Hi George Next time you will be drilling in stainless steel, use low speed on the drill and high pressure. high speed makes the steel hot and when stainless steel gets hot then it gets even harder. So to save your drills and hole saws, oil low speed andhigh pressure. Sincerely Zibbe1000
Thanks George, I know this is an older video but its just as valuable to me today as it was last year to all who saw it and it will remain valuable for many years just like all your videos ... thank you for your patients and for sharing a wealth of knowledge with all who would listen..God Bless
The larger your hole saw, the slower you need to go. Stainless is best drilled as slow as possible, with as much pressure as possible. Lard works well as a lubricant as it will change state and draw heat away from your surface. Drilling holes along the score line gives all the swarf a place to go, otherwise your just milling metal, producing heat, toughening what you are trying to drill, while making your bit more brittle and not lasting long. These things add extra steps to the process, but they make it faster and easier in the long run. I like your info on brewing and your appreciation for processes.
Thanks George. Great video! We drill a lot of stainless steel boxes at work. I like to use mustard to help drill them out. It works good, but it ends up smelling like hot dogs and it might make you hungry! Try it.
I m happy you mention : no sacrificial run!!! Cuz i just got my self a 100L Still. and that is because i hate loosing time with small 5Gal. Stills TIME is precious
Thanks George! For all your videos, advice and insights . I'm 4 days in on my first run of 6lb corn, 6 sugar, and 10, givrtak 2 h2o. Had to move it 2 days ago cuz I stunk up the house. But it does make the garage smell good though.
I was debating on making a keg still or buying a Brewhouse. I decided on the Brewhaus. Lol if I seen this video one hour ago I probably wouldn't have... Still great info. Thanks George
Luv ya, George. Your videos are interesting, instructional, and damn funny. I use a step bit to cut my holes, cheap bits, and they too eventually fail. Though they leave a circular hole that the next step bit will easily fit.
Great information George I was starting to jones for a new one and was using the library to get my fix sacrificial runs come from soldered copper stills to clean out the flux used when sweating the pieces together. That's why all the cleaning runs to insure that you remove all the flux. Happy New Year and thanks for all of your time and videos to help us all.
just saw a video about stainless steel, apparently as it heats up the stainless hardens in real time, so the slower the drill the more successful the drilling will be.
This is true. Years ago I was drilling a bunch of stainless steel junction boxes at work to fit cable glands into. My supervisor (boilie turned sparky) told me I was drilling too slow and to give him a go. He went halls to the wall on the trigger and friction drilled a hole similar to the episode of the Simpsons, where homer tore apart 3d space. Burnt the 20mm holesaw out. I had to get crafty to drill it out to a 25mm hole, without a step bit. Seen people drill and get their bit molten, and change the shape of it.
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing Grandpa told me about having to make a sackrafishel batch once and awhile.The store goes that if-n he didn't make some for grandma and her book club friends once and awhile she would make life kinda hard on grampa. So he would just run some through just to help clean the stuff out.No harm no foul.
Thats real nice George.. I might do it some day... but you were wrong about one thing.... Not everybody wants to do a sacrificial run... I sure don't.... i will wash as best i can with soap and water...then run some vinegar..... the get after the bidness at hand. Miss you and the vids.... hope to see ya back soon
Great video and thank you for all you do for this community! @Barley and Hops Brewing, you stated that all heating elements are NPT. My understanding is that common heating elements are not NPT but are actually NPS (straight thread as opposed to tapered), which is why a gasket is needed on hot water heaters instead of Teflon tape on the threads. If it works, it works I guess :) #HappyDistilling
Yes, stainless sink's heat away from the base metal exceptionally well as it hardens due to heat, leaving your bit to take the dammage. SLOW speed with high pressure is how to cut stainless (sans plasma cutter). Note I said CUT, not drill! It aint wood!
Awesome as always !! I'm running Missouri Scotch as I type. My Air Still makes it interesting, lol. Can't wait to go big, still wise, so I can make it RIGHT 😉 Happy New Year George, thanks for everything Sir !!
Thank you for another good video George. but was watching the video with my 11/2 year old son and he seen the cheese balls under your work bench. so we had to go to the store and buy some cheese balls and he said yummy. lol
Lol kids... Mine let a jar full of fireflys go in my mothers house. She said, "Tyler you just let a bunch of bugs out in my house!"... To which he replied, "welcome to your new home!" ...gotta love em!
wow. great video but I went and ordered the 1" bulkhead that you have on your list. I think I made a mistake. lol, once I placed the order it was just shy of $56 Canadian with $42 shipping. I'm hoping they will cancel the order. I need to look around my area. That part isn't worth more the $25-30. But once I have one I am gonna copy your install. Word for word. Great video. Thanks again
JUST FOR INFO SAKE, AFTER GETTING THE FIRST HOLE DRILLED( WIYJ THR HOLE SAW, TURN THE DRILL OVER AS THAT THE NON-CUTTING PART OF THE SHANK IS IN THE SAW, AND NOT CUTTING A BIGGER HOLE; MAKES FOR A LOT BETTER HOLE SAW CUT.
If you use steady pressure and low RPMS you will have much more success drilling stainless. Stainless is very easy to work harden and you'll have a hard time getting through. 👍
2.8K views and only 128 likes??? COME ON PEOPLE! It only takes a tap or a click to like this dude's video! Don't just take the information and run! Imagine running a business and taking time to give free info to the masses even if they purchase elsewhere? That's passion! That's how you know this is a gentleman you need to LIKE AND FOLLOW !!!
@1:35 "I'm gonna use this 1-1/8" hole saw......." OK, I'm confused. I-1/8" hole-saw diameter is 1.125". The O.D. of 1" NPT is 1.315" How is that gonna work? What am I missing/overlooking? One would think the diameter of the outer threads of the bulkhead assembly would be the minimum hole size. EDIT: Correct holesaw size is 1-5/8" (per link provided in description) Sorry, George!
I don't understand the sacrificial run either. I did a 100% water run, i figured the high temp would be good, run it over what I ever plan too. Made a quart of distilled water that i'll be happy to use in my humidor. Then I did the 50/50 water/vinegar run. If that ain't clean enough then it wont never be! I'm not wasting a drop of that hard earned "likker!" First real run tasted good to me. I once heard a story about a woman who always cut the ends off her meatloaf before cooking. She did it because her mother did it. Her mother did it because her mother also did it. One day the woman go curious about why they always wasted that meat so she asked her mother. Her mother said, "well, because that's how my mother taught me." So the woman called her grandmother up. She asked her why they always wasted the meat on the ends of her meatloaf. Grandma said, "because we didn't have a pan big enough to fit it and we couldn't afford a new one!" Some things just get passed on but the reasoning gets forgotten. There is a lot of that in home distilling just because the nature of the world we live in. No a lot got written down and everything was passed on by word of mouth.
Which bulk head did you get? I followed the link but there’s multiple 1” options. I’m going to go back and watch again and see if the specifics were in the video. Ignore this if that’s the case. Great video. Just what I need.
Niiice!! I wonder if it leaked due to not de-burring the hole? I've worked a lot with stainless steel and like other people have said use a carbide bit made for stainless and then drill just fast enough to cut (drill SLOW). And just like you did, you use a smaller bit first and step up to bigger bits.. I'm about to drill 2 S.S. kettle for my electric brew sys. Thank you for the tip on the distance off the bottom of the kettle..
Hey George, Happy New Year. A thought came a while back about the cost of running the A/C chiller and the cost of ice. Maybe you could make a couple of runs testing the cost of KWH's on the chiller vs ice? Great video as always.
@@poboy942 not giving advice just stating a fact about a DIY copper column . I have learned a lot from George . I sure hope he returns to share some more knowledge . Best of luck to ya .
you're drill didn't go through because you generated too much heat and hardened the steel. Go with a low RPM and do it on and off to avoid creating extra heat. takes time but it will go through much easier.
I suppose there is no easy way to use the bulkheads on the 15 gal beer keg, too hard to get it inside but I'm definitely adding them to my two little pot stills
Hi George, thanks for all you wisdom and in site. I have a 18.5g vever reflux and I have everything for converting to electric with PID as you like it with the same components except for the 1 inch weldless bulkhead. You gave someone and link in previous comments but that turned out to be for a tri clamp apparatus for something none related. I am sort of stumped now for where to go from here since I have everything else on order for a standard element. Any Ideas would be well appreciated. Thanks George!
I have a 15gal keg I'm thinking of a double heating element , just gotta figure out a digital control unit , where I can shut one off or down after desired temperature.
when you use Bi-metal hole saws you are better off using what I call "pulse method" pull the trigger for a count off "one, one thousand" then release and pull the trigger again, so on till it cuts through the saw will last a lot longer. for this size of hole through Stainless your speed should be about 200 rpm, most hand drills will not go that slow that why you can only get a few holes out off one saw. PLanning on getting a heater element but need new still first and need job so I can pay (or make) it. I have only had stainless steel stills started with a S/S pressure cooker converted to a pot still, then made my own S/S pot still in work (40+ years welder). and I have only cleaned my with hot soapy water, and after that I sometimes run the still with just water in it only when I am running low on distilled water.
George, nice video for those who need that kind of help. I resonantly went Home Depot and Lowes and could only find a 7” long 2000 watt element. I noticed your element was 10” long. Was that a special order?
You are my " go to " guy for all still stuff.... but you said " gotta put on my two wires " . Uhhhh we have to do a little better than that for the non elect. guys. I believe that is a water heater element and it must be 220VAC if I am correct . Would it run on 120VAC though ?
hi George, how did yo manage to not have any leaks from around the hole? I tried this same thing on a keg but I just couldnt get a seal even with rubber washers etc. thanks
Hello George,:. @Barley and Hops Brewing . I have a 50 ltr still ,its the Chinees football you have tested. Can you help me with the right heating element for this still and the thing that clambs so it won',t leak please? I like to drill a whole in it, but dont know where i can order the right tools to close the still Hope you can help me with a site where i can order that. Greetz, Nico from Holland.
If a guy had a digiboil, would adding a voltage reg like the one keg land sells fix the cycling of the of the elements while trying to distill? I’d rather not crack the case to mod if the regulator would work.
Thanks George!! With the wiring, how do you insulate it properly? Is it as simple as screwing/attaching the wires with a plug on the other end? I'm a bit unsure about elements with two contacts only (pos and neg)....where does the earth run? Cheers!
Love the videos. Hope they don't stop coming. I have 2 kegs a 20L and a 58L. I want to use both with 1 element. I have a 4500w element that's a bit long for the smaller keg. Can I bend the element myself?
What size of elements do you think I should use on my beer barrel I got it second hand and only had one working element Nd some shady contraptions to turn it up Nd down.im new to all this Nd got myself a t500 after the element or the electronic parts gave in but I invested nearly£500 on the beer barrel still I could really do with it working it's got two holes and all the clamps Nd seals for two elements .I need advice on setting it up or trand how to set the electronic parts up ndto be able to turn both or just one element at a time.
Hello George, I'm new to the brew! Lol.......... But I'm learning with my dad and wanted to know if we could use an electric 40 gallon water heater tank as a heating element?
Do you have any videos that show how to plug in something like this and keep it automated to stay the right temperature? I cant find a good simple tutorial anywhere and the t500 is driving me nuts, even with the water flow regulator
Thanks George. I went to your link and the only size bulkhead I can find does not have an inside thread of 1 inch. I tried other places like amazon and the same results. any suggestions?
George, I am having a hard time finding a 1" stainless bulkhead. Went to your link and they only show 1/2 & 3/4"? Any idea where I could find a one inch? Thanks, love your videos
I am looking into this kind of setup but I need the whole setup element power supply and I want to do it the way you did in this video looking for a 110 setup can you help me out here?
so i discover this looking around to find elements if your trying to save money scrap yard and steal them out of a 50 gallon hot water heater. instead of paying 35 too 80 bucks for a 220 one you can salvage 220 ones from there but salvage like 6 of them from scrap yard .. so you know you have ones that work .. So 6 cost me 10 bucks
Hi George
Next time you will be drilling in stainless steel, use low speed on the drill and high pressure.
high speed makes the steel hot and when stainless steel gets hot then it gets even harder.
So to save your drills and hole saws, oil low speed andhigh pressure.
Sincerely Zibbe1000
Thanks George, I know this is an older video but its just as valuable to me today as it was last year to all who saw it and it will remain valuable for many years just like all your videos ... thank you for your patients and for sharing a wealth of knowledge with all who would listen..God Bless
The larger your hole saw, the slower you need to go. Stainless is best drilled as slow as possible, with as much pressure as possible. Lard works well as a lubricant as it will change state and draw heat away from your surface. Drilling holes along the score line gives all the swarf a place to go, otherwise your just milling metal, producing heat, toughening what you are trying to drill, while making your bit more brittle and not lasting long. These things add extra steps to the process, but they make it faster and easier in the long run.
I like your info on brewing and your appreciation for processes.
Thanks George. Great video! We drill a lot of stainless steel boxes at work. I like to use mustard to help drill them out. It works good, but it ends up smelling like hot dogs and it might make you hungry! Try it.
Great tip!
I love how you explain everything, making it super easy for a beginner to understand. Appreciate the time spent doing these educational videos. ❤
I m happy you mention : no sacrificial run!!! Cuz i just got my self a 100L Still. and that is because i hate loosing time with small 5Gal. Stills TIME is precious
As always George, fantastic information! Thank you Sir, for your continued support of the community!!!
Thanks! It may be a three year old video, but I am highly inspired by it today!
Thank you George, you're a wealth of knowledge.
Thanks George!
For all your videos, advice and insights . I'm 4 days in on my first run of 6lb corn, 6 sugar, and 10, givrtak 2 h2o. Had to move it 2 days ago cuz I stunk up the house. But it does make the garage smell good though.
I was debating on making a keg still or buying a Brewhouse. I decided on the Brewhaus. Lol if I seen this video one hour ago I probably wouldn't have... Still great info. Thanks George
Luv ya, George. Your videos are interesting, instructional, and damn funny. I use a step bit to cut my holes, cheap bits, and they too eventually fail. Though they leave a circular hole that the next step bit will easily fit.
George you make help make my distilling the best it can be. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge!
George glad to see you are back... HAPPY NEW YEAR
Great information George I was starting to jones for a new one and was using the library to get my fix sacrificial runs come from soldered copper stills to clean out the flux used when sweating the pieces together. That's why all the cleaning runs to insure that you remove all the flux. Happy New Year and thanks for all of your time and videos to help us all.
George I think you should show us how you make beer that would be nice to watch
Thank you sir the information you provided is priceless...
just saw a video about stainless steel, apparently as it heats up the stainless hardens in real time, so the slower the drill the more successful the drilling will be.
This is true. Years ago I was drilling a bunch of stainless steel junction boxes at work to fit cable glands into. My supervisor (boilie turned sparky) told me I was drilling too slow and to give him a go. He went halls to the wall on the trigger and friction drilled a hole similar to the episode of the Simpsons, where homer tore apart 3d space. Burnt the 20mm holesaw out. I had to get crafty to drill it out to a 25mm hole, without a step bit.
Seen people drill and get their bit molten, and change the shape of it.
Happy new year george from my family to you and your family.
You too
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing Grandpa told me about having to make a sackrafishel batch once and awhile.The store goes that if-n he didn't make some for grandma and
her book club friends once and awhile she would make life kinda hard on grampa. So he would just run some through just to help clean the stuff out.No harm no foul.
@@mrfixit011 LOL. Gradpa was a smart man.
Thats real nice George.. I might do it some day... but you were wrong about one thing.... Not everybody wants to do a sacrificial run... I sure don't.... i will wash as best i can with soap and water...then run some vinegar..... the get after the bidness at hand.
Miss you and the vids.... hope to see ya back soon
thanks for all the info, old but gold
George, I inch element needs a 1 5/8 hole not a 1 1/8. have a great new year, will be watching you
Yeah, I was wrong. The bulkhead I have needed a 1 3/4 hole.
Great Video George!! Keep em comin!
Great video and thank you for all you do for this community!
@Barley and Hops Brewing, you stated that all heating elements are NPT. My understanding is that common heating elements are not NPT but are actually NPS (straight thread as opposed to tapered), which is why a gasket is needed on hot water heaters instead of Teflon tape on the threads. If it works, it works I guess :) #HappyDistilling
This is the best solution I was worry about.
Thanks George.
Buy a carbide hole saw for your next one. Really cuts thru stainless well, the red diablo brand hole saws at Home Depot will do you just fine.
I've always been told to go very slow speed on the drill with metal makes your bits last a lot longer
especially with a hard metal as SS,, the slower the better, but make sure the drill has the torque to keep the hangups from happening,,
Yes, stainless sink's heat away from the base metal exceptionally well as it hardens due to heat, leaving your bit to take the dammage. SLOW speed with high pressure is how to cut stainless (sans plasma cutter).
Note I said CUT, not drill! It aint wood!
@@Donavin1976 I'm hearing you. I figure 'your favourite lube' heightens drilling capacitance?
Happy New Year George Peter here Camden Australia I love watching your videos dude
Awesome as always !! I'm running Missouri Scotch as I type. My Air Still makes it interesting, lol. Can't wait to go big, still wise, so I can make it RIGHT 😉 Happy New Year George, thanks for everything Sir !!
Thanks George . Awesome stuff .
Thank you for another good video George. but was watching the video with my 11/2 year old son and he seen the cheese balls under your work bench. so we had to go to the store and buy some cheese balls and he said yummy. lol
Lol kids...
Mine let a jar full of fireflys go in my mothers house. She said, "Tyler you just let a bunch of bugs out in my house!"...
To which he replied, "welcome to your new home!"
...gotta love em!
I have wanted a couple times and it gets easier and easier
"Let's live dangerously!"........Totally laughed :)
wow. great video but I went and ordered the 1" bulkhead that you have on your list. I think I made a mistake. lol, once I placed the order it was just shy of $56 Canadian with $42 shipping. I'm hoping they will cancel the order. I need to look around my area. That part isn't worth more the $25-30. But once I have one I am gonna copy your install. Word for word. Great video. Thanks again
JUST FOR INFO SAKE, AFTER GETTING THE FIRST HOLE DRILLED( WIYJ THR HOLE SAW, TURN THE DRILL OVER AS THAT THE NON-CUTTING PART OF THE SHANK IS IN THE SAW, AND NOT CUTTING A BIGGER HOLE; MAKES FOR A LOT BETTER HOLE SAW CUT.
Need to go very slow with the hole saw mate :)
rigt: soft metal go fast - hard metal go slow
Do you have a video on how your keeping the lid sealed? some type of clamping system?
If you use steady pressure and low RPMS you will have much more success drilling stainless. Stainless is very easy to work harden and you'll have a hard time getting through. 👍
2.8K views and only 128 likes???
COME ON PEOPLE!
It only takes a tap or a click to like this dude's video!
Don't just take the information and run!
Imagine running a business and taking time to give free info to the masses even if they purchase elsewhere?
That's passion! That's how you know this is a gentleman you need to
LIKE AND FOLLOW !!!
Thank you. Very well said.
@1:35 "I'm gonna use this 1-1/8" hole saw......."
OK, I'm confused. I-1/8" hole-saw diameter is 1.125". The O.D. of 1" NPT is 1.315"
How is that gonna work? What am I missing/overlooking?
One would think the diameter of the outer threads of the bulkhead assembly would be the minimum hole size.
EDIT: Correct holesaw size is 1-5/8" (per link provided in description)
Sorry, George!
Awesome sauce so informative
Which waay do we go, George, which waay do we go?
Oh!?
This George actually knows!
I don't understand the sacrificial run either. I did a 100% water run, i figured the high temp would be good, run it over what I ever plan too. Made a quart of distilled water that i'll be happy to use in my humidor. Then I did the 50/50 water/vinegar run. If that ain't clean enough then it wont never be! I'm not wasting a drop of that hard earned "likker!" First real run tasted good to me.
I once heard a story about a woman who always cut the ends off her meatloaf before cooking. She did it because her mother did it. Her mother did it because her mother also did it. One day the woman go curious about why they always wasted that meat so she asked her mother. Her mother said, "well, because that's how my mother taught me." So the woman called her grandmother up. She asked her why they always wasted the meat on the ends of her meatloaf. Grandma said, "because we didn't have a pan big enough to fit it and we couldn't afford a new one!"
Some things just get passed on but the reasoning gets forgotten. There is a lot of that in home distilling just because the nature of the world we live in. No a lot got written down and everything was passed on by word of mouth.
They do similar tri-clamp bulkhead fitting on aliexpress if anybody prefers going down the tri-clamp route
Which bulk head did you get? I followed the link but there’s multiple 1” options. I’m going to go back and watch again and see if the specifics were in the video. Ignore this if that’s the case. Great video. Just what I need.
Happy new year. Cheers
With stainless, you have to take your time and drill slowly or you will smoke the bit. Don't press hard either it will take a long time,
George, can't find the description for the bulkhead fitting. Need to know, what and where to order from. Thanks and HAPPY DISTILLING 👍
Awesome, thank you Sir!
Niiice!! I wonder if it leaked due to not de-burring the hole? I've worked a lot with stainless steel and like other people have said use a carbide bit made for stainless and then drill just fast enough to cut (drill SLOW). And just like you did, you use a smaller bit first and step up to bigger bits.. I'm about to drill 2 S.S. kettle for my electric brew sys. Thank you for the tip on the distance off the bottom of the kettle..
Absolutely. Let's live a little bit dangerously.
You are awesome! Thank you so much.
Hey George, Happy New Year. A thought came a while back about the cost of running the A/C chiller and the cost of ice. Maybe you could make a couple of runs testing the cost of KWH's on the chiller vs ice? Great video as always.
Yay! I was having withdrawls!
The sacrificial run is for first run on copper columns. You don't have to but your finished result may taste funky or be blue in color .
Are you giving george advice?🤔 thats like giving a millionaire 100 dollar bill lol...not necessary he already knows
@@poboy942 not giving advice just stating a fact about a DIY copper column .
I have learned a lot from George . I sure hope he returns to share some more knowledge .
Best of luck to ya .
Stainless takes a toll on hole saws
Looks like you did high speed, and heatreated the side of the pot. Making it even harder to drill.
you're drill didn't go through because you generated too much heat and hardened the steel. Go with a low RPM and do it on and off to avoid creating extra heat. takes time but it will go through much easier.
Show us what you used for a thermostat
I was scared of doing this myself until I watched this, do you have a video on connecting the element or what elements to use for a larger still?
Nice office
Great video, surely that's not a 1 1/8 saw blade? 2 1/8?
I suppose there is no easy way to use the bulkheads on the 15 gal beer keg, too hard to get it inside but I'm definitely adding them to my two little pot stills
Hi George, thanks for all you wisdom and in site. I have a 18.5g vever reflux and I have everything for converting to electric with PID as you like it with the same components except for the 1 inch weldless bulkhead. You gave someone and link in previous comments but that turned out to be for a tri clamp apparatus for something none related. I am sort of stumped now for where to go from here since I have everything else on order for a standard element. Any Ideas would be well appreciated. Thanks George!
Could I put two of those in a keg and what would be the easiest somewhat cheapest first PID to start with the control it
Hey George, love your channel. Just a heads up... You want to drill slow when cutting through metal or you will burn through your bits every time.
I have a 15gal keg I'm thinking of a double heating element , just gotta figure out a digital control unit , where I can shut one off or down after desired temperature.
when you use Bi-metal hole saws you are better off using what I call "pulse method" pull the trigger for a count off "one, one thousand" then release and pull the trigger again, so on till it cuts through
the saw will last a lot longer.
for this size of hole through Stainless your speed should be about 200 rpm, most hand drills will not go that slow that why you can only get a few holes out off one saw.
PLanning on getting a heater element but need new still first and need job so I can pay (or make) it.
I have only had stainless steel stills started with a S/S pressure cooker converted to a pot still, then made my own S/S pot still in work (40+ years welder). and I have only cleaned my with hot soapy water, and after that I sometimes run the still with just water in it only when I am running low on distilled water.
Thanks. I'll use that method next time
George, nice video for those who need that kind of help. I resonantly went Home Depot and Lowes and could only find a 7” long 2000 watt element. I noticed your element was 10” long. Was that a special order?
No special order. I bought mine at a hardware store that sells Richmond brand elements.
Ok thanks I’ll look for that brand.
Awesome bud
bulkhead part $15 Amazon US, $41 at Amazon in Canada. Grrrrr, I get so mad at the price gouging in Canada.
Where should I mount my thermostat in my Still
You are my " go to " guy for all still stuff.... but you said " gotta put on my two wires " . Uhhhh we have to do a little better than that for the non elect. guys. I believe that is a water heater element and it must be 220VAC if I am correct . Would it run on 120VAC though ?
hi George, how did yo manage to not have any leaks from around the hole? I tried this same thing on a keg but I just couldnt get a seal even with rubber washers etc. thanks
Hello George,:. @Barley and Hops Brewing . I have a 50 ltr still ,its the Chinees football you have tested. Can you help me with the right heating element for this still and the thing that clambs so it won',t leak please? I like to drill a whole in it, but dont know where i can order the right tools to close the still
Hope you can help me with a site where i can order that.
Greetz, Nico from Holland.
If a guy had a digiboil, would adding a voltage reg like the one keg land sells fix the cycling of the of the elements while trying to distill? I’d rather not crack the case to mod if the regulator would work.
Thanks George!! With the wiring, how do you insulate it properly? Is it as simple as screwing/attaching the wires with a plug on the other end? I'm a bit unsure about elements with two contacts only (pos and neg)....where does the earth run? Cheers!
Love the videos. Hope they don't stop coming.
I have 2 kegs a 20L and a 58L. I want to use both with 1 element. I have a 4500w element that's a bit long for the smaller keg. Can I bend the element myself?
Not recommended.
You need a good hole saw.
What's the best way to clean the element after a run
What size of elements do you think I should use on my beer barrel I got it second hand and only had one working element Nd some shady contraptions to turn it up Nd down.im new to all this Nd got myself a t500 after the element or the electronic parts gave in but I invested nearly£500 on the beer barrel still I could really do with it working it's got two holes and all the clamps Nd seals for two elements .I need advice on setting it up or trand how to set the electronic parts up ndto be able to turn both or just one element at a time.
Hello George, I'm new to the brew! Lol.......... But I'm learning with my dad and wanted to know if we could use an electric 40 gallon water heater tank as a heating element?
Yes you can!
Hey George, how do you control the heating of the element? Is there a way to turn it down? Thanks
Where can I get the weld less bulkhead 1 inch
big drill was way to fast for cutting steel with that holesaw. run them slow and use oil on ferrous metals they will last a long time.
Do you have any videos that show how to plug in something like this and keep it automated to stay the right temperature? I cant find a good simple tutorial anywhere and the t500 is driving me nuts, even with the water flow regulator
Thanks George. I went to your link and the only size bulkhead I can find does not have an inside thread of 1 inch. I tried other places like amazon and the same results. any suggestions?
Do you have any videos about the next part? Enclosing the electrical connections from the heating element to the plug?
The kettle is circular, not flat. How do you seal a flat bulkhead in a circular kettle?
George, I am having a hard time finding a 1" stainless bulkhead. Went to your link and they only show 1/2 & 3/4"? Any idea where I could find a one inch? Thanks, love your videos
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076CJTRJ1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Great video as always George. Can you do one on adding an element to a beer keg still?
Thom, you pretty much have to weld a fitting on those. Kinda hard to get your hand through that 2" hole in the top LOL
@@charlesmccoy5857 he did a pony keg once and tapped the thread
www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15rsf.htm
@@shaunkummer249 Yep, that will work, luckily for me I had a buddy with a tig welder and had him weld these fittings on mine.
Hey wondering how many watts should the element be sized for? My local hardware store has 1500/120 and 3000/240
no temperature probe?
I am looking into this kind of setup but I need the whole setup element power supply and I want to do it the way you did in this video looking for a 110 setup can you help me out here?
what size bulkhead are you using?
What about the seals on that bulkhead?
so i discover this looking around to find elements if your trying to save money scrap yard and steal them out of a 50 gallon hot water heater. instead of paying 35 too 80 bucks for a 220 one you can salvage 220 ones from there but salvage like 6 of them from scrap yard .. so you know you have ones that work .. So 6 cost me 10 bucks
I ordered one of these but it is a 1/2 inch i think i ordered the wrong one no option for 1 inch help
Hey George love your videos do you have a video on installing the thermocouple for the pid controller?
Yes he has several videos and series on it