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I hate a choil.

I would think this completely depends on the grit of the final stone used. Also there are different paths to sharpness. If you are a more casual sharpener and your finest stone is 1200, then a six micron compound might be a decent choice. If you're after sharper blades then your finest stone might be 2000 or higher, and then six micron compound would probably be too coarse, as you show here. It's nearly impossible to put this test into contacts without you stating clearly what your final stone grade was. I still found this video extremely interesting. Recently for my first strop, off a Sharpal 1200 grit stone, I was at a loss for what diamond compound to buy and ended up with four micron. I won't say my knives are spectacular hair splitters but it's a big improvement over everything I have been using for the last few decades. I will probably make another strop and get some one micron now, because it's just kind of fun to see how sharp you can get a knife. It's honestly not that useful to me but it's fun.

isn't stropping unnecessary?

I find it that everyone has different preferences as to how to hold the knife due their body abilities. Like for example I prefer holding the 90° angle in my right hand, even without me being able to see the edge, I am able to feel the edge abraiding very easily. On the other hand the 45° knife hold where you are able to see your edge, I find it difficult to keep consistent angle on my edge, and at times, my knife tilts backwords and backside becomes more abraided.😂

Very excellent and helpful. I did purchase a couple of strops and spray. I’m new to this and am looking forward to learning more!

I need more videos on toothy edges. There is nothing that erks me more than when I sharpen a knife to hair shaving sharp, yet it just glides across rope. I keep doing this to my S30V, but not my CPM-3V knives. It’s like something about S30V gets too polished at the very edge and loses all of its teeth.

Do you have to work on the whole convex bevel each and every time you resharpen the knife? If so, it appears to be a lot of work at every resharpening...

Another paper cutter yaaaawn

Finally somebody who is speaking advanced sharpening/stropping language!

Im commenting on a year old video so you probably know this already. But i think the angle guides come off? I don't actually own one of these i was just looking onto getting one. Can you confirn?

It is a rare knife RUclipsr who uses modern peer reviewed scientific reality instead of either winging it their first or second time and passing it off as an instructional video; or sticking to the assertions of what grandpappy always used to say (long before 440C was considered THE knife super steel). On behalf of the sharpening/blade world I THANK you for making THE most concise but still absolutely thorough AND scientifically illustrated videos I have ever seen on RUclips about ANYTHING knife related (save for the King himself: Dr Larrin Thomas, but I feel like I deserve an honorary metallurgist degree for the research I ended up doing to understand everything; despite his best efforts to dumb it down for us mortals). This is a topic I’ve been tormented with for a while and couldn’t find anything remotely legitimate, I even bought digital microscopes (which weren’t nearly micro enough). You’ve covered every thought, idea and logical fallacy I’ve heard or had, and stopped me wasting further money on higher micron diamonds and pastes etc., (through this video and also the other one testing one micron back to 6, back to one, just gold). Absolutely flawless videos; and without the need for the flair to fill the absence of knowledge and expertise like most other RUclipsrs we have to sift through! Keep up the great work mate, if I could afford to donate I would, but unfortunately I wasted all my money on high micron diamond powders and pastes lol, hopefully this comment helps, if I stumble on any more tosser videos I’ll be sure to direct people here!

What would u advice for maintaining the edge before sharpening? Im using spyderco factory edge and when it gets duller im doing ceramid rod and 5/6micron strop then 1/2micron. Can not get shaving sharp without ceramic rod… Should i just skip the rod and 5/6 one and just strop on the 1/2 mircron stron for best result?

Amidst the tidal wave of highly polished, overproduced videos featuring experts with shiny teeth, this video stands out. It's unique in its simplicity, delivering clear, easy-to-understand results without all the usual fluff. The results I obtained were much better than those from other videos. Thank you very much!

I knew steel rod works from experience. I was amazed seeing what exactly it does when I bought a microscope. I was confused about a hoard of idiots willing to attack you screaming it does not work, it can't work, it must not work etc. like their life depended on it. Like their whole world view will crumble if it did work lol.

⁠​​⁠ Is the 4 maybe the one that you’d recommend for someone that wanted to implement something for maintenance in between full sharpenings? I use my knives a lot daily at work and I find myself needing to touch up way more than fully sharpen, and stropping over the years with basic cheaper compounds seem “ok”, but after hearing about your stuff I’ve wanted to give it a try. I really want to grab the correct compounds on my first go and get right to it. I’ve seen a lottttt of folks say that 1um is really a great all around way to go, but I’m still not 100% certain if that’s pertaining to right after sharpening, or for general maintenance to bring a knife back to sharp or toothy (which I prefer). I don’t do mirror edges at all, not to say I won’t in the future, but given the way I use my knives it just makes more sense to keep a nice working edge on them for now. So a final question I’d have is: if I normally sharpen to 600 grit (sometimes 1500 so you can throw a suggestion there as well if you’d like), which compound(s) would you recommend to not polish to a mirror, but maybe take that 600 grit, fairly toothy working edge up to that very next level? And then of course, what to use in between to get it back to that point when it’s showing signs of slowing down in performance, but not quite dulled. Thanks for taking the time if you see this, and very excited to use your products!! (For what it’s worth, these are KME Diamond stones I’m using so Im quite happy with the results I do get right off the stone, I’m just trying to get them a little bit better afterwards and again bring them back to life in between with something)

That stone design is begging for slight slip up and nasty cut.

Good work mate, by the way just try some polish steel(steel with no groves) that's even better

1:55 I see nothing maybe mark it to draw attention to location?

I liked you being honest. I instead chose to buy an EKA w12 Nordic, It's much better for in handle, sheath, steal and also price. Thank you

The rattling from the sheath is because of the knife being loose inside. And, it's Intentional. Here in Laponia we get low as -40-50c degrees and then be sure it will stuck inside of it, so you know. It was made with the help of soldiers and hunters who are experineced in Arctic climates. Most Sami knives, like the Leuku, also sits ä little loose where the steel meet the sheath. Hope it became clearer now. Be safe with knives

Just here for your voice. Well… knives, too I guess.

I can’t understand why.

What size microns do you recommend for general use? I currently run the spyderco medium, fine, then leather strip with wax compound. I’d like to switch to the spray/diamond by not sure where to start?

whcih waterstones would u recommend for an beginner?

Serious question: why basswood specifically? I think I have some pine lying around. Wouldn’t that be fine?

hmmm so i should go get a fine edge on my chisels and planes? nice, a good reason to train more :D

What grit stone do you finish with before stropping

Even though Spyderco doesn't give grit or micron ratings to their stones, according to the info on the Grand Unified Grit Chart, the Spyderco UF stone is approximately 3 microns. So, I can see how taking a step backwards in the progression from 3 to 6 microns would be detrimental to the apex's sharpness in a push cut Bess test, and why the 1 micron compound was beneficial. Good testing methodology. However, the numbers tell the tale.

Has this delica been reprofiled or is it just an older model? Shape looks really flat compared to mine, but it also is missing some markings like the spyderco logo

just what I wanted thank you!

If you don’t like bark river, who do you like for this type of knife?

I hate to say it, but I had a 3/2 metallic stone from Poltova and had a large piece of cbn on one side that tore up one of my knives. I couldn't get rid of it completely, so i simply flipped the stone over and it was fine. Maybe one day I'll figure out how to remove it...

Awesome video! That's pretty much now I use Atoma plates except I'm too lazy/cheap to use a stone holder. I keep the knife in my right hand and use the 'stone' on a bit of shelf liner on the edge of a Boos block. Really though it would be handy to have something higher. FWIW, I have some of your 9 micron stuff on the way now!

I have at least a half dozen strops. Most of them are nicer ones that were kind of expensive including a kangaroo-over-micarta one from a custom knife maker. But I have a Beavercraft one too and kind of like it. It's not amazing but the paddle type works okay if you rest the far end on a table while holding the handle end. The application I bought it for was to leave in my work knife roll that I leave at work. Mostly the guys there are pretty solid but I don't tempt fate by leaving a thousand bucks worth of knives and sharpening gear laying around! The Beavercraft is good enough to strop the house knives but not so spendy I'll be devastated if it walks off.

Great video! I'm a chef and an avid knife nerd that seems to be in the minority but I like a highly polished edge for virtually everything. My own knives get sharpened to a 10k finish on a Naniwa Chocera 10,000 grit and stropped with 1/8 micron CBN on 'roo leather.

Fascinating! Thanks. I have some Stroppy Stuff 9 on the way but I plan to use it to deburr off of diamond plates (400 Atoma > 1200 Atoma > strop).

Great stuff! As a professional chef I do take issue with a couple of things. I don't find ceramic hones to be all that fragile, but if you do find yourself breaking them then try a DMT Ceramic hone. It's aluminum with a layer of ceramic over it. In feel and effect it's pretty much like any other ceramic but it's impossible to break in normal use. My issue with ridged steel hones is that all my knives are Japanese with a minimum hardness of 62-ish hrc; these really end to chip out if steeled on a ribbed steel rod. IMO, the best tools for a working chef are a ceramic hone and a leather strop...ideally doped with Stroppy Stuff, of course.😘🔥🙌

I love my DC4, very strange that you had such a poor experience with them. Never had issues with the diamond distribution, the ceramic side works great with a bit of water, the sheath holds the stone just fine, and I like stropping on the sheath. Different strokes for different folks but had I seen this video before buying one I would have missed out on a good product. Maybe it's a Brexit thing and you're getting the bad ones in the UK.

Looks more like a lousy job of sharpening than a lousy knife. And a free one at that, what a jerk!

Interested in making me a set for my S1x?

Ive been really disappointed with Hogue tbh, probably the worst thing about them and the Deka in particular is that they are really dangerous to keep in your left pocket if you use the clip. Right pocket seems okay, but in the left they tend to partially open, I clipped off a piece of my ring finger a while back because of it. Not a huge fan of their blade shapes, thickness or heat treatment either tbh.

I did actually read that post on steeling a while back, and he does go into details on why and how it works. Iirc it causes adhesive wear, not abrasive. Functionally for a knife user its not different enough to notice, but I dont think its a myth that a straight steel rod doesnt abrade. But yes, everything has its place, just like knives that are "dishwasher safe". They are, just not your dishwasher, they are "safe" for industrial dishwashers but the ones we have at home will mess it up for sure.

Toothy edges are crutches for people who lack good sharpening skills. Rarely have found real use cases for toothy edges other than cutting ropes and sinew with a relatively dull edge.

When I learned sharpening I begun stropping with cerium oxide glass polishing paste, the average particle size was about 3-4 microns and got the sharpest edges, couldn't get any sharper until I got .5um diamond compound, the only way to measure sharpness I used was splitting hairs and i was already whittling hair with the cerium oxide stropping. I been using denim strops to remove micro burs and then thick Kraft paper glued onto a piece of flat wood loaded with polishing compound, I tried to use leather but I didn't liked it because I noticed it was too easy to end up rounding up the edge.

If I wanted only 1 strop compound which micron would you go with. I Work up to a 1200 grit diamond stone and finish on a Spyderco fine ceramic.

If I wanted only 1 strop compound which micron would you go with. I Work up to a 1200 grit diamond stone and finish on a Spyderco fine ceramic.

I love the profile and size of this knife, but the pinned construction and pivot kinda kill it for me. I’m glad I didn’t pick one up a few months ago when I had the hots for it.

thank you very much for that little bit of information. up until right now i couldnt for the life of me figure out why there isnt any type of choil... on spydercos. this is one more thing that puts spyderco in a league of their own when it comes to what makes a knife the best edc hands down. i will not put a choil on my manix 2!! thank you StroppyStuff. just landed one more sub...

Does this sharpener work for magnacut blades?

Great suggestion.