For "normal" gears, it is quite easy to determine Module from a physical gear: M = OD / (N+2). OD = the outer diameter of the wheel, N the number of teeth. So, with an outer diameter of 7.0mm and 12 teeth, you do indeed get a Module 0.5. To go from Module to pitch, you multiply with PI, so the teeth in this gear should be spaced 1.57 mm apart.
You speak as though you are not a wizard; you are a wizard. I like the part about unwinding a string from a circle to find the tooth profile. Intriguing parts of creation...
I have a photo of one of my work friends having the back of her leather jacket signed by Terry P. She bent right over in front of him to present a horizontal surface and he made a very suitable expression. One of the world's Nice People, sadly missed.
Laughed many times, love the narration and "Miss Cynicism" (aka Aimee). Was actually looking for a video on doing a brass gear with a CNC router but couldn't turn it off, TY!
Congrats on your first gear. I made my first gear a few days ago. What a satisfying feeling, especially for some 60 year-old worn out equipment. Cheers.
Oh my we are on the same path. I have finally got myself an indexing head and need to make some gears. I purchased a M1 set for a task that Im not quite ready to do but then discovered the majority of plastic gears appear to be M0.5. I have just ordered a set from China but also discovered less than M1 needs a smaller arbor, 16 rather than the 22 of my M1 set, tooling always gets you. My objective is to make the same sort of gears you have so Im grateful for your honest and direct help, I too am no machinist but I get by.
@@MachiningandMicrowaves Gee that is large and imperial to make it more limiting. Personally I get my cutters from Aliexpress at around $80NZ a set and free delivery but you wont find much imperial stuff. I think the 22mm arbor I purchased originally was $49NZ. For a home shop its really impressive what you can get at the moment from China, I suspect it wont continue.
I find it strange that you don't have more followers. The production value is top notch, and the humour is on par with This old tony. I rather like the self deprecating aspect of it. Greetings from the Netherlands
The algorithm doesn't seem to care about number of subscribers, but sponsors do care a bit. I'm endlessly grateful that ANYONE watches my vids. When folks also subscribe it's thrilling! I am close to a million views and my mother is keeping count, but I'm just enjoying messing about here. I wish I had more time so I could post more frequently
I always hit the like button before any video, I figure if a person goes through the trouble of making a video it's worth a 👍, great video, keep'um coming.
I'm giggling away watching this. You have a knack for story telling indeed here. Love your work - and this was super interesting! Edit. finished the vid now and yep, that was super satisfying. Love your cheeky humour and well-lit, clearly-focused filming. Brilliant!
The cutter you used was.5 module? I need to make a similar sized gear for an old doorbell. One you spin a shaft which spins a double ended “clapper” through a set of three gears. One is gone missing. It’s a 12 tooth involute brass gear, outer diameter 10.5mm, shaft 5mm.
Yes, that little pinion was 0.5 mod. A 10.5 mm diameter 12 tooth could be 0.75 mod or possibly 34 diametral pitch. That is a bit tight at the root for a 5.00 mm shaft, but looks correct. Try mod 0.75, pressure angle 20 deg, 12 teeth and see if the root diameter and OD seem OK evolventdesign.com/pages/blank-calc
0:29 The shrinking of the small nylon gear leads to increase of the stress around the circumference. It shrinks on the axle, but because of the non shrinking of the axle, the stress in the circumference increases, which leads to the snipping of the gear . This effect is the more, the bigger the inner axle is in relation to the gear. It´s a common design flaw.
This is def mastery, this is what mastery looks like on so many levels, so many skills mastered, I love the that you operate at such an impressive approach to everything You do, You are ridiculous and it’s absolutely wonderful, I love it!
Agreed, I'm just a rank beginner and have no idea what I'm doing, but having fun messing about with RUclips. Jeff is right though, I'm ridiculous and it IS wonderful that I can be this ridiculous in public. Given that I'm crushingly shy and that was only the second time I've appeared on screen, I'm prepared to cut myself some serious slack. Maybe in 100 videos' time I might get the hang of all this internet nonsense. Maybe not. It's a jolly way to waste my time enjoying myself. That's enough for me,
@@MachiningandMicrowaves Ridiculously Wonderful! I’m so reserved that I can’t stand to have a camera pointed at me, but more and more as of late I have been feeling this compulsive urge to get started with my own content, which for me would just be me trying to shine light on all the amazing creators I come across, especially the crushingly shy rank beginners 😉
@@ParkerSaint oh man, good question, one that I absolutely won’t have an acceptable answer to lol and just by reading this response I will be wasting your time, which I should apologize for upfront 😬Language is soooooo incredibly difficult, I could make an attempt but it’s destined to come out in too abstract of a way, I certainly couldn’t put it to words for the benefit of anyone outside of me, seems mastery really does create very real division, def a trade off lol.
AndysMachines has an excellent "How to identify unknown gears?" video here on RUclips. Also lots of videos on gearmaking, and making tools to make gears (he makes his own gear hobs, made a gear shaper, shows how to make gears with a slitting saw, etc).
I was going to suggest the exact same - his channel is a fantastic resource for this sort of thing. I never really understood hobbing until I watched his videos and saw him build the machine, I'd recommend any person with interest in "hobby" (hah, get it) machining should subscribe to him
I was more interested in T Rex, Can, Neu!, Tangerine Dream, obscure English folk songs, then Ramones, Iggy Pop and UK punk in the 70s, plus Stockhausen, medieval polyphony, Reggae, Ska, Corelli, Isao Tomita, Monteverdi, Byrd, Purcell, opera, ballet and 20th century British works by Vaughan Williams, Butterworth, Peter Maxwell Davies, Nyman, Arnold, Tippett, Tavener, Britten and Warlock. But yeah, Mistah Ferry scrubbed up well and knew how to wear a good suit
@@FullSendPrecision I have full sets from 0.2 mm up to 10 mm then a few more up to 20 mm, but they are all single, no pairs. I have some thread wires, but those drills were just the right size
@@FullSendPrecision That's an interesting thought, never seen it done. I have a lot of three-point bore micrometers, but I guess you can measure a hole using three different pins and some simple equations, although working that out might take me a few minutes! I guess there are videos about it that would save me the effort.
I'm still learning how to do all this video stuff, as well as machining. I'm on the nursery slopes of the learning curve, but I'm trying to get better at it one video at a time. I hope folks will find something interesting in watching me mess about making things. I'm having immense fun doing it just for the sheer h*ck and giggles, but when someone has the grace to subscribe, it feel like a bit of an honour, so thanks very much
@@MachiningandMicrowaves I subscribe ONLY to channels that I find useful. Seeing your mistakes and how you fix them is super important to me. I like your style and hope to learn a lot. Others I subscribe to are : This Old Tony, Joe Pie, Blondie Hacks. All provide information with a touch of humor and show their mistakes and successes.
If I'm not misremembering, the formula for figuring out the outer diameter of a gear is D=2m+m*z With this, you can use your diameter and the amount of teeth to determine your module profile. For 7 teeth and a diameter of 9, you'll have 9=2m+m*7, or 9=9m, or m=1. This of course assumes a standardized gear, which yours might not be, but maybe it'll help in the future =)
Indeed that's right. In this case, to OD was 7.0 mm and 12 teeth, so it certainly works if the gears are not worn and are cut to the standard involute profile.
I learned about gear module last weekend, by opening FreeCAD with the intention of designing and printing a roller-counter mechanism. clicked "add sprocket" and it gave me… not a gear, now I know what "sprocket" means. clicked "add involute" and it gave me an outline where I couldn't specify a diameter, just number of teeth and the mysterious pressure angle and module. half a dozen iterations and 3D prints later and I still don't have a working roller counter but I believe the problem is the use of cocktail sticks as placeholder axles… brass rod is on order
what I need is eight-tooth 0.9 mod pinions of approx 2-3mm width and with alternate teeth cut back to half width so it's essentially 4-tooth gear stuck to an 8-tooth gear. filament 3D printer with proprietary slicing software is giving very iffy results there. resin printer is on order. I've considered just ordering some brass 8-tooth 0.8 mod pinions and cutting them down myself (and scaling down slightly to suit - desirable actually) but at multiple £ per gear that's too expensive for what I have in mind. roller-counter displays were _everywhere_ so I don't know why I can't find these gears as cheap nylon commodity items
I guess the originals were injection-moulded from Delrin/POM or filled nylon? Once you specify a tooth form and pressure angle, there are only certain solutions for a specified number of teeth and diameter, and as cutters only come in specific MOD or DP values, you can't make gears by specifying the diameter, unless you get really lucky. If you grind your own hobbing cutters, you can make gears of any diameter by making the hob effectively a weird intermediate DP/MOD. Gears are FUN.
@@RoamingAdhocrat On FDM, model in a bottom chamfer and print in spiral vase mode, and print two separately. You'll need to fill it with resin, find the centre (the hole in the first layer will help) and drill it out, and resin them together. The heatbed of the 3D printer is perfect to fast-cure epoxy on at elevated temperature, you can set something like 70°C expecting to see a bit less in the part. Hot cured epoxy also becomes more cohesive. Maybe put something undrneath so you don't drip epoxy on your bed.
The cracking of the original gear is typical of Acetal parts having too great a press fit. I learned this decades ago. I just compromised on the interference between the parts and haven't had a failure since. I've made thousands. When you said 12 teeth 7mm OD, I said 0.5 module. :) Coincidentally this little gear is the smallest I produce (in black Acetal). And like this one, mine also drives a feedback position sensor. :) The idea of oversized blank OD only works with cutters designed to cut the OD as well as the flanks. Your involute cutter is not this type.
@@MachiningandMicrowaves Yes I'm sure you did see it. It's an even bigger mistake they made having too much stress on the gear since the shaft is knurled. That means the amount of "grip" ie interference between the parts can be even less meaning less stress. The gears could have lasted damn near forever. I occasionally get units returned with the stress cracked gear to fix. None younger than 35 years old. That means getting the level of stress right resulted in that gear lasting at least 35 years. By the way, when I started 40 years ago making my own gears I was doing it just like you did this one. Now it's all CNC and that 12 tooth gear is done 4 at a time in 1.5 minutes. :) I really liked the vid. You reminded me of the learning curve I went through. I'm not far off retiring now, but I still enjoy making improvements to techniques. Some gears (in low stress use) I am 3d printing in resin.
@@thebeerwaisnetwork8024 I've improved a bit since then, but now I need to cut some bevel gears and worms, so the learning curve continues. I must save up some money to invest in a 4th axis drive for my new CNC mill, then life will get much simpler! Perhaps... New videos on the way very soon
The plastic has to be Nylon (PA6). It's cast hard, undersized and somewhat brittle and then conditioned at the factory or during transit in humid atmosphere, absorbing more than 4% its weight/volume in water; naturally it doesn't remain at cast size, it expands! Then it's placed on the shaft and loses just a little moisture, shrinking onto it perfectly, holding tight in spite of being a very slippery material. The moisture is the magic ingredient that makes PA mechanisms super low friction, super abrasion resistant, super silent, and makes it tough and flexible. Then over the years, depending on how hot it is, it continues shedding moisture and shrinking, until it's cracked by the shaft. Typically you expect them to last well over 10 years, up to maybe 20, not much beyond that under usual conditions. If you re-condition them regularly by placing them in humid atmosphere, they might last an eternity for all i know. I have had some zipties that i stored in a super dry hot place for 12 years and they got super hard and brittle, and i was able to recondition them, and i'm still using them a few more years later, they're good as new. I just added half a teaspoon of water into the baggie, sealed it somewhat and waited for a few days. I have a bad habit of repairing weird little plastic mechanisms. Usually cast a replacement out of epoxy using silicone putty as a mould, often partial moulds and recreating the gear piece by piece. I happen to use UHU300 epoxy, i don't know whether that's ideal but it's what i use. It's a 1:1 mix slow cure tough epoxy, but i use 20-30% more hardener (by volume) or just eyeball a sufficiently higher amount of it but not too much. Good mixing is super important, i'm sure you knew that, but it's extra important since we're creating a very off balance mixture. The reason is that the hardener half actually contains all sorts of junk including plasticizer, since the real hardener chemical would take less than 15% by volume, so they bulk it up. Of course it won't cure like that, but not a problem, i throw it on the heatbed of my 3D printer, or arrange some other heating to keep it above 60°C, then even very reluctant mixture will cure.
Very interesting! The gear is pressed on to a knurled section of the shaft but either the hole tolerance fit is wrong or the gear is underspecified, as they are known to break often. Could be designed that way as a safety feature but it's only for a position encoder. They are usually mounted on top of a mast in a casing that's exposed to the weather and appear to have a little grease on them. I guessed Delrin/Acetal/POM as I have some other gears made from that but PA6 makes more sense. Thanks very much for the info
@@MachiningandMicrowaves Arguably if they wanted something to operate heated by the sun, they should have probably picked some other material. Longer chain PAs can be less prone to both absorb and release moisture, so can last longer, but i am lead to believe take longer to condition. Or indeed POM, which doesn't have this sort of ageing mechanism at all, it's cast true to size and it doesn't take up or shed much moisture. It does have an ageing mechanism of its own, it's capable of depolymerisation in warm environments, but then it likely would crack just anywhere but not really from the shaft outwards. This purely radial failure is typical of PA. POM should likely tend to creep around the knurling over a long term, especially when hot, somewhat relaxing the stress that gets manufactured in there, i think. Oh in case i haven't worded myself well, i use extra hardener to make the overall mix more plasticizer rich, since i vaguely want the epoxy casting to match the flexibility of original PA parts but don't need exceptional solvent resistance. I don't believe it necessarily works entirely the same with all 1:1 epoxies, because i don't really know what others do for their hardener component, whether it's entirely similar. UHU sells its materials (same, often slightly disguised by naming) both to consumers via home improvement stores, and for industrial use, and the industrial datasheet is where i picked up this recommendation to vary the mixture and cure hot to make it actually cure. Hot curing epoxy is always a good idea, it increases adhesion and shear force resistance and also is much quicker than room temperature.
I opine that the module system is more logical, but it's dimensions on a print one way or the other. I have some mod 0.6 gears to make, perhaps that'll be a video.
Nice! Thx for the ride along on your first set of matching involutes. Now all you have to be concerned about is the new gear material wearing out the main gear 🤔😳 ... maybe in 100 years ; )
I have been trying to think of something I could do that would justify a Patreon, but I don't think I can make a good enough rewards package. I do enable the Super Thanks button on these videos in case anyone would like to help towards future projects and tooling. People do love to tell me I'm a rubbish machinist and I suspect they are correct!
Any Roxy fan can't be all bad. Have you seen the film .. Flashbacks of a fool ? Staring Daniel Craig (don't let that put you off) His co star looks a bit like Amy but with dark hair. Worth a watch just for the music.
The stress level was extreme after my amplifier died and the radio noise level from the radio mics and video monitor and Port of London links and cellphones overloaded my aperiodic receiver. That meant it was almost impossible to get any result, but we definitely heard that poor production assistant singing Baa Baa Black Sheep. In my lab at home, there's not even a cellphone signal, so although it isn't as radio silent at 1940s Moscow, I can usually get my Great Seal Bug replicas to work after only six hours of delicate adjustment. I managed to appear nonchalant although I was feeling sick to the stomach with stress and worry. Prof Fry is an excellent interviewer and really knows her subjects. It was a great experience working with her and the production team. Despite the stress and time involved, I'd do it again in a heartbeat.
ToT is very entertaining but if you really want to learn about gears and ways to make them check out the 'andysmachines' channel. Also you could have just identified the big undamaged gear and the pinion would be the same module size just with 12 teeth.
Sadly the large gear is 100 miles away and my customer doesn't have it as it belongs to someone else. Now I've found Andy's Machines I won't need to guess next time.
Those are from Cutwel, www.cutwel.co.uk/ccgt120408-al-yg100-carbide-turning-inserts-ground-polished-chipbreaker-for-non-ferrous-yg-1 but I only paid about £5 each in a cheap deal. [EDIT: just checked and they are YG10 not YG100. ] The similar ones from Arceurotrade are actually pretty good, but I like the YG-1s. They even do a decent job of cutting those thin steel rods, as the tool pressure and deflection is very low. I also use the CCGT120402 where I need a sharp radius, but the 0.8 radius version lasts much longer and can break a good chip even in 608s aluminium if you push the feed rate right up. I tend to take two balanced cuts at 0.2 mm DOC for finishing to dimension and the 0.8 radius still works well at that, but it's happier with the nose buried a bit more. I have some CCGT060402 inserts that I use mainly on boring bars
Clickspring called he wants his content back :D Altough his are still more in the "better not breath on this" scale... Well done! Tried my hand on a few wormgears a while back they didn't turn out as nice. Well at least until I stopped using my McGyver way of using a tap to get em done, bought some propper cutters worked fine after that :D! /cheers!
Well done Neil. You get the Occasional Machinist stamp of approval (or would, if I could find it). I am disappointed that you chose @ThisOldTony 's videos as a reference in preference to mine though - I mean just because he has over 2000 times the subscribers I have, and knows what he is talking about...
More than likely, that original plastic gear was made of Nylon. This is a common problem, over time the nylon further shrinks and eventually cracks form.
It's just weird I know, everything I've worked on has had threads, not even worm gears. Now I have the scent of pinion blood in my nostrils, I want to make MORE GEARS!
So a gear is easy to cut in the home workshop, if you have a lathe, a milling machine and a dividing head. Not to mention a involute gear tool circa £50.
Cutter was £25 from RDG Tools. I already had the arbour. I could have ground a single-tooth hob, but life is too short. I used the punch grinder simply because it had the right number of detents. I could have made a simple dividing plate and stop, and used a milling attachment on a lathe, but this was an initial voyage of discovery. I think I'd be confident enough to try grinding a single-point hob now, and I had a load of fun making these little pinions
I missed out on being a boomer by a few years. They had the Summer of Love and the white heat of technology, no speed limits, no crash helmets. We got the oil crisis, recessions, locked out of property ownership, blanket speed limits, laws about everything that was fun, AIDS, terror of nuclear war, unemployment, homelessness and the gift of public assets to the 1%. Dad jokes are a reasonable response to all that I think. I'm a great-grandfather so I cut myself a little slack these days. My dad was absolutely the worst at dad jokes, I could never surpass him.
Faultless work but I see no regard to cost. Now I have been on this planet ten years more than your good self and in all that time I have honed the dont throw money at a problem just re think it. Now to make a one off pinion the purchase of an expensive cutter is not a good choice at all, so lets go back to the early days of clockmaking and look for an alternative to a solid pinion easy to make and of extremely low cost with no special tooling required with a life expectancy of a hundred years plus. The lantern pinion fits this role perfect ally co could I recommend you look at this form of pinion you will find it interesting honest. Finally can be made in the lathe without removing the pinion blank from the chuck for all the further machining. Just a hint you will find that sewing needles are perfect to make every thing else needed.
The motivation was that I'd never tried an involute cutter and just wanted to see what it was like. I could have ground up a simple hobbing cutter. Also there are hundreds of those rotators out there all with the same potential fault so I've made a batch of these using that cutter. I'm reading George Daniels Watchmaking book in detail and I want to try lots of other techniques but until I can retire from the Day Job, time is very scarce
I would recommend John Wildings books on how to make various clocks (a book for each clock) though more importantly how to make all the parts yourself from the Brass without using castings. These Wilding books are a mine of useful information on how things are done.
@@jas20per I borrowed one of those little books some time around 2010, might have been for a small skeleton clock? Can't remember if I ever gave it back. Better go check all the bookshelves!
That would be nice! My mother was very proud to see her only son making a fool of himself on BBC 2 TV last night with the most splendid Professor Fry. Hi Mum!
@@MachiningandMicrowaves Agree... He's an exceptional machinist and metal worker. You're not so bad yourself! Been a hobby machinist for ages, but I've still not machined my own gears. Just buy gear stock for the 0.2M and 0.3M gears I use in my hobby pursuits, but would like to some day, just to say "I did it". Great video!
Well done you two. For future reference, but I'm sure you already worked it out, you could have measured the other intact gear to get the DP/module of the difficult to measure broken one. Watched you last night, so that's what you look like. Curious the fact that Oyster cards being contactless 4 years before cash cards wasn't mentioned in a history heavy program.🤔
Sadly, the other gear is 100 miles away and wasn't even with the friend who asked me to make the part, so I was a bit light on metrological examples! I used a body double during the filming of course. The researchers working on the programme are pretty good, but they sometimes miss some details. Lots of he historical background was scrubbed around, so I'll go into it properly. Money laundering in Panama. Marvellous.
Oh, Man, have I just found a channel featuring the two hobbies where I have almost no clue what I’m doing? Looks like it. But I only have a Taig lathe (plus a very clapped-out ML7), and a KX3 plus a collection of Morse keys and paddles. I liked the video,cand you have a new subscriber.. 73, g0nmd
Watch this space for lots more videos this year! I'm just doing the setup for my new SYIL X5 CNC mill. It's a beast, but it'll mean I can make complex compound curved antenna reflectors and all sorts of microwave goodies. Cheers, Neil G4DBN in sunny East Yorkshire
MGMN150-GH01 www.cutwel.co.uk/1-5mm-h01-general-grooving-inserts-korloy-mgmn-g-series but I can't find the code of the toolholder for those inserts. I prefer the MGMN over the push-in style
That brass is awfully red-ish for brass... Looks more like bronze by colour... Tho, the sounds of `er wha are that of machining brass... Either way, both would be a decent material for what you are doing... And the colour might just be deceiving me through your shop lighting, your camera and finally my 15 year old lcd screen... Also, why do i have a feeling that i have seen this video of yours before? Is it divine machinist visions, or have i fucked up playing with my big lathe and traveled back in time today and am seeing this video again - for the first time?
I forgot to apply the colour correction after I left the halogen machine light on by mistake, so everything is a bit too pink/yellow. I'm going to replace that spot with another 100 watt cool white LED photo light with remote control, but I need to get the ceiling rails fitted for the lights and pantographs first. I ran a short video of an animated on-screen annotation last week as a teaser just to test my Wacom tablet, but re-shot it completely for this video, so you weren't imagining things!
WOW - PRETTY CLOSE TO THE THREE JAW CHUCK, WHY? - YOU HAD PLENTY OF SHAFT TO NOT RUN THE CUTTER THAT CLOSE TO THE SPINNING CHUCK - SOMETHING MY FEARLESS FRESHMEN DO ALL THE TIME IN MY METAL'S CLASS - AGAIN, I ASK, WHY?
I missed it though, didn't I? I guess because I have choices and at my advanced age, nobody gets to tell me what to do! Unless I screw up and wreck something, then EVERYONE gets to say "We told you so"! Actually the real reason was it was stupidly late at night and I hadn't checked the index position, so cut one tooth wrong and had to machine the end off and do it all again and didn't want to upset the concentricity. Everyone sing along "Neil's doing sketchy sh*t, doo-dah, doo-dah. Hope he gets away with it, oh, doo-dah-day"
@@edgeeffect I bought the single of Virginia Plain in a tiny record shop in Venice in November 1972. I think I've still got four vinyl albums, but then Punk happened and Ferry went all Tony Bennett...
Hannah was the perfect host. Interested, knowledgeable, professional, funny, giggly, razor-sharp intellect and all-round excellent human. Aimee, however, was coded on a Monday morning by someone with a grudge against the Universe.
I seldomly know what to say to an intellectual. But it donned on me. The recording of compressible fluids by your electro-mechanic device was better than most any of the ones I've observed from any of the guests that Brian Greene will interview. It definitely makes it much nicer to be exposed to more accurate recordings of an 11hr or so talk.
I knew it - this whole channel is AI CGI. Proof: at 27s, you see the 4mm shaft against his finger. The finger is at least 7 diameters across, that would make his finker 2.1cm across at the tip, thats a measurement only an AI would make, having confused the tip of things it finds in the other 97% of the internet.
BLEEP BLOOP +++ETAOIN SHRDLU I'm a large language model trained by OpenAI to assist with a variety of tasks, such as answering questions, providing information, and offering suggestions. I don't have the ability to distinguish between those types of objects. Did you ask daft Alexa for the answer to seven times four by any chance?
I'm more into Northern Soul, Hip-hop, Melt-Banana, English Folk, Punk, Electro, Baroque, Italian opera, Detroit Techno, 90s gay club trax, Jan and Dean, Velvelettes and Peter Maxwell Davies, but that Corncob just scratches my itch.
Update: report from the owner of the rotator to say the pinion and shaft are working well. Looks like I didn't screw up! Yay!
You did a great job!
@@DirkWrightxyz It's still working, so I think it's a definite win.
For "normal" gears, it is quite easy to determine Module from a physical gear: M = OD / (N+2).
OD = the outer diameter of the wheel, N the number of teeth.
So, with an outer diameter of 7.0mm and 12 teeth, you do indeed get a Module 0.5.
To go from Module to pitch, you multiply with PI, so the teeth in this gear should be spaced 1.57 mm apart.
You speak as though you are not a wizard; you are a wizard.
I like the part about unwinding a string from a circle to find the tooth profile. Intriguing parts of creation...
The Terry Pratchett reference just further cements my idea that you're an excellent fellow! The greater the odds, the greater the glory!
I have a photo of one of my work friends having the back of her leather jacket signed by Terry P. She bent right over in front of him to present a horizontal surface and he made a very suitable expression. One of the world's Nice People, sadly missed.
A lot of work goes into making a single gear but it's enjoyable to watch and you get better at it the more you do it
Laughed many times, love the narration and "Miss Cynicism" (aka Aimee). Was actually looking for a video on doing a brass gear with a CNC router but couldn't turn it off, TY!
Congrats on your first gear. I made my first gear a few days ago. What a satisfying feeling, especially for some 60 year-old worn out equipment. Cheers.
Now I want to make more gears. Watchmaking beckons as a future direction, but I have 176 other projects to do first
Oh my we are on the same path. I have finally got myself an indexing head and need to make some gears. I purchased a M1 set for a task that Im not quite ready to do but then discovered the majority of plastic gears appear to be M0.5. I have just ordered a set from China but also discovered less than M1 needs a smaller arbor, 16 rather than the 22 of my M1 set, tooling always gets you. My objective is to make the same sort of gears you have so Im grateful for your honest and direct help, I too am no machinist but I get by.
That 12/13 M0.5 cutter of mine takes a ONE INCH arbor, which is a bit huge
@@MachiningandMicrowaves Gee that is large and imperial to make it more limiting. Personally I get my cutters from Aliexpress at around $80NZ a set and free delivery but you wont find much imperial stuff. I think the 22mm arbor I purchased originally was $49NZ. For a home shop its really impressive what you can get at the moment from China, I suspect it wont continue.
I find it strange that you don't have more followers. The production value is top notch, and the humour is on par with This old tony. I rather like the self deprecating aspect of it.
Greetings from the Netherlands
The algorithm doesn't seem to care about number of subscribers, but sponsors do care a bit. I'm endlessly grateful that ANYONE watches my vids. When folks also subscribe it's thrilling! I am close to a million views and my mother is keeping count, but I'm just enjoying messing about here. I wish I had more time so I could post more frequently
@@MachiningandMicrowaves All I can say is: Keep up what you're doing. Its funny, It's relatable. It's just great
Well done Amy, you got him through another one.
So convoluted! Excellent video. I learned so much, and not so convoluted!
Nicely done! I am a bit surprised you didn't go all out and build a stepper motor indexer just to make the tiny pinion though ;)
Oooh, I feel even MORE seen now! Yeah, I did consider making a wire EDM machine to make the gear. That would be TOTALLY in character...
@@MachiningandMicrowaves and imagine all the other fun stuff you could do with that!
I am SO tempted. Lots of microwave/mmwave waveguide parts are much simpler to make with EDM
@@MachiningandMicrowaves exactly!
@@tommihommi1 Now I've checked, a wire EDM is already on the project list, but it's WAAAAAY down in the running order
I always hit the like button before any video, I figure if a person goes through the trouble of making a video it's worth a 👍, great video, keep'um coming.
All hail the algorithm
Same here, I can always unlike it if it turns out to be nonsense.
@@MachiningandMicrowaves I bet Amy isn't so in front of the game.
Reserving judgment till after the event.
Hmmm, I wonder if AIMEE would do a @BrandonHerrera style "Machining Meme Review" video. That would be scary.
I'm giggling away watching this. You have a knack for story telling indeed here. Love your work - and this was super interesting!
Edit. finished the vid now and yep, that was super satisfying. Love your cheeky humour and well-lit, clearly-focused filming. Brilliant!
Kind words! Thanks.
Still a lot of words, but much better. Good job.
The cutter you used was.5 module? I need to make a similar sized gear for an old doorbell. One you spin a shaft which spins a double ended “clapper” through a set of three gears. One is gone missing. It’s a 12 tooth involute brass gear, outer diameter 10.5mm, shaft 5mm.
Yes, that little pinion was 0.5 mod. A 10.5 mm diameter 12 tooth could be 0.75 mod or possibly 34 diametral pitch. That is a bit tight at the root for a 5.00 mm shaft, but looks correct. Try mod 0.75, pressure angle 20 deg, 12 teeth and see if the root diameter and OD seem OK
evolventdesign.com/pages/blank-calc
Your work is well detailed and pretty good.
0:29 The shrinking of the small nylon gear leads to increase of the stress around the circumference. It shrinks on the axle, but because of the non shrinking of the axle, the stress in the circumference increases, which leads to the snipping of the gear . This effect is the more, the bigger the inner axle is in relation to the gear. It´s a common design flaw.
underrated content
This is def mastery, this is what mastery looks like on so many levels, so many skills mastered, I love the that you operate at such an impressive approach to everything You do, You are ridiculous and it’s absolutely wonderful, I love it!
Wtf? It's his first time doing this, how is this mastery?
Agreed, I'm just a rank beginner and have no idea what I'm doing, but having fun messing about with RUclips. Jeff is right though, I'm ridiculous and it IS wonderful that I can be this ridiculous in public. Given that I'm crushingly shy and that was only the second time I've appeared on screen, I'm prepared to cut myself some serious slack. Maybe in 100 videos' time I might get the hang of all this internet nonsense. Maybe not. It's a jolly way to waste my time enjoying myself. That's enough for me,
@@MachiningandMicrowaves Ridiculously Wonderful! I’m so reserved that I can’t stand to have a camera pointed at me, but more and more as of late I have been feeling this compulsive urge to get started with my own content, which for me would just be me trying to shine light on all the amazing creators I come across, especially the crushingly shy rank beginners 😉
@@ParkerSaint oh man, good question, one that I absolutely won’t have an acceptable answer to lol and just by reading this response I will be wasting your time, which I should apologize for upfront 😬Language is soooooo incredibly difficult, I could make an attempt but it’s destined to come out in too abstract of a way, I certainly couldn’t put it to words for the benefit of anyone outside of me, seems mastery really does create very real division, def a trade off lol.
Tiny part, max satisfaction. Nicely done.
Regards, Preso
Cheers! Huge sigh of relief when I heard from the owner that it fits and the rotator is back in operation.
AndysMachines has an excellent "How to identify unknown gears?" video here on RUclips. Also lots of videos on gearmaking, and making tools to make gears (he makes his own gear hobs, made a gear shaper, shows how to make gears with a slitting saw, etc).
I haven't spotted that one, I'll take a look, thanks!
I was going to suggest the exact same - his channel is a fantastic resource for this sort of thing. I never really understood hobbing until I watched his videos and saw him build the machine, I'd recommend any person with interest in "hobby" (hah, get it) machining should subscribe to him
I just said exactly the same thing above!
Nicely done!
It was an absolute blast playing around and making something that worked on only the second attempt. Enormous fun.
Excellent. I didn't get into Roxy music until 1979 though. Mr Cool!
I was more interested in T Rex, Can, Neu!, Tangerine Dream, obscure English folk songs, then Ramones, Iggy Pop and UK punk in the 70s, plus Stockhausen, medieval polyphony, Reggae, Ska, Corelli, Isao Tomita, Monteverdi, Byrd, Purcell, opera, ballet and 20th century British works by Vaughan Williams, Butterworth, Peter Maxwell Davies, Nyman, Arnold, Tippett, Tavener, Britten and Warlock. But yeah, Mistah Ferry scrubbed up well and knew how to wear a good suit
Great work! Gears are next on my list of things to learn and machine.
Once I found out about using pins to measure the teeth, it got a whole lot easier to understand
@@MachiningandMicrowaves gage pins are super useful. I use them every day it seems like. I got a full set up to an inch pretty early in m my shop
@@MachiningandMicrowaves wait till you figure out how to use 3 pins to measure a hole!
@@FullSendPrecision I have full sets from 0.2 mm up to 10 mm then a few more up to 20 mm, but they are all single, no pairs. I have some thread wires, but those drills were just the right size
@@FullSendPrecision That's an interesting thought, never seen it done. I have a lot of three-point bore micrometers, but I guess you can measure a hole using three different pins and some simple equations, although working that out might take me a few minutes! I guess there are videos about it that would save me the effort.
This was an excellent video. I have seen a few of your other videos, but this one got me to subscribe... Keep up the good work.
I'm still learning how to do all this video stuff, as well as machining. I'm on the nursery slopes of the learning curve, but I'm trying to get better at it one video at a time. I hope folks will find something interesting in watching me mess about making things. I'm having immense fun doing it just for the sheer h*ck and giggles, but when someone has the grace to subscribe, it feel like a bit of an honour, so thanks very much
@@MachiningandMicrowaves I subscribe ONLY to channels that I find useful. Seeing your mistakes and how you fix them is super important to me. I like your style and hope to learn a lot. Others I subscribe to are : This Old Tony, Joe Pie, Blondie Hacks. All provide information with a touch of humor and show their mistakes and successes.
I switched form Vallorbe to Grobet. Once upon a time they were one company - not any more. Though I don't use any files on the lathe.
If I'm not misremembering, the formula for figuring out the outer diameter of a gear is D=2m+m*z
With this, you can use your diameter and the amount of teeth to determine your module profile.
For 7 teeth and a diameter of 9, you'll have 9=2m+m*7, or 9=9m, or m=1.
This of course assumes a standardized gear, which yours might not be, but maybe it'll help in the future =)
Indeed that's right. In this case, to OD was 7.0 mm and 12 teeth, so it certainly works if the gears are not worn and are cut to the standard involute profile.
Extra points for the Pratchet reference!
I learned about gear module last weekend, by opening FreeCAD with the intention of designing and printing a roller-counter mechanism. clicked "add sprocket" and it gave me… not a gear, now I know what "sprocket" means. clicked "add involute" and it gave me an outline where I couldn't specify a diameter, just number of teeth and the mysterious pressure angle and module.
half a dozen iterations and 3D prints later and I still don't have a working roller counter but I believe the problem is the use of cocktail sticks as placeholder axles… brass rod is on order
what I need is eight-tooth 0.9 mod pinions of approx 2-3mm width and with alternate teeth cut back to half width so it's essentially 4-tooth gear stuck to an 8-tooth gear. filament 3D printer with proprietary slicing software is giving very iffy results there. resin printer is on order. I've considered just ordering some brass 8-tooth 0.8 mod pinions and cutting them down myself (and scaling down slightly to suit - desirable actually) but at multiple £ per gear that's too expensive for what I have in mind. roller-counter displays were _everywhere_ so I don't know why I can't find these gears as cheap nylon commodity items
I guess the originals were injection-moulded from Delrin/POM or filled nylon? Once you specify a tooth form and pressure angle, there are only certain solutions for a specified number of teeth and diameter, and as cutters only come in specific MOD or DP values, you can't make gears by specifying the diameter, unless you get really lucky. If you grind your own hobbing cutters, you can make gears of any diameter by making the hob effectively a weird intermediate DP/MOD. Gears are FUN.
@@RoamingAdhocrat On FDM, model in a bottom chamfer and print in spiral vase mode, and print two separately. You'll need to fill it with resin, find the centre (the hole in the first layer will help) and drill it out, and resin them together. The heatbed of the 3D printer is perfect to fast-cure epoxy on at elevated temperature, you can set something like 70°C expecting to see a bit less in the part. Hot cured epoxy also becomes more cohesive. Maybe put something undrneath so you don't drip epoxy on your bed.
Congrats!
I've celebrated with an ENTIRE BOTTLE of Beck's Blue alcohol free beer. Really pushing the boat out here.
This may be late but i wonder if water had seeped into the knurling of the shaft and expanded when it froze, cracking the gear.
Certainly possible, the photos I saw didn't show any obvious sign, but it's a known fault with those models
The cracking of the original gear is typical of Acetal parts having too great a press fit. I learned this decades ago. I just compromised on the interference between the parts and haven't had a failure since. I've made thousands. When you said 12 teeth 7mm OD, I said 0.5 module. :) Coincidentally this little gear is the smallest I produce (in black Acetal). And like this one, mine also drives a feedback position sensor. :) The idea of oversized blank OD only works with cutters designed to cut the OD as well as the flanks. Your involute cutter is not this type.
I realised later that the cutter wasn't right to cut the OD! The original was on a knurled shaft and it's a well known fault with those old rotators.
@@MachiningandMicrowaves Yes I'm sure you did see it. It's an even bigger mistake they made having too much stress on the gear since the shaft is knurled. That means the amount of "grip" ie interference between the parts can be even less meaning less stress. The gears could have lasted damn near forever. I occasionally get units returned with the stress cracked gear to fix. None younger than 35 years old. That means getting the level of stress right resulted in that gear lasting at least 35 years. By the way, when I started 40 years ago making my own gears I was doing it just like you did this one. Now it's all CNC and that 12 tooth gear is done 4 at a time in 1.5 minutes. :) I really liked the vid. You reminded me of the learning curve I went through. I'm not far off retiring now, but I still enjoy making improvements to techniques. Some gears (in low stress use) I am 3d printing in resin.
I think learning about gears is a bit hard at first because engineers suck at writing. But nice work bro. Loved watching and learning with you.
@@thebeerwaisnetwork8024 I've improved a bit since then, but now I need to cut some bevel gears and worms, so the learning curve continues. I must save up some money to invest in a 4th axis drive for my new CNC mill, then life will get much simpler! Perhaps... New videos on the way very soon
The plastic has to be Nylon (PA6). It's cast hard, undersized and somewhat brittle and then conditioned at the factory or during transit in humid atmosphere, absorbing more than 4% its weight/volume in water; naturally it doesn't remain at cast size, it expands! Then it's placed on the shaft and loses just a little moisture, shrinking onto it perfectly, holding tight in spite of being a very slippery material. The moisture is the magic ingredient that makes PA mechanisms super low friction, super abrasion resistant, super silent, and makes it tough and flexible.
Then over the years, depending on how hot it is, it continues shedding moisture and shrinking, until it's cracked by the shaft. Typically you expect them to last well over 10 years, up to maybe 20, not much beyond that under usual conditions.
If you re-condition them regularly by placing them in humid atmosphere, they might last an eternity for all i know. I have had some zipties that i stored in a super dry hot place for 12 years and they got super hard and brittle, and i was able to recondition them, and i'm still using them a few more years later, they're good as new. I just added half a teaspoon of water into the baggie, sealed it somewhat and waited for a few days.
I have a bad habit of repairing weird little plastic mechanisms. Usually cast a replacement out of epoxy using silicone putty as a mould, often partial moulds and recreating the gear piece by piece. I happen to use UHU300 epoxy, i don't know whether that's ideal but it's what i use. It's a 1:1 mix slow cure tough epoxy, but i use 20-30% more hardener (by volume) or just eyeball a sufficiently higher amount of it but not too much. Good mixing is super important, i'm sure you knew that, but it's extra important since we're creating a very off balance mixture. The reason is that the hardener half actually contains all sorts of junk including plasticizer, since the real hardener chemical would take less than 15% by volume, so they bulk it up. Of course it won't cure like that, but not a problem, i throw it on the heatbed of my 3D printer, or arrange some other heating to keep it above 60°C, then even very reluctant mixture will cure.
Very interesting! The gear is pressed on to a knurled section of the shaft but either the hole tolerance fit is wrong or the gear is underspecified, as they are known to break often. Could be designed that way as a safety feature but it's only for a position encoder. They are usually mounted on top of a mast in a casing that's exposed to the weather and appear to have a little grease on them. I guessed Delrin/Acetal/POM as I have some other gears made from that but PA6 makes more sense. Thanks very much for the info
@@MachiningandMicrowaves Arguably if they wanted something to operate heated by the sun, they should have probably picked some other material. Longer chain PAs can be less prone to both absorb and release moisture, so can last longer, but i am lead to believe take longer to condition. Or indeed POM, which doesn't have this sort of ageing mechanism at all, it's cast true to size and it doesn't take up or shed much moisture. It does have an ageing mechanism of its own, it's capable of depolymerisation in warm environments, but then it likely would crack just anywhere but not really from the shaft outwards. This purely radial failure is typical of PA. POM should likely tend to creep around the knurling over a long term, especially when hot, somewhat relaxing the stress that gets manufactured in there, i think.
Oh in case i haven't worded myself well, i use extra hardener to make the overall mix more plasticizer rich, since i vaguely want the epoxy casting to match the flexibility of original PA parts but don't need exceptional solvent resistance. I don't believe it necessarily works entirely the same with all 1:1 epoxies, because i don't really know what others do for their hardener component, whether it's entirely similar. UHU sells its materials (same, often slightly disguised by naming) both to consumers via home improvement stores, and for industrial use, and the industrial datasheet is where i picked up this recommendation to vary the mixture and cure hot to make it actually cure. Hot curing epoxy is always a good idea, it increases adhesion and shear force resistance and also is much quicker than room temperature.
I opine that the module system is more logical, but it's dimensions on a print one way or the other. I have some mod 0.6 gears to make, perhaps that'll be a video.
Look forward to seeing that. I think I'm treating myself to a proper dividing head next time I have any pocket-money
Nice! Thx for the ride along on your first set of matching involutes. Now all you have to be concerned about is the new gear material wearing out the main gear 🤔😳 ... maybe in 100 years ; )
Awesome! I got here right away.😉
You are not a rubbish machinist. Thanks for the entertaining video. How can I make a donation to help you buy tools and materials?
I have been trying to think of something I could do that would justify a Patreon, but I don't think I can make a good enough rewards package. I do enable the Super Thanks button on these videos in case anyone would like to help towards future projects and tooling.
People do love to tell me I'm a rubbish machinist and I suspect they are correct!
Music with rocks in lol i recently read that book
R.i.p. Terry pratchet
Any Roxy fan can't be all bad.
Have you seen the film ..
Flashbacks of a fool ?
Staring Daniel Craig (don't let that put you off)
His co star looks a bit like Amy but with dark hair.
Worth a watch just for the music.
I have no idea who Daniel Craig is, I don't have a TV and rarely watch films, but I know someone with Netflix....
That is a HUGE gear. I can't believe watchmaker youtube sent me here
The sort of watch that needs a fork-lift truck rather than a strap?
Where do you buy a gear cutter with next day delivery, please? (Assuming you're in the UK?)
RDG Tools but I bought other items in the same order so got the DPD next day service.
Saw you on TV the other day. That looked like a long day!
The stress level was extreme after my amplifier died and the radio noise level from the radio mics and video monitor and Port of London links and cellphones overloaded my aperiodic receiver. That meant it was almost impossible to get any result, but we definitely heard that poor production assistant singing Baa Baa Black Sheep. In my lab at home, there's not even a cellphone signal, so although it isn't as radio silent at 1940s Moscow, I can usually get my Great Seal Bug replicas to work after only six hours of delicate adjustment. I managed to appear nonchalant although I was feeling sick to the stomach with stress and worry. Prof Fry is an excellent interviewer and really knows her subjects. It was a great experience working with her and the production team. Despite the stress and time involved, I'd do it again in a heartbeat.
Happy Christmas :-)
ToT is very entertaining but if you really want to learn about gears and ways to make them check out the 'andysmachines' channel. Also you could have just identified the big undamaged gear and the pinion would be the same module size just with 12 teeth.
Sadly the large gear is 100 miles away and my customer doesn't have it as it belongs to someone else. Now I've found Andy's Machines I won't need to guess next time.
yay ... do you know the part number for the inserts, they look just like mine, and I need more ?
Those are from Cutwel, www.cutwel.co.uk/ccgt120408-al-yg100-carbide-turning-inserts-ground-polished-chipbreaker-for-non-ferrous-yg-1 but I only paid about £5 each in a cheap deal. [EDIT: just checked and they are YG10 not YG100. ] The similar ones from Arceurotrade are actually pretty good, but I like the YG-1s. They even do a decent job of cutting those thin steel rods, as the tool pressure and deflection is very low. I also use the CCGT120402 where I need a sharp radius, but the 0.8 radius version lasts much longer and can break a good chip even in 608s aluminium if you push the feed rate right up. I tend to take two balanced cuts at 0.2 mm DOC for finishing to dimension and the 0.8 radius still works well at that, but it's happier with the nose buried a bit more. I have some CCGT060402 inserts that I use mainly on boring bars
Clickspring called he wants his content back :D Altough his are still more in the "better not breath on this" scale...
Well done! Tried my hand on a few wormgears a while back they didn't turn out as nice. Well at least until I stopped using my McGyver way of using a tap to get em done, bought some propper cutters worked fine after that :D!
/cheers!
I love watching watchmakers making PROPERLY-small gears. The sort that disappear if you exhale in their general direction
Just curious, your check mark, @18:39, is it 2 involute curves? ;)
Heh heh, could be....
Well done Neil. You get the Occasional Machinist stamp of approval (or would, if I could find it). I am disappointed that you chose @ThisOldTony 's videos as a reference in preference to mine though - I mean just because he has over 2000 times the subscribers I have, and knows what he is talking about...
Heh heh, I must compile a list of excellent gearcutting vids!
More than likely, that original plastic gear was made of Nylon. This is a common problem, over time the nylon further shrinks and eventually cracks form.
I have never seen a violation of all that is sacred error before. :)
Heh heh, now THAT is attention to detail! Very well spotted! Double internet points to you today.
1:22 Measuring the intact bigger gear might have helped, too, provided you can access it.
@@AlexDiesTrying Sadly, it was 150 miles away, installed on site!
nice job, but did it work?😁
See pinned comment! It worked fine. Sigh of relief from me!
I'm surprised as this is your first, with all of the RF gizmos none with rack and pinion ? Saw tooth capacitor using variable length gear teeth... 🙂
It's just weird I know, everything I've worked on has had threads, not even worm gears. Now I have the scent of pinion blood in my nostrils, I want to make MORE GEARS!
So a gear is easy to cut in the home workshop, if you have a lathe, a milling machine and a dividing head. Not to mention a involute gear tool circa £50.
Cutter was £25 from RDG Tools. I already had the arbour. I could have ground a single-tooth hob, but life is too short. I used the punch grinder simply because it had the right number of detents. I could have made a simple dividing plate and stop, and used a milling attachment on a lathe, but this was an initial voyage of discovery. I think I'd be confident enough to try grinding a single-point hob now, and I had a load of fun making these little pinions
Crazy how the boomer humor makes me think of my dad.
I missed out on being a boomer by a few years. They had the Summer of Love and the white heat of technology, no speed limits, no crash helmets. We got the oil crisis, recessions, locked out of property ownership, blanket speed limits, laws about everything that was fun, AIDS, terror of nuclear war, unemployment, homelessness and the gift of public assets to the 1%. Dad jokes are a reasonable response to all that I think. I'm a great-grandfather so I cut myself a little slack these days. My dad was absolutely the worst at dad jokes, I could never surpass him.
Faultless work but I see no regard to cost. Now I have been on this planet ten years more than your good self and in all that time I have honed the dont throw money at a problem just re think it. Now to make a one off pinion the purchase of an expensive cutter is not a good choice at all, so lets go back to the early days of clockmaking and look for an alternative to a solid pinion easy to make and of extremely low cost with no special tooling required with a life expectancy of a hundred years plus. The lantern pinion fits this role perfect ally co could I recommend you look at this form of pinion you will find it interesting honest. Finally can be made in the lathe without removing the pinion blank from the chuck for all the further machining. Just a hint you will find that sewing needles are perfect to make every thing else needed.
The motivation was that I'd never tried an involute cutter and just wanted to see what it was like. I could have ground up a simple hobbing cutter. Also there are hundreds of those rotators out there all with the same potential fault so I've made a batch of these using that cutter. I'm reading George Daniels Watchmaking book in detail and I want to try lots of other techniques but until I can retire from the Day Job, time is very scarce
I would recommend John Wildings books on how to make various clocks (a book for each clock) though more importantly how to make all the parts yourself from the Brass without using castings. These Wilding books are a mine of useful information on how things are done.
@@jas20per I borrowed one of those little books some time around 2010, might have been for a small skeleton clock? Can't remember if I ever gave it back. Better go check all the bookshelves!
Who doesn't have an expensive Swiss file habit though?
Hah, welcome back. Hopefully you have more free time now that your flux capacitor project's nearly done.
That would be nice! My mother was very proud to see her only son making a fool of himself on BBC 2 TV last night with the most splendid Professor Fry. Hi Mum!
@@MachiningandMicrowaves 200 hours, that's a lot of commitment mate. Well done.
@@HM-Projects More like 250 in total, but apart from the sleepless nights and extreme stress it was HUGE fun
@@MachiningandMicrowaves and it was good to put a face to the voice 😃
Clickspring has some neat videos on cutting gears
Chris has some neat videos on EVERYTHING! That's a quality level to aspire to. I don't know why it took me so long to get round to gearcutting.
@@MachiningandMicrowaves Agree... He's an exceptional machinist and metal worker. You're not so bad yourself! Been a hobby machinist for ages, but I've still not machined my own gears. Just buy gear stock for the 0.2M and 0.3M gears I use in my hobby pursuits, but would like to some day, just to say "I did it". Great video!
Well done you two. For future reference, but I'm sure you already worked it out, you could have measured the other intact gear to get the DP/module of the difficult to measure broken one.
Watched you last night, so that's what you look like. Curious the fact that Oyster cards being contactless 4 years before cash cards wasn't mentioned in a history heavy program.🤔
Sadly, the other gear is 100 miles away and wasn't even with the friend who asked me to make the part, so I was a bit light on metrological examples! I used a body double during the filming of course. The researchers working on the programme are pretty good, but they sometimes miss some details. Lots of he historical background was scrubbed around, so I'll go into it properly. Money laundering in Panama. Marvellous.
@@MachiningandMicrowaves ok you are forgiven.😉
I was all gear up for this video, a good video to get your teeth into. Thank you for sharing. Weeeeeeee!
Oh, Man, have I just found a channel featuring the two hobbies where I have almost no clue what I’m doing? Looks like it. But I only have a Taig lathe (plus a very clapped-out ML7), and a KX3 plus a collection of Morse keys and paddles. I liked the video,cand you have a new subscriber.. 73, g0nmd
Watch this space for lots more videos this year! I'm just doing the setup for my new SYIL X5 CNC mill. It's a beast, but it'll mean I can make complex compound curved antenna reflectors and all sorts of microwave goodies. Cheers, Neil G4DBN in sunny East Yorkshire
It looks so simple ...
22:00 tooling names
MGMN150-GH01 www.cutwel.co.uk/1-5mm-h01-general-grooving-inserts-korloy-mgmn-g-series but I can't find the code of the toolholder for those inserts. I prefer the MGMN over the push-in style
Poetry!....
Roxy Music was good in the 70s.
I just bought myself a CPL 593H tee shirt because of your comment! Light blue Rover Mini Clubman if I remember correctly?
That brass is awfully red-ish for brass... Looks more like bronze by colour... Tho, the sounds of `er wha are that of machining brass... Either way, both would be a decent material for what you are doing... And the colour might just be deceiving me through your shop lighting, your camera and finally my 15 year old lcd screen... Also, why do i have a feeling that i have seen this video of yours before? Is it divine machinist visions, or have i fucked up playing with my big lathe and traveled back in time today and am seeing this video again - for the first time?
I forgot to apply the colour correction after I left the halogen machine light on by mistake, so everything is a bit too pink/yellow. I'm going to replace that spot with another 100 watt cool white LED photo light with remote control, but I need to get the ceiling rails fitted for the lights and pantographs first. I ran a short video of an animated on-screen annotation last week as a teaser just to test my Wacom tablet, but re-shot it completely for this video, so you weren't imagining things!
I'm just here for the wheeeeee
WOW - PRETTY CLOSE TO THE THREE JAW CHUCK, WHY? - YOU HAD PLENTY OF SHAFT TO NOT RUN THE CUTTER THAT CLOSE TO THE SPINNING CHUCK - SOMETHING MY FEARLESS FRESHMEN DO ALL THE TIME IN MY METAL'S CLASS - AGAIN, I ASK, WHY?
I missed it though, didn't I? I guess because I have choices and at my advanced age, nobody gets to tell me what to do! Unless I screw up and wreck something, then EVERYONE gets to say "We told you so"! Actually the real reason was it was stupidly late at night and I hadn't checked the index position, so cut one tooth wrong and had to machine the end off and do it all again and didn't want to upset the concentricity. Everyone sing along "Neil's doing sketchy sh*t, doo-dah, doo-dah. Hope he gets away with it, oh, doo-dah-day"
"Remake Remodel", "Virginia Plane"..... Mmmmmmmm.... Eno on VCS3..... Mmmmmmmmmm
I am wearing my CPL 593H tee shirt right now
@@edgeeffect I bought the single of Virginia Plain in a tiny record shop in Venice in November 1972. I think I've still got four vinyl albums, but then Punk happened and Ferry went all Tony Bennett...
@@MachiningandMicrowaves Gordon Bennet. ... sorry, couldn't resist... you left it open for me.
Plastics age, and shrink.
Hannah Fry not nearly as rude to you as AIMEE is.
Hannah was the perfect host. Interested, knowledgeable, professional, funny, giggly, razor-sharp intellect and all-round excellent human. Aimee, however, was coded on a Monday morning by someone with a grudge against the Universe.
I seldomly know what to say to an intellectual. But it donned on me. The recording of compressible fluids by your electro-mechanic device was better than most any of the ones I've observed from any of the guests that Brian Greene will interview. It definitely makes it much nicer to be exposed to more accurate recordings of an 11hr or so talk.
No, don't rinse & repeat. Waste of time, water & shampoo!🙂
I knew it - this whole channel is AI CGI. Proof: at 27s, you see the 4mm shaft against his finger. The finger is at least 7 diameters across, that would make his finker 2.1cm across at the tip, thats a measurement only an AI would make, having confused the tip of things it finds in the other 97% of the internet.
BLEEP BLOOP +++ETAOIN SHRDLU
I'm a large language model trained by OpenAI to assist with a variety of tasks, such as answering questions, providing information, and offering suggestions. I don't have the ability to distinguish between those types of objects.
Did you ask daft Alexa for the answer to seven times four by any chance?
Was enjoying the video then went and done it played crap Hilly Billy music so bye bye and unsubscribe
I'm more into Northern Soul, Hip-hop, Melt-Banana, English Folk, Punk, Electro, Baroque, Italian opera, Detroit Techno, 90s gay club trax, Jan and Dean, Velvelettes and Peter Maxwell Davies, but that Corncob just scratches my itch.
GNU TerryPratchett. Good to hear the owner is happy :)