You have to love getting someone who has put in the time and effort to make it look so smooth and effortless, proving that you actually don't know what your doing. Lol
Never heard of or knew of this process till I stumbled on to your site. Outstanding, Now I know what some of my friends are yakking about. Learn something everyday and I have - thank you
That spalted maple is absolutely beautiful! What a great way to stabilize the decayed wood. Great job, Dema, in turning those little gems into a useful tool!
I have a concert-sized ukulele, the body of which is made entirely from spalted maple which is not only nice to play but is something to look at from an aesthetic point of view ! By the way, maple is probably my favourite tonewood for guitars, ukuleles etc...
It's amazing to see how you can make something so beautiful out of a piece of rotten wood. Thank you for sharing this interesting technique with us Matt. I look forward to your future experiments with dyes and other woods.
Just got one of the hammers on Friday, love it. But I'm going to have to order another one, mine was "borrowed" by my wife. It's awesome to see the whole process thanks😀
Wow Matt....that turned out amazing!! What an interesting treatment to do to wood. This is one of the main examples of what you can learn on RUclips...who would have ever known you could take “punky” wood into a more solid piece of awesomeness!!!! I totally enjoyed this video and thank you very much!
Heather mentioned a rolling pin, awesome idea. I think box wood burl would make some very nice faucet handles, door knockers, all kinds of things. Great post Mr Matthew.
A skew chisel on a lathe can produce a cleaner finish than sandpaper. Also never turn off your vacuum pump during the initial stage. Favorite part is when your kid asked to go to the shop and you said we in the shop lol.
Hey, you could add those metal weights that you used to hold down the wood in the epoxy as heat sinks/heat shields in the toaster oven. Placing them between the heating element and the wood could help even out the temperature within that tiny toaster oven, and protect the wood closest to the element from big swings in temperature. Love the videos, Skol Vikings!
Matt, sometimes being subscribed to many channels makes me miss a video! Unfortunately I missed this one. So I’m late to comment. Sorry. The process and results were very interesting to watch, especially when I get to see you and Dema together again! If you have any of the river blue colored resin left from the river tables, it might be cool to see that flowing through the voids of one of these handles.
Another step you could try is after the vac and soaking. Get a painter's pressure pot. (You will have to do a few mods to it). Put the whole container into the pot and pressurize it to 60 pounds for about 8 hours, then do your wrap and bake. I like the idea that Heather has about making a rolling pins.
A BIG hint, when returning unused resin to the original container, filter it. I've found a cheap funnel can be made by cutting off the top portion of a two liter soft drink bottle and putting a fine screen toward the bottom. The funnel is disposable, and it will keep stray bits of foreign matter from contaminating your next project. ^_*
Really cool process Matt and great job on the blanks! 👍👊 Dema's brass hammers are amazing! 😍 ...... About the two mallets, I think it's an optical illusion that the one is larger than the other, I believe that they're the same size but one only appears larger because it has a Fro on it! 😉😁
Very cool process, to go from basically wood you would toss to a incredible piece is so awesome. Oh and Dema that was freakin awesome how fast you’re able to produce a handle. Take care my friend
Matt - hopefully you'll read this. You need to run the vacuum pump continuously until all of the air is pulled out. If you just stop the pump and let it sit, you will not get all of the air out of the wood and therefore will not get maximum cactus juice penetration. Ask Curtis - the guy that makes the Cactus Juice. He's great at answering questions. Also look into getting one of his Oven Tamers fir your oven. You will get a more consistent temperature during the curing process which allows you to run the oven at a lower temp. That will result in less resin coming back out of the wood.
Leaping Lemur Craftworks the wood was so gone that it was soaked through before he hit the vacuum, on a more solid wood it is true you need to hold a vacuum longer.
Thanks for the reply Dema. I've not stabilized a piece that was that rotten. "How long do I need to run the pump" is a common question for those new to stabilizing - I know I asked it.....multiple times. The hammers have been looking great - been following you on IG.
Leaping Lemur Craftworks yeah it's definitely a learning curve, I've had some blanks with the pump running for 24 hours before, understanding the wood you're using is key and that knowledge doesn't come over night. This is matts first stabilize, I think he did good :)
For my mallet I just used some of the old oak chunk I use for my trailer block , once I cleaned it up it looked good . Made a smaller lighter dovetail mallet out of red oak , but it got stolen by my kid and now it’s a kid sized Thor’s hammer for him
shame is 90% of folks wouldn't know what they were looking at it would be lost on them. they would never have a clue of what went into it to make it nowadays. sad but true. nice worth the time.
WOW!!! Don't know how I missed this video at the time of it's release (?!?), but I'm thrilled and confident that I will glean truly reliable, expert knowledge, as always! I'm actually looking into "stabilizing"(if it's applicable) a 6"-thick White Oak slab, for use as a heavy duty workbench. Wondering what the best material(s) would be, in your opinion, as well as wether you think it's even feasible or not. Thanks tons for any feedback, and thanks at least ONE ton, even if you don't respond! (Edit: btw, I LOVE the hammer! I'm a big fan of all sorts of the category of slightly heavier hammers, for all sorts of uses....things like in the "lump-hammer" range.... This one, with the short, thick handle, makes so much sense - tons of control for deft hammering!)
Matthew Cremona - So, that's the thing...it probably doesn't "need" any.... It's just that the few small checks will unnerve me, as I plan to be able to bolt-things-into/beat-on/have-for-a-lifetime, whatever I build, Lol. I certainly could just "fill in the cracks", but I'm in the "do it all the way, or not at all" type of mindset. Also, does this product REQUIRE a vacuum, or would a stupid amount of time also work? I'm imagining having to build a trough to soak the slab in, and turn it over after a week or so...or two... whatever....
That was a pretty cool process, and a interesting resin cured by heat. Kinda makes me wonder how it would look to do colored resin then cure with a torch. Less structural and more artsy use pretty much
What do you think of stabilizing larger slabs of spalted wood for table etc.? 1st stabilizing the wood and then do all the other steps (epoxy pour, ssanding, finish etc.) so at the end you would have a nice solid spalted table. Is it cost effective and worth to do that. Did you ever tried it?
My father worked in the 60-70's with wood, resin and vacuum to develop cores for x-country glass fiber skis. Apparently the resins he developed is something now produced commercially. If he had been a business man also ....
Thanks for the heads up about that stuff. Totally new to me since I've never needed anything like it but know that I know about it, maybe I will look for stuff to use it on :p
Another interesting video. Good result. Very nice! I'm sitting here thinking about pressure treated timber in the UK. My understanding is that it's placed under a vacuum to get the air out, so the chemicals seep into the wood. I've read that it's the removal of the vacuum that helps force the chemicals in too - at the end of the soak. Basically restoring atmospheric pressure pushes chemicals into the wood. Does this mean that you don't need to soak for quite that long?
would be cool if you made more than just handles for hammers. could be handles/knobs for doors, cabinets, furniture, beer tap, etc. also would like to see some mini fat souvenir bats made from a similar wood.
Exceptional video as usual Matt, thank you for sharing it with us. Quick question if you don’t mind please. When reading the written description that I googled then following the link here to the video, in neither did you say anything about putting the blanks in the oven to dry them out first before then putting them in the resin and vacuum. Did you pre-toast them as is recommended or did you just cut the blanks and put them in the resin as it would seem you did? Also, if you did toast them dry before resining, would it still work with some pieces of timber that have already been glued together or would the glue fail because of the heat? Any help you can give me would be really helpful if possible please. Again thank you for all your great teaching, you’ve helped me to become a much better and finer woodworker and I am eternally grateful mate. All the best from Down Under, hang in there and stay safe during this terribly difficult time mate, stay cool, see ya 😎👍🏻
Hey Matt, not sure where to ask this question, so I’ll just put it out here. Is Dema still making the small hammers! I just checked Etsy and nothing was shown on his site. After watching you stabilize the spalted wood and seeing him turn it, I went on and bought one immediately. I love that thing and wanted to get more for gifts…just wondering if you could direct me somewhere else for his stuff? Just rewatched and got me interested again. Thanks, jerre
Great video! Thanks for sharing. I'd like to hear more about the vacuum equipment that you choose. Any tips on what to look for? Those little hammers are so cool!
Hello from Tennessee! I have 2 boards (spalted maple) with huge holes made from worms. They would make really cool serving boards after the holes are filled with epoxy. This would strengthen the board! 😊. My question is this....could this be wrapped in aluminum and left in the sun for a week or more to heat it up enough? I'm guessing that baking it in my oven wouldn't be good.
That resin might be good for something like a red cedar tabletop, to give the beautiful but soft wood the hardness and resistance to scarring it naturally lacks.
Super video. Your explanation on what you were doing and what was happening is by far the best I’ve seen on this topic. After viewing it I could easily try to do this myself. Once I’ve done more turning on my new lathe and have some cash for the equipment I just might give it a try. Thanks.
he brings it to a shine on the buffing wheel with wax from the beal buffing system. does this mean pre-treating it with cactus juice eliminate the need for applying your typical wood working finish?
Tried using CPES to stabilize some rotted pine beams, ended up disappointed with the result, did NOT penetrate well, only lasted a year or two. Of course, I didn't have a vacuum chamber - but it didn't say that was necessary, either. The stuff I tried was from The Rot Doctor, maybe this one is a better product? Question - why turn the wood on the lathe after infusing, wouldn't it be faster & waste less resin by infusing first?
Great video, Matt! Really nice hammers! Unless you already have, maybe you could also do an instructional-type video about working with resin. I've seen it in a lot of your projects, and you seem to have that process down cold....and it's something I would like to learn, without making any more costly mistakes than absolutely necessary! :-) BTW, I never would have thought of stabilizing punky wood with resin, nor did I know that there were products (and a process) made specifically for this! Very cool, and thanks for putting it out there!
Not complaining or criticizing, just asking: Why are the handles so short and wide? They're beautiful but they don't seem like they'd be very functional - lots of rapped knuckles. Could you have used this, still with the super rotten wood, to make a more typical hammer handle (~1-2" diameter, ~1' length), or would it not hold up to the sort of abuse that that would likely encounter?
The idea with these is they're useful for operations where you would choke up on the handle like chopping and cleaning up dovetails. More precision work where a lot of impact force isn't necessary. The short stubby handle fits comfortably in the palm of your hand while your fingers hold the brass head. But yes, you can make a handle any length you want
Would be nice to see a follow up on what these hammers are actually used for! I guess for chiseling, but when would you use these instead of the traditional wooden mallet? Or are they interchangeable and it comes down to just preference?
You have to love getting someone who has put in the time and effort to make it look so smooth and effortless, proving that you actually don't know what your doing. Lol
hahahaha
One of the best explanations of the whole resin stabilization process I've seen. Thanks.
I stabilized rotten wood all the time for knife handles. I love that spalted stuff you used!
Never heard of or knew of this process till I stumbled on to your site. Outstanding, Now I know what some of my friends are yakking about. Learn something everyday and I have - thank you
Wow. That is beautiful. Who would need a CNC lathe when you've got Dima. That man is a machine...😎
So true!
Two hands in air! Dema lives! Gorgeous hammer. The process is cool. Who knew cooking could be fun? ♥♥♥
great lesson thanks Matt and Happy Father's Day
That spalted maple is absolutely beautiful! What a great way to stabilize the decayed wood. Great job, Dema, in turning those little gems into a useful tool!
I have a concert-sized ukulele, the body of which is made entirely from spalted maple which is not only nice to play but is something to look at from an aesthetic point of view !
By the way, maple is probably my favourite tonewood for guitars, ukuleles etc...
The vacuum pump I ordered a few weeks ago is still on backorder so I just used the link in the description. Great explanation! Thanks Matt!
Looking forward to the Make somethibg video about it c:
Happy Father's Day Matt having kid's isn't it a great feeling.
It's amazing
Thanks for showing the turning in real time. It's cool to see a person from Minnesota doing these types of things. Thanks.
I’ve never baked wood soup before. Looks like it turned out great.
deliciously
Mad scientist Matt - great video and beautiful final product. Well done to Dema, besides.
It's amazing to see how you can make something so beautiful out of a piece of rotten wood. Thank you for sharing this interesting technique with us Matt. I look forward to your future experiments with dyes and other woods.
Dema had a good channel and I never missed a video. Too bad he dropped out.
Nice video on this.
Just got one of the hammers on Friday, love it. But I'm going to have to order another one, mine was "borrowed" by my wife. It's awesome to see the whole process thanks😀
Hahaha "and this is mine now"
Those are some awesome little hammers! Enjoyed seeing the process, Matt!
Love everything about these hammers!
Nice to see how my beautiful mallet was made. Great job Matt and Dema!
Those are really beautiful.
Neat process, good to see Dema again on screen.
Looks like a great way to make knife scales
Wow Matt....that turned out amazing!! What an interesting treatment to do to wood. This is one of the main examples of what you can learn on RUclips...who would have ever known you could take “punky” wood into a more solid piece of awesomeness!!!! I totally enjoyed this video and thank you very much!
Thanks Becky!
Heather mentioned a rolling pin, awesome idea. I think box wood burl would make some very nice faucet handles, door knockers, all kinds of things. Great post Mr Matthew.
A skew chisel on a lathe can produce a cleaner finish than sandpaper. Also never turn off your vacuum pump during the initial stage. Favorite part is when your kid asked to go to the shop and you said we in the shop lol.
Hey, you could add those metal weights that you used to hold down the wood in the epoxy as heat sinks/heat shields in the toaster oven. Placing them between the heating element and the wood could help even out the temperature within that tiny toaster oven, and protect the wood closest to the element from big swings in temperature.
Love the videos, Skol Vikings!
Handles look great Matt !
Thanks Joe!
Too nice to even use! No scratches on the brass!
Absolutely gorgeous! And that turning speed was amazing!
I love the look. Its like funky marble.
Matt, sometimes being subscribed to many channels makes me miss a video! Unfortunately I missed this one. So I’m late to comment. Sorry.
The process and results were very interesting to watch, especially when I get to see you and Dema together again! If you have any of the river blue colored resin left from the river tables, it might be cool to see that flowing through the voids of one of these handles.
Looks like they would make nice knife handles. Good job!
Those look awesome matt
Thanks!
awesome stuff Matt, loved the whole process it turned out incredible.
thank you!
Another step you could try is after the vac and soaking. Get a painter's pressure pot. (You will have to do a few mods to it). Put the whole container into the pot and pressurize it to 60 pounds for about 8 hours, then do your wrap and bake.
I like the idea that Heather has about making a rolling pins.
Dema's back. Back in town. Dema's back. Dema's back. Dema's back?
(Please come back.)
Michael Gomez lol
Love those hammers and that super spalted wood looks soooo cool. It's fantastic that your able to stabilize it enough to make it useful!
Fantastic job Matt they are awesome
That handle look like an awesome gear knob.
Always learning something new from you Matt, thanks!
You should totally build a set of coffee mug like this. It would be such a fun video
Very cool, and it's great to see Dema in front of the camera.
Good video Matt. Interesting use of otherwise useless wood. Good to see Dema again. Dema is apparently a mallet making machine. Thanks for the video.
He really is. Thanks Mike!
AWESOME job, love the mallet.
A BIG hint, when returning unused resin to the original container, filter it. I've found a cheap funnel can be made by cutting off the top portion of a two liter soft drink bottle and putting a fine screen toward the bottom. The funnel is disposable, and it will keep stray bits of foreign matter from contaminating your next project. ^_*
You could make an awesome rolling pin out of a longer piece.
Really cool process Matt and great job on the blanks! 👍👊 Dema's brass hammers are amazing! 😍 ...... About the two mallets, I think it's an optical illusion that the one is larger than the other, I believe that they're the same size but one only appears larger because it has a Fro on it! 😉😁
Very cool process, to go from basically wood you would toss to a incredible piece is so awesome. Oh and Dema that was freakin awesome how fast you’re able to produce a handle. Take care my friend
Matt - hopefully you'll read this. You need to run the vacuum pump continuously until all of the air is pulled out. If you just stop the pump and let it sit, you will not get all of the air out of the wood and therefore will not get maximum cactus juice penetration. Ask Curtis - the guy that makes the Cactus Juice. He's great at answering questions. Also look into getting one of his Oven Tamers fir your oven. You will get a more consistent temperature during the curing process which allows you to run the oven at a lower temp. That will result in less resin coming back out of the wood.
Leaping Lemur Craftworks the wood was so gone that it was soaked through before he hit the vacuum, on a more solid wood it is true you need to hold a vacuum longer.
Thanks for the reply Dema. I've not stabilized a piece that was that rotten. "How long do I need to run the pump" is a common question for those new to stabilizing - I know I asked it.....multiple times. The hammers have been looking great - been following you on IG.
Leaping Lemur Craftworks yeah it's definitely a learning curve, I've had some blanks with the pump running for 24 hours before, understanding the wood you're using is key and that knowledge doesn't come over night. This is matts first stabilize, I think he did good :)
For my mallet I just used some of the old oak chunk I use for my trailer block , once I cleaned it up it looked good . Made a smaller lighter dovetail mallet out of red oak , but it got stolen by my kid and now it’s a kid sized Thor’s hammer for him
Nice work fellas! Stabilizing is pretty fun stuff!
Great video. Thanks Matt!
shame is 90% of folks wouldn't know what they were looking at it would be lost on them. they would never have a clue of what went into it to make it nowadays. sad but true. nice worth the time.
Very beautiful!!
Solid work right there mate.
WOW!!! Don't know how I missed this video at the time of it's release (?!?), but I'm thrilled and confident that I will glean truly reliable, expert knowledge, as always! I'm actually looking into "stabilizing"(if it's applicable) a 6"-thick White Oak slab, for use as a heavy duty workbench. Wondering what the best material(s) would be, in your opinion, as well as wether you think it's even feasible or not. Thanks tons for any feedback, and thanks at least ONE ton, even if you don't respond! (Edit: btw, I LOVE the hammer! I'm a big fan of all sorts of the category of slightly heavier hammers, for all sorts of uses....things like in the "lump-hammer" range.... This one, with the short, thick handle, makes so much sense - tons of control for deft hammering!)
How much stabilizing does it need?
Matthew Cremona - So, that's the thing...it probably doesn't "need" any.... It's just that the few small checks will unnerve me, as I plan to be able to bolt-things-into/beat-on/have-for-a-lifetime, whatever I build, Lol. I certainly could just "fill in the cracks", but I'm in the "do it all the way, or not at all" type of mindset. Also, does this product REQUIRE a vacuum, or would a stupid amount of time also work? I'm imagining having to build a trough to soak the slab in, and turn it over after a week or so...or two... whatever....
@@samuelluria4744 If it's just cracks, regular epoxy would be fine. this stuff is more for hardening rot or making wood more dense for polishing.
Matthew Cremona - Thanks! I appreciate your valuable time! Stay warm!😉
I'll try!
Nice product!!! Happy to see ya back Dema. Get your video equipment back out or have Matt come over more often. JImE
That was a pretty cool process, and a interesting resin cured by heat. Kinda makes me wonder how it would look to do colored resin then cure with a torch. Less structural and more artsy use pretty much
Very nice, really enjoyed that video!!
Wow, Neillsville is like an hour away from me. Nice work on the handle too lol.
What do you think of stabilizing larger slabs of spalted wood for table etc.? 1st stabilizing the wood and then do all the other steps (epoxy pour, ssanding, finish etc.) so at the end you would have a nice solid spalted table. Is it cost effective and worth to do that. Did you ever tried it?
Very cool! Maybe you can use dyed resin to fill in other pieces that did not work and use as pen blanks or something.
My father worked in the 60-70's with wood, resin and vacuum to develop cores for x-country glass fiber skis. Apparently the resins he developed is something now produced commercially. If he had been a business man also ....
Wow! Those handles look great, especially considering how they started. Awesome to see Dema on the channel again. Wonder how well MDF would stabilize.
I think you're on to something...
Cool project I enjoyed it tremendously
Thank you!
very nice result !
Thanks!
Thanks for the heads up about that stuff. Totally new to me since I've never needed anything like it but know that I know about it, maybe I will look for stuff to use it on :p
Matt's cooking show! Right when I was typing it you said "wood baked potatoes"... LOL :D
hahahaha!
Another interesting video. Good result. Very nice!
I'm sitting here thinking about pressure treated timber in the UK. My understanding is that it's placed under a vacuum to get the air out, so the chemicals seep into the wood. I've read that it's the removal of the vacuum that helps force the chemicals in too - at the end of the soak. Basically restoring atmospheric pressure pushes chemicals into the wood.
Does this mean that you don't need to soak for quite that long?
Great project.
would be cool if you made more than just handles for hammers. could be handles/knobs for doors, cabinets, furniture, beer tap, etc. also would like to see some mini fat souvenir bats made from a similar wood.
Shop oven mitts! You always add new tools to my shopping list Cremona.
gobble gobble or bust
Exceptional video as usual Matt, thank you for sharing it with us. Quick question if you don’t mind please. When reading the written description that I googled then following the link here to the video, in neither did you say anything about putting the blanks in the oven to dry them out first before then putting them in the resin and vacuum. Did you pre-toast them as is recommended or did you just cut the blanks and put them in the resin as it would seem you did? Also, if you did toast them dry before resining, would it still work with some pieces of timber that have already been glued together or would the glue fail because of the heat? Any help you can give me would be really helpful if possible please. Again thank you for all your great teaching, you’ve helped me to become a much better and finer woodworker and I am eternally grateful mate. All the best from Down Under, hang in there and stay safe during this terribly difficult time mate, stay cool, see ya 😎👍🏻
Oooh, fluffy thing makes shiny things
you could make a fortune making shift knobs for cars :)
Now i have ideas, thank you
Super video again as usual Matt. Fascinating process, thanks.
Hey Matt, not sure where to ask this question, so I’ll just put it out here. Is Dema still making the small hammers! I just checked Etsy and nothing was shown on his site. After watching you stabilize the spalted wood and seeing him turn it, I went on and bought one immediately. I love that thing and wanted to get more for gifts…just wondering if you could direct me somewhere else for his stuff? Just rewatched and got me interested again. Thanks, jerre
Geez they look awesome!
Great video! Thanks for sharing. I'd like to hear more about the vacuum equipment that you choose. Any tips on what to look for? Those little hammers are so cool!
Hello from Tennessee! I have 2 boards (spalted maple) with huge holes made from worms. They would make really cool serving boards after the holes are filled with epoxy. This would strengthen the board! 😊. My question is this....could this be wrapped in aluminum and left in the sun for a week or more to heat it up enough? I'm guessing that baking it in my oven wouldn't be good.
Beautiful.
thanks!
Great information
We MISS DEMA!
Fantastic!
That resin might be good for something like a red cedar tabletop, to give the beautiful but soft wood the hardness and resistance to scarring it naturally lacks.
Super video. Your explanation on what you were doing and what was happening is by far the best I’ve seen on this topic. After viewing it I could easily try to do this myself. Once I’ve done more turning on my new lathe and have some cash for the equipment I just might give it a try. Thanks.
he brings it to a shine on the buffing wheel with wax from the beal buffing system. does this mean pre-treating it with cactus juice eliminate the need for applying your typical wood working finish?
I have one of those early ones too! Same handle
hammer buddies!
Great watch!
thanks!
Tried using CPES to stabilize some rotted pine beams, ended up disappointed with the result, did NOT penetrate well, only lasted a year or two. Of course, I didn't have a vacuum chamber - but it didn't say that was necessary, either. The stuff I tried was from The Rot Doctor, maybe this one is a better product?
Question - why turn the wood on the lathe after infusing, wouldn't it be faster & waste less resin by infusing first?
Great video, Matt! Really nice hammers! Unless you already have, maybe you could also do an instructional-type video about working with resin. I've seen it in a lot of your projects, and you seem to have that process down cold....and it's something I would like to learn, without making any more costly mistakes than absolutely necessary! :-) BTW, I never would have thought of stabilizing punky wood with resin, nor did I know that there were products (and a process) made specifically for this! Very cool, and thanks for putting it out there!
Lol. Sounded like his boy said, “I want to go and jump”, and he responded, “you’re in the shop”. *long pause*... (the boy says) “What?!”
Not complaining or criticizing, just asking: Why are the handles so short and wide? They're beautiful but they don't seem like they'd be very functional - lots of rapped knuckles. Could you have used this, still with the super rotten wood, to make a more typical hammer handle (~1-2" diameter, ~1' length), or would it not hold up to the sort of abuse that that would likely encounter?
The idea with these is they're useful for operations where you would choke up on the handle like chopping and cleaning up dovetails. More precision work where a lot of impact force isn't necessary. The short stubby handle fits comfortably in the palm of your hand while your fingers hold the brass head. But yes, you can make a handle any length you want
Ah, gotcha. I figured it was for precise work but I still couldn't see where my fingers would wind up. Thanks!
My first thought was...
Hand plane handles!
"I don't turn, like, ever" *stands in front of big fat lathe*
Best place to stand
Say you have a blackthorn walking stick or any walking stick for that matter, would this process still be applicable?
I would love this on my ballpeen hammer 👍👍👍
Would be nice to see a follow up on what these hammers are actually used for! I guess for chiseling, but when would you use these instead of the traditional wooden mallet? Or are they interchangeable and it comes down to just preference?
I can address that but yes for chiseling/detail work where you don't need much power behind the tool
fascinating video, thank you for posting.