Glad you like them! Not sure what's on the cards next. I've got lots of sharpening toys to try, I just have to figure out something interesting to do with them
@@slingshotshooter7536 at 58hrc I'm assuming it's not high alloy so you can get away with pretty much anything to be honest. I think the stone choice in this instance would be influenced by how dull the knife is before you sharpen it and if you want to use Waterstones or electroplated etc. what type of knife is it? I'm fond of 1200 Atoma for quick refresh jobs personally
@@stroppystuff641 a shibazi f208 cleaver i have a king 400 and sun tiger 800, 1000/6k grit stones which i use to sharpen but what stone grit do i need to get for touchups ?
Showing what many already knew. I wonder why anyone would set out to discredit such a useful tool? It makes no sense. Thanks again for showing it as it is.
@@stroppystuff641 -- I'm old enough to be your father and have used a steel for over 40 years. In my experience, they're better than nothing at all, but not by much. I've never found them to give me any significant improvement. I wonder if the actual steel used is a factor here? Mine is ancient. Yours looks quite modern. I wonder if there has been advances in knife steeling technology? I've looked at the somewhat expensive ones made by F. Dick and thought "Somebody's paying over £100 a pop for a sharpening steel? They must be doing SOMETHING." But then F. Dick produce steels with different abrasion qualities -- they make a regular cut, a fine cut and a polishing steel. So presumably not all steels are created equal? Perhaps people who dismiss them just don't have a good steel? Also, the geometry on my kitchen knives is generally such that even when they're blunt as hell, they'll still cut food. I bet they'd also push cut paper. What they won't do is that very fine slicing. I suspect your steeled knife won't do that either.
@@stroppystuff641 dear sir what would be the best do all got for a cbn diamond stone if you could only have one and 2nd question is what if you could only have 2 cbn diamond stones what would be the two grits ?
Great content - many thx. I am a happy kitchen “steeler” my self. Remember reading something about edge retention not being the greatest after steeling but I guess less important since it only takes a few seconds to steel again.
Interesting demonstration thank you. Also, would you say steeling is not the best solution if you can strop an edge or touch up on a fine stone since it can bang up the edge at a micro or potentially macro level?
Yeah I personally wouldn't steel anything outside of the kitchen . This test was purely for fun. Strops won't work this fast and also leather is often not allowed in places which process food, someone who worked in a meat processing facility posted on my last video saying that leather strops are not allowed at his work
It’s funny that so many discredit steeling to get knives sharp when so many butchers and meat industry pros only use a steel to keep their knives sharp. I prefer to only use a steel on kitchen knives because it works so well to keep them sharp.
Interesting and useful information and I enjoy the few knife reviews you've done aswel. I remember watching your reviews of two UK designed knives called Hoo knives and they were very thorough and honest and the knives reviewed both had very negative elements, one was of a model called the V1 but the blade kept rebounding out of the handle frame so it was potentially dangerous and the other was the Hoos V2 that had a very Rockwell hardness test result of 56-58rhc which for M390 is terrible, and for its US analogs CTS204p, and CPM20CV that result would be very poor indeed, infact the Transparent Minds " Hinderer soft 20CV " gate affair came about because a 20CV blade came up with a 58.5rhc result and that was only one knife out of 10 I tested I believe, but I've now tried to find your old video reviews and now I can't find them, not a trace? Have you deleted them, and if so if you don't mind my asking, why did you delete them as they were honest and helpful and the integrity you showed was refreshing in this day and given that so many knife reviews are biased? I enjoy your channel very much but I can't understand why I can't find your old reviews on these Hoos knives and across the pond some folks are interested so your reviews are valued outside of the UK.
Thank you very much for the feedback! I haven't deleted those videos but I have hidden them. I've had a few complaints from viewers saying that I'm too negative and that my videos are less trustworthy if I'm always hating on things. I'm considering how to proceed going forwards, but I think my personality / sense of humour is too abrasive for some people, especially people not used to it. So I might have to lighten up my videos.
WOW I had no idea that this is possible. Thanks for busting the myths. Can 76HRC knife excessively dull honing steel (or even cut to it)? What's typical hardness of honing steel?
I was under the assumption that the honing steels were only low 60s so this was surprising to me too! I don't know what impact on the honing steels this hard knife might have, it will likely wear them both
I think it's amazing at how quick and effective that was. One thing I need to be skeptical of is running the knife over wood to show it is not influenced by a burr. I believe most of the sharpness here is from the burr which would have formed from the abrasive action of the steel rod, and running it against the wood cannot remove the short lived extreme sharpness of a non-folded burr, especially on higher hardness steel which would be able to resist the wood even more. Here is an example with a microscopic view of a modern steel knife edge after running it over wood after sharpening: ruclips.net/video/DX_39JMVUkk/видео.htmlsi=oeumOxufrnA_N_71&t=944
I thought Alex put this subject to rest? He definitely has the up close macro shots to demonstrates the results. They are very limited in use. I'd never use one personally. Ceramic yes. Your miles may vary. Cheers.
It absolutely doesn't matter what the resulting edge looks like at a macro level. If it cuts, it cuts. They're intended for use in industry which processes foods at high rates and they need a hygienic method of bringing back the edge, this absolutely works and this is proof.
Please show the microscopy. Interesting. I’d like to see the HRC test. Do you think it’s the lateral force? Also, why, in your estimation, does cutting into wood like that remove any burr that would be standing? A strong steel with a burr could still hold it after that. Curious indeed. In my own tests on 63HRC SG2 and S90V spyderco, the kitchen steel did not work but my ceramic did. The behind the edge, bevel angle, and rod information would be nice to be able to confirm. I personally have never he’s good results off a steel rod. Even using proper edge-leading technique like you have done. Nice vid, not exactly scientific but it does lead to other questions especially about the mechanics of the result you got. I’m too rigorous to believe my eyes… 😎👍🏼🙏🏼🖖🏻
The blade is from KKnives Switzerland so hardly something I need to prove hardness numbers on but I will upload a hardness test video anyway and it and stick the link in the description next week when I'm home. The description already has a link of a microscope shot of the edge after steeling.
@@stroppystuff641 as a bit about testing: 1) the hardness test may or may not be accurate, testing it before the demo doesn’t leave the question. 2) while difficult, getting a shot after each stroke, or pair of strokes, would show the changes the steeling does instead of inferred info. 3) lateral loads can cause a micro-bevel, which seems likely given the chemistry. 4) the strength of the steel could leave a tough burr, the microscopic shot you mention will be great at answering that question. A great demonstration that raises a lot of questions about the mechanics of the action!
@@adoseofdrewthanks for the feedback 👍the hardness testing is accurate. Both myself and Roman have tested it. Both our machines are regularly calibrated
Would you mind me trying to duplicate your results on my soon to be launched RUclips channel? I would be referencing you and not copying you word for word like someone else I follow did. Also I am using your diamond emulsion purchased through Gritomatic.
Hey man, you can do whatever you like. If you get inspiration from a very specific or niche idea in the video it would be nice to reference though :) Also thanks for the support! I hope you like the compound
What are you doing to my knives 😂😂
I won't do this to the Evolution. Probably
@@stroppystuff641 Dude, pls 😂
I enjoy the content on your channel a lot. I think you deserve much more views and subscribers.
I love these types of vids. Test and try everything!!! Thank you
Glad you like them! Not sure what's on the cards next. I've got lots of sharpening toys to try, I just have to figure out something interesting to do with them
@@stroppystuff641 for a 58 hrc knife what high grit stone grit do you recommend to do touchups on ?
@@slingshotshooter7536 at 58hrc I'm assuming it's not high alloy so you can get away with pretty much anything to be honest. I think the stone choice in this instance would be influenced by how dull the knife is before you sharpen it and if you want to use Waterstones or electroplated etc. what type of knife is it? I'm fond of 1200 Atoma for quick refresh jobs personally
@@stroppystuff641 a shibazi f208 cleaver
i have a king 400 and sun tiger 800, 1000/6k grit stones which i use to sharpen but what stone grit do i need to get for touchups ?
@@slingshotshooter7536 1k is fine for touch ups in my opinion :)
Showing what many already knew. I wonder why anyone would set out to discredit such a useful tool? It makes no sense. Thanks again for showing it as it is.
I feel like it's only the new gen guys which discredit them. Maybe they're too good for it etc. Seems to be cool to hate them
@@stroppystuff641 -- I'm old enough to be your father and have used a steel for over 40 years. In my experience, they're better than nothing at all, but not by much. I've never found them to give me any significant improvement. I wonder if the actual steel used is a factor here? Mine is ancient. Yours looks quite modern. I wonder if there has been advances in knife steeling technology? I've looked at the somewhat expensive ones made by F. Dick and thought "Somebody's paying over £100 a pop for a sharpening steel? They must be doing SOMETHING." But then F. Dick produce steels with different abrasion qualities -- they make a regular cut, a fine cut and a polishing steel. So presumably not all steels are created equal? Perhaps people who dismiss them just don't have a good steel?
Also, the geometry on my kitchen knives is generally such that even when they're blunt as hell, they'll still cut food. I bet they'd also push cut paper. What they won't do is that very fine slicing. I suspect your steeled knife won't do that either.
@@twatmunro mine was the cheapest on Amazon when I bought it in 2021, I think it's a Sharpal
@@stroppystuff641 dear sir what would be the best do all got for a cbn diamond stone if you could only have one and 2nd question is what if you could only have 2 cbn diamond stones what would be the two grits ?
Great content - many thx. I am a happy kitchen “steeler” my self. Remember reading something about edge retention not being the greatest after steeling but I guess less important since it only takes a few seconds to steel again.
Great stuff I'm loving the content.
Thanks :)
Let's be honest. His heat treat is so good you can sharpen it easily on almost anything.
That's true 😂
Interesting demonstration thank you. Also, would you say steeling is not the best solution if you can strop an edge or touch up on a fine stone since it can bang up the edge at a micro or potentially macro level?
Yeah I personally wouldn't steel anything outside of the kitchen . This test was purely for fun. Strops won't work this fast and also leather is often not allowed in places which process food, someone who worked in a meat processing facility posted on my last video saying that leather strops are not allowed at his work
It’s funny that so many discredit steeling to get knives sharp when so many butchers and meat industry pros only use a steel to keep their knives sharp. I prefer to only use a steel on kitchen knives because it works so well to keep them sharp.
Yeah absolutely I wouldn't use them outside of this kitchen either, this test was just for fun
I can’t understand why.
Interesting and useful information and I enjoy the few knife reviews you've done aswel.
I remember watching your reviews of two UK designed knives called Hoo knives and they were very thorough and honest and the knives reviewed both had very negative elements, one was of a model called the V1 but the blade kept rebounding out of the handle frame so it was potentially dangerous and the other was the Hoos V2 that had a very Rockwell hardness test result of 56-58rhc which for M390 is terrible, and for its US analogs CTS204p, and CPM20CV that result would be very poor indeed, infact the Transparent Minds " Hinderer soft 20CV " gate affair came about because a 20CV blade came up with a 58.5rhc result and that was only one knife out of 10 I tested I believe, but I've now tried to find your old video reviews and now I can't find them, not a trace? Have you deleted them, and if so if you don't mind my asking, why did you delete them as they were honest and helpful and the integrity you showed was refreshing in this day and given that so many knife reviews are biased?
I enjoy your channel very much but I can't understand why I can't find your old reviews on these Hoos knives and across the pond some folks are interested so your reviews are valued outside of the UK.
Thank you very much for the feedback! I haven't deleted those videos but I have hidden them.
I've had a few complaints from viewers saying that I'm too negative and that my videos are less trustworthy if I'm always hating on things.
I'm considering how to proceed going forwards, but I think my personality / sense of humour is too abrasive for some people, especially people not used to it. So I might have to lighten up my videos.
WOW I had no idea that this is possible. Thanks for busting the myths.
Can 76HRC knife excessively dull honing steel (or even cut to it)? What's typical hardness of honing steel?
I was under the assumption that the honing steels were only low 60s so this was surprising to me too! I don't know what impact on the honing steels this hard knife might have, it will likely wear them both
❤
I think it's amazing at how quick and effective that was.
One thing I need to be skeptical of is running the knife over wood to show it is not influenced by a burr. I believe most of the sharpness here is from the burr which would have formed from the abrasive action of the steel rod, and running it against the wood cannot remove the short lived extreme sharpness of a non-folded burr, especially on higher hardness steel which would be able to resist the wood even more. Here is an example with a microscopic view of a modern steel knife edge after running it over wood after sharpening: ruclips.net/video/DX_39JMVUkk/видео.htmlsi=oeumOxufrnA_N_71&t=944
Boom!
I thought Alex put this subject to rest? He definitely has the
up close macro shots to demonstrates the results. They
are very limited in use. I'd never use one personally.
Ceramic yes. Your miles may vary. Cheers.
It absolutely doesn't matter what the resulting edge looks like at a macro level. If it cuts, it cuts. They're intended for use in industry which processes foods at high rates and they need a hygienic method of bringing back the edge, this absolutely works and this is proof.
Fair enough. I cut a lot of straps, rope, and cardboard not sushi. Stoppy stuff works
better for me in those senereos.
@@JohnDoe-zb7dz completely agree. Steels for the food processing only. Otherwise everything else is better 👍
Please show the microscopy. Interesting. I’d like to see the HRC test.
Do you think it’s the lateral force? Also, why, in your estimation, does cutting into wood like that remove any burr that would be standing? A strong steel with a burr could still hold it after that.
Curious indeed. In my own tests on 63HRC SG2 and S90V spyderco, the kitchen steel did not work but my ceramic did. The behind the edge, bevel angle, and rod information would be nice to be able to confirm.
I personally have never he’s good results off a steel rod. Even using proper edge-leading technique like you have done.
Nice vid, not exactly scientific but it does lead to other questions especially about the mechanics of the result you got. I’m too rigorous to believe my eyes… 😎👍🏼🙏🏼🖖🏻
The blade is from KKnives Switzerland so hardly something I need to prove hardness numbers on but I will upload a hardness test video anyway and it and stick the link in the description next week when I'm home.
The description already has a link of a microscope shot of the edge after steeling.
@@stroppystuff641 as a bit about testing: 1) the hardness test may or may not be accurate, testing it before the demo doesn’t leave the question. 2) while difficult, getting a shot after each stroke, or pair of strokes, would show the changes the steeling does instead of inferred info. 3) lateral loads can cause a micro-bevel, which seems likely given the chemistry. 4) the strength of the steel could leave a tough burr, the microscopic shot you mention will be great at answering that question.
A great demonstration that raises a lot of questions about the mechanics of the action!
@@adoseofdrewthanks for the feedback 👍the hardness testing is accurate. Both myself and Roman have tested it. Both our machines are regularly calibrated
Try 70hrc Maxamet and Rex 121 next.
😂
Side note: with far less passes on Diamond it would be sharp.
Would you mind me trying to duplicate your results on my soon to be launched RUclips channel? I would be referencing you and not copying you word for word like someone else I follow did. Also I am using your diamond emulsion purchased through Gritomatic.
Hey man, you can do whatever you like. If you get inspiration from a very specific or niche idea in the video it would be nice to reference though :) Also thanks for the support! I hope you like the compound
This should shut up those people! If you kept going a little longer, I bet it would have gotten even sharper.
For sure. The edge was already trashed too and I micro beveled way to steep just to get it done fast