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@@jimrylander9143 they planned it out like this. The concrete was also poured only to clear the sliding door. My guess is that they have other plans for that section, maybe some pavers or turf. Everyone has different ideas.

@@luisangelmedia4459 true

@@ibladyj7 hello there. I’m only working locally in the Phoenix area.

@@RicardoGarcia-wt9qo me puedes decir a cual minuto y segundo miraste esto porque no estoy seguro a cual parte de refieres.

@@krischow3 thank you!

⁠@@luisangelmedia4459: I hope to one day earn enough to submit a project proposal for similar work in the future 😅 keep it up 👏🏻

@@luisangelmedia4459 I had forgotten to ask if you offer this installation service to the Chandler area. Crossing fingers for possible timing in the near coming future 😅

@@michaelmoses9256 you can email me at luisangelmedia@gmail.com

@@misoguj thank you! I work locally in Phoenix, AZ. If you live in the area, you can email me at luisangelmedia@gmail.com

@@peanutbutterinterior8512 thank you, you are absolutely right. I’m happy to have my father helping me!

@@eltigretigre1835 $2,500 por el material y $4,000 la mano de obra.

@@eltigretigre1835 la mano de obra es $4,000

@@eltigretigre1835 la mano de obra es $4,000

@@edest4321 it’s 2x6

Usually it should be inch per foot, 8 foot long span needs 8 inch wide leadger board

But awnings are different than decks

@@kevinbaldonado5614 first time hearing this for me. I built this patio and three other ones using the schedules provided by the city and the size of the ledger board doesn’t change if the rafter span is longer.

@@kevinbaldonado5614 yeah, this is a lean to roof.

@@genevelis6075 the base sheet is smooth and does not provide enough protection on its own, so on top of this you add a cap sheet which has granules on the surface and is stronger material that will last for a long time.

@@luisangelmedia4459 👌👍🙏 You just got me as a new subscriber.

@@genevelis6075 thank you!

​​@@luisangelmedia4459 important questions for me: At Our ranch property I plan to extend the metal corrugated roof to the barn, But it's already at the end about 6' or 7'. How I raise posts to 10' so I can have extended roof at the lowest point 7'. I also plan to dig 8' down to make a simple Rootcellar with footing and foundation wall up to the ground surface, but it's a different story.

@@genevelis6075 you could “sister” another post, that means using two wooden 2x6 or 2x8 to sandwich a smaller post on to the already existing post to make it higher.

@@ericbaeza3661 you’re probably looking at a starting price of $2,500 materials and $4,000 labor, but I would estimate more.

@@01Bluefin they are special anchors for concrete. The tip has a wedge that will grip on harder the more you tighten them. Here is a link to the Home Depot website, www.homedepot.com/p/Red-Head-1-2-in-x-4-1-4-in-Steel-Hex-Nut-Head-Concrete-Wedge-Anchors-10-Pack-12020/308279945

@@luisangelmedia4459 lol, yeah I was wondering about that. Thank you and great job!

@@01Bluefin thank you!

@@FranklinBegley-f1x hello

@@edwindizon3628 thank you!

@@pavelsolovyenko1975 thank you. The city of Glendale, AZ has a table for how far apart posts can be depending the size of the beam. A 4x6 post will support a 4x6 horizontal beam 10 feet apart with 10 foot long rafters.

🥳

@@anibalvasquez7443 muchas gracias por el consejo.

@@GerardSaint-Victor thank you!

@@JDankens thank you for the information. I’ll have to take a look at that material you mentioned.

@@joserollinson4049 la que va en el estucó es de 2x6 y también las vigas que corren del 2x6 a la viga horizontal. Solamente las tablas de afuera son un poco más grande, 2x7, para que cubra el cielo si es que se va a ponder uno, como de tabla de yeso.

@@luisangelmedia4459 muchas gracias amigo...fue de mucha ayuda...su informacion

@@joserollinson4049 gracias a usted también por mirar mi video y poner un comentario, Dios te bendiga.

@@joserollinson4049 los postes están separados 10 pies. Y las vigas son de 4x8, y las dos vivas de alado son como 12 pies de largo y la de en medio es 10.

@@DustinWofford the ledger board is commonly attached to the top plate, that’s the two 2x4 stacked sideways running across the span of the house, but for this build, I went up a bit higher and I attached it to the vertical 2x4 studs.

@@JasonGerrish-i3g hello, you’re correct, I’m in the Phoenix area and I also got your email. I’m in a busy season at the moment, but I’ll take a look and try to reply soon.

@@luisangelmedia4459 thank you for responding. We are in the planning phase currently the project wouldn’t start until October if that helps with your scheduling. I would love to get an estimate from you though. Thank you.

@@JasonGerrish-i3g hello, you’re correct, I’m in the Phoenix area and I also got your email. I’m in a busy season at the moment, but I’ll take a look and try to reply soon.

@@EricRodriguez-u2k if you’re not cutting into the stucco, then just put a normal L flashing from the stucco to the top of the roofing material and seal it with silicone. Be prepared to seal it with silicone or caulking every summer though as it’s going to be your only way to keep the water out.

@@susanh.3705 thank you!

@@coltontoth2382 thank you as well for watching and commenting.

@@ongke8920 Yes we can

@@ongke8920 Yes, we can!

@@HipInPlants thank you!

@@Dabb2877 thank you

@@danieldresser9368 Thank you, I replied to your other comment that you can do drywall or plaster or some kind of decorative wood. The wooden posts can also be stuccoed, you can build them up a bit more with plywood to make them look like thick columns once the stucco is applied.

@@danieldresser9368 Thank you. The common thing to do after you finish the patio is to start adding the insulation and drywall. If you don’t want drywall, you can do plaster as well or any decorative wood.

@@AndyTran-oj7cx here in Phoenix, Arizona and surrounding cities, you need a permit for any work done being done on your house. However, this patio, along with many others than have been and will be built, are done so without a permit. My advice is to at least consult your city zoning and planning as well as your HOA if you have one to get the instructions or the scheduling (that’s a paper that contains the required size beams and rafters) so at least you build it how they would approve it.

@@backyardengineer916 thank you!

@@carolp3262 Hello there, I’m sorry to hear about your patio. I would try to fix this by rolling on a roof coating of “elastomeric” it’s like white paint, but really thick. I would apply this between the patio and the stucco of the house. You might need two coats.

Thank you so much for your prompt reply.

Hi Luis Angel, so you don’t recommend trying to cut the stucco and placing the z plate after the patio os built? Because the person who built the patio was giving me that option.

@@carolp3262 Oh I would definitely do that! I was thinking you were asking what would be a simple fix for you to try and do. If he’s offering you to redo the patio, which he basically has to do in order to cut the stucco and put the counter flashing in, then I would totally agree.

Hi Luis, i don’t think he is offering to re- do it ( disassemble and build it again), i think he said that he will cut the stucco and place counter flashing on top of the patio. But , i am afraid that this may be worst and the water can infiltrate more.

@@Gam491961 are you talking about how the metal hangers doesn’t let the OSB boards lay down flat on the rafters? This should not be a cause for concern because it’s only a tiny difference. There are other hangers that don’t have that lip on top if you’d rather use those, I just like these because they grab on to the ledger board from the top.

@@luisangelmedia4459 yeah, the rafter isn’t level with the ledger board. It’s sticking up a bit. Yes, the OSB won’t lay flat.

@@luisangelmedia4459 can you share the part number of the hanger from sure try that you’re using? I had to look at a video and zoom in on the hangers you’re using on your header and order them from Amazon. Nobody around my area carry them.

@@Gam491961 you can buy them at Home Depot, here’s the link, www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-PF-18-Gauge-Galvanized-Post-Frame-Hanger-for-2x6-Nominal-Lumber-PF26/100374865

@@garyjames4313 it’s about 13 feet by 35 feet. It over hangs about a foot where the water slopes down and on the sides, it’s about the same length as the concrete as they asked me not to take it further towards the window.

@@jesse9254 I’m sorry to hear that! Hopefully it arrives sooner.

@@luisangelmedia4459 appreciate your video.. I'm wondering if I can only replace the top part of the fuse box that is burned..? Hm 😫🤔

@@jesse9254 yes, that’s exactly what I did. The bottom of the fuse box only has a few pins that insert into the base of the box underneath, which looks good to me.

@@luisangelmedia4459 yea I thought so.. like its one big fuse itself..but 2 pieces ..thanks again

@@andyfabian7127 materials for this was $2,500, lumber and the roof.

@@dog_biter thank you as well for watching and leaving a comment, I’m glad you like my videos.

@@luisangelmedia4459 are the beams available at Home Depot? 4x8?

I don’t know how your comment slipped by me, but I just saw it now. Mini splits are incredible and they even work exceptionally well in Phoenix heat. It will easily cool down a room to as low as you’d like no problem. Don’t think of them like those old window AC units, mini splits are almost as good as regular AC, in their ability to cool.

@@luisangelmedia4459 Thank you for replying. I have a 25 year-old on/off package unit on the roof with leaky duct in the attic. What system would you recommend for a small 3 br, two bath, kitchen living room and I'd like to condition the garage as well. 104F in the summer in the garage is not cutting it anymore. Would you install a split system per room or go with a compressor that can supply multiple evaporators?

@@rambleon2838 id would do a multi zone unit for the bedrooms as they will be very different to each other, each room needing more or less cooling. Then I would do another multi zone for what would be the kitchen and living room and then 1 for whatever else is left to cool, like the garage.

@@iheanyiukaegbu9617 Thank you! You can email me at luisangelmedia@gmail.com

@@sixgunsue8 it’s 35 feet along the side of the house and 13 feet extending away from the house. You always want to have at least 12 inches over your concrete. You can do more or less.

@@dog_biter thank you for letting me know. The angle of the rafters will depend on the span of the roof and the sizing of your beams. But here’s how you can find the angle of the rafters; start by taking the length, away from the house that your rafters will be. For every 12 inches, you’re going to pitch the roof 1/2 inch. So for this roof that is 12 feet long, that’s 6 inches. Next, measure the bottom of the ledger board to the floor and take away 6 inches from that, this measurement is now the height from the floor to the top of the horizontal beams where the rafters will sit on. I hope this helps.

@@jelie2k thank you for watching and commenting. The labor for this work was around $4,000 and materials for this was $2,500 at the time of building it.

@@toddytwotones2905 on this build they are about 9 feet and 6 inches on center. Here is a video describing the positioning of the posts ruclips.net/video/C-FREXA03x0/видео.html

@@GMoney-f7n the slope is determined by the type of materials and type of roof. This kind of roof a “lean to” roof with these kind of materials, the roofing rolls, need a minimum of .5/12 slope or half inch slope every 12 inches. So for 12 feet roof span, that’s 6 inches from the bottom of the ledger board to the top of the horizontal beam. The rafters are sloped down 6 inches.

Luis…thanks for the quick reply! My plan is to do pretty much the same style as you are doing. If send you my email can you email me directly?

@@GMoney-f7n you can email me Luisangelmedia@gmail.com

Thanks Luis! you get an email at from gavilagon.

Hi Luis, did you get my email? I sent you another just in case.

@@nicklindsey3099 not all eaves have holes. Here in AZ, we have big vent holes in front of the “A” and the back of the “A” side of the house. Air circulates in and out of these two vents and sometimes you’ll have houses with two wind turbine vents on the roof that spin and draw out air front the attic. So neither on the back side of the house, where we are building, or the front of the house, will you find holes on the eaves.

@@luisangelmedia4459 might wanna add those details in the video next time, so guys like me don't have to have to ask/say the obvious statements

@@nicklindsey3099 it’s all good. I love replying back to comments. However, I’ll be sure to add more info on my builds including stuff like this. Thank you.