Nobody makes better plumbing how-to's. Yours are accurate, informative, and efficient. You do in 10 minutes what it takes others 30 minutes or more to teach! Thank you!
I agree... he does a nice job of being an expert but humble too. I think on weekends he is the guy that makes boats out of screen doors and covers them with sealing goo...lol
A dielectric union is needed between copper and brass attached to galvanized. Ford makes a IPS slip style adapter that will slip over IPS pipe and has a IPS thread adapter. It also has a locking bolt to prevent the joint from slipping off.
Bought a 40 year old house trailer and am fixing it up. Have just about all the different types of pipe in it from repairs done over the years by previous owners. Am going to rip all of it out and pex the whole house. This video really is a great help. Thanks.
@Got2learn I have to tell you, right now, you are my hero! For 3 days I have been searching for a proper way to repair a broken connection at a solder point where the previous individual soldered (or attempted) a copper pipe to a threaded galvanized elbow connected to a galvanized pipe. I discovered it trying to figure out how to remove an old galvanized outdoor spigot from a galvanized pipe. Since the spigot was rusted, I went to turn it, and it turned the entire pipe breaking the soldered joint. Where the copper pipe was soldered into the threaded elbow, it came out clean. It looked like a plug of solder typically found at a cold solder joint. I have searched high and low as to how I might connect the copper piping and the elbow. Being a novice to self-help plumbing issues, I had no idea One should not try to solder 2 dissimilar! Now I know what I have to do. Time to seek a brass coupling. I thank you for that. I can't use PEX or a SharkBite in this location because of the limited spacing to work. Do let me know if my idea of putting a brass piece between the copper and galvanized steel is not the solution I think it is. On my way to Home Depot! Thank you!
Thank you so much for this detailed video on how to transition from one pipe to another. Because you you demonstrated different scenarios that could happen, I was able to use a dresser coupler to fix my galvanized pipe.
Drain next keep these vids coming man much respect you and roger wak field in Texas and and Steve lav in Boston best RUclips plumbing vids I learn a lot !
I don’t work with galvanized much but I got into a project the other day with it. I was about to connect old galvanized to a copper fitting but my brain knew something wasn’t right. Thanks for your video for reminding me to get some brass in between!
I hope that you check back. There was a time when I hired out plumbing repair because I wasn't working from home. I'm now noticing that, in more than one instance, people I hired didn't transition properly. Years later, I am now embarking on ripping out my entire supply infrastructure because it is almost fully blocked & there are sections which look like they could burst at any time. Please get the word out to use transitions & to check for grounding, too.
I have a need to transition from an existing 2"copper to ABS as part of a church kitchen renovation in a building 60 years old - this is for drains as well as vent lines. Look forward to your drain line video. This is in Ontario, Canada.
If you use a compression slip joint transition be sure its accessible if it's going to be closed off, solder a copper to abs adapter or a mechanical joint like fernco
Dude you're the best, been trying to figure out how to transition from Galvanized to pex you're the first and only one i found ...dresser coupling. THANKS.
The gratitude goes both ways. You are helping DIY like myself. Check out, ChrisFix, he does make videos just like you, conscise and informative. Hope you make 1 mil followers soon. I will be watching your videos.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I learned the hard way on the brittleness of old CPVC on a reno project many years ago. I wish this video was available and on my recommended back then. This project would have been a lot less difficult.
I just cant fall in love with shark bite fittings. I could use one for repair and then remove and upgrade to either plastic or copper. I also have much more affection for Uponor PexA than clamps. I like your videos. I think I have seen every single one.
Thank you so much Roger, I really appreciate that. Yes, some people prefer not using Sharkbite fittings and that's ok, I personally prefer having them outside of a wall, but I know plenty of contractors that installed these inside walls and never had any problems with them, it really depends if they are correctly installed or not I believe.
Thanks, for helping me out. I was trying to figure out what types of connections are on some old pipes and you showed one in the video its the compression fittings you showed to adapt steel tubing. unfortunately this is just a small step in what I have to do lol. but it definitely helps .
Had a plumber come to the house and told me you can’t transition from one to the other, everything needed to be replaced.. according to your video.. their are some very dishonest people in the industry. Lost my whole basement due to freezing pipes.. next week I will be replacing all the pipes. Thanks for this video.
Poly pipe only had problems on the hot side and it was just the fittings not the pipe itself, thats why they had a class action law suit against it along with some other types of b-pex, stick with uponor type a-pex (the clear pex) and use the expansion rings made from the same material and get 25% more flow rate compared to crimp style rings... I own a plumbing company for 21 years and was voted best repair plumber in the state of Oklahoma!!!
I don’t doubt that this has been your experience, but the statement about it only being on the hot side and only on the fittings is inaccurate. I’m a plumber myself and have personally been involved on far more whole home repipes due to poly pipe failures than I can begin to count. I’m almost every situation (possibly even 100%) these failures where on the piping, not the fittings. I’ve also seen an equal amount of failures on both hot and cold pipe.
6:59 What was used to hold the strap into the wood? Wood screws? I've never seen strap that looks like that, and the one kind I have seen which is pretty universal at building supply stores is very expensive, about $16 per roll plus tax. And you have to have something to cut it with.
Very good.thing is.. If you haven't done This jobs before,get Someone to help you,since plumbing its tricky...if can take to the store pics of everything You need,and buy quality parts when posible...
Brass to steel will still corrode. A dielectric union will work, but you can't bury them or drywall over them. Dielectric nipples, like you find on water heaters are good, for 3/4". But total re-pipe is best in the case of steel pipe. As Colin Powell said to Daddy Bush, "You touch it, you own it. " Another great video, thanks.
Best transitioning video out here more in depth on how to transition, makes me wonder now if I should add 8' of pex under my kitchen cabinet or just use new galvanized pipe again going all the way from kitchen cabinet the elbow through the wall all way to the water heater outlet of 5' pex? Just don't know if the pex can handle the water heater heat even though I would yet connect the pex into braided stainless steel hose coming out of the water heater?
Good tip if transitioning from CPVC to copper, solder your female adaptor before putting it on the transition fitting. The heat from soldering could compromise the CPVC. So get it soldered, and let it cool before
Thanks for the great video on alternative methods for joining various pipe materials. I was wondering if there are any special additional tricks if having to do such a project for 1-1/4" galvanized hydronic heating system piping? Thanks for any info you might be able to offer.
Another option if you dont want to solder when converting copper to pex is to use ProPress fittings. They make adapters that go from Copper to Pex. All you need is a manual propress tool, if you don't want to spend the ~$1000 for the power press tool
5:46 I don't understand the parts that are being used to transition between galvanized steel and the pex (the one on the left). It looks like male PVC threads coming out of the steel, with a brass ring around it. Don't know if that's one piece or two. Can you do a video showing that connection being put together, and what it's made up of? Also, there's a crimp ring, but I don't know what's inside the pex, so I don't know what the pex is being crimped around. You say to 'use the same adapters as before' but I don't see that set up anywhere in the video.
At 7:32, as you show a pipe threading tool in operation, your camera does not show how the thread is actually cut. For those unfamiliar with a manual pipe threader, the handle, itself, does not have to rotate around the pipe being threaded-- only the cutter head. Using a ratchet mechanism, the threader cutter head moves when the handle is pulled from right to left (facing the work), then the handle is ratcheted back to its starting position on the right.
Connecting galvanized to Cpvc. Can I use a Cpvc fiiting with Cpvc male and Cpvc sweat adaptor ? Or using Cpvc fitting with female cpvc and sweat cpvc directly to galvanized thread end without using a Union fitting ?
I went into a house to install a softener and I wasn’t fully awake and when I went to cut the lines I realized it was all galvanized. Luckily the guy just said rip it all out. That was a long day
The polybutylene was perfect for mobile home manufacturers. If the "roof" leaks didn't destoy the particle board flooring, the plumbing would. Most travel trailers and mobile homes are designed to self destruct.
one more method on copper pipe you can use brass compression fittings that can give you a male or female thread on the other end. 5/8 for 1/2 pipe and 7/8 for 3/4 pipe. i have even used a flaring tool and used flare fittings as well on copper. they give you a male or female thread. then use adapters to whatever you want. don't use the compression ends on pex or other plastic pipe.
I just came across a SharkBite coupler with a threaded female end. It looks like it's designed for use with theaded steel pipe. I'm wondering if that is suitable for use with galvanized to Copper transitions?
The corrosion between copper and galvanized steel pipe is called electrolysis. Even with a short copper fittings like a coupling electrolysis will still occur for up to about 1 inch or 1 and 1/4 inch pipe you can use 6 inch brass nipples to prevent this afterwards going to a larger diameter size pipe you have to go to 8 inches in length and so on and so on. Or you can simply use dielectric unions which has in it a plastic collar and a rubber washer separating the two types of metals but even with this Union I have seen electrolysis occur for instance this morning I prefer nipples but unions are much more convenient and useful when separating the water lines for repairs or service for instance or when you have a water line you have to connect to and you can't completely stop the water flow
If you do this, show it for a second story laundry with washing machine pan as well as a second story floor drain; and maybe also for a basement floor drain (breaking up concrete is hard to do - song lyrics in there when you take out concrete).
Hey dude! I do not understand why there is not any corrosion between the steel pipe and the Cu pipe when you use a brass nipple (plz see at 6:00). I do think there is a full conductivity of the current ( electron) between the Steel and the copper pipe. So the steel gets oxydized by the powerful Cu ! ;) Thank you about your explanation
The second page of this guide explains it very well why a "break" or "insulator" is needed to prevent galvanic corrosion from two dissimilar metals, check it out: www.copper.org/applications/plumbing/techcorner/pdf/galvanic_corrosion.pdf
@@Got2Learn I am ok with your paper. Anyway, I suggest you to take an ohmeter to test the electrical conduction between the steel pipe and the Cu pipe putting the electrodes on them. So, you should measure something near of zero ohm because I see something looking like a full piece of brass on the video. It s not really a di electric adapter ( you should measure an infinite resistivity). You have ever use it in another video. ;)
Yes, dielectric unions are very good too, but if you do not want a union, a brass fitting is the other way to go, it's still going to corrode, it's just going to take MUCH longer ;)
@@Got2Learn why do you Say 'it takes much longer' ? Fe gives fe2+ then fe3+ ( rusty ) The Steel disappears in the water due the electro chemistry reaction with the Cu. So you miss the thread of the steel pipe. It s so embarrassing !
Very nice video overall. But I'm curious about the polyb to pex connector, I have found other videos where the copper colour ring goes on the poly b side and the black ring on the pex side. That is also consistent with my 1992 plumbing at home. Can you clarify?
So, I'm replacing a brass curbstop valve and it is situated on a 3/4 inch (schedule 80 I think) PVC. It looks like the original pipe is glued into a (MIP fitting?) and then threaded into the valve. I'm wondering if it is necessary for me to do what they did because my replacement pipe is threaded already? Can't I just thread it in with joint compound? (of course I will need to glue the new pipe to the old with a coupling back where I cut it)
My house was built in Texas USA in 1988. I have PB pipe in the ground, transitioning to copper just prior to the feed valve which lives in an access box just outside the house foundation. There is no PB in the house, only copper. I have 3 separate feeds into different wings of the house and one of them has developed a leak at the PB-to-copper transition (compression union). The union is well outside the valve box (about 2 feet). I can cut the PB back, lengthen the copper, and install a new union/coupler. But unless I install a second box, the transition will get backfilled and live underground (as it has for 34 years). I have a couple of PB-to-PB repairs in the ground elsewhere in the yard, where trenchers cut the PB years ago. Those repairs are buried in the ground and seem to be doing just fine. Is it OK and advisable to do the PB-to-copper transition in the ground with a SharkBite coupler? Or should I locate and use a new compression coupler/union for this underground fix? Should I place the transition in a box instead of burying it? I have to do one of these things ; I can't afford to dig up the hundreds of feet of buried PB and have copper all the way to the street.
It can be done, but the pipes in the rubber joint must be metal or it's squash the plastic and not seal correctly, so you'd need to use a "threaded to pvc" adaptor for this to work.
Apologies but I'm still confused on what fitting I need for my galvanzied to Pex A connection. My galvanzied pipe is 3/4" and I'm able to unscrew the pipe from the female galvanized piece. Thanks in advance!
I read several months ago that slip-on fittings (i. e. Shark Bite) should not be used on piping which will be concealed (i. e. behind a wall). Is this still an issue with Shark Bite?
Personally, I wouldn't but many people do, it all depends on your level of comfort. Did you watch my video on these?: ruclips.net/video/V48FQBbeZhk/видео.html
Thank you so much for making this video. I have been wondering how to transition from the galvanized pipe to something else for a few years now. Thank you great video!
What is your opinion about connecting galvanized to pex using brass pex adapter ? I am concerned about dissimilar metal connection and corrosion. If you don't suggest such transition - what is the other way to connect old galv pipe to new pex pipe
We are without water after the freeze and plumbers have a long waiting list. So we need your help. There is an old galv. steel connector from our well that is 2 inch ext. diameter (1 1/2 inch threaded female interior). What adapter do we need to connect to this that will reduce to a 1 inch pex pipe on the other end?
I have a hole in a 6’ run of galvanized 1/2”. It’s connected on both ends. Can I use the threads to the existing galvanized ends with shark bites & replace the 6’ pipe with pex? Which shark bite for 1/2” galvanize repair?
@@Got2Learn I checked the link that you sent. I actually needed a male threaded end. I bought several of the male & female type. I think the female will be needed at some point. I’m going into the elbow. The pipe with the hole has thread on both ends. I’m just waiting on Amazon, delivering on different days?? Bought crimper, rings, ring remover pliers, pex pipes etc. Figured I’d better buy what I might need if the project grows on me! Thank you for responding. Great videos.
@@Got2Learn Most videos don’t recommend transition with different metals?? Corrosion sets in & compromises the connection. How long would this connection last?....galvanized to brass. My goal is to install a Manabloc pex pipes & do away with galvanized all together. Will it last at least 6 months to1 year?
Yes, electrolysis will be a problem no matter what but by installing brass and not copper, you are mitigating the problem. If you want to be extra safe, you can add a 6" brass nipple + female Sharkbite on both ends, that will prolong the time before it starts, but the best thing is to get rid of the steel for it not to happen ;)
Nobody makes better plumbing how-to's. Yours are accurate, informative, and efficient. You do in 10 minutes what it takes others 30 minutes or more to teach! Thank you!
So very nice of you, thank you so much 😃😃😃
I agree... he does a nice job of being an expert but humble too. I think on weekends he is the guy that makes boats out of screen doors and covers them with sealing goo...lol
⋯⋯
Agree more. He didnt tell us what he ate for lunch. BTW, I am having a slice. Haha.
Excellent points. It's so UNcommon to find RUclips Vids specifically talking about galvanized.
I really need this
😇😇😇
A dielectric union is needed between copper and brass attached to galvanized. Ford makes a IPS slip style adapter that will slip over IPS pipe and has a IPS thread adapter. It also has a locking bolt to prevent the joint from slipping off.
Timely, mate. Thanks. I'm just redoing my house's 44 year-old plumbing and it's always good to learn from you.
Fantastic, you are very welcome Luis, glad I could help you out :)
You are a plumbing guru!!! I have been able to install copper pipes in my house and many transitions. I got complements from a plumber!!! Thank You.
Bought a 40 year old house trailer and am fixing it up. Have just about all the different types of pipe in it from repairs done over the years by previous owners. Am going to rip all of it out and pex the whole house. This video really is a great help. Thanks.
Awesome, have fun man!
@Got2learn I have to tell you, right now, you are my hero! For 3 days I have been searching for a proper way to repair a broken connection at a solder point where the previous individual soldered (or attempted) a copper pipe to a threaded galvanized elbow connected to a galvanized pipe. I discovered it trying to figure out how to remove an old galvanized outdoor spigot from a galvanized pipe. Since the spigot was rusted, I went to turn it, and it turned the entire pipe breaking the soldered joint. Where the copper pipe was soldered into the threaded elbow, it came out clean. It looked like a plug of solder typically found at a cold solder joint. I have searched high and low as to how I might connect the copper piping and the elbow. Being a novice to self-help plumbing issues, I had no idea One should not try to solder 2 dissimilar! Now I know what I have to do. Time to seek a brass coupling. I thank you for that. I can't use PEX or a SharkBite in this location because of the limited spacing to work. Do let me know if my idea of putting a brass piece between the copper and galvanized steel is not the solution I think it is. On my way to Home Depot! Thank you!
🤘🤘🤘🍺🍺🍺
I just love the look and reliability of sweated copper.
Thank you so much for this detailed video on how to transition from one pipe to another. Because you you demonstrated different scenarios that could happen, I was able to use a dresser coupler to fix my galvanized pipe.
🙏🙏🙏
Same. I really, really don't want to leave a Fernco in place.
Drain next keep these vids coming man much respect you and roger wak field in Texas and and Steve lav in Boston best RUclips plumbing vids I learn a lot !
Thank you so much, no intent on stopping :)))))))))))
I don’t work with galvanized much but I got into a project the other day with it. I was about to connect old galvanized to a copper fitting but my brain knew something wasn’t right. Thanks for your video for reminding me to get some brass in between!
;)
I hope that you check back. There was a time when I hired out plumbing repair because I wasn't working from home. I'm now noticing that, in more than one instance, people I hired didn't transition properly. Years later, I am now embarking on ripping out my entire supply infrastructure because it is almost fully blocked & there are sections which look like they could burst at any time. Please get the word out to use transitions & to check for grounding, too.
I have a need to transition from an existing 2"copper to ABS as part of a church kitchen renovation in a building 60 years old - this is for drains as well as vent lines. Look forward to your drain line video. This is in Ontario, Canada.
Yes, I will start working on it. In the meantime, do you need any help getting it done?
Use a no hub band. They make adaptors that go from 2" copper drain size to CI/ABS/PVC. Use a Fernco or Sheer Band if underground
If you use a compression slip joint transition be sure its accessible if it's going to be closed off, solder a copper to abs adapter or a mechanical joint like fernco
Usually a good time to add or replace a shut off valve too.
Yes, good idea.
Dude you're the best,
been trying to figure out how to transition from Galvanized to pex you're the first and only one i found ...dresser coupling. THANKS.
Most welcome!
Honestly the most informative video on pipping and very well done. Thank you
Oh Wow! So much info in such short video, and covered all transitions that I was wondering about. It's a 'must see' for anyone with an older house.
💪💪💪😇😇😇
Just subscribed to ur channel. Thank you for clear instructions without telling a whole story of your life. Please keep up the good work!
Thank you so much!!!!
The gratitude goes both ways. You are helping DIY like myself. Check out, ChrisFix, he does make videos just like you, conscise and informative. Hope you make 1 mil followers soon. I will be watching your videos.
@@wongwang7666 yes, ChrisFix is awesomeeee!!!
I just started using pex b a couple days ago and the squishing of the rings is an awesome tip can't wait to try it!
Have fun!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I learned the hard way on the brittleness of old CPVC on a reno project many years ago. I wish this video was available and on my recommended back then.
This project would have been a lot less difficult.
Thanks for sharing ;)
Thanks!
You are most welcome, thanks for the Super Thanks!!!
I just cant fall in love with shark bite fittings. I could use one for repair and then remove and upgrade to either plastic or copper. I also have much more affection for Uponor PexA than clamps. I like your videos. I think I have seen every single one.
Thank you so much Roger, I really appreciate that. Yes, some people prefer not using Sharkbite fittings and that's ok, I personally prefer having them outside of a wall, but I know plenty of contractors that installed these inside walls and never had any problems with them, it really depends if they are correctly installed or not I believe.
Thanks, for helping me out. I was trying to figure out what types of connections are on some old pipes and you showed one in the video its the compression fittings you showed to adapt steel tubing. unfortunately this is just a small step in what I have to do lol. but it definitely helps .
🤩🤩🤩
Would love to see the drain video.
Just had to use a fern coupler to connect a 3inch abs pipe to some cast iron 4inch pipe
Ferncos are not allowed below ground. Vermin chew through the neoprene to get to the sound of water. Stainless no hubs are preferred.
Thank you for the very helpful video! I haven’t worked with pex before and this really makes it easier to understand.
You are most welcome, please share if you can, it helps the channel tremendously ✌✌
Had a plumber come to the house and told me you can’t transition from one to the other, everything needed to be replaced.. according to your video.. their are some very dishonest people in the industry. Lost my whole basement due to freezing pipes.. next week I will be replacing all the pipes. Thanks for this video.
Poly pipe only had problems on the hot side and it was just the fittings not the pipe itself, thats why they had a class action law suit against it along with some other types of b-pex, stick with uponor type a-pex (the clear pex) and use the expansion rings made from the same material and get 25% more flow rate compared to crimp style rings... I own a plumbing company for 21 years and was voted best repair plumber in the state of Oklahoma!!!
Very good input, thank you very much Chris!
I don’t doubt that this has been your experience, but the statement about it only being on the hot side and only on the fittings is inaccurate. I’m a plumber myself and have personally been involved on far more whole home repipes due to poly pipe failures than I can begin to count. I’m almost every situation (possibly even 100%) these failures where on the piping, not the fittings. I’ve also seen an equal amount of failures on both hot and cold pipe.
Here in the Philippines we use cpvc blue pipe,and the other one is PP-R ..nice one sir
Thanks for sharing!!
I'm a journey man plumber here in the philippines. ilove to watch your content. Nose bleed haha. Thanks for your very informative content. God bless
Yes. I would like to see one for drain pipes. Thanks for your video's they're great.
Thank you so much, will do!!
Very well done video. Lotta information packed into a quick vid
Glad it was helpful, please share if you don't mind it, have a great day Steve!
6:59 What was used to hold the strap into the wood? Wood screws? I've never seen strap that looks like that, and the one kind I have seen which is pretty universal at building supply stores is very expensive, about $16 per roll plus tax. And you have to have something to cut it with.
excellent info! clear... concise... subscribed!
😎🤜🤛
Great video thank you. Yes I would be interested in a video on drain pipes.
Noted! Thank you very much!!!
Very good.thing is..
If you haven't done
This jobs before,get
Someone to help you,since plumbing its tricky...if can take to the store pics of everything
You need,and buy quality parts when posible...
Brass to steel will still corrode. A dielectric union will work, but you can't bury them or drywall over them. Dielectric nipples, like you find on water heaters are good, for 3/4". But total re-pipe is best in the case of steel pipe. As Colin Powell said to Daddy Bush, "You touch it, you own it. "
Another great video, thanks.
Thanks you so much! Yes, any dissimilar metal connected together will eventually corrode, some are less quick at doing so :)
Subscribed! Great resource for DIY homeowners... Thank you for you help!
Awesome! Thank you!
True confidence builder -thx
Best transitioning video out here more in depth on how to transition, makes me wonder now if I should add 8' of pex under my kitchen cabinet or just use new galvanized pipe again going all the way from kitchen cabinet the elbow through the wall all way to the water heater outlet of 5' pex? Just don't know if the pex can handle the water heater heat even though I would yet connect the pex into braided stainless steel hose coming out of the water heater?
🤘🤘🤘
Thanks for the info, very basic and clear understanding.
7:25 You could try to remove pipe and replace it with a one thats threaded on both sides.
Good tip if transitioning from CPVC to copper, solder your female adaptor before putting it on the transition fitting. The heat from soldering could compromise the CPVC. So get it soldered, and let it cool before
Absolutely, should have mentioned that, thanks Tanner!
Thanks for the great video on alternative methods for joining various pipe materials. I was wondering if there are any special additional tricks if having to do such a project for 1-1/4" galvanized hydronic heating system piping?
Thanks for any info you might be able to offer.
Yes; I'd like to see a video on working with Iron drainpipes please. Thank you
Workin' on it, thanks 😇
G2L you are such a lifesaver!
Thank you for another awesome video. Have a great weekend. ❤️❤️
You are most welcome, hope it all works out for you!!
Great video as always G2L 👍
Thank you so much @Radio Waves, really appreciate it!!!!!!!!!
Another option if you dont want to solder when converting copper to pex is to use ProPress fittings. They make adapters that go from Copper to Pex. All you need is a manual propress tool, if you don't want to spend the ~$1000 for the power press tool
5:46 I don't understand the parts that are being used to transition between galvanized steel and the pex (the one on the left). It looks like male PVC threads coming out of the steel, with a brass ring around it. Don't know if that's one piece or two. Can you do a video showing that connection being put together, and what it's made up of? Also, there's a crimp ring, but I don't know what's inside the pex, so I don't know what the pex is being crimped around. You say to 'use the same adapters as before' but I don't see that set up anywhere in the video.
Just what I needed. Thank you.
please share if you can, thanks!!!
At 7:32, as you show a pipe threading tool in operation, your camera does not show how the thread is actually cut. For those unfamiliar with a manual pipe threader, the handle, itself, does not have to rotate around the pipe being threaded-- only the cutter head. Using a ratchet mechanism, the threader cutter head moves when the handle is pulled from right to left (facing the work), then the handle is ratcheted back to its starting position on the right.
👍👍👍
I enjoyed this video , makes me wanna go plumb-crazy!!
This video is outstanding. Thank you so much for helping us simple minds.
Any time! ;)
Connecting galvanized to Cpvc. Can I use a Cpvc fiiting with Cpvc male and Cpvc sweat adaptor ? Or using Cpvc fitting with female cpvc and sweat cpvc directly to galvanized thread end without using a Union fitting ?
Hello thank you for awesome advice. My question is can I buried galvanized pipe for water line? Thank you
Yes 👌
Drain pipe video would be awesome!
What are your thoughts on using a schedule 80 nipple, cut that short, then use a schedule 80 coupling to go from Galvanized to PVC?
Very good examples, good job, thanks
Glad you liked it!
I went into a house to install a softener and I wasn’t fully awake and when I went to cut the lines I realized it was all galvanized. Luckily the guy just said rip it all out. That was a long day
Ouchhhhh 😬😬😬
Thanks for your videos they are very informative and helpful 🙏
My pleasure!
Doing a replacement using galvanized unions .. hope I didn't tighten too much ..forgot that rubber seal can be overtightened darn
Very helpful, you are doing a great job , keep it up
😇😇😇
How would you splice into a real old leaking ½” galvanized pipe (no threads) to PEX after cutting out a 3’ section? Great video. Thanks
You'd need to make some threads and use a female to PEX adapter.
@@Got2Learn No room to seperate to make threads
@@dougharlow6037 You need to get a welder to weld on 2 couplings and then use male adapters in those ;)
Awesome video thanks I was told there's no way to recover from a broken galvanized pipe
🤘🤘🤘
The polybutylene was perfect for mobile home manufacturers. If the "roof" leaks didn't destoy the particle board flooring, the plumbing would. Most travel trailers and mobile homes are designed to self destruct.
👍👍👍
Thank you so much for the video it helped me a lot!
very good info dude lots of help i appreciate it
👌👌👌
Please do a video explaining type of plumbing threads .....
Very good idea!!
Yes! Drain pipe transitions video next!
You got it!
They make a pex adapter that has a cpvc glue joint on one side, and a pex crimp on the other.
one more method on copper pipe you can use brass compression fittings that can give you a male or female thread on the other end. 5/8 for 1/2 pipe and 7/8 for 3/4 pipe. i have even used a flaring tool and used flare fittings as well on copper. they give you a male or female thread. then use adapters to whatever you want. don't use the compression ends on pex or other plastic pipe.
Yes, however, those aren't code in walls! thanks Ron!
I just came across a SharkBite coupler with a threaded female end. It looks like it's designed for use with theaded steel pipe. I'm wondering if that is suitable for use with galvanized to Copper transitions?
brass to galvanized is a LOT more resistant than copper to galvanized, so yes these can be used to do just that!
The corrosion between copper and galvanized steel pipe is called electrolysis. Even with a short copper fittings like a coupling electrolysis will still occur for up to about 1 inch or 1 and 1/4 inch pipe you can use 6 inch brass nipples to prevent this afterwards going to a larger diameter size pipe you have to go to 8 inches in length and so on and so on. Or you can simply use dielectric unions which has in it a plastic collar and a rubber washer separating the two types of metals but even with this Union I have seen electrolysis occur for instance this morning I prefer nipples but unions are much more convenient and useful when separating the water lines for repairs or service for instance or when you have a water line you have to connect to and you can't completely stop the water flow
Keep up the great work! Greetings from Ottawa!
Thanks! Will do!
Can you please do a video of a floor drain with Trap? That goes from Cast Iron to Schedule 40 PVC?
If you do this, show it for a second story laundry with washing machine pan as well as a second story floor drain; and maybe also for a basement floor drain (breaking up concrete is hard to do - song lyrics in there when you take out concrete).
Shouldn’t a dielectric fitting be used when going from the water heater to copper pipe?
Yes, a brass fitting or dielectric union.
Yes please, would love to learn more.
Hey dude!
I do not understand why there is not any corrosion between the steel pipe and the Cu pipe when you use a brass nipple (plz see at 6:00).
I do think there is a full conductivity of the current ( electron) between the Steel and the copper pipe. So the steel gets oxydized by the powerful Cu ! ;)
Thank you about your explanation
The second page of this guide explains it very well why a "break" or "insulator" is needed to prevent galvanic corrosion from two dissimilar metals, check it out: www.copper.org/applications/plumbing/techcorner/pdf/galvanic_corrosion.pdf
@@Got2Learn I am ok with your paper.
Anyway, I suggest you to take an ohmeter to test the electrical conduction between the steel pipe and the Cu pipe putting the electrodes on them. So, you should measure something near of zero ohm because I see something looking like a full piece of brass on the video.
It s not really a di electric adapter ( you should measure an infinite resistivity). You have ever use it in another video. ;)
@@Got2Learn please see this di electric adapter ruclips.net/video/6eqKsYw-2cI/видео.html
Yes, dielectric unions are very good too, but if you do not want a union, a brass fitting is the other way to go, it's still going to corrode, it's just going to take MUCH longer ;)
@@Got2Learn why do you Say 'it takes much longer' ?
Fe gives fe2+ then fe3+ ( rusty )
The Steel disappears in the water due the electro chemistry reaction with the Cu. So you miss the thread of the steel pipe. It s so embarrassing !
"galvanized corrosion" that's a pretty cool term
Galvanic ;)
@@Got2Learn even better :)
Thanks for the great video. Wondering if it is ok to use stainless steel pinch clamps for polyb transition joints? Thanks.
Not sure, but I wouldn't do it.
A similar video on drain pipes would be very appreciated. Good work.
Yes sir!
Very nice video overall. But I'm curious about the polyb to pex connector, I have found other videos where the copper colour ring goes on the poly b side and the black ring on the pex side. That is also consistent with my 1992 plumbing at home. Can you clarify?
So, I'm replacing a brass curbstop valve and it is situated on a 3/4 inch (schedule 80 I think) PVC. It looks like the original pipe is glued into a (MIP fitting?) and then threaded into the valve. I'm wondering if it is necessary for me to do what they did because my replacement pipe is threaded already? Can't I just thread it in with joint compound? (of course I will need to glue the new pipe to the old with a coupling back where I cut it)
My house was built in Texas USA in 1988. I have PB pipe in the ground, transitioning to copper just prior to the feed valve which lives in an access box just outside the house foundation. There is no PB in the house, only copper. I have 3 separate feeds into different wings of the house and one of them has developed a leak at the PB-to-copper transition (compression union). The union is well outside the valve box (about 2 feet). I can cut the PB back, lengthen the copper, and install a new union/coupler. But unless I install a second box, the transition will get backfilled and live underground (as it has for 34 years). I have a couple of PB-to-PB repairs in the ground elsewhere in the yard, where trenchers cut the PB years ago. Those repairs are buried in the ground and seem to be doing just fine. Is it OK and advisable to do the PB-to-copper transition in the ground with a SharkBite coupler? Or should I locate and use a new compression coupler/union for this underground fix? Should I place the transition in a box instead of burying it? I have to do one of these things ; I can't afford to dig up the hundreds of feet of buried PB and have copper all the way to the street.
you're always helpful, thanks
🤗🤗🤗
Galvanized pipe nipple to brass fittings is a good idea? Why do I read elsewhere that will lead to corrosion also
Where did you read that?
With regard to the galvanized pipe, what do you think about using a rubber coupling to join unthreaded galvanized pipe to PVC?
It can be done, but the pipes in the rubber joint must be metal or it's squash the plastic and not seal correctly, so you'd need to use a "threaded to pvc" adaptor for this to work.
Apologies but I'm still confused on what fitting I need for my galvanzied to Pex A connection. My galvanzied pipe is 3/4" and I'm able to unscrew the pipe from the female galvanized piece. Thanks in advance!
What about galvanized pipe to PVC? Would it be the same rules as CPVC?
Same thing.
Thank you for the information!
You bet!
Yes, more videos on drain pipes.
You got it!
Excellent. Thank you very much!
🤘🤘🤘
Another great video.
Thanks 😊
So nice of you, thank you Tuna Fish, really appreciate it buddy!
I read several months ago that slip-on fittings (i. e. Shark Bite) should not be used on piping which will be concealed (i. e. behind a wall). Is this still an issue with Shark Bite?
Personally, I wouldn't but many people do, it all depends on your level of comfort. Did you watch my video on these?: ruclips.net/video/V48FQBbeZhk/видео.html
Excellent video!
Thank you! Cheers!!!
Thank you so much for making this video. I have been wondering how to transition from the galvanized pipe to something else for a few years now. Thank you great video!
You bet! ;)
What is your opinion about connecting galvanized to pex using brass pex adapter ? I am concerned about dissimilar metal connection and corrosion. If you don't suggest such transition - what is the other way to connect old galv pipe to new pex pipe
Copper auto cutters are good for cutting old cpvc without shattering it
Yes, works great!
Your videos are awesome, I’m a plumber too I do so much of this stuff on these videos it’s like second nature lol
😆😆😆🤘🤘🤘
Great and informative video
Thank you very much 👍
So nice of you, thank you very much!
We are without water after the freeze and plumbers have a long waiting list. So we need your help. There is an old galv. steel connector from our well that is 2 inch ext. diameter (1 1/2 inch threaded female interior). What adapter do we need to connect to this that will reduce to a 1 inch pex pipe on the other end?
Yes please do a video on drain transitions, thanks
Will do Steph!
I have a hole in a 6’ run of galvanized 1/2”. It’s connected on both ends. Can I use the threads to the existing galvanized ends with shark bites & replace the 6’ pipe with pex? Which shark bite for 1/2” galvanize repair?
Yes, this is the fitting right here, make sure you keep the stiffener inside if you are using PEX: amzn.to/3uxLlzq
@@Got2Learn
I checked the link that you sent.
I actually needed a male threaded end.
I bought several of the male & female type.
I think the female will be needed at some point.
I’m going into the elbow. The pipe with the hole has thread on both ends. I’m just waiting on Amazon, delivering on different days??
Bought crimper, rings, ring remover pliers, pex pipes etc.
Figured I’d better buy what I might need if the project grows on me!
Thank you for responding.
Great videos.
@@martindelgado1484 awesome! Sorry, I didn't know you were going into an elbow, you did the right thing, hope your fix goes well 🙏
@@Got2Learn
Most videos don’t recommend transition with different metals?? Corrosion sets in & compromises the connection.
How long would this connection last?....galvanized to brass. My goal is to install a Manabloc pex pipes & do away with galvanized all together.
Will it last at least 6 months to1 year?
Yes, electrolysis will be a problem no matter what but by installing brass and not copper, you are mitigating the problem. If you want to be extra safe, you can add a 6" brass nipple + female Sharkbite on both ends, that will prolong the time before it starts, but the best thing is to get rid of the steel for it not to happen ;)
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