bed. you can use it but its not required for PLA,PETG or ABS
Yep you are totally right!
as long as the bed gets washed every now and again with soap and water there really should be no issues getting prints to stick on the textured plate
Have you checked your esteps? Id check that before increasing the flow. 100% should be 100% 😊. IMHO
Good thinking, I will check that out right now actually.
Just wanted to remind everyone to make sure you subscribe and turn on bell notifications to stay notified for when I go live with Kevin and Zora from Creality to give away the sonic pad that I won from their Livestream!
You will not want to miss out on this! My channel is small so you have great odds of winning!
I'm super thankful for 750 subscribers! I look forward to hitting 1k soon!
Also keep your eyes peeled for some K1C content coming soon!
This test was with the totally stock settings, I am going to redo this test while adjusting the Z height in the expert mode option.
The expert mode option only allows you to set the z height during a print. So I am unsure if this is something that would need to be done before every print or not. (Remember folks this is just temporary until the software becomes rooted and open source)
That is why I mentioned adjusting the flow in the video instead.
There are many options and roads to go down. I am working on the expert mode z height video now, if that isnt the easy solution I think it will be I will start playing with flow
Your inconsistent layer of glue doesn’t help. I think a first layer test is meant to be done without adhesive but I’m just a viewer haha
Your opinion means a lot still though!
You're on to something for sure, it makes a difference and I took that into consideration with the next 8 tests I did!
As long as the bed is washed with soap and water often glue stick is completely unnecessary anyway