Just got my Icemaster Max 2 and followed your tutorial pretty much exactly. Everything came out perfect and I am very pleased. Thank you for taking the time to put this together. Would love to see a follow up video on how the chiller has been working out for you.
Hello from Austria. Thanks for the video. I just wanted to know, how did you managed the two plastic 90° elbows on the left tubing on glycol in/out. Thank you! Mike
Great vid. Clean modification to get a lot more versatility out of this chiller. It would be great if KegLand / MoreBeer added pass through outlets as a standard feature. Do you know what the max current rating is for the relay that you're passing your heating elements through? My advice would be to add fuses inline with your heating element plugs. That way if anyone accidentally plugs something into the outlet that would exceed the current limit of the relay, you blow a fuse instead of frying your controller.
Great information, thanks. I live on the Gulf coast and will not be using the heating often. I have one eighty watt heating element that I'm going to use on one side only. Do you think it would be safe to use the existing power for the chiller to power the plug for the heating element? I don't think both would be running at the same time down here.
Ok, so bear with me; I haven’t taken the machine apart yet and looked at the electronics. I get that you are using the relay to act as a switch. My question is, why are you running separate power. Are the relays not powered or do they not have enough power to run the heater? The directions from Keg Land do not indicate that extra or alternative power is needed. Also, assuming the extra power is needed, where/what are you wiring the power cord to; you don’t show this in the video? Thanks Ray
Silly question, so you've set it up so that the IceMaster Max triggers the usage of the Heating elements, without having to run the element power 'through' the IceMaster? ie you're using the Icemaster's temp control like a 'switch', but the power itself is going direct from the elements, through the plugs you installed in the sides, and then via them through an extension cable into the wall socket. Is that right? Seems like a great idea! Are there any downsides to doing that? PS, love your content, just what I'm after at the moment :)
Yes you are correct. There are no downsides only upside. If you didn’t do this you would have to get a complete different temp controller to run only the heating element and you would have to use the ice masters temp probe to control the cooling. With this set up the ice master max two controls both heating and cooling.
I’m not an electrician. But I don’t think that original power cord would be able to handle the load of a heating element let alone 2 if you were running both at the same time.
@@zackrabbitbrewing4997 I would need to see the electric rating on the chiller, but from the description in the instructions, it only draws about 5A at 120V. The cord size on the unit is probably 16GA (which can carry up to 18A over a short distance). The spike conical heaters draw .67A to 3.33A depending on size (5 to 30 gal fermenter). based on these numbers, the units 16Ga cord can support up to 4 large heaters (if the cooling is on, at least one heater would be off) for a total of 14.99A (3.33 + 3.33 + 3.33 + 5A for cooler). This would likely be the max a single wall outlet could handle, so the only reason to do 2 separate cords would be to plug into two separate wall circuits (which still would not help much if all 4 heaters are on). Of course if you use the heaters for smaller (less than 30 gal ) fermenters, or only do 2 heaters, you would not be near any of the limits. The temp controller heater relay shows each is rated at 10A / 120v in their instructions.
Lol. “Fuck that, I ain’t cutting into my heating element.” Nice man. Taking it to the next level. Love it. Thanks for making this vid. Gonna do the exact same when I get mine. Also, the KegLand vid says you can buy an expansion kit to add two more controllers and pumps. Not that I need it (yet) but have you heard or seen anything about that?
Fuck yeah thanks man! Oh yeah this unit is a 3/8 HP with a 4.5 gal reservoir unit. If you compare it to similar units like spikes 1/3 hp or SS Brewtech 3/8 glycol chillers you should be able to run 4 X 15 gal fermenters. Even If you were cold crashing all 4 at once I think this unit could handle it. You should be able to add those extra pumps no problem. For the price, capabilities, and pumps/temp control included its hard to be this unit in my opinion.
@@zackrabbitbrewing4997 Completely agree. I'm up in Canada so it's tough as hell to get it up here. But even with an extra $200 (CAD) in shipping, I still think this is the best bang for the buck. Thanks again for making this vid. You're doing some cool shit. Sub'd!
After installing plugs it just allows for you to plug in an external heating element so it really will just depend on which heating element you purchase. I personally use the spike brewing heating pad.
These are ones I use from spike brewing. I will say once you put them on they are pretty tough to get off again, just a heads up. spikebrewing.com/products/temp-coil-quick-connect-fittings-1
Ss brew tech has one as well or you can get one for a brew bucket. www.ssbrewtech.com/collections/accessories/products/ftss-touch-chronical-and-unitank-heating-pad
![OhGeesy x Lefty Gunplay - What It Iz [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/L0yzW9t2ixk/mqdefault.jpg)
Just got my Icemaster Max 2 and followed your tutorial pretty much exactly. Everything came out perfect and I am very pleased. Thank you for taking the time to put this together. Would love to see a follow up video on how the chiller has been working out for you.
Glad to hear that. I will most definitely plan on doing a follow up video as I have found this chiller to be worth the purchase.
Hello from Austria. Thanks for the video. I just wanted to know, how did you managed the two plastic 90° elbows on the left tubing on glycol in/out. Thank you! Mike
Great vid. Clean modification to get a lot more versatility out of this chiller. It would be great if KegLand / MoreBeer added pass through outlets as a standard feature.
Do you know what the max current rating is for the relay that you're passing your heating elements through? My advice would be to add fuses inline with your heating element plugs. That way if anyone accidentally plugs something into the outlet that would exceed the current limit of the relay, you blow a fuse instead of frying your controller.
Cool vid mate thanks for uploading. New subscriber from Australia (the home of Kegland 😜) cheers
Heck yeah!
Great information, thanks. I live on the Gulf coast and will not be using the heating often. I have one eighty watt heating element that I'm going to use on one side only. Do you think it would be safe to use the existing power for the chiller to power the plug for the heating element? I don't think both would be running at the same time down here.
late to the party, but awesome guide!
Nice video very informational bro
Nice job!
Ok, so bear with me; I haven’t taken the machine apart yet and looked at the electronics.
I get that you are using the relay to act as a switch.
My question is, why are you running separate power. Are the relays not powered or do they not have enough power to run the heater? The directions from Keg Land do not indicate that extra or alternative power is needed.
Also, assuming the extra power is needed, where/what are you wiring the power cord to; you don’t show this in the video?
Thanks
Ray
Silly question, so you've set it up so that the IceMaster Max triggers the usage of the Heating elements, without having to run the element power 'through' the IceMaster? ie you're using the Icemaster's temp control like a 'switch', but the power itself is going direct from the elements, through the plugs you installed in the sides, and then via them through an extension cable into the wall socket.
Is that right?
Seems like a great idea! Are there any downsides to doing that?
PS, love your content, just what I'm after at the moment :)
Yes you are correct. There are no downsides only upside. If you didn’t do this you would have to get a complete different temp controller to run only the heating element and you would have to use the ice masters temp probe to control the cooling. With this set up the ice master max two controls both heating and cooling.
Does this cold crash 2 fermenters to low 30s?
Instead of adding a separate AC power cord through the back, could you not simply tap into the power going into the Icemaster Max 2?
I’m not an electrician. But I don’t think that original power cord would be able to handle the load of a heating element let alone 2 if you were running both at the same time.
@@zackrabbitbrewing4997 I would need to see the electric rating on the chiller, but from the description in the instructions, it only draws about 5A at 120V. The cord size on the unit is probably 16GA (which can carry up to 18A over a short distance). The spike conical heaters draw .67A to 3.33A depending on size (5 to 30 gal fermenter). based on these numbers, the units 16Ga cord can support up to 4 large heaters (if the cooling is on, at least one heater would be off) for a total of 14.99A (3.33 + 3.33 + 3.33 + 5A for cooler). This would likely be the max a single wall outlet could handle, so the only reason to do 2 separate cords would be to plug into two separate wall circuits (which still would not help much if all 4 heaters are on). Of course if you use the heaters for smaller (less than 30 gal ) fermenters, or only do 2 heaters, you would not be near any of the limits.
The temp controller heater relay shows each is rated at 10A / 120v in their instructions.
Lol. “Fuck that, I ain’t cutting into my heating element.” Nice man. Taking it to the next level. Love it. Thanks for making this vid. Gonna do the exact same when I get mine.
Also, the KegLand vid says you can buy an expansion kit to add two more controllers and pumps. Not that I need it (yet) but have you heard or seen anything about that?
Fuck yeah thanks man!
Oh yeah this unit is a 3/8 HP with a 4.5 gal reservoir unit. If you compare it to similar units like spikes 1/3 hp or SS Brewtech 3/8 glycol chillers you should be able to run 4 X 15 gal fermenters. Even If you were cold crashing all 4 at once I think this unit could handle it. You should be able to add those extra pumps no problem.
For the price, capabilities, and pumps/temp control included its hard to be this unit in my opinion.
@@zackrabbitbrewing4997 Completely agree. I'm up in Canada so it's tough as hell to get it up here. But even with an extra $200 (CAD) in shipping, I still think this is the best bang for the buck.
Thanks again for making this vid. You're doing some cool shit. Sub'd!
How hot do these get temperature-wise? I'm getting an IceMaster Max 4 and am interested in adding this.
After installing plugs it just allows for you to plug in an external heating element so it really will just depend on which heating element you purchase. I personally use the spike brewing heating pad.
Here is a link to the one I use but all the major brands have one as well. spikebrewing.com/products/conical-heater-1?var=6865681252411
What are the quick connects you are using on the barbs off the front?
These are ones I use from spike brewing. I will say once you put them on they are pretty tough to get off again, just a heads up.
spikebrewing.com/products/temp-coil-quick-connect-fittings-1
What is your heating set up for the conical?
I use a spike conical fermenter heater.
spikebrewing.com/collections/conical-accessories/products/conical-heater-1
Ss brew tech has one as well or you can get one for a brew bucket.
www.ssbrewtech.com/collections/accessories/products/ftss-touch-chronical-and-unitank-heating-pad
Aquarium heater and a bucket