Damn good job Jeremy! I'm doing the exact same job right now and stopped at the lower control arm. i was just doing the tie rod ends but saw the lower control arm bushings weren't as great as I originally thought and since keeping the truck decided to just do it all. $1200 for upper/lower control arms with balls & bushings installed, pitman arm, idler arm, disk rotor & pads, and shocks all around. I've never dealt with a torsion bar before so was hesitant on how to tackle it. Good move not using heat on the control arm. As you mentioned searching showed everything but a 2001 F150 4x4 with torsion bar (same as 1999 apparently) so this is very much appreciated! Thanx Again... :-)
wow i got upper and lower control arm for one side, two wheel bearings, a pitman arm, steering link, steering box for 1200. no shocks, no brakes, no passenger side control arms, no idler, how times have changed...
This is exactly what I needed to see to feel confident in completing this task. I have already replaced the upper control arms, along with struts, tie rods, wheel hubs, sway bar connector links, but I stopped at the lower control arms because I couldn’t figure out the torsion bar conundrum. Thanks for making this video!
i had a sneaking suspicion this would be easier and after watching you do it i am convinced. i did it once the hard way, and now have to do it it again, i will be doing it the easy way
You and most of the population think that way. But it can be quite satisfying to fix an older vehicle yourself and keep it on the road, it’s also a fraction of the cost of a new rig. I’m the type of guy that wants to buy your old truck when you get a new one. 😉
I'll echo the very positive comments written so far. As Jeremy states in this video, if you are watching this video, you are either in the planning phase of doing this work or are in the middle of it and are tearing your hair out, trying to figure out how to get that torsion bar out of the lower control arm. To further complicate this process, Ford no longer makes these torsion bars, so the option of going "all new" is NOT an option. I am in the planning phase and am grateful for Jeremy's detailed description of how to get the torsion bar out. It just going to make the job go that much more smoothly.
Thanks for the positive comment. Helping people with things that I struggled with is exactly why I do it. I use RUclips a lot and want to give back in my small way.
Relieving it the way you did obviously worked just fine. However, since the old lower A-arm was "sacrificial" anyway you could have used heat on it. You would want to focus the heat on it rather than the torsion bar anyway (you'd want the A-arm socket to expand, not the torsion bar, which would be counter productive) I would think by focusing the heat on the A-arm you would not endanger the temper of the torsion bar. Earlier today I tried this disassembly for the first time (and I hadn't sprayed it w/penetrating oil for a week prior) Mine like yours would not budge. I'm hoping to save both the torsion bar and the lower A-arm (intended to just replace bushings). Probably won't be able to save the lower A-arm, but we'll see. Thanks for the video.
I just did mine this past weekend and you must be a god or a sadist. It probably took me at least a solid 2+ hours or more per side just to get the arm ball joint out of the steering knuckle and the new one back in. Ford could have spared an extra half inch of clearance to not make it so painful.
Thanks for posting this video. It’s still the only one I can find for this truck. I do have one question. On the front part of the frame there are two rubber plugs covering access to the lower control arm bolt. How did you remove those without tearing them? Thanks again for taking the time to film and upload the video.
I slowly pried them out with a small flat head screw driver. Start on one side and work your way around until it pops out. They’re in there good and mine got a little beat up but were still functional.
I marked the torsion key bolt before I removed it. That allowed me to get it close when I installed it. Then I measured from the ground to a fixed point on the truck to make sure the right and left sides were the same height.
They just slide in to the new ones. The torsion bars have some forward and backwards movement when their loose but stay tight in place once you torque them back up.
I cleaned my ends off with a wire brush then sprayed on some WD40 to lube them back up to slide into the arm and the torsion key easier. As Jeremy said earlier, once you torque them back down, they stay in place just fine.
Hi, 99 Ford expedition 4wd 5.4L here. Is there a tool to just push the lower control arm bushings out and the new ones in? I bought the four bushings (Moog) in Amazon, but nobody wants to replace them. They tell me to buy the lower control arms instead. I really need to fix it. It's not taking alignment, and my new tires with now 5000 miles need to be replaced soon. * I have to add, the ball joints are new, only 40K miles.
Yes there’s a way to do that. I haven’t ever needed to but I know people that have. Maybe talk to the auto part store and see if they have a tool to rent.
a Mapp gas torch to put some heat into the control arm side, (not too hot) and then an air hammer with a barrel bit on the torsional bar end would push that right out.
All that work involved, why not just replace the bushings and ball joint (using a press tool) and call it a day?! (Heat, spray, beg, hammer, repeat and 2weeks later cut it off...) Seems like a shit ton of work
@@themechanick9071 I just replaced bushings on mine. With proper tools it is easy! Used a porta press, placed between the bushings, to press em out. And used a threaded rod with washers and 2 nuts to drive em in. Very easy! Btw my truck is a rust bucket
@@bubbles8491 for me personally, I would rather pay $250 for the preassembled arm. To get these done at a shop it's $400.. At least near me, took it to 3 different shops. My car is from the south. hardly any rust. the control arm was rusted to the control arm for me. Used my impact on a press, and couldnt get it off. took a 5 lb sledge and my buddy went to town on it... Couldnt get it off, so i just left it.
Damn good job Jeremy! I'm doing the exact same job right now and stopped at the lower control arm. i was just doing the tie rod ends but saw the lower control arm bushings weren't as great as I originally thought and since keeping the truck decided to just do it all. $1200 for upper/lower control arms with balls & bushings installed, pitman arm, idler arm, disk rotor & pads, and shocks all around. I've never dealt with a torsion bar before so was hesitant on how to tackle it. Good move not using heat on the control arm. As you mentioned searching showed everything but a 2001 F150 4x4 with torsion bar (same as 1999 apparently) so this is very much appreciated! Thanx Again... :-)
Thanks, glad it helped.
Thank you for the video
wow i got upper and lower control arm for one side, two wheel bearings, a pitman arm, steering link, steering box for 1200. no shocks, no brakes, no passenger side control arms, no idler, how times have changed...
@@mtnmosin2740 Wow.. prices are climbing!
This is exactly what I needed to see to feel confident in completing this task. I have already replaced the upper control arms, along with struts, tie rods, wheel hubs, sway bar connector links, but I stopped at the lower control arms because I couldn’t figure out the torsion bar conundrum. Thanks for making this video!
No problem
i had a sneaking suspicion this would be easier and after watching you do it i am convinced. i did it once the hard way, and now have to do it it again, i will be doing it the easy way
Glad you found it helpful!
Great video! Very clear and easy to follow. I like the way you handled the trouble areas.
Thanks.
My man thanks for finding the need and filling it that's what's up
No problem.
Awesome video, your trick really helped me get some new ideas as I'm about to attempt this job in a couple weeks!
Glad it helped
thanks for posting this bro. good idea for not adding the heat to the torsional bar.
Thanks.
You and most of the population think that way. But it can be quite satisfying to fix an older vehicle yourself and keep it on the road, it’s also a fraction of the cost of a new rig. I’m the type of guy that wants to buy your old truck when you get a new one. 😉
I'll echo the very positive comments written so far. As Jeremy states in this video, if you are watching this video, you are either in the planning phase of doing this work or are in the middle of it and are tearing your hair out, trying to figure out how to get that torsion bar out of the lower control arm.
To further complicate this process, Ford no longer makes these torsion bars, so the option of going "all new" is NOT an option.
I am in the planning phase and am grateful for Jeremy's detailed description of how to get the torsion bar out. It just going to make the job go that much more smoothly.
Thanks for the positive comment. Helping people with things that I struggled with is exactly why I do it. I use RUclips a lot and want to give back in my small way.
Relieving it the way you did obviously worked just fine. However, since the old lower A-arm was "sacrificial" anyway you could have used heat on it. You would want to focus the heat on it rather than the torsion bar anyway (you'd want the A-arm socket to expand, not the torsion bar, which would be counter productive) I would think by focusing the heat on the A-arm you would not endanger the temper of the torsion bar. Earlier today I tried this disassembly for the first time (and I hadn't sprayed it w/penetrating oil for a week prior) Mine like yours would not budge. I'm hoping to save both the torsion bar and the lower A-arm (intended to just replace bushings). Probably won't be able to save the lower A-arm, but we'll see. Thanks for the video.
Thanks
I just did mine this past weekend and you must be a god or a sadist. It probably took me at least a solid 2+ hours or more per side just to get the arm ball joint out of the steering knuckle and the new one back in. Ford could have spared an extra half inch of clearance to not make it so painful.
Thanks for posting this video. It’s still the only one I can find for this truck. I do have one question. On the front part of the frame there are two rubber plugs covering access to the lower control arm bolt. How did you remove those without tearing them? Thanks again for taking the time to film and upload the video.
I slowly pried them out with a small flat head screw driver. Start on one side and work your way around until it pops out. They’re in there good and mine got a little beat up but were still functional.
@@jeremydiy thank you. I’ll keep working them.
Nice Video !! Those tricks will help !!
LOVED YOUR VIDEO AS I NEED TO CHANGE MINE NOW DAYS ITS A 1999 FORD F-150 4 wheel drive stndard cab
Good job buddy
Needed to know how to put it all back together and how to reset ur tension on the torsion bar and how u got it back to where u have the torsion key
I marked the torsion key bolt before I removed it. That allowed me to get it close when I installed it. Then I measured from the ground to a fixed point on the truck to make sure the right and left sides were the same height.
How did you put the torsion bar back in to the new lower control arm?
They just slide in to the new ones. The torsion bars have some forward and backwards movement when their loose but stay tight in place once you torque them back up.
I cleaned my ends off with a wire brush then sprayed on some WD40 to lube them back up to slide into the arm and the torsion key easier. As Jeremy said earlier, once you torque them back down, they stay in place just fine.
What size socket did you use to get the bolts out on the control arm? I don’t think you went over that but I could have missed it.
I don’t remember, sorry.
Hi, 99 Ford expedition 4wd 5.4L here. Is there a tool to just push the lower control arm bushings out and the new ones in? I bought the four bushings (Moog) in Amazon, but nobody wants to replace them. They tell me to buy the lower control arms instead. I really need to fix it. It's not taking alignment, and my new tires with now 5000 miles need to be replaced soon.
* I have to add, the ball joints are new, only 40K miles.
Yes there’s a way to do that. I haven’t ever needed to but I know people that have. Maybe talk to the auto part store and see if they have a tool to rent.
Awesome video thank u
👍
a Mapp gas torch to put some heat into the control arm side, (not too hot) and then an air hammer with a barrel bit on the torsional bar end would push that right out.
What puller is that that you used for the torsion bars where did you get it
Just a normal two jaw puller. Any auto parts place should have them.
@@jeremydiy I got the job done. Used an air hammer to push out the arms haha
👍
you wont hurt a torsion bar with a propane torch....
All that work involved, why not just replace the bushings and ball joint (using a press tool) and call it a day?! (Heat, spray, beg, hammer, repeat and 2weeks later cut it off...) Seems like a shit ton of work
getting the lower control arms' bushings off are tough... you're already saving money, why not pay a bit more to make the job easier?!
@@themechanick9071 I just replaced bushings on mine. With proper tools it is easy! Used a porta press, placed between the bushings, to press em out. And used a threaded rod with washers and 2 nuts to drive em in. Very easy! Btw my truck is a rust bucket
@@bubbles8491 for me personally, I would rather pay $250 for the preassembled arm. To get these done at a shop it's $400.. At least near me, took it to 3 different shops. My car is from the south. hardly any rust. the control arm was rusted to the control arm for me. Used my impact on a press, and couldnt get it off. took a 5 lb sledge and my buddy went to town on it... Couldnt get it off, so i just left it.
well in my case the shock mount is broke, this part must be replaced. no point in new bushings and ball joint...
@@mtnmosin2740 you found out the the "shock mount" broke 2 fAkin years later LAD?!