We just put a wood stove in (new EPA rated) and long story short when we open the lower air intake or close it there's not much difference in the size of fire, Manufacture said we absolutely need a direct air vent. Ive seen a handful of other video's that have our stove and no air vent and their air intake lever when open makes a huge difference in the size of fire...any thoughts?
I have an 8kw multi fuel burner, it's an old 1930s house and I do not have an air vent. The burner works very well with excellent draw. Is it safe to operate like this..
In your experience, is it normal to have a direct air kit installed within the fireplace recess? I ask because Document J (1.10) says "air vents should not be located within a fireplace recess except on the basis of specialist advice". I was planning to install a Parkray Aspect 8 with their Direct Air kit, but I'm now considering getting a
Generally with air vents they suggest an air exchange across the room. Obviously with direct air there is no air exchange at all, so it is very normal for these to be fitted straight through the back of the fireplace. As always it is your fitter, as there are many other factors to consider, but typically there is no issue with what you’re proposing.
Hi Gabriel, I recently bought a 5kw stove, i know i dont need an air vent but i would like one, i'd have liked to buy one with direct air but the models i found were out of my price range. my house is 1920s and im sure air getting to the fire wont be a problem but i dont want cold air being dragged into the lounge - I want to put the vent in the floor beneath the stove (or behind) and pipe under the floor to an external airbrick - can you see any problems with this? love the channel and many thanks
Generally regulators want the air to exchange across the room. So the requirements for air vents generally is it must be either connected to the stove, or away from the stove.
The main manufacturer of vents is Rytons, but they’re not very nice looking. I would pick the thing that looked nice. I live in an old place so I’d be much more likely to go to a reclamation yard and find an old cast iron thing that looked nice. The only key thing as far as regs is concerned is that it can’t be closed and that it is the correct size. I’d perhaps buy the correct size pipe to put through the wall, and then I’d get a little more creative with finishes so that it looked right with my home.
If you want to do a 'direct vent' can you take it from under the floor boards? I am in an old victorian property and its well ventilated down there and the stove would be 5kw
On a 5kw you don’t need an air vent at all, but you often can vent a direct air stove downwards. Some vents are on the back of the stove which is a bit more annoying because you need bends etc, but most modern freestanding stoves allow you to vent straight through the base of the stove.
Am looking for answers. Getting conflicting info. I have a pellet stove in finished bsmt. Got it with house purchase. First winter. Damp air in this region. Common problem with cold floor drafts. Dealer says no to outside air intake because damp air will cause problems. I cant see much info that supports the damp air issue. Anyone? Have an HRV as well. Dont want to run that 24/7 to keep fresh air just for stove. Frustrating problem! Oak kit or not? Then need a way to "dry" the air before it gets to stove. Some moisture absorbing bucket or ??? Grasping here!
Sorry, but I cannot make head nor tail of any of that. Can you explain it in simpler terms without the Jargon and abbreviation, because my simple mind is lost.
wouldnt it be good to mention also that anyone who has an open plan downstairs where the kitchen is open to the room that has the log burner should really have a vent, this is because of the extractor fans in cooker hoods will reduce airflow to the logburner
We just put a wood stove in (new EPA rated) and long story short when we open the lower air intake or close it there's not much difference in the size of fire, Manufacture said we absolutely need a direct air vent. Ive seen a handful of other video's that have our stove and no air vent and their air intake lever when open makes a huge difference in the size of fire...any thoughts?
Are you struggling to get it to blaze, or to close it down?
What are you burning?
How old is your house roughly?
I have an 8kw multi fuel burner, it's an old 1930s house and I do not have an air vent. The burner works very well with excellent draw. Is it safe to operate like this..
In your experience, is it normal to have a direct air kit installed within the fireplace recess?
I ask because Document J (1.10) says "air vents should not be located within a fireplace recess except on the basis of specialist advice". I was planning to install a Parkray Aspect 8 with their Direct Air kit, but I'm now considering getting a
Generally with air vents they suggest an air exchange across the room. Obviously with direct air there is no air exchange at all, so it is very normal for these to be fitted straight through the back of the fireplace. As always it is your fitter, as there are many other factors to consider, but typically there is no issue with what you’re proposing.
Hi Gabriel, I recently bought a 5kw stove, i know i dont need an air vent but i would like one, i'd have liked to buy one with direct air but the models i found were out of my price range. my house is 1920s and im sure air getting to the fire wont be a problem but i dont want cold air being dragged into the lounge - I want to put the vent in the floor beneath the stove (or behind) and pipe under the floor to an external airbrick - can you see any problems with this?
love the channel and many thanks
Generally regulators want the air to exchange across the room. So the requirements for air vents generally is it must be either connected to the stove, or away from the stove.
Any recommendations on the type of air vent? Thanks!!!
The main manufacturer of vents is Rytons, but they’re not very nice looking. I would pick the thing that looked nice. I live in an old place so I’d be much more likely to go to a reclamation yard and find an old cast iron thing that looked nice. The only key thing as far as regs is concerned is that it can’t be closed and that it is the correct size. I’d perhaps buy the correct size pipe to put through the wall, and then I’d get a little more creative with finishes so that it looked right with my home.
I think they all come in 4 inches my stove came 4 inches .
If you want to do a 'direct vent' can you take it from under the floor boards? I am in an old victorian property and its well ventilated down there and the stove would be 5kw
On a 5kw you don’t need an air vent at all, but you often can vent a direct air stove downwards. Some vents are on the back of the stove which is a bit more annoying because you need bends etc, but most modern freestanding stoves allow you to vent straight through the base of the stove.
Am looking for answers. Getting conflicting info. I have a pellet stove in finished bsmt. Got it with house purchase. First winter. Damp air in this region. Common problem with cold floor drafts. Dealer says no to outside air intake because damp air will cause problems. I cant see much info that supports the damp air issue. Anyone? Have an HRV as well. Dont want to run that 24/7 to keep fresh air just for stove. Frustrating problem! Oak kit or not? Then need a way to "dry" the air before it gets to stove. Some moisture absorbing bucket or ??? Grasping here!
Sorry, but I cannot make head nor tail of any of that. Can you explain it in simpler terms without the Jargon and abbreviation, because my simple mind is lost.
wouldnt it be good to mention also that anyone who has an open plan downstairs where the kitchen is open to the room that has the log burner should really have a vent, this is because of the extractor fans in cooker hoods will reduce airflow to the logburner