Why You May NOT Want To FERTILIZE Your Lawn In Early Spring
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- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
- Many people think that the lawn needs fertilizer right after winter? Is that true?
Depending on your fall program for a cool season lawn, you should not need a heavy dose of fertilizer in the early spring and in most cases it will do nothing except cause excessive top growth. Sure, some new lawns or lawns that have been neglected for a long time may respond appropriately to a dose in the early spring but otherwise liquid fertilizer is a great option to help you feed the lawn without having to mow every day from too much growth.
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Good video. Do you have anything on controlling moss? I dethatched and reseeded in fall. It looked great but now come spring, I have a bunch of moss. I live about 20 miles north of Seattle.
I have 3 areas of lawn, the front which I pay most attention too, a big side yard which is in pretty good shape and my backyard, which is not.
The back yard is about the same size as yours but I have a large dog and since it's somewhat patchy grass, I now have big areas of mud as the backyard doesn't drain well and after all our snowmelt it's kind of a disaster. I'm not interested in a full renovation but I'm wondering about an overseed, specifically if the seed will grow. I have a riding mower, a pull behind spreader and a detached. I live in northern Illinois and asking for your advice.
Last year that grass was lush, but I don't see that happening this year without some drastic action...
Totally agree. Light app, slow release, or no fertilizer for the spring if you already did stuff in fall. Liquids are an awesome option if you're willing to spray. Great thumbnail too btw 👌
How about for those of us who did a lawn reno and was spoon feeding all fall? From my understanding is that I should continue to spoon feed Urea in the Spring.
@@tite732 that's a more unique scenario. Wait till you get at least 1 or 2 mows in and then spoon feed lightly with a liquid like he showed, but no need to push it too hard. It will continue to thicken and fill in on its own. If top growth gets too much, back off feedings or lower N rates.
I've been using about a strong half ap of Scott's Starter Fert, both at the end of Fall and start of Spring. Steady light Milo throughout the rest of the mowing season, maybe a full app before a big rain occasionally. As well as, hit the micronutrients and Hydretain right before Summer drought and have been seeing steady improvements without having crazy mowing duty. If it's super dry, I might do 2 apps of Hydretain. Probably run the sprinkler 2-5 times during the peak of Summer and have very little dormancy issues. The starter fert seems to green things up earlier in the year and provide heartier turf before the heat of Summer. Mostly fine Fescue with some KBG.
That is a great program. Well done.
Location?
Agree if you laid down some fertilizer in the fall, especially late fall. I use my "crack" fertilizer in the fall up to mid November (46-0-0) and the grass stays a nice green color throughout the winter and pops during spring up. The grass is already a dark green and needs to be cut. Instead of an early spring fertilizer application, I spray micronutrients once a week using Kelp4Less Extreme blend (Humic, Ammino and Fulvic acids) to help strengthen the lawn and throughout the summer months. I do the heavy fertilizing in the fall months from September to mid November. I do one fertilizer application using Sunniland Professional Fertilizer (24-0-11) 50% slow release fertilizer just before the hot summer months. If I need/want greener grass, I just spray some iron in the summer months.
Absolutely correct. Any university will confirm for c3 / cool season turf and a study of genetics too. There can be exceptions AND lower rate ap on newly seeded areas.
I like to throw down a granular with pre-em in spring. Was thinking about using a 0-0-7 product this year. Try to save some gas from the excessive mowing…
Great Video, I swear that frequently mowing off the tips of grass (cool season turf) works amazing at getting grass jumping. I have cut my lawn with manual reel mower and Allett and after 3 cuts in the last 2 weeks have been amazing. No ferts applied but looking fantastic.
I found this out this year. For some reason I seemed to have a lot of debris in my lawn left over from winter. Small sticks, hay from fall decorations, leaves. So I put on the bag and cleaned it up. I inevitability cut about 1/8 inch off the top of the the blade. It looked like green sawdust in my bag. it really woke up the lawn noticeably compared to neighbors.
I fertilize my lawn about 4 times a year with fertilizers formulated to help the grass through the stresses during those specific times. I don't fertilize my lawn very often and mine is 3 times greener and healthier than my neighbors fertilizing every few weeks, I force deeper roots and let it self-feed most of the time.
What fertilizer do you use?
Im planning to use 12-12-12 this spring. Not huge dose of Nitrogen so hopefully growth wont be extreme.
I know the spring has arrived when your video shows up in my feed ;) let’s get the mowers ready. Hello from Boston, good to see ya Ryan 👍🏻
Killed my lawn last year and watching it come out of dormancy now... Not as fast as some neighbors but hopefully soon will be looking good and probably hit with some light fertilizer in the next week to help along.
I never fertilize in early spring. Let the lawn develop by surviving on the soil and adapting to stress. Feed it late spring to put back some of the nutrients lost to growing.
Exactly right 👍
Anderson's DG products are small granular products that you can spread in the spring in light amounts.
I put fertilizer down a few weeks ago. And omg my grass is growing so fast. I need to mow every few days.
I am soooo looking forward to using the SLS and Grow-Orr this spring Ryan 💪👌👍😎
Awesome video Ryan! I am going to be leveling and overseeing my PRG lawn in a couple of weeks. Going to need some starter fert so it can recover. Should be fun.
Great video Ryan. I just applied Scotts turf builder lawn food as part of my annual routine. I will keep this in mind for next year. Thank you.
Man, I forgot about Keystone....such a good beer!
Impressive idea,very flourish after care.Thanks for your ideas,people will have a beautiful lawn full of green accordingly, I like you video.
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Even though I did a Fall overseeding program, I'm still going to start with 1/2 lb of Nitrogen this Spring. My lawn needs to thicken up before summer.
I agree, feed her. I like to get the granular fert down early so the excessive growth has run its course before the heat kicks in. This is a sales pitch for liquid fert.
@@briano9879 you're not wrong about it being a sales pitch, but his advice is solid nonetheless. Pushing heavy nitrogen in spring means more upward growth and less downward. I have no desire to water and mow a bunch during spring and prefer to skip the fungus issues that can be encouraged with heavy spring fertilizer.
@@michaellewis6569 I agree his advice is for the most part solid, good channel with good intentions. If he was advocating against heavy apps of N in the early spring then I would also agree. But it sounds like he is saying no apps of N until late spring, that's what I disagree with. What's to say nature doesn't skip late spring and go straight to raging heat and drought? I think a lot of people go heavy early to get their N down before St. Patrick's Day. The traditional thought is that applying N after St. Patricks Day would open you up to fungal issues but now NC State has a study that says otherwise. I think Paul Outlawn and Pete are picking up on that as well. Last year I did my celebratory early spring dose of N and then applied a light dose of 5-0-20 every 6 weeks when the heat picked up in June. I applied no fungicide, with TTTF in Georgia, and had very little fungal issues. That being said I'm no longer a believer that N contributes to fungus as much as people think it does, or at least it didn't for me last year. If anything those little doses may have helped to strengthen the resistance. I fert early and often but never in excess. I only brought up fungal issues because you mentioned it above, I realize Ryan didn't have an opinion on that.
Go very heavy in the fall and even early winter and you won't have any problems in the spring. Memorial day, the 4th, labor day is all you need. Spring is more about amending and weed control.
Great, I already laid mine down 2 weeks ago.
Overseeded last fall . where I doubled the granular on driveway edges its stayed beautiful green all winter . Others areas not so much. I actually had to mow those areas 2 times already to 3 " TTf. The other areas are wakening but not taking off as i feel it should . So I plan to hit those areas with about 1/4 lb liquid 20/0/0.. P is already very high and K is high . First time I'm trying the liquid . I'll keep it light to see how it responds . 5000k lawn . I need to be careful not to hit those thick green areas with Nitro , just yet .
Appreciate the info! I can't wait to move to the desert and not have a lawn anymore. It's such a pain to care for, and I'm allergic to grass.
How bout his neighbor having weeds and dandies in the lawn next to his perfect lawn lol
My Dude! Always updating, Thanks.
LOL great this video comes out the day after I treated my lawn..
Just get your mowing shoes on 🙂
Yupp me too just threw down weed and feed, only have about 1200 foot lawn.
So Ryan, when are you going to approach Folgers about being a channel sponsor so you can spin those multipurpose canisters around! Haha.
Couldn't agree more with everything you said.
Oh man I saw your neighbors lawn full of Dandy lions, how are you stopping that from hitting your lawn?
Been doing 10-10-10 on March 10 forever.
Fall fert seems to lead to horrible snow mold in my area. Been scratching my head trying to get a handle on this. Fungicide isnt really an option i have 28,000sqft and cant justify the cost
It needs to be early fall. Did you use high K?
Ryan heavily fertilizes his follower count every spring.
Lol. I was thinking the same thing, but you said it much better than I would have.
What do you think about Scott's Weed & Feed in early spring?? Thanks for the videos!!
Very helpful! Thank you, Ryan! 👍
What do you mean by half a pound of nitrogen, I mean for how many square meters ?
I've always fertilized in early spring mostly to get down a pre-emergent to prevent crabgrass. How do I deal with the crabgrass issue if I don't fertilize in early spring?
You can get pre-emergent without fertilizer in it
Great info Ryan. Thanks
the lesco 30-0-5 says that its a weed control, Scott’s 30-0-4 also say it is. but the sta green is a 29-0-5 says all purpose fertilizer and doesn’t advertise it as weed control. does the variation of number really take away its ability to control weeds? im asking because the price difference is insane
The numbers are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium for the product so that won't have anything to do with weed control itself. You would have to look at the active ingredient of the weed control and percentage of that in those products to see if there's a difference.
@@ryanknorrlawncare ahh okay im new to this and i didnt consider there being anything else in them besides those three things, thanks for the help i been using scotts and they went up so im gonna try something else
still frozen 3 inches down here, dying to dethatch and over seed
I'm in CR iowa about when should I dethatch, aerate and over seed? About April 1st? No fall or spring pre-emergent.
Once the grass starts actively growing again
Another great video brother 👍
Should you put any fertilizer down before the heat of summer to help grass through it or just wait to do it in the fall? I always fertilizer in three applications staring in the fall.
Is it safe to apply root Hume and micronutrients by simple solution in early spring if I fertilized in last fall?
Just received some of your products. No idea what I’m doing so wish me luck 😂
You can do it!
I've already laid down my first application of Milorganite a week ago. I fertilize several times a year and it works for me.
Ryan, I've been a subscriber for a while now and I've not seen you discuss a truly holistic organic lawn regime. Meaning, adding beneficial microbes to the soil, compost for microbial life, biochar as an soil amendment/top dressing to build the soil structure. From my research, healthy turf grasses and soil when supplied with quality compost has everything the grass plant needs to develop a deep root systems, obtain all vital nutrients from the soil and reduce water requirements. Thoughts...Dr. Elaine Ingham and many other soil food web advocates.
I don't think I can go back to granular after doing a liquid program for a whole season. Instant gratification and I like being able to tank mix my own potions.
I'm very interested in the silicon product on lawnsupply. I've read there's more benefit than just cut quality. Do you have a video in the works for that?
Great video! How do you like your Scott's Elite spreader? I've thought about getting one but wasnt sure how good it was
I have another situation. Last season I did a good job of feeding the lawn: regular and late autumn fertilizer along with other goodies such as sea kelp, humic acid, etc. Normally under these circumstances I'd fertilizer light in the Spring.
However last autumn we had a terrible grass germination season. I only had a 3 week period between 100 degree days and soil temps dropping below 55 degrees. 2 years ago I attempted to kill off my mutt lawn and replace with an 80% KGB and a 20% PR blend however some areas of ugly Kentucky 31 survived all over the lawn. I spent hours hand picking out the spots of Kentucky 31 and then reseeding with my KGB/PR blend. Due to the short growing season I still have some holes in my lawn that the KGB/PR didn't have time to fill in.
Question: should I hit the lawn with heavy nitrogen (3/4 pound) to promote the KGB rhizomes to fill in the holes? Or just seed, peet moss, starter fert and daily water?
That's a tough one. Bluegrass is not extremely aggressive (compared to a warm season turf like bermuda) so it's still going to take months to fill things in. check out my video from last week on seeding vs pre-emergent for some more thoughts on that.
I’m planning on dethaching, aerating, and over seeding. Should I be using any fertilizer after this process is complete?
So I have a question about using Torocity as compared to Tenacity ? Is there a difference ?
Newer sod about 10 months old. Can I seed and fertilize at that same time?
lime
Would you go slightly heavier on the early Spring fertilizer if it was a KBG lawn? KBG has a naturally slow spring start. That's the only thing I hate about my KBG. While everyone's weeds are looking green and stellar, the KBG looks like it never got the memo that it's GO TIME! 😂
That's more about temperature than anything else. Foliar app may help jump start things, but I would do heavy granular feed or you'll be mowing extra often in April and May.
Still have two feet of snow
Fun
Can your soluble fertilizers be mixed and sprayed via a hose end sprayer or can they only be used via a tank/backpack sprayer?
You are already mixing water with the soluble, hose end sprayer adds more water therefore diluting your mix even more. Hope that helps.
I guess it depends on where you live. In zone 8a in the it’s important to fertilize around early march for tall fescue. It will bring it from dormant to dark green.
Is that a Ventrack sweatshirt you are wearing? Did you buy one for the property?
If you had to pick just one, would you repair bare spots in the spring or apply crabgrass preventer? I have minimal crabgrass and the little i do are more right next to the street.
ruclips.net/video/J2PLTQXWp9g/видео.html
Previous years I just overseeded with perennial rye. This season I switched it up and went with a mixture of fine fescue, tall fescue and KBG. I did this because some of the PRG was starting to make it through our Texas summer here in DFW. I was hoping the fine fescue would make it in the shade better than the PRG. I doubt the KGB will since it has always died by mid June.
I scarified off all my St. Augustine and didn’t use any pre emergent last fall. I have more poa annua than I would like. I have kept from using any herbicides and plan on not using anything till fall.
Would Tenacity be my best choice for poa next year? I’m sure I will need to overseeded come late September or early October.
I’ve used Tenacity with good success to kill Poa in my KBG by Chicago
Great video…I’m focusing mainly on my potassium levels. I heard liquid SOP is not going to change my K levels like a granular would. I prefer liquid applications over granular. I was wondering if you know if this is true or not?
You're feeding the leaf of the plant and while some of that would be taken up by the roots it's not like making an application to change the soil levels themselves. The nice thing about liquid is that since you are feeding directly, it can help to avoid deficiencies that soil has or is showing on a test.
How do you get dog spots out of lawn?
I just applied pre-emergent weed control (I'm 1 hr from Philadelphia) how soon can I add fertilizer? I just bought this house and I'm not sure what the old owner applied to the lawn last year. Thank you in advance
I live in NW Indiana. My lawn needs to be overseeded but I also feel it needs to have regular fertilizer applied besides starter fertilizer for the overseeding. What should I do??? Any assistance you can offer would be greatly appreciated! Thank you.
What about weed and feed
In the case of overseeding in the spring, if you use the Scotts for seedling and it only lasts 2-4 weeks, is there another Scotts weed control option you can apply at that point?
I overseeded last year in fall and also did a partial( dig out some trivialis spots) so I fertilized quit a bit and good . Becasue it was late in fall, the new grass came out but stayed very small due to low temperature till now. It survived well and I think it will kick in now naturally. Do you think that using some humic acid and soil activators would be better then a fertilizer? I was thinking abouti HUMIC DG or similar?
Goooood evening!
When I overseed in the fall, how soon after planting the new seeds before I can fertilize for the next season? I don't want to burn the new growth
Small doses right away would be fine. You shouldn't ever burn anything unless you're using a rate that's too high and it doesn't get watered in.
@@ryanknorrlawncare thanks
What hoodie is that, with the mower and flag?
It's a Ventrac -- www.ventrac.com/
I think a soil sample is need to make this kind of determination although I do agree not to use a full pound of nitrogen per thousand early in the year.
Being in California and in a transition zone, I have TTTF/KBG and cut year round. The winters here are mild, so these suggestions wouldn’t apply to me, correct?
Although you're still cutting the weather should warm up enough spring wise that there's still somewhat of a spring flush. It may not be as extreme as in the north but lower doses of fertilizer more frequently would be better for you since it doesn't completely stop for winter.
Would u still consider putting down nitrogen in the spring if ur lawn have rust fungus.I was told by doing that it will push all the rust out of the lawn. Thanks
Some grass is more susceptible to that fungus than others but a dose could be fine if you can keep up with mowing.
@Ryan, I'm in Northern NJ, have fescue/zoysia. I have an earthway 2600A and plan to use milorganite. Do you know what setting would be best on that? The bag says 1 bag is good for 2500sq ft and my lawn is exactly 2450 sq ft.
Great video! Question...I just did my first mow and have noticed some crab grass and a nice buttonweed (spiky weed). I applied a Scott's product last fall, but may have done it too late? I feel it's too late to apply a pre-emergent, so any ideas? 🤣 I was thinking of applying a small amount of the SLS liquid fertilizer? Same state, central location.
In most northern places right now there's still time for pre-emergent. Soil temps are not high enough that you should be seeing any widespread crabgrass.
@@ryanknorrlawncare, thank you. I didn't realize you were in the DSM area. I'm in Newton and we just purchased a house last July and the lawn wasn't looking too good then. My goal is to just have a nice, green plush lawn. Thank you for the reply and knowledgeble info, and I'll keep up with the vids.
Do I use the liquid with my granular fertilizer or just the liquid? Thanks
You can do one or the other or you can do both. It all depends on how much you like to be out there tweaking things. I do my heavier granular apps in the early fall and use liquids more consistently the rest of the year to spoon feed.
Is 18-0-1 Green punch considered heavy for spring-cool season lawn?
Depends on the rate. If you used lower rate it would be fine
All depends on the target rate of N you want to apply in pounds / 1000 sft. Rough Math and please correct me if I am wrong: Lets say a 1 gallon bottle of 18-0-1 weighs 10.2 lbs. If you want to apply .25 pounds of N per 1,000 sft, you will need 0.14 gallons/17.92 oz. of green punch per 1,000 sft. A 5,000 sft lawn will use 0.7 gallons of product. Looking at a $28 application for 5,000 sft . If that math is correct and to answer your question, I would say it is not heavy. I would question if it is cost effective for your turf needs. By the way, I'm a big fan of Greene County. I apply MicroGreene for the kelp/minerals, and GreenEffect for the iron in addition to spreading Granular Fertilizer.
Can or should fertilizer in spring and fall? I had soil test done late summer last year suggested I do 5-3-3 for fertilizer new property or no one lived her over 10 years anyways
With 5-3-3 organic don't think can really burn it out if you over lap right? I hardly have any nitrogen according to soul test lol
Spring and fall for cool season grasses. More focused on fall than spring for most of your feeding.
Carbon pro g or mirimichi. Soil conditioner won’t hurt. And or some RGS …
Does this apply to usa only always wondered as temperature is different everywhere ,im in uk
You're cooler in the summer than here but the same principle for early spring would apply.
@@ryanknorrlawncare thanks for the heads up
Ryan, my lawn started very slow, and i still show yellowing in alot of areas? My weeds are greener than my lawn? I feel like i should’ve waited after grass got green but i verticutted my lawn, seeded and applied scotts lawn food. :( what should i do? I live in kansas city kansas
The weather has been very cold so give it time
Should the early spring feeding be done when the grass is still coming out of winter and brownish, or will this hurt it? I seeded with all KBG last fall and only did a starter app.. did not have much time for a winterizer app. Trying to push all of the growth and spreading that I can get since it is only about 1/2 to an inch tall.
It won’t hurt your grass to fertilize too early, you just risk losing how effective the fertil will work. When temps dip to around freezing at night the grass won’t vigorously grow no matter how much fertilizer is applied. Most effective would be to wait until the forsythia bloom (start turning yellow) or ground temps are 45-50 degrees at a 2” depth.
The toughest thing to do in lawn care is wait…
My guy!
why the hell you drinkin keystone light!!
What about Pre-emergents? Of course you fertilize in the Spring.
Why don’t you use organic
Organics need warmer soil temperatures to work. The organic nutrients need to be broken down by soil microbes before plants can use them and soil microbe activity in cold soil is very low. Organics are better suited for late spring/summer/early fall.
You provide a decent rationale, Ryan. However, this still seems like guess work, when a simple soil test can provide detailed information (including PH), indicating what, if any, fertilizer needs to be applied to the specific yard. It seems like this advice may be more appropriate to those who have adequate levels of nutrients, but again, only a soil test can actually confirm that information. Rather than guessing, simply get a soil test in the spring - its cheap! That way, you know exactly what is needed and not wasting money and time, not applying unnecessary products, and potentially reducing runoff. Most general fertilizer (e.g., spring feed / fall feed) are balanced and assume the yard is also balanced. Thus, an unbalanced yard will remain unbalanced after application of a "balanced" fertilizer. Overall, good video, but we should be making decisions that are informed rather than guessing!
I let er rip, try and stop me ha
First
I would like to know the name of herbicide and phone number to contact
Who cares what time of the year it is to fertilize...... its just grass...... GRASS lol