Very well done training video with all the necessary explanations. My home in Puerto Vallarta will now have a cpvc valve added to the landscape sprinkler system instead of a bronze valve. Glad I saw your video first. Thank you.
Very nicely laid out job Tim, great communication on the wiping down the fittings after connecting not only on the pvc but the copper joints as well to keep the copper from turning a bluish green where others fail to wipe their joints, also nice comments on holding the pvc joints tightly engaged for a better fit. Thanks Ira
I would have finished all the soldering before doing the PVC operation, no matter. Will the air in the expansion tank on the side may get saturated? I enjoy your videos.
Cheaper, PVC ball valve $5? Lasts a couple of years maybe? High Quality CPVC, True Union Ball Valve (like CPEX or Hydro Seal Canada) $20-$35? But lasts maybe 10+ years? But more importantly they work (adjustable, replaceable seals & parts) and don’t seize up. Nice to watch someone work, who enjoys his craft. Neat beach views! 👍🏽 (I don’t work for either of these companies).
A PVC street ell would eliminate the need for the butt piece and thus one glue joint. Also, just out of curiosity, why are you guys opposed to using flex connectors on water heaters out east?
Great video. Love your channel. In my neck of the woods up in St. Louis the code and stuff are a bit different. Expansion tank needs to be a minimum of 18” away from heater and would have to strap that expansion tank if it is sideways like that. They don’t require strapping if you 90 up vertical. But that’s my neck of the woods. Not slamming ya or anything. Just different where I live. Keep up the great videos.
I've heard you should never cool down your solder joints with water (or a damp rag/sponge) because it impacts the strength/quality of the solder. Is there any truth to this, or is it ok to do what was done in this video?
This is somewhat true. I always allow my solder joints to cool down enough for the solder to firmly set. Then I will cool down the pipes so I can work more sooner
I agree with the female adapters splitting .. anytime I change a hose Bibb in pvc I cut off the threaded x slip 90 and install a 1x3/4 slip x thread bushing in a 1x3/4 reducer 90 then tighten the hose Bibb in first then glue it back on
Ive seen people using the female pvc adapters and they did not split or leak. Will they split over time as they get old or is it something that will happen right away if its going to happen?
I’m sure you installed the expansion tank last. Might not hurt to warn folks not to solder on a sealed line connected to pvc. The vapors from the glue and primer can explode once they get hot.
Good job question for you. When we bought our house, it has an electric water heater and it goes from the water heater to copper to PVC. We were told that it did not have die metal connections. It just goes right from A copper male into the water heater should I remove those and put the die metal joints in? Hope I got the terms correct.
Is it proper to thread the male pvc adapter all the way into the copper female side? I have been having issues with leaks and have not been tightening that far.
Male PVC fittings are pretty weak and leak all the time. We generally use a schedule 80 toe nipple (or regular nipple cut in half) with a coupler to the PVC pipe. Then you can spin whatever female fitting you want on to the nipple. The extra meat on on the sch 80 threads helps a ton.
Just wondering : With the EXPANSION TANK hanging on the end like that, isn’t there TOO MUCH WEIGHT hanging on the end like that .? ps.. Like your VIDEOS 👍
So I have no leaks in the 40+ joints I just sweated, but every threaded connection has a slow drip(plastic to copper) with just using Teflon tape.. did I hear you say you used Teflon tape and joint compound? What’s your procedure?
Rapidly cooling off in fresh solder joint can and will cause that solder to crack when it changes size rapidly. That will never be considered "best practice"!
@@PLUMBINGWITHTIM Thanks Tim. I just hasd to replces a 1 1/4" diameter copper section from a well pressure tank that had a pinhole leak, and replaced some trashed PVC. I had a threaded 1" PVC to copper junction and it now has a very slow weep despite using tape. I gues I should have used that compound instead. The copper replacement was a bear, too. I'm so much bett at elecrical work- and have respect for the guys to competently get plumbing installed.
To prevent from cracking u need a pvc to brass transition fitting which cost around $4 not the .39 cent adapter. The heat will eventually split your connection
Why are "how to" videos" so lengthy and boring, with all kinds of not so helpful info. All I wanted to know is how to connect copper to pvc pipe, that it; not all the other uninteresting info.
Very well done training video with all the necessary explanations. My home in Puerto Vallarta will now have a cpvc valve added to the landscape sprinkler system instead of a bronze valve. Glad I saw your video first. Thank you.
Very nicely laid out job Tim, great communication on the wiping down the fittings after connecting not only on the pvc but the copper joints as well to keep the copper from turning a bluish green where others fail to wipe their joints, also nice comments on holding the pvc joints tightly engaged for a better fit. Thanks Ira
5:57 got the answer I was looking for. Thanks for the video. 👍🏼
Exactly why I came here for
Love your intro - Looks like you service the entire world!
I would have finished all the soldering before doing the PVC operation, no matter. Will the air in the expansion tank on the side may get saturated? I enjoy your videos.
Realy good man, learn a lot of your skills, keep teaching through this videos, that's knowledge that build others, thank you very much!
Nice video Tim, I never get bored of your videos on both of your Channels! From Ray Spring Hill, FL.
Thanks so much Ray. I appreciate it
Cheaper, PVC ball valve $5? Lasts a couple of years maybe? High Quality CPVC, True Union Ball Valve (like CPEX or Hydro Seal Canada) $20-$35? But lasts maybe 10+ years? But more importantly they work (adjustable, replaceable seals & parts) and don’t seize up. Nice to watch someone work, who enjoys his craft. Neat beach views! 👍🏽 (I don’t work for either of these companies).
You told me exactly what I need to know.
Thank you for the great video good sir! Very helpful before getting into a small DIY project at home.
Watching from Melbourne Florida!!
A PVC street ell would eliminate the need for the butt piece and thus one glue joint. Also, just out of curiosity, why are you guys opposed to using flex connectors on water heaters out east?
Thanks for the video. This is exactly what I was looking for
TIM YOU ARE THE MAN....
FANTASTIC WELL DONE.
I ALWAYS ENJOY WATCHING YOUR VIDEOS. YOUR WORK IS AMAZING MY FRIEND
Thank you for watching
Great video, thanks Tim!
Just curious, how old was the water heater you pulled out?
Nice video! You can also use a threaded pvc nipple to female adapter
I always was under the impression that it had to be flexible connection from main water line to water heater overall good information
Great video. Love your channel. In my neck of the woods up in St. Louis the code and stuff are a bit different. Expansion tank needs to be a minimum of 18” away from heater and would have to strap that expansion tank if it is sideways like that. They don’t require strapping if you 90 up vertical. But that’s my neck of the woods. Not slamming ya or anything. Just different where I live. Keep up the great videos.
I've heard you should never cool down your solder joints with water (or a damp rag/sponge) because it impacts the strength/quality of the solder. Is there any truth to this, or is it ok to do what was done in this video?
This is somewhat true. I always allow my solder joints to cool down enough for the solder to firmly set. Then I will cool down the pipes so I can work more sooner
I agree with the female adapters splitting .. anytime I change a hose Bibb in pvc I cut off the threaded x slip 90 and install a 1x3/4 slip x thread bushing in a 1x3/4 reducer 90 then tighten the hose Bibb in first then glue it back on
Thanks Ken for watching
Maybe. Try schedule 80, better quality CPVC pipe nipples, like Spears or similar? Lots of aquarium and pool systems users seem to use these fittings.
Ive seen people using the female pvc adapters and they did not split or leak. Will they split over time as they get old or is it something that will happen right away if its going to happen?
Cool video. Thank you. 😊
Very helpful. Thank you.
I’m sure you installed the expansion tank last. Might not hurt to warn folks not to solder on a sealed line connected to pvc. The vapors from the glue and primer can explode once they get hot.
Good job question for you. When we bought our house, it has an electric water heater and it goes from the water heater to copper to PVC. We were told that it did not have die metal connections. It just goes right from A copper male into the water heater should I remove those and put the die metal joints in? Hope I got the terms correct.
Thank you sir, was looking for this.
Thanks Tim.
Is it proper to thread the male pvc adapter all the way into the copper female side? I have been having issues with leaks and have not been tightening that far.
Male PVC fittings are pretty weak and leak all the time. We generally use a schedule 80 toe nipple (or regular nipple cut in half) with a coupler to the PVC pipe. Then you can spin whatever female fitting you want on to the nipple.
The extra meat on on the sch 80 threads helps a ton.
Nice one! Enjoyed it!
I will need to connect a PVC from water heater relief valve to a copper drain pipe that goes to outside of the condo.
Thx
Thank you!
👍
Nicely done!
great job Tim.... pvc male only to copper thanks
Water cooling the male thread joint may weaken the joint I think.
Female copper. I would have done it all wrong using male copper. One more trip to the hardware store... :) Thanks for saving me from that mistake.
Maybe you could do your own minute shorts, and be a hit with people like you.
As always learning is not fun for some.
nice
Just wondering : With the EXPANSION TANK hanging on the end like that, isn’t there TOO MUCH WEIGHT hanging on the end like that .? ps.. Like your VIDEOS 👍
If the bladder leaks and fills that tank it's gonna bend that copper
I live in Cocoa and need a repair similar to this. Would you consider doing mine? If so how can I contact you?
Tim..ok to transition copper to pvc for pressure relief line to drain outside?
Thanks
How long did you wait to turn the water back on?
So I have no leaks in the 40+ joints I just sweated, but every threaded connection has a slow drip(plastic to copper) with just using Teflon tape.. did I hear you say you used Teflon tape and joint compound? What’s your procedure?
Only if you are using a pvc male adapter threading into female copper or brass
Teflon tape and dope
You didn't comment on the substance you used on the copper threading when connecting to pvc.Is it pipe dope?
Yes
Thanks for watching
Well in texas pvc for water pressure is a big no no inside home or building and you are using it for a water heater? Asking for major flood
Well codes vary from towns and county
Here that’s what separates us
Lmao what?
Rapidly cooling off in fresh solder joint can and will cause that solder to crack when it changes size rapidly. That will never be considered "best practice"!
In addition to the teflon tape, what did you use on the PVC at the 6:09 mark? - " " -seal"?
Pipe dope
@@PLUMBINGWITHTIM Thanks Tim. I just hasd to replces a 1 1/4" diameter copper section from a well pressure tank that had a pinhole leak, and replaced some trashed PVC. I had a threaded 1" PVC to copper junction and it now has a very slow weep despite using tape. I gues I should have used that compound instead. The copper replacement was a bear, too. I'm so much bett at elecrical work- and have respect for the guys to competently get plumbing installed.
Need to use transition fitting going into female adapter
Explain
To prevent from cracking u need a pvc to brass transition fitting which cost around $4 not the .39 cent adapter. The heat will eventually split your connection
I learned the hard way
The answer is 6 minutes into the video.
Garcia Christopher Robinson Jason Brown Kenneth
Sure rapidly cooling that copper at 5:50 is a good idea? Might crack the solder.
Why are "how to" videos" so lengthy and boring, with all kinds of not so helpful info. All I wanted to know is how to connect copper to pvc pipe, that it; not all the other uninteresting info.
Hlo sir