When I'm feeling down theres nothing like doing some sound system upgrades, alarm installs, or just deep cleaning your car to make it look factory new. Some of these require a few hours of googling and research but if a 17 year old can do it so can you
I think that was really cool how you didn't make fun of the person like you said u just educated him on how it should be done awesome video bro i bet the dude was thrilled when he got his car back ✌🏼🔈🔉🔊
Frank Rivera Ya they were really happy how clean and deep the bass was after. And they liked that the amp was hidden even for paying for a basic installation.
I have the kicker manufacturer box with the terminals right below the port. So it's a lot better than a prefab box as shown in the video. Never seen such an install if you can call it that. I love how you were able to find the missing piece of the puzzle. Thank you so much for the great content.
LOL! My very first subs were powered by the factory head unit. I couldn't afford an amp at the time but they sounded great considering. They were a set of 12" Pyramids from a pawn shop.
I would understand maybe your client didn't know how subs work. Glad you helped them out, and have an amplifier..im sure your client was happy money well spend. the prefab boxes not a fan...love manufacturer boxes with one terminal cup like me I have the kicker factory box. Great video
i bet it sounded bad before the install full range is bad for the subs. i have never ever seen someone do it that way..for the experience i have with car audio..i was shocked to see how it was installed before. i guess you can give the owner credit for trying. but im glad you were able to put the missing peice tougether to complete his system.
It sounded surprisingly good for how it was hooked up. It was like there were beefy 6X9's in boxes when I first heard it. After it sounded so much better. Deep clean bass.
i did a similar thing in my very first car. I had an amp but a stock ford head unit so i bypassed the lack of rca jacks by jumping the rca to the rear speakers
What I did the same thing to my 1st car because I couldn't afford an amp at the time. My next ride I got the amp and new woofers, but kept blowing them. You live and you learn. This was before RUclips. The point is to get out and do it. Stop pointing fingers and teach. Like what wire to run 4000rms or how many watts on mids and highs vs subs. Or how to pick mids and highs . Lol if it don't burn to the ground it's a good start.
The best part is that there is no need for 2 12s with a factory head unit and stock mids and highs. Should have bought a 4 channel amp with One 12 running off 2 channels bridged and the other speakers run in parallel. That would've been fine.
Power isnt the issue here. Impedence would be the issue. In this setup, the subwoofers were wired in parallel which lowers the impedence of the circuit. Lowering the impedance can equal a fire if not careful.
Disagree on doing the wire on the inside. The proper smart way is to use one bi-wire terminal cup. This way you can easily change the impedance of the subs quickly by using small jumpers rather than having to pull a sub. Been doing it for decades and because the jumpers are literally a couple of inches in length, wiring is still neat.
That's a cool idea but then I would have to pass the cost on to the customer for an ability they don't really need. Do I need to be able to change the load for the amp after an Install is complete and the subs and amp are already spec'd out?
AnthonyJ350 in the field people are always changing amps and this makes it easier to optimize impedance. Bi-wire terminal cup is just a couple of dollars more and jumpers can be just standard 12 gauge. Any extra parts or Labour cost is literally a couple of dollars. In a double driver setup, if one blows you don't have to pull driver out to disconnect it. Just pull the jumper on the outside until you're ready to fix it or replace blown subwoofer. There is absolutely no downside to this and makes for a super convenience factor for the customer. I mean I do my own installs and I can't emphasize enough how this makes it easier.
Oh I get what you're saying. But I'm saying we do 5 to 10 amp installs a week on average and I don't see a need to have that type of flexibility after the job is done. I don't have the vehicles come back that often to swap amps or subs because the customer wants to. But that's my market and maybe your area is different.
My apologies, I watched the video again and heard you normally put the wires inside. I would have rear fired the box and completely hid all wires. Works better for sound as well being in a trunk with seats opened up.
If I'm setting up a dual 2ohm sub with a amp that runs the needed power how would I set it up? I got a bit confused because of dual 4ohm sub can be wired to handle 2ohms
Unless your amp is 1 ohm stable wire it up in series for a 4ohm load. Some amps like Alpine's PDX or JL's HD amps put out the same power whether they see a 2 ohm or 4 ohm load.
like a impatient dumbass I tried to hook my subs to the 6 by 9s thinking it would work..smh boy! was I wrong. I'm glad I found this video..I think my smartphone was listening & watching me, cause I sign into RUclips & here I am lol 👍
The main reason this is not a good way is because subwoofer's are not full range drivers! There is no type of cross over used in this install when first approached to protect the subwoofer's from high frequency damage! Another issue is the resulting lower impedance draw on the factory or replacement head unit will lead to internal amplifier damage and can in some cases lead to a fire internally! Subwoofer's are specifically designed, manufactured and made to recreate or reproduce a small range of low frequencies which other drivers are incapable of reproducing often between 250-45 hz (yes they can attempt to reproduce lower frequencies than 45hz but usually lose efficiency in those ranges which can result in unwanted side-effects)! These low frequencies which are not easily or properly reproduced by full range or mid range drivers as well as cheap solutions used by the auto-industry and can only be reproduced with effectiveness and efficiency with specific built drivers! Subwoofer's were designed and are often chosen by an "Audiophile" a selective person which prefers the highest quality in sound reproduction for the best personal enjoyment of their favorite music, movies and television! This is why in speaker terms there are a varied array or types of drivers which are "Frequency Targeted" and designed specifically to reproduce efficiently and effectively various ranges or spectrum's of audible frequencies! Woofers and subwoofer's are also not the same type of driver, since woofers are designed to reproduce a larger variation of frequencies which can reach as high as or maybe higher than 400hz, but are not designed specifically to produce only low frequencies, which usually start at the 250hz range!
I have a sub box that fits in my trunk but I would like it to be by the rear seat. The problem I have is the rear speakers are in the way. I was thinking that I could put my rear speakers sit higher. Is that a good idea?
Make a new rear deck lid and make the speakers come up and angle in a little. I did the same with my accord. Used the factory rear deck lid as a base for fiberglassing.
Unless you seal the subs completely off from the cabin, You are getting major cancellation hell going on. Nothing to load off of, phase issues all around, its just plain horrible. Yes you are completely losing DBs firing forward without doing a proper trunk wall anyone that's ever competed in spl or even touched a termlab magnum in a trunk car knows this. sound-waves propagate into the cabin but loads off the windshield and goes back into the trunk or the bass waves meet and cancel each other out basically your bass waves are fighting themselves. Phase cancellation 101.
u mother pancit! I’m in high school and I did my system the right way. 2 Alpine Type R 15s, a Sundown 2K, Memphis 1/0 AWG wiring. My mids are Rockford Fosgate getting 100w a piece from an Alpine amp.
If You were even remotely close to me i would have loved to have you look at my car. I think you'd notice all the shatered trim from previous owner, and then my attempts at wiring. Quick disconnects everywhere, mismatch of factory and aftermarket wires. Its a mess. Keep it up, I've been cleaning my build up little by little watching your videos.
A customer did this with a Yukon but he disconnected the factory 8in woofer and in it place put kicker comp R 12s. He brought it to my shop because it was cutting out. And then when I told him that's not the right way to do that. It's because the comp 12s are wired to 1ohm and the factory amp cant handle that load. He said "Mann I'm going somewhere else you don't know what your doing. Them ohms don't matter. The subs aren't getting enough power so they slipping. The amp needs turned up more but I don't know how to do it" Then I explained to him that's not how it works. So he left my shop
It's funny how some people don't know anything but come into our shops and get mad when we try to educate them. Had a mechanic write a bad review because during a consultation he didn't like the price to do the job properly and thinks we ONLY hook up to the OBDII connector to do the job... For your situation I use the analogy towing a trailer. The amp is the "truck" and the sub is the "trailer". So if your amp and sub are mismatched it's like towing a 10,000lb trailer with a Ford Ranger as opposed to doing it properly with a Super Duty.
AnthonyJ350 exactly what I say to customers. when they buy huge subs from me. Then go buy a amazon special 1,000watt amp because they only care about the numbers on the box. The cheapest 1,000 watt amp I sell is a Rockford fosgate prime 1200 and it's $249.99 they rather spend $50 on a amazon special because they think it's the same thing. So I use the truck and trailer analogy to explain why it's a bad idea. And if that doesn't work I use my SMD AMM-1 and my test bench to show the difference from a boss 1100 watt amp and a Rockford punch 1,000. After that point they want to buy something different.
AnthonyJ350 I don't believe Steve Meade sells a test bench. But you can use the amm1 and a couple battery's to test Amps your self. I use 2 XS power d3400 on a Xs power charger (10amp) and a pioneer DEH-7800bhs headunit. To test Amps just hook one up like a regular car and play song and use the amm1 to measure the watts. Not the best explanation but you should get it. All together it's about $1500USD
djbz bruce-zabala I want to look into amp dyno so I can get a bass line for setting gains on the bench to know exactly how much power I'm throwing at the subs. I have a DD1 but that just maxs the amp safely and I don't want to do Ohms law every time.
Guess they think there Sony mex100 would do it,I always have more amp than sub but least when I have 1500w rms my subs being 600rms each I'll be okay because ur amp under real world conditions with box rise that causes the subs to rise in ohms that will then rise them ohms ur amp see and will decrease amp wattage
The only way to blow up speakers is by overpowering them. There is no such thing as "underpowering" a speaker--if there was, all speakers would fry when running low volume levels. You can damage a speaker by overpowering it by massive clipping of an amplifier--the average power skyrockets and cooks the voice coil from heavily clipped outputs that exceed the coils ability to shed heat. The other way is to run a speaker at a frequency lower than it is designed to do which rips the suspension up leading to torn parts, buckled cones and voice coil damage from smacking the magnet. Damage is from heat of overpowering the voice coil or physical damage from pushing the cone too far (too much power at to low of a frequency) The way to prevent damage is not to clip the amplifier (proper gain) to use limiters that inform you with limit lights (pro amp stuff) use high pass filters to prevent excessive cone movement (ported/horn speakers) and learn what clipped signals sound like. The correct statement is "You can blow up speakers by OVERpowering them by running a heavily clipped amplifier that exceeds the thermal capacity of the voice coil"
Love Puppy But if you underpower at higher volume you run into distortion which wrecks a speaker. You can overpower a little bit giving you more "head room".
The correct term is "clipping" not "underpowering". Once you clip the signal, headroom is gone. Here is the information from QSC which makes pro sound gear (amps and speakers) They clarify what clipping is, what it does to speakers and myths and truths of speaker damage. You should print it out and post it at your shop, help educate your customers and they will love you for it. forum.qscservice.com/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=2736&sid=546d7d2ba49d2b016b8b9bfeaf969008
Did you leave the jumper wire on the outside or was that just for a visual representation? How does the amp mounted directly to the carpet as opposed to mounting on a board? Check out Five Star Car Stereo out of Fla, or Car Audio Ect from New Zealand.
Sometimes you have to compromise when you put a system in a daily and you put items in the trunk. Like this custom sound system I built for a BMW ruclips.net/video/sOntyBeJ_2Y/видео.html
ThesexyMrX yeah they need to be facing the trunk when the sound waves bounce off the truck first they amplify and are much lounder...i can open my trunk and stand in front of my type rs and won't feel them at all but in the truck they make is almost impossible to swallow ur spit and make bags and paper float
okay, i get u.. my shit just rattles like crazy i cant seem to insulate my trunk door.. i get less rattle and i figured fuller sound using my method. when i get a newer car i will keep ur advice in mind.. thx
I thought this was going to be a video saying something important not just going over the obvious and if you run the wiring right you can connect to both sets of terminals and have it look good
You can burn them out like that.. too little power causes little air flow which causes over heating, too much power causes over excursions which kills the coil and can cause over heating.. pretty much power your subs right
What inputs did you use for the LC2i? Did you use the rear deck inputs? Since I only saw 1, mono amp (the sub amp) how are you now running the rear deck speakers? Did you just jump off the rear deck speakers like it was previously by the owner? Talk about not done correctly. You should have used a 4 ch amp. Used channel 1 and 2 to power the rear deck and 3 and 4 bridged to run the subs.
Mark J Well it also depends on budget, adding a 4 channel you need to spend a little more. We grabbed signal off the fronts as I tend to fade the head unit towards the front.
Tom Musick Why? It's flows through the chassis which is typically steel. Copper is a much better conductor. How do you think fiberglass boats are wired? Now I typically ground to chassis but in a high amperage application on a newer vehicle that has few welds and is mostly attached by adhesive, grounding straight to the battery is better in that application.
You saw there were two 12s but you hadnt opened up the trunk yet 😂😂😂 thats almost as bas as trying to run the subs off deck power. Nobody flips the backseat forward first if the stereo sounds like shit
But really people stay AWAY from audio shops is because You guys buy a 70$ Kenwood amp and then charge them 100 120bux for the same amp Then rape them on install I used to work for Columbus car audio and a few others back in the day.. I know how it works Now I do basic installs for FREE and show them the internet links so they can buy it ..and not waste money
Eric Salyer pro shops (No matter the field) aren't a waste of money. It's a service people want. You can't put everything on a ratio: cost of amp/ install time. Not every wants to or can install at a pro level. You're basically knocking someone for having a job and providing a service. I pay professionals to do work if they can save me time or give me a better result I.e. a transmission rebuild, custom exhaust, upholstery etc
Sorry I read over your comment. You're upset because a business purchases product and resells it for a profit? That's how the world works. That's how I buy food, pay the mortgage and pay my property tax. Question to you, how do you make money exactly?
If you should do a educational video you should do it right. There is A LOT more reasons to why you shouldn't wire it like that. FIRST OF ALL... Adding two subwoofers to the factory amp/ headunit makes the impedance way too low which means you risk to fry your shit. SECOND OF ALL.. There is something called low pass filter (LPF) and high pass filter (HPF) which chooses what frequences should play. A sub is usually made to play up to around 80-100Hz BUT if you wire it like this you're also playing the frequences that the 6x9s should play which is up to around 1kHz... So no, it do not even work in the practic.
It works! I've had mine in for a while now, it works fine. Lol some losers look at me funny when they first see there's no amp, but its all g bc I'm not tryna win any sound offs or anything so they get over. If they don't get over it its probly bc they spent alot of $ on there subwoofers and they are now broke, have ear damage and mad that you didn't need to spend money to pull the same amount of attention as them😂✌
ThesexyMrX 6X9s will never replace a solid 10" sub for what it can produce. A lot of manufacturers are putting subs in now to help with bottom end on their premium sound systems.
i agree, but if you arent considering amping the signal, then replace stock rear speakers, no? speaking on the "not trying to win competitions, just get better audio" comment.. Or are you suggesting a 10 would run decent off the 50w rear channels?
specialformula14 Trust me it wasn't fake. I can't make this stuff up. The load probably stepped the head unit down to 2 ohms on the connected channels.
I've been feeling useless lately and this makes me feel less useless thank you for that
Erich Mais Glad it made you feel better lol.
When I'm feeling down theres nothing like doing some sound system upgrades, alarm installs, or just deep cleaning your car to make it look factory new. Some of these require a few hours of googling and research but if a 17 year old can do it so can you
Dirty Bong Water As long as you do your research, have safety in mind and enjoy doing the work a DIY project can be very satisfying.
I think that was really cool how you didn't make fun of the person like you said u just educated him on how it should be done awesome video bro i bet the dude was thrilled when he got his car back ✌🏼🔈🔉🔊
Frank Rivera Ya they were really happy how clean and deep the bass was after. And they liked that the amp was hidden even for paying for a basic installation.
Should of added a clip on how the subs sounded.
Saul Lopez 12x2 rms lol
Unheard of
300 club lol
shinrips I've rigged some stuff in my day but this idea never once crossed my mind.
I have the kicker manufacturer box with the terminals right below the port. So it's a lot better than a prefab box as shown in the video. Never seen such an install if you can call it that. I love how you were able to find the missing piece of the puzzle. Thank you so much for the great content.
Thanks for watching!
I just hook it up to 120volts, best sound ever. Really makes you bump.
Oh ya? How many seconds of life do you get out of the woofer? lol
I mean tge smd v.2 can handle 120v all day theres tons of companys that make them do that i mean sun down audio etc does
@@AnthonyJ350 Probably 3 seconds haha
Lol.. you gotta be kidding me
Colin Wahl Best part of this series, you can't make any of this stuff up
no you trolllllĺllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll
Colin Wahl I can't believe what I'm watching and I've rigged some Shit up!
I did it too with an 75wRMS Woofer (Push pull) .Sounds awesome.
Isobaric, nice!
LOL! My very first subs were powered by the factory head unit. I couldn't afford an amp at the time but they sounded great considering. They were a set of 12" Pyramids from a pawn shop.
I guess we all have to start somewhere lol
I would understand maybe your client didn't know how subs work. Glad you helped them out, and have an amplifier..im sure your client was happy money well spend. the prefab boxes not a fan...love manufacturer boxes with one terminal cup like me I have the kicker factory box. Great video
Thanks for watching!
i bet it sounded bad before the install full range is bad for the subs. i have never ever seen someone do it that way..for the experience i have with car audio..i was shocked to see how it was installed before. i guess you can give the owner credit for trying. but im glad you were able to put the missing peice tougether to complete his system.
It sounded surprisingly good for how it was hooked up. It was like there were beefy 6X9's in boxes when I first heard it. After it sounded so much better. Deep clean bass.
Lol the added resistance from the subs could definitely fry the head unit though. I can’t believe they did that
People are funny
I could be wrong pretty sure I'm not but are you suppose to run the amplifier wiring away from audio cable to avoid interference
MegaWolfman76..... your correct !!!! This dude obviously has no clue ! Check my build out i did on my Sonata with 3 amps at TheHOP81
meh.
you only have to separate them if your RCA cables are unshielded.
Mono block amps for subs the RCA can run with the power without noise issues.
i did a similar thing in my very first car. I had an amp but a stock ford head unit so i bypassed the lack of rca jacks by jumping the rca to the rear speakers
We all learn somewhere.
What I did the same thing to my 1st car because I couldn't afford an amp at the time. My next ride I got the amp and new woofers, but kept blowing them. You live and you learn. This was before RUclips. The point is to get out and do it. Stop pointing fingers and teach. Like what wire to run 4000rms or how many watts on mids and highs vs subs. Or how to pick mids and highs . Lol if it don't burn to the ground it's a good start.
Thanks for sharing!
14 seconds in and I'm dead LMFAO
Glad you liked it!
Damn look at all these audio pros in the comments. I bench test all my subs with an extension cord plugged into the wall. XD
Just a tip for ya, when you see smoke coming out of your subs they've been "broken" in!
60hz!
Looks like you did a good job, but one thing puzzled me, why not use an amp with high level inputs so you didn't need that extra converter?
Håkon T. The LC2i ensures the sound system doesn't suffer from bass roll off incase the factory head unit has it.
That makes sense I guess.
That's pretty funny lol. Thanks for the vid.
The best part is that there is no need for 2 12s with a factory head unit and stock mids and highs. Should have bought a 4 channel amp with One 12 running off 2 channels bridged and the other speakers run in parallel. That would've been fine.
Larry Keller Some people just want bass. Not my style but everyone is different.
I rofled at the thumbnail
That's why I picked it!
I want to put a Kenwood KDC in my dash but its mounting sleeve is bent. Can I bend it back and use it or would it be safer to just get a new one.
Yup, you can bend it back. Or see if your local install shop has one for sale.
Power isnt the issue here. Impedence would be the issue. In this setup, the subwoofers were wired in parallel which lowers the impedence of the circuit.
Lowering the impedance can equal a fire if not careful.
Thanks for the comment
Are those subs wired in parallel with the rear speakers? SVC or DVR? I’m surprised the factory stereo didn’t take a shit for seeing a 1.5-2 ohm load!
Sorry for the late reply, single 4 OHM voice coil for each sub.
Disagree on doing the wire on the inside. The proper smart way is to use one bi-wire terminal cup. This way you can easily change the impedance of the subs quickly by using small jumpers rather than having to pull a sub. Been doing it for decades
and because the jumpers are literally a couple of inches in length, wiring is still neat.
That's a cool idea but then I would have to pass the cost on to the customer for an ability they don't really need. Do I need to be able to change the load for the amp after an Install is complete and the subs and amp are already spec'd out?
AnthonyJ350 in the field people are always changing amps and this makes it easier to optimize impedance. Bi-wire terminal cup is just a couple of dollars more and jumpers can be just standard 12 gauge. Any extra parts or Labour cost is literally a couple of dollars. In a double driver setup, if one blows you don't have to pull driver out to disconnect it. Just pull the jumper on the outside until you're ready to fix it or replace blown subwoofer. There is absolutely no downside to this and makes for a super convenience factor for the customer. I mean I do my own installs and I can't emphasize enough how this makes it easier.
Oh I get what you're saying. But I'm saying we do 5 to 10 amp installs a week on average and I don't see a need to have that type of flexibility after the job is done. I don't have the vehicles come back that often to swap amps or subs because the customer wants to. But that's my market and maybe your area is different.
fuck the cup rip it out and just wire directly to yhr subs..
Lol, yeah I've seen this. Extreme budget build lol
Those subs are essentially massive tweeters lol
In this application they are
That speaker wire would be fine to almost 5k watts. People who run competition daily setups barely use 10 gauge for 30k watts or more.
Perfect example of what not to do and how not to fix it. Title says it all. I hope your "fix" is still part of the "how NOT to do car audio"
What's wrong with the fix?
It'd be nice if you can point out any errors or places we can improve upon, so we may all improve the next time.
My apologies, I watched the video again and heard you normally put the wires inside. I would have rear fired the box and completely hid all wires. Works better for sound as well being in a trunk with seats opened up.
I ran my lil 6.5 inch subwoofer off the door speaker and it moved hard but now i got the money for an amp and look at me now 😂
Why would u bridge the speakes instead of running sep wires from eatch sub to the amp ?
Andrew Bailey Because it's a Mono block and I had to get a 2ohm load from the two single 4 ohm woofers. Also it's a cleaner run through the vehicle.
If I'm setting up a dual 2ohm sub with a amp that runs the needed power how would I set it up? I got a bit confused because of dual 4ohm sub can be wired to handle 2ohms
jigthebest 1 sub or 2?
AnthonyJ350 1 sub
Unless your amp is 1 ohm stable wire it up in series for a 4ohm load. Some amps like Alpine's PDX or JL's HD amps put out the same power whether they see a 2 ohm or 4 ohm load.
like a impatient dumbass I tried to hook my subs to the 6 by 9s thinking it would work..smh boy! was I wrong. I'm glad I found this video..I think my smartphone was listening & watching me, cause I sign into RUclips & here I am lol 👍
Brave-heart Hopefully it gave you an idea what you need to make it sound proper.
You can also blowout head units internal amp rendered useless. There are other ways for subwoolfer than cluttering box
The main reason this is not a good way is because subwoofer's are not full range drivers! There is no type of cross over used in this install when first approached to protect the subwoofer's from high frequency damage! Another issue is the resulting lower impedance draw on the factory or replacement head unit will lead to internal amplifier damage and can in some cases lead to a fire internally!
Subwoofer's are specifically designed, manufactured and made to recreate or reproduce a small range of low frequencies which other drivers are incapable of reproducing often between 250-45 hz (yes they can attempt to reproduce lower frequencies than 45hz but usually lose efficiency in those ranges which can result in unwanted side-effects)!
These low frequencies which are not easily or properly reproduced by full range or mid range drivers as well as cheap solutions used by the auto-industry and can only be reproduced with effectiveness and efficiency with specific built drivers! Subwoofer's were designed and are often chosen by an "Audiophile" a selective person which prefers the highest quality in sound reproduction for the best personal enjoyment of their favorite music, movies and television!
This is why in speaker terms there are a varied array or types of drivers which are "Frequency Targeted" and designed specifically to reproduce efficiently and effectively various ranges or spectrum's of audible frequencies!
Woofers and subwoofer's are also not the same type of driver, since woofers are designed to reproduce a larger variation of frequencies which can reach as high as or maybe higher than 400hz, but are not designed specifically to produce only low frequencies, which usually start at the 250hz range!
I have a sub box that fits in my trunk but I would like it to be by the rear seat. The problem I have is the rear speakers are in the way. I was thinking that I could put my rear speakers sit higher. Is that a good idea?
Kasinova Da Don Why not remove the rear speakers and upgrade the fronts as well as amplify the fronts along with your sub.
AnthonyJ350, I'd like to keep my rear speakers. All the front four speakers are aftermarket and are already connected to my 4 channel amp.
Make a new rear deck lid and make the speakers come up and angle in a little. I did the same with my accord. Used the factory rear deck lid as a base for fiberglassing.
For the most part back seats will closed....I would have put sub box firing back...
SmallBlocks Adventures I usually fire them back, but when people put a bunch of items in the trunk I prefer to fire them toward the cabin.
That's what grill/covers are for. You lose so much output DBs by firing forward
you do not lose "deebeez" by firing forward, lol
You obviously don't know how car audio works if you think subwoofer placement doesn't play a part in output results.
Unless you seal the subs completely off from the cabin, You are getting major cancellation hell going on. Nothing to load off of, phase issues all around, its just plain horrible. Yes you are completely losing DBs firing forward without doing a proper trunk wall anyone that's ever competed in spl or even touched a termlab magnum in a trunk car knows this. sound-waves propagate into the cabin but loads off the windshield and goes back into the trunk or the bass waves meet and cancel each other out basically your bass waves are fighting themselves. Phase cancellation 101.
Wow, must be a high school owner
It sounds good now though.
Trying save money at least.
u mother pancit! Or maybe he/she was a noob :D
u mother pancit! I’m in high school and I did my system the right way. 2 Alpine Type R 15s, a Sundown 2K, Memphis 1/0 AWG wiring. My mids are Rockford Fosgate getting 100w a piece from an Alpine amp.
Living Bass Damn man, You must bumping lots of bass.
Did you worked for it?
Looks like a Toyota corolla engine where did you run the negative to?
Jimbo Jak Chassis in a cross brace under the seat using Pozitive Ground hardware.
negative runs to any ground near the sub its the easiest part..
If You were even remotely close to me i would have loved to have you look at my car. I think you'd notice all the shatered trim from previous owner, and then my attempts at wiring. Quick disconnects everywhere, mismatch of factory and aftermarket wires. Its a mess. Keep it up, I've been cleaning my build up little by little watching your videos.
Charles Small I'm glad to hear my videos are helping you produce a better product :)
Yo, i cant beleive wat da Rob Kardashian i just seen 😂😂😂😂😂
Thanks for watching!
You have to wire in series or the impedance will be reduced.
My real name is I AM But we wanted a 2 OHM load.
LMAO! That system must of been thumping!
This makes me want to compare my home stereo speakers vs my rears and subwoofer.
How did it sound?
i just bought a 8gauge wire and the 3000watts Boss amp with 2 piooner subs 12 inch
Mitsubishi Modding If your amp is 3,000 watts 8 gauge wire will be too thin.
AnthonyJ350 oh thats for my subs for the amp i have 4gauge wire with a 60 amp fuse is that good enough?
Mitsubishi Modding 60 amps sounds low for a 3000 watt amp. What are the fuses on the side of the amp and how many?
AnthonyJ350 it has two 40 fuses what fuse upgrade should i put on my power cable then?
Boss amp ratings are made up numbers. It is probably in the ballpark of 750rms
I have a 2012 impala. How do I run the remote wire
Christopher Dowdell I run it by taking apart the door sills and running underneath.
A customer did this with a Yukon but he disconnected the factory 8in woofer and in it place put kicker comp R 12s. He brought it to my shop because it was cutting out. And then when I told him that's not the right way to do that. It's because the comp 12s are wired to 1ohm and the factory amp cant handle that load. He said "Mann I'm going somewhere else you don't know what your doing. Them ohms don't matter. The subs aren't getting enough power so they slipping. The amp needs turned up more but I don't know how to do it"
Then I explained to him that's not how it works. So he left my shop
It's funny how some people don't know anything but come into our shops and get mad when we try to educate them. Had a mechanic write a bad review because during a consultation he didn't like the price to do the job properly and thinks we ONLY hook up to the OBDII connector to do the job...
For your situation I use the analogy towing a trailer. The amp is the "truck" and the sub is the "trailer". So if your amp and sub are mismatched it's like towing a 10,000lb trailer with a Ford Ranger as opposed to doing it properly with a Super Duty.
AnthonyJ350 exactly what I say to customers. when they buy huge subs from me. Then go buy a amazon special 1,000watt amp because they only care about the numbers on the box. The cheapest 1,000 watt amp I sell is a Rockford fosgate prime 1200 and it's $249.99 they rather spend $50 on a amazon special because they think it's the same thing. So I use the truck and trailer analogy to explain why it's a bad idea. And if that doesn't work I use my SMD AMM-1 and my test bench to show the difference from a boss 1100 watt amp and a Rockford punch 1,000. After that point they want to buy something different.
djbz bruce-zabala How much was the SMD test bench if you don't mind me asking?
AnthonyJ350 I don't believe Steve Meade sells a test bench. But you can use the amm1 and a couple battery's to test Amps your self. I use 2 XS power d3400 on a Xs power charger (10amp) and a pioneer DEH-7800bhs headunit. To test Amps just hook one up like a regular car and play song and use the amm1 to measure the watts. Not the best explanation but you should get it. All together it's about $1500USD
djbz bruce-zabala I want to look into amp dyno so I can get a bass line for setting gains on the bench to know exactly how much power I'm throwing at the subs. I have a DD1 but that just maxs the amp safely and I don't want to do Ohms law every time.
Mother of God!
Thanks for watching!
My factory deck and amp run my rear 6x9s as subs so I could run two 8s off the factory amp?
I would still run a small aftermarket mono block amplifier to run your 8" subs.
No u need an aftermarket amp
depends ur watts.
Its a 9 speaker system powered by a 320 watt amp from Harmon Kardon
adaboy4z nah u need somethi g way bigger that's not nearly enough power u need a minimum of 700w rms
Guess they think there Sony mex100 would do it,I always have more amp than sub but least when I have 1500w rms my subs being 600rms each I'll be okay because ur amp under real world conditions with box rise that causes the subs to rise in ohms that will then rise them ohms ur amp see and will decrease amp wattage
You can actually blow/ruin subs by underpowering them. I've done it.
Mike Griego Yup distortion
The only way to blow up speakers is by overpowering them. There is no such thing as "underpowering" a speaker--if there was, all speakers would fry when running low volume levels. You can damage a speaker by overpowering it by massive clipping of an amplifier--the average power skyrockets and cooks the voice coil from heavily clipped outputs that exceed the coils ability to shed heat. The other way is to run a speaker at a frequency lower than it is designed to do which rips the suspension up leading to torn parts, buckled cones and voice coil damage from smacking the magnet. Damage is from heat of overpowering the voice coil or physical damage from pushing the cone too far (too much power at to low of a frequency) The way to prevent damage is not to clip the amplifier (proper gain) to use limiters that inform you with limit lights (pro amp stuff) use high pass filters to prevent excessive cone movement (ported/horn speakers) and learn what clipped signals sound like. The correct statement is "You can blow up speakers by OVERpowering them by running a heavily clipped amplifier that exceeds the thermal capacity of the voice coil"
Love Puppy But if you underpower at higher volume you run into distortion which wrecks a speaker. You can overpower a little bit giving you more "head room".
The correct term is "clipping" not "underpowering". Once you clip the signal, headroom is gone. Here is the information from QSC which makes pro sound gear (amps and speakers) They clarify what clipping is, what it does to speakers and myths and truths of speaker damage. You should print it out and post it at your shop, help educate your customers and they will love you for it. forum.qscservice.com/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=2736&sid=546d7d2ba49d2b016b8b9bfeaf969008
Love Puppy That's a good idea
Did you leave the jumper wire on the outside or was that just for a visual representation? How does the amp mounted directly to the carpet as opposed to mounting on a board? Check out Five Star Car Stereo out of Fla, or Car Audio Ect from New Zealand.
Richard Dorrough We typically connect everything in the box and just use one terminal cup. Did it outside for the video to show how it's wired.
Ur subs should also be facing the back of the car not the front it's louder after the sound has bounce off of something first
Sometimes you have to compromise when you put a system in a daily and you put items in the trunk. Like this custom sound system I built for a BMW ruclips.net/video/sOntyBeJ_2Y/видео.html
i have my subs pointing up towards my rear speakers.. i figured it was the most logical way. am i wrong?
ThesexyMrX yeah they need to be facing the trunk when the sound waves bounce off the truck first they amplify and are much lounder...i can open my trunk and stand in front of my type rs and won't feel them at all but in the truck they make is almost impossible to swallow ur spit and make bags and paper float
okay, i get u.. my shit just rattles like crazy i cant seem to insulate my trunk door.. i get less rattle and i figured fuller sound using my method. when i get a newer car i will keep ur advice in mind.. thx
AnthonyJ350 i thought bass was non-directional sound
Main risk is sending full range to speakers designed for low frequency
Not really a risk. Just that playing full range drowns out lows. Doesn't break a sub
Definitely
LMFAOOOOOOO!!!!! hahahahhah!!!
Yup
I thought this was going to be a video saying something important not just going over the obvious and if you run the wiring right you can connect to both sets of terminals and have it look good
John W It's not the obvious to everyone and sometimes you have to go over basics. Watch my other videos if you want something more advanced.
i have 1000 watt amp 2 tens i use 6 gauge speaker wire with 1200 watt max power line and ground wire is that right??
I would go to 4 gauge for the amplifier.
Can't lie I did this when I had no clue lol
destincox We all start somewhere. As long as we're trying to get better and learn from situations like this.
Why would you run a single channel amp with that setup? I think I would have ran a 2 channel for sure!
Mono blocks are pretty standard to use with multiple sub woofer setups.
hahahahaha omfg
I know right.
You can burn them out like that.. too little power causes little air flow which causes over heating, too much power causes over excursions which kills the coil and can cause over heating.. pretty much power your subs right
What inputs did you use for the LC2i? Did you use the rear deck inputs? Since I only saw 1, mono amp (the sub amp) how are you now running the rear deck speakers? Did you just jump off the rear deck speakers like it was previously by the owner? Talk about not done correctly.
You should have used a 4 ch amp. Used channel 1 and 2 to power the rear deck and 3 and 4 bridged to run the subs.
Mark J Well it also depends on budget, adding a 4 channel you need to spend a little more. We grabbed signal off the fronts as I tend to fade the head unit towards the front.
That fucker was hitting hard
For what it was
First time i seen anyone do that. seems like whomever did that didnt have experience in how car audio works
Probably just home theatre experience.
I wish amps cost cheaper.... just bought 5 channel Pioneer... $250.... ugh....
$250 is cheap. My Alpine PDX goes for around $1000.
Hey Anthony I was wondering if you are the car audio guy at visions poco ? I got a install I need some help with plz let me know
Flux Vibe I'm actually at the Surrey location, you can visit me there. Make sure to call because my days off change.
No demo on how them bad ass jbl slammed.
Sorry
Gotta admit I've never seen that before
You should watch the whole series
why you sed to not do car audio epesode 22
Yariel Marte It's a little mini series I made to help people learn from mistakes and show how to correct it.
hahahaha all I can say about that "system" if you can even call it one
Technically it is one I suppose
Why can't you ground the ground to the battery
You can, just requires more material.
lmao, wrong. the ground wire should always be as short of a run as possible.
Tom Musick Why? It's flows through the chassis which is typically steel. Copper is a much better conductor. How do you think fiberglass boats are wired? Now I typically ground to chassis but in a high amperage application on a newer vehicle that has few welds and is mostly attached by adhesive, grounding straight to the battery is better in that application.
Tom Musick no you're wrong lol the best ground is the battery for the amp actually and most professionals like 150db plus use this method
JBiNN that’s what I was thinking
You saw there were two 12s but you hadnt opened up the trunk yet 😂😂😂 thats almost as bas as trying to run the subs off deck power. Nobody flips the backseat forward first if the stereo sounds like shit
Richie Pickett Well ya I scoped out the vehicle before making the video. I don't really follow your comment.
I would have had equal length of wires to the sub
If the terminal cups are and amp location make it look good sure. I've done unequal length and can't hear a difference.
you forgot to do a before and after
Well the wiring in the back to the 6X9s was the before, and the amp (which was never installed) under the seat was the after.
Yeah....you need a amplifier for subs....😂
But really people stay AWAY from audio shops is because
You guys buy a 70$ Kenwood amp and then charge them 100 120bux for the same amp
Then rape them on install
I used to work for Columbus car audio and a few others back in the day.. I know how it works
Now I do basic installs for FREE and show them the internet links so they can buy it ..and not waste money
Eric Salyer pro shops (No matter the field) aren't a waste of money. It's a service people want. You can't put everything on a ratio: cost of amp/ install time. Not every wants to or can install at a pro level. You're basically knocking someone for having a job and providing a service. I pay professionals to do work if they can save me time or give me a better result I.e. a transmission rebuild, custom exhaust, upholstery etc
Why are you working for free, don't you value your own time?
Sorry I read over your comment. You're upset because a business purchases product and resells it for a profit? That's how the world works. That's how I buy food, pay the mortgage and pay my property tax. Question to you, how do you make money exactly?
Too FUNNY.... but a lot of people do not understand how things work
That's true
I couldn't hear anything on this video. But I'm sure your talking about that old ass box.
Still looks nice
If you should do a educational video you should do it right. There is A LOT more reasons to why you shouldn't wire it like that. FIRST OF ALL... Adding two subwoofers to the factory amp/ headunit makes the impedance way too low which means you risk to fry your shit. SECOND OF ALL.. There is something called low pass filter (LPF) and high pass filter (HPF) which chooses what frequences should play. A sub is usually made to play up to around 80-100Hz BUT if you wire it like this you're also playing the frequences that the 6x9s should play which is up to around 1kHz... So no, it do not even work in the practic.
lolz, could done worse if you ask me........ pyramid 1000 watt amp with a 20 amp fuse in it.
Lol hahaha😂
Thanks for watching!
WOOOOW LMFAO WTF IVE NEVER SEEN SOME SHIT LIKE THIS
The things you see in a shop...
Robble Robble
Thanks for the comment!
Lol 2 12s @ what 25 rms from factory amp?!!
Probably more like 10-15 watts rms
Should have just jumped the subs wire in the box, it looks bad outside
DaDonBossMan But I said in the video that's what we do, we just put it on the outside so viewers can get the concept.
I'm pretty sure this isn't a show car.
DaDonBossMan could be a split enclosure.
im sure the owner dosent give 2 shits
It works! I've had mine in for a while now, it works fine. Lol some losers look at me funny when they first see there's no amp, but its all g bc I'm not tryna win any sound offs or anything so they get over. If they don't get over it its probly bc they spent alot of $ on there subwoofers and they are now broke, have ear damage and mad that you didn't need to spend money to pull the same amount of attention as them😂✌
Andrew Easton ヅ You could just put a 500 watt amp on it and not break the bank and achieve better bass results.
yea i know, your rite, im just lazy and more worried about tuning
dude then why waste money on subs just get some decent 6x9's.. pfft
ThesexyMrX 6X9s will never replace a solid 10" sub for what it can produce. A lot of manufacturers are putting subs in now to help with bottom end on their premium sound systems.
i agree, but if you arent considering amping the signal, then replace stock rear speakers, no? speaking on the "not trying to win competitions, just get better audio" comment.. Or are you suggesting a 10 would run decent off the 50w rear channels?
Lmao this video is awkward as fwk lol what was this dude thinking
Wasn't
Wrong or fake troll vid ? Regardless ohm load will fry the deck
specialformula14 Trust me it wasn't fake. I can't make this stuff up. The load probably stepped the head unit down to 2 ohms on the connected channels.
Sketchy bro!
Who the hell does this!
D.Remedy people
I wonder how that sounds lol
Not great
Who did this 😆
some dumbass 20 year old im sure
A person
i think u were just making shit up so u can charge the poor guy labor and for the most powerful amp u can sell him.
jay Tarantula But that amp was only 300 watts RMS.
Hahahahahahaha !!!!!!!!!!
Oh my God you Trolllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll
Yariel Marte How am I being a troll?
Lol max 18w rms to each sub ,so dumb
looked like a shit job even after amp was added hide everything
Thanks for your feedback.
Heh heh!
Thanks for watching!
lol dont do this. I actually blew 3 subs doing this.
Roland Z Thanks for sharing your experience!
😂
This is a New definition of Ghetto system!! Lmmfao did a 5 yr old install this?
Not sure, someone that wasn't shown the proper way or just didn't really care.