I fit 37x12.5 even with only the 2" RC strut spacer lift, crash bars removed and rock sliders still in place (base, non Bilstein) 👍 These broncos rock 🤙
Installing the same lift on my wife’s Bronco Sasquatch. I misunderstood the instructions on a different guys video and thought the bottom spacer went on the back after I was already done with the front so I will have to take it back apart and put the spacer on the bottom side as well… I did the back correctly though and it’s looking good already. Also have some killer beadlock kmc wheels going on.. I did the JKS high clearance kit as well, think it could clear 40s depending on offset of wheels of course?
FYI, this will not gain you any articulation as the Bronco is not limited by its UCA, it’s limited by the shock. You are actually sacrificing downtravel with the spring preload
I don't think that's accurate - the Bronco is most definitely limited by it's UCA. The shock's height doesn't matter when you're allowing for more droop angle.
@@JacobRDoty anyways, you can check for yourself. Take the UCAs off the truck, put them side by side and bend the joint all the way. And to Your point about shock height, I’m not even gonna try to fix what’s wrong with that statement😊
@JacobRDoty the shock is what stops the suspension from fully drooping. If the joints were the actual limit you'd break shit left and right. Having more angle in the joints does allow more travel but you aren't getting anymore travel unless you replace the shocks. The problem here is the cheapo spacer lifts move the shock and destroys the geometry. Now at full droop the joints can be comprised
@Jacob R. Doty ya I put a tie rod sleeve on since I heard they're kinda weak. Figured cheaper fix for now over replacing them. But might have to do the ucas at some point
Stock wheels and a true 37? The stock wheels don't push out as much as my aftermarket wheels (-30 offset) and different brands run smaller/larger depending.
@JacobRDoty yeah stock wheels will let you get away with it alot of times they are the stock white wagon wheels the tires are 37 12.50 also not a fat tire in a BFG all terrain it was the only one I could get in a white letter for the old school look
I fit 37x12.5 even with only the 2" RC strut spacer lift, crash bars removed and rock sliders still in place (base, non Bilstein) 👍 These broncos rock 🤙
Dude hell yeah! Looks amazing
Thank you brotha!
Installing the same lift on my wife’s Bronco Sasquatch. I misunderstood the instructions on a different guys video and thought the bottom spacer went on the back after I was already done with the front so I will have to take it back apart and put the spacer on the bottom side as well… I did the back correctly though and it’s looking good already. Also have some killer beadlock kmc wheels going on.. I did the JKS high clearance kit as well, think it could clear 40s depending on offset of wheels of course?
Fabulous Jacob, can't wait to see it with the new wheels. Bet it's a lot of fun to drive. 😎👍
Thank you! Yessir it is. The mustang hasn’t been getting nearly as much love lately
I swapped my stock shocks with adjustable bilstein 6100s; very nice
Can wait to see it out on some trails flexed out ish.
Soon! I’m itching to get it up in the mountains and camp
Would you recommend loctite red [loctite 263] or green [loctite 290]?. Or would you not recommend thread locker at all?
I wouldn't do 263. 263 is permanent loctite. I'd do a medium hold and I think you'd be fine. 243 has been great for most all of my installs.
Looks great! If you don’t mind answering, what is the highest point of your roof from ground to top after the lift and wheels and tires are on?
FYI, this will not gain you any articulation as the Bronco is not limited by its UCA, it’s limited by the shock. You are actually sacrificing downtravel with the spring preload
I don't think that's accurate - the Bronco is most definitely limited by it's UCA. The shock's height doesn't matter when you're allowing for more droop angle.
@@JacobRDoty anyways, you can check for yourself. Take the UCAs off the truck, put them side by side and bend the joint all the way. And to Your point about shock height, I’m not even gonna try to fix what’s wrong with that statement😊
I am actually really curious to learn if you can share
@JacobRDoty the shock is what stops the suspension from fully drooping. If the joints were the actual limit you'd break shit left and right. Having more angle in the joints does allow more travel but you aren't getting anymore travel unless you replace the shocks. The problem here is the cheapo spacer lifts move the shock and destroys the geometry. Now at full droop the joints can be comprised
where is the link to the video you mentioned on how you opened the lower control arm? thanks!
That’s good stuff 👍🏾😎
Thanks man!
Looks good!
Thank you!
Do you feel the ucas are necessary for 37s?
Not needed for specifically upgrading tire size. I do enjoy peace of mind for beefier components and bushings, though.
@Jacob R. Doty ya I put a tie rod sleeve on since I heard they're kinda weak. Figured cheaper fix for now over replacing them. But might have to do the ucas at some point
Idk I put 37s on my 24 heritage with a sasquatch package with no rub stock wheels
Stock wheels and a true 37? The stock wheels don't push out as much as my aftermarket wheels (-30 offset) and different brands run smaller/larger depending.
@JacobRDoty yeah stock wheels will let you get away with it alot of times they are the stock white wagon wheels the tires are 37 12.50 also not a fat tire in a BFG all terrain it was the only one I could get in a white letter for the old school look
#dotygang #dotyeti 🤩
did you use factory track bar or did you use relocation bracket or adjustable track bar