So now I understand why slice engineering has the 300c and 450c rated thermistors. I just picked up one of each and plan to do some comparisons with my vorons. I truly think that controlling temperature is the key to getting more consistent extrusion. Thanks for all you do Eddie!
Basically, because of high resistance of Trianglelab T-D500 (clone of Dyze) at low temps (rooms and up to 100 °C) I wasn’t able to set correct profile for it in Klipper via 3 temp-resistance values for Steinhart hart equation without frequent failures of Klipper to restart itself because incorrect readings (ie at 22 °C room it went to -10 °C often due to digital noise). So I took their Beta for Beta 150/250 and used beta, temp for 200 °C and resistance at that temp to calculate the thermistor temp table. Setting initial delayed Gcode in Klipper to preheat hotend to 60 °C at the start of the printer completely solved issues. And I’m quite sure it measurees correctly now as measured resistance at given temps is pretty close to table ones.
That’s good to know! Originally this video was going to be 17 minutes long, and I had some comparisons between different thermistors including the D500. I noted that the resistances were a bit strange and was concerned about the ADC resolution at the low end-but it’s really great that they set the rated temperature at 200C with a beta between 150-250-that pretty much the way it “should” be done. If only they did a regular hotend thermistor
@@eddietheengineer I plan to print at higher temps anyway (PC and CF Nylon - some needs that temp). Maybe will use that thermistor in Mosquito hotend for my future (hopefully) Railcore build for high temp materials like PEEK and Ultem. Personally, I do not care about bad ADC resolution of T-D500 or Dyze at lower temps. First, Marlin and Reprap solves this issue with higher times for failure checks and higher tolerances (not possible in Klipper). Second, these thermistors become very precize at temps 120 °C upwards (more like 140 °C up). We print at at least 190 °C anyway for PLA (which I print rarely - little bit more PETG, even more ABS+ and soon CF Nylon - have to get good one). So for typical printing temperatures, even at lower end of the spectrum, it is precise as much as possible. So, personally I don't think anyone should worry about low precision at say 100 °C and below. Those temps really don't matter to anybody. I went with this thermistor as it is very robust made - cartridge and spring cover for cables nearby heatblock are just great. Previously used EPCOS thermistor or any glass one sucks because are very fragile and cables can burn very easily too. And if you have filament leak well, it's definitely dead.
@@eddietheengineer ah man, would have enjoyed seeing that comparison. I need better temp readings for consistency between my printers, but PT-1000 + amplifier board is like an additional 20€ expense.
Nice explanation from a fellow mechanical engineer! :3 I should have been more cautious in getting a new thermistor for my Ender 5 Plus but I went with a generic one from Comgrow that at first would be a drop in replacement. I noticed I had to bring my temp to 260°C to get good extrusion of PETG. I found a video on RUclips that goes through a process to check and create a custom temp vs resistance (or ADC) table using a multimeter with a k type thermistor plugged in (found one at Home Depot for $54). Noticed the temp at 260 was actually 230 based on the multimeter temp reading which was pretty significant! Was able to get a temp table down and now it reads the right temperature at the range I print for PETG. Is this method considered wise to do if you have an odd thermistor on hand? :0
A trend I've noticed is that your audio is often very low. You may wish to compensate as to hear you, my volume has to go to a level that makes other videos extremely loud.
@@eddietheengineer Ah, if all goes well I should be doing the same in a few months. This makes me all the more excited considering how much theory applies to our printers!
Yes! Cat! Crowd is pleased. Next time moar cat.
Jokes aside, you are producing quality content.
Awesome video.
Can't wait to see one on RTDs
Just made a Twitter so I can follow lol.
So now I understand why slice engineering has the 300c and 450c rated thermistors. I just picked up one of each and plan to do some comparisons with my vorons.
I truly think that controlling temperature is the key to getting more consistent extrusion. Thanks for all you do Eddie!
Unfortunately their 300C thermistor is just a 104NT, and while the 450C has marginally better tolerance
@@eddietheengineer I got the pt1000 from TL that you linked me to, will use them on the next build.
Basically, because of high resistance of Trianglelab T-D500 (clone of Dyze) at low temps (rooms and up to 100 °C) I wasn’t able to set correct profile for it in Klipper via 3 temp-resistance values for Steinhart hart equation without frequent failures of Klipper to restart itself because incorrect readings (ie at 22 °C room it went to -10 °C often due to digital noise). So I took their Beta for Beta 150/250 and used beta, temp for 200 °C and resistance at that temp to calculate the thermistor temp table. Setting initial delayed Gcode in Klipper to preheat hotend to 60 °C at the start of the printer completely solved issues. And I’m quite sure it measurees correctly now as measured resistance at given temps is pretty close to table ones.
That’s good to know! Originally this video was going to be 17 minutes long, and I had some comparisons between different thermistors including the D500. I noted that the resistances were a bit strange and was concerned about the ADC resolution at the low end-but it’s really great that they set the rated temperature at 200C with a beta between 150-250-that pretty much the way it “should” be done. If only they did a regular hotend thermistor
@@eddietheengineer I plan to print at higher temps anyway (PC and CF Nylon - some needs that temp). Maybe will use that thermistor in Mosquito hotend for my future (hopefully) Railcore build for high temp materials like PEEK and Ultem.
Personally, I do not care about bad ADC resolution of T-D500 or Dyze at lower temps. First, Marlin and Reprap solves this issue with higher times for failure checks and higher tolerances (not possible in Klipper). Second, these thermistors become very precize at temps 120 °C upwards (more like 140 °C up). We print at at least 190 °C anyway for PLA (which I print rarely - little bit more PETG, even more ABS+ and soon CF Nylon - have to get good one). So for typical printing temperatures, even at lower end of the spectrum, it is precise as much as possible.
So, personally I don't think anyone should worry about low precision at say 100 °C and below. Those temps really don't matter to anybody.
I went with this thermistor as it is very robust made - cartridge and spring cover for cables nearby heatblock are just great. Previously used EPCOS thermistor or any glass one sucks because are very fragile and cables can burn very easily too. And if you have filament leak well, it's definitely dead.
@@eddietheengineer ah man, would have enjoyed seeing that comparison. I need better temp readings for consistency between my printers, but PT-1000 + amplifier board is like an additional 20€ expense.
Nice explanation from a fellow mechanical engineer! :3 I should have been more cautious in getting a new thermistor for my Ender 5 Plus but I went with a generic one from Comgrow that at first would be a drop in replacement. I noticed I had to bring my temp to 260°C to get good extrusion of PETG. I found a video on RUclips that goes through a process to check and create a custom temp vs resistance (or ADC) table using a multimeter with a k type thermistor plugged in (found one at Home Depot for $54). Noticed the temp at 260 was actually 230 based on the multimeter temp reading which was pretty significant! Was able to get a temp table down and now it reads the right temperature at the range I print for PETG. Is this method considered wise to do if you have an odd thermistor on hand? :0
Sub'd , Liked, Looking forward to the rest of the vid's, because of your reply to Greg below..........
twitter.com/eddietheengr/status/1366186332771524609?s=20
Here's a few plots you may find interesting!
A trend I've noticed is that your audio is often very low. You may wish to compensate as to hear you, my volume has to go to a level that makes other videos extremely loud.
Thanks for the heads up! I’ll be sure to check that on my next one 😄
Out of curiosity, what did you study in university?
Mechanical engineering!
@@eddietheengineer Ah, if all goes well I should be doing the same in a few months. This makes me all the more excited considering how much theory applies to our printers!
@@agentl3r the fun part is learning never stops! I’m just so glad that I get to understand a little more every day ☺️