Having been a fan of Norm Abrahams in The Old Yankee Workshop for many years I am really enjoying your RUclips videos. When I watch Norm with his vast workshop and what must be industrial tools I watch in amazement. Your videos however impart useful knowledge which aids any aspiring woodworker. Thanks
Likewise with a tracksaw... but when I get one I'm going to study up on how you use it. I'm quite impressed by your ability to contain the superfine dust from all the mdf you cut. Best, Matt
Just binged a load of your build videos as I've a fitted wardrobe to build. Would be great to see a tips/tricks video for fitted units. The build of the units doesn't phase me. Just the fitting it seamlessly into a space where the walls aren't square etc. Loving the work and podcast
Thanks! I’ve done quite a few installs where I show some of the tips and tricks- if you check out the ‘shelves and storage’ playlists section the install vids are mostly the last in each of the series 👍
Another very informative video sir. I do like watching a professional cabinet maker at work. For me woodworking is a hobby so I learn some good techniques.
I particularly liked the close-up shots from that video. Look forward to seeing more. Interesting , too, is your way of dealing with the large quantity of pieces.
Nice work as always Peter, been enjoying the podcast with you and Andy, two of my favorite UK RUclipsrs, nice to see Phil makes things mentioned on the site different style but a great watch as well, keep it up 👍
Peter I just started watching this particular series and your intro talks about the small space. My space is not much bigger than yours but my hat is off to you for the quality and quantity of work you do in such a small space. I don’t know that I could do what you do in such a small space! But here in the U.S. where I live no one does the “precision” material cutting that I would need so I must process my sheet goods myself. The big box home improvement/building supply stores will cut it for you but not with precision and certainly not from a cut list.... Well done Peter. Ron
Thanks Ron! Yes, I know I’m fortunate to have a local timber yard that will cut so accurately for me. And of course it’s a huge advantage of the Tracksaw system to be able to break down sheet material accurately in a small space! 👍👍
Now how many you figured hit part 2 ,saying oh Peter must be doing something a little different this time ....,reminded me of "wet paint" signs and what do everyone do,they touched it to check ,and yes i touched the paint too...lol
Thanks Dave! EO4 our next week 👍 If you can find the time, a positive review/rating on iTunes really helps push us up the stack - and if you’ve already found the time, then thanks! 👍👍
Peter this is awesome. The only question I have is how do you do your plans? Here in this piece you have sooooo maaaany pieces!!!! How do you design this? I get lost!
Haha, thanks! It’s not really that complex; basically an alcove unit (low cabinet with bookcase above) repeated three times, and adjusted slightly e.g. one long tip instead of three separates, and glazed doors on the centre bookcase. I usually use an old copy of Omnigraffle for simple 2-d plans, but switched recently to Graphic (used to be called iDraw) which is very nice, and does a few things Omnigraffle (which to be fair was really for charting or diagramming) didn’t. It’s also 1/4 the price... 🤔 As for the ‘so many pieces’ part, I just break each item down into components (sides, top & base, back, doors) and then the components down further if needed (eg doors). 👍
Great job (in both meanings)! Thanks for sharing. I probably repeat myself but the hinge system for the guiding list is perfect. Quick and easy work. If you make something (it 'll be more complicated but I'm sure you'd find a way how to do that) similar what can make mitres, you'll never have to use your mitre saw again in your workshop. What's the reason for wearing gloves at the router table?
Hi Peter, |Can you please show us the how you do the measuremnts for hanging the doors, I know you have a little jig, but I cant for the life of me suss out how you get them all to align perfect as you do. i use the festool LR32 thing which I dont much care for to be honest , I love your way better by far. Excellent as usual videos mate
Hi Shay, and thanks! I’ve covered the door/hinge procedure in a few other videos - wardrobes with panel doors and top boxes was one series - but the short answer is I set the top & bottom hinge positions with a combi square and use the little plastic hinge jig to set the depth position on the stile. 👍
Peter, you may have answered this question before, and if you have my apologizes. With that said, I know you use the Festool Track saw system for many of your cross cuts however I was wondering about the "hinged" track saw attachment. Is it a Festool part, aftermarket or something you put together? Like you, I have very limited shop space and a cabinet style table saw would be just too big. Your track saw system would be ideal for me.
Hi & thanks! It's an off-the-shelf Festool MFT or Multi-Function Table - there's a ton of videos on RUclips about them if you do a quick search. Great piece of kit, but not cheap, sadly. 👍
Hello 👋🏻. My question is if your shop was bigger would you invest in a big table/panel saw or use a track saw I’ve built a 30x18foot shed for wood work and don’t know whether to invest of use tracksaw for ripping sheet goods Love your videos Thanks niallll
So I get the whole ten minute thing, but I don’t suppose anyone loves having to wait to watch the next instalment! That’s the price you pay with such great videos I suppose!
Thanks! From the video description: “Now I’ve posted previous series on a daily basis, but with this one I’m spreading them out as weekly videos simply because the current job is all-encompassing; regular service will resume when I get out from under this mammoth job of work...” As I said in my recent 15-month roundup, the paying work I do must come first, and I’m in the middle of the biggest job I’ve ever done, so something has to give. One option was to put the channel on hold and not post anything for the next few months, another was to keep posting but spread things out a little; I talk about it in a bit more detail in the podcast www.measuringuppodcast.com - it’s not a decision I’ve made lightly. As I say, normal service will resume, but right now this is all I can do. Work comes first. 👍
Not really - Domino's are pennies apiece, and tbh it's just for alignment; If I was only doing a couple of shelves then I'd happily tape and glue, but with a dozen or so it speeds things up. 👍
Hi Peter, may I ask how long you clamp the shelf lipping for. You had a lot of shelves to do and presumably not enough clamps or time to leave them overnight. Ta
Hi Phillip. That’s an older vid now, so in truth I can’t say for sure, but probably until I ran out of clamps, and had to start reusing them! I use a fast grab pva and usually 20 minutes is plenty of time for the adhesive to have taken hold, bearing in mind that the whole workshop is generally quite warm. 👍👍
Thanks Ross. It's an off-the-shelf Festool MFT or Multi-Function Table - there's a ton of videos on RUclips about them if you do a quick search. Great piece of kit, but not cheap, sadly. 👍
Peter just a quick one I am in the next couple of weeks going to be doing a bedroom at home ,normally I would just buy the units from were I work ,but due to the design and to keep the cost's down a bit I will be making the units out of MDF and getting the the doors made to suit . 1 - so just watching your vid you edge your shelf's with timber . why ? is it just for strength or is it because it is more stronger than the MDF when it comes to penitential damage caused by knocks etc 2- and do the shelf suffer from cracking over time were the timer joins the MDF 3 - also how do you finish the leading edge of your units ie the end grain of the MDF been a bit rough for painting I am probably jumping the gun and you might be covering the above in the next vid but I thought I'd ask any ways Andy
Hi Andy . 1. Yes, just for strength; these were quite a wide span (~1100mm) and I didn’t want them sagging. 2. No, no cracking over time, that I’m aware of - they’re well fixed with dominos and glue, so no movement. And 3. I don’t do anything special on the cut edges, just a coat of primer, rubbed back and recoated. I did a (lengthy) series on finishing & painting a while back, if you want all the details 👍
Hi Peter, Firstly thank you for all the handy tips and advice that has made my job easier. I was wondering what app you use for the technical drawings you show? Thanks, Robert Hough.
Thanks Robert! I use a very old copy of Omnigraffle for doing simple 2-D diagrams. I should upgrade it, or try something else, but there's a lot of muscle-memory to work against, and tbh it does the job pretty well. There seems to be a dearth of simple 2-D drawing software made for regular folks - everything else I've tried wants to be CAD, and I just want simple - 2-D to scale, in metric. So I stick with Omnigraffle, not because it's great, but because it's what I know; hardly a ringing endorsement, is it, lol! 😂 👍
I put a deeper lipping on all shelves over a certain width (~800mm or so) for strength, to help stop the shelf sagging, where I know the shelves will come under a heavier load 👍
Hi Martin, and thanks! I use an ancient copy of Omnigraffle - it’s not ideal tbh and I’m sure there’s better out there, but there’s lots of muscle-memory involved, so a lot of effort to change! 👍👍
Hi Doug. It’s not generally considered ‘best practice’ TBH but it was simply for grip; I had dry skin that day and MDF is particularly slippy. That’s all 👍
Hi Tim. TBH it's an off-the-shelf Festool MFT or Multi-Function Table - there's a ton of videos on RUclips about them if you do a search. Not sure I have much to add 👍
Great video and thanks for recommendation re Gosforth Handyman.A question if I may. When I watch videos from yourself and others making built in cupboards they are made from MDF (maybe MRMDF), but when I watch workshop cabinet projects it always seems everything is made out of plywood. I suspect the quality / price equation is a bit kore favourable in the US, so maybe that is why they use ply. In the UK the plywood I buy from DIY stores tends to be poor quality with many voids and delamination, but I would need a kortgage to make all my worksuop cupboards from Baltic birch plywood at the prices I see. Is there any reason why workshop cabinets can't be made from MRMDF?Many thanks in advance for any thoughts.
Thanks! No, no reason not to make workshop cabinets from MDF or MR MDF. Our U.S. cousins do seem mildly obsessed with plywood shop cabinets; I don't think MDF has the kind of penetration in the US that it has in the UK & Europe, and certainly there's a considerable price difference here which I don't think is reflected in the US. End of the day, they're shop cabinets - use whatever you have to hand 👍
Great video. Thanks a lot for your tutorials. I have 2 stupid questions regarding shelves. 1- why do add plywood add the end of your shelves 2- do you think it would do the same if we groove a tongue ( T shape : male on mdf and U shape : female on sofwood) for the entire length with a router ? ( for those who don’t have your machine). Thanks
Thanks! It’s not plywood, just a softwood lipping to help prevent sag under load. And yes, absolutely a simple grooves or rebated edge will do just as well👍👍
It’s actually 120 cm wide. I was going for everything 18 mm thick (cabinet and sides) and table top + shelves 22mm thick ? Thanks a lot for your answers
Hi Kevin. Link for the bit is in the video description - from memory it’s about 21/22mm deep, so the loose tenon’s a mm or so undersize x whatever length it needs to be 👍
Hi Peter Millard, Think this may be my first time commenting on one of your videos Although there is many great content makers on youtube almost all are from the other side of the pond! I'm in Ireland has its up and downs but i wouldnt change it for anything! Have a question that id love to hear your input on
Hi Peter Millard, Think this may be my first time commenting on one of your videos! Although there are many great content makers on youtube almost all are from the other side of the pond! Yours is one of my top favourites and always glad to see a new video notification! Keep it up! Also over the moon to hear about the podcasts, so far so good and really looking forward to whats to come. I'm in Ireland and my work, tools and space are very similar to yours which really helps relate. Especially the fact I'm only 21, Although I've been at it as long as I can remember youtube is definitely where I got most of my knowledge from and then its just trial and error after that! Yes it has it's up and downs but I wouldn't change it for anything! Anyways I have a question that I would love to hear your input on, Its based on your shaker doors... My method is same as yours but I use 2 8x50mm dominoes per joint rather than the floating tenon. Yours looks faster though! How do you find they hold up? What's the biggest door you've made with this method? For the last 6 months, I've been trying to use Poplar rails and styles as much as possible as that seems to be what the 'higher end' joiners use instead of moisture MDF and I wanted to up my game. I haven't seen any real pros to it bar its easier to finish the edge, but I have noticed a good few negatives... It warps, twists, expands and contracts to name a few. Actually, another big issue with it is you can't glue the panel like you do with your MDF ones, I've noticed on a job or 2 when I revisit a couple months later there can be the odd crack in the paint between panel and rail due to poplar movement!? What do you think of Poplar? I do full sized wardrobe and kitchen doors if this would influence your opinion? Sorry for such a long post, Would appreciate your reply, Thanks again, Jack. A full podcast on door construction wouldn't go astray! ;)
Hi Jack. Re the loose tenon method, they hold up just fine; biggest doors I’ve done this way was probably a pair of wardrobe doors around 600x2000 apiece. Mid-rail, on something that size of course, and I like a deeper bottom rail, but otherwise standard construction i.e. plenty of glue!. WRT poplar/tulipwood, everything you’ve said is exactly the reason why I don’t use it! I understand that rails and stiles from solid wood will be harder wearing and more able to take the knocks, but for the kind of work I do i.e. 99% painted finish, then loose tenons in MR MDF works great. 👍 And Thanks, a chat about door cabinet construction may be a good subject! 👍😀
Hi Peter, Thanks a mill for reply only getting a chance to reply now! I think I'll give the loose tenons a go next time and see how I get on. Same for me never like going over 600 wide no matter what material is used! All my work is painted/sprayed finish too. The only reason for solid wood was I thought I was offering a better product but I don't think I'm getting as good a finish! I have recently started doing full sets of doors for kitchens instead of buying them in hence the reason I'm concerned and trying to get as much info/opinions as possible. All my wardrobe and fitted units doors have always been made from MDF with no issues. But with the kitchens, I was concerned because of all the extra wear/use they get! Have you ever done a full set of kitchen doors? I've fairly big kitchen coming up, reasonably high end and very tempted to use MDF over Poplar!? But really don't want any problems down the line on this particular job either!! Thanks a mill for your time, Jack.
Hi Peter, I was at the homebuilding show the other week and was given a sample of a 'corefix' which is for use in studded walls and is like a rawl plug that has a hollow tube to bridge the gap into brick/ blockwork. I can't vouch for them but maybe worth a look. Could be handy to have to get you out of a situation with floating shelves etc. Www.corefixed.com
Thanks Matthew! I've seen them referred to but have never used them; I think the big problem with e.g. the floating shelves was that the cavity was exceptionally deep - I poked a screwdriver into the hole I drilled and didn't hit anything solid, so at least 150mm, and AFAIK corefix 'only' have 100mm or so. Sounds like a great product for some applications though, thanks! 👍
![10 Minute Workshop, 20 minute Tour [video 541]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Hj01UYo8Y1s/mqdefault.jpg)
Having been a fan of Norm Abrahams in The Old Yankee Workshop for many years I am really enjoying your RUclips videos. When I watch Norm with his vast workshop and what must be industrial tools I watch in amazement. Your videos however impart useful knowledge which aids any aspiring woodworker. Thanks
Thanks! Was a big fan of Norm back in the day. Now, let’s talk about shop safety... 👍😆
True to your word, 10 minuets is never enough.
👍
😂👍
I'm continually amazed by your workflow building cabinets with a tracksaw instead of a tablesaw... quite amazing!
Thanks Matt - I wouldn’t know where to start with a table saw, lol! 👍
Likewise with a tracksaw... but when I get one I'm going to study up on how you use it. I'm quite impressed by your ability to contain the superfine dust from all the mdf you cut. Best, Matt
I was procrastinating on cabinet doors I need to build, but I like the way you did it with a loose tenon. Thanks!
Pleasure! Best way I’ve found to make panel doors - I did a whole video on the process way back, video #001 👍👍
Cheers for the shout out Peter - very enjoyable vid, must remember to quiz you about your MFT on the next podcast. 👍🛠
Pleasure! Does this mean you’ve only just watched it?? What have you been doing...??? 😂😂👍👍
Ha! Missed this one... RUclips notifications switched off. 😉😉😂
You are a super talented man and honest to boot. Thank you for your videos.
You're very kind, thank you! Mostly I'm just experienced enough to know how to hide the mistakes. 😂👍
I'm doing up my own house and learning loads from your videos. Peace and love from Dublin, Ireland.
Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated! Always great to hear that the vids have helped! All best from London, and have a great weekend! 👍👍
Your cross cut rail is genius. Great vids!
Thank you! 👍
Particularly good video today Peter. Nailed the efficiency angle
Thanks Mark! 👍
Just binged a load of your build videos as I've a fitted wardrobe to build. Would be great to see a tips/tricks video for fitted units. The build of the units doesn't phase me. Just the fitting it seamlessly into a space where the walls aren't square etc. Loving the work and podcast
Thanks! I’ve done quite a few installs where I show some of the tips and tricks- if you check out the ‘shelves and storage’ playlists section the install vids are mostly the last in each of the series 👍
Another very informative video sir. I do like watching a professional cabinet maker at work. For me woodworking is a hobby so I learn some good techniques.
Thanks! 👍
I particularly liked the close-up shots from that video. Look forward to seeing more. Interesting , too, is your way of dealing with the large quantity of pieces.
Thanks Frank. I currently have a smaller number of very large pieces, which is a different problem 😆👍
Nice work as always Peter, been enjoying the podcast with you and Andy, two of my favorite UK RUclipsrs, nice to see Phil makes things mentioned on the site different style but a great watch as well, keep it up 👍
Thanks Leigh! Yep, we’re really enjoying making the podcasts too! 👍👍
I like the way you did the cabinet doors.
That went quick 😲 Looking forward to the next episode 👍👍👍
If only I could build them that fast 😀👍
Peter I just started watching this particular series and your intro talks about the small space. My space is not much bigger than yours but my hat is off to you for the quality and quantity of work you do in such a small space. I don’t know that I could do what you do in such a small space! But here in the U.S. where I live no one does the “precision” material cutting that I would need so I must process my sheet goods myself. The big box home improvement/building supply stores will cut it for you but not with precision and certainly not from a cut list....
Well done Peter.
Ron
Thanks Ron! Yes, I know I’m fortunate to have a local timber yard that will cut so accurately for me. And of course it’s a huge advantage of the Tracksaw system to be able to break down sheet material accurately in a small space! 👍👍
Peter Millard
Hi Peter. Very lucky indeed. I use my track saw as well to break down my sheet goods. Makes things so much easier!
Ron
Found you via Andy's channel! The podcast is awesome, you and Andy bounce off each other so well, very enjoyable. Keep up the good work!
Thanks! Really enjoying the conversation with Andy, good to hear others are too! And be sure to check out the back catalogue 👍👍😬
A very useful video.
Impressive! Just need a ‘tracksaw workshop’ and I am ready for the off.😉
It’s coming, as soon as I finish this ‘work’ stuff 😆👍
Now how many you figured hit part 2 ,saying oh Peter must be doing something a little different this time ....,reminded me of "wet paint" signs and what do everyone do,they touched it to check ,and yes i touched the paint too...lol
Very true Syd! 😂👍
Fabulous video Mr Millard!!!!!! I should have been more patient waiting for this! It's what I wanted and more 👌👌👌👌👌
Thanks Alice! There’s more to come, but the job is all-consuming just now 👍👍
Another great video Peter, just to let you know I am subscribed to both yourself and gosforth handyman and I absolutely love the podcast
Thank you! Also ‘woodworking brewer’ - my kind of guy, lol! 👍👍
Always a good view peter and always a good finish very skilful I'd be happy if you did that for me
Thanks Chris! 👍
Hi Peter, another great video, I'm a subscriber to both yours and Andy's channel and I am really enjoying the podcasts
Thanks Dave! EO4 our next week 👍 If you can find the time, a positive review/rating on iTunes really helps push us up the stack - and if you’ve already found the time, then thanks! 👍👍
Nice to see you making things again 😁😁
Thanks! I’m always making things, I just can’t always share them... 👍
I know that. Just seems to have been a while is all. Nice job as always. can't wait to see the end product.
👍👍
Nice job, Looking forward to the next video.
Thanks! 👍
Nice workflow and setup
Good show
Thanks! 👍
Looks like youre superman in disguise! Another great video to make us vievers feel like mortal! Youre highly respected!
Haha, thanks!
The biggest featherboard, i've ever seen. :-)
😆 If you need one, you need one 👍👍
You be hitting 20K in no time at all.
Holy moly! I just noticed...17k subscribers. Congrats!
Thanks! And yes, 18k here we come 😂👍
Peter this is awesome. The only question I have is how do you do your plans? Here in this piece you have sooooo maaaany pieces!!!! How do you design this? I get lost!
Haha, thanks! It’s not really that complex; basically an alcove unit (low cabinet with bookcase above) repeated three times, and adjusted slightly e.g. one long tip instead of three separates, and glazed doors on the centre bookcase. I usually use an old copy of Omnigraffle for simple 2-d plans, but switched recently to Graphic (used to be called iDraw) which is very nice, and does a few things Omnigraffle (which to be fair was really for charting or diagramming) didn’t. It’s also 1/4 the price... 🤔 As for the ‘so many pieces’ part, I just break each item down into components (sides, top & base, back, doors) and then the components down further if needed (eg doors). 👍
Great job (in both meanings)! Thanks for sharing.
I probably repeat myself but the hinge system for the guiding list is perfect. Quick and easy work.
If you make something (it 'll be more complicated but I'm sure you'd find a way how to do that)
similar what can make mitres, you'll never have to use your mitre saw again in your workshop.
What's the reason for wearing gloves at the router table?
Thanks Hans! The gloves were simply for grip 👍
That makes sense. Thanks for explaining.
I'll continue listening to the third part of your podcast in a moment.
Slick 👌🏼
Cheers Gaz 👍
Dam were part 2 hurry up lol another good vid Peter
Thanks! Sorry, got to be one a week for these, too much work on the go - sure does get in the way 🤔😬
Hi Peter, |Can you please show us the how you do the measuremnts for hanging the doors, I know you have a little jig, but I cant for the life of me suss out how you get them all to align perfect as you do. i use the festool LR32 thing which I dont much care for to be honest , I love your way better by far. Excellent as usual videos mate
Hi Shay, and thanks! I’ve covered the door/hinge procedure in a few other videos - wardrobes with panel doors and top boxes was one series - but the short answer is I set the top & bottom hinge positions with a combi square and use the little plastic hinge jig to set the depth position on the stile. 👍
Peter, you may have answered this question before, and if you have my apologizes. With that said, I know you use the Festool Track saw system for many of your cross cuts however I was wondering about the "hinged" track saw attachment. Is it a Festool part, aftermarket or something you put together? Like you, I have very limited shop space and a cabinet style table saw would be just too big. Your track saw system would be ideal for me.
Hi & thanks! It's an off-the-shelf Festool MFT or Multi-Function Table - there's a ton of videos on RUclips about them if you do a quick search. Great piece of kit, but not cheap, sadly. 👍
Thanks for the video. The thickness of softwood is the same as mdf?
Thanks! And yes, it is. 👍
Hello 👋🏻. My question is if your shop was bigger would you invest in a big table/panel saw or use a track saw
I’ve built a 30x18foot shed for wood work and don’t know whether to invest of use tracksaw for ripping sheet goods
Love your videos
Thanks niallll
Oh sure - if I had space I’d be all over a decent table saw, no question. 👍
So I get the whole ten minute thing, but I don’t suppose anyone loves having to wait to watch the next instalment! That’s the price you pay with such great videos I suppose!
Thanks! From the video description: “Now I’ve posted previous series on a daily basis, but with this one I’m spreading them out as weekly videos simply because the current job is all-encompassing; regular service will resume when I get out from under this mammoth job of work...” As I said in my recent 15-month roundup, the paying work I do must come first, and I’m in the middle of the biggest job I’ve ever done, so something has to give. One option was to put the channel on hold and not post anything for the next few months, another was to keep posting but spread things out a little; I talk about it in a bit more detail in the podcast www.measuringuppodcast.com - it’s not a decision I’ve made lightly. As I say, normal service will resume, but right now this is all I can do. Work comes first. 👍
I fully understand! Sorry - I should have read the description first! :) Keep up the good work!
No problem, thanks! 👍
They are expensive lipping do you not find just gluing and taping till dry isn’t good enough?
Not really - Domino's are pennies apiece, and tbh it's just for alignment; If I was only doing a couple of shelves then I'd happily tape and glue, but with a dozen or so it speeds things up. 👍
If I may ask what's the thickness of the mdf you are using please - railes and styles for the cabinet doors?
Great video by the way.
Thaks! I use 22mm MR MDF for the rails and stiles - give a nice solid door 👍
Peter Millard thank you kindly :)
Hi Peter, may I ask how long you clamp the shelf lipping for. You had a lot of shelves to do and presumably not enough clamps or time to leave them overnight. Ta
Hi Phillip. That’s an older vid now, so in truth I can’t say for sure, but probably until I ran out of clamps, and had to start reusing them! I use a fast grab pva and usually 20 minutes is plenty of time for the adhesive to have taken hold, bearing in mind that the whole workshop is generally quite warm. 👍👍
Thanks Peter, very good of you to reply with your advice Much appreciated 👍
So my biggest take away... need more clamps, so many clamps.
All the clamps. All of them. 👍
Great video again Peter! How does your track saw attach to the bench on that hinged bracket? Is that a festol accessory or something you have made up?
Thanks Ross. It's an off-the-shelf Festool MFT or Multi-Function Table - there's a ton of videos on RUclips about them if you do a quick search. Great piece of kit, but not cheap, sadly. 👍
Peter just a quick one I am in the next couple of weeks going to be doing a bedroom at home ,normally I would just buy the units from were I work ,but due to the design and to keep the cost's down a bit I will be making the units out of MDF and getting the the doors made to suit .
1 - so just watching your vid you edge your shelf's with timber . why ? is it just for strength or is it because it is more stronger than the MDF when it comes to penitential damage caused by knocks etc
2- and do the shelf suffer from cracking over time were the timer joins the MDF
3 - also how do you finish the leading edge of your units ie the end grain of the MDF been a bit rough for painting
I am probably jumping the gun and you might be covering the above in the next vid but I thought I'd ask any ways
Andy
Hi Andy . 1. Yes, just for strength; these were quite a wide span (~1100mm) and I didn’t want them sagging. 2. No, no cracking over time, that I’m aware of - they’re well fixed with dominos and glue, so no movement. And 3. I don’t do anything special on the cut edges, just a coat of primer, rubbed back and recoated. I did a (lengthy) series on finishing & painting a while back, if you want all the details 👍
thanks Peter will look at you vids on painting will pass a few hours over the bank holiday .. have a good weekend
Hi Peter, Firstly thank you for all the handy tips and advice that has made my job easier.
I was wondering what app you use for the technical drawings you show?
Thanks, Robert Hough.
Thanks Robert! I use a very old copy of Omnigraffle for doing simple 2-D diagrams. I should upgrade it, or try something else, but there's a lot of muscle-memory to work against, and tbh it does the job pretty well. There seems to be a dearth of simple 2-D drawing software made for regular folks - everything else I've tried wants to be CAD, and I just want simple - 2-D to scale, in metric. So I stick with Omnigraffle, not because it's great, but because it's what I know; hardly a ringing endorsement, is it, lol! 😂 👍
Thanks Peter, Very Helpful.
Hi Peter. Just need to know why is your lippings that wide? Is it because it's harder to break of?
I put a deeper lipping on all shelves over a certain width (~800mm or so) for strength, to help stop the shelf sagging, where I know the shelves will come under a heavier load 👍
Using the silicone brush now, are you converted? :) Great video as usual.
Thanks! I still use the old ones for finer glue-ups, but yes, the silicone brushes are great 👍👍
Hi Peter love your videos just wondering what software you use for doing your plans
Hi Martin, and thanks! I use an ancient copy of Omnigraffle - it’s not ideal tbh and I’m sure there’s better out there, but there’s lots of muscle-memory involved, so a lot of effort to change! 👍👍
Hi Peter, notice you wearing gloves while routering the groves in the rails and stiles. Mind sharing why?
Hi Doug. It’s not generally considered ‘best practice’ TBH but it was simply for grip; I had dry skin that day and MDF is particularly slippy. That’s all 👍
Why do I get the feeling you leave things a little to late to start sometimes Peter 😂😂😂
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Hi peter will you do I vid on your swing down track saw please.kind regards tim
Hi Tim. TBH it's an off-the-shelf Festool MFT or Multi-Function Table - there's a ton of videos on RUclips about them if you do a search. Not sure I have much to add 👍
Great video and thanks for recommendation re Gosforth Handyman.A question if I may. When I watch videos from yourself and others making built in cupboards they are made from MDF (maybe MRMDF), but when I watch workshop cabinet projects it always seems everything is made out of plywood. I suspect the quality / price equation is a bit kore favourable in the US, so maybe that is why they use ply. In the UK the plywood I buy from DIY stores tends to be poor quality with many voids and delamination, but I would need a kortgage to make all my worksuop cupboards from Baltic birch plywood at the prices I see. Is there any reason why workshop cabinets can't be made from MRMDF?Many thanks in advance for any thoughts.
Thanks! No, no reason not to make workshop cabinets from MDF or MR MDF. Our U.S. cousins do seem mildly obsessed with plywood shop cabinets; I don't think MDF has the kind of penetration in the US that it has in the UK & Europe, and certainly there's a considerable price difference here which I don't think is reflected in the US. End of the day, they're shop cabinets - use whatever you have to hand 👍
Thank you for taking the time to reply Peter, really helpful.
Hi Peter. Been meaning to ask. What is the device called that the track is connected to on the bench?
Hi James. It’s a Festool ‘Multi Function Table’ or MFT for short. Very handy but if kit, but not cheap, sadly. 😬👍
Great video. Thanks a lot for your tutorials. I have 2 stupid questions regarding shelves. 1- why do add plywood add the end of your shelves 2- do you think it would do the same if we groove a tongue ( T shape : male on mdf and U shape : female on sofwood) for the entire length with a router ? ( for those who don’t have your machine). Thanks
Thanks! It’s not plywood, just a softwood lipping to help prevent sag under load. And yes, absolutely a simple grooves or rebated edge will do just as well👍👍
Thanks for your answer. By the way, do you think making the all thing with 18mm mdf thick would work instead of 22 ?
Sure. You need to be careful with the span though. These were 1100mm wide, so 22mm and a solid lip was a must 👍
It’s actually 120 cm wide. I was going for everything 18 mm thick (cabinet and sides) and table top + shelves 22mm thick ? Thanks a lot for your answers
Sounds like a good plan. Always happier with 22mm thick shelve👍👍
What is the sandwich material you use for the shelves?
It’s 22mm MRMDF with a ~25x22mm redwood lip. Not sure where you’re getting ‘sandwich material’ from?? 👍
Hi Peter. What is the depth of the groove and the dimensions of the lose tenon?
Kevin Capiau be very interested to know what router but you used and where from
Hi Kevin. Link for the bit is in the video description - from memory it’s about 21/22mm deep, so the loose tenon’s a mm or so undersize x whatever length it needs to be 👍
Hi Sebastian. There are links to most things ‘used/featured in this video’ in every video description. I generally buy my bits from Wealden tool 👍👍
Hi Peter Millard, Think this may be my first time commenting on one of your videos Although there is many great content makers on youtube almost all are from the other side of the pond! I'm in Ireland has its up and downs but i wouldnt change it for anything! Have a question that id love to hear your input on
Hey Jack. Talk about a cliffhanger! Happy to answer any questions I can - but you need to ask ‘em first, lol! 👍👍
Hi Peter Millard, Think this may be my first time commenting on one of your videos! Although there are many great content makers on youtube almost all are from the other side of the pond! Yours is one of my top favourites and always glad to see a new video notification! Keep it up! Also over the moon to hear about the podcasts, so far so good and really looking forward to whats to come. I'm in Ireland and my work, tools and space are very similar to yours which really helps relate. Especially the fact I'm only 21, Although I've been at it as long as I can remember youtube is definitely where I got most of my knowledge from and then its just trial and error after that! Yes it has it's up and downs but I wouldn't change it for anything! Anyways I have a question that I would love to hear your input on, Its based on your shaker doors...
My method is same as yours but I use 2 8x50mm dominoes per joint rather than the floating tenon. Yours looks faster though! How do you find they hold up? What's the biggest door you've made with this method?
For the last 6 months, I've been trying to use Poplar rails and styles as much as possible as that seems to be what the 'higher end' joiners use instead of moisture MDF and I wanted to up my game. I haven't seen any real pros to it bar its easier to finish the edge, but I have noticed a good few negatives... It warps, twists, expands and contracts to name a few. Actually, another big issue with it is you can't glue the panel like you do with your MDF ones, I've noticed on a job or 2 when I revisit a couple months later there can be the odd crack in the paint between panel and rail due to poplar movement!? What do you think of Poplar? I do full sized wardrobe and kitchen doors if this would influence your opinion?
Sorry for such a long post, Would appreciate your reply, Thanks again, Jack.
A full podcast on door construction wouldn't go astray! ;)
Hmm, Bit of youtube glitch! its complete on my phone but not on the laptop! Just sent again below see if it works!!?
Hi Jack. Re the loose tenon method, they hold up just fine; biggest doors I’ve done this way was probably a pair of wardrobe doors around 600x2000 apiece. Mid-rail, on something that size of course, and I like a deeper bottom rail, but otherwise standard construction i.e. plenty of glue!. WRT poplar/tulipwood, everything you’ve said is exactly the reason why I don’t use it! I understand that rails and stiles from solid wood will be harder wearing and more able to take the knocks, but for the kind of work I do i.e. 99% painted finish, then loose tenons in MR MDF works great. 👍 And Thanks, a chat about door cabinet construction may be a good subject! 👍😀
Hi Peter, Thanks a mill for reply only getting a chance to reply now! I think I'll give the loose tenons a go next time and see how I get on. Same for me never like going over 600 wide no matter what material is used! All my work is painted/sprayed finish too. The only reason for solid wood was I thought I was offering a better product but I don't think I'm getting as good a finish! I have recently started doing full sets of doors for kitchens instead of buying them in hence the reason I'm concerned and trying to get as much info/opinions as possible.
All my wardrobe and fitted units doors have always been made from MDF with no issues. But with the kitchens, I was concerned because of all the extra wear/use they get! Have you ever done a full set of kitchen doors? I've fairly big kitchen coming up, reasonably high end and very tempted to use MDF over Poplar!? But really don't want any problems down the line on this particular job either!!
Thanks a mill for your time, Jack.
Hi Peter, I was at the homebuilding show the other week and was given a sample of a 'corefix' which is for use in studded walls and is like a rawl plug that has a hollow tube to bridge the gap into brick/ blockwork. I can't vouch for them but maybe worth a look. Could be handy to have to get you out of a situation with floating shelves etc.
Www.corefixed.com
Thanks Matthew! I've seen them referred to but have never used them; I think the big problem with e.g. the floating shelves was that the cavity was exceptionally deep - I poked a screwdriver into the hole I drilled and didn't hit anything solid, so at least 150mm, and AFAIK corefix 'only' have 100mm or so. Sounds like a great product for some applications though, thanks! 👍
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