Great video help alot... Make sure u get a torque wrench... Axle grease... N the tool that compresses the brake piston down if you replace the brake pads... That slowed me down going to auto part store during install... Thanks buds...
Brakes are easy, and vitally important the torque settings are correct, otherwise you can get killed, or something else can get killed. One of the reason I do my own is because then I know how the job was done....and that makes me more comfortable on the road :) glad you liked the vid!
Maybe someone has already commented it, given that this video is close to 6 years old, but I'll add it anyways if it helps someone out: per the factory service manual for the '02 Maxima, the bearing nut should be torqued to a value between 138 and 188 ft-lbs. Or 187-254 Nm. Pretty much what the Haynes Manual says for the older models.
I changed the front wheel bearings and broke the first ABS sensor and bolt. Before I tried to remove the 2nd one, I lubed both with PB Blaster and let it sit for at least 30 minutes. That's versus waitng for about 30 seconds and only on the bolt on the first one. There are raised ridges on the sensor that fit into grooves in the sensor hole. Therefore I gently tapped the 2nd sensor straight out and managed to save and reinstall it. It has no moving parts, so I was happy to reuse it and save $30!
Great vid and much appreciated. That would have been a good time to replace the ABS sensor. Looking at the rust on that car I'm pretty sure you're going to break the (weak/rusted) sensor retaining bracket bolt (good luck fixing that) and have to knock the sensor itself out of it's bore through the outside... which means you'll probably be removing all these parts one more time. I've done 3 ABS sensors on my 2001 Maxima. Only one came out the way it was meant to come out. Way to go Nissan ;) I've done the front bearings also (w/o a press) and that's a real fun job too lol
no grease in bearings, it will not take long for the bearings to get worn out, no axle stands. the lock nut has to be renewed, every time this job is done.
thanks for the tips...#1 it was my understanding these bearings are greased at the factory and if they had needed to be packed there was no notification of such in the box. 2...totally agree with the axle stands....3...didn't know the lock nut was not reusable. seems it needs to be included with the bearing in that case. couldn't find a proper torque spec for this either....the one nut where the Haynes manual was unclear
no need to undo the caliper to bracket bolts ,thats for if you renew the pads. just undo the 2 larger 17? bolts that hold the carrier to hub, remove as one.
About to replace my rear bearing on my 02 Maxima. I see the actual balls of the bearing are completely exposed, covered in grease. Is there suppose to be some type of housing mechanism on this that fits over the balls and under the bearing cap? What stops the grease from leaking out of the bearing once it gets hot? Thanks!
@@matthewolson8875 thanks for the reply, in the video there was no seal over it for the bearing you bought, just like the one I bought. Did that new bearing give you any problems since you put it on?
Hi All!.......The Timken's don't come with a new speed sensor sprocket. Why would I reuse the one on the current hub, my guess is it's rusted to crap? Is it difficult to reuse the sprocket or should I just go with the Moog hub which has a sensor sprocket? It kind of sucks because I keep hearing Timken is the best hub. Thanks for any input!
Correction its is called an ABS Ring and the only place to get one is at the dealer which costs $140, yes $140 for a ring. since the dealer hub comes w/o the ring I ordered the Timken and will see if I can re-use the old ring.
question. Today my o2 maxima was acting weird. I live in Chicago so we get crazy weather where it's super cold then super warm in December like today. so my question is, that when I went to go turn it on it gave me trouble and when I got it to turn on and tried to move it in reverse, it didn't let me but then i moved it and i have a check engine light, and I noticed that my gas Mileage is getting bad. Do I need a tune up & something else?
Edgar Corral wow...that is a long and involved question...I have no capacity to diagnose that over youtube. ...if your car has over 100000 miles odds are most of the rubber components are shot. ...axles...bearings etc. start playing catchup with parts replacement asap ....have a trusted mechanic go through it....especially if the car is exposed to salty roads. ...
Edgar Corral again...a question that requires a complex answer. I had mine until 165k....my brother has got to be closer to 200k on his. Depends on what goes wrong with the car...and how adept you are at fixing it...and how badly you need to get to work reliably. Worry is pointless....getting to have a mechanic is essential ...have the car checked out and best of luck
Matthew Olson Thank you for the help. Just one more thing has I'm coming out of my drive way, I tried pulling out normal but I decided just to reverse and see if she's okay and when I did I pull forward and brake to check the braking. Theirs this noise , like almost like a clap and I did it 5times and keeps doing it. Lol
I have a 2000 nissan maxima car I changed my brakes and rotors. The braking sound went away. But a loud whinning/squealing sound is there does it when I'm driving. would that be my wheel bearing causing that? Need help driving me insane
I don't know if you still follow your own channel but that inner race, why did you grind it? Was it to loosen and bang it to spin or wedging it with a flat head to get it opened enough to pull out?
I do follow my channel, but I haven't been getting notifications of comments for about a month! just catching up. now I gotta go back and look at the vid again... what time stamp are you referring to??
I figured it out, I ended up doing the same thing, time frame was 9:30 on your video. I'm having other issues on my car, it drives normal, but the minute I step on it, it just stops power and stays idles.
So, I checked what you were talking about. Yeah, the inner race can get stuck on the spindle. sometimes ya gotta break out the grinder. oh well. the power issue on your car sounds like a fuel delivery problem. its just not getting fuel. one of the forums would be a better place to have that discussion though, best of luck!
@@alkalineph9446 no, I wish. My sensors were seized and snapped off and had to be Hammeres and drilled put and replaced for $$$, the from wheel bearing races will be seized and they have to be cut or shrunk out. It was a night mare but I'd seen it done before so I was able to do it
+gregory J what about it? the sensor is shown at around the 9 minute mark. I've never had good luck taking ABS sensor out whole, so if you need to remove it, plan on replacing it. for this repair though, you don't need to remove the sensor.
Dude your torque wrench is unreliable now becuase your using it break bolts free its not a breaker bar, they make 20 dollar breaker bars to take torque. torque wrenches should never be used in this manner.
Thank you guys so much!!! Had to buy a 30mm socket, and used a breaker bar. Worked like a charm. The hardest part was the stupid bearing cap.
Great video help alot...
Make sure u get a torque wrench...
Axle grease...
N the tool that compresses the brake piston down if you replace the brake pads...
That slowed me down going to auto part store during install...
Thanks buds...
30mm socket for nut......
I bought a 35mm...
Luckily my cousin had a 30mm...
I can't believe I've been paying for someone to do my brakes....it's so freaking easy thanks to you guys for making these videos subscribed!
Brakes are easy, and vitally important the torque settings are correct, otherwise you can get killed, or something else can get killed. One of the reason I do my own is because then I know how the job was done....and that makes me more comfortable on the road :) glad you liked the vid!
Maybe someone has already commented it, given that this video is close to 6 years old, but I'll add it anyways if it helps someone out: per the factory service manual for the '02 Maxima, the bearing nut should be torqued to a value between 138 and 188 ft-lbs. Or 187-254 Nm. Pretty much what the Haynes Manual says for the older models.
Tx!
Thanks! The chisle trick you used helped me get the cap off.
smeaf251 great!
The press bolts (which released the rotor from the hub - when necessary) are metric threads.
I changed the front wheel bearings and broke the first ABS sensor and bolt. Before I tried to remove the 2nd one, I lubed both with PB Blaster and let it sit for at least 30 minutes. That's versus waitng for about 30 seconds and only on the bolt on the first one. There are raised ridges on the sensor that fit into grooves in the sensor hole. Therefore I gently tapped the 2nd sensor straight out and managed to save and reinstall it. It has no moving parts, so I was happy to reuse it and save $30!
+Ron Bishop yep, done that too... I never was able to save the abs sensor like you though, way to go!
Great vid and much appreciated. That would have been a good time to replace the ABS sensor. Looking at the rust on that car I'm pretty sure you're going to break the (weak/rusted) sensor retaining bracket bolt (good luck fixing that) and have to knock the sensor itself out of it's bore through the outside... which means you'll probably be removing all these parts one more time. I've done 3 ABS sensors on my 2001 Maxima. Only one came out the way it was meant to come out. Way to go Nissan ;) I've done the front bearings also (w/o a press) and that's a real fun job too lol
Thanks for the comment!
I just did that third sensor this morning and used your vid to see how to deal w/ the parking brake. Thanks!
Thanks for the video. Will be doing this in two days.
Phillip Datcher glad I could help!
no grease in bearings, it will not take long for the bearings to get worn out, no axle stands. the lock nut has to be renewed, every time this job is done.
thanks for the tips...#1 it was my understanding these bearings are greased at the factory and if they had needed to be packed there was no notification of such in the box. 2...totally agree with the axle stands....3...didn't know the lock nut was not reusable. seems it needs to be included with the bearing in that case. couldn't find a proper torque spec for this either....the one nut where the Haynes manual was unclear
@@matthewolson8875 Reusing the lock nut is fine. No need for a new one. It's not coming off.
Nice job guys! When can we expect to see some DIY dentistry videos from you two???
unlikely....but I do hope to start a dental youtube channel one of these days
I used the impact to tighten it because I didn’t have a ratchet or beaker bar to use. Would that be a problem?
I'm sure a lot of guys use the impact. I cant say if itll be a problem or not
Thank you heaps
Good job
no need to undo the caliper to bracket bolts ,thats for if you renew the pads. just undo the 2 larger 17? bolts that hold the carrier to hub, remove as one.
Martin Parker thanks!
A new dust shied would have been a good idea , since you have such nice rotors.
About to replace my rear bearing on my 02 Maxima. I see the actual balls of the bearing are completely exposed, covered in grease. Is there suppose to be some type of housing mechanism on this that fits over the balls and under the bearing cap? What stops the grease from leaking out of the bearing once it gets hot? Thanks!
I don't remember....I can't imagine that there isn't a seal over that somehow.....
@@matthewolson8875 thanks for the reply, in the video there was no seal over it for the bearing you bought, just like the one I bought. Did that new bearing give you any problems since you put it on?
@@2117nick I don't think so. ..the car is sitting right now but for other reasons lol
@@2117nick there's a bearing cap that goes on...it taps on
@@matthewolson8875 lol alright I'll give it try, thanks for the video and your help!
Hi All!.......The Timken's don't come with a new speed sensor sprocket. Why would I reuse the one on the current hub, my guess is it's rusted to crap? Is it difficult to reuse the sprocket or should I just go with the Moog hub which has a sensor sprocket? It kind of sucks because I keep hearing Timken is the best hub. Thanks for any input!
If you can get the speed sensor out carefully I'd reuse it. If you bust it gotta buy new. I like the Timken bearings myself
Correction its is called an ABS Ring and the only place to get one is at the dealer which costs $140, yes $140 for a ring. since the dealer hub comes w/o the ring I ordered the Timken and will see if I can re-use the old ring.
question. Today my o2 maxima was acting weird. I live in Chicago so we get crazy weather where it's super cold then super warm in December like today. so my question is, that when I went to go turn it on it gave me trouble and when I got it to turn on and tried to move it in reverse, it didn't let me but then i moved it and i have a check engine light, and I noticed that my gas Mileage is getting bad. Do I need a tune up & something else?
Edgar Corral wow...that is a long and involved question...I have no capacity to diagnose that over youtube. ...if your car has over 100000 miles odds are most of the rubber components are shot. ...axles...bearings etc. start playing catchup with parts replacement asap ....have a trusted mechanic go through it....especially if the car is exposed to salty roads. ...
She is over 105k. She runs like a champ but it just happen this morning. Should I be worried to a point that I might need to look for another car?
Edgar Corral again...a question that requires a complex answer. I had mine until 165k....my brother has got to be closer to 200k on his. Depends on what goes wrong with the car...and how adept you are at fixing it...and how badly you need to get to work reliably. Worry is pointless....getting to have a mechanic is essential ...have the car checked out and best of luck
Matthew Olson Thank you for the help. Just one more thing has I'm coming out of my drive way, I tried pulling out normal but I decided just to reverse and see if she's okay and when I did I pull forward and brake to check the braking. Theirs this noise , like almost like a clap and I did it 5times and keeps doing it. Lol
Edgar Corral sounds like a cv joint issue with an axle. ..but I'm not the best at diagnosing that stuff. ..hope that helps
I have a 2000 nissan maxima car I changed my brakes and rotors. The braking sound went away. But a loud whinning/squealing sound is there does it when I'm driving. would that be my wheel bearing causing that? Need help driving me insane
squeel...might be from a stuck caliper
...or could be as simple as your splash guard rubbing
+Matthew Olson I lubed up the caliber and bent the splash guard back so it wasn't rubbing anymore so that couldn't be it...
+rich park But are you sure the caliper pistons are free?
+Matthew Olson free as in what?
+rich park do the caliper pistons move....not just the slides need to move
What kind of grease did you use?
Generally I use mobile 1 synthetic grease
Just curious - why didnt you swap out the rusty dust/splash guards? Thanks.
Would be a good idea..I didn't have the spares at the time but that's smart
what do you recommend when taking this off at the junk yard? there is no air gun there
Ricky perkins electric impact. ...but mine isn't quite powerful enough, so you need to get the big dewalt one... that would hopefully do it.
Is the front one that easy?
I forget
I think it's different and needs to be pressed in....
I don't know if you still follow your own channel but that inner race, why did you grind it? Was it to loosen and bang it to spin or wedging it with a flat head to get it opened enough to pull out?
I do follow my channel, but I haven't been getting notifications of comments for about a month! just catching up. now I gotta go back and look at the vid again... what time stamp are you referring to??
I figured it out, I ended up doing the same thing, time frame was 9:30 on your video. I'm having other issues on my car, it drives normal, but the minute I step on it, it just stops power and stays idles.
So, I checked what you were talking about. Yeah, the inner race can get stuck on the spindle. sometimes ya gotta break out the grinder. oh well.
the power issue on your car sounds like a fuel delivery problem. its just not getting fuel. one of the forums would be a better place to have that discussion though, best of luck!
any videos on front wheel bearing?
Sorry no....wish I could help
It’ll most likely be the same process. Just make sure to remove the sensors.
@@alkalineph9446 no, I wish. My sensors were seized and snapped off and had to be Hammeres and drilled put and replaced for $$$, the from wheel bearing races will be seized and they have to be cut or shrunk out. It was a night mare but I'd seen it done before so I was able to do it
what about the abs connection?
+gregory J what about it? the sensor is shown at around the 9 minute mark. I've never had good luck taking ABS sensor out whole, so if you need to remove it, plan on replacing it. for this repair though, you don't need to remove the sensor.
Like my future
Dude your torque wrench is unreliable now becuase your using it break bolts free its not a breaker bar, they make 20 dollar breaker bars to take torque. torque wrenches should never be used in this manner.
Thanks for the comment
Next time give the camera to someone that doesn’t have Parkinson’s. Holy sh^*, I’m dizzy, and sick. I made it less than 3 minutes.
Thanks for the comment
Worries about torque specs .....throws torque wrench on the ground and expects it to be right......lol
thanks for the comment... I appreciate the sarcasm!
man that car is in poor nick, i would just scrap it and get a newer one.
yep....there is a good argument for that.