These are my favorite ones of videos, where Eric tackles something he’s never seen before, and we get to hear his thought process as to how he goes about finding the problem (without looking at any instructions….lol)
I was in auto shops for years before the imports took over so didn't have much exposure to non US vehicles. A very good friend who owned a motorsports shop had had to fire his service manager for theft. He was in a bind, I was taking a break from that career, and he asked me to help him out until he could find a new one. It was a Honda/Suzuki shop and I got my eyes opened about Japanese engineering. Yes, they made a few mistakes but 99% of the parts were simple, clever, reliable, and machined like jewelry. It was a pleasure to work there and see great engineering every time I ran across a model I'd never seen the guts of.
Finally eric o gets into my world..those are rock solid 4 wheelers..alot of ppl will wire the fan to a toggle due too it being oil cooled it has to get almost melting hot before the fan will kick on. It could have a bad oil temp sensor but highly unlikely. Go up 2 sizes on your pilot jet and it will run so much better. They leave the factory on the lean side.
@garrettarney2903 it gets super cold alot of places.. everything being stock 2 should do it then final adjustment with the air mixture screw. I'm just goin off my personal experience.
@pbysome one simple reason...to hush up EPA. our Yamaha an Honda rep told us in the mid 80s they started biting at their heels to do something. Honda killed two strokes off first chance they could with 2007 being their last year of mass produced 2 cycle mx bikes. Yamaha is the only Japanese mfr to still produce 2 cycle motorcycles over 112cc. Kawasaki has the kx 85 and the 112. Suzuki has the rm85 which has been basically unchanged for the past 10 or more years.
When you mentioned holding the shift lever to keep the clutch disengaged, it made me smile. About fifty years ago we had a Honda 50cc thing that we used to run around the local fields here in the UK. Holding the shift lever up and revving the bejesus out of the thing, we managed to get small 'wheelies' out of it. The bike had belonged to one of my friends dad, who had discarded it when he got enough money to buy a car. It was pretty knackered when we got hold of it, but survived much teen-age misuse at our hands - a testament to the toughness of Honda engineering of the time!
Same, with a 50cc Honda that I bought from a school auction for $15. Ended up breaking the crankshaft. Stupid. Would have been worth something today. Yes, I did about 45 years ago.
AKA: Should never do that! E.O. is NOT just a 'car tech'! Next I want a series on I/O boat engine work. Zee interwebs is a barren wasteland in that area. Preferably early 21st century Volvo-Penta! Bueller?
I have a Kodiak 400 with the exact same symptoms. It shifts perfectly now, thanks to you. I hope you keep filming the repairs and adjustments, as I am very new to the atv world.
I've been doin' crotch rockets, dwarf car motors, and metric stuff for years and I gotta say, when it comes to 4 wheelers Yamaha's are bulletproof. I bought a "Moto 4" from my brother for my kids to ride back in the late 80's. It was well ridden when I got it but it still ran well. My kids pounded the snot out of that thing and I doubt they rarely, if ever, serviced the thing......just kept goin'. Later on I got a deal on a used early 90's 2x4 Timberwolf 250 and picked it up.....serviced regularly and still runs like a champ. When my younger boy recently went to buy a new machine he knew from past experience with the old Moto 4 what to buy.......Yamaha......a no brainer.
Currently have 2 Yamaha's - A 94 Warrior that my dad rides and an 04 Wolverine that I ride. For the most part, they've been routine maintenance, and anything that did need replaced (front U-joints and wheel bearings for example) were pretty simple to tackle. Drain the gas out of them at the end of the season and they've always fired right up every spring!
I am still laughing! My freakin belly is sore from laughing about that “how many times can we do that before we move the pan”? Oh my god that’s me. God I love ya Eric
Just popping in for engagement and to tell the young bucks that getting hold of a decent set of offset box end wrenches will make your life a whole bunch easier.
WOW, a Big Bear. Good chance my hands were on that at the factory in Newnan, Ga. You are right That dot in the shifter shaft is what we used to install the shifter.
Love the banter between you and Mrs. O, always something.😂 I'm guessing the clutch pack was sticking (as suggested by a couple others as well) it's fairly common on rigs that sit for a while. Most likely someone just overtightened the adjustment screw not knowing it's only a contact point. Looks like you got yourself a good machine.🤙
Really enjoyed this one! Been wrenching my bikes since I was a kid. Still really enjoy it (not a kid anymore). Disclaimer: NOT a mechanic! Couple of things... wondering if the lever on the left handlebar controls is a hot start... A lot if my sons smaller dirt bikes were also really cold blooded. Had to leave the choke on for longer than seemed reasonable but once they warmed up - no issues. Trying to figure out why the clutch pack was so hard to move. I would want to pull the basket and give it a once over. I've had two bikes ( one street and one dirt) that the clutch hated synthetic oil. Even rated for wet clutches. Went back to conventional oil and voilà! Clutch issue solved. Also, sometimes the clutch baskets get wear from the tabs of the discs in the clutch pack that can interfere with the movement of the pack. My $.02 Looking forward to more on this!
Can believe I was unsubscribe from this channel. What did Mr O do say something true?? RUclips’s don’t like true statements. Bravo sir. Mrs O is a one in a million for sure. Country tough no doubt. Mom and paps are proud for sure.
Eric - I absolute love this video! What I love best is how you track down the cause of the problem and how you perform a failure analysis. Your verbal process makes all the difference.
I have the exact 4wheeler. Its been rock solid.Other then normal battery and starter issues. (Because I buy the cheap ones) It has been very reliable. You get what you pay for. I paid 800 in 2013.
Wasn’t going to watch this, but glad I did … I learned your technique of drawing a template on cardboard and putting the bolts in their proper place … thanks!
For someone who doesn’t work on ATV’s you really nailed it. I’d bet someone misasjusted it so it bound up upon attempting to shift and bent the ball retainer. Hondas, if you ever run into one, are kind of different. Lock nut and slotted shaft are an adjusting plate that acts on a cam plate- so you break the lock nut free and back the screw off clockwise, turn it counterclockwise until you feel resistance, then back off 1/4 turn clockwise and lock the nut.
you have the adjustment backwards. its counterclockwise at first while holding the lock nut, all the way counterclockwise, then clockwise about 1/4 turn ( alot depends on how much the clutch disk are worn ? ), then tighten down the lock nut. been working on honda atvs, atc's for over 30 yrs, i know them very well. also, the side case on most honda's are stamped increase, decrease, you will notice decrease is counterclockwise :-).
@@alanshaw4655 interesting. Looking at the factory manual for a 500fm it says loosen the lock nut, turn the screw one turn clockwise, slowly turn it counterclockwise, then 1/4 clockwise. Seems backwards but seems to work.
I worked on a Honda 4x4 several years ago. I didn't know how. I bought a manual and I had to buy a special tool to press a part off to replace the timing component. I got it repaired.
@@JeffinTD manuals are sometimes misleading !. i was taught by a honda mechanic that worked at my local honda dealership for 40 yrs. i know for 100% fact, loosen lock nut, turn center bolt while holding lock nut counterclockwise until it starts to get tight, then turn center screw clockwise about 1/4 turn while still holding lock nut, then tighten down lock nut.
I would say that the "I know what I got" knuckle dragger cranked in on the adjuster, bending that bearing retainer thingy causing the issue which made them sell it....good deal for you though.
Just out of adjustment. It doesn't take much to make it not work as intended. Seems fair to replace all of the brake fluid, oil, filters, etc. for its age and likely t have been sitting a while prior to going up for sale. Those 4x4 ATV's are a real convenience in outdoor activities.
Should be a good series. Love Yami's, had a Bruin 350 and a Kodiak 400 both pretty much bullet proof. Had to do very little maintenance except oil changes. Went with Full Synthetic 5w40 Rotella T6 which is wet clutch compatible and good for colder climates and K&N filters with the nut on top for easy changes and increased protection.👍
Long time follower of your main channel! I have a few of these bigbear 400s I can try to give you a few tips! If you have to touch those oil cooler lines at that oil cooler, the cooler itself is gonna break lol a new one is $400+ insane so few of mine have transmission coolers rigged up from them breaking. Another tip for the brakes, pretty much every single aftermarket replacement caliper ive seen has a square cut seal on the piston. Ends up making the piston return too far for such small brakes. Most factory seals are different, hard to explain but kind of ringed? Piston side kinda will look like 2 O rings stacked. Its one seal but just has that look to it. Basically no amount of bleeding or replacing the master fixes that incorrect seal problem in my experience but ive seen crazier stuff to so hopefully youll have better luck! Got tons of other tips but this is getting long winded so ill sprinkle them throughout more big bear videos lol
Appreciate it thanks. I did pinch off the hose by the master cylinder and then the handle was rock hard. I'll investigate it further, but as you say, if it's all bled out I'll take a look to see how far the piston retracts on the calipers.
I still have my 2001 Yamaha Wolverine 350 and it still runs great. It is setup almost identical to that Big Bear. Other than maintenance the only necessary repair was a replacement stator about 4 years ago, which this video would have been really helpful for. Looking forward to more videos on this machine. Thanks Mr. O!
I've got a 2004 Wolverine, and its been great as well! Had to do some rear end bearing work and front U-Joints a few years ago, but I ride it pretty frequently in the summers and for the most part, its just been routine maintenance to keep her running!
I am constantly blown away at how Eric looks at a nut/bolt/whatever and grabs the right size socket (maybe not 100%, but DEFINITELY in the high 90's). Love the videos! This looks like it's gonna be a fun ride (see what I did there?).
I can usually do the same, a good guide is that metric bolts usually have heads 1.6 times the thread, there are exceptions with japanese vehicles though.
@32:15 when Eric O fired it up, like a 10 year old he made that quick head jerk to the office door to see if mom was going to pop out and yell at him not to leave the yard. good video like his after hours stuff.
Don't buy an aftermarket carb for your big bear, never be perfect. That oem carb is restorable. I am an aircraft mechanic and for cleaning brass jets Hoppes #9 is what we use. Bendix says soak for 4 hours but when I am bringing back a carb off an old Honda built back in the 60s/70s I soak the brass jets for 18-24 hours then a little blast with the blow gun and done. Seriously....you won't Believe your Eyes what that does. You can see all the numbers, and even the machining marks on the jets after. Good stuff.
Great to see another Video On this Channel Eric Not farm equipment this time ehhh Fun some Recreational Toy Videos Havent seen one of these big bear quads In ages entertaining Video as Always @Eric O - After Hours
Great change of pace! Not that I'm complaining about the 'normal' topics, mind you. Can't wait for the rest of the videos on this beast! 👍 Oh, Mrs. O's wit is priceless. 😊
Thanks for this video, I was working on a 400 (or so) Honda that seemed to have the exact problem; however, I'm still wondering what caused the bending of components in the first place. I would think it would have to be that the clutch rod was so hard to move that it caused bending in the shifting components. (But what do I know). Eric diagnosed this much better than what I did on that Honda, that is for sure (I guess that is why he can make a living as a mechanic, and I don't seem to be able to do the same). I would have taken the clutch basket apart on the other side - probably, without realizing that it just needed the shifting components straightened, and the correct adjustment done on the shifting fork.
I have a 2001 I need to tear into this winter with the same issue. I havent seen a good diagram or video on this fix even though I know its a common issue on these. So your timing was impeccable. Looking forward to more videos on the big bear!!!.
Love it! Me and you have kind of the same way in minf about learning mechanics in life. if I truly don't know something ill tell people I don't but ill check it out. I stumbled on your video because.. well I bought a bear this past sat and at this point with what mechanical knowledge I have I've got it completely figured out now. keep these videos coming brother because I'm now a subscriber!
Yea, hehehe, the clutch pack got stuck and they cranked the adjuster and hammered the shifter screwing it royally. Got lucky with that one and didn't have to replace parts. But it's a good indication the clutch pack is probably near the end of it's life. Good chance someone put regular motor oil in and almost screwed the clutches. Wet clutches need proper oil. If You see a black mark around the read hub to axel, tighten the axel nut. The hub is softer than the axel and it will spin out. Those were built like the early 90's Honda 300's which were excellent machines. It's funny, now-a-days people want the big powerful heavy machines, but in the real world they can't pull much more than the old Honda 300's. Tires are only so big and the riding surface allows only so much traction.
Gravy! It is waaay more fun wrenching on your own stuff and working it out at your own pace than doing it on somebody else's crap. In my experience, bikes and quads are much better engineered than cars and easier to fix. Looking forward to more videos on "The Bear". 😊
Exactly the same as the Slick Shift in my British 1959 650cc Triumph Thunderbird. Great fun at the lights, biker next to you, wants a race, sees you are not ready with the clutch (because the gear lever does the job with the clutch), then foot off the gear lever and you beat the biker as he has to use the clutch on the handlebar. Result!
I had a somewhat similar setup on my 1976 Kawasaki KD 175 motorcycle. It had a standard hand-operated clutch but the same ramp-type system that pushed in a pin to engage/disengage the clutch. The movement of the pin was seemingly microscopic to disengage the clutch, and if it was out of adjustment caused headaches...
Pretty cool yo see you on here now I’ve used your videos countless times to help me diagnose a car when I was out of ideas I appreciate your time and support and videos 👍🏻👍🏻😃👍🏻🇺🇸👍🏻
Thanks for this! I have a Honda Foreman that I've found has way too much engine breaking to be able to shift smoothly. But maybe the real issue is the secondary clutch not releasing properly. Or maybe I'm not shifting properly.
Have a 2003 big bear since new with winch and plow. Always was cold blooded until I replaced the carb. Mostly used for plowing in winter. Has 650 miles. Dependable.
Had a Honda ATC200M 3 wheeler back in the day. Ran perfect, but spark plugs didn't last long. Learned to always carry a spare after a long walk home once! 🤣. I do miss my kawasaki KLT200c 3 wheeler though. Full manual clutch. No automatic anything, and had a rear differential that could be unlocked when extra traction was not needed.
I have a 1989 Yamaha Pro hauler up at my cabin in Alaska. Kinda came with the place. Most people up there would have "sunk it" cuz it's so old. Thing works great. On my 1989 the auto chain tensioner was weak so I got a non auto chain tensioner. Aftermarket unit, like $20. Now I don't worry about skipping a tooth
I have the same 1989 pro hauler YFU 1W , it has been my go to tool for 25 years. I use it everyday rain or shine, to fetch the mail and moving boats and trailers around the yard. Great machine!
I'm gonna tell ya, if the spark plugs are like the one on my 2007 Kawasaki Mule, I had to go 4 heat ranges hotter to keep it from fouling out the plug every 2-3 months (since new) ! Tried trial and error 1 heat range at a time until I got it where I only had to change plugs every few years instead of a couple of months! I dont know what these companies problems are but they sure were racking up on the plugs until i decided to try raising the heat range, last plug has been in 3 years now!!
The clutch plates on a couple of my old dirt bikes would stick together when they would set through the winter months. They would free up by starting the engine, rolling the bike down a small incline, slip it in gear and pull the clutch in while blipping the throttle a few times. If i would have changed the oil more frequently it was okay.
Great machines that one is clean, if it sat the clutches are probably just stuck pretty common when they sit for a while, I put a few cranks in these had a couple cdi issues and the intake flange for the carb on these years sometimes like to crack and leak air, otherwise with clean oil - air filter & checking the valve lash once a year they run great.
I've never worked on these.. but the only thing that makes sense is to screw it in until you feel it touch the rod and then maybe back it off a bit so that it has a little clearance to make sure that the clutch isn't being disengaged at all when the shifter isn't applied. This is how I would adjust the hand clutch on a manual bike; always leave a little bit of slack in the cable. .. It can't be too much different; it's just applying the force with your shifter rather than a clutch lever... I bet the clutch basket was stuck and you broke it loose with your pry bar; so now I bet it would work just fine again.
for the most part, you are correct. only difference between a manual clutch and semi-auto clutch is the cable is for manual clutch, and semi-auto is when you shift with your foot.
This should be fun series of videos! I’m no engineer, but it appears to me that that 3 ball gizmo thingy (official term) is not up to the kind of pry bar force you had to apply to the clutch rod. At least not in a repeatable and reliable way. She’s bending a little with every shift. Hunch we’re going to see the workings on the other end of that rod in a future video. Keep em coming!
The thin plate is just there to hold the balls in place, it doesn't provide any force against the release rod. My guess is that someone adjusted it all the way in (as Eric did before looking up the correct adjustment method) and damaged it by forcing it to shift in that position, following which they backed it all the way out.
A growth opportunity for SMA. Add a bay in the shop for the Avoca one percenters - ATVs, Snowmobiles, Harleys, Vincents, whatever folks ride. Probably have to do a lot of work on credit, but you do that anyway.
What I think happened is the same thing that used to happen to Trail 90's that were ridden hard - somebody did the Yogi Bear stomp on the shifter and bent that little doohickey.
These are my favorite ones of videos, where Eric tackles something he’s never seen before, and we get to hear his thought process as to how he goes about finding the problem (without looking at any instructions….lol)
No man should look instructions before really messing something up. Else your Man Card could be taken away.
I was in auto shops for years before the imports took over so didn't have much exposure to non US vehicles. A very good friend who owned a motorsports shop had had to fire his service manager for theft. He was in a bind, I was taking a break from that career, and he asked me to help him out until he could find a new one. It was a Honda/Suzuki shop and I got my eyes opened about Japanese engineering. Yes, they made a few mistakes but 99% of the parts were simple, clever, reliable, and machined like jewelry. It was a pleasure to work there and see great engineering every time I ran across a model I'd never seen the guts of.
Finally eric o gets into my world..those are rock solid 4 wheelers..alot of ppl will wire the fan to a toggle due too it being oil cooled it has to get almost melting hot before the fan will kick on. It could have a bad oil temp sensor but highly unlikely. Go up 2 sizes on your pilot jet and it will run so much better. They leave the factory on the lean side.
lol they all leave the factory lean being that he’s in New York super cold winters maybe go up 3 sizes
@garrettarney2903 it gets super cold alot of places.. everything being stock 2 should do it then final adjustment with the air mixture screw. I'm just goin off my personal experience.
@@garrettarney2903I had to go two sizes up on the pilot for my 2002 big bear in the Hudson valley of new york
Cold not really a factor more like elevation.
Unusual to come out of the 30:07 factory lean, any idea why?
@pbysome one simple reason...to hush up EPA. our Yamaha an Honda rep told us in the mid 80s they started biting at their heels to do something. Honda killed two strokes off first chance they could with 2007 being their last year of mass produced 2 cycle mx bikes. Yamaha is the only Japanese mfr to still produce 2 cycle motorcycles over 112cc. Kawasaki has the kx 85 and the 112. Suzuki has the rm85 which has been basically unchanged for the past 10 or more years.
When you mentioned holding the shift lever to keep the clutch disengaged, it made me smile.
About fifty years ago we had a Honda 50cc thing that we used to run around the local fields here in the UK.
Holding the shift lever up and revving the bejesus out of the thing, we managed to get small 'wheelies' out of it.
The bike had belonged to one of my friends dad, who had discarded it when he got enough money to buy a car.
It was pretty knackered when we got hold of it, but survived much teen-age misuse at our hands - a testament to the toughness of Honda engineering of the time!
Same, with a 50cc Honda that I bought from a school auction for $15.
Ended up breaking the crankshaft.
Stupid.
Would have been worth something today.
Yes, I did about 45 years ago.
I had a huge poster of a Honda 50 on my bedroom wall when I was a kid - around 1963 or so.
As a 20yr former power sports tech, it was fun to watch you just dive right in. I met many car techs that would never do that.
AKA: Should never do that! E.O. is NOT just a 'car tech'!
Next I want a series on I/O boat engine work. Zee interwebs is a barren wasteland in that area. Preferably early 21st century Volvo-Penta! Bueller?
Mrs' O is the master of the shaft information. Glad you have yourself an expert sir.
Oooh Vanessa, talk dirty to me!
Clymer makes some of the best powersports manuals I've ever used. I have one for each bike in my garage. Money WELL spent.
I have a Kodiak 400 with the exact same symptoms. It shifts perfectly now, thanks to you. I hope you keep filming the repairs and adjustments, as I am very new to the atv world.
Nice! FB marketplace just lit up with potential buyers!
I've been doin' crotch rockets, dwarf car motors, and metric stuff for years and I gotta say, when it comes to 4 wheelers Yamaha's are bulletproof. I bought a "Moto 4" from my brother for my kids to ride back in the late 80's. It was well ridden when I got it but it still ran well. My kids pounded the snot out of that thing and I doubt they rarely, if ever, serviced the thing......just kept goin'. Later on I got a deal on a used early 90's 2x4 Timberwolf 250 and picked it up.....serviced regularly and still runs like a champ. When my younger boy recently went to buy a new machine he knew from past experience with the old Moto 4 what to buy.......Yamaha......a no brainer.
Currently have 2 Yamaha's - A 94 Warrior that my dad rides and an 04 Wolverine that I ride. For the most part, they've been routine maintenance, and anything that did need replaced (front U-joints and wheel bearings for example) were pretty simple to tackle. Drain the gas out of them at the end of the season and they've always fired right up every spring!
I am still laughing! My freakin belly is sore from laughing about that “how many times can we do that before we move the pan”? Oh my god that’s me. God I love ya Eric
The best part of the "how many times" is the gap in the video right AFTER he said three...
Mrs. O cracks me up with her double entendre. She's a keeper Mr. O.
Just popping in for engagement and to tell the young bucks that getting hold of a decent set of offset box end wrenches will make your life a whole bunch easier.
Those things are bulletproof and fairly simple to work on. Nice acquisition!
I'm just glad you didn't decapitate yourself on your garage door when you were backing out. It was closer than you thought.
11:48 didn’t panic. Assessed the situation. Didn’t force it. Good mechanic.
Nice buck & great shot Vanessa. Video was great & better than some of the TV videos. Keep them coming.
Eric fixed the guy's neutral dropper.
I enjoyed and got a chuckle out of Mrs O's enthusiasm. Like why waste her time, she knew you were going to fix it.
WOW, a Big Bear. Good chance my hands were on that at the factory in Newnan, Ga.
You are right That dot in the shifter shaft is what we used to install the shifter.
Love the banter between you and Mrs. O, always something.😂
I'm guessing the clutch pack was sticking (as suggested by a couple others as well) it's fairly common on rigs that sit for a while. Most likely someone just overtightened the adjustment screw not knowing it's only a contact point.
Looks like you got yourself a good machine.🤙
Right!! Mrs O is a master of the comebacks. She had good teachers. She is no push over that for sure. Country girl 100%.
@@nonyabiz2777
She's not the Boss for nuthin.👌
Really enjoyed this one! Been wrenching my bikes since I was a kid. Still really enjoy it (not a kid anymore).
Disclaimer: NOT a mechanic!
Couple of things... wondering if the lever on the left handlebar controls is a hot start...
A lot if my sons smaller dirt bikes were also really cold blooded. Had to leave the choke on for longer than seemed reasonable but once they warmed up - no issues.
Trying to figure out why the clutch pack was so hard to move. I would want to pull the basket and give it a once over. I've had two bikes ( one street and one dirt) that the clutch hated synthetic oil. Even rated for wet clutches. Went back to conventional oil and voilà! Clutch issue solved.
Also, sometimes the clutch baskets get wear from the tabs of the discs in the clutch pack that can interfere with the movement of the pack.
My $.02
Looking forward to more on this!
Sitting on rainy Sunday, and we get a special look at what Eric O. does with his free time? Great video and thanks for the look at a new toy!
Can believe I was unsubscribe from this channel. What did Mr O do say something true?? RUclips’s don’t like true statements. Bravo sir. Mrs O is a one in a million for sure. Country tough no doubt. Mom and paps are proud for sure.
Just bought a 2000 Big Bear....this video just saved me a ton of grief...thanks
Glad it helped
Eric - I absolute love this video! What I love best is how you track down the cause of the problem and how you perform a failure analysis. Your verbal process makes all the difference.
I love your main channel and all the knowledge you provide to us, but these type of videos are my favorite.
I have the exact 4wheeler. Its been rock solid.Other then normal battery and starter issues. (Because I buy the cheap ones)
It has been very reliable.
You get what you pay for. I paid 800 in 2013.
Thanks Eric for After Hours. Appreciate the extra knowledge.
Thank you for doing this, my stator is starting to go out and I didn’t know how to get the primary off right.
Wasn’t going to watch this, but glad I did … I learned your technique of drawing a template on cardboard and putting the bolts in their proper place … thanks!
There's usually a small ball bearing at the other end of that clutch push rod, have a wee look and see if it's still there buddy
For someone who doesn’t work on ATV’s you really nailed it. I’d bet someone misasjusted it so it bound up upon attempting to shift and bent the ball retainer. Hondas, if you ever run into one, are kind of different. Lock nut and slotted shaft are an adjusting plate that acts on a cam plate- so you break the lock nut free and back the screw off clockwise, turn it counterclockwise until you feel resistance, then back off 1/4 turn clockwise and lock the nut.
you have the adjustment backwards. its counterclockwise at first while holding the lock nut, all the way counterclockwise, then clockwise about 1/4 turn ( alot depends on how much the clutch disk are worn ? ), then tighten down the lock nut. been working on honda atvs, atc's for over 30 yrs, i know them very well. also, the side case on most honda's are stamped increase, decrease, you will notice decrease is counterclockwise :-).
@@alanshaw4655 interesting. Looking at the factory manual for a 500fm it says loosen the lock nut, turn the screw one turn clockwise, slowly turn it counterclockwise, then 1/4 clockwise. Seems backwards but seems to work.
I worked on a Honda 4x4 several years ago. I didn't know how. I bought a manual and I had to buy a special tool to press a part off to replace the timing component. I got it repaired.
@@JeffinTD manuals are sometimes misleading !. i was taught by a honda mechanic that worked at my local honda dealership for 40 yrs. i know for 100% fact, loosen lock nut, turn center bolt while holding lock nut counterclockwise until it starts to get tight, then turn center screw clockwise about 1/4 turn while still holding lock nut, then tighten down lock nut.
I would say that the "I know what I got" knuckle dragger cranked in on the adjuster, bending that bearing retainer thingy causing the issue which made them sell it....good deal for you though.
Eric, your a genius.✝️🇬🇧
Just out of adjustment. It doesn't take much to make it not work as intended. Seems fair to replace all of the brake fluid, oil, filters, etc. for its age and likely t have been sitting a while prior to going up for sale. Those 4x4 ATV's are a real convenience in outdoor activities.
Should be a good series. Love Yami's, had a Bruin 350 and a Kodiak 400 both pretty much bullet proof. Had to do very little maintenance except oil changes. Went with Full Synthetic 5w40 Rotella T6 which is wet clutch compatible and good for colder climates and K&N filters with the nut on top for easy changes and increased protection.👍
You know it's a good day when Eric works on a 4-wheeler
Long time follower of your main channel! I have a few of these bigbear 400s I can try to give you a few tips! If you have to touch those oil cooler lines at that oil cooler, the cooler itself is gonna break lol a new one is $400+ insane so few of mine have transmission coolers rigged up from them breaking. Another tip for the brakes, pretty much every single aftermarket replacement caliper ive seen has a square cut seal on the piston. Ends up making the piston return too far for such small brakes. Most factory seals are different, hard to explain but kind of ringed? Piston side kinda will look like 2 O rings stacked. Its one seal but just has that look to it. Basically no amount of bleeding or replacing the master fixes that incorrect seal problem in my experience but ive seen crazier stuff to so hopefully youll have better luck! Got tons of other tips but this is getting long winded so ill sprinkle them throughout more big bear videos lol
Appreciate it thanks. I did pinch off the hose by the master cylinder and then the handle was rock hard. I'll investigate it further, but as you say, if it's all bled out I'll take a look to see how far the piston retracts on the calipers.
Called X rings
I still have my 2001 Yamaha Wolverine 350 and it still runs great. It is setup almost identical to that Big Bear. Other than maintenance the only necessary repair was a replacement stator about 4 years ago, which this video would have been really helpful for. Looking forward to more videos on this machine. Thanks Mr. O!
I've got a 2004 Wolverine, and its been great as well! Had to do some rear end bearing work and front U-Joints a few years ago, but I ride it pretty frequently in the summers and for the most part, its just been routine maintenance to keep her running!
Great bargain and Mrs O likes it too ! Nice lookin unit should last for ever !!!!
I am constantly blown away at how Eric looks at a nut/bolt/whatever and grabs the right size socket (maybe not 100%, but DEFINITELY in the high 90's). Love the videos! This looks like it's gonna be a fun ride (see what I did there?).
my dad was the same way, I guess it's just experience but always impressed me.
It's called "being experienced mechanic"
“First try” every time 😂
I can usually do the same, a good guide is that metric bolts usually have heads 1.6 times the thread, there are exceptions with japanese vehicles though.
I'm all for the Eric O version of Mustie1! It's cool when creators do things they enjoy vs their regular jobs.
@32:15 when Eric O fired it up, like a 10 year old he made that quick head jerk to the office door to see if mom was going to pop out and yell at him not to leave the yard. good video like his after hours stuff.
Don't buy an aftermarket carb for your big bear, never be perfect. That oem carb is restorable. I am an aircraft mechanic and for cleaning brass jets Hoppes #9 is what we use. Bendix says soak for 4 hours but when I am bringing back a carb off an old Honda built back in the 60s/70s I soak the brass jets for 18-24 hours then a little blast with the blow gun and done. Seriously....you won't Believe your Eyes what that does. You can see all the numbers, and even the machining marks on the jets after. Good stuff.
Great to see another Video On this Channel Eric Not farm equipment this time ehhh Fun some Recreational Toy Videos Havent seen one of these big bear quads In ages entertaining Video as Always @Eric O - After Hours
Great change of pace! Not that I'm complaining about the 'normal' topics, mind you. Can't wait for the rest of the videos on this beast! 👍 Oh, Mrs. O's wit is priceless. 😊
Thanks for this video, I was working on a 400 (or so) Honda that seemed to have the exact problem; however, I'm still wondering what caused the bending of components in the first place. I would think it would have to be that the clutch rod was so hard to move that it caused bending in the shifting components. (But what do I know). Eric diagnosed this much better than what I did on that Honda, that is for sure (I guess that is why he can make a living as a mechanic, and I don't seem to be able to do the same). I would have taken the clutch basket apart on the other side - probably, without realizing that it just needed the shifting components straightened, and the correct adjustment done on the shifting fork.
Past career Powersports tech. This held my attention moreso, and you found the longstanding sticking clutch pack. TY Subscribed!
I have a 2001 I need to tear into this winter with the same issue. I havent seen a good diagram or video on this fix even though I know its a common issue on these. So your timing was impeccable. Looking forward to more videos on the big bear!!!.
Look forward to the next videos on this old Big Bear Quad @Eric O - After Hours
Love it! Me and you have kind of the same way in minf about learning mechanics in life. if I truly don't know something ill tell people I don't but ill check it out. I stumbled on your video because.. well I bought a bear this past sat and at this point with what mechanical knowledge I have I've got it completely figured out now. keep these videos coming brother because I'm now a subscriber!
Yea, hehehe, the clutch pack got stuck and they cranked the adjuster and hammered the shifter screwing it royally. Got lucky with that one and didn't have to replace parts. But it's a good indication the clutch pack is probably near the end of it's life.
Good chance someone put regular motor oil in and almost screwed the clutches. Wet clutches need proper oil.
If You see a black mark around the read hub to axel, tighten the axel nut. The hub is softer than the axel and it will spin out. Those were built like the early 90's Honda 300's which were excellent machines. It's funny, now-a-days people want the big powerful heavy machines, but in the real world they can't pull much more than the old Honda 300's. Tires are only so big and the riding surface allows only so much traction.
Awesome!! Love your diagnostic intelligence. Thank you mister O
This brings back memories! I had a 2000 Kodiak which is the Big Bear's sibling. Looking forward to more videos :)
Congrats Eric, looking forward to more videos on the Big Bear. Got one myself to tow a trailer around the property.
Gravy! It is waaay more fun wrenching on your own stuff and working it out at your own pace than doing it on somebody else's crap.
In my experience, bikes and quads are much better engineered than cars and easier to fix.
Looking forward to more videos on "The Bear". 😊
Dig it. I have a 01 wolverine I've had forever but don't know much about. It just works..
Exactly the same as the Slick Shift in my British 1959 650cc Triumph Thunderbird. Great fun at the lights, biker next to you, wants a race, sees you are not ready with the clutch (because the gear lever does the job with the clutch), then foot off the gear lever and you beat the biker as he has to use the clutch on the handlebar. Result!
I had a somewhat similar setup on my 1976 Kawasaki KD 175 motorcycle. It had a standard hand-operated clutch but the same ramp-type system that pushed in a pin to engage/disengage the clutch. The movement of the pin was seemingly microscopic to disengage the clutch, and if it was out of adjustment caused headaches...
Yup!! I’m in on these videos ❤
It's always nice when there is a problem, to find a little chowder to point you in the right direction.
Pretty cool yo see you on here now I’ve used your videos countless times to help me diagnose a car when I was out of ideas I appreciate your time and support and videos 👍🏻👍🏻😃👍🏻🇺🇸👍🏻
I love the look of this beast, those headlights are perfection
Always nice to see Mrs. O.
I've never owned a 4 wheeler but always wanted one. Can't wait to see the vids on it!
Love these vids Eric!!
In Oklahoma we can tag and use our UTV'S on state hwys and county and city roads.
Sure makes it NICE going hunting
You won't be doing that in the PRNY.
@@jamescostello6529 nope..
It's a damn shame the way those commies operate
The Bearing cam Mechanism reminds me of the Same Mechanism that Engages a Electric Differential Locker for 4x4s Eric O 15:48 @Eric O - After Hours
Looking like a @WatchWesWork video with the drawings. Nice work!
Thanks for this!
I have a Honda Foreman that I've found has way too much engine breaking to be able to shift smoothly. But maybe the real issue is the secondary clutch not releasing properly. Or maybe I'm not shifting properly.
Thank you, looking forward to this series.
Look forward to the new videos, brilliant 👍
Have a 2003 big bear since new with winch and plow. Always was cold blooded until I replaced the carb. Mostly used for plowing in winter. Has 650 miles. Dependable.
Did you put an aftermarket carb on it?
I hope Clymer is better than years ago. Every time you came to anything technical, they said to take the car to a dealer.
Had a Honda ATC200M 3 wheeler back in the day. Ran perfect, but spark plugs didn't last long. Learned to always carry a spare after a long walk home once! 🤣. I do miss my kawasaki KLT200c 3 wheeler though. Full manual clutch. No automatic anything, and had a rear differential that could be unlocked when extra traction was not needed.
I have a 1989 Yamaha Pro hauler up at my cabin in Alaska. Kinda came with the place. Most people up there would have "sunk it" cuz it's so old. Thing works great. On my 1989 the auto chain tensioner was weak so I got a non auto chain tensioner. Aftermarket unit, like $20. Now I don't worry about skipping a tooth
I have the same 1989 pro hauler YFU 1W , it has been my go to tool for 25 years. I use it everyday rain or shine, to fetch the mail and moving boats and trailers around the yard. Great machine!
You gotta love Mrs.O !
Merry Christmas.
I look forward to more videos on this. Thanks.
I just bought a 01 big bear. These videos will be very helpful.
This is great I have the same machine cant wait to start digging in to the maintenance end
Great video. I have the same machine in a 01. Looking forward to more.
I'm gonna tell ya, if the spark plugs are like the one on my 2007 Kawasaki Mule, I had to go 4 heat ranges hotter to keep it from fouling out the plug every 2-3 months (since new) ! Tried trial and error 1 heat range at a time until I got it where I only had to change plugs every few years instead of a couple of months! I dont know what these companies problems are but they sure were racking up on the plugs until i decided to try raising the heat range, last plug has been in 3 years now!!
The 'enrichener' might just be a compression release... my SR500 thumper sure needed one. Great deal... was sure you'd have to open the wet side.
The clutch plates on a couple of my old dirt bikes would stick together when they would set through the winter months. They would free up by starting the engine, rolling the bike down a small incline, slip it in gear and pull the clutch in while blipping the throttle a few times. If i would have changed the oil more frequently it was okay.
I bought a nice Suzuki 500 Fun machine. Fun riding trails. I’m glad ya got one Eric O the kids will have fun. Mine did
Great machines that one is clean, if it sat the clutches are probably just stuck pretty common when they sit for a while, I put a few cranks in these had a couple cdi issues and the intake flange for the carb on these years sometimes like to crack and leak air, otherwise with clean oil - air filter & checking the valve lash once a year they run great.
I'm getting ready to work on my Yamaha Bruin 350. Replacing the drive belt along with new cv axles and wheel bearings in the front
I've never worked on these.. but the only thing that makes sense is to screw it in until you feel it touch the rod and then maybe back it off a bit so that it has a little clearance to make sure that the clutch isn't being disengaged at all when the shifter isn't applied. This is how I would adjust the hand clutch on a manual bike; always leave a little bit of slack in the cable. .. It can't be too much different; it's just applying the force with your shifter rather than a clutch lever... I bet the clutch basket was stuck and you broke it loose with your pry bar; so now I bet it would work just fine again.
Can you get OEM seals to put in the aftermarket calipers?
for the most part, you are correct. only difference between a manual clutch and semi-auto clutch is the cable is for manual clutch, and semi-auto is when you shift with your foot.
Looking forward to these Eric.
Something a little different great job 👍
I have that same machine running great. Have the factory manual got it on Yamaha website.
Good to know!
This should be fun series of videos! I’m no engineer, but it appears to me that that 3 ball gizmo thingy (official term) is not up to the kind of pry bar force you had to apply to the clutch rod. At least not in a repeatable and reliable way. She’s bending a little with every shift. Hunch we’re going to see the workings on the other end of that rod in a future video. Keep em coming!
The thin plate is just there to hold the balls in place, it doesn't provide any force against the release rod. My guess is that someone adjusted it all the way in (as Eric did before looking up the correct adjustment method) and damaged it by forcing it to shift in that position, following which they backed it all the way out.
Very nice Eric
Good video and congratulations on the new toy brother
Cool change up! Love it!
Wonder if it got. Ent Because somebody had it way to tight on the adjustment which caused the damage Eric O 34:00 @Eric O - After Hours
4:47 Nailing it and you are not even wearing your glasses!
A growth opportunity for SMA. Add a bay in the shop for the Avoca one percenters - ATVs, Snowmobiles, Harleys, Vincents, whatever folks ride. Probably have to do a lot of work on credit, but you do that anyway.
What I think happened is the same thing that used to happen to Trail 90's that were ridden hard - somebody did the Yogi Bear stomp on the shifter and bent that little doohickey.