@BenGravvy this is by far, well in my opinion, your best video/vLog ever!! Love your passion and stoke, but this one really broke it down for folks to learn from and equip themselves correctly. I loved it!!! YEEEWWW!!! 🤙🏄♂🌊
Stoked on this Ben, one of my favorite videos you've created. Learned so much from these guys because of your great questions. Would love to see more of these surf education videos as there not a lot of good stuff out there for that! Good luck with the recovery hope to see you back in the water soon 🤙
The thing about surfing that’s beautiful is that everyone is different. I don’t think a tube shooter is for me, or what you guys are calling a groveler. I’m aging, life gets hectic, whatever the reason I’m not in the water as much as I wanna be. Long story short is I love float (volume) so a perfect 3 board quiver for me is a fish a retro single fin and a longboard. Nice work Ben. I know not being in the water must be frustrating for you but you’re keeping your stoke up and the stoke of all of us as well!! Cheers
Being a 6'3 200 lbs weekend warrior I find very exciting that nowadays mid lengths have come such a long way in terms of performance versus 15 years ago. I got on a two Lost boards (Crowd Killer and Glydra) and i couldn't believe how well they performed for their sizes (I rode 6'8 and 7'2 sizes) compared to a 6'8 Bruce Hansel I bought in 2012. Mid lengths now are really giving bigger guys the opportunity to do more stuff on waves. I also rode a 6'4 quiver killer in bigger waves and was amazed at how well it kept me afloat.
I was about to buy another board that i don't need and this video made me understand that i have to do the opposite and get rid o a couple of boards and just keep 2 or 3 that i already have and are exactly what the experts on the video recommend. I just need to learn to surf better with those board that i already have and stop thinking other board is going to change the way i surf. Excellent video, really helpful
Great vid Ben, I've been surfing and choosing boards for 50 years and own 30+ boards. The ingredients are outline, rails, thickness bottom and nose then tail, bottom rocker, foam type and glassing techniques. Tail designs are mostly a method to achieve a different outline and rail line. The recipe is how each works with each other which is alchemy. Most of the world's best shapers have no idea how their design mix works, but after 1000's of boards they've narrowed it down in a general sense, pro surfers have taken years and years and hundreds of boards to figure it out and it's a endless journey. Hydrodynamics and hull design concepts are impossibly complex as the ocean constantly changes, boards slow and speed up so science is only marginally useful and they play it by feel. Do demos as much as possible. When you buy a board off the racks you are getting 80% there which is usually enough and you get a sense of what you like and how a board feels under your arm over time. Some of my best boards came off the rack (I loathe to admit that) but back in the day all boards were custom even the ones on the rack. Key point: If you don't catch waves you are getting nowhere, it's the holy Grail. Proper eggs (not mid lengths those are late 60's transition single fin hulls aka longboard then mid length, so don't propagate that term) are a gift to surfing and everyone should own one, just look at Devon Howard. Peace.
I’m 68 and I like 40 plus on my short board . I weigh 187 but I’m not a great paddler due to spine inflexibility. I am intermediate and workout all the time. So many variables to consider.
I’m from Michigan so my go to board is a secret weapon from Infinity, it’s a chunkier board and it’s an 8’0 mid length. I can still do snaps, cut backs and big bottom turns. On Memorial Day I got a couple rides that were the best turns I’ve ever done.
Guys, I recently bought the best board (Machado Two fish)for me ever and it has made me much, much, better over night. My dad always surfed so I grew up doing it but focused more of my time playing baseball/football as I was really good at those sports. Moved away from coast at 26 and stopped surfing for about 10 yrs. When I moved back I got super hooked back in, but was about 50 lbs heavier than when I stoped. The extra weight made me feel like learning all over again. My mind wanted to do things that my body couldnt and I was having hard time figuring out the kind of surfer I needed to be. The boards were a lot of it. After loosing about 25 lbs I was a sturdy 193 lbs. I had been riding the Super Brand Fling in 5'11 and was fairly happy but inconsistent in my surfing. Great board but my next buy blew me away. 2 months ago I picked up a Machado Seaside (Two Fish) which is a twin fin. Had never ridden one before but a local ripper had been coaxing me to give one a try. I was blown away on my first wave! Had never experienced such drive while turning up face of the wave. Felt like I was actually accelerating. The other thing that has been a game changer is my new ability to blow past white water sections . Where I used to get hung up in the foam, I now race past to cleaner areas of the wave with little effort. The other aspect I like is the buttery smooth looseness of the board. Im not an overly snappy surfer, but have good balance, so this aspect of the board takes away my weekness of getting too stationary. Instead of being fast and strait, Im now fast and rather carvy. The cool thing is how many compliments I am now getting on my surfing. Feels good to come home to the wife feeling like Kelly Slater. Not really, but feels like it. I live in south tx, yes we have surf; and typically have knee to chest wind swells. However, we have had an amazing spring with plenty of over head surf and the board has held up well in that too. Take in mind Im talking about 7 ft and 7 sec type swells, so can be very bumpy. The keel fins really help wjth that. If you are a bigger, experienced surfer you really will love this board. Give it a try!
😂😂That ending was classic!! Really informative stuff. I grew up in the late eighties and little blades were everyone HAD to have. I had more energy back then but as I got older I realized how much energy I was wasting paddling to catch a wave. I started getting thicker and thicker boards and love how much easier it is to catch waves so you can use more energy surfing than paddling!!
I started surfing at age 14 (22 now) but could only surf a few times a year on east coast waves when my fam went on vacations. Usually would be late spring/summer so I never got to see super gnarly conditions, although I have stood up on chest & shoulder high waves. Mostly learned on typical east coast wind mush in South Carolina and Northeast Florida. Now I only live 3 hours from the coast in NC and surf more regularly. As anyone else I mainly learned on longboards and longer mid-lengths (think 7.5ft all the way to 9ft). Just got back from a trip where I finally was able to surf a Torq 6'10' board, volume of 46 I believe, width of 21 and 3/4, Fish style tail. It was a rental like all the other boards I've surfed, but after feeling how easy I was able to stand up on it and even start learning basic turns, I think it will be the first board I actually purchase for myself. I have tried to surf some shorter mid-lengths like that in the past, but never had success probably because of their volume. This one that I just surfed, however, was literally the perfect in-between of a short board and a mid-length. Paddling it felt like what I would imagine paddling a shortboard would feel like. Standing up on it was obviously harder than what I'm normally comfortable with (about 7'5") but it was just easy enough for me to pick up within a few tries but a good enough challenge because I couldn't stand up on it right away like the 7'5". Also for reference I am 155 pounds at 5'10" height. Hopefully this can help someone out who's more on the beginner/intermediate side looking for a perfect in-between of a shortboard and midlength with enough volume. I was so happy to finally find a board that's short enough to be a challenge but easy enough to stand up on and have fun. The waves were probably around 2-4ft and clean.
This was classic ... watched it twice... so many opinions and to many options,, im a Ozzie from Margaret River originally.. but live in Indonesia.. I get by with a 2 board quiver these days. A BSB 6'6 abra kadabra short board rounded pin for the big days,, and a BSB short long 610' mid length for the beach breaks out front when I can't be bothered doing a boat trip.. watching your vids Ben convinced me to try a midlength,, best thing I've done for my surfing personally..
Super helpful video! I feel like every surfer has made mistakes when it comes to buying surfboards and developing a quiver. I know I personally started surfing a lot better and progressing more quickly once I finally bought a Fish. I spent 2 years coming in from surfing a performance groveler and saying "That would have been fun if I had a fish." I feel like 4 boards is my minimum quiver. A longboard for the truly gutless, a fish, a hybrid / versatile 5 fin shortboard to fill in the gaps between small and pumping, and step up / tube shooter for the day of days. (please no one tell my girlfriend that I only need 4 boards! Buying surfboards make me happy!)
I’m 44 and riding the lost hydra 5’5 33L I’m 5’7 170 surfing in south Florida really good board for head hi wind chop slop, and really good when it’s clean conditions like surfing in Satellite beach , 🤙
ben you are not a kook never ever say that the world loves you and me too boards now are too complicated for me to fathom/comprehend oh brother but now in this day and age us surfers have everything at our disposal and lots of it also well dont mind me im just a nut and its a thrill just stay stoked
Amen to getting back to having fun and unwinding in the waves! I have a 3 soft board quiver and I can’t ride any of them! But I had a lot of fun trying!
Im 210lbs and 6’1, i have been surfing since i was 5 (i just turned 30) and after getting more time to surf with a job change about two years ago i started back with a 6’6 pod mod at 47L. I would highly recommend it as someone’s first shortboard outline cause it paddles like a mid length. If you are a smaller guy i would recommend the pod mod still but in a smaller size like 6’2 and below. Its a great board and the epoxy is damn near indestructible and its also an affordable mass produced board. From there i would venture into the high performance wides. I rode my buddy’s 5’10 35L and still caught waves but felt so much more nimble like my old high performance boards. I think right now after losing weight im going to get the Lost uber driver xl. Im always going to be a bigger guy with a wider stance so gone are the sub 30 liter days for me. I agree with Pyzel you should work your way down in boards in small steps until you outgrow them performance wise.
as an old ex shaper, what a great video. man it brings back memories. a long time ago I was a kneeboarder , fish guy. I couldn't sell a fish to a stand up guy . they hated them. how times change
Yeah, great info, my "fish" is a early 80's "performance wide" thruster w removable third , it's THICK rails show why the float is all in the middle now, but it's always FUN!!
Awesome video! Was always wanting a video done about boards. Thx. I'm 55 and back surfing again! Longboards rule for surfing summer Jersey waves. Like they said, it's all about the FUN and catching those waves! My dad would say, "Just think, with every wave you catch, it's practice to make yourself a better surfer!" I still suck but I love all the "practice" I get surfing all summer long!
It depends on the WAVE. If its a roller, then youre gonna need volume since thats a slower thick wave. If its a drainer, ya need rocker and narrow tail to keep you in the pocket. If youre advanced and can max out the wave, then get a high performance short board, just enough volume that lets you get in THAT wave. If youre just out there for fun, get a 7’ or bigger and enjoy the ride. If youre starting out, get 9’ softy. If youre good and have plenty of control, get a fish. Avoid the keel fish because the fins are glassed in and changing them would wreck youre board and you might as well get a regular fish that you can swap the fins. Surfings about connecting with the ocean, if you forgot that, youre blowing it and should not even think about the board, you need to realign yourself with the gift a wave gives you…peace.
i’m a heavy advocate for the mid lengths!! you can ride them in pretty much almost any condition small and overhead. i’m also a little bit taller so smaller boards are harder to ride unless they have a lot of volume
So what I'm hearing is go buy 3 more boards to have fun with.... done. I'm in Nova Scotia, been surfing for 6yrs and have a Parallax, Outlier, Sunday, and a swallow smaller mid. Always having fun. Thanks for the great video!
Love your channel Ben. Some interesting topics. I have been shaping boards for over 36 years in South Africa , Uk , Ireland and Portugal ( busch surfboards is our brand ). I dont want to make out like I know it all and this is only my take on things based on my experience.The main thing I find is that volume is important ,but not the only thing to consider when it comes to surfing. The actual area of a board can sometimes be just as important like an aeroplane wing is either big or small generating lift. For instance, you can ride a very thin Board with a broader outline ( more area) and if you are a good paddler ,it will plane and you will catch waves just as well as a more buoyant board. Conversely you might have a thick board but not so wide ( like a aeroplane wing that is small but very thick) and it becomes a dog to get the board to plane . There are so many variables. Wider tails catch waves quicker than more narrower ones, but narrower tails go vertical in the pocket better. Fuller rails will help you build speed in smaller waves but will bog out on you in bigger waves depending on the actual apex of the curve in your rail and if the rail has sharp edges or are more rolled. Meduim to thinner rails stick better in the wave face of bigger waves and help to control the speed but struggle to build speed in small waves. We have not even talked about rocker , foil, bottom configurations or fin set-ups . Then there is the other aspects of poly or eps constructions. Flex in the board etc. So many variables. I love more volume in a board but obviously we need to look at all aspects of surfing like speed , flow, control etc. Keep up the good work Ben. Love your content .
I have a 5'8 Lost RNF, a 7'2 fun shape, and a 6'8 pin tail thruster. When I was into bigger waves I had a 7'6 pin tail mini gun. I've had some iteration of that quiver since the early 90s. It works. The first dude had it down.
I have been surfing my whole life, (also representing the SHBP profile pic, east coast represent) and this video has blown my mind. So many things I didn’t consider.
the pyzalian 2 has given me an incredible range from 2-7ft. I picked one up for almost nothing since it was previously snapped and repaired, it was also 2litres more then my normal boards but man that board is amazing. It ended up snapping on a reef break pumping 6-8ft barrels, that day was all about slowing down the board because it had too much speed.
I started surfing 2 years ago, and after a few long board sessions bought a 6'2 mactavish micro 2nd hand tuflite and really struggled with stability as its a bit thin for a beginner and i think it needs a bit of push in the waves to get going and lock in. but i dont know. I then bought a 7'4 machardo seaside and beyond (because i was 42, it was on market place and i had the money). This board changed everything. i can pop up and ride any little wave on it. when i say ride i mean stand up and not fall off, maybe a bit of turning if im lucky. And when you are out back people see the pointy end and think you know what you are doing. Its a mid length, 50 litres, pointy tail that really locks in like that dude said. but Im basically a child coasting along in 1st gear in a porsche tucan. I know that and it hurts. I live on the south coast of England. My local break is 45 minutes away and barrels never occur. if it gets bigger than 4-6ft the waves get wierd, not in a good, predictable, peaky way. I believe that my experience tipifies the experience of most people who decide they want to learn to surf in adulthood. All the gear, no idea, crap conditions, very little time to actually practice. But also, Im now 43, i dont give a f what people think, Im just there for the claim baby :)
I bought my first surfboard 10 years ago from a dude off craigslist in a Marlton parking lot. Turns out it was a Wynn custom 8'-0". That board has moved with me from Jersey, to New England, to Southern California and it has been my favorite all-around board.
So i live in Tennessee ive always wanted to surf i woke up randomly one morning and ordered a wave master foam to learn on ive never been more excited in my life i got 4 beach trips planned for next summer and im gonna go to Charleston and surf city once a month to practice preciate the videos they helped me for when i wanna switch to a real board
Love this video. Love every surfers perspective, especially coming from jersey surfers. Been experimenting alot with different boards laitly but ingot a high performance wide board. And I'm absolutely hooked on it.
A nice fun video for this important issue. Growing up poor it was just assumed one 80s performance board was the deal. No telling how much that set me back. Remember my second board was a 7ish "fun shape" and how much that accelerated the learning process. I kind of stayed in that range with the mindset that you just surfed one board. As I started by second life of surfing later in life a few years ago and losing weight down to my ideal size a quiver is so important if you want to surf everyday. Think a longboard has to be thrown in there. My first was 2 years ago and it has unlocked so many days.
As surfers we tend to overthink everything - our skill, the conditions, our equipment, etc. My recommendation for anyone progressing and trying to dial in their surfboards is to do just that, surf surf surf, and dial it in. Start more forgiving in terms of shape and volume, and spend the hours on the board. Once you ‘feel’ like the board, not your skill, is holding you back, you make the next step and chisel away at the board; pull in the nose and tail, sharpen the rails, add some rocker, try some different fin setups. It really can be as simple as surf as much as possible and try as many different boards as possible. Only once you’ve surfed a range of boards at a range of dimensions will you understand how to communicate with a shaper the type of surfer you are and what will work best for you. Yaahhhooooo
Finally, a good video about sizes! I wish you talked a little bit about choosing the right shortboard based on one's height, weight (maybe even gender?), but very useful either way!
Good general info and I agree everyone thinks they surf better than they do! My quiver is big… over 30 boards I rode em all, my smallest is 31L and my biggest is 40L they all have their place but for me it’s based on how good (glassy clean and lined up) the waves are for which hoard I ride. Living in Hawaii I get a lot of powerful waves open ocean swells, and also close to shore reef breaks that are small and hollow at times and mushy other times. It’s about how u surf really there is no formula besides basics mentioned: if I can paddle it and stand up and ride it then it works ;)
I ended up with Sharpeye Inferno72 5’10 wide 32L. I would call myself lower level intermediate. The calculator says 30L at 185 lbs if I’m advanced so this is a nice board for a wide range of conditions. Board works great so far. Cheers from SD.
I'm a heavy short guy and my go to board these days is 6'.0" squash tail with lots of volume but surprisingly narrow for todays standard... like 21 inches...I basically like old school 90's short boards but with the volume super extra beefed up to accommodate my weight and old age.
very good video! i ride a firewire dominator 2 as my (wide) performance shortboard and a puddle jumper as groveler for weaker, fatter waves. that serves me pretty well ad an intermediate/advanced guy
Yes,yes,yes!!!! Give us more of this kinda content from time to time. Loved this! Most valuable thing taken from this was im so glad that even a god like yourself was confused by this subject 🤪🙌🤙🍍🍍🍍🍍
I snapped my short board that’s 31 lts and I’ve just been using my hybrid wide short board with 40 lts, I’ve been using it all conditions and love the paddle power it gives me I can nearly do as good maneuvers on it but it does hold me back a little when it’s big. But now I don’t know how many lts I should get for a chest to head high board as I like 40 lts now. I’ve been converted to higher volume boards as they are more fun and I can still turn it pretty good.
When I surfed, I usually only had one board at a time. I was surfing through the transition from long to short boards. My favorite boards for all around were Bonzers. I would carry several center fins, each one of which would change how my board would ride in different conditions. :-)
Not a charger. Just out here having adult grom stoke. I know my abilities and I’m fine cruising on my costco special and my pintail mid length for bigger days. Hawaiian waters don’t need another kook on a shortboard 😂 I love having volume. More volume = easy for me to control and paddle.
I have a 6’0 Slater Sci Fi 2.0 with the bat wing tail and its 31.5 Liters and is the perfect one board quiver! It’s a little big on the small days and a little small on the big days but has the volume to float me! Plus it’s a 5 fin set up so thruster on small days and quad on big heavy barreling days! It works! Im in Ocean City MD by the way! So same waves as Jersey maybe worse 😂😂
Thank you so much for the video! Could you discuss further what an ideal quiver looks like for someone that rides mostly midlengths and longboards in the follow up video?
I have wanted to start surfing for a really long time since I was a little kid but I have never found a place to learn and I have never had enough money to buy a board. I still don’t got enough money but when I do I’m getting that short board.
Great video Ben! I'm a bit older now, 64, and my mid-length egg is idea! It catches any wave, good maneuverability and lots of fun! I don't have the paddling power as I once had, when I rode HP boards.
Loved this! Thank you for helping us, Ben. NEED ADVICE with choosing my first STEP UP. @Anyone reading, I'd appreciate any tips, and thank you in advance! I'm a good intermediate, 33yrs, athletic/fit, 5'9" 163 lbs, have a 6'0" Rocket Redux 37L that I'm learning to "shortboard" on and enjoy the extra volume in NJ. Learning cut backs but can carve and pump fairly well...beginning to ride deep in the pocket just ahead of the barrel. I feel a bit outgunned when it gets head high+ **Q: Should I get a step up with more length & less volume than my high perf wide? I'm considering a shorter mid length like the Crowd Killer too. I want to error on the side of catching more waves. Thoughts? Thank you Nub Nation
Love the video. What does "out front" mean though? Would also love a video if you could talk about conditions and finding the right spot. Like you've talked about how jersey doesn't do great with super long period swell because it's just longs walls. Like how do certain types of beaches, points, bathymetry hold certain swells? I'm sure I could find vids but would rather get your semi-pro explanation
Thanks Ben - another great video. I think surfboards should be measured in fun not litres. Surprised no one mentioned the mini mal / fun board. Surely a good choice for a one board quiver for an intermediate surfer.
U need 3 minimum with a fin set up . First a graveler for the small mess and two step ups that are actually typical shortboards round squash nice full rails for waves that are slopy and a chippy round pin for the beyond vert drain fests. Then ur riding similar rail lines in all surf conditions and can switch ur fins around based on the limits of each board in its ideal conditions like overlap
Wonderful helpful vid......Mike Hynson had an article in Surfer in 1974 talkin bout get that foam up front..where you paddle....what surfboard company makes boards with da tick up front? Thx Grav!
i've been riding a HP wide for the last 10 years. i dont have waves bigger than 4 foot and it never barrels where I live so a single board quiver like that works well for me
I am trying my softtop 44litre as groveller tommorrow >>> I was using the mini mal softtop 54litre with good success catching small and medium waves but not interacting with the wave with turns just fading in and out of the pocket. I thought I needed volume or float in small stuff so I am surprised to hear that smaller boards are better in these conditions.
Sic break down bro. I have been surfing since gromhood I am now going backwards in my surfing with age but still want to hang onto surfing as best as possible I am all for the fun side. So many guys tell me you can't surf a fish all the time and I say yeah well watch me hahaha
I've lived in Jersey for 5 years, and I come from a country with a tropical climate, warm water all year round. my first Winter season here was a disaster, wrong board, wrong Wetsuit, wrong fins size , etc etc... in other words, I had to relearn how to surf again , because using 5mm is not at all normal for someone who has lived their whole life surfing in boardshorts. If you had made this video about 5 years ago, I wouldn't have struggled so much to adapt. 😂
Hey Ben! You forgot about the logs hahaha especially here on the east coast! Come down to Stuart next time you’re in Florida. Come see us at Ohana Surf Shop, love the content and keeping the dream alive 🤙🏾🤙🏾
I have a question,I’m pretty new to surfing and I recently bought a second hand board, it’s a 6’11 x 20 inches with a pretty thin pointed nose and a fish tail, is this considered a midlength or a gun board and will it work in smaller waves??
Hope everyone enjoys today’s video! If you want to see more surfboard deep dives let us know below! FOR THE DREAM
Awesome job
@BenGravvy this is by far, well in my opinion, your best video/vLog ever!! Love your passion and stoke, but this one really broke it down for folks to learn from and equip themselves correctly. I loved it!!! YEEEWWW!!! 🤙🏄♂🌊
Hell yeah!!!! Tips on water craft, ticks on how to build skills and confidence... We want you knowledge 😁🙌🍍
Awsome ⚡️ every beginner Surfer should watch this ✌️❤️🙏
🙏🤙
"It depends" - Every shaper's favorite answer
Stoked on this Ben, one of my favorite videos you've created. Learned so much from these guys because of your great questions. Would love to see more of these surf education videos as there not a lot of good stuff out there for that! Good luck with the recovery hope to see you back in the water soon 🤙
The thing about surfing that’s beautiful is that everyone is different. I don’t think a tube shooter is for me, or what you guys are calling a groveler. I’m aging, life gets hectic, whatever the reason I’m not in the water as much as I wanna be. Long story short is I love float (volume) so a perfect 3 board quiver for me is a fish a retro single fin and a longboard. Nice work Ben. I know not being in the water must be frustrating for you but you’re keeping your stoke up and the stoke of all of us as well!! Cheers
Thanks so much!
Great info Ben
@@BenGravyy thank you 🤙
Being a 6'3 200 lbs weekend warrior I find very exciting that nowadays mid lengths have come such a long way in terms of performance versus 15 years ago. I got on a two Lost boards (Crowd Killer and Glydra) and i couldn't believe how well they performed for their sizes (I rode 6'8 and 7'2 sizes) compared to a 6'8 Bruce Hansel I bought in 2012. Mid lengths now are really giving bigger guys the opportunity to do more stuff on waves. I also rode a 6'4 quiver killer in bigger waves and was amazed at how well it kept me afloat.
I was about to buy another board that i don't need and this video made me understand that i have to do the opposite and get rid o a couple of boards and just keep 2 or 3 that i already have and are exactly what the experts on the video recommend. I just need to learn to surf better with those board that i already have and stop thinking other board is going to change the way i surf. Excellent video, really helpful
Happy to hear it !
As a Jersey surfer in the purgatory space between beginner and intermediate this video was awesome to watch
I feel that
Great vid Ben, I've been surfing and choosing boards for 50 years and own 30+ boards. The ingredients are outline, rails, thickness bottom and nose then tail, bottom rocker, foam type and glassing techniques. Tail designs are mostly a method to achieve a different outline and rail line. The recipe is how each works with each other which is alchemy. Most of the world's best shapers have no idea how their design mix works, but after 1000's of boards they've narrowed it down in a general sense, pro surfers have taken years and years and hundreds of boards to figure it out and it's a endless journey. Hydrodynamics and hull design concepts are impossibly complex as the ocean constantly changes, boards slow and speed up so science is only marginally useful and they play it by feel. Do demos as much as possible. When you buy a board off the racks you are getting 80% there which is usually enough and you get a sense of what you like and how a board feels under your arm over time. Some of my best boards came off the rack (I loathe to admit that) but back in the day all boards were custom even the ones on the rack. Key point: If you don't catch waves you are getting nowhere, it's the holy Grail. Proper eggs (not mid lengths those are late 60's transition single fin hulls aka longboard then mid length, so don't propagate that term) are a gift to surfing and everyone should own one, just look at Devon Howard. Peace.
I’m 68 and I like 40 plus on my short board . I weigh 187 but I’m not a great paddler due to spine inflexibility. I am intermediate and workout all the time. So many variables to consider.
I’m from Michigan so my go to board is a secret weapon from Infinity, it’s a chunkier board and it’s an 8’0 mid length. I can still do snaps, cut backs and big bottom turns. On Memorial Day I got a couple rides that were the best turns I’ve ever done.
A 7' 2'" fun board can be utilized in so many ways.
Guys, I recently bought the best board (Machado Two fish)for me ever and it has made me much, much, better over night. My dad always surfed so I grew up doing it but focused more of my time playing baseball/football as I was really good at those sports. Moved away from coast at 26 and stopped surfing for about 10 yrs. When I moved back I got super hooked back in, but was about 50 lbs heavier than when I stoped.
The extra weight made me feel like learning all over again. My mind wanted to do things that my body couldnt and I was having hard time figuring out the kind of surfer I needed to be. The boards were a lot of it. After loosing about 25 lbs I was a sturdy 193 lbs. I had been riding the Super Brand Fling in 5'11 and was fairly happy but inconsistent in my surfing. Great board but my next buy blew me away.
2 months ago I picked up a Machado Seaside (Two Fish) which is a twin fin. Had never ridden one before but a local ripper had been coaxing me to give one a try. I was blown away on my first wave! Had never experienced such drive while turning up face of the wave. Felt like I was actually accelerating. The other thing that has been a game changer is my new ability to blow past white water sections . Where I used to get hung up in the foam, I now race past to cleaner areas of the wave with little effort. The other aspect I like is the buttery smooth looseness of the board. Im not an overly snappy surfer, but have good balance, so this aspect of the board takes away my weekness of getting too stationary. Instead of being fast and strait, Im now fast and rather carvy. The cool thing is how many compliments I am now getting on my surfing. Feels good to come home to the wife feeling like Kelly Slater. Not really, but feels like it.
I live in south tx, yes we have surf; and typically have knee to chest wind swells. However, we have had an amazing spring with plenty of over head surf and the board has held up well in that too. Take in mind Im talking about 7 ft and 7 sec type swells, so can be very bumpy. The keel fins really help wjth that. If you are a bigger, experienced surfer you really will love this board. Give it a try!
😂😂That ending was classic!! Really informative stuff. I grew up in the late eighties and little blades were everyone HAD to have. I had more energy back then but as I got older I realized how much energy I was wasting paddling to catch a wave. I started getting thicker and thicker boards and love how much easier it is to catch waves so you can use more energy surfing than paddling!!
Thanks for making this Ben. You are a man who knows what the audience wants 🤙
I started surfing at age 14 (22 now) but could only surf a few times a year on east coast waves when my fam went on vacations. Usually would be late spring/summer so I never got to see super gnarly conditions, although I have stood up on chest & shoulder high waves. Mostly learned on typical east coast wind mush in South Carolina and Northeast Florida. Now I only live 3 hours from the coast in NC and surf more regularly. As anyone else I mainly learned on longboards and longer mid-lengths (think 7.5ft all the way to 9ft). Just got back from a trip where I finally was able to surf a Torq 6'10' board, volume of 46 I believe, width of 21 and 3/4, Fish style tail. It was a rental like all the other boards I've surfed, but after feeling how easy I was able to stand up on it and even start learning basic turns, I think it will be the first board I actually purchase for myself. I have tried to surf some shorter mid-lengths like that in the past, but never had success probably because of their volume. This one that I just surfed, however, was literally the perfect in-between of a short board and a mid-length. Paddling it felt like what I would imagine paddling a shortboard would feel like. Standing up on it was obviously harder than what I'm normally comfortable with (about 7'5") but it was just easy enough for me to pick up within a few tries but a good enough challenge because I couldn't stand up on it right away like the 7'5". Also for reference I am 155 pounds at 5'10" height. Hopefully this can help someone out who's more on the beginner/intermediate side looking for a perfect in-between of a shortboard and midlength with enough volume. I was so happy to finally find a board that's short enough to be a challenge but easy enough to stand up on and have fun. The waves were probably around 2-4ft and clean.
This was classic ... watched it twice... so many opinions and to many options,, im a Ozzie from Margaret River originally.. but live in Indonesia.. I get by with a 2 board quiver these days. A BSB 6'6 abra kadabra short board rounded pin for the big days,, and a BSB short long 610' mid length for the beach breaks out front when I can't be bothered doing a boat trip.. watching your vids Ben convinced me to try a midlength,, best thing I've done for my surfing personally..
How are you managing to live in indo as an Aussie? That's the dream, I'd love to do that
@@jmanpecka fly in fly out miner for over 30 years with an Indonesian missus .. 2 bikes an a cat ..ahahahaha ya living the dream ..
Super helpful video! I feel like every surfer has made mistakes when it comes to buying surfboards and developing a quiver. I know I personally started surfing a lot better and progressing more quickly once I finally bought a Fish. I spent 2 years coming in from surfing a performance groveler and saying "That would have been fun if I had a fish." I feel like 4 boards is my minimum quiver. A longboard for the truly gutless, a fish, a hybrid / versatile 5 fin shortboard to fill in the gaps between small and pumping, and step up / tube shooter for the day of days. (please no one tell my girlfriend that I only need 4 boards! Buying surfboards make me happy!)
I’m 44 and riding the lost hydra 5’5 33L I’m 5’7 170 surfing in south Florida really good board for head hi wind chop slop, and really good when it’s clean conditions like surfing in Satellite beach , 🤙
Yeah Brian Wynn! Made my sick ass hell mid length and I’ve been scoring on it with multiple fin set ups! Yewww what a great video !
ben you are not a kook never ever say that the world loves you and me too boards now are too complicated for me to fathom/comprehend oh brother but now in this day and age us surfers have everything at our disposal and lots of it also well dont mind me im just a nut and its a thrill just stay stoked
Amen to getting back to having fun and unwinding in the waves! I have a 3 soft board quiver and I can’t ride any of them! But I had a lot of fun trying!
Im 210lbs and 6’1, i have been surfing since i was 5 (i just turned 30) and after getting more time to surf with a job change about two years ago i started back with a 6’6 pod mod at 47L. I would highly recommend it as someone’s first shortboard outline cause it paddles like a mid length. If you are a smaller guy i would recommend the pod mod still but in a smaller size like 6’2 and below. Its a great board and the epoxy is damn near indestructible and its also an affordable mass produced board. From there i would venture into the high performance wides. I rode my buddy’s 5’10 35L and still caught waves but felt so much more nimble like my old high performance boards. I think right now after losing weight im going to get the Lost uber driver xl. Im always going to be a bigger guy with a wider stance so gone are the sub 30 liter days for me. I agree with Pyzel you should work your way down in boards in small steps until you outgrow them performance wise.
as an old ex shaper, what a great video. man it brings back memories. a long time ago I was a kneeboarder , fish guy. I couldn't sell a fish to a stand up guy . they hated them. how times change
“Because it’s fun”. Great video. Just liked and subscribed. Took it too seriously for a long time. Thanks for the reminder!
Yeah, great info, my "fish" is a early 80's "performance wide" thruster w removable third , it's THICK rails show why the float is all in the middle now, but it's always FUN!!
Awesome video! Was always wanting a video done about boards. Thx. I'm 55 and back surfing again! Longboards rule for surfing summer Jersey waves. Like they said, it's all about the FUN and catching those waves!
My dad would say, "Just think, with every wave you catch, it's practice to make yourself a better surfer!"
I still suck but I love all the "practice" I get surfing all summer long!
Awesome Vid! Hoping this turns into a deep dive series. Well done! Yeww!
Thanks!
It depends on the WAVE. If its a roller, then youre gonna need volume since thats a slower thick wave. If its a drainer, ya need rocker and narrow tail to keep you in the pocket. If youre advanced and can max out the wave, then get a high performance short board, just enough volume that lets you get in THAT wave. If youre just out there for fun, get a 7’ or bigger and enjoy the ride. If youre starting out, get 9’ softy. If youre good and have plenty of control, get a fish. Avoid the keel fish because the fins are glassed in and changing them would wreck youre board and you might as well get a regular fish that you can swap the fins. Surfings about connecting with the ocean, if you forgot that, youre blowing it and should not even think about the board, you need to realign yourself with the gift a wave gives you…peace.
Great video! I agree totally on high performance wide. LBI! Such great memories as a kid.
the new gravy video stoke is insane
i’m a heavy advocate for the mid lengths!! you can ride them in pretty much almost any condition small and overhead. i’m also a little bit taller so smaller boards are harder to ride unless they have a lot of volume
So what I'm hearing is go buy 3 more boards to have fun with.... done. I'm in Nova Scotia, been surfing for 6yrs and have a Parallax, Outlier, Sunday, and a swallow smaller mid. Always having fun. Thanks for the great video!
Love your channel Ben. Some interesting topics. I have been shaping boards for over 36 years in South Africa , Uk , Ireland and Portugal ( busch surfboards is our brand ). I dont want to make out like I know it all and this is only my take on things based on my experience.The main thing I find is that volume is important ,but not the only thing to consider when it comes to surfing. The actual area of a board can sometimes be just as important like an aeroplane wing is either big or small generating lift. For instance, you can ride a very thin Board with a broader outline ( more area) and if you are a good paddler ,it will plane and you will catch waves just as well as a more buoyant board. Conversely you might have a thick board but not so wide ( like a aeroplane wing that is small but very thick) and it becomes a dog to get the board to plane . There are so many variables. Wider tails catch waves quicker than more narrower ones, but narrower tails go vertical in the pocket better. Fuller rails will help you build speed in smaller waves but will bog out on you in bigger waves depending on the actual apex of the curve in your rail and if the rail has sharp edges or are more rolled. Meduim to thinner rails stick better in the wave face of bigger waves and help to control the speed but struggle to build speed in small waves. We have not even talked about rocker , foil, bottom configurations or fin set-ups . Then there is the other aspects of poly or eps constructions. Flex in the board etc. So many variables. I love more volume in a board but obviously we need to look at all aspects of surfing like speed , flow, control etc. Keep up the good work Ben. Love your content .
I have a 5'8 Lost RNF, a 7'2 fun shape, and a 6'8 pin tail thruster. When I was into bigger waves I had a 7'6 pin tail mini gun. I've had some iteration of that quiver since the early 90s. It works. The first dude had it down.
I have been surfing my whole life, (also representing the SHBP profile pic, east coast represent) and this video has blown my mind. So many things I didn’t consider.
7'0" Wave Bandit at Jax Beach Pier during summer for the win.
Stoking!
Twinzers and Bonzers are the best stress relievers for me(agree with Wynn), your results may vary.
the pyzalian 2 has given me an incredible range from 2-7ft. I picked one up for almost nothing since it was previously snapped and repaired, it was also 2litres more then my normal boards but man that board is amazing. It ended up snapping on a reef break pumping 6-8ft barrels, that day was all about slowing down the board because it had too much speed.
❤thank you for doing this!!! Been going through surfboard tutorials to buy a new board I needed this video 💪
Can’t wait for the follow up videos!
I started surfing 2 years ago, and after a few long board sessions bought a 6'2 mactavish micro 2nd hand tuflite and really struggled with stability as its a bit thin for a beginner and i think it needs a bit of push in the waves to get going and lock in. but i dont know. I then bought a 7'4 machardo seaside and beyond (because i was 42, it was on market place and i had the money). This board changed everything. i can pop up and ride any little wave on it. when i say ride i mean stand up and not fall off, maybe a bit of turning if im lucky. And when you are out back people see the pointy end and think you know what you are doing. Its a mid length, 50 litres, pointy tail that really locks in like that dude said. but Im basically a child coasting along in 1st gear in a porsche tucan. I know that and it hurts. I live on the south coast of England. My local break is 45 minutes away and barrels never occur. if it gets bigger than 4-6ft the waves get wierd, not in a good, predictable, peaky way. I believe that my experience tipifies the experience of most people who decide they want to learn to surf in adulthood. All the gear, no idea, crap conditions, very little time to actually practice. But also, Im now 43, i dont give a f what people think, Im just there for the claim baby :)
I bought my first surfboard 10 years ago from a dude off craigslist in a Marlton parking lot. Turns out it was a Wynn custom 8'-0". That board has moved with me from Jersey, to New England, to Southern California and it has been my favorite all-around board.
So i live in Tennessee ive always wanted to surf i woke up randomly one morning and ordered a wave master foam to learn on ive never been more excited in my life i got 4 beach trips planned for next summer and im gonna go to Charleston and surf city once a month to practice preciate the videos they helped me for when i wanna switch to a real board
Love this video. Love every surfers perspective, especially coming from jersey surfers. Been experimenting alot with different boards laitly but ingot a high performance wide board. And I'm absolutely hooked on it.
A nice fun video for this important issue. Growing up poor it was just assumed one 80s performance board was the deal. No telling how much that set me back. Remember my second board was a 7ish "fun shape" and how much that accelerated the learning process. I kind of stayed in that range with the mindset that you just surfed one board. As I started by second life of surfing later in life a few years ago and losing weight down to my ideal size a quiver is so important if you want to surf everyday. Think a longboard has to be thrown in there. My first was 2 years ago and it has unlocked so many days.
As surfers we tend to overthink everything - our skill, the conditions, our equipment, etc. My recommendation for anyone progressing and trying to dial in their surfboards is to do just that, surf surf surf, and dial it in. Start more forgiving in terms of shape and volume, and spend the hours on the board. Once you ‘feel’ like the board, not your skill, is holding you back, you make the next step and chisel away at the board; pull in the nose and tail, sharpen the rails, add some rocker, try some different fin setups. It really can be as simple as surf as much as possible and try as many different boards as possible. Only once you’ve surfed a range of boards at a range of dimensions will you understand how to communicate with a shaper the type of surfer you are and what will work best for you. Yaahhhooooo
Finally, a good video about sizes! I wish you talked a little bit about choosing the right shortboard based on one's height, weight (maybe even gender?), but very useful either way!
Good general info and I agree everyone thinks they surf better than they do!
My quiver is big… over 30 boards I rode em all, my smallest is 31L and my biggest is 40L they all have their place but for me it’s based on how good (glassy clean and lined up) the waves are for which hoard I ride. Living in Hawaii I get a lot of powerful waves open ocean swells, and also close to shore reef breaks that are small and hollow at times and mushy other times. It’s about how u surf really there is no formula besides basics mentioned: if I can paddle it and stand up and ride it then it works ;)
This is my new favourite video in the world
Sweet to hear from so many people’s opinions
Was late to watching this but this was absolutely EPIC! One of my favorite videos of yours ever and something totally different. Yewww!!
Thanks Steve !
Great stuff! I'll check out this vid from time to time for the quicer decision making!
Great video! East coast either flat or overhead, never much in between like Cali surf. RK nailed that, goes from flat to tubes.
I ended up with Sharpeye Inferno72 5’10 wide 32L. I would call myself lower level intermediate. The calculator says 30L at 185 lbs if I’m advanced so this is a nice board for a wide range of conditions. Board works great so far. Cheers from SD.
This was interesting hearing the different opinions high performance wide for the win! 🌊
I'm a heavy short guy and my go to board these days is 6'.0" squash tail with lots of volume but surprisingly narrow for todays standard... like 21 inches...I basically like old school 90's short boards but with the volume super extra beefed up to accommodate my weight and old age.
very good video! i ride a firewire dominator 2 as my (wide) performance shortboard and a puddle jumper as groveler for weaker, fatter waves. that serves me pretty well ad an intermediate/advanced guy
Great video. Waves are a little different here in SoCal there is less of a wave duality but this is inspiring me to consolidate my quiver a little bit
Orange watch cap guy nails it on volume, our you catching waves?
Bravo
Different opinions but good conclusion. Short performance wide is the go to board with a step up board for good conditions.
I have a solid 3 board quiver for myself here in San Diego.
I have a 7’6 Channel Islands M-23, Machado Seaside and beyond and a 8’0 foamie.
Yes,yes,yes!!!! Give us more of this kinda content from time to time. Loved this! Most valuable thing taken from this was im so glad that even a god like yourself was confused by this subject 🤪🙌🤙🍍🍍🍍🍍
This was the info I’ve been looking for! Thank you!
I snapped my short board that’s 31 lts and I’ve just been using my hybrid wide short board with 40 lts, I’ve been using it all conditions and love the paddle power it gives me I can nearly do as good maneuvers on it but it does hold me back a little when it’s big. But now I don’t know how many lts I should get for a chest to head high board as I like 40 lts now. I’ve been converted to higher volume boards as they are more fun and I can still turn it pretty good.
When I surfed, I usually only had one board at a time. I was surfing through the transition from long to short boards. My favorite boards for all around were Bonzers. I would carry several center fins, each one of which would change how my board would ride in different conditions. :-)
Not a charger. Just out here having adult grom stoke. I know my abilities and I’m fine cruising on my costco special and my pintail mid length for bigger days. Hawaiian waters don’t need another kook on a shortboard 😂
I love having volume. More volume = easy for me to control and paddle.
I have a 6’0 Slater Sci Fi 2.0 with the bat wing tail and its 31.5 Liters and is the perfect one board quiver! It’s a little big on the small days and a little small on the big days but has the volume to float me! Plus it’s a 5 fin set up so thruster on small days and quad on big heavy barreling days! It works! Im in Ocean City MD by the way! So same waves as Jersey maybe worse 😂😂
Excelente vídeo. Muito boas informações. Obrigado Ben!
Thank you so much for the video! Could you discuss further what an ideal quiver looks like for someone that rides mostly midlengths and longboards in the follow up video?
I needed this video, I’m in El Salvador and just about to chose a board. I think it has to be a fun board…or mid length.
This is perfect. I'm on the west coast of Canada and looking for a new board.
Step-up performance, mid-length, a 9'6" San "O" board for me and a 7 ft soft top to good off on.
I was riding a catch surf in hurricane swell and had a blast.
super helpful bro. thanks for this
Kevin Morris, from the surf shop, nailed it!
I have wanted to start surfing for a really long time since I was a little kid but I have never found a place to learn and I have never had enough money to buy a board. I still don’t got enough money but when I do I’m getting that short board.
Great video Ben! I'm a bit older now, 64, and my mid-length egg is idea! It catches any wave, good maneuverability and lots of fun! I don't have the paddling power as I once had, when I rode HP boards.
Loved this! Thank you for helping us, Ben.
NEED ADVICE with choosing my first STEP UP. @Anyone reading, I'd appreciate any tips, and thank you in advance!
I'm a good intermediate, 33yrs, athletic/fit, 5'9" 163 lbs, have a 6'0" Rocket Redux 37L that I'm learning to "shortboard" on and enjoy the extra volume in NJ. Learning cut backs but can carve and pump fairly well...beginning to ride deep in the pocket just ahead of the barrel.
I feel a bit outgunned when it gets head high+
**Q: Should I get a step up with more length & less volume than my high perf wide? I'm considering a shorter mid length like the Crowd Killer too. I want to error on the side of catching more waves.
Thoughts? Thank you Nub Nation
Great video ben. Next in the series. Please cover all the various types of fishes.
Love the video. What does "out front" mean though? Would also love a video if you could talk about conditions and finding the right spot. Like you've talked about how jersey doesn't do great with super long period swell because it's just longs walls. Like how do certain types of beaches, points, bathymetry hold certain swells? I'm sure I could find vids but would rather get your semi-pro explanation
Thanks Ben - another great video. I think surfboards should be measured in fun not litres. Surprised no one mentioned the mini mal / fun board. Surely a good choice for a one board quiver for an intermediate surfer.
U need 3 minimum with a fin set up . First a graveler for the small mess and two step ups that are actually typical shortboards round squash nice full rails for waves that are slopy and a chippy round pin for the beyond vert drain fests. Then ur riding similar rail lines in all surf conditions and can switch ur fins around based on the limits of each board in its ideal conditions like overlap
Wonderful helpful vid......Mike Hynson had an article in Surfer in 1974 talkin bout get that foam up front..where you paddle....what surfboard company makes boards with da tick up front? Thx Grav!
you’re literally my comfort person i love you kislux !
i've been riding a HP wide for the last 10 years. i dont have waves bigger than 4 foot and it never barrels where I live so a single board quiver like that works well for me
I am trying my softtop 44litre as groveller tommorrow >>> I was using the mini mal softtop 54litre with good success catching small and medium waves but not interacting with the wave with turns just fading in and out of the pocket. I thought I needed volume or float in small stuff so I am surprised to hear that smaller boards are better in these conditions.
Loving this type of content. Bicep put a detour in the plan but didn’t slow you down.
kevmo was our paper boy on asbury one block away!
Great video, Ben - Thanks for sharing 👍
Really liked the PNW stuff you did
Thanks @BenGravyy
Probably my favourite video of yours (sorry, I am not a superfan)
Great conversations and perspectives
Great video loved it of in the follow up video u can also talk with heavier long time surfer which boards they use it will be great
Sic break down bro. I have been surfing since gromhood I am now going backwards in my surfing with age but still want to hang onto surfing as best as possible I am all for the fun side. So many guys tell me you can't surf a fish all the time and I say yeah well watch me hahaha
hell yeah this was a rad educational experience. for the dream baby "im confused"
I've lived in Jersey for 5 years, and I come from a country with a tropical climate, warm water all year round. my first Winter season here was a disaster, wrong board, wrong Wetsuit, wrong fins size , etc etc... in other words, I had to relearn how to surf again , because using 5mm is not at all normal for someone who has lived their whole life surfing in boardshorts. If you had made this video about 5 years ago, I wouldn't have struggled so much to adapt. 😂
I NEED this video!!
Hey Ben! You forgot about the logs hahaha especially here on the east coast! Come down to Stuart next time you’re in Florida. Come see us at Ohana Surf Shop, love the content and keeping the dream alive 🤙🏾🤙🏾
Care to give a working definition?
I have a question,I’m pretty new to surfing and I recently bought a second hand board, it’s a 6’11 x 20 inches with a pretty thin pointed nose and a fish tail, is this considered a midlength or a gun board and will it work in smaller waves??
I like a 6'2" rounded pin. What is a fish? They remind me of1970s Stingers- only usefel in certain ( small ) waves.
Absolute top-tier content