Yes sir. I usually go check out the TT race. So I’ll be there Sunday. But I avoid the crowds of hammer town and usually hang out around Pits by soggy dry lake bed.
🤣🤣 you coming down to help? I just washed her Friday and it rained after almost 10 months of not even a drop. With my luck I wash the engine bay and next trails is the worst mud ever
I'll be honest... lol.. I have a Roush Raptor also and I took one look at the throttle body bolts and then looked at my 2XL/3XL hands and was like "ef that noise!" Called up GAS and let them deal with the plugs. lol ... But I really am enjoying watching people with smaller hands,wrists and forearms struggle a bit. lol
Yeah man. It was a shit job. Those with experience doing it like GAS, will make quick work of it regardless of hand size. HRD did it so quick and for them it’s typically a couple of hours. I think we spend maybe 4-5 hours wrestling with the top of the truck.
Correct me if im wrong fellas but isnt it recommended you use a lil bit of copper cote on the spark plug threads? That might have been why the old plugs were on so tight and rusty looking.
No. On the 6.2 you need a warm engine block for the plugs to come out easier. It took us so long to get the elbow out, that our block was cold by the time we took them out. As for the rusty mess, it was only 2 plugs. So I think the coil packs were not seated correctly
@ aaah Ok that makes sense. Looks like a pain in the ass. Im glad your truck’s performance increased. It’s a great feeling when you work on your ride and you feel the difference.
From lack of knowledge and experience with forced induction why couldn't you just take off the whole supercharger vs fighting the throttle body? As said by others. Stock is so easy. So many complain it's hard but it's not. Also the Ford service manual says to warm up the engine before spark plug removal. I did that and all of them came out easy. Seen if you do not do this they are difficult to remove and can break off.
Removing the supercharger requires disconnecting the belt and removing the throttle body and neck to access all the bolts. So that’s not an option for just plugs. Did not know about warning up the engine. Would not have mattered anyway with how long it took us to remove the neck the first time. And experienced shop would make much quicker work on the neck so definitely would work better for them.
Once you fix the issue, permanent codes erase them self’s, after what we call the 40 cycle. Computer needs to see no issues with that code for up to 40cycles. If the check engine light does not come on, then you are good. Evap codes are related to gas cap, emission fuel vapor hoses. We use a smoke tester to find leaks, only way to locate it.
Yeah. Will need to drive for a bit and hopefully it’s not something related to the gas cap. When the temps changed, we were getting the check the gas cap error. But that went away before we did the plugs. Will need to keep and eye on it to see what’s causing it. May not even be related to the work we did here
Yeah, stock it’s not bad at all. Supercharger, that intake elbow it hours of work. And then Mid Travel, just blocks your access to all the lower ones. Such a nightmare. Good thing for shops like HRD that have experience with it and make it a super easy job.
Great video as always guys. I had my gen 1 16 spark plugs replaced about 8 months ago as I noticed a missifire under load every so often. I now have a random Missfire on cylinder 3 and 5 (P0300, P0303, and P0305). Only when I take the truck offroad and I am in manual over 4k rpm. You reckon this is coil pack related too? Never replaced mine in 5 years, done about 100,000km.
Chances are it is man. I would also take those plugs off to inspect it and confirm. Lots of moisture and jump gets trapped at the top of the engine and cause problems. Also check the lines
I had my plugs done on my 2011 Raptor at 110k but not the coil pack and wires. It runs perfect, should i still do my coil packs?, OEM cost like $600 plus not counting new ignition wires. Im almost at 140K now
I would recommend it because of the age of the truck and keep the old ones as spares. If you go to rock auto, you can get the same motorcraft parts at a fraction of the cost. That’s what we did.
I'm switching out the power steering pump on my 5.4l gen 1 right now with the lee kit and it officially defeated me yesterday. There are like no videos of people installing any PS pump upgrades on the 5.4l or really the 6.2. anyone know where to find a good install video?
It’s because it’s such a difficult job man. I know from working on the 6.2. Took me 2 days to swap out the first one, gave up after 6 hrs on the first day and had to come back to it. Reach out to the experts like HRD, FMI, RPG over social media for help man. They have done quite a few and will have the experience to help
Oh damn. I would not want to work on the lowers with a warm exhaust manifold right next to them. But completely understand why it’s needed. My truck was warm when HRD swapped them and they said they all came out easily.
Been dreading doing this to my Gen 1 also lol but im glad you made a video so i can follow along 😅
Have a shop do it man. It sucked so bad to do it . Let’s the pros that have experience with it do it
I did mine a year ago and it’s definitely a drag! Good idea doing it before it became a real issue.
Yeah. I put it off longer than I should have though. But this truck just runs regardless of the codes. She’s never let me down
@ are you going to make an appearance at KOH? We will be there the 30th to the 2nd.
Yes sir. I usually go check out the TT race. So I’ll be there Sunday. But I avoid the crowds of hammer town and usually hang out around Pits by soggy dry lake bed.
Let’s pressure wash that engine compartment!
🤣🤣 you coming down to help?
I just washed her Friday and it rained after almost 10 months of not even a drop. With my luck I wash the engine bay and next trails is the worst mud ever
@ I’m down to help out! 😁
You sure? 🤣 going to be a dirty job. Going to need more than just spray washing. We going to need to scrub that engine
@ I’ve done it before!
I did mine a year in a half ago and some of those bottom ones were a pain to remove.
Yeah it was awful and no space to work with.
65,000 miles that baby is still new. My 2014 has 198,000 miles. I’ve only done this once. 😅
🤣🤣 I know. But it’s been a hard 65k miles. She’s only ever been used to play offroad.
I'll be honest... lol.. I have a Roush Raptor also and I took one look at the throttle body bolts and then looked at my 2XL/3XL hands and was like "ef that noise!" Called up GAS and let them deal with the plugs. lol ... But I really am enjoying watching people with smaller hands,wrists and forearms struggle a bit. lol
Yeah man. It was a shit job. Those with experience doing it like GAS, will make quick work of it regardless of hand size. HRD did it so quick and for them it’s typically a couple of hours. I think we spend maybe 4-5 hours wrestling with the top of the truck.
Correct me if im wrong fellas but isnt it recommended you use a lil bit of copper cote on the spark plug threads? That might have been why the old plugs were on so tight and rusty looking.
No. On the 6.2 you need a warm engine block for the plugs to come out easier. It took us so long to get the elbow out, that our block was cold by the time we took them out. As for the rusty mess, it was only 2 plugs. So I think the coil packs were not seated correctly
@ aaah Ok that makes sense. Looks like a pain in the ass. Im glad your truck’s performance increased. It’s a great feeling when you work on your ride and you feel the difference.
Totally agree and why working on your own truck can be so rewarding sometimes. But definitely not doing this job again
From lack of knowledge and experience with forced induction why couldn't you just take off the whole supercharger vs fighting the throttle body?
As said by others. Stock is so easy. So many complain it's hard but it's not. Also the Ford service manual says to warm up the engine before spark plug removal. I did that and all of them came out easy. Seen if you do not do this they are difficult to remove and can break off.
Removing the supercharger requires disconnecting the belt and removing the throttle body and neck to access all the bolts. So that’s not an option for just plugs.
Did not know about warning up the engine. Would not have mattered anyway with how long it took us to remove the neck the first time. And experienced shop would make much quicker work on the neck so definitely would work better for them.
Once you fix the issue, permanent codes erase them self’s, after what we call the 40 cycle. Computer needs to see no issues with that code for up to 40cycles. If the check engine light does not come on, then you are good. Evap codes are related to gas cap, emission fuel vapor hoses. We use a smoke tester to find leaks, only way to locate it.
Yeah. Will need to drive for a bit and hopefully it’s not something related to the gas cap. When the temps changed, we were getting the check the gas cap error. But that went away before we did the plugs. Will need to keep and eye on it to see what’s causing it. May not even be related to the work we did here
i feel the gen1 non sc, plugs, cap, and wires where 100% easier. when i did mine i should of took the tires off to make it a bit easier
Yeah, stock it’s not bad at all. Supercharger, that intake elbow it hours of work. And then Mid Travel, just blocks your access to all the lower ones. Such a nightmare. Good thing for shops like HRD that have experience with it and make it a super easy job.
replace the purge valve.
Thanks. I’ll take a look at it.
Great video as always guys.
I had my gen 1 16 spark plugs replaced about 8 months ago as I noticed a missifire under load every so often. I now have a random Missfire on cylinder 3 and 5 (P0300, P0303, and P0305). Only when I take the truck offroad and I am in manual over 4k rpm. You reckon this is coil pack related too? Never replaced mine in 5 years, done about 100,000km.
Chances are it is man. I would also take those plugs off to inspect it and confirm. Lots of moisture and jump gets trapped at the top of the engine and cause problems. Also check the lines
I had my plugs done on my 2011 Raptor at 110k but not the coil pack and wires. It runs perfect, should i still do my coil packs?, OEM cost like $600 plus not counting new ignition wires. Im almost at 140K now
I would recommend it because of the age of the truck and keep the old ones as spares. If you go to rock auto, you can get the same motorcraft parts at a fraction of the cost. That’s what we did.
I'm switching out the power steering pump on my 5.4l gen 1 right now with the lee kit and it officially defeated me yesterday. There are like no videos of people installing any PS pump upgrades on the 5.4l or really the 6.2. anyone know where to find a good install video?
It’s because it’s such a difficult job man. I know from working on the 6.2. Took me 2 days to swap out the first one, gave up after 6 hrs on the first day and had to come back to it.
Reach out to the experts like HRD, FMI, RPG over social media for help man. They have done quite a few and will have the experience to help
I was afraid I was going to snap my plugs when I did my lowers, just run the engine a few minutes to warm it up abs they came right out
Oh damn. I would not want to work on the lowers with a warm exhaust manifold right next to them. But completely understand why it’s needed. My truck was warm when HRD swapped them and they said they all came out easily.
I gave the headers time to cool off, but the block was still warm. I didn’t get it all the way up to temperature
Good to know. But definitely not doing this job again. 🤣
How many miles on this thing? Mine have all been done once and I’m at 200k
We say it in the opening of the video. At filming she just had 64k miles.
You kept beeping out all the repair terms. How am I supose to do this job without knowing the proper terminology!😅
🤣🤣 oh they will come naturally if you ever attempt it
1st!