The acrylic tweeter adapters you made were absolutely fantastic!! Morel has always been a favorite of mine for years. I own an F150, and you guys have given me some great ideas!! Fantastic install!!
Got the KEY 200.4 running 2 sets of Kicker KSS6504s in my '01 Highlander...great little amp and HUGE upgrade over my 20 year old factory Pioneers. Mic calibration works pretty well. Sound treated both front doors, already notice a definite difference in road noise, overall ride smoothness, and sound clarity. Gonna do the back doors and floor next. Wouldn't have even attempted this without channels like this. Thanks, guys!
@A. Melbs Well, I still don't have a sub, so I'm running them full range with a slight EQ down 3db at 60hz on the head unit. Great speakers, great imaging, volume, and clarity, they just can't handle much under 60hz but the DSP on the KEY really brings them to life and creates an impressive sound stage in the cabin.
@@mr.bigs7652 I have a Kicker CXA 360.4 on the mids and midbass. My mostly Kicker system is: Audio Control DM-810 Epicenter Audiofrog GB25s DC Audio M3 Level 2 D2 12” x 2 Kicker Key 200.4 Key 500.1 x 2 46CXA360.4T 47KSC6904 6x9 components 47KSC404 4” coaxials ruclips.net/video/2QO42__7HnU/видео.html
Always appreciate your vids. Fabulous work! As someone into car audio, and building home and portable speakers, it's always amazing to me the compromises we make in car audio to work in the very unfriendly (to audio fidelity) environment of cars. In speaker building we worry about the marginal affect of front baffles in our completely controlled and engineered enclosures. We put a really good speaker into a car door that is not sealed (from air or moisture) and is made out of maybe the worst material you could have. Then we stack a foam ring around the front of the main vocal speaker. Thanks God for DSP! Don't misunderstand me, your methods are obviously industry-leading and as good as I've seen short of super expensive custom installs that your customers are not interested in paying for. It's just such a challenge to make great sound in cars, and maybe that's what makes it so much fun!
I have the kicker key 180.4 and 500.1. What sucks about them is that you cannot time delay the sub or phase it to help bring the bass sound more up front. All it does is takes the input signal and flattens it and mine is already flat from the HU anyway. So basically it didn't do much. Wish I knew that beforehand OR Kicker needs to make a 5 channel key amp so it can do the whole system all at once.
I did this exact same thing in my f150. Even mounted it using the abs plastic panel you made. I'm still loving these little amps and the way they make my focal components sound.
One word for Ford owners: Forscan First thing I deactivated was that horrible start/stop, that is a no-go in FL heat and I haven't noticed any difference in MPG...
@@MrFuchew that’s what I call it 😂😂 The plug & the forscan software is worth every penny. I deactivated the start/stop & numerous chimes. Activated the keypad entry, the factory trailer brakes, extended the time my power outlets stay running & the radio stays on after you turn off the vehicle.
How do I know if my F150 has the load resistors built into the amplifier as stated on minute 13:07? Or do all F150's have it? I've seen multiple videos stating that you need to install load resistors on most F150's, is that true?
Nice setup! I just got done doing a Key 200.4 in my 2021 sienna and love it. I’ll probably do the 500.1 next. Did you post the output curves of the key amp? Really curious.
First video I watched a of you and I'm impressed. Very good video. How much does a set up like that cost? And can you do that to any new f150? I was told you couldn't because of the radio wouldn't allow it
Is there an audible noise floor with this setup over stock? I have a key200.4, with a base F series truck but I am noticing the "system" has a steady state white noise out of all speakers at a very low volume. I measured it at 34db right at the tweeter with sound tools RTA on iphone. Is this normal or is my Key bad? I have speed wire from the deck to the key and speed wire back to the factory wires for mids and new wires for tweeters. Power and ground go to distro and to the battery on the same side of the car. I also noticed gains HAVE to be at dead minimum or the noise floor is unbearable. I am biamping a set of kicker components.
Only thing I’m missing on these and I’ve watched dozens of videos is how are you getting the signal to both amps? In this case are you use the front channels for the 200 and the rears for the 500? What if I want to run fronts and rears off the 200 and then a sub amp are you just splitting the signal wires with a y harness? Won’t that devide the input voltage to two amps? In that case are you forced to use an audio interface of some kind to get a sub channel ? This is the only thing I can find zero info on , really wish the key 200 just had a simple pass through or low level output. Thanks in advance
It will not split the voltage. Sound is Ac current. It is like using an outlet spitter for lights at home, they do not get half of 110v each. Connect your subs to the front door speaker outputs. That is it super simple.
Is the Key 500.1 enough to power two Kicker CompRT shallow mount subs? I'm looking at doing this also in my F150 but have been told that the subs would be too under powered
Had a question. Since my front speakers share the same as the door tweeters. I ran the 200.4 to both front and rear speakers. Does it help out the tweeters when calibrating?
Hey guys can you do a full installation on a 2021 f150 xlt with the 302A package? I would love to see it and I would love to drive from Texas to you guys
I haven't installed a system in nearly 20 years so some of this stuff is new to me. What's the advantage of using the amp for just the front vs all four corners? I have a 19 f150 with the same basic 6 speaker system. I'm planning in running both of these amps with a component set up front/coaxials in the rear. Where should I be pulling the signal from for the sub Amp?
I am Planning on running this pair of amps in my prius. Mostly because of the DSP but the low power draw should work great for keeping my hybrid system healthy! What is everyone's thoughts on a good 6x9 component and 6.5 coax pair? I was thinking about doing Pioneer D series 6x9 components and Pioneer A series 6.5 coax I listen to Metal/Hard rock mostly.
@@ekimandersom4478 the hybrid motor has a generator that charges the 12v battery it is very much connected to it. the prius does not have a normal alternator charged by the gas engine.
My only key product is the 47KEYLOC... everything else is cxa... 2 ...720w cxa360.4 ... 1 for mids coaxials.. 1 for tweeters... 1 cxa800.1 for sub... 12trtpt... downfiring.. there is so much more stuff i have... stinger products... i have an elaborate amp rack design that is unorthodox... deli counter... all amps sitting up for display... i just need guidance
When you described Amp placement , It seems like running them both horizontally would’ve made the most sense you said power needed to come out to the right, and speakers to the left. Wouldn’t that still have left you access to the gains? Gosh you guys do amazing work
Slightly better access to setting from the top, and my opinion, looking at the heating, bow the grooves are aligned, being vertical will help with natural air flow and cooling.
your alternator probably isn't big enough to handle the current draw when music is bumping. google "the big 3" for car audio, in short, bigger amperage alternator, wiring, extra battery etc. can all help
The purpose of a capacitor is the filter out lower frequency. The crossover in the amp does the same thing, but even better. So the capacitor isn't required.
Didnt have to with that key 200.4 amp, when u run just a front stage on it. It has a crossover setting for the tweeters. On the midbass u set the crossover for it on the end of the amp. U flick the switches on it for watever setting u want for it. Like 60hz, 80hz, 100hz, or off i believe for the hpf
Agreed always should use a cap to protect against overload or other issues people mentioning the crossover are not thinking insurance policy with expensive gear.
If its just 10amps, you can use the bracket mounting bolt you see in the vid, otherwise its best to run it all the way back to the battery. The reason being is they construction of the truck is mostly 'glued' together aluminum so Ford had to add grounding wires through out the truck. The one(s) for that panel (seen if you remove the carpet) is only rated for 10amps or so.
Watched You guys for years but I didn't know if you had an online store with pricing. You have a lot of great looking products but traveling all the way over there or disturbing you just to Window Shop . both of those options suck LOL
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Loving the full installation videos
The acrylic tweeter adapters you made were absolutely fantastic!! Morel has always been a favorite of mine for years. I own an F150, and you guys have given me some great ideas!! Fantastic install!!
Got the KEY 200.4 running 2 sets of Kicker KSS6504s in my '01 Highlander...great little amp and HUGE upgrade over my 20 year old factory Pioneers. Mic calibration works pretty well. Sound treated both front doors, already notice a definite difference in road noise, overall ride smoothness, and sound clarity. Gonna do the back doors and floor next. Wouldn't have even attempted this without channels like this. Thanks, guys!
@A. Melbs Well, I still don't have a sub, so I'm running them full range with a slight EQ down 3db at 60hz on the head unit. Great speakers, great imaging, volume, and clarity, they just can't handle much under 60hz but the DSP on the KEY really brings them to life and creates an impressive sound stage in the cabin.
Thanks Dean and Fernando. Anothr amazing install and video!
Of all the praise I've heard about this amp so far, I'm mega excited to work towards getting one! 😃
Fantastic install and video! Great job gents.
I love my Kicker Keys. I have 2 of the 500.1s pushing a Level 2 DC Audio 12” for each amp. My 200.4 runs my tweets and rear fill.
Do u have any amp running ur front midbass at all? What is it btw
@@mr.bigs7652 I have a Kicker CXA 360.4 on the mids and midbass.
My mostly Kicker system is:
Audio Control
DM-810
Epicenter
Audiofrog
GB25s
DC Audio
M3 Level 2 D2 12” x 2
Kicker
Key 200.4
Key 500.1 x 2
46CXA360.4T
47KSC6904 6x9 components
47KSC404 4” coaxials
ruclips.net/video/2QO42__7HnU/видео.html
@@BS-Reviewz Awesome man. That system sounds great man and I bet it sounds great as well. Lol
Always appreciate your vids. Fabulous work! As someone into car audio, and building home and portable speakers, it's always amazing to me the compromises we make in car audio to work in the very unfriendly (to audio fidelity) environment of cars. In speaker building we worry about the marginal affect of front baffles in our completely controlled and engineered enclosures. We put a really good speaker into a car door that is not sealed (from air or moisture) and is made out of maybe the worst material you could have. Then we stack a foam ring around the front of the main vocal speaker. Thanks God for DSP! Don't misunderstand me, your methods are obviously industry-leading and as good as I've seen short of super expensive custom installs that your customers are not interested in paying for. It's just such a challenge to make great sound in cars, and maybe that's what makes it so much fun!
I have the kicker key 180.4 and 500.1. What sucks about them is that you cannot time delay the sub or phase it to help bring the bass sound more up front. All it does is takes the input signal and flattens it and mine is already flat from the HU anyway. So basically it didn't do much. Wish I knew that beforehand OR Kicker needs to make a 5 channel key amp so it can do the whole system all at once.
I did this exact same thing in my f150. Even mounted it using the abs plastic panel you made. I'm still loving these little amps and the way they make my focal components sound.
What sub did you use?
You guys should sell these kits there are ton of F-150 owners who want just a little more. It is the best selling vehicle in America. 🤷🏾♂️
You guys rock great job 👏 Dean and Fernando
Great install! Where did you get the sub inputs from...low or hi-level? Did you tap into the front channels or activate the sub output in forscan?
Did I miss what you ran the RCA's for the sub amp into?
pretty awesome little amps ......nice work guys
The KEY 4-chan was designed to be an Alpine 445U killer. I'd say they succeeded!!!!
Can you make this setup with with the NAVTv adapter. I try to stay sway from the manual tunning and this works great.
One word for Ford owners: Forscan
First thing I deactivated was that horrible start/stop, that is a no-go in FL heat and I haven't noticed any difference in MPG...
foreskin?
@@MrFuchew that’s what I call it 😂😂
The plug & the forscan software is worth every penny. I deactivated the start/stop & numerous chimes. Activated the keypad entry, the factory trailer brakes, extended the time my power outlets stay running & the radio stays on after you turn off the vehicle.
I don't know but almost all the newer ones give you the option to turn it off on your own with out software
@@scotthall1381 yeah it has the button you gotta hit every time you start it
I need your guy's expertise and a similar job in my car!
How do I know if my F150 has the load resistors built into the amplifier as stated on minute 13:07? Or do all F150's have it? I've seen multiple videos stating that you need to install load resistors on most F150's, is that true?
wish you guys were here in Cali .. I so want you to do my install.
I will be making an appointment with you for the exact same setup f150 Lariat 2020,
Nice setup! I just got done doing a Key 200.4 in my 2021 sienna and love it. I’ll probably do the 500.1 next. Did you post the output curves of the key amp? Really curious.
Big fan of your videos do you have 5 star stickers for sale..
@8:36 The 400.2 amplifier!?
Do you guys ever do anything in Forscan? some people say you can flatten the EQ using forscan
Amazing videos. Do you know anyone in the Dallas area that does your quality of work,
First video I watched a of you and I'm impressed. Very good video. How much does a set up like that cost? And can you do that to any new f150? I was told you couldn't because of the radio wouldn't allow it
Where did u get input from for 500.1?
Is there an audible noise floor with this setup over stock?
I have a key200.4, with a base F series truck but I am noticing the "system" has a steady state white noise out of all speakers at a very low volume. I measured it at 34db right at the tweeter with sound tools RTA on iphone.
Is this normal or is my Key bad?
I have speed wire from the deck to the key and speed wire back to the factory wires for mids and new wires for tweeters. Power and ground go to distro and to the battery on the same side of the car.
I also noticed gains HAVE to be at dead minimum or the noise floor is unbearable.
I am biamping a set of kicker components.
Suggestions for a single 10" under the passenger rear seat F150 Crew Cab?
can you please link the video where you are using the amp as a line drive for a more powerful amp?
Only thing I’m missing on these and I’ve watched dozens of videos is how are you getting the signal to both amps? In this case are you use the front channels for the 200 and the rears for the 500? What if I want to run fronts and rears off the 200 and then a sub amp are you just splitting the signal wires with a y harness? Won’t that devide the input voltage to two amps? In that case are you forced to use an audio interface of some kind to get a sub channel ? This is the only thing I can find zero info on , really wish the key 200 just had a simple pass through or low level output. Thanks in advance
It will not split the voltage. Sound is Ac current. It is like using an outlet spitter for lights at home, they do not get half of 110v each. Connect your subs to the front door speaker outputs. That is it super simple.
Why don't you laser cut your amp plate like you do for the speaker rings? Could save you some time when you're doing these popular car models.
SO do you have to have AudioControl AC-LGD Load Generating Accessory when installing this Amp in a 19 F150 without a factory amp?
Would I need this for an 2011 Audi A5? I have a Apple CarPlay box connected to the factory radio. Just want to upgrade the speakers and sound.
What signal are you using for the input to the 500.1? Is it coming from the front two channels and split on the speed wire to go to both amps?
Also curious of the answer to this
Thinking I could do this myself
Sees tweeter portion of the video……
Is the Key 500.1 enough to power two Kicker CompRT shallow mount subs? I'm looking at doing this also in my F150 but have been told that the subs would be too under powered
Is there only the one screw holding the amp rack to the back wall?
Had a question. Since my front speakers share the same as the door tweeters. I ran the 200.4 to both front and rear speakers. Does it help out the tweeters when calibrating?
HiFi Vega did an install like this! You2ube it!
Hey D and F, how did you mount the bass knob? Did you take it apart or make a hole big enough for the knob only and leave it in its housing
Hey guys can you do a full installation on a 2021 f150 xlt with the 302A package? I would love to see it and I would love to drive from Texas to you guys
@Natural Creature WOOD is far superior.
I haven't installed a system in nearly 20 years so some of this stuff is new to me. What's the advantage of using the amp for just the front vs all four corners? I have a 19 f150 with the same basic 6 speaker system. I'm planning in running both of these amps with a component set up front/coaxials in the rear. Where should I be pulling the signal from for the sub Amp?
Did you ever determine where to pull the sub inputs from?
Are both of those Kickers getting signal from the same wires from the radio?
Yes the front outputs have the signal we need for both amps
What volume number did you have the f150 set at as you calibrated ?
If you guys were close to the St Louis Metropolitan area, I'd ask for an estimate for complete installation.
How much it cost a set up like this in a F150 lariat 2020
What do you use to make your amp rack
Would this amp work good with 2 way speakers?
I am Planning on running this pair of amps in my prius. Mostly because of the DSP but the low power draw should work great for keeping my hybrid system healthy! What is everyone's thoughts on a good 6x9 component and 6.5 coax pair? I was thinking about doing Pioneer D series 6x9 components and Pioneer A series 6.5 coax I listen to Metal/Hard rock mostly.
Kicker CS is pretty good too
Your hybrid has a normal start battery, it will never effect your hybrid system because it is not even connected to it.
@@ekimandersom4478 the hybrid motor has a generator that charges the 12v battery it is very much connected to it. the prius does not have a normal alternator charged by the gas engine.
@@BassRacerx Really? I did not know that.
My only key product is the 47KEYLOC... everything else is cxa... 2 ...720w cxa360.4 ... 1 for mids coaxials.. 1 for tweeters... 1 cxa800.1 for sub... 12trtpt... downfiring.. there is so much more stuff i have... stinger products... i have an elaborate amp rack design that is unorthodox... deli counter... all amps sitting up for display... i just need guidance
I have the keys in my Cadillac my installer asked if he could keep my car 3 days to play with it lol
How much did that set up cost??
When you described Amp placement , It seems like running them both horizontally would’ve made the most sense you said power needed to come out to the right, and speakers to the left.
Wouldn’t that still have left you access to the gains? Gosh you guys do amazing work
Slightly better access to setting from the top, and my opinion, looking at the heating, bow the grooves are aligned, being vertical will help with natural air flow and cooling.
Hi dean and Fernando what causes the amp and the vehicle to dim during the play of music
your alternator probably isn't big enough to handle the current draw when music is bumping. google "the big 3" for car audio, in short, bigger amperage alternator, wiring, extra battery etc. can all help
Where are the basses? :)
why so many cuts mid-sentence??
are u the best car-stereo builder ?
why you don't use any capacitor on tweeters when plugging them directly into amplifier
The purpose of a capacitor is the filter out lower frequency. The crossover in the amp does the same thing, but even better. So the capacitor isn't required.
Didnt have to with that key 200.4 amp, when u run just a front stage on it. It has a crossover setting for the tweeters. On the midbass u set the crossover for it on the end of the amp. U flick the switches on it for watever setting u want for it. Like 60hz, 80hz, 100hz, or off i believe for the hpf
Agreed always should use a cap to protect against overload or other issues people mentioning the crossover are not thinking insurance policy with expensive gear.
The kicker key is great if you want an amp with a DSP on a budget but, I hate class D for anything other than the subwoofer in my car.
@@davidperry4013 Your ears would never hear the difference
Where’s the ground point for the amps?
If its just 10amps, you can use the bracket mounting bolt you see in the vid, otherwise its best to run it all the way back to the battery. The reason being is they construction of the truck is mostly 'glued' together aluminum so Ford had to add grounding wires through out the truck. The one(s) for that panel (seen if you remove the carpet) is only rated for 10amps or so.
Could Someone use 2 KEY200.4 along with 1 KEY500?
Dyno those amps!!!
where are this guys located?
Ever heard of google?
In a hatchback.... 2018 tiguan...
You guy's should bring your own vehicles into the garage and give your viewers a demo!!
those amp so small it looks like a toy. cool features coming in small packages. Those hands are hardworking american, cuts and bruises all over.
So what skin do they recommend, ooh... I know sounskin
Watched You guys for years but I didn't know if you had an online store with pricing. You have a lot of great looking products but traveling all the way over there or disturbing you just to Window Shop . both of those options suck LOL
😍👍❗
👍👍😎✌️
I just turn mine off with Forscan
1 street
3
2nd .
4th