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Channels like yours are hugely underrated.

I running the LDO 42STH48-2504AC with 48v and 1.768a with external fly 5160 drivers And I must say the ldo motors goes very hot, can you tell me how I can get cooler? 1.5a maybe? Or is not problem for the motors? My printer stays in my print farm and they must work for many hours the day

Do stepper motors run cooler with driver/controller set to less steps per revolution? Do stepper motors run cooler with driver/controller set to less Amps?

My takeaway from this. In an ideal world, get a granite surface plate, fixturing equipment, metrology gear. And measure every part as it comes in hoping u get the luck of the draw parts since most hobbyists are buying small qty’s & don’t have the luxury of large numbers and are completely reliant on manufacturers to be within tolerance😟

You saved me 18 euros for the SB2040-UTOC device. The RS485 was much cheaper. Thank you very much!

What stepper motor was used?

i have a question the nema 23 stepper current at 3A-48v also has the same phenomena as you when reaching 800mm/s(saw tooth-y current) my only explaination is because the motor coil is missing the rotor at lower Voltage and start to catch up at high voltage? also i am using full step setup,and fast decay behavior cannot be seen from the chart anymore,do anybody knows why,please give me some material regarding this? anything else?enlighten me please?

Good video I think if you used 2 other stepper motors both with closed loop control The test motor would be connected with a belt like you have. The other stepper motor would be connected with a coupler that would connect both closed loop steppers straight across from each other. that would allow you to put different loads on it.

this was extremely useful, thanks!

Amazing, truly TRULY. Thank you so much for taking the time to make this vid

Argh, I've been searching everywhere for instructions on how to export a multipart mesh model from Fusion360, and you skipped over that part of the process!!!! :-(.

It's a shame these kinds of videos are so hard to find on RUclips. A hidden jem, thanks for sharing!

Thank you for this. Explains what is (likely) the issue with my small core xy printer. I’ve been tearing my hair out trying to diagnose the bed mesh differences in the front corners.

Are you settling different pwm frequencies for different input voltages ?..because it is not clear to me as to how much it could be..my guess is 25kHz and 40 kHz..am I right...also what type of motor current control is implemented?

thanks for the explanation and for the documents

while there are 17 wires, you can have several items (two fans, hot end, and probe) share a common VCC wire. Also the end stop, probe, and thermistor share a common ground. This reduces the wiring from 17 to 13 in total. Still quite a few wires, but not as bad as first glance. Also even with the CAN board you STILL need to crimp connectors at the toolhead, that does NOT go away!

Hi, I know I'm late to the party, but I got an idea, I think we can make idex with the original core xy system. perfect for voron 2.4. if you copy the system you have with one belt attached to each head, but instead of separate Y motors and belts, you only drive one head out to the side and lock it mechanically, for example with a servo claw. when one head is locked, you can still use the belt attached to it to pull the carriage back and forth in the Y direction and the other motor to drive the X axis. so head A is locked then motor A is the Y axis and motor B is the X and when head B is locked motor B is the Y axis and motor A is the X axis. in my mind it works and you only need to put two heads on the machine and a locking mechanism for those at each end of the X axis, then all that is missing is the magic of programming to make the system work.

I'm curious why the only Voron IDEX system are based on the Trident and not the Voron 2.4 R2?

This was two years ago, can we build it now? There is a Voron Trident IDEX that's being sold.

excellent video , i now understand how that mesh is applied for the skirts.

Can might be able to survive 24V into the data lines!

Do you have driver a recommended tune for the 2504 on 24V 5160 Plus drivers

Belt tension needs to be set according to the manufacturer specs!

I've tested quite a few 0.9° steppers and all the ones that scored good on the calculator performed worse than the lowest scoring one. The only thing I can think of is the permanent magnets and air gap are different and pay a large role in the performance.

UM2 runs at 55mm/s infill, 40 inner walls, 30 outer walls with 3000 acceleration. And it's super noisy due to A4988 (yes on a 2500 Euro printer). No surprise yours is faster. Which acceleration do you use?

I want to put a fail-safe switch on the side of either toolhead in case I move them without homing first and they crash, the switch will stop all X axis movement automatically. (common issue with IDEX)

Standard print speed with my Voxelab is 40mm/s but this sucker is moving way faster at 30mm/s What did I read wrong?

I haven't been able to find a follow-up on your channel - seeing the BLDC driver teased in this video was really promising. Just found your channel, lots of great content!

Can you put 48v to any stepper motor? I can not find any info on this…

Update for more cht nozzle options, including volcano?

What is your settings just so i know in case i get it

I wonder if the hotend could be controlled with a heat advance, to add power based on amount of energy required to melt the volume of filament being extruded, rather than waiting for the measured temperature to drop before increasing heater power.

I love those kinds of supports, especially with abs/asa. makes upcycling super easy. cut up the remnants with regular scissors, lay out on an aluminum baking sheet, set oven (MY oven, not THE oven) to 450f and when its all flat, turn off the oven. and viola, fresh baked panel sheet. no fumes because i dont open until its cool, and as long as the baking sheet is clean and good quality, it pops out no problem.

A very profound analysis of practical side of things, but it would be really nice to have an RPM scale and figures for those of us who aren't familiar with voron's rps to mm/sec ratios and I think RPM is a more universal platform independent term anyway

How does autosensing work?

excellent video... one note, with Patreon, if you like to do so, you can collect money per project basis, which, as I understand suits you better...

I have a 300mm trident. Can I grow the x to the 350mm frame size using 470mm extrusions and keep the 300 mm bed a still make a Tridex?

Excellent

Rebuilding my 1.8 into a Tridex, can’t wait to get it running

Your content is straight out great! I really hope you'll get back to producing more content in the future!

i got k1 max with cht nozzle to print 340mm/s 40mm³/s reliably. vase mode 58mm³/s

hope you can help. trying to understand this "math" I have a voron 2.4 with that 80:16 gear for z axis. and i'm running on 0.9 deg steppers on my z rotation_distance: 50 gear_ratio: 80:16 full_steps_per_rotation: 400 microsteps: 16 This is what i had to set to get my z to move correctly But what i'm trying to understand is how did i get that rotation_distance to 50. default voron config it set to 40 for a 1.8deg stepper Or i know how i got there. i manually changed my rotation distance for 2h until i got my z to move 100mm when telling it to move 100mm Do anyone have an explanation why my rotation distance is 50 and not 40, i thought that i only had to change full steps pr rotation from 200 to 400 and klipper would do the rest :O

What application or slicer is used for preparation g-code?

Thanks for this in-depth video! In the end, what's your conclusion, how should I tension the belts of my voron? According to the Gates formula? Or what do you do you suggest?

What has happened to this project for the last year? I'm curious about its progress!

For anyone else following this guide and having issues getting the ST Link to connect, pull the housing off and wire to the correct pin based on the PCB, not on the case screen printing. I wasted a lot of time trying to make this work before I found another youtube video pointing this out. The pinout on my dongle DOES NOT match the housing.

I designed my own heated chamber on a 2.4 350 with doubled glass walls and while testing i observed that the Al. extrusions are the main way heat is escaping. They are a huge heatsink. You might wanna redesign those clips to cover the whole extrusion or find some other way to insolate them. And i really admire your work with idex, can't wait for the release.

I would be insterested to see the results at 24v

Rarely am i disappointed when a video ends…this is one of those rare times. WELL DONE!!!!!!!!

You didn't varry the voltage!