Hi George Next time you will be drilling in stainless steel, use low speed on the drill and high pressure. high speed makes the steel hot and when stainless steel gets hot then it gets even harder. So to save your drills and hole saws, oil low speed andhigh pressure. Sincerely Zibbe1000
Thanks George, I know this is an older video but its just as valuable to me today as it was last year to all who saw it and it will remain valuable for many years just like all your videos ... thank you for your patients and for sharing a wealth of knowledge with all who would listen..God Bless
I m happy you mention : no sacrificial run!!! Cuz i just got my self a 100L Still. and that is because i hate loosing time with small 5Gal. Stills TIME is precious
Thanks George. Great video! We drill a lot of stainless steel boxes at work. I like to use mustard to help drill them out. It works good, but it ends up smelling like hot dogs and it might make you hungry! Try it.
The larger your hole saw, the slower you need to go. Stainless is best drilled as slow as possible, with as much pressure as possible. Lard works well as a lubricant as it will change state and draw heat away from your surface. Drilling holes along the score line gives all the swarf a place to go, otherwise your just milling metal, producing heat, toughening what you are trying to drill, while making your bit more brittle and not lasting long. These things add extra steps to the process, but they make it faster and easier in the long run. I like your info on brewing and your appreciation for processes.
Great information George I was starting to jones for a new one and was using the library to get my fix sacrificial runs come from soldered copper stills to clean out the flux used when sweating the pieces together. That's why all the cleaning runs to insure that you remove all the flux. Happy New Year and thanks for all of your time and videos to help us all.
Thanks George! For all your videos, advice and insights . I'm 4 days in on my first run of 6lb corn, 6 sugar, and 10, givrtak 2 h2o. Had to move it 2 days ago cuz I stunk up the house. But it does make the garage smell good though.
I was debating on making a keg still or buying a Brewhouse. I decided on the Brewhaus. Lol if I seen this video one hour ago I probably wouldn't have... Still great info. Thanks George
Luv ya, George. Your videos are interesting, instructional, and damn funny. I use a step bit to cut my holes, cheap bits, and they too eventually fail. Though they leave a circular hole that the next step bit will easily fit.
just saw a video about stainless steel, apparently as it heats up the stainless hardens in real time, so the slower the drill the more successful the drilling will be.
This is true. Years ago I was drilling a bunch of stainless steel junction boxes at work to fit cable glands into. My supervisor (boilie turned sparky) told me I was drilling too slow and to give him a go. He went halls to the wall on the trigger and friction drilled a hole similar to the episode of the Simpsons, where homer tore apart 3d space. Burnt the 20mm holesaw out. I had to get crafty to drill it out to a 25mm hole, without a step bit. Seen people drill and get their bit molten, and change the shape of it.
JUST FOR INFO SAKE, AFTER GETTING THE FIRST HOLE DRILLED( WIYJ THR HOLE SAW, TURN THE DRILL OVER AS THAT THE NON-CUTTING PART OF THE SHANK IS IN THE SAW, AND NOT CUTTING A BIGGER HOLE; MAKES FOR A LOT BETTER HOLE SAW CUT.
Yes, stainless sink's heat away from the base metal exceptionally well as it hardens due to heat, leaving your bit to take the dammage. SLOW speed with high pressure is how to cut stainless (sans plasma cutter). Note I said CUT, not drill! It aint wood!
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing Grandpa told me about having to make a sackrafishel batch once and awhile.The store goes that if-n he didn't make some for grandma and her book club friends once and awhile she would make life kinda hard on grampa. So he would just run some through just to help clean the stuff out.No harm no foul.
Great video and thank you for all you do for this community! @Barley and Hops Brewing, you stated that all heating elements are NPT. My understanding is that common heating elements are not NPT but are actually NPS (straight thread as opposed to tapered), which is why a gasket is needed on hot water heaters instead of Teflon tape on the threads. If it works, it works I guess :) #HappyDistilling
Awesome as always !! I'm running Missouri Scotch as I type. My Air Still makes it interesting, lol. Can't wait to go big, still wise, so I can make it RIGHT 😉 Happy New Year George, thanks for everything Sir !!
@1:35 "I'm gonna use this 1-1/8" hole saw......." OK, I'm confused. I-1/8" hole-saw diameter is 1.125". The O.D. of 1" NPT is 1.315" How is that gonna work? What am I missing/overlooking? One would think the diameter of the outer threads of the bulkhead assembly would be the minimum hole size. EDIT: Correct holesaw size is 1-5/8" (per link provided in description) Sorry, George!
Niiice!! I wonder if it leaked due to not de-burring the hole? I've worked a lot with stainless steel and like other people have said use a carbide bit made for stainless and then drill just fast enough to cut (drill SLOW). And just like you did, you use a smaller bit first and step up to bigger bits.. I'm about to drill 2 S.S. kettle for my electric brew sys. Thank you for the tip on the distance off the bottom of the kettle..
Which bulk head did you get? I followed the link but there’s multiple 1” options. I’m going to go back and watch again and see if the specifics were in the video. Ignore this if that’s the case. Great video. Just what I need.
Thats real nice George.. I might do it some day... but you were wrong about one thing.... Not everybody wants to do a sacrificial run... I sure don't.... i will wash as best i can with soap and water...then run some vinegar..... the get after the bidness at hand. Miss you and the vids.... hope to see ya back soon
I have a 15" copper bucket filled with sand to become a sand battery and I want to insert one of these water heater elements to heat the sand. I'm looking at 1000 watt one... don't know if I can use one of higher wattage...thinking 1000w might limit my sand from heating to the highest temperature to be safe but optimum heat. Also wondering if I'd need a 3 prong plug for heating it. Any advice would sure be great. I'm a 64 yr old woman with a lot of how to knowledge, just want to create this sand battery to be it's best. I've considered ceramic heating elements, or an electric coil stove top burner...this water heater element seems to impress me the most...not sure of what wattage though. I want to also get a peltier fan to circulate.
Hi George, thanks for all you wisdom and in site. I have a 18.5g vever reflux and I have everything for converting to electric with PID as you like it with the same components except for the 1 inch weldless bulkhead. You gave someone and link in previous comments but that turned out to be for a tri clamp apparatus for something none related. I am sort of stumped now for where to go from here since I have everything else on order for a standard element. Any Ideas would be well appreciated. Thanks George!
If you use steady pressure and low RPMS you will have much more success drilling stainless. Stainless is very easy to work harden and you'll have a hard time getting through. 👍
I don't understand the sacrificial run either. I did a 100% water run, i figured the high temp would be good, run it over what I ever plan too. Made a quart of distilled water that i'll be happy to use in my humidor. Then I did the 50/50 water/vinegar run. If that ain't clean enough then it wont never be! I'm not wasting a drop of that hard earned "likker!" First real run tasted good to me. I once heard a story about a woman who always cut the ends off her meatloaf before cooking. She did it because her mother did it. Her mother did it because her mother also did it. One day the woman go curious about why they always wasted that meat so she asked her mother. Her mother said, "well, because that's how my mother taught me." So the woman called her grandmother up. She asked her why they always wasted the meat on the ends of her meatloaf. Grandma said, "because we didn't have a pan big enough to fit it and we couldn't afford a new one!" Some things just get passed on but the reasoning gets forgotten. There is a lot of that in home distilling just because the nature of the world we live in. No a lot got written down and everything was passed on by word of mouth.
Thank you for another good video George. but was watching the video with my 11/2 year old son and he seen the cheese balls under your work bench. so we had to go to the store and buy some cheese balls and he said yummy. lol
Lol kids... Mine let a jar full of fireflys go in my mothers house. She said, "Tyler you just let a bunch of bugs out in my house!"... To which he replied, "welcome to your new home!" ...gotta love em!
wow. great video but I went and ordered the 1" bulkhead that you have on your list. I think I made a mistake. lol, once I placed the order it was just shy of $56 Canadian with $42 shipping. I'm hoping they will cancel the order. I need to look around my area. That part isn't worth more the $25-30. But once I have one I am gonna copy your install. Word for word. Great video. Thanks again
@@poboy942 not giving advice just stating a fact about a DIY copper column . I have learned a lot from George . I sure hope he returns to share some more knowledge . Best of luck to ya .
I have a 15gal keg I'm thinking of a double heating element , just gotta figure out a digital control unit , where I can shut one off or down after desired temperature.
I suppose there is no easy way to use the bulkheads on the 15 gal beer keg, too hard to get it inside but I'm definitely adding them to my two little pot stills
Hey George, Happy New Year. A thought came a while back about the cost of running the A/C chiller and the cost of ice. Maybe you could make a couple of runs testing the cost of KWH's on the chiller vs ice? Great video as always.
Hello George, I'm new to the brew! Lol.......... But I'm learning with my dad and wanted to know if we could use an electric 40 gallon water heater tank as a heating element?
Love the videos. Hope they don't stop coming. I have 2 kegs a 20L and a 58L. I want to use both with 1 element. I have a 4500w element that's a bit long for the smaller keg. Can I bend the element myself?
George, nice video for those who need that kind of help. I resonantly went Home Depot and Lowes and could only find a 7” long 2000 watt element. I noticed your element was 10” long. Was that a special order?
hi George, how did yo manage to not have any leaks from around the hole? I tried this same thing on a keg but I just couldnt get a seal even with rubber washers etc. thanks
What size of elements do you think I should use on my beer barrel I got it second hand and only had one working element Nd some shady contraptions to turn it up Nd down.im new to all this Nd got myself a t500 after the element or the electronic parts gave in but I invested nearly£500 on the beer barrel still I could really do with it working it's got two holes and all the clamps Nd seals for two elements .I need advice on setting it up or trand how to set the electronic parts up ndto be able to turn both or just one element at a time.
You are my " go to " guy for all still stuff.... but you said " gotta put on my two wires " . Uhhhh we have to do a little better than that for the non elect. guys. I believe that is a water heater element and it must be 220VAC if I am correct . Would it run on 120VAC though ?
If a guy had a digiboil, would adding a voltage reg like the one keg land sells fix the cycling of the of the elements while trying to distill? I’d rather not crack the case to mod if the regulator would work.
Do you have any videos that show how to plug in something like this and keep it automated to stay the right temperature? I cant find a good simple tutorial anywhere and the t500 is driving me nuts, even with the water flow regulator
Hello George,:. @Barley and Hops Brewing . I have a 50 ltr still ,its the Chinees football you have tested. Can you help me with the right heating element for this still and the thing that clambs so it won',t leak please? I like to drill a whole in it, but dont know where i can order the right tools to close the still Hope you can help me with a site where i can order that. Greetz, Nico from Holland.
George, I am having a hard time finding a 1" stainless bulkhead. Went to your link and they only show 1/2 & 3/4"? Any idea where I could find a one inch? Thanks, love your videos
Thanks George. I went to your link and the only size bulkhead I can find does not have an inside thread of 1 inch. I tried other places like amazon and the same results. any suggestions?
Enjoying ur videos from Norway..would love to make myself another nice still, but since I'm European I struggle with this damn inches hehe 😂 1/8 inch hole saw to make hole for the heat element.. Tried to convert it to mm..but I got 3 mm..that can't be right.. must be 30 mm??
I am looking into this kind of setup but I need the whole setup element power supply and I want to do it the way you did in this video looking for a 110 setup can you help me out here?
you're drill didn't go through because you generated too much heat and hardened the steel. Go with a low RPM and do it on and off to avoid creating extra heat. takes time but it will go through much easier.
I took a picture of the 1" weldless bulkhead and scaled it in a CAD program. After scaling i measured the flange area. If all is correct the flange should be 1.940" in diameter. So if it fit it would be a tight fit.
Hi George
Next time you will be drilling in stainless steel, use low speed on the drill and high pressure.
high speed makes the steel hot and when stainless steel gets hot then it gets even harder.
So to save your drills and hole saws, oil low speed andhigh pressure.
Sincerely Zibbe1000
Thanks George, I know this is an older video but its just as valuable to me today as it was last year to all who saw it and it will remain valuable for many years just like all your videos ... thank you for your patients and for sharing a wealth of knowledge with all who would listen..God Bless
I love how you explain everything, making it super easy for a beginner to understand. Appreciate the time spent doing these educational videos. ❤
I m happy you mention : no sacrificial run!!! Cuz i just got my self a 100L Still. and that is because i hate loosing time with small 5Gal. Stills TIME is precious
Thanks George. Great video! We drill a lot of stainless steel boxes at work. I like to use mustard to help drill them out. It works good, but it ends up smelling like hot dogs and it might make you hungry! Try it.
Great tip!
The larger your hole saw, the slower you need to go. Stainless is best drilled as slow as possible, with as much pressure as possible. Lard works well as a lubricant as it will change state and draw heat away from your surface. Drilling holes along the score line gives all the swarf a place to go, otherwise your just milling metal, producing heat, toughening what you are trying to drill, while making your bit more brittle and not lasting long. These things add extra steps to the process, but they make it faster and easier in the long run.
I like your info on brewing and your appreciation for processes.
As always George, fantastic information! Thank you Sir, for your continued support of the community!!!
Thanks! It may be a three year old video, but I am highly inspired by it today!
Great information George I was starting to jones for a new one and was using the library to get my fix sacrificial runs come from soldered copper stills to clean out the flux used when sweating the pieces together. That's why all the cleaning runs to insure that you remove all the flux. Happy New Year and thanks for all of your time and videos to help us all.
George glad to see you are back... HAPPY NEW YEAR
George you make help make my distilling the best it can be. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge!
Thank you George, you're a wealth of knowledge.
Thanks George!
For all your videos, advice and insights . I'm 4 days in on my first run of 6lb corn, 6 sugar, and 10, givrtak 2 h2o. Had to move it 2 days ago cuz I stunk up the house. But it does make the garage smell good though.
I was debating on making a keg still or buying a Brewhouse. I decided on the Brewhaus. Lol if I seen this video one hour ago I probably wouldn't have... Still great info. Thanks George
George I think you should show us how you make beer that would be nice to watch
Luv ya, George. Your videos are interesting, instructional, and damn funny. I use a step bit to cut my holes, cheap bits, and they too eventually fail. Though they leave a circular hole that the next step bit will easily fit.
Buy a carbide hole saw for your next one. Really cuts thru stainless well, the red diablo brand hole saws at Home Depot will do you just fine.
just saw a video about stainless steel, apparently as it heats up the stainless hardens in real time, so the slower the drill the more successful the drilling will be.
This is true. Years ago I was drilling a bunch of stainless steel junction boxes at work to fit cable glands into. My supervisor (boilie turned sparky) told me I was drilling too slow and to give him a go. He went halls to the wall on the trigger and friction drilled a hole similar to the episode of the Simpsons, where homer tore apart 3d space. Burnt the 20mm holesaw out. I had to get crafty to drill it out to a 25mm hole, without a step bit.
Seen people drill and get their bit molten, and change the shape of it.
George, I inch element needs a 1 5/8 hole not a 1 1/8. have a great new year, will be watching you
Yeah, I was wrong. The bulkhead I have needed a 1 3/4 hole.
This is the best solution I was worry about.
thanks for all the info, old but gold
JUST FOR INFO SAKE, AFTER GETTING THE FIRST HOLE DRILLED( WIYJ THR HOLE SAW, TURN THE DRILL OVER AS THAT THE NON-CUTTING PART OF THE SHANK IS IN THE SAW, AND NOT CUTTING A BIGGER HOLE; MAKES FOR A LOT BETTER HOLE SAW CUT.
I've always been told to go very slow speed on the drill with metal makes your bits last a lot longer
especially with a hard metal as SS,, the slower the better, but make sure the drill has the torque to keep the hangups from happening,,
Yes, stainless sink's heat away from the base metal exceptionally well as it hardens due to heat, leaving your bit to take the dammage. SLOW speed with high pressure is how to cut stainless (sans plasma cutter).
Note I said CUT, not drill! It aint wood!
@@Donavin1976 I'm hearing you. I figure 'your favourite lube' heightens drilling capacitance?
Happy new year george from my family to you and your family.
You too
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing Grandpa told me about having to make a sackrafishel batch once and awhile.The store goes that if-n he didn't make some for grandma and
her book club friends once and awhile she would make life kinda hard on grampa. So he would just run some through just to help clean the stuff out.No harm no foul.
@@mrfixit011 LOL. Gradpa was a smart man.
Great video and thank you for all you do for this community!
@Barley and Hops Brewing, you stated that all heating elements are NPT. My understanding is that common heating elements are not NPT but are actually NPS (straight thread as opposed to tapered), which is why a gasket is needed on hot water heaters instead of Teflon tape on the threads. If it works, it works I guess :) #HappyDistilling
Great Video George!! Keep em comin!
George, can't find the description for the bulkhead fitting. Need to know, what and where to order from. Thanks and HAPPY DISTILLING 👍
Awesome as always !! I'm running Missouri Scotch as I type. My Air Still makes it interesting, lol. Can't wait to go big, still wise, so I can make it RIGHT 😉 Happy New Year George, thanks for everything Sir !!
@1:35 "I'm gonna use this 1-1/8" hole saw......."
OK, I'm confused. I-1/8" hole-saw diameter is 1.125". The O.D. of 1" NPT is 1.315"
How is that gonna work? What am I missing/overlooking?
One would think the diameter of the outer threads of the bulkhead assembly would be the minimum hole size.
EDIT: Correct holesaw size is 1-5/8" (per link provided in description)
Sorry, George!
Thank you sir the information you provided is priceless...
Thanks George . Awesome stuff .
Happy New Year George Peter here Camden Australia I love watching your videos dude
Niiice!! I wonder if it leaked due to not de-burring the hole? I've worked a lot with stainless steel and like other people have said use a carbide bit made for stainless and then drill just fast enough to cut (drill SLOW). And just like you did, you use a smaller bit first and step up to bigger bits.. I'm about to drill 2 S.S. kettle for my electric brew sys. Thank you for the tip on the distance off the bottom of the kettle..
Which bulk head did you get? I followed the link but there’s multiple 1” options. I’m going to go back and watch again and see if the specifics were in the video. Ignore this if that’s the case. Great video. Just what I need.
Do you have a video on how your keeping the lid sealed? some type of clamping system?
With stainless, you have to take your time and drill slowly or you will smoke the bit. Don't press hard either it will take a long time,
Thanks George.
Need to go very slow with the hole saw mate :)
rigt: soft metal go fast - hard metal go slow
Thats real nice George.. I might do it some day... but you were wrong about one thing.... Not everybody wants to do a sacrificial run... I sure don't.... i will wash as best i can with soap and water...then run some vinegar..... the get after the bidness at hand.
Miss you and the vids.... hope to see ya back soon
I have a 15" copper bucket filled with sand to become a sand battery and I want to insert one of these water heater elements to heat the sand. I'm looking at 1000 watt one... don't know if I can use one of higher wattage...thinking 1000w might limit my sand from heating to the highest temperature to be safe but optimum heat. Also wondering if I'd need a 3 prong plug for heating it. Any advice would sure be great. I'm a 64 yr old woman with a lot of how to knowledge, just want to create this sand battery to be it's best. I've considered ceramic heating elements, or an electric coil stove top burner...this water heater element seems to impress me the most...not sure of what wattage though. I want to also get a peltier fan to circulate.
Hi George, thanks for all you wisdom and in site. I have a 18.5g vever reflux and I have everything for converting to electric with PID as you like it with the same components except for the 1 inch weldless bulkhead. You gave someone and link in previous comments but that turned out to be for a tri clamp apparatus for something none related. I am sort of stumped now for where to go from here since I have everything else on order for a standard element. Any Ideas would be well appreciated. Thanks George!
If you use steady pressure and low RPMS you will have much more success drilling stainless. Stainless is very easy to work harden and you'll have a hard time getting through. 👍
I was scared of doing this myself until I watched this, do you have a video on connecting the element or what elements to use for a larger still?
Happy new year. Cheers
Show us what you used for a thermostat
Hey George, love your channel. Just a heads up... You want to drill slow when cutting through metal or you will burn through your bits every time.
I don't understand the sacrificial run either. I did a 100% water run, i figured the high temp would be good, run it over what I ever plan too. Made a quart of distilled water that i'll be happy to use in my humidor. Then I did the 50/50 water/vinegar run. If that ain't clean enough then it wont never be! I'm not wasting a drop of that hard earned "likker!" First real run tasted good to me.
I once heard a story about a woman who always cut the ends off her meatloaf before cooking. She did it because her mother did it. Her mother did it because her mother also did it. One day the woman go curious about why they always wasted that meat so she asked her mother. Her mother said, "well, because that's how my mother taught me." So the woman called her grandmother up. She asked her why they always wasted the meat on the ends of her meatloaf. Grandma said, "because we didn't have a pan big enough to fit it and we couldn't afford a new one!"
Some things just get passed on but the reasoning gets forgotten. There is a lot of that in home distilling just because the nature of the world we live in. No a lot got written down and everything was passed on by word of mouth.
Thank you for another good video George. but was watching the video with my 11/2 year old son and he seen the cheese balls under your work bench. so we had to go to the store and buy some cheese balls and he said yummy. lol
Lol kids...
Mine let a jar full of fireflys go in my mothers house. She said, "Tyler you just let a bunch of bugs out in my house!"...
To which he replied, "welcome to your new home!"
...gotta love em!
wow. great video but I went and ordered the 1" bulkhead that you have on your list. I think I made a mistake. lol, once I placed the order it was just shy of $56 Canadian with $42 shipping. I'm hoping they will cancel the order. I need to look around my area. That part isn't worth more the $25-30. But once I have one I am gonna copy your install. Word for word. Great video. Thanks again
I have wanted a couple times and it gets easier and easier
They do similar tri-clamp bulkhead fitting on aliexpress if anybody prefers going down the tri-clamp route
Absolutely. Let's live a little bit dangerously.
The sacrificial run is for first run on copper columns. You don't have to but your finished result may taste funky or be blue in color .
Are you giving george advice?🤔 thats like giving a millionaire 100 dollar bill lol...not necessary he already knows
@@poboy942 not giving advice just stating a fact about a DIY copper column .
I have learned a lot from George . I sure hope he returns to share some more knowledge .
Best of luck to ya .
Could I put two of those in a keg and what would be the easiest somewhat cheapest first PID to start with the control it
Great video, surely that's not a 1 1/8 saw blade? 2 1/8?
I have a 15gal keg I'm thinking of a double heating element , just gotta figure out a digital control unit , where I can shut one off or down after desired temperature.
I suppose there is no easy way to use the bulkheads on the 15 gal beer keg, too hard to get it inside but I'm definitely adding them to my two little pot stills
Where should I mount my thermostat in my Still
Hey George, Happy New Year. A thought came a while back about the cost of running the A/C chiller and the cost of ice. Maybe you could make a couple of runs testing the cost of KWH's on the chiller vs ice? Great video as always.
Hello George, I'm new to the brew! Lol.......... But I'm learning with my dad and wanted to know if we could use an electric 40 gallon water heater tank as a heating element?
Yes you can!
Which waay do we go, George, which waay do we go?
Oh!?
This George actually knows!
Do you have any videos about the next part? Enclosing the electrical connections from the heating element to the plug?
Love the videos. Hope they don't stop coming.
I have 2 kegs a 20L and a 58L. I want to use both with 1 element. I have a 4500w element that's a bit long for the smaller keg. Can I bend the element myself?
Not recommended.
What's the best way to clean the element after a run
George, nice video for those who need that kind of help. I resonantly went Home Depot and Lowes and could only find a 7” long 2000 watt element. I noticed your element was 10” long. Was that a special order?
No special order. I bought mine at a hardware store that sells Richmond brand elements.
Ok thanks I’ll look for that brand.
hi George, how did yo manage to not have any leaks from around the hole? I tried this same thing on a keg but I just couldnt get a seal even with rubber washers etc. thanks
One problem: Heating elements are NPS threaded. Whereas this bulkhead is NPT threaded.
"Let's live dangerously!"........Totally laughed :)
Stainless takes a toll on hole saws
Where can I get the weld less bulkhead 1 inch
Awesome sauce so informative
Awesome, thank you Sir!
What size of elements do you think I should use on my beer barrel I got it second hand and only had one working element Nd some shady contraptions to turn it up Nd down.im new to all this Nd got myself a t500 after the element or the electronic parts gave in but I invested nearly£500 on the beer barrel still I could really do with it working it's got two holes and all the clamps Nd seals for two elements .I need advice on setting it up or trand how to set the electronic parts up ndto be able to turn both or just one element at a time.
Hey George, how do you control the heating of the element? Is there a way to turn it down? Thanks
You are my " go to " guy for all still stuff.... but you said " gotta put on my two wires " . Uhhhh we have to do a little better than that for the non elect. guys. I believe that is a water heater element and it must be 220VAC if I am correct . Would it run on 120VAC though ?
If a guy had a digiboil, would adding a voltage reg like the one keg land sells fix the cycling of the of the elements while trying to distill? I’d rather not crack the case to mod if the regulator would work.
Do you have any videos that show how to plug in something like this and keep it automated to stay the right temperature? I cant find a good simple tutorial anywhere and the t500 is driving me nuts, even with the water flow regulator
Looks like you did high speed, and heatreated the side of the pot. Making it even harder to drill.
Hello George,:. @Barley and Hops Brewing . I have a 50 ltr still ,its the Chinees football you have tested. Can you help me with the right heating element for this still and the thing that clambs so it won',t leak please? I like to drill a whole in it, but dont know where i can order the right tools to close the still
Hope you can help me with a site where i can order that.
Greetz, Nico from Holland.
The kettle is circular, not flat. How do you seal a flat bulkhead in a circular kettle?
George, I am having a hard time finding a 1" stainless bulkhead. Went to your link and they only show 1/2 & 3/4"? Any idea where I could find a one inch? Thanks, love your videos
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076CJTRJ1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks George. I went to your link and the only size bulkhead I can find does not have an inside thread of 1 inch. I tried other places like amazon and the same results. any suggestions?
You are awesome! Thank you so much.
Hey George love your videos do you have a video on installing the thermocouple for the pid controller?
Yes he has several videos and series on it
Nice office
George I Home brew and I’ve seen you use a heat belt on a still. I can’t seem to find that video . Can you send me a link to that?
no temperature probe?
Hey wondering how many watts should the element be sized for? My local hardware store has 1500/120 and 3000/240
Another amazing video, any link to where you bought the hole cutters and sizes?
Home Depot has them.
bulkhead part $15 Amazon US, $41 at Amazon in Canada. Grrrrr, I get so mad at the price gouging in Canada.
Enjoying ur videos from Norway..would love to make myself another nice still, but since I'm European I struggle with this damn inches hehe 😂 1/8 inch hole saw to make hole for the heat element.. Tried to convert it to mm..but I got 3 mm..that can't be right.. must be 30 mm??
I am looking into this kind of setup but I need the whole setup element power supply and I want to do it the way you did in this video looking for a 110 setup can you help me out here?
I ordered one of these but it is a 1/2 inch i think i ordered the wrong one no option for 1 inch help
Yay! I was having withdrawls!
I can't find the low prices you give for the bulkhead.
What about the seals on that bulkhead?
you're drill didn't go through because you generated too much heat and hardened the steel. Go with a low RPM and do it on and off to avoid creating extra heat. takes time but it will go through much easier.
Nice job George! Question: What still is that you installed the heat into and what is its cost? Thanks for the info.
will the EZ Seal Weld-less Bulkhead For A Heating Element Fight In The Neck Of A beer Keg I Just Don't Trust Drilling And Tapping it, tyvm
I took a picture of the 1" weldless bulkhead and scaled it in a CAD program. After scaling i measured the flange area. If all is correct the flange should be 1.940" in diameter. So if it fit it would be a tight fit.
Is there a plug that exist for these after you install if you wanna not use the element after ?