I saw your post on R/DIY and wanted to check out your work. You did a nice job explaining the process, and it looks like a job well done. While projects like this are daunting they feel very satisfying when they come together.
I did it just by eyesight! Only a few inches needs to come out of the concrete so “eyesight level” is good enough. A better way to do it would have been like this. Thread a nut a few turns into the bolt and then use a small level to check the plumb. The nut will create a better surface for the level to sit on. And for squaring the posts, I just measured each one until they were all equally distance from the edges on the sides and front.
Tengo una duda de por k le quitan el cemento para poner el barrote. K sostiene el porche en mi casa lo pusieron encima del cemento. Lo quiero renovar por k esta ya muy viejo pero cuando vi tu segundo video. Me hiso dudar
Se quita el cemento por unas razones importantes. Primero, para poder ver los barrotes verticales de la casa donde va ir e barrote de 2x6. Es importante que este barrote esté bien anclado al centro de estos postes para que quede fuerte, si no se quita el cemento no podrás ver muy bien donde están estos barrotes verticales. Segunda razón es para agregar los ángulos de metal que van debajo del cemento para prevenir que la agua se regrese y caiga debajo del cemento o dentro del patio, si no se quita el cemento, tendrás que sellar el barrote con algo que posiblemente en unos años se seque y cause grietas donde la agua se vaya. Espero que esto sea de ayuda.
Check your local city codes. In the state of Glendale, AZ I was asked to get a permit. But I couldn’t afford it when it came time to pay ($600), but I had my packet filled out and all plans drawn according to their codes. I decided to go ahead and do it without a permit. Do this at your own discretion.
This is a great video! Im in Tucson and doing a variation of this and have gotten so many good tips. I already had a patio slab and only had to pour footers. I cut out the square area, dug down and placed rebar per code. When I poured cement for 2 of footers, screed it level etc then it shrunk down to be 1/8" below level of existing patio slab after curing. any suggestions on cement work or way to prevent that? ( its too late now but Id like to know)
Thank you for your feedback. The only for sure known method I know to avoid settling of the concrete after pouring is to use a vibrating tool so that all the air pockets and voids in the concrete mix will be eliminated. The other DIY work around is to just pour a little extra on top and leave a “dome” like shape on top that as the concrete settles and cures, you can just chip away the extra from the top or grind it down to the level of the existing concrete.
I found the center of where I wanted my posts to go by measuring. I then purchased 5/8 bolts which were buried in the concrete when we poured it in. I left about 1 inch of the bolt exposed from the concrete
Is there a pitch to this ? Like a “lean to” ? Also, how do the rafter hangers work if you want a slight pitch … it looks like they will only work if the rafter and straight and flush .. thanks
This is a .5/12 slope roof. It means that for every 12 inches of length, the roof slopes down 1/2 inch. So in 12 feet of length, there is a 6” drop. Perfectly normal for the kind of roof material I used and location I live. Also, there are two cuts that need to be made on the rafters to properly have them sit at the correct pitch. The first one is where they sit on top of the beam, you can sit the rafter on top of the beam and mark the slope with a pencil. The same idea applies for the hanger side, an offset cut is notched out.
Simplemente por el precio. Una hoja de triplay de madera cuesta más y no es necesario para este uso de una sombra como esta, aunque si aguanta buen peso y personas arriba de ella.
win30034 joist hangers were purchased from Home Depot. They are called “Simpson Strong-Tie top-flange 2x6 joist hanger.” The Z bar flashing is, “Gibraltar Building Products 1 in. x 10 ft. Bonderized Steel Z Bar Flashing. The counter flashing was, “Gibraltar Building Products 2 in. x 3 in. x 10 ft. Galvanized Steel Roof-To-Wall Flashing.”
Thank you for sharing especially the z-bar flashing
Thank you for watching the video!
Nice work, and with the Arizona heat it's good idea to pour early early in the morning
Thank you. I ordered the cement truck for first thing in the morning, but they told me 10am was the earlier they could do.
Great video sir!
Thank you!
I saw your post on R/DIY and wanted to check out your work. You did a nice job explaining the process, and it looks
like a job well done. While projects like this are daunting they feel very satisfying when they come together.
Yes, it definitely brings a lot of joy and pride seeing our patio finished.
Beautiful job Luis!!
Thank you! Love the feedback!
Nice ! Now it inspired me to do that same patio size and style. How much all material to make the Patio and dimension? Thanks!
I’m glad you liked the video. Back when I first built it, materials were about $2,000
Amazing work!!
Thank you
Just subbed. Great content mate thanks
Thanks for the sub!
Luis... how did you square, level or plum your anchor bolts into the concrete for your post brackets?? Another great video!
I did it just by eyesight! Only a few inches needs to come out of the concrete so “eyesight level” is good enough. A better way to do it would have been like this. Thread a nut a few turns into the bolt and then use a small level to check the plumb. The nut will create a better surface for the level to sit on. And for squaring the posts, I just measured each one until they were all equally distance from the edges on the sides and front.
@@luisangelmedia4459 thank you bro! You make it look so easy!
@@jhonnyblade702 thank you for checking out my video
Tengo una duda de por k le quitan el cemento para poner el barrote. K sostiene el porche en mi casa lo pusieron encima del cemento. Lo quiero renovar por k esta ya muy viejo pero cuando vi tu segundo video. Me hiso dudar
Se quita el cemento por unas razones importantes. Primero, para poder ver los barrotes verticales de la casa donde va ir e barrote de 2x6. Es importante que este barrote esté bien anclado al centro de estos postes para que quede fuerte, si no se quita el cemento no podrás ver muy bien donde están estos barrotes verticales. Segunda razón es para agregar los ángulos de metal que van debajo del cemento para prevenir que la agua se regrese y caiga debajo del cemento o dentro del patio, si no se quita el cemento, tendrás que sellar el barrote con algo que posiblemente en unos años se seque y cause grietas donde la agua se vaya. Espero que esto sea de ayuda.
Did you need city permit to build the patio roof?
Check your local city codes. In the state of Glendale, AZ I was asked to get a permit. But I couldn’t afford it when it came time to pay ($600), but I had my packet filled out and all plans drawn according to their codes. I decided to go ahead and do it without a permit. Do this at your own discretion.
Are you in the Florida area?
No, I’m sorry, I live and work in Phoenix, Arizona.
This is a great video! Im in Tucson and doing a variation of this and have gotten so many good tips. I already had a patio slab and only had to pour footers. I cut out the square area, dug down and placed rebar per code. When I poured cement for 2 of footers, screed it level etc then it shrunk down to be 1/8" below level of existing patio slab after curing.
any suggestions on cement work or way to prevent that? ( its too late now but Id like to know)
Thank you for your feedback. The only for sure known method I know to avoid settling of the concrete after pouring is to use a vibrating tool so that all the air pockets and voids in the concrete mix will be eliminated. The other DIY work around is to just pour a little extra on top and leave a “dome” like shape on top that as the concrete settles and cures, you can just chip away the extra from the top or grind it down to the level of the existing concrete.
How did you do the J-bolt anchor?
I found the center of where I wanted my posts to go by measuring. I then purchased 5/8 bolts which were buried in the concrete when we poured it in. I left about 1 inch of the bolt exposed from the concrete
Is there a pitch to this ? Like a “lean to” ? Also, how do the rafter hangers work if you want a slight pitch … it looks like they will only work if the rafter and straight and flush .. thanks
This is a .5/12 slope roof. It means that for every 12 inches of length, the roof slopes down 1/2 inch. So in 12 feet of length, there is a 6” drop. Perfectly normal for the kind of roof material I used and location I live. Also, there are two cuts that need to be made on the rafters to properly have them sit at the correct pitch. The first one is where they sit on top of the beam, you can sit the rafter on top of the beam and mark the slope with a pencil. The same idea applies for the hanger side, an offset cut is notched out.
@@luisangelmedia4459 makes perfect sense .. thank you
@@sgjesse13 you’re welcome 😉
Nice I live in Phoenix where did you order the concrete?
I think it was “Sky Ready Mix”
+1 (602) 483-2391
Por k usan triplay de petatillo y no tiplay de madera. Gracias por quitarme mis dudas
Simplemente por el precio. Una hoja de triplay de madera cuesta más y no es necesario para este uso de una sombra como esta, aunque si aguanta buen peso y personas arriba de ella.
Good day sir. Can you please give a link or description of the joist hangers, flashing material etc? Where did you get them. Thank you.
win30034 joist hangers were purchased from Home Depot. They are called “Simpson Strong-Tie top-flange 2x6 joist hanger.” The Z bar flashing is, “Gibraltar Building Products 1 in. x 10 ft. Bonderized Steel Z Bar Flashing. The counter flashing was, “Gibraltar Building Products 2 in. x 3 in. x 10 ft. Galvanized Steel Roof-To-Wall Flashing.”
Awesome, quick reply. what about the Hangers or brace on top of upright posts?. thanks you. I just realized in my county, I have to submit drawings.
win30034 those are Simpson Strong-tie 4x post cap. Good luck
@@luisangelmedia4459 Thank you very Much.
I LIVE IN GLENDALE AZ
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Did you put rebar in your slab?
I only did the welded wire, or that wire that is meshed together. No rebar used for this concrete.
@Lteo Hrnt yeah I don’t think it needed more reinforcement than that. It’s only a patio floor.
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