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I’m not an electrician. But I don’t think that original power cord would be able to handle the load of a heating element let alone 2 if you were running both at the same time.

@@zackrabbitbrewing4997 I would need to see the electric rating on the chiller, but from the description in the instructions, it only draws about 5A at 120V. The cord size on the unit is probably 16GA (which can carry up to 18A over a short distance). The spike conical heaters draw .67A to 3.33A depending on size (5 to 30 gal fermenter). based on these numbers, the units 16Ga cord can support up to 4 large heaters (if the cooling is on, at least one heater would be off) for a total of 14.99A (3.33 + 3.33 + 3.33 + 5A for cooler). This would likely be the max a single wall outlet could handle, so the only reason to do 2 separate cords would be to plug into two separate wall circuits (which still would not help much if all 4 heaters are on). Of course if you use the heaters for smaller (less than 30 gal ) fermenters, or only do 2 heaters, you would not be near any of the limits. The temp controller heater relay shows each is rated at 10A / 120v in their instructions.

Yes I thought about that and is a good idea. You would need to add another co2 post on the other side the only reason I didn’t go that route is when removing the flex chamber for dumping its a bit harder to release the pressure. As you would need to get another co2 ball lock with a hose attachment to connect to co2 post to release pressure before removing. At that point I figured that’s more thing I had to clean with not much more benefit. Just being lazy I guess lol!

Your exactly correct. Just could not get the X1 pro down to cold crash temps. I did have a video I did on the x1 pro and its cold crash capabilities. It worked for my needs for quite some time before I decided to cold crashing is a must. I do a ton of NEIPA’s so I feel the need to cold crash in order to clean up the style of beer it most make. CHEERS

Nice, your "new" setup looks amazing, hope it's meeting your needs. I get the x1pro this week. It's going to be a huge upgrade from the ss brew buckets I have been using. I have a beer in my brew plans that will need some dry hopping so hoping the x1pro helps me do that without introducing O2. I am not overly concerned (yet) with cold crashing but who knows, it's a journey! Keep up the good work!

Glad to hear that. I will most definitely plan on doing a follow up video as I have found this chiller to be worth the purchase.

Thanks you sir!! CHEERS!

You know I got the pressure pack as well and did not receive a PRV with the kit. I did however want to change the stock PRV at one time to allow for manual pressure release but after looking into more I ended up just leaving it alone. The stock PRV is a safety PRV valve rated at 15 PSI. It’s not designed to manually release pressure like a keg PRV. I decided it was better to just to use a spunding valve instead since I was going to be using it anyways. Hope this make sense.

If you going to be doing pressurized fermentation you will need to use a spunding valve anyway so it is pointless to replace the stock PRV.

After installing plugs it just allows for you to plug in an external heating element so it really will just depend on which heating element you purchase. I personally use the spike brewing heating pad.

Here is a link to the one I use but all the major brands have one as well. spikebrewing.com/products/conical-heater-1?var=6865681252411

That I’m not sure. The pumps can pump 158.5 gallon/hour but are only rated for a max head/distance of 16.5 feet per pump. So the pump would need to be able to handle a 30 foot distance 15’ to your tower and 15’ back. However if you used this unit should have no problem cooling that but you need to ungrade the pump I’m guessing.

And you would also have to take into account if you plan to use it along with a fermenter it’s capabilities. The good thing about this unit is that I does have a 5 Gal reservoir so you might be able to still run a fermenter along side as well. Really your bottle neck would be the pumps.

@@zackrabbitbrewing4997 Thanks for the info!

Is use spike brewing duotight fittings. spikebrewing.com/collections/accessories/products/temp-coil-quick-connect-fittings-1

Oh sorry the Duotight fittings are the stock fittings that brewbuilt provides with the unit.

Really? I will give it a try.

Not very load, my wife’s office is in the room right next to it and doesn’t even hear it. Just a small fan.

Heck yeah!

Yes you are correct. There are no downsides only upside. If you didn’t do this you would have to get a complete different temp controller to run only the heating element and you would have to use the ice masters temp probe to control the cooling. With this set up the ice master max two controls both heating and cooling.

I do two packs usually then do a yeast starter as well.

1/2” post

I actually did quite a bit of research on this unit and the stasis unit before I made my decision. This unit is still a way better value in my opinion. The only real benefit I could find on the stasis would be the compact size for people who have limited space. But if that’s not an issue I don’t see any reason I would purchase the stasis over this the ice master max 2.

@@zackrabbitbrewing4997 On the Max 2, does both pumps run at the same time or can they independently run? Thanks for your input!

Both pumps and temp gauges are completely independent of each other allowing you to run two fermenters at the same time. For example you would be able to have one fermenter in cold crash stage(say 30 degrees) while your other fermenter can be in early fermentation temps say around 68 degrees.

Or you would be able to run only one fermenter and the other pump can remain idle or can even be turned off.

@@zackrabbitbrewing4997 Thanks, bro!

The only Duotight fittings are on the sight glass and this will come with the unit when you purchase. I do know that kegland sells duotight fittings or you can get them just about any home brew shop.

These are ones I use from spike brewing. I will say once you put them on they are pretty tough to get off again, just a heads up. spikebrewing.com/products/temp-coil-quick-connect-fittings-1

I use the 90 degree connectors on both side just when I recorded the video I only had them on the left side. If you don’t use a quick disconnect 90 and connect hosing strait to Barb the hose has a tendency to get flimsy and kink from the Barb. I use them off of the temp coil as well from the fermenter. Here the link for the ones I use form sine brewing. spikebrewing.com/collections/conical-accessories/products/temp-coil-quick-connect-fittings-1 The compressor is not very load at all. There is a heat fan that kicks on and that’s not really that load either. My brewery is In The basement and my wife’s home office is right next door and she don’t notice anything. It doesn’t run very often in my experience but will notice the compressor turn on more frequent when cold crashing but nothing crazy.

Fuck yeah thanks man! Oh yeah this unit is a 3/8 HP with a 4.5 gal reservoir unit. If you compare it to similar units like spikes 1/3 hp or SS Brewtech 3/8 glycol chillers you should be able to run 4 X 15 gal fermenters. Even If you were cold crashing all 4 at once I think this unit could handle it. You should be able to add those extra pumps no problem. For the price, capabilities, and pumps/temp control included its hard to be this unit in my opinion.

@@zackrabbitbrewing4997 Completely agree. I'm up in Canada so it's tough as hell to get it up here. But even with an extra $200 (CAD) in shipping, I still think this is the best bang for the buck. Thanks again for making this vid. You're doing some cool shit. Sub'd!

Yes sir 3 Gal Distilled water to 1 Gal of glycol will give you 25% dilution. Off the top of my head I think brewbuilt claims at 25% glycol freeze point is -7C. You might have to double check that but I usually have my Unit set at -4C when cold crashing.

I use a spike conical fermenter heater. spikebrewing.com/collections/conical-accessories/products/conical-heater-1

Ss brew tech has one as well or you can get one for a brew bucket. www.ssbrewtech.com/collections/accessories/products/ftss-touch-chronical-and-unitank-heating-pad

You know I have not tried tilt Pi nor tilt bridge. I have considered about looking into tilt pi as I use a rasp Pi to run my brewhouse 3 vessel system. The application I use is Craftbeerpi 3. I know CraftBeerPi 4 is out and have been thinking about switching and at that point I would consider using it to monitor fermentation. But I also like Brewfather paired with the Tilt so that’s where my hesitation to switch is.

I do have a few other video where I monitored fermentation with Brewfather with the tilt if you want to take a look. ruclips.net/video/FMct07l9kJs/видео.html

Sorry should have given credit where credits due. Lol kegland is in Australia everyone!!! Don’t listen to me.

Yes you need to remove the blue U shaped clip in order to remove the fitting. You will need a little screw driver or something similar. Keep track of the blue clip as that’s what keeps it in place.

ruclips.net/video/U6-Gw3SDvWc/видео.html Once you remove the tab you will need to compress the collar and pull the hose at the same time. This video shows it pretty well. Fast forward to 1:18. Let me know if you got it.

Hey Allen thanks for watching. I will try to make the heating element video this week once I am finished cold crashing a fermenter. I am also planning on making a set up video as I found the instructions a little vague.

@@zackrabbitbrewing4997 Awesome! Thank you!!

@@allanbrand ruclips.net/video/gtUloT0caSE/видео.html here you go buddy!

Hey John! I’ve tried both and I would say both have there benefits. There are several options when it comes to hop droppers. Brewers hardware and brewtools are some good options. There is a 4” port at the top of the fermenter that would be the best way to go but then will be unable to use the pressure pack. Or you can use the pressure pack with has a 1.5” port and use a hop dropper that fits that size. The hop dropper can get pretty expensive as well especially for the 4” one. The 1.5” dry hopper retails around $160 and the 4” you can get around $350!

@@zackrabbitbrewing4997 Thanks Zack. The 1.5'' would be the way to go and would work ok I suppose. What about the drama of having a sight glass utube set up to dump trub and old hops? Cheers. The beer line in the Flexi bottle bottom I always thought would be a good idea. I see it works pretty good as well and the price is right.

@@johnfreeborn979 using a more of a traditional set up on the bottom of the fermenter works well. Especially because brewbuilt has a 2” port on the bottom of the fermenter. I use a sight glass with a 90 and a butterfly valve. When you dump anything I will throw on a reducer Barb to avoid a huge mess especially if the fermenter is under pressure.

@@zackrabbitbrewing4997 I've been using Fermentasaurus and Fermzilla. The bottom collection bottles became redundant pretty quickly. Fermzilla split last brew (luckily above the liquid level), so in the market for Brewbuilt etc. Cheers.

@@johnfreeborn979 heck yeah man hope you find my videos helpful! Cheers!

Fuckin Aces!

CHEERS!🤘

I like your style lol!

Right on thanks brother! I know I have watched plenty of your videos over the years!! Cheers!!

The temp tablet is not brewbuilt. It is an iPad that I use to run a brewing software called Bewfather(alternative to Beersmith). I then use a tilt to read the temps and gravity to monitor fermentation and when paired with Brewfather it with show real time data via Graphs. Hope this make sense. I’ve been thinking about making a video on my set us since I have had a few people ask. Plus I’m in need of posting more content…. I’ve been slacking!! Feel free with any more questions!

@@zackrabbitbrewing4997 Top man and very helpful. More videos please?

@@zackrabbitbrewing4997 No issues with the Tilt signal through the X1?

@@michaelgranoth9406 I have had success with setting my Bluetooth device (iPad/iPhone) directly on top of the fermenter with no issues. I did originally have it set on a table next to the fermenter about within a foot distance and it seems to still work. If possible I would stick with resting on top of fermenter for piece of mind.