Master of Wine Discusses SAUTERNES
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- Опубликовано: 31 май 2024
- In this video, Bob Paulinski Master of Wine discusses aged Sauternes, at classic of Bordeaux. I’m digging deep into my personal wine collection to open a 25 year bottle of Chateau Filhot. This tasting will provide some insight into what happens when a Sauternes wine is aged. In the description, I’ll provide suggestions of current releases to search out. I’ve had this wine cellared away for many years. It’s been stored well and if it’s like past bottles are an indication, it should still be showing well.
For starters, Sauternes is about 40K south of the city of Bordeaux. It’s a place that’s ideal for the formation of Botrytis Cinerea or Noble Rot. In most wine regions this would be completely unwelcome and problematic, but for Sauternes it’s the catalyst for something magical.
The mold works its charms by tiny perforations into the grape skin. It draws liquid from the grapes, it shrivels the fruit, concentrating the flavors, sugar and acid, raised acetic acid is also a common outcome. Because the weather varies, some vintages have little to no Botrytis, in other years it can be rather pronounced.
Specific to Chateau Filhot, its 2nd Growth within the 1855 Bordeaux Classification. Filhot like most Sauternes is primarily made from Semillon due to the thin grape skins of ripe Semillon, BC can easily penetrate the fruit. Sauvignon Blanc is usually used to a lesser amount, it helps to lift the acidity. Filhot tends to us more SB than most other properties. And Muscadelle is a small player that broadens the aroma. Often, the grapes are picked through multiple passes through the vineyard to select well ripened individual grapes. The low volume and intense labor mean the wines will not be cheap.
A small amount goes a long way which is why I like 375ml bottles for this sort of wine. The wines are aged in oak which contributes to the deeper color, but the primary factor is bottle aging which brings a long slow oxidative process. The color will continue to deepen, and it’ll become pronounced after an extended time. Sometimes tartaric crystals will form in the bottle, either clinging to the cork or settling to the bottom of the bottle. It’s quite common, harmless and indication that the wine has not been over manipulated.
Shopping suggestions posted below (all 375ml bottles). Top vintages over the last decade or so are: 2017, 2015, 2014, 2013 (uneven quality) and 2011.
2019 Roumieu Lacoste (consistent an outstanding value) $23
2017 Suduirant $40 (pronounced oak)
2017 Coutet $30 (pronounced oak)
2017 Filhot $25
2017 Doisy Verdines $25
2015 Bastor Lamontagne 750ml $40 (excellent value)
2015 Suduirant $38 (pronounced oak)
2015 Filhot $30
#bordeaux #winetasting #wine #winelife #frenchwine #dessert #wset #sauternes #sweetwine #bobpaulinski #masterofwine
Love Sauternes. My favorites being Suduiraut, de Malle, and Rieussec. I was recently at a retirement dinner where a course of foie gras was served with 1967, '75, and '01 d'Yquem. Just wonderful.
Nice! ‘67 is an amazing vintage for Sauternes!
I brought a 750 of 2002 to Thanksgiving dinner. Most of the group ignored it it favor of the obvious wines, while one fellow Sauternes lover and I finished the bottle throughout the meal. It was the most memorable and satisfying TG meal I’ve enjoyed.
I hear stories like this often, makes me laugh every time. Do you remember the wine producer?
A true Master of wine.Great lesson, as always, on how to judge and enjoy fine bottle of wine.
Well aged Sauternes a rare treat. Thanks for the kind words. Cheers!
Great stuff Bob! When I was a young lawyer I befriended an elderly client who was a widower with very few family or friends. One evening he invited me to his house for dinner. After a couple of hours of listening to his stories and looking through his collection of books and photos, he broke out a "special" bottle of wine he had been saving for the right occasion. I did not know much about wine at the time, but it was a 1976 Yquem!!!
I am sure he had harbored grander visions of what occasion would call for the bottle to be opened, but I was so in awe, so appreciative, and enjoyed it so much, that I think it made him happy. I moved away a few years later, and I heard that he died shortly thereafter. But the memory has stayed with me over the years.
Thank you for the wonderful story. A great chateau from one of the best Sauternes vintages over the last several decades. I’ve had that same wine once in my life, about twenty years ago. A memorable experience. Cheers!
In 1980-81 I was in study abroad in Grenoble. I went to visit an American friend in Bordeaux who was friends with the son of the director of Chateau d’Yquem, who was also the owner of Chateau Raymond-Lafon, just a short walk away. So we got a private tour of Chateau d’Yquem and one other down the road, I don’t remember the name. Then dinner at Chateau Raymond-Lafon, and here is the most interesting part of the story. At dinner, we were about 7 or 8 people, and we had only one kind of wine, ALL through dinner: Chateau Raymond-Lafon, a Sauternes. Seemed perfectly normal to them.
John, thanks for sharing the story about a once in a lifetime experience. I’ve had dinners in Bordeaux that were paired with Sauternes only for the entire meal. Every dish was ultra rich. One meal hit my calorie max for the week! Did you enjoy the meal? I’m sure it included Foie Gras!
@@bobpaulinskimasterofwine7234 I don't remember the food part, other than a couple of gateaux from the patisserie.
I was at a tasting (blind) of 76 Sauternes, including d’Yquem, back in the early 90s. Many of the wines were outstanding, but one blew my mind. It was a ringer. 76 von Simmern TBA- hattenheimer mussbrunnen, I think (not 100% sure on the vineyard). It was so much more exciting, for me, than all off the Sauternes, including d’Yquem. I rarely get excited by the prospect of a glass of Sauternes these days. But the prospect of a BA or TBA Riesling will definitely get me excited
'76 is one of the top vintages for both Sauternes and Rheingau. You're thinking of Nussbrunnen, an excellent vineyard source. BA and TBA is definitely exciting wine.
Wow that cork looked fantastic indeed! Always been a big Sauternes (and dessert wines in general!) fan. My favorite would be Climens. Approaching the quality of Yquem but for a fraction of the price. Also bonus points for being a Biodynamic pioneer. Recently changed ownership so I hope it doesn't affect the quality too much!
Thanks for commenting. The cork was holding up very well, always a good sign. Climens is excellent. My guess is the quality will remain solid as is always been the case.
Good content as always, thanks!
Thank you.
Recently bought Château Rieussec's second wine, 2021 vintage, celebrating my son's birth year, hoping the stuff can stand the test of time, and even if it is a little over the hill, to drink something from your birth year is a unique and special thing in any case.
Store it well, it'll make 20 years with no issue.
@@bobpaulinskimasterofwine7234 great! I was wondering as well - in your opinion what's the most effective way of keeping the labels in good nick? A cling film wrap seems to be a good option...?
@@blurdsYes, cling wrap is a cheap, easy solution that works quite well
I do like the aged videos you do….and Sauternes too! I’m a big fan of these with a good blue cheese or a rustic Paté too. The oldest I’ve had is an 82, and I just had a 20 that was amazing. Thanks again for another great video
As always, thanks for the good word. Sauternes is a treat, love it!
I have said it menny times. but Sauternes are Amazing...
I would higly recomend Ch Coutet. in good vintages. very good value.
And its, when ready as good as Suduiraut and Rieussec. witch imo are the "Super secondes" from Sauternes..
A Really good vid Bob..😁
Thank you for the nice comment. I’ve had many sensational bottles of Coutet over the years. The myriad of aromas from good Sauternes is flat out compelling.
@@bobpaulinskimasterofwine7234 Amen..
I havent purchased a botritizied wine yet but last year I made myself one for the first time with Palomino grapes from old vines. Giving that Palomino is really neutral grape I thought it could be interesting. I opened a bottle after and the wine improved a lot in just 1 year (2 months of fermentation + 4 months on the lees and 6 on the bottle). The work of picking each aszú berry one by one and make multiple passings is to collect them all is important. No wonder is that expensive.
There's a lot of risk making wines from BC fruit. When it comes together, it can be rather amazing. You made a wine from BC grapes? Where are you based?
@@bobpaulinskimasterofwine7234 Im from Galicia, Spain. Yes, only about 10 L and fermented in a demijohn. If I had used some kind of wood container for ageing could be even better. This vintage the conditions of developed botritys were not so good (lack of morning foggs) so I made a Late Harvest one. Making wine is even more fun than drinking it hehe
@@MrJcalvino Outstanding! Thanks for the follow up reply!
I have been enjoying the videos on aged wines, I find I enjoy older wines with tertiary notes more now so than 10 or 15 years ago.
I think that sweet wines, especially ones with noble rot are underappreciated by many wine lovers. We have enjoyed Sauternes, Louipac, Monbazillac, Ortega TBA and a VDN Rivesaltes Ambre Hors d' Age.
But our favorite is Tokaji Aszu, as the combination of Furmint, Harslevelu and Sarga Muskotaly (Muscat Blanc Petite a Grains), plus the terroir is simply heavenly. We had a 2013 that we bought in Hungary in 2019, and aged in Taiwan till November 2023.
It had amazing notes of dill, marmalade, marzipan, stone fruit, refreshing acidity and was very viscous. It had some tartaric crystals which made it even more special. Cheers and great video!
As always, I appreciate your comments. Loupiac and Monbazillac can be incredible values. I haven't seen an Ortega TBA in a very long time. Most anyone who tries Tokaji Aszu will be hooked. On the short list of the world's great wines. Cheers and thank you!
@bobpaulinskimasterofwine7234 We don't often drink Ortega Trockenbeerenauslese either. That was a gift from a friend. We generally drink Tokaji Aszu or another more affordable noble rot sweet wine.
@@solomonmengeu1003 Hugely under-rated wines.
I loved the video! Aged wine tastings is so rare. Thanks for sharing this experience with us!
Thank you for the kind message. Much appreciated!
Thanks, Bob. Good video. I too love Sauternes and am currently drinking half bottles of 2013 Doisy Vedrines. The prized possession in my cellar is a single bottle of 1986 Yquem. Also, we will be drinking my last bottle of 2007 Chateau Broustet this Christmas.
Steven, thanks for the good word. This is the season for Sauternes. Your prized bottle will be sensational when the time comes to open it. I’ve had good bottles of Broustet, it’ll be a winner.
I was recommended to buy a small bottle of 2000 Château de Myrat (2nd growth as well I believe), which wasn't too expensive. It gave off a powerful scent of marron glacé, which I'm not sure is a treat that can be found much outside Spain and maybe France. It was an absolute delight, teeming with complexity. I fell in love immediately with Sauternes.
Sauternes, especially those with some age can have among the most amazing aromas of any wines.
Very interesting, thanks for sharing. For me, it's the available ready to drink wines I'm most interested to get your options on . This was still cool to see. Thanks.
Thank you for the comment, as always. As for available ready to drink wines, there are some upcoming videos that should be to your liking.
Another thanks for these videos on aged wines. We don't have a lot of Sauternes but i often buy a 375ml as an extra Christmas present for my wife. Our oldest unopened Sauternes are a couple remaining from the 2001 vintage.
Larry, thanks for the good word. Same for me. I drink much Sauternes, but when I do it’s tends to be thoroughly enjoyable. Old Sauternes is extra special. Cheers!
@bobpaulinskimasterofwine7234 Actually for me, though I enjoy the Sauternes I would rather open a GKA or Eiswein Mosel riesling.
Off topic, do you subscribe to the free Mosel Fine Wines newsletter by Jean Fisch and David Rayer? Highly recommended!
@@larrydalton2205Larry, thank you for the heads up on the newsletter. I’ll subscribe!
@@bobpaulinskimasterofwine7234 Two or three comprehensive reviews a year of the last vintage and some older wines as well.
@@larrydalton2205 Handy information!
Great video, and timely! December holidays tend to be when I open a Sauternes. They are a bit pricey, but often you can acquire them retail with a 20 years of age on them already.
Thanks for the good word. I also tend to open Sauternes during the holiday season. They can be pricey, but they usually deliver a great experience. Cheers.
Great video! I'm a fan of Sauternes myself, though some can be a bit of a slog with the high viscosity and sugar- kind of like drinking maple syrup! Do you have recommendations for producers whose wine are lighter bodied? Also, how does the body of Sauternes compare to other dessert wines like BA and TBA, Tokaj, Vouvray doux etc? Thanks and keep up the fantastic content!
Thanks for the kind message. The one from the video is a lighter style in most vintages. Look for Chateau Filhot. Of the wines that you've mentioned, BA and TBA will be lighter, 7% to 9% alcohol They will also be absent of oak. Vouvray is hugely under-rated, as is Quarts de Chaumes. Any of the fortified dessert wines will be fuller styled. I'm looking to piece together a video on Australian Muscat. I love the wines, but they a very rich, sweet and concentrated.
What are your thoughts on Sigalas Rabaud? I had the 2008 and really enjoyed it but have nothing to compare it to.
It’s a great estate. Classic, Semillon based wines. Can age for years. ‘08 is a decent vintage, not a high level of Botrytis.
Thank you for an interesting vid, and I watched with much interest. A suggestion for a future video perhaps: how about the differences and the most interesting (not necessarily the most expensive) wines of the right and the left bank ? Le Puy, Chateau Rochemorin, Chateau Feytit-Clinet, Chateau Bel-Air (lussac-st emilion), etc ? Good idea ? ^_^
Rick, thanks for the comment. This was a quick video, some go deeper. I’m looking at more extended time videos with much more detail. Mixing it up to see what works best. Cheers!
Hi Bob. Thanks very much for this timely video. Recently I was fortunate enough to obtain a 2001 D'Yquem. I plan to drink this in 2026. Do you have any opening, serving or food pairing tips for this special wine? Thanks in advance, sir.
Hi Christopher, this is primetime for Sauternes! You have a sensational vintage of d'Yquem. My guess is the color has deepened only a slight amount. It likely has some tartrate crystals. I suggest not serving it too cold, 12C/55F. Use your best stemware, hopefully something with a broad bowl and good funnel shape at the rim. Roquefort or Foie Gras are classic matches. Dessert made from pears, peaches, apricots or figs would work well. Make sure the wine is sweeter than the dessert. If it goes that other way, the wine will not show its best. I hope that helps.
@@bobpaulinskimasterofwine7234 Thank you very much for the information Bob. In your opinion, because this is such a special vintage, should it be enjoyed with food or simply enjoyed on its own? Thanks again for your excellent videos and taking the time to respond.
@@christophermoore7011For great wines like the one you have, I prefer to pair it with a simple dish, nothing that will blot out the wine.
Great video. I’m new to fortified & sweet wines, looking forward to my first-I have a couple 375s of Chateau Guiraud sitting in my cellar. Seems like infanticide to pop the cork now…but how long can I wait? The aged stuff is pricey. Any advice appreciated. Thanks, Bob
Thanks for the good word. What vintage do you have?
@@bobpaulinskimasterofwine7234 2015
@@bobpaulinskimasterofwine7234 2015
I see that you are tasting from a full sized glass. If I were pouring a typical 2 oz serving of sauternes after dinner, what size and type of glass would you recommend?
A glass with a smaller bowl. Fill the glass to the widest part of the bowl. It’ll allow for max surface area to maximize the aroma.
I really like Sauternes, although when I see a PX in the menu I tend to go for that instead 😊
I take it that PX is on the menu in the Maldives.
@bobpaulinskimasterofwine7234 🤣🤣 no is not, unfortunately no Sauternes nor PX. Only 1 type of Port 🙄
@@lauracanna2201 Only one type of Port? I hope the two of you can survive that hell! 😂
@@bobpaulinskimasterofwine7234🤣🤣 just about.. only because they have a good wine selection 😁
No wonder the wines are expensive. What is your opinion on Barsac wines. Are they just as good as Sauternes?
Barsac is one of the communes within the broader region. Due to more silt, alluvial soil, Barsac can come across as lighter and fresher in some vintages. For practical purposes the difference is nil.
@@bobpaulinskimasterofwine7234Would Barsac be a better choice for an “everyday” Bordeaux dessert wine?
@@numanuma20Your best bet for value is Loupiac.
Ramond Lafon por moi
That’s a beauty!