How To Install Cement Board on the Floor- measuring and cutting tips
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
- www.sothatshowy... I show you how to install cement board around a toilet flange. See the
helpful tips I share to make this an easy task. I also share tips on
cutting the cement board and what type of knife I use.
Ask me your questions on my Facebook Page, just click the link below - / sothatshowyoudothat
Check out My Project Planner-Tile Edition, checklists for tools, supplies and materials. What I use and where to get them.
www.sothatshowy...
Watched your video today because I am redoing my bathroom floor. To make the pattern for the flange I used a flattened coffee filter, was the perfect size to make my circle. Did the measurements the was you showed in the video. I scored the hole many times (I'm a 66 year old grandma) and got really tired. So I took my drill and put on my Milwaukee hole cutter, cut a hole at the inside edge of the pattern then I took my tin snips and it cut the hole perfectly. Love your videos and appreciate that you share your knowledge.
Thank you for your comment. Yes it is 1/2 inch cement board and I use a fiber glass tape on the joints. I tape and fill the seams in the length of the cement board before installing tile and I tape the cross joint seams while I am installing the tile.
The cross joint, (which is the width of the cement board) does not have a beveled edge.
To avoid creating a hump, I tape those while I am installing the tile. Check out my site, there is a link in the desciption below the video. Thanks again.
Rotozip... The time it saves and the ease of use is worth it
I'm not sure if you are still active on YT but this video is a lifesaver for me. Wish me luck tomorrow on my cement board install tomorrow!
monco123 Yes I'm active! Good luck and I'll be praying for you.
Nice job your a good teacher.
I appreciate that!
Well done, thanks for showing us this.
Lay the boards the long way- 3x5 and add a 3x1ft 5 in piece. Cut the factory edge off so the bevel is gone and make the 3x5 and 3 x 1ft 5in pieces 2 ft 6 in wide. Now you will have a 9 inch piece on the side, instead of 3 inches. Now cut 3- 3ft x 9inch pieces from the left over cement board. Center one of the pieces and then cut the other 2 pieces to fit.Doing it this way gives you larger pieces and also all the seams will be flush. You will still have 2 beveled seams on the 9 in pieces.
I ruined two hardi backer boards today trying to cut that hole. This will save me the need to buy another power tool I cant afford. Thank you
thank you a lot of great advice and work...still working on mine....not sure what to go with on final floor.....
I gotta tell ya. This is super helpful. I am doing my bathroom right now. That's 1/2 inch cement board right? You probably said that. How do you join the pieces of cement board once they are placed on the floor? I like your style too. Take your time and do it right.
You sir are an awesome planner. Great video.
I hope to get going on this on Saturday. Trying to do the math in my head. I think I should need two pieces then. I'll draw it out tomorrow to be sure . I'll let you know how it goes. Oh, just figured out that when they put the old linoleum down they put a piece of luan on the plywood. I am going to go with the 1/4 backer board on top. I imagine the luan is glued and nailed. The nails I can see. You see a problem with my plan? Thank you very much for the help!
You can go over that, but I personally would rip it out. I usually like to strip the floor all the way to the sub floor and start from there. If it was plywood or a birch I wouldn't hesitate. I don't trust luan at all. Just make sure you thin set and screw the cement board down. You shouldn't have any problems then! Anyway, if you go with 1/4 inch cement board then that usually comes in 4 x 4 sheets. That will help make your layout easier!
Plus the sub flooring is completely unlevel. I can't seem to get it level. So instead of whole tiles I was gonna do mosaic with porcelain tiles. Hopefully it works out. Thanks for the encouragement.
Yeah this is really going to help with the flange. The water pipe is going to be interesting too. I do have one other question if you don't mind. My 1/2 bath only measures 3 ft 3 inches wide and 6 ft 5 inches long. Since these boards only come in 5 by 3 could you tell me how I should lay them out??? Thanks!
We have a metal lip on the flange & getting measurements is proving to be tough. The durock needs to be under it to help support the toilet.
Ok so cut the cement board in the center of your cut out and then you will be able to slide the cement board under in two pieces.
Toilet flange is 7 inches. I use a old 7 1/4 circular saw blade as a template.
Toilet flanges are usually 7” just measure both points to the center of the hole then mark 3.5 from where those center lines intersect in a circle and your done works sweet every time
Great tips thanks for posting that
I just removed old tile from my laundry room. They had put it directly on the plywood subfloor. Can I put backer board on top even though there is some old thinset left on the plywood or do I need all new plywood? Thank you! love your videos
Yes just be sure its pretty consistent everywhere so you dont cause issues. If it is then foolow my instructions on installing cement board.
Thanks a lot great idea
Someone started my kitchen subfloor with cement board but didn't finish it..it's a few intimidating cuts but I'm not too nervous about trying to complete...thanks for the tips
That's great to hear!! Good luck
I appreciate this video.thanks.
Thx for the comment!
i paint the flange put the board on top that gives me the outtline
Hello. I want to remodel my bathroom. when I was watching videos of "how to install a backer board" i was surprised to see that now it is installed with mortar on plywood. was this the case in 2012 too? back on those days i remember the videos were to install the backer board directly on the floor boards without mortar. Am I right, or I just don't seem to remember correctly?
If you are installing backer board over a wood subfloor yes I would install thinset underneath it and then screw the top every 4 inches. But, I wouldn't even use cement board I would go to an anti fracture membrane like ditra
thanks for the great tips. I am about to buy a place and do a remodel. Can I use this stuff over the joists on the main floors, then cover it w/ wood or tile?
Steve McC This has to go over the main subfloor. It can't be installed as the subfloor. Hope this helps!
That is how I would do it. Sounds like a lot of work, but it's not. Let me know if I can help with anything else.Thank you for your question!!
Hi. What do you do when you need the whole durock sheet and one of the corner is cracked? It is for the wall tiling. Do I just tape and thinset over it when filling the seams or do I cut it out and use two boards in its place?
+Kinshun Mui You can tape and fill it with thin set and it will be plenty strong. If it is really bad then just cut it out.
Do you have to use thin set or can you use construction adhesive using a caulk gun
not sure what you mean?
Is there a reason you used 1/2 “ durorock on the floor and not 1/4 “
Yes! I don't like using 1/4 inch cement board. It always creates more problems like the floor not being flat. Anyway, I would recommend using ditra over cement board, it is by far more superior.
why would the hardie board crack when I try to countersink the screws?? any hints...
Well hardibacker is definitely not my favorite to install. Just hold the screws back from the edge a little more. If you can try to just make the screw flush that will be best.
Ok I'm gonna give it another try. when I get it finished I will send a pic to your Facebook, if I can find you
I'm trying to do this now! All I'm doing is waisting this expensive Durock board.
NO. Listen any damage done to the cement board ca easily be fixed with thinset and fiberglass mesh tape. Im sure you are doing just fine. Keep your chin up!