maison margiela, anti-fashion, sleaze and nostalgia (video essay)
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- Опубликовано: 7 янв 2023
- Works Cited:
1. Exhibition Review: Maison Martin Margiela 20 by Nicolas Cambridge
2. Cross Temporal Explorations: Notes On Fashion and Nostalgia by Heike Jenss (2013)
3. (Re)collecting the past: Fashion, wardrobe, and memory by CJ Babula
4. When Clothes Become Fashion by Ingrid Loschek (Page 42)
5. Cultural meaning and hip-hop fashion in the African-American male youth subculture of New Orleans by Vern Kenneth Baxter
6. Spatial “wRapping” A Speculation on Men’s Hip Hop Fashion by Scott L. Ruff
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twitter: / rianphin
tiktok: thatadult 
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e-girl/boy analogy is so spot on,, cant wait for my future children to come home w thrifted galaxy leggings 😭
rian’s brain… i want to go to there
but it’s not a real place…
Babe wake up Rian posted a new video essay
The whole "nostalgic for a time you did not experience in a weird way" phenomenon was definitely a thing in the early 2010s. We did the exact same thing back then too. A lot of millennials at that time, who just turned 18-20 were longing for the 80s fashion, all the uni students in my country were wearing high waisted acid wash jeans, thick rimmed big glasses, oversized 80s thrifted sweaters or oversized denim jackets, but not worn in the same way that is was 25 years before. There was a lot of fake 80s graphic design at the time. Everyone was editing their photos with light leaks and "vintage" filters. A lot of re-imagined nostalgia was also in the popular media with the rise of comic books turned into movies, and then it peaked in the mid 2010s with Stranger Things. The older millennials who remember bits of their childhood from the late 80s longed for their early memories and the younger millennials longer for the imagined carefree time of when their parents met. It is so weird seeing the next generation doing the exact same thing with the 90s/2000s era...
The dragging of the 17 year old had me dying🤣🤣 as someone born in the mid 90s, I definitely feel “nostalgic” when I listen to 80s music and romanticize that time🤣
Me too!!!
srsly, me too and when it happend again like 20 minutes later😭
That’s interesting. I was born in the 1980’s and don’t romanticize that time, nor do I pine for the 1970’s. I’m more nostalgic for the 90’s. I wonder why that is.
I totally feel that about recognizing that social media is not a real physical place but we put so much value and emotions into it. I noticed this recently and have been putting more emphasis on not being online all the time by taking the apps off my phone and placing a higher importance on real life and striving for success in real life vs online. It’s such a process especially when I’m an internet kid too and have built a following and made money online. But I don’t see myself being online the way I have been forever so I’m moving different and finding my perfect balance.
15:15 this ties in to this idea of reclaiming your youth, fantasising about being able to do it right and do it over and perfecting that experience through the way you fashion an identity using nostalgia.
I gasped out loud, the connection of these ideas is beautiful
MySpace club girl/indie sleaze/fashion boho girl is late 2000s like (respectively): Snooki, early Kesha and Katy Perry, and then Lindsay/Mary-Kate Olsen and runway collections in 2007-2009.
Y2k is blaque, 3lw, most early 2000s girl groups, and is different from McBling- I understand eventually they merged in ways but it's weird to associate something that means "apocalyptic dread/fear" with a baguette bag and a mini skirt from 2000s and not a futuristic aesthetic lol
i've been listening to rock (post-punk, emo, etc.) since middle school, but i embraced a gothic aesthetic during the pandemic. seeing a death toll increase so drastically on the news every day compelled me to reflect my mourning, and now that i'm watching this i realize my physical display of grief through fashion is a way of resisting the united states' taboo culture around death. yes, i'm sad about the state of the world, but ignoring death, grief, and other negative emotions associated with it only serves to harm us more in the long run.
at the same time, i've caught myself being nostalgic for the 80s--the batcave club in london, the ubiquity of goths in public spaces, etc. etc.--before remembering that an afro-latina like myself would not be as welcome into those spaces (despite black contributions to gothic subculture as a whole).
sorry for the long-winded comment, but this is such a fascinating video and i'm glad the algorithm got it right for once
also the mainstream is consistent and subcultures represent eras more specifically!!!!
So the mainstream is consistent with the ideas thoughts and practices of the wealthy people at the time and poor folks usually reside in subculture
I think something that links to the whole feeling displacement on the internet thing is the inherent dissatisfaction that comes with not being perceived fully or at all. Like if I make a comment on RUclips that is somewhat meaningful to me and I have no proof anyones ever seen it that makes me feel bad but I think it’s a deeper thing of needing to be seen and needing to be affirmed. Even the times online when we are being acknowledged it’s never like the totality of our being it’s a very specific part, you’ve fragmented urself for others’ consumption/perception and I think there’s something actually distressing about that.
And ALSO you can see why it is in times of mass consumption that these reiterations from the past and collective tales of what a certain time used to look like, really pop off, because in reality, all of our 2000s were different, we have distinct and individual experiences, there is no “2000s lifestyle” but with these artificial images the “feeling” that we remember from advertisements and mainstream media just homogenizes all of our experiences. Kind of like how fast fashion and any way to,engage with trends inherently strips you from your individuality
"we went to twitter together" made me laugh lol
i think blues clues thing is funny because i’m 18 and most of my friends only ever saw steve reruns as kids. so steve is the only host we’ve experienced 🤣
This video gave me a very spiritual awakening on why I make art--- I am literally a throwback hoe longing for things I never had so I create from the idea of references of things that seemed simpler at the time. This video is such a slay, thank you.
as a 18 year old I do feel nostalgic towards these things because I In fact grew up with them from simply having older siblings n being the youngest 💗 I lived in two times
tuning into your videos is truly like attending class I always leave sooo drastically informed almost like I want to take notes even this is my favourite fashion theory place YET
Your videos are the closest I get to smoking a cigarette these days lol like an intellectual nicotine rush. I think you’re so incisive it’s crazy.
I once heard the BBC documentarian, Louis Theroux say on a podcast, nostalgia is “a feeling for the past that you never had at the time”… pretty much in perfect harmony with what you’re articulating here.
I was born in 93 and the nostalgia I have for the 90s is out of this world even though I don’t remember much before 1998. Y2K fashion hadn’t done it for me really but I’m more into the y2k pop culture. Also, I just discovered you today and I’m obsessed!
ive spent the past few days trying to enrich myself on fashion knowledge and its philosophy and this one is one like.. the first 4 videos I've watched. SO informative!! pages of notes written down, love the way you articulate your words with such an eclectic vocabulary. we will be binge watching !! i found myself laughing and giggling through the video, writing quotes down when you said "whats more certain than snooki" .. bc like.. it literally all makes sense. everything you say is so thorough and concise !! not to mention the doll making point connected back to nostalgia and childhood like omg I love this way of critically thinking yes yes yes YES
And this is why I’m a fan.
snookie to margiela pipeline? i’m in!
What's so crazy is that I literally read Rookie Mag when I was like 9 to 11 years old, so I'm nostalgic of something from my childhood that people older than me wrote to be nostalgic of their own childhoods...wow.
I just found my new favorite youtube channel. You are brilliant!
“Nostalgia is illusion. The present is reality” #facts
found you via twitter, i love the way you articulate yourself in a way that makes what you think clear but also doesn’t treat the audience like idiots. thank you for your work i love it!!
yaasss feature length
looking at Margiela as an investigation and toying with nostalgia cleaned my glasses a bit. Going to dive a little deeper tyty
love your talks so much, so thought-provoking! and i love your to the point presentation without loads of flashy editing. i hope you blow up on here
I love this video essay!!! you put it together so perfectly
nostalgia as a substitute for mourning. omg. someone send this video to whoever is still running up r. kelly's streams. this is so applicable to the music-industrial complex & the corporate machine that is ruining the general philosophies & sensibilities of the average music-listener. I would argue too that the psychosis of nostalgia acts as a vehicle to harmful cycles of generational trauma. omg I have so much to think about :o
Yooo this video essay was so good !!!!, you made me nostalgic for art school critiques❤
But fr it was actually very comforting and reassuring, truly enjoyed it thank you
Also appreciate your attention to the differences in early 2000s, I was in a school heavy in our baby phat , rocawear and ecko era and I feel like no one talks about that or misses it all together , like yea it wasn’t all Abercrombie and actually at my school it was considered lame and suburban looking
I never been to oovoo Javer
no matter what in the world is happening I’m always thinking of that video 😭😭😭lollll
This is my fav video of yours yet
oh i really like you! so happy and excited to have found this channel
nostalgia, dolls, the dressform, and longing for a sense of belonging in regards to margiela are so relevant after the 2024 couture show!! s glad i found this
I gave the 9 year old I watch a certain type of Christmas candy last month and she said omg I haven’t had one of these in decades. 😭 her grandma was on video chat at the time and freaked out about the math lol
It’s really interesting to me also, the sheer certainty that younger kids have about knowledge of styles and fashion history .😅 she wanted to know what an emo really meant and it got deep
I loved this so much! Childhood and other moments/timelines of nostalgia are perfect modes of marketing fashion and beauty. Just like youth (you can never truly be younger), thinness (it's difficult and dangerous to be as thin as marketers propose), height (you cant be taller after adulthood), rich (there is a limit to how much money you can have as capitalism has taught us), whiteness (even white people find it hard to be as white as marketing would proposition), blonde(this is possible for most but it's underlining danger is losing your own autonomy). It's all a carrots dangling in our faces leading us forever towards checkout.
I saw this installation piece (can't remember the artist) that was cutouts of a literal house. A chimney, a doorway, a wall. You could see al the insides of the structure you don't normally get to see. It stuck with me and I routinely wonder what's going on inside my own walls of my tiny nyc apartment. All the hidden worlds, the good and the bad. This is what Margiela does for me. When I see a lot fo their work it makes me me think about and contemplate all the inside worlds in what we cover our bodies with.
Losing autonomy as blonde? How?
@@stepahead5944 It's one thing to change your appearance because you like it and like the way it makes you look/feel. But you lose self government if you feel like you need to make those changes so you can gain access to power. Besides the time and money (and hair damage) the only real negative to bleaching your hair is the pressure you might have to do so in spite of what you might actually want.
rian is royalty and superiority we never deserved.
Great video. It’s interesting to see ways these companies and corporate digital culture persuade us to think and feel, I agree with so much.
A great way to combat all this. Is just log off. I deleted social media, Instagram, Facebook etc. And by just completely logging off the digital world. None of these feelings , concepts even matter anymore.
The nostalgia thoughts disappear and thoughts on trends etc identity based on others disappears. I feel like we can less complicate our lives by just getting off the digital space.
It seems many just struggle with this out of fear of just missing out. And I’m 24 and it was hard bc all your peers are still online. But you realise all these overwhelming ideas when engaging in fashion and digital world just vanquish quite fast…
not done listening to this yet but it is SO! GOOD! i keep stopping what i'm doing to run over to my notebook to write interesting points down. thank you!
Wonderful!
Not sure what I watched to make the algorithm recommend this to me but I'm so glad it did!! This is a really eloquent expression of things I think about a lot daily, but condensed and put together in a way I wouldn't have thought to articulate them. And with a lot of ideas I didn't think about before but really love.
I also find myself caught in nostalgia for early 2000s things that is distinctly not mine. I grew up in a country that was pretty far removed from American and (to a slightly lesser degree) Western European culture, but because of how the internet has homogenized everything I feel nostalgic for the same things Americans do. On the other hand, I was far more online than kids my age were in my country (e.g. I somehow ended up moderating a Winx Club forum when I was 9 lol) so I had more exposure to western stuff of that era than my peers would have... Sometimes I end up finding more belonging among people who DID grow up with, say, 4kids as a channel they actually saw on TV, whereas I was watching 4kids cartoons on the internet in English, which isn't even my first language. Other times I end up acting like the elderly version of the 17 year old with the Blues Clues tiktok. It's a very weird limbo of "is this my nostalgia, or is it artificially generated".
watching this video feels like attending to a marketing class on consumer behavior. so good 😮💨
I think as a baby millennial that didn't grow up in the US, I was like Gen Z is now in terms of having a warped view of the culture as seen only through specific media (feeling major yikes across the time-space continuum)
also thinking of these "90s/00s show looks" compilations but when you watch the actual TV it's mad problematic and sometimes sl-- shame galore
...mind you I'm only 20 mins into this vid. Your mind ugh
this recent streak of videos is superb
thanks so much
i think people like the juxaposition of celeb trash because it's like white trash/lower-working income mixed with prestige. just like nepo babies are being called out but still liked or ironically liked. people want to be cool but also not dominating or oppressive and celeb trash is the appearance of being cool without seeming elite. it's the tension between good person/sjw/woke and aesthetics. how can you be ethically hot? how can you like fashion and makeup and be feminist? how can you say something is phobic and looks don't matter but also adjust yourself categorically because you do in fact want to be perceived a certain way?
Can't wait to rewatch this!
I wish i was this well spoken. Such an excellent video!!!!
This was really good. Thank you for sharing , very insightful
Glad to find ya channel! 🎉❤
Welcome!! me too, thanks for coming!
ok the point you made at 34:44 perfectly explains what i could never put into words about some kpop groups. There's this song called "90s love" by nct and baiscally the whole theme of it is the 90s but it was obvious that it was heavlily inspired by black culture -- down to the outfits and sound production it is dripping with the nostalgic craving that you described despite us never actually tasting it.( I'm pretty sure one of the members was even wearing a durag? Lol) anways my point is -- is that the music video always rubbed me the wrong way but I couldn't actually say what was so wrong with it without being bombarded by people calling me sensitive. The fact is these idols will never know the struggle that black people faced during that time. To me, it felt like they were putting on a "costume" and i couldn't help but cringe at some of the outfits. Like you said, the defiance of the black community going agaisnt social standards was shown through their apparel and now in the present day we cherry pick that past apparel according to today's standards even tho we have nothing to do with it. But imo it will never compare. I think this situation can apply to a lot of diffrent eras/cultures but this was an example that was so painfully obvious.
Omg are you an nctzen? Lol I love that song
Great job I hope you get a ton of success from this video its so smart
Thank you so much!
This video was chefs kiss. Instant subscribe.
58 min? Perfect for a late night drive
im in love with u! thank u for ur videos
Absolutely Brilliant! I just found your space today and as a seamstress 16 years in the fashion game I’ve had time to think about how trends and modes are metabolized and you completely nailed and synthesized thoughts just bouncing around in my head over the past years! Margiela and sleaze and by extension creepiness are some things I’ve gnawed at recentky and adding Y2K and of course nostalgia, is very revelatory to me. Thank you and absolutely fabulous! I look forward to catching up on your videos.
When I was 14 I was like “I miss the era of friends” knowing I was born years after the show ended.
fantastic video!
“We went to Twitter today 😍😍” 😭😭😭😭😭😭😭
2:54 emo SpongeBob jumpscare
“I miss Sanford & sons” is funny af
this was such a good rant
great essay
hello fellow Rian addicts! we gather here once again
9:16 I wasn’t coherent in the early 2000s but I feel like a good example of the disrespect they received would be the song nasty girl by destiny’s child? Right?
this was awesome
This video is so interesting
Me listening to Everything but the Girl pretending like I miss walking home from the club at 2 AM
the blues clues rant lmfaaaooo 😭😭😭
fire.
I am the gobgalobgalob and I love BOOKS
20:06 shy smith?
rian plss cite the sourses! ty ily
kk ily
I grew up with lindsey lohan in my media and i wasnt super into fashion nor media gossip and rumors so i liked lindsey lohan before the drugs since she was in the movies and shows i saw and she seemed cool. so I kind of feel like she did have a moment when she was the “coolest” but the slander came down hard when she starting to take more drugs and looked more worn out, tired, “raggedy”.
omg yes pls make that vid about the internet
Have you ever considered getting a masters in anthropology or sociology?
i really would like to!
Is the Jameson quote of the works in the works cited?
i think it’s inside the Heike Jenss article
snooki to margiela industrial complex.. love
Just hurt me to think ppl wont realize the impact of black milk galexy leggings with jeffrey cambells.....
Nostalgia can be so conservative isn't it!! A distorted mourning for an imagined, better past. Goes hand in hand with people wishing for better "times gone by" in ways that can be ahistorical or enacting erasure. Random example but reminds me of capitalist Hollywood interest in flapper fashion without an understanding of queer communist life in weimar republik germany. Makes so much sense that nostalgia marketing is so prevalent right now with the way politics and societal care for human life is going... anyway I need to get back to watching the video now 😍
oh thats a very interesting video (finally!) ! though i think i mostly disagree. Will definitely check your other contents
i don't know what this means but you definitely don't have to
Lol, i just found your video interesting although i dont agree with your analysis
you're my god
Yas with the Fred Jameson
I think people resonate with “Y2k” fashion/culture because in some people’s minds it represents a more carefree, superficial time. Despite how terribly some of the notable figures were treated, it represents a time when many of us were more concerned about salacious celeb gossip or low-brown reality shows than economic failure, fascism and authoritarianism, increasing inequality and xenophobia, and environmental collapse. Of course, there was plenty of turmoil in a post-9/11 world, Bush and the wars in Iraq and Afghanistan, later the 2008 financial crisis…but it did not feel as wholly bleak as it does now.
20:46
22:14
22:43
25:12
On the topic of the misinformation and appropriation of Y2K fashion/culture. I think it deals with access to pop culture back then. Regular people weren't dressing in the chrome, plasticy garb because they were essentially costumes. You would see them in music videos, movies, video games, because Y2K represented the idea of a computer led future. The appliances might have looked y2k, but even then they were gimmicky.
But it looked cool, so to those who were so young or weren't born yet, their idea of the late 90s -early 2000s bleed together. Access to certain movies, toys, and games from that era from older relatives perhaps. But the actual era was so short.
In relation to that, someone mentioned the 2010. With that comes vaporwave and future funk. And the neo-80s look. Vaporwave/future funk purposefully took old iconography and samples from the 80s and morphed it into idea of capitalistic surrealism.
But since we're post Y2K, people have more access to niche sub cultures. So, they swung their appreciation for it back into following what marketing teams from the early 90s would have produced. The bright, loud apparel, random squiggles and shapes on things, assymetrical classes. And just brighter "personalities".
The further away society gets from a certain, passing culture, the further they rely on what pop culture of that time deemed trendy
write a book plss
yo ur mind
sensaatomalllll
ohhhhh YEAH
the 60's had segregation and homophobia but all tumblr remembers is poodle skirts and milkshakes.
Your mind is so powerful, and hit a lot of nails on the head (ESPECIALLY pertaining to "you didnt go to Myspace/Tumblr") UGH!!!!!
13:16 is me.
Also I feel like people love to worship the fashion styles of these women you mention around 11:00 BECAUSE they were treated so poorly by the public and now that popular culture has moved forward somewhat (at least misogyny wise), people want to pay their respects to these women who were put through such harsh criticism.
It’s funny cause (don’t crucify me lol) I didn’t realize that I was actually subscribed to the Maison Margiela YT account till after watching this lol. I found it like a couple weeks ago, and thought…(again don’t crucify me)….he was a..underground fashion designer 💀💀💀! Cause I never really heard of him! I’m into fashion but I’m not a designer fashion dweeb ya know? I can name a few but not like hella ppl. Anyways I found that funny, and I love this video!
not me being first
please don't tell me galaxy print is back. PLEASE.
LMAO
I know I’m like super late to this video lol but I just want to say a. I love all of the videos I’ve seen from you. You are definitely one of my favorite fashion historians lol B. I am 29 so I remember all these eras now my favorite era is the y2k but the 1999-2000 cyberpunk lfuturism feel with technology fashion art all giving future. My favorite game is jet set radio future and viewtiful joe these games combined fashion grunge and cyberpunk aesthetics and kind of shaped me into who I am or my taste in fashion today . I think there’s this blur of that and the bling era of the early 2000s that most people aren’t registering
Wait why is the word wh*te censored?
so i can stay monetized
this is what happens when aspiring creatives get their inspiration from instagram moodboards who regurgitates the same content
Not even spongebob?!
lmao