When installing a new gear set. Measure and use your old pinion shim first. No crush sleeve. Tighten pinion nut to 14" pounds pinion preload. Set backlash on gears you are using 2 or 5 cut. Add gear marking compound. Rotate the marking compound into the pinion gear back and fourth. If posi then use the axle shaft and a long screw driver. Check pattern. Add or subtract at .003 to achieve pattern. Pattern should be in the center of the tooth. Towards the toe to center if new gear set. Used gears always set up on the coast side. Once close to a perfect pattern. Make sure pattern is not too deep in the root= thinner shim. Or crown = thicker shim. After market gear sets can give you grief. Always check gear pattern on pinion gear too. It's the opposite of the ring gear. In the root of the pinion = thicker. Towards the crown thinner. OEM new or choice used, AAM or US Gear. Not USA, Yukon, motive, Richmond, Cha gears or itilay... To list a few.
Thank you for your comments on your experience. This is a great procedure if you don't have a depth gauge and or a depth specification. I would like to offer my input on your process for those who may read this. 1) 14" pounds would be rotational break away force and it's critical to have some preload for this however even a few inch pounds if fine for determining pinion position. 2) When rotating to get your contact patch the more load that is placed on the ring gear while doing this the better the pattern will be. I find that by placing a rag around the pinion flange and pulling on it to make it difficult to rotate the pinion while turning the ring gear by hand works really well. place just enough rotational friction with the pulling force on the rag to make it really difficult to rotate the ring gear by hand. 3) Adding or subtracting .003" at a time might might take your forever. Especially with an aftermarket gear and a different gear ratio. I'm working on one now that needed almost .090" depth shim change to get it close. I have found that all differentials are different. Some or more sensitive to .003" - .010" shim change than others. No one wants to add or subtract only to discover they went the wrong way so you should know how to read a pattern. See my video on contact patch and pinion depth to determine which way to move the pinion. 4) I disagree with using the coast side. The drive side (Convex side) is the side that caries most of the load most of the time and this is the side that should be your most concern. I noted the drive side is the convex side just in case you are calling the convex side the coast side. I will note that on 4x4 trucks with a front differential that is flipped so the pinion is on top instead of the bottom that the concave side of the tooth is the drive side. In all other circumstances the concave side is the coast side. 5) I'm not sure what you are calling the root or the crown. I'm not sure if you are in the US or another country but I the terminology I have always used is: Toe: Inner part of the tooth. Heel: outer part of the tooth. Face: Top part of the tooth. Flank: down deep into the tooth. 6) Giving advise as to using a thicker or thinner shim is dangerous unless you know the differential design. The two designs are overhung and straddle mount and the location of the depth shim is different and the results from a thicker or thinner shim are opposite. a thinner shim on an overhung design increases pinion depth (moves pinion farther from ring gear centerline) where on a straddle mount a thinner shim decreases pinion depth moving the pinion closer to the ring gear centerline. I have had no problem with Yukon gears and I don't hesitate to recommend them. This is a personal choice by experience and I respect your experiences. Thank you again for commenting and sharing.
@@DrivelineMaster What I did.... First the gear people must want the process to be one step from nuclear fusion if you know what I mean. Not everyone has the tools, .000 to 6.000 depth micrometers, that a retired machine repairman has so companies duplicate what the people that make rear ends do in their process to build diffs, quickly. If you measure the pinion gear from the face to the surface where it sits on the bearing (with shims) and add this to the pinion depth indicated on the face of the pinion you will have the dimension to the bearing face you need. Example, I have a pinion from a 10 bolt in my old Chevelle. Pinion depth indicated is 2.531, add the thickness of the gear 1.646, total 4.177. This tells me where the bearing face needs to be. Using a depth micrometer, I measured the distance in the housing from the split where the carrier bearings fit, then I measured the cap from the split face, then split the difference between the two. This told me exactly where the centerline of the carrier was as they are not exact. Then using a piece of all thread and a small block of half inch thick cold rolled I duplicated, some what, the factory tool to tighten the pinion bearings in place. With a parallel across the split I measured to the block on the bearing. Subtracting the .500 block and the size of the parallel I had the distance to the bearing face. Add the shims to make the 4.177 distance and put it together. Look for Kent Moore tool J-6266, this will help you find what GM uses. Old GM gears don't have a machined face, ones I found for the 64' didn't, so this is how they did it. In addition for those of you that decide to try this and get a set of depth mics, I see they are dirt cheep, you'll have to have them checked by someone that has access to gauge blocks to confirm the readings on the mic using the different size stems.
This is a great work around for those who were able to follow your process, do the math and have the tools. With this many steps of measurement accuracy in each measurement is critical and often influences the overall accuracy of the depth measurement. I always teach that it is better to measure once than twice. For example when measuring an engine cylinder. I can use an inside micrometer or a dial bore gauge or I can use telescoping gauges and an outside micrometer. The telescoping gauges and outside micrometer method is two steps witch adds a higher degree of possible inaccuracy. However if you don't have the one step measurement tools and you are really careful you can get really close and it's better than nothing. I may try your method one day when I have time to play. I found it interesting but I did have to read it twice to follow exactly what you were doing.
@@DrivelineMaster Thank you for the reply. Your method indeed removes steps from my process. If you had a design change that allowed you to obtain the distance to the face of the bearing it would be a one time assembly of the pinion and bearings. At nineteen years of age I started a thirty year stent at the E.W. Bliss Company, a builder of huge machinery. I walked in a laborer and left a tradesman. My method is based on how things were done there, using the brain sitting on your shoulders. Again thanks for reading my reply.
Very nice explanation, thank you for demonstrating this process! I have the factory service manual for my truck that has the written process, so much better to see it done.
I have that same pinion depth setup tool set, I use the aluminum discs for my home made true-bar to straighten bent housings. That set costs over $800 as of 2019, using it to straighten bent housings with a true-bar setup with a long 1 inch stainless steel bar has paid for itself 100 fold and then some. Bottom line, the tool set can be used for dual purpose, thus recovering your investment. $$$$ From Russia, with LOVE....
Thanks. In the US the deluxe tool model # 11001 us just under $500.00 (www.amazon.com/Machine-Products-11001-Deluxe-Checker/dp/B003OU2DXU?ref_=ast_bbp_dp) as of 12/25/2019
@@DrivelineMaster yes Sir. Dope means its pretty awesome. Ive rebuilt a differential before but not knowing about this measurement could have been catastrophic. Thanks again.👍
Hi i noticed that the dial indicator was not calibrated back to zero right before you took your final reading the dial needle was at .80 which is 20thou off original calibration was this a mistake or a missed step in the video ? thanks
Actually what happened is that once you take the steel tube off of the dial plunger it will allow the plunger to come out further throwing the needle off but it is exactly zero at 3.375 so although the needle was at 80 without the steel tube on it, it is calibrated at zero once you slide the steel calibration tube onto the plunger.
thanks for the video I just have a question about this magnetic spacer , does its thickness affect the measurement ? as the tip of dial indicator dont touch directly the surface of pinion
The magnetic spacer does influence the measurement but the tool manufacture has built that into the tool so no calculations are needed and you don't need to measure the magnet.
Great video, I use the same tool and currently setting up a dodge 9.25 rear diff but aluminum spacers to small for the saddles, are there additional spacers available for the 9.25 diff
There may be two things you can do if the saddle spacers are a little small. (1) If you contact the company and give them the numbers on the bearing cup they will machine and sell you the proper size saddle spacers. (2) If it seems like it's only a few thousandth of an inch I have purchased what is called "Shim in a Can". I normally get this in .004" brass or steel. Cut a small strip and place it between the bearing cap and saddle spacer. Not between the housing and saddle spacer because this would alter the measurement. Then tighten the bearing caps but you may have to use less than 25 foot pounds to allow the shaft to rotate. Good Luck.
@@DrivelineMaster Thanks for the reply, I’ll call on Tuesday, if it takes to long to get them, I’ll just measure from top of saddle to top of pinion since that’s axle center line. Have a great 4TH
How do you measure including the magnetic block and still get the pinion offset? Isn't that offset from the magnetic block plus pinion? I guess how the calibrated sleeve and extension account for the thickness of the magnetic block by being made shorter by the thickness of the magnetic block? If that is so, then the numbers still work out but the way the process is described here without mentioning the contribution from the magnetic block can make the observed process confusing. What am I missing?
Hi Alex, You are correct that the thickness of the magnet is engineered into the calibration tool. You aren't missing anything. I didn't anticipate this question when I created the video and I should have explained that within the video. You are not the only person to ask this question.
Google T&D Machine Pinion Depth Tool and you will find it available online. This covers almost all USA domestic vehicles. Ford, GM, & Chrysler. I have found ways to make it work with some Asian vehicles and T&D will custom machine you saddle spacers for specific differentials if you contact them with the case bearing numbers. Yes, it works on front and rear differentials if you have a 4x4 vehicle.
So if the pinion bearing beds a shim added or removed to obtain proper centerline specs, the new bearing has to be removed in order to add or remove shims? Is there a way to remove the new bearing without damaging it ?
Yes, the bearing can be removed with the proper bearing splitter and a hydraulic press. Shops that build similar diffs on a regular basis with take a brand new bearing and hone out the inner race just a few thousands of an inch so the bearing just barely slides onto the pinion without pressing it. This is called a dummy bearing. That way it slides on and off with a little finesse and a small amount of hand force. This makes for a quick change shim to find the right one. Once the correct shim is found a new bearing is pressed onto the pinion and the dummy bearing goes into the tool box ready for the next job that uses that size bearing.
Thanks for the tutorial! Do you know if this will work for Ford Motorsport Performance Parts 8.8 pinion gears? They don't have a machined face on the pinion and I've read some weird ways to set pinion depth with them.
This is a nice tool, but just a heads up for people who might want to invest into something like this, if you purchase OEM Ford gears or Ford racing gears the pinion heads are not smooth they have a cast like surface which is rough and can through off measurements slightly with this tool. Instead I recommend the pinion depth tool that Freedom Racing sells. It’s the exact tool Ford recommended when setting up the pinion in the 8.8 housings, and way easier for setup with a quick measurement method that accurately sets your pinion depth the first time without having to worry about pressing on and off any bearings.
OEM tools are always the best way to go and if all I did was setup Ford differentials I would consider investing in the factory tool. Universal tools provide more flexibility for a shop or individual who may need to setup differentials from multiple manufactures. I always use the contact patch as my final setup decision. You can check out my video on Pinion Depth and Contact Patch Explained. As another note most pinion gears do not have a machined surface on the head where the magnet sits so there is always a chance of error however .001" to .002" is normally acceptable. Also note that OEM gearsets will not provide you with the pinion depth value like an aftermarket gearset will. That is why it's important to understand the contact patch. One last final note. If you are replacing the gears with the same gear ratio you can often reuse the depth shim. Just make sure to check the contact patch when your done.
@@DrivelineMaster totally agree that the tool you are using has a much larger selection of vehicles to setup ring and pinion. The tool Ford recommends does not require the pinion depth value. The value will get you close but the Ford 8.8 housings have manufacturer differences, so it’s just a number to get you close much like using the previous pinion shim. There is a specific reason why Ford doesn’t stamp there pinion value on the head of there pinion bc the value might work for one housing but not the next also that value would have to come from a specific pinion bearing selection as well bc different types of bearings will sway that value. The aftermarket types that do put the value on the pinion is not an advantage in my opinion. I like the Ford tool bc it doesn’t require any special attention to pinion bearing selection, unlike the tool you are using. It also doesn’t require the any pressing on and off of any pinion bearings either. It’s a multi piece kit that is put together to take the place of your pinion for mock up, and provides a one time measurement that accurate the first time. There’s no guessing or hoping the pattern will work out. It’s dead nuts every-time. Like you said using the old shim will get you very close, but that method will always have variables that can sway your reading things like the pinion bearing selection previously used, housing differences and selection of ring and pinion from either Ford or aftermarket types. The tool you are using also requires the use of the pinion and new bearing which is a pain if you just so happen to need an adjustment. It requires pressing off the bearing and changing shims or some guys try and modify an old bearing but that just opens up more room for error. The Ford tool is definitely superior than the dial indicator type you are using for Ford rear ends but if you are setting up different types of rear ends I totally understand why you went with the tool you are using.
Yes, I have used the Ford tool and other factory tools. I agree the Factory Ford tool is more accurate and a real no brainer. Toyota uses something similar. As far as pressing and un-pressing I normally purchase a second set of bearings and hone out the inside diameter just enough to slide it on and off of the pinion. I know this induces a small amount of possible error but it is minimal. I keep that bearing set for reuse on any future diffs that use the same bearings. This trick also works with setting up case bearing position and preload on Dana diffs that put the case shims behind the case bearings. Thanks for you input and insight.
Hi thanks for the explanation, I’ve been trying to use this tool. What am I doing wrong or what does it mean when the measurements are asking me to reduce the shims but I don’t have enough to reduce. I’m on negative.
This could mean several things. One, you may be looking at the numbers backwards. It's easy to confuse adding and subtracting shims. What does the gauge read? Big and little dial? What did you calibrate zero to? 3.375", 2.5" or 1.9"? What number did you come up with for your measured pinion depth? What is the preferred pinion depth stamped onto your new pinion? If you did all the reading, calibrating and measurement correct and you aren't confusing the need to add shims when you need to subtract the other possibilities are: The bearing race is not properly seated into the housing. The rear pinon bearing is not properly seated all the way against the head of the pinion and sometimes the there is a problem with the gearset. It just won't work in your housing. You can always try installing with zero shims and view my video about contact patch and pinion depth to see how far off your depth really is. if you want to write back with additional info I will try to help you.
Pinion bearing preload is a separate item from pinion depth. If you are reusing the same ring and pinion gear and only changing your pinion bearings you should be able to use the same pinion depth shim without a problem. If you are changing gear ratios or putting in an aftermarket gearset depth will need to be checked and most likely adjusted. You don't need the tool if you want to do a little trial and error method. Watch my video on pinion depth and contact patch. You can do a temporary depth setup on your pinion and run a contact patch. if the patch shows the depth is off remove the pinion shim and add or subtract, reassemble and test again. Normally between 2 to 4 times of doing this and you can dial the depth in and you don't need the gauge tool.
@@DrivelineMaster Thank you for clearing that up Sir. I have a manual and it say to do this step but all I was doing is changing the bearings in the differential so it seems like so can use the same shim and continue with assembly. I will sub to you channel.
The T & D pinion depth tool used in the video comes with 3 calibration plugs for different depths. 3.375", 2.5" and 1.900". If you are using this tool and you need something shorter than 3.375" just use the 2.5" calibration plug. Are you using the same gear ratio? If so, you can start with the same size depth shim and check your depth by gear contact patch. You can check out my video's on contact patch and pinion depth. Depending on the contact patch you can increase or decrease the pinion depth shim by .005' - .006" and recheck. This method is a bit of trial and error but if you know how to read a contact patch you should be able to dial in the pinion depth within 2 o 4 adjustments. Some technicians will purchase a second set of pinion bearings and use a small bore hone similar to what would be used for wheel cylinders or a small engine to remove a few thousandth of on inch from the inside diameter of the bearings so they just barely slide onto the drive pinion. That way it's easy to swap out depth shims without having to use a press each time. Once you find the correct depth shim based on contact patch replace the setup pinion bearing with the one that has to be pressed on. Don't use the one you honed out for your final assembly. Your rebuild longevity will be compromised.
I have this tool...i was getting different reading going back and forth with same shim...i was going nuts..until i find out the pignion head , the flat suface where the magnet goes wasnt dead flat..it had a low spot...i waisted my time and endup with an approx reading I will suggest first to check on that pignon surface with a dial indicator first to make sur its dead flat Also i used on 4.56 gear set. Pignion head is smaller I had to hold the nagnet with a finger
Good Idea but the reality is that none of the manufacture will use the pinion for pinion depth. They all use precision dummy shafts and precision spacer blocks so this tool will always be a little off and the pinion head is never machined near perfectly flat. Although not shown in the video I will often take the new pinion and give it a few strokes of 320 emery paper on a flat granite block to knock off high spots. If you do this make sure to write down the pinion depth markings first just in case you end up removing them. Second I always apply a little finger pressure on the magnet to keep it up against the pinion head when taking my measurement. Finally I use the contact patch to determine if the depth is correct and adjust from there. This tool if it doesn't get your perfect it will get you darn close. I never use the crush sleeve and install the pinion seal until I have set it up once and done a pattern. Once I'm happy with the pattern I then install the crush sleeve and seal for the final assembly.
I just bought the tool to set up my own rearends and was curious what is tolerable between aftermarket gearsets. My depth on my motive gear was 2.859 and I ended up with 2.855ish is that close enough or no? Also I forgot to put the yoke on and add some preload with the old crush sleeve but will this change the depth or no? Since the old yoke I have for now is tight to slide on the splines
First of all you do need to put the yoke on but no need for the crush sleeve. You do need to tighten the yoke until you get around 15 - 20 in lbs. of rotational force if you want an accurate pinion depth reading. Over the years I have noticed that with larger differentials above 9" ring gears a few thousandths of an inch won't matter too much however on smaller diffs they tend to be a little more sensitive to a few thousandth of an inch. What interest me is that gear manufactures do not provide a specification range but instead an exact value. Although the tools we have can be quite accurate there is always room for a few thousandth of an inch in error. At the end of the day it will all be about the contact patch. The pinion depth tool get you close but sometimes I end up changing the depth based on the contact patch. Check out my video on pinion depth and contact patch. ruclips.net/video/w2kneEjXw6E/видео.html
Yes, the engineers compensated for the thickness of the magnet into the calibration. A lot of people asked this question. I now wish that I included that answer within the video.
Use the original spacer that came from the original pinion. If you don't know where to start you can start with .025" - .035". This is a good starting point for most differentials as long as your not making a huge ratio change.
Sorry for the delayed response. If you purchase an aftermarket ring and pinion gear set the manufacture will scribe the pinion depth value on the head of the new drive pinion. Factory replacement gears typically will not have the depth value marked on the head. There is a way to calculate the depth on USA domestic rear axles by using the master housing depth and measuring the size of the pinion head. I always use a contact patch as my final determination to verify if the depth is correct.
Boost V8 chevy there are several parts to set up this the first next is the torque the other end of the pinion it the preload then you move on to the career for how much back lash and where the ring a pinion mesh you use marking lube to know to shift it left or right then depending on what axle you have you may need to shim them so I guess your answer is no
This is used as the first stages of setup. The pinion is placed into location with a starter shim and snugged down so it won't move around and has minimum preload on the pinion bearings. After using this tool and adjusting pinion depth shim you will need to watch my video on installing the case and adjusting the backlash and case bearing preload. Once this is done a contact patch should be taken (another video)to verify correct pinion depth. If the pattern is off you will need to change the pinion depth shim to correct the pinion depth and repeat the process of installing the case and taking another contact patch. Keep doing this until the patch is where you want it. Then you can install the pinion and seal and crush the crush sleeve for the final preload. Then do your final case setup and your done.
Hi, first thanks for the, in my opinion, best explaining videos for differential rebuilding. You helped me a lot. :* But where can I get the calibrating tools for the gauge? I cant find it. What is the name for it? Second way is to machine them. But it sounds, that you can just buy it anywhere if you know the right nam. ;)
Google T&D Pinion Depth tool. I found it can be purchased from Amazon using this link. www.amazon.com/Machine-Products-11001-Deluxe-Checker/dp/B003OU2DXU
I wish there was a formula but there isn't. A lot depends on the design and cut on the gear. Additionally, it's not proportional which means changing the depth by .010" might change the backlash by .008" but an additional .010" might change the Backlash by .012". One other note, Most of the time depth is done first, then the case and ring gear is installed and backlash is setup from there. You might want to check out a few of my other differential videos.
@@DrivelineMaster What I did was bought 2 of the same brand pinion bearings bored out one too use to set pinion depth and set backlash to .006 used the marking compound and everything was good ,Pressed on new pinion bearing put everything back to double check and the backlash was around .008 to 9 and seems to ride more towards the heel,,BTW Thanks for getting back to me I appreciate it
There is always a little wiggle room with backlash and as long as you are within the tolerances your good. Never worry about being perfectly in the middle of the specification that reality is not always possible. I'm assuming your differential uses case bearing shims because you would not be able to do what you described with threaded adjusters. I suppose if you have a straddle mount differential that has the removable pinion housing this is possible. If your backlash is slightly out of specifications after installing the pressed on the pinion bearings it's only a matter of a small manipulation of case bearings shims to fix the problem. For every .002" case bearing shim change you should get close to .001" backlash change. Take .004" away from the thickness on the shim farthest away from the ring gear and increase the shim closest to the ring gear by .004" and that should dial your backlash to very close to .006" to .007" again. Also having backlash that is the same all the way around is also not realistic. There is almost always some variation. What kind of diff is this? Did you also setup your case bearing preload with the dummy pinion bearings in place? If you never setup case bearing preload it could easily move on you causing the backlash change.
@@DrivelineMaster Thanks for getting back to me ..I Forgot to tell you its a 10 bolt GM with the 7.5 ring gear ,,,installing a dura grip yukon carrier with the yukon gears ,Yes set the preload with the shims and dialed everything in ,But it changed after pressing the bearing on pinion ,,I Guess the bearings are not alike even using the same brand ,I did readjust the BL but did not like the pattern with the pressed on bearing
Patterns are also a bit tricky and hard to get perfect. When doing a mock setup with dummy bearings it's not common to use the crush sleeve. If you left the crush sleeve off during this part that could play a part in the misalignment. If you used an crush sleeve eliminator kit that could eliminate that possibility. Additionally the bearing that was honed out could seat slightly different. The pressed on bearing expands the inner race which will effect the way the bearings seat against the cup. This has a tiny effect on pinion depth but normally not enough to make a difference. I don't think the bearings were different I just think they sit differently when pressed on as compared to being honed out. As long as the pattern is not running off any of the teeth edges you will be fine. If these are new gears don't forget to break them in. Yukon has break-in instructions.
Most likely depending on application. It really should have read 3.25" For a small to medium size vehicle that would be a large pinion depth. If it's a larger truck it is possible.
The one I use is made by OTC. Google OTC Differential holder. I found this on Amazon. www.amazon.com/OTC-7020-Bench-Mounted-Holding-Fixture/dp/B00063XZ7Q/ref=asc_df_B00063XZ7Q/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312174136943&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17724246352267445796&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032064&hvtargid=pla-568857223602&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=63790029762&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312174136943&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17724246352267445796&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032064&hvtargid=pla-568857223602
Im lost at the gauge of set before measurement would that not be 30 thousandth that it moved up that ruins the whole video if you change the calibration explain in the video
I just reviewed the video and all is correct. I'm uncertain where you see .030". The only thing I can think of is that you are including the amount of Preload I placed on the dial gauge when I calibrated it. Is that it? The calibration value of 3.375" sets the zero point on the dial. If the dial reads exactly zero for both inner and outer dial readings then the distance or depth is exactly 3.375". Any value on the gauge is less than 3.375". The gauge is preloaded just in case the the distance is a few thousandth of an inch larger than 3.375". If this is not what you are referring to please write me back. Maybe give me an time stamp on the video so I can see what is confusing you.
If you are careful it doesn't matter however I have at times rested the calibration plug on the work bench and let the whole fixture stand up on the calibration plug without touching the fixture to verify the zero setting. This removes the human element of uneven pressure on the plug as you suggest could happen by using my thumb.
Yes, you did miss something. The calibration plug is no longer on the setup. the 0.080" you see is actually 0.020" preload. When the calibration plug is removed the plunger is allowed to fully extend and when it did it went to 0.080" which is actually the 0.020" preload I put on the plunger when I zeroed the dial.
I'm sorry you feel that way. Yes pinion depth can be done by trial and error without a tool. Yes, most often if you replace with the same OEM ring and pinion you can use the same shim. But making sure the pinion depth is correct my measurement or contact patch is extremely important and not a waste of time if you want your diff build to last and not make noise. Some viewers would like to know how this is done so I made the video.
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The best video I’ve seen so far thank you !!
Very clear and consise. So much better than reading the instructions.
When installing a new gear set. Measure and use your old pinion shim first. No crush sleeve. Tighten pinion nut to 14" pounds pinion preload. Set backlash on gears you are using 2 or 5 cut. Add gear marking compound. Rotate the marking compound into the pinion gear back and fourth. If posi then use the axle shaft and a long screw driver. Check pattern. Add or subtract at .003 to achieve pattern. Pattern should be in the center of the tooth. Towards the toe to center if new gear set. Used gears always set up on the coast side. Once close to a perfect pattern. Make sure pattern is not too deep in the root= thinner shim. Or crown = thicker shim. After market gear sets can give you grief. Always check gear pattern on pinion gear too. It's the opposite of the ring gear. In the root of the pinion = thicker. Towards the crown thinner. OEM new or choice used, AAM or US Gear. Not USA, Yukon, motive, Richmond, Cha gears or itilay... To list a few.
Thank you for your comments on your experience. This is a great procedure if you don't have a depth gauge and or a depth specification. I would like to offer my input on your process for those who may read this. 1) 14" pounds would be rotational break away force and it's critical to have some preload for this however even a few inch pounds if fine for determining pinion position. 2) When rotating to get your contact patch the more load that is placed on the ring gear while doing this the better the pattern will be. I find that by placing a rag around the pinion flange and pulling on it to make it difficult to rotate the pinion while turning the ring gear by hand works really well. place just enough rotational friction with the pulling force on the rag to make it really difficult to rotate the ring gear by hand. 3) Adding or subtracting .003" at a time might might take your forever. Especially with an aftermarket gear and a different gear ratio. I'm working on one now that needed almost .090" depth shim change to get it close. I have found that all differentials are different. Some or more sensitive to .003" - .010" shim change than others. No one wants to add or subtract only to discover they went the wrong way so you should know how to read a pattern. See my video on contact patch and pinion depth to determine which way to move the pinion. 4) I disagree with using the coast side. The drive side (Convex side) is the side that caries most of the load most of the time and this is the side that should be your most concern. I noted the drive side is the convex side just in case you are calling the convex side the coast side. I will note that on 4x4 trucks with a front differential that is flipped so the pinion is on top instead of the bottom that the concave side of the tooth is the drive side. In all other circumstances the concave side is the coast side. 5) I'm not sure what you are calling the root or the crown. I'm not sure if you are in the US or another country but I the terminology I have always used is: Toe: Inner part of the tooth. Heel: outer part of the tooth. Face: Top part of the tooth. Flank: down deep into the tooth. 6) Giving advise as to using a thicker or thinner shim is dangerous unless you know the differential design. The two designs are overhung and straddle mount and the location of the depth shim is different and the results from a thicker or thinner shim are opposite. a thinner shim on an overhung design increases pinion depth (moves pinion farther from ring gear centerline) where on a straddle mount a thinner shim decreases pinion depth moving the pinion closer to the ring gear centerline. I have had no problem with Yukon gears and I don't hesitate to recommend them. This is a personal choice by experience and I respect your experiences. Thank you again for commenting and sharing.
@@DrivelineMaster What I did.... First the gear people must want the process to be one step from nuclear fusion if you know what I mean. Not everyone has the tools, .000 to 6.000 depth micrometers, that a retired machine repairman has so companies duplicate what the people that make rear ends do in their process to build diffs, quickly. If you measure the pinion gear from the face to the surface where it sits on the bearing (with shims) and add this to the pinion depth indicated on the face of the pinion you will have the dimension to the bearing face you need. Example, I have a pinion from a 10 bolt in my old Chevelle. Pinion depth indicated is 2.531, add the thickness of the gear 1.646, total 4.177. This tells me where the bearing face needs to be. Using a depth micrometer, I measured the distance in the housing from the split where the carrier bearings fit, then I measured the cap from the split face, then split the difference between the two. This told me exactly where the centerline of the carrier was as they are not exact. Then using a piece of all thread and a small block of half inch thick cold rolled I duplicated, some what, the factory tool to tighten the pinion bearings in place. With a parallel across the split I measured to the block on the bearing. Subtracting the .500 block and the size of the parallel I had the distance to the bearing face. Add the shims to make the 4.177 distance and put it together. Look for Kent Moore tool J-6266, this will help you find what GM uses. Old GM gears don't have a machined face, ones I found for the 64' didn't, so this is how they did it. In addition for those of you that decide to try this and get a set of depth mics, I see they are dirt cheep, you'll have to have them checked by someone that has access to gauge blocks to confirm the readings on the mic using the different size stems.
This is a great work around for those who were able to follow your process, do the math and have the tools. With this many steps of measurement accuracy in each measurement is critical and often influences the overall accuracy of the depth measurement. I always teach that it is better to measure once than twice. For example when measuring an engine cylinder. I can use an inside micrometer or a dial bore gauge or I can use telescoping gauges and an outside micrometer. The telescoping gauges and outside micrometer method is two steps witch adds a higher degree of possible inaccuracy. However if you don't have the one step measurement tools and you are really careful you can get really close and it's better than nothing. I may try your method one day when I have time to play. I found it interesting but I did have to read it twice to follow exactly what you were doing.
@@DrivelineMaster Thank you for the reply. Your method indeed removes steps from my process. If you had a design change that allowed you to obtain the distance to the face of the bearing it would be a one time assembly of the pinion and bearings. At nineteen years of age I started a thirty year stent at the E.W. Bliss Company, a builder of huge machinery. I walked in a laborer and left a tradesman. My method is based on how things were done there, using the brain sitting on your shoulders. Again thanks for reading my reply.
Very nice explanation, thank you for demonstrating this process! I have the factory service manual for my truck that has the written process, so much better to see it done.
Thank you, i've only done this once in a hands on traning class many of years ago. I fully understand it now!
I have that same pinion depth setup tool set, I use the aluminum discs for my home made true-bar to straighten bent housings. That set costs over $800 as of 2019, using it to straighten bent housings with a true-bar setup with a long 1 inch stainless steel bar has paid for itself 100 fold and then some. Bottom line, the tool set can be used for dual purpose, thus recovering your investment. $$$$
From Russia, with LOVE....
Thanks. In the US the deluxe tool model # 11001 us just under $500.00 (www.amazon.com/Machine-Products-11001-Deluxe-Checker/dp/B003OU2DXU?ref_=ast_bbp_dp) as of 12/25/2019
That's pretty dope. Never seen or heard of this procedure. Thanks for sharing.
I hope that when something is pretty dope that that is a good thing. I'm an old timer and in my time dope was for getting high.
@@DrivelineMaster yes Sir.
Dope means its pretty awesome.
Ive rebuilt a differential before but not knowing about this measurement could have been catastrophic.
Thanks again.👍
Thank you very much. This is exactly what I needed.
Don't you have to calculate the thickness of the magnetic measuring shim?
I believe that's accounted for in the calibration tubes.
Yes, the magnet thickness was compensated for by the tool manufacture
The magnet thickness has been engineered into the tool.
DrivelineMaster so the magnet spacer thickness is included in the 3.375 ?
Yes
Thank you sir. That was very comprehensive and easy to understand
Great instructional and great animation... Bravo!
Very good demonstration! Thanks.
Nice and Instructional vid for a DIY... thanks
Hi i noticed that the dial indicator was not calibrated back to zero right before you took your final reading
the dial needle was at .80 which is 20thou off original calibration was this a mistake or a missed step in the video ?
thanks
It is correct, he set the dial indicator up with a little bit of preload.
Thank you. That is correct. That way I can measure plus or minus values.
Good catch, you are right and he just goofed and got the calibration off of zero somehow. It has to be set to zero or it will not be accurate.
Actually what happened is that once you take the steel tube off of the dial plunger it will allow the plunger to come out further throwing the needle off but it is exactly zero at 3.375 so although the needle was at 80 without the steel tube on it, it is calibrated at zero once you slide the steel calibration tube onto the plunger.
thanks for the video I just have a question about this magnetic spacer , does its thickness affect the measurement ? as the tip of dial indicator dont touch directly the surface of pinion
The magnetic spacer does influence the measurement but the tool manufacture has built that into the tool so no calculations are needed and you don't need to measure the magnet.
I wish you would have said that in the video. Thanks for asking the question.
Great video, I use the same tool and currently setting up a dodge 9.25 rear diff but aluminum spacers to small for the saddles, are there additional spacers available for the 9.25 diff
There may be two things you can do if the saddle spacers are a little small. (1) If you contact the company and give them the numbers on the bearing cup they will machine and sell you the proper size saddle spacers. (2) If it seems like it's only a few thousandth of an inch I have purchased what is called "Shim in a Can". I normally get this in .004" brass or steel. Cut a small strip and place it between the bearing cap and saddle spacer. Not between the housing and saddle spacer because this would alter the measurement. Then tighten the bearing caps but you may have to use less than 25 foot pounds to allow the shaft to rotate. Good Luck.
@@DrivelineMaster Thanks for the reply, I’ll call on Tuesday, if it takes to long to get them, I’ll just measure from top of saddle to top of pinion since that’s axle center line. Have a great 4TH
What about the thickness of the magnet do you subtract it from your total?
best video i have ever seen thanks a lot great job
How do you measure including the magnetic block and still get the pinion offset? Isn't that offset from the magnetic block plus pinion? I guess how the calibrated sleeve and extension account for the thickness of the magnetic block by being made shorter by the thickness of the magnetic block?
If that is so, then the numbers still work out but the way the process is described here without mentioning the contribution from the magnetic block can make the observed process confusing.
What am I missing?
Hi Alex, You are correct that the thickness of the magnet is engineered into the calibration tool. You aren't missing anything. I didn't anticipate this question when I created the video and I should have explained that within the video. You are not the only person to ask this question.
@@DrivelineMaster Good video!
Good explanation. Where could I buy the tool? And will it work the same on the front differential? Thanks
Google T&D Machine Pinion Depth Tool and you will find it available online. This covers almost all USA domestic vehicles. Ford, GM, & Chrysler. I have found ways to make it work with some Asian vehicles and T&D will custom machine you saddle spacers for specific differentials if you contact them with the case bearing numbers. Yes, it works on front and rear differentials if you have a 4x4 vehicle.
So if the pinion bearing beds a shim added or removed to obtain proper centerline specs, the new bearing has to be removed in order to add or remove shims?
Is there a way to remove the new bearing without damaging it ?
Yes, the bearing can be removed with the proper bearing splitter and a hydraulic press. Shops that build similar diffs on a regular basis with take a brand new bearing and hone out the inner race just a few thousands of an inch so the bearing just barely slides onto the pinion without pressing it. This is called a dummy bearing. That way it slides on and off with a little finesse and a small amount of hand force. This makes for a quick change shim to find the right one. Once the correct shim is found a new bearing is pressed onto the pinion and the dummy bearing goes into the tool box ready for the next job that uses that size bearing.
Great video, how does the depth figure account for the magnet?
The thickness of the magnet has been engineered into the fixture during the calibration process.
Thanks for the tutorial! Do you know if this will work for Ford Motorsport Performance Parts 8.8 pinion gears? They don't have a machined face on the pinion and I've read some weird ways to set pinion depth with them.
Yes this tool should work on all Ford differentials. The bottom line is the contact patch. Check out my video on Contact patch and pinion depth.
This is a nice tool, but just a heads up for people who might want to invest into something like this, if you purchase OEM Ford gears or Ford racing gears the pinion heads are not smooth they have a cast like surface which is rough and can through off measurements slightly with this tool. Instead I recommend the pinion depth tool that Freedom Racing sells. It’s the exact tool Ford recommended when setting up the pinion in the 8.8 housings, and way easier for setup with a quick measurement method that accurately sets your pinion depth the first time without having to worry about pressing on and off any bearings.
OEM tools are always the best way to go and if all I did was setup Ford differentials I would consider investing in the factory tool. Universal tools provide more flexibility for a shop or individual who may need to setup differentials from multiple manufactures. I always use the contact patch as my final setup decision. You can check out my video on Pinion Depth and Contact Patch Explained. As another note most pinion gears do not have a machined surface on the head where the magnet sits so there is always a chance of error however .001" to .002" is normally acceptable. Also note that OEM gearsets will not provide you with the pinion depth value like an aftermarket gearset will. That is why it's important to understand the contact patch. One last final note. If you are replacing the gears with the same gear ratio you can often reuse the depth shim. Just make sure to check the contact patch when your done.
@@DrivelineMaster totally agree that the tool you are using has a much larger selection of vehicles to setup ring and pinion. The tool Ford recommends does not require the pinion depth value. The value will get you close but the Ford 8.8 housings have manufacturer differences, so it’s just a number to get you close much like using the previous pinion shim. There is a specific reason why Ford doesn’t stamp there pinion value on the head of there pinion bc the value might work for one housing but not the next also that value would have to come from a specific pinion bearing selection as well bc different types of bearings will sway that value. The aftermarket types that do put the value on the pinion is not an advantage in my opinion.
I like the Ford tool bc it doesn’t require any special attention to pinion bearing selection, unlike the tool you are using. It also doesn’t require the any pressing on and off of any pinion bearings either. It’s a multi piece kit that is put together to take the place of your pinion for mock up, and provides a one time measurement that accurate the first time. There’s no guessing or hoping the pattern will work out. It’s dead nuts every-time.
Like you said using the old shim will get you very close, but that method will always have variables that can sway your reading things like the pinion bearing selection previously used, housing differences and selection of ring and pinion from either Ford or aftermarket types. The tool you are using also requires the use of the pinion and new bearing which is a pain if you just so happen to need an adjustment. It requires pressing off the bearing and changing shims or some guys try and modify an old bearing but that just opens up more room for error. The Ford tool is definitely superior than the dial indicator type you are using for Ford rear ends but if you are setting up different types of rear ends I totally understand why you went with the tool you are using.
Yes, I have used the Ford tool and other factory tools. I agree the Factory Ford tool is more accurate and a real no brainer. Toyota uses something similar. As far as pressing and un-pressing I normally purchase a second set of bearings and hone out the inside diameter just enough to slide it on and off of the pinion. I know this induces a small amount of possible error but it is minimal. I keep that bearing set for reuse on any future diffs that use the same bearings. This trick also works with setting up case bearing position and preload on Dana diffs that put the case shims behind the case bearings. Thanks for you input and insight.
Hi thanks for the explanation, I’ve been trying to use this tool. What am I doing wrong or what does it mean when the measurements are asking me to reduce the shims but I don’t have enough to reduce. I’m on negative.
This could mean several things. One, you may be looking at the numbers backwards. It's easy to confuse adding and subtracting shims. What does the gauge read? Big and little dial? What did you calibrate zero to? 3.375", 2.5" or 1.9"? What number did you come up with for your measured pinion depth? What is the preferred pinion depth stamped onto your new pinion? If you did all the reading, calibrating and measurement correct and you aren't confusing the need to add shims when you need to subtract the other possibilities are: The bearing race is not properly seated into the housing. The rear pinon bearing is not properly seated all the way against the head of the pinion and sometimes the there is a problem with the gearset. It just won't work in your housing. You can always try installing with zero shims and view my video about contact patch and pinion depth to see how far off your depth really is. if you want to write back with additional info I will try to help you.
If I use this tool to find the depth then all I have to do is set up side bearings to get correct backlash and Im done ?????
I'm new at this and I have a question. Is this step necessary if you set the pinion bearing preload? That also dictates the pinion depth.
Pinion bearing preload is a separate item from pinion depth. If you are reusing the same ring and pinion gear and only changing your pinion bearings you should be able to use the same pinion depth shim without a problem. If you are changing gear ratios or putting in an aftermarket gearset depth will need to be checked and most likely adjusted. You don't need the tool if you want to do a little trial and error method. Watch my video on pinion depth and contact patch. You can do a temporary depth setup on your pinion and run a contact patch. if the patch shows the depth is off remove the pinion shim and add or subtract, reassemble and test again. Normally between 2 to 4 times of doing this and you can dial the depth in and you don't need the gauge tool.
@@DrivelineMaster Thank you for clearing that up Sir. I have a manual and it say to do this step but all I was doing is changing the bearings in the differential so it seems like so can use the same shim and continue with assembly. I will sub to you channel.
You are correct. If you are only changing the bearings, seals and gaskets you should be able to reuse the same pinion depth shim.
Where did you buy that stand? I need one of those
Search OTC 7020 for the holding fixture. If found one on Tooldiscounter.com
Hi I have a 7.5 gm what calibration tool would I use because the 3.375 is to long
The T & D pinion depth tool used in the video comes with 3 calibration plugs for different depths. 3.375", 2.5" and 1.900". If you are using this tool and you need something shorter than 3.375" just use the 2.5" calibration plug. Are you using the same gear ratio? If so, you can start with the same size depth shim and check your depth by gear contact patch. You can check out my video's on contact patch and pinion depth. Depending on the contact patch you can increase or decrease the pinion depth shim by .005' - .006" and recheck. This method is a bit of trial and error but if you know how to read a contact patch you should be able to dial in the pinion depth within 2 o 4 adjustments. Some technicians will purchase a second set of pinion bearings and use a small bore hone similar to what would be used for wheel cylinders or a small engine to remove a few thousandth of on inch from the inside diameter of the bearings so they just barely slide onto the drive pinion. That way it's easy to swap out depth shims without having to use a press each time. Once you find the correct depth shim based on contact patch replace the setup pinion bearing with the one that has to be pressed on. Don't use the one you honed out for your final assembly. Your rebuild longevity will be compromised.
Thank you for this video!
I have this tool...i was getting different reading going back and forth with same shim...i was going nuts..until i find out the pignion head , the flat suface where the magnet goes wasnt dead flat..it had a low spot...i waisted my time and endup with an approx reading
I will suggest first to check on that pignon surface with a dial indicator first to make sur its dead flat
Also i used on 4.56 gear set.
Pignion head is smaller
I had to hold the nagnet with a finger
Good Idea but the reality is that none of the manufacture will use the pinion for pinion depth. They all use precision dummy shafts and precision spacer blocks so this tool will always be a little off and the pinion head is never machined near perfectly flat. Although not shown in the video I will often take the new pinion and give it a few strokes of 320 emery paper on a flat granite block to knock off high spots. If you do this make sure to write down the pinion depth markings first just in case you end up removing them. Second I always apply a little finger pressure on the magnet to keep it up against the pinion head when taking my measurement. Finally I use the contact patch to determine if the depth is correct and adjust from there. This tool if it doesn't get your perfect it will get you darn close. I never use the crush sleeve and install the pinion seal until I have set it up once and done a pattern. Once I'm happy with the pattern I then install the crush sleeve and seal for the final assembly.
How much to torque pinon nut?
Excellent Demonstration of kit.
I just bought the tool to set up my own rearends and was curious what is tolerable between aftermarket gearsets. My depth on my motive gear was 2.859 and I ended up with 2.855ish is that close enough or no?
Also I forgot to put the yoke on and add some preload with the old crush sleeve but will this change the depth or no? Since the old yoke I have for now is tight to slide on the splines
The diff is also a 12 bolt chevrolet car rearend
First of all you do need to put the yoke on but no need for the crush sleeve. You do need to tighten the yoke until you get around 15 - 20 in lbs. of rotational force if you want an accurate pinion depth reading. Over the years I have noticed that with larger differentials above 9" ring gears a few thousandths of an inch won't matter too much however on smaller diffs they tend to be a little more sensitive to a few thousandth of an inch. What interest me is that gear manufactures do not provide a specification range but instead an exact value. Although the tools we have can be quite accurate there is always room for a few thousandth of an inch in error. At the end of the day it will all be about the contact patch. The pinion depth tool get you close but sometimes I end up changing the depth based on the contact patch. Check out my video on pinion depth and contact patch. ruclips.net/video/w2kneEjXw6E/видео.html
Will the tool work on Jeep Wrangler LJ dana 44 rear axles ?
It's my understanding that it will. Double check with the manufacture. T&D machine tool.
So the Magnet is part of the calibrated depth?! That is the part that always confused me. I might have to clean the dust off my tool. Thank you
Yes, the engineers compensated for the thickness of the magnet into the calibration. A lot of people asked this question. I now wish that I included that answer within the video.
Just bought one of these. NOT cheap but worth it.
What spacers did you start off on the pinion?
Use the original spacer that came from the original pinion. If you don't know where to start you can start with .025" - .035". This is a good starting point for most differentials as long as your not making a huge ratio change.
Will the pinion gear depth be marked on a new gear, or where can this figure be found?
Sorry for the delayed response. If you purchase an aftermarket ring and pinion gear set the manufacture will scribe the pinion depth value on the head of the new drive pinion. Factory replacement gears typically will not have the depth value marked on the head. There is a way to calculate the depth on USA domestic rear axles by using the master housing depth and measuring the size of the pinion head. I always use a contact patch as my final determination to verify if the depth is correct.
what about the magnetic spacer on the face of the pinion. should that value be added.
Answered above, it is already factored into the calibration
Is this tool compatible? Chevy Trailblazer, wanting to swap the internals (3.42) of the GM IFS 7.25 to 4.10 gears including the GM 8.0 rear to 4.10.
Yes it is.
DrivelineMaster hi. i want to ask you. when using universial pinion depth gauge. after using it. is it done with all measurements?
You would use it once more after installing the calculated shim to make sure you did everything correctly.
So this tool once you measure and have the right depht with shims your done? all other measurements are ok?
Boost V8 chevy there are several parts to set up this the first next is the torque the other end of the pinion it the preload then you move on to the career for how much back lash and where the ring a pinion mesh you use marking lube to know to shift it left or right then depending on what axle you have you may need to shim them so I guess your answer is no
This is used as the first stages of setup. The pinion is placed into location with a starter shim and snugged down so it won't move around and has minimum preload on the pinion bearings. After using this tool and adjusting pinion depth shim you will need to watch my video on installing the case and adjusting the backlash and case bearing preload. Once this is done a contact patch should be taken (another video)to verify correct pinion depth. If the pattern is off you will need to change the pinion depth shim to correct the pinion depth and repeat the process of installing the case and taking another contact patch. Keep doing this until the patch is where you want it. Then you can install the pinion and seal and crush the crush sleeve for the final preload. Then do your final case setup and your done.
DrivelineMaster unless it is a Dana 53
Will this kit work on a ford D44 hp axle as well?
Yes
be sure to order the 11001
where did the original calibrated reading 3.375 come from??
The calibration values come from the tool manufacture.
It is just a starting point from which to deduct the difference from that get from taking your reading
Hi,
first thanks for the, in my opinion, best explaining videos for differential rebuilding. You helped me a lot. :*
But where can I get the calibrating tools for the gauge? I cant find it. What is the name for it?
Second way is to machine them. But it sounds, that you can just buy it anywhere if you know the right nam. ;)
Google T&D Pinion Depth tool. I found it can be purchased from Amazon using this link. www.amazon.com/Machine-Products-11001-Deluxe-Checker/dp/B003OU2DXU
Great vid Can you tell me by deducting 5 thousands on pinion dept ,How many thousands would it add or deduct on backlash ?
I wish there was a formula but there isn't. A lot depends on the design and cut on the gear. Additionally, it's not proportional which means changing the depth by .010" might change the backlash by .008" but an additional .010" might change the Backlash by .012". One other note, Most of the time depth is done first, then the case and ring gear is installed and backlash is setup from there. You might want to check out a few of my other differential videos.
@@DrivelineMaster What I did was bought 2 of the same brand pinion bearings bored out one too use to set pinion depth and set backlash to .006 used the marking compound and everything was good ,Pressed on new pinion bearing put everything back to double check and the backlash was around .008 to 9 and seems to ride more towards the heel,,BTW Thanks for getting back to me I appreciate it
There is always a little wiggle room with backlash and as long as you are within the tolerances your good. Never worry about being perfectly in the middle of the specification that reality is not always possible. I'm assuming your differential uses case bearing shims because you would not be able to do what you described with threaded adjusters. I suppose if you have a straddle mount differential that has the removable pinion housing this is possible. If your backlash is slightly out of specifications after installing the pressed on the pinion bearings it's only a matter of a small manipulation of case bearings shims to fix the problem. For every .002" case bearing shim change you should get close to .001" backlash change. Take .004" away from the thickness on the shim farthest away from the ring gear and increase the shim closest to the ring gear by .004" and that should dial your backlash to very close to .006" to .007" again. Also having backlash that is the same all the way around is also not realistic. There is almost always some variation. What kind of diff is this? Did you also setup your case bearing preload with the dummy pinion bearings in place? If you never setup case bearing preload it could easily move on you causing the backlash change.
@@DrivelineMaster Thanks for getting back to me ..I Forgot to tell you its a 10 bolt GM with the 7.5 ring gear ,,,installing a dura grip yukon carrier with the yukon gears ,Yes set the preload with the shims and dialed everything in ,But it changed after pressing the bearing on pinion ,,I Guess the bearings are not alike even using the same brand ,I did readjust the BL but did not like the pattern with the pressed on bearing
Patterns are also a bit tricky and hard to get perfect. When doing a mock setup with dummy bearings it's not common to use the crush sleeve. If you left the crush sleeve off during this part that could play a part in the misalignment. If you used an crush sleeve eliminator kit that could eliminate that possibility. Additionally the bearing that was honed out could seat slightly different. The pressed on bearing expands the inner race which will effect the way the bearings seat against the cup. This has a tiny effect on pinion depth but normally not enough to make a difference. I don't think the bearings were different I just think they sit differently when pressed on as compared to being honed out. As long as the pattern is not running off any of the teeth edges you will be fine. If these are new gears don't forget to break them in. Yukon has break-in instructions.
The face of my pinion just says 325 does that mean it’s depth needs to be 3.250?
Most likely depending on application. It really should have read 3.25" For a small to medium size vehicle that would be a large pinion depth. If it's a larger truck it is possible.
This is excellent!!!
Excellent..Thanks Jerry
Hi where can buy axle housing fixed holding THANKS
The one I use is made by OTC. Google OTC Differential holder. I found this on Amazon. www.amazon.com/OTC-7020-Bench-Mounted-Holding-Fixture/dp/B00063XZ7Q/ref=asc_df_B00063XZ7Q/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312174136943&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17724246352267445796&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032064&hvtargid=pla-568857223602&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=63790029762&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312174136943&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17724246352267445796&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032064&hvtargid=pla-568857223602
thanks !
Are you wearing your pajamas? Very informative video.
I may have been wearing a shop coat.
Thanks for the vid.
Im lost at the gauge of set before measurement would that not be 30 thousandth that it moved up that ruins the whole video if you change the calibration explain in the video
I just reviewed the video and all is correct. I'm uncertain where you see .030". The only thing I can think of is that you are including the amount of Preload I placed on the dial gauge when I calibrated it. Is that it? The calibration value of 3.375" sets the zero point on the dial. If the dial reads exactly zero for both inner and outer dial readings then the distance or depth is exactly 3.375". Any value on the gauge is less than 3.375". The gauge is preloaded just in case the the distance is a few thousandth of an inch larger than 3.375". If this is not what you are referring to please write me back. Maybe give me an time stamp on the video so I can see what is confusing you.
His measurement has one flaw...........at 1:28........he should be using a small flat piece of metal instead of his thumb.......
If you are careful it doesn't matter however I have at times rested the calibration plug on the work bench and let the whole fixture stand up on the calibration plug without touching the fixture to verify the zero setting. This removes the human element of uneven pressure on the plug as you suggest could happen by using my thumb.
great vid
👍👍
You were not at Zero
If not perfectly at zero damn close enough. Diff depth is sensitive but not down to a few ten thousandth of an inch.
@@DrivelineMaster Hi
On frame 5:13 when you go to do the measurement the dial indicator is at .080
Did I miss something??
Thanks
Yes, you did miss something. The calibration plug is no longer on the setup. the 0.080" you see is actually 0.020" preload. When the calibration plug is removed the plunger is allowed to fully extend and when it did it went to 0.080" which is actually the 0.020" preload I put on the plunger when I zeroed the dial.
voice sounds like; DATA from Star Trek The New Generation... Haha
Besy video i have seen
What a waste of time
I'm sorry you feel that way. Yes pinion depth can be done by trial and error without a tool. Yes, most often if you replace with the same OEM ring and pinion you can use the same shim. But making sure the pinion depth is correct my measurement or contact patch is extremely important and not a waste of time if you want your diff build to last and not make noise. Some viewers would like to know how this is done so I made the video.
I can set up pinion depth by contact patch alone. No tool needed. This is for those who want to use a tool and need to know how to use that tool.