Part one of two installing a heater core in a 2003 Ford Ranger. Removing the dash... www.kentuckycurmudgeon.wordpress.com bob.marcum.9 bobmarcum1 As always...
Hey I just want to say thanks! I put up RUclips videos also, and it irritates the crap out of me when people don’t know how to edit out the “uhhhh, ermmm, ramble, ramble, ramble” and then also have them doing the same steps over and over again. Your video is not that. I am about to go replace my heater core in my 2003. I stumbled on this video and it’s perfect! You show the actual step-by-step with nothing missing and nothing extra. All I need!
Great video. 07 Ranger XLT 3liter here. That pinch nut is a bastard! Got the bolt off but cant seem to get it to release. So far this is where i am at with this project. Fingers crossed, I have about 2 more days to get it done!
I noticed that there are some steps missing I think. For example, sliding the linkage off of the gearshift selector. Also it appears as though there are many electrical connectors that shod be taken off that dont seem to be mentioned. Am I wrong or is my 07 XLT 3.0 just that different??? If so I would recomend maybe mentioning that this is not step by step so someone doesnt go too far down the rabit hole and then has no idea how to proceed. Like when you took out the air bag you said there were other connectors but that you would get back to them and never did. Even so this is a great video!!!
I have a 2003 Ford Ranger with the 3.0 and just replaced my heater core today after viewing this video. The only step that wasn't necessary on my vehicle was removing the passenger side inner fender well. There was no bolt there. Thanks for all the info though. It helped a lot.
Best instructional video! Didn’t do everything he did, but the clarity of his instructions made it super easy to figure out what I needed to do. Not only for heater core replacement, if you need to access anything in the dash, this is an excellent video.
Great video! Just finished my 2000 Ranger heater core replacement and all's well so far. Couldn't have done it without this resource. I managed it without disconnecting the wire bundle at the firewall or the driver's sidekick panel, but otherwise all per the video. ;) Definitely not a job for the faint of heart! Cheers!
I watched your video about 4 times and each time I learned some things that were somewhat different-- I have a Ranger 4x4 with extended cab and Air conditioner -- that one bolt behind the engine was a real duzzy to get to-- I took two 7/16 wrenches and bolted then together to be able to reach that one nut-- it was that or take off the intake manifold to get axes-- but that worked to get the lower nut off the firewall-- but I do thank you because several videos showed bits and pieces-- the worst one was one that literally destroyed things and then taped them back together-- thank you for being careful and complete-- and a thumbs up for you-- Richard Nolan
I've got a 06 Ranger and I have to say this video is fantastic. Just an fyi, on the 06 models you don't have to move the power distribution box to access the wire that go thru the firewall...there's actually a plug under the dash. Also you don't need to pull the wheel well cover to access that bolt,it's done from inside the cab. After pulling back the evaporate there's a nut you'll need to remove and where the two were next to the evaporater (right side), there's two more nuts....they double nutted those two studs. The video really steps you thru the complete process....GREAT JOB!
Completed the job on my 07 Ranger thanks to your comment John Venegas. I was able to just disconnect the one connector under the dash, instead of the two through the fire wall. Also ran across the other three nuts behind the evaporator housing after you pull it back. Did not have to go through fender either but just got the one nut under the dash. Thank you again for you comment, helped me out a bunch.
I'm in the process of doing my Ranger heater core. Chose your tutorial to follow. Going great so far. Thanks for the precise yet understandable way in which to show how to do this. Dash is now released, and tomorrow I get to see what lies underneath. Hope the next phase goes as well as phase 1.
Great video. I guess I'll be doing my 2008 Ranger in the next few weeks. Are you sure the tailgate doesn't have to come off, too. Yikes! That's a lot stuff to take out!
I've been trying to decide if I want to do this myself or take it to the shop on my 2002. I think with the two videos you made I'm going to give it a go myself. Wish me luck!
+McCord Grimes you are most welcome, I made the video because there wasn't a more detailed one at the time. Good luck in your replacement process. If you have further questions, I'll be glad to help if I can.
Nick, don’t know...thinking not as long as you pull the shifter back when pulling the dash out. I think it’s not that difficult to release the shifter if need be. Pretty sure it’s a top load shifter the can be released by loosening a captive nut. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍
Just completed the job on my 2007 Ford Ranger. Thank you so much! I only attempted it because of your video. I wrote up the instructions after watching the two videos so I could just look at a piece of paper while doing the job. Again, thank you so much! You saved me mucho dinero. Instructions here if anyone is interested: docs.google.com/document/d/1UW6glVgaMHgFcTlk40BgtZqbpbBgMRjqUUbCngLw1M8/edit
While I watched this. I noticed you did several things that did NOT need to be done, and one of them could cost you more in repairs. 1. you don't need to remove all that trim on the drivers and passenger side. The dash will move around it. You only need to remove the kick panel from the passenger side, and that can be done without removing any other trim panels. 2. DO NOT REMOVE THE AIRBAGS!!!!! It's not required and definitely NOT recommended for the weekend warrior mechanic. 3. DO NOT disconnect the steering column shaft. Disconnect the column from the dash and let it down. Taking the shaft loose and NOT locking the steering wheel risks damage to the clock spring, which can cause steering wheel buttons to not work and/or airbag problems. So don't do it. Just take the column loose from the dash. Suiffice to say, I would follow the video by Valley Mobile Automotive, since they are a professional and show the correct procedure for this job.
On my XLT 2000 there is no nut in wheel well, there is a nut in the cabin in the right lower corner and extra nut behind condenser between first and second nut shown in the video but lower about 2". There are few wires and connectors which have to be disconnected before dropping dashboard on the left and right side and vacuum lines and temp control mechanism on top of the air box
when putting it dashboard back I used cardboard wedged under right corner to lift the left side to position and install first bolt under the windshield after that it was easy. I forgot snap in the temp control module on top of the box but was able to snick it in and rotate the nob to be able to do it. The heat shield of the computer was jamming the box but I just press it upwards with screwdriver; doesn't have to be removed
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Hey I just want to say thanks! I put up RUclips videos also, and it irritates the crap out of me when people don’t know how to edit out the “uhhhh, ermmm, ramble, ramble, ramble” and then also have them doing the same steps over and over again. Your video is not that. I am about to go replace my heater core in my 2003. I stumbled on this video and it’s perfect! You show the actual step-by-step with nothing missing and nothing extra. All I need!
Thanks for taking the time to comment. Glad I could be of service.
Except for 90% of the information that is missing from this video you’re about as stupid as he is
Great video. 07 Ranger XLT 3liter here. That pinch nut is a bastard! Got the bolt off but cant seem to get it to release. So far this is where i am at with this project. Fingers crossed, I have about 2 more days to get it done!
I noticed that there are some steps missing I think. For example, sliding the linkage off of the gearshift selector. Also it appears as though there are many electrical connectors that shod be taken off that dont seem to be mentioned. Am I wrong or is my 07 XLT 3.0 just that different??? If so I would recomend maybe mentioning that this is not step by step so someone doesnt go too far down the rabit hole and then has no idea how to proceed. Like when you took out the air bag you said there were other connectors but that you would get back to them and never did. Even so this is a great video!!!
I have a 2003 Ford Ranger with the 3.0 and just replaced my heater core today after viewing this video. The only step that wasn't necessary on my vehicle was removing the passenger side inner fender well. There was no bolt there. Thanks for all the info though. It helped a lot.
Thanks for watching, glad the video was a help.
Best instructional video! Didn’t do everything he did, but the clarity of his instructions made it super easy to figure out what I needed to do. Not only for heater core replacement, if you need to access anything in the dash, this is an excellent video.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I helped my son change the heater core in his 98 Ranger today. Your videos helped tremendously.
Glad to be of service and thanks for watching
Great video! Just finished my 2000 Ranger heater core replacement and all's well so far. Couldn't have done it without this resource. I managed it without disconnecting the wire bundle at the firewall or the driver's sidekick panel, but otherwise all per the video. ;) Definitely not a job for the faint of heart! Cheers!
Glad the video was of service to you. Thanks for watching 👍
I watched your video about 4 times and each time I learned some things that were somewhat different-- I have a Ranger 4x4 with extended cab and Air conditioner -- that one bolt behind the engine was a real duzzy to get to-- I took two 7/16 wrenches and bolted then together to be able to reach that one nut-- it was that or take off the intake manifold to get axes-- but that worked to get the lower nut off the firewall-- but I do thank you because several videos showed bits and pieces-- the worst one was one that literally destroyed things and then taped them back together-- thank you for being careful and complete-- and a thumbs up for you-- Richard Nolan
I've got a 06 Ranger and I have to say this video is fantastic. Just an fyi, on the 06 models you don't have to move the power distribution box to access the wire that go thru the firewall...there's actually a plug under the dash. Also you don't need to pull the wheel well cover to access that bolt,it's done from inside the cab. After pulling back the evaporate there's a nut you'll need to remove and where the two were next to the evaporater (right side), there's two more nuts....they double nutted those two studs. The video really steps you thru the complete process....GREAT JOB!
+John Venegas thank you for the added points concerning an '06 v '03 difference. Also thanks for watching and commenting 👍
Completed the job on my 07 Ranger thanks to your comment John Venegas. I was able to just disconnect the one connector under the dash, instead of the two through the fire wall. Also ran across the other three nuts behind the evaporator housing after you pull it back. Did not have to go through fender either but just got the one nut under the dash. Thank you again for you comment, helped me out a bunch.
I'm in the process of doing my Ranger heater core. Chose your tutorial to follow. Going great so far. Thanks for the precise yet understandable way in which to show how to do this. Dash is now released, and tomorrow I get to see what lies underneath. Hope the next phase goes as well as phase 1.
+David Zellaby glad to be of service.
Was it necessary to remove the cluster gauge?? I am in progress of replacing my heater core as well
No, removed mine in order to replace bulbs.
Great video. I guess I'll be doing my 2008 Ranger in the next few weeks. Are you sure the tailgate doesn't have to come off, too. Yikes! That's a lot stuff to take out!
How bad was it?
good video sir, you look like my paw paw and yall talk the same .he has 6een gone since i was a teenager. i liked watchin your video
Thank you GD
I've been trying to decide if I want to do this myself or take it to the shop on my 2002. I think with the two videos you made I'm going to give it a go myself. Wish me luck!
Good Luck Major, glad you found the videos helpful
Im scared to do it
t.his is the best video on heater core removal . on a 2003 ford ranger
Thank You
Very informative and detailed video. I have to unfortunately replace the heater core in my 03 ranger. Thank you for taking the time to make this video
+McCord Grimes you are most welcome, I made the video because there wasn't a more detailed one at the time. Good luck in your replacement process. If you have further questions, I'll be glad to help if I can.
BEST VIDEO ON THIS SUBJECT YET THANKS
Hey Thanks big guy great video and insight that I have seen yet
Jesus, Mary, and Jehosephat! The entire truck needs to be disassembled!
Looks like I'll be using my sawzaw instead.
the engineers of this truck should face the firing squad.
Concur
Great video! Thanks for sharing. Is it necessary to remove the drivers side air bag?
No it’s not but I did it for safety...thanks for watching👍
great video! what kind of drill were you using for this?
Wes,
A Porter Cable 18V Lithium cordless...Thanks for watching and the comment
Great Video! - What if you drive Standard? Do you need to remove the shifter?
Nick, don’t know...thinking not as long as you pull the shifter back when pulling the dash out. I think it’s not that difficult to release the shifter if need be. Pretty sure it’s a top load shifter the can be released by loosening a captive nut. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍
the fender liner does not need to be removed. since bottom bolt removal is in side cab.
Do i have to take the wheel too???
It’s easier if you do. Thanks for watching
Just completed the job on my 2007 Ford Ranger. Thank you so much! I only attempted it because of your video. I wrote up the instructions after watching the two videos so I could just look at a piece of paper while doing the job. Again, thank you so much! You saved me mucho dinero. Instructions here if anyone is interested: docs.google.com/document/d/1UW6glVgaMHgFcTlk40BgtZqbpbBgMRjqUUbCngLw1M8/edit
Outstanding! Glad to be of service
passenger side you remove vaccum lines, unplugg one electrical line and vaccum to door controller and antenna, two dash bolts.
While I watched this. I noticed you did several things that did NOT need to be done, and one of them could cost you more in repairs.
1. you don't need to remove all that trim on the drivers and passenger side. The dash will move around it. You only need to remove the kick panel from the passenger side, and that can be done without removing any other trim panels.
2. DO NOT REMOVE THE AIRBAGS!!!!! It's not required and definitely NOT recommended for the weekend warrior mechanic.
3. DO NOT disconnect the steering column shaft. Disconnect the column from the dash and let it down. Taking the shaft loose and NOT locking the steering wheel risks damage to the clock spring, which can cause steering wheel buttons to not work and/or airbag problems. So don't do it. Just take the column loose from the dash.
Suiffice to say, I would follow the video by Valley Mobile Automotive, since they are a professional and show the correct procedure for this job.
i got 99 ranger 3.0 is it the same thing?
Not exactly but you do have to pull the dash.
i watched a video they took whole dash out in 20 mins didnt pull a bunch of extras off it was a 2000
Thanks Dean...
hello, I've got a 2001 ranger 3.0 L, will this process be the same? thanks
+gbolt88 should be very similar if not actually the same.
thank you so much for the reply
On my XLT 2000 there is no nut in wheel well, there is a nut in the cabin in the right lower corner and extra nut behind condenser between first and second nut shown in the video but lower about 2". There are few wires and connectors which have to be disconnected before dropping dashboard on the left and right side and vacuum lines and temp control mechanism on top of the air box
when putting it dashboard back I used cardboard wedged under right corner to lift the left side to position and install first bolt under the windshield after that it was easy. I forgot snap in the temp control module on top of the box but was able to snick it in and rotate the nob to be able to do it. The heat shield of the computer was jamming the box but I just press it upwards with screwdriver; doesn't have to be removed
It’s a good video and all, but you did a lot of stuff that was just not needed for the heater core replacement
That’s mostly due for the need to pull the instrument cluster to replace blurbs that were blown.
May as well fix the shift tube while you have it apart even it it ain’t bad because it will fail .
You are soooo slow...do you really have to think you're teaching little kids??
Lost me..😯
Pretty smart dude I'm not looking forward to doing this job lol