Building a 632" BBC - Short Block Assembly (part 2)
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- HOW TO VIDEO LINKS:
How to Gap Piston Rings - • How to Gap Piston Ring...
How to Check PTV Clearance - • How to Check PTV Clear...
How to Measure Bearing Clearance - • Measuring Bearing Clea...
How to Measure Pushrod Length - • How to Measure LS Push...
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Some builders plug the rear lifter galley between the distributor and the last lifter, Big M's with hydraulic rollers can be noisy if there's too much oil leaking past the distributor.
Great job from Australia 🇦🇺
This is precisely what I'm planning for a grudge car build. 91 octane, hydraulic roller, 632ci. Looking forward to learning from you
This is my dream engine for my 78 squarebody restoration.
Engine Yes Good Work You Do
Why haven't you checked piston to valve clearance before final bottom end assembly what happens if pistons need final clearance or you want to run a more aggressive camshaft ??
Love your work Mate ! 👍👍
Part 3??
This thing with the FiTech ultra ram 800 would be nasty!
Are you guessing at the lobe Centerline angles
You don’t de burr the blocks how come
So what would you do differently if you were going to throw 2 blowers on it?
Is there documentation somewhere that will specify main cap bearing clearances based off what application your motor is being built for?
Negative. There are general rules of thumb but every application s different
Yes!!!!
I am curious if you went with a standard set, then with a half standard half .001 under, then a full set of .001 under bearings to get your clearance right. Seems like finding .002 undersize is becoming more difficult.
Started with Std X, Std, then .001’s
What timing chain cover is that?
Why didn't you remove the casting flash from the lifter valley?
I cant find the follow up to this video...
I know you have high quality stuff and I’m ashamed to ask, but what’s your opinion on a 351w roller ford? It’s questionable and everyone has a different opinion on what kind of power the factory block may hold. I don’t have the good 69 era block, a 94. Thanks
Depends on the application! For a mild street setup the factory blocks are usually ok.
So what of piston ring gap staggering and dot up on rings for those that don't know also what of dot to dot with crank to cam gears again for those who don't know
other wise job well done lad
I noticed that you only measured the gap on the top two rings. Do you ever need to adjust the gap on the oil rings? Also, are we going to be able to hear this engine run on the dyno? That'd be sweet!
Oil rings just need to be at least .015” gap, on street motors they are basically drop in.
Yes this engine will be dyno’d and filmed!
@@JacobVillemain Can't wait to hear it!
How do they press on the distributor gear on a billet cam? Didn't know that was possible
That last part of the cam (end bearing) is also prest on after the gear.
@@ThePalikka85 Thank You
Very nice job, interesting stuff. Sorry to just say, that camera whizzing everywhere is just too hard to watch. Thanks.
I like seeing this block come together! Out of curiosity, what is it going into?
I don’t know yet! It hasn’t been purchased
Where is your machine shop located rlly like the work I’m seeing here
San Antonio area
Do you have dyno services available? I'm guessing if you dyno the cost is around 500.00 to 700.00..?
We do not. Only dyno our engine builds
@@JacobVillemain well that was what I was asking.I didn't make myself clear..
What main and rod clearances do you normally like to run?
Molnar distributor gear is designed to work with billet cams and not show where
You don't manufacture the crank or the rods are They K1 or scat
you guy play annoying music thumbs down
Part 3?