I'm glad something on my channel actually helped someone! That's so funny to me but cool. Just some things that will help: -Put some rubber sheets under the base if you're not bolting it down, it will stop it moving when you drive on (and off). -The motor is 10A, so you can rewire it to use a conventional socket. -If you recess it into the floor, cleaning a fluid spill is a nightmare so install drainage. -If you reverse on you drive off forward so you won't get skid marks on the floor. Doesn't bother me, but just an FYI.
Woah! I didn't even know a "mid-rise" scissor lift was a thing! I only knew of the low rise "quick jacks" or a full installed lift. Thanks for posting!
Glad I could help showcase some alternative options to you! I felt the quick jacks were too small and didn't really offer huge benefits over a traditional trolly jack with stands.
Hey mate, just FYI, you have your lift turned backwards. Doesn’t matter much with a Miata, but once you plan to put heavier cars, make sure you turn it around.
@@Bbeavis I have a video about explaining it in more details, but in nutshell, due to the way how scissor lift works, front of the lift can bear more weight. This is the same for any scissor lift. Because most cars are front heavy, the front of the car should be at the front of the lift.
I think he means that the legs that roll up or down is where the rear of the car should hang. The engine side being very heavy should hang over the end that is the stationary pivot. Hope this helps.
Brilliant review! This one is gaining favor in my search for a lift option. As I age, I'm finding that rolling around under a car, on the cold concrete, banging my head into undercarriage, straining muscles while trying to pull on wrenches in limited space...just not going to work for me anymore. The only downside I see are the cross members, blocking ability to roll a stool or creeper fore and aft. I'd love to put in a two post unit and I have the space but those things are just...always there. Decisions! Thanks again, mate, from way up north in the USA.
I installed a two post lift and was thinking it would make the garage feel cramped a bit but it really didn't. A good test it to place two 5 gallon cans where each post will be and just leave them there to see how it feels.
That's a really nice scissor jack lift, only ever seen at a pro garage among many lifts. Ive been considering a 4 post lift for car storage primarily but can be used for work. My friend has one that has a scissor jack option that allows the car to be jacked up while on the lift. Its a pretty cool if space, budget, and headroom allows. Great presentation!
Ah yes I too have seen some 4-post lifts with "add-on" belly pan type scissor lifts. A good way to get benefits of both worlds, but yeah probably more than the average home DIY'er would need. Thanks!
Yeah I don't think I touched on the seemingly obvious idea of extending the ramps and reducing the load angle with some bits of timber, I have considered it, but still my preference is to sink the whole thing down to be flush with the floor.
I imagine you could build a pit, cut out the centre beams, and bolt the main sections to the slab (also set down a bit). My 2 post was $1900. Plus $100 for oil.
Great video and thoughtful explanation of the lift. I was not aware of these mid level lifts. This definitely brings more balance to a standard garage than floor jacks or lower lifting quick jack style lifts.
Those two cross beams on the floor would be a deal breaker for me. Maybe if you do sink it into the floor, you could put a plate over them or something...?
Yeah they are a small inconvenience but haven't been a huge hindrance in my use so far. Indeed with the lift dropped into the floor I could build a cover to effectively hide them.
Can I suggest a small bit of timber under the front wheels when lowering the car, this means the front wheels simply roll straight in the ramp when reversing back off (and help to lift the sill off the lift so it doesn't drag)
Yeah obviously that is an option for making load angle more convenient. But as mentioned in the video my hope is to inset the lift in the floor for a flush fitment.
Have you considered the """portable""" 2 post lifts? They lift about the same height as that scissor lift, but they quickly are unbolted from the anchors in the floor and wheeled out of the way.
Compared to a full size 2 post hoist, yeah, but its still a world nicer to work on than jack stands. And my workshop ceiling it pretty low so I cant get much more height anyway.
Thank you Sir. Great review. I want one for my channel/ garage too. Strange they didn't protect your hydraulic hoses properly for shipping. It probably didn't get unpacked / inspected after it left the factory China. Did you need a forklift to unload from the delivery truck. One company I contacted said shipping requires me to have a forklift to unload. Shipping companies need to do better than that!
@@Bbeavis Well that's great to know, nice work TuffLift using a courier with that ability. Hopefully I will get a scissor sooner than later. Thanks again.
how are those safety locks working with this one because there are no lock button that lowers lift onto locks when raised? cheaper lifts have up/down/lock buttons
it always stays against hydraulic pressure and not locked with mechanical lock when raised? if pressure disappears it will drop 10mm or so? example this one has lock button to lower lift to teeth ruclips.net/video/DXtsi8Sl-Ns/видео.htmlsi=3IZMYDcnlcyY-_cF
No, not really. In general any hoist that requires arms to swing under the car aren't really ideal for me as my cars are small and low. Those arms are always too bulky.
Unless you’re doing something in the wheel well I don’t see this is being useful. You got two big bars in the middle that would block you from doing much else.
Heck yeah bro ... so I got to ask ... what made you choose this over say "quick jacks" that u can slide in and out for storage ?... personally I want a 2 post , but like u say. It's not always that easy as just getting it when u don't own your place or not enuf head room or not a thick enuf slab to bolt to ect. .. I did recently see a 2 post setup that the posts were only like 5' tall .. idk how much lift that would give but I deff dig the idea for a home shop ... good to see ya maken life a lil easier on yaself , cuz let's face it bro , we deff not getting any younger 😅... peace and love fam keep it rad stay safe and build on... l8z brotha and keep having fun
I have quickjacks and if I had more of a permanent home I would get something like this lift. Quick jacks are really not quick because you need to align everything before you lift which takes a lot of time. They are heavy AF so it's a pain to put them in and out for storage especially wall mounting it if your working on your car frequently. With his setup I prob just drive my car and park over it
@@twistedbdo5755 right on and good to know .. ty bro cuz you prolly just saved me a headache... and man I did not know they was that much a pain. I still want a two post, but I recon i might look into a ✂ lift for time being ... good lookout fam .. much respect for that .. peace and love brotha keep it rad stay safe and build on bro and again ty cuz you prolly did save me cuz I was really thinking on some quickjacks just cuz there was nothing in way to be on a creeper under the centerline , and I was thinking for like transmissions and exhaust convenience... l8z bro and thanks for commenting
@mastercricket7626 if you don't have any options, quick jacks are amazing especially for the price compared to other type of lifts, they essentially are the height of around my 6 ton jacks. I have done full exhaust on my r35 easily. Pretty much I'm saying is that preparing the car to lift takes some time if your just doing an oil change ESPECIALLY if you had it stored somewhere. Like I said shits heavy and it isn't easy to roll it around
@@twistedbdo5755 right on .. yeah I'm in a rental atm so can't have anything stationary, but we are trying to buy a home this year so I'm up in air on what to get lol 😂 like if I get a ✂ lift or quick Jack's, cool i ha e portable or do I weight and just get a 2 post once I have my own slab to bolt it down to ya know lol ... deff thanks for the input tho bro cuz I think ya helped me on a choice for the time being .. much love and respect fam and he'll yeah on the r35 bro , have not drove one yet but have seen some gnarly ones .. I want to find a late 70s skyline myself one day (I know im dreaming there lol) idk what it is about the older ones but they got me for some reason 😂.. prolly cuz im a simple dude , to new means to much electronics and not enuf mechanical stuff for me lol but I am learning the electronics side wile slowly tuning my own car (sofar made it to 30psi on a g25-550 so not to bad I guess but I think my timing is stupid conservative cuz no knock sensor )and man is that some shit there lol ... wbu are you into any that side of the tuning and building stuff? (Feel like I met a new car buddy lol)😂
@mastercricket7626 I have my own tuner but been learning how to read logs myself as this is my dedicated track and time attack car. Would like to get into tuning but dont have the time as this is just a hobby and I spend more of my time learning how to drive better. I pretty much doing only the mechanical parts on my car. Still learning and am a newbie as this is my truly first car I'm building but I pretty much built everything myself to where it's at right now , full bolt ons, cooling , suspension, aero etc. Though im adding a half cage/6 point soon so i will prob get a reputable shop that have alot of experience for saftey issues. Haven't done anything really related to electronic stuff. Tbh anything I learn is based on if I have any issues with my own car or if I'm changing out a part. R35 works really well out of the box as a track car so not much needs to be changed.
How did you manage not to damage the pinch welds between the wheelbase of our Miatas? From here it looks like it would have been resting right on them. Maybe I couldn't see if you had a 2×4 under the sides or not.
I've just bought one of these and added the ramps after seeing your video (My car is only 125mm off of the ground). It is excellent and so much easier and better than a trolley jack and stands, I should have done it earlier. Tuff Lift Melbourne. Thanks, great Video. Ramp: ruclips.net/video/Tg9kTYdG1F8/видео.html
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I'm glad something on my channel actually helped someone! That's so funny to me but cool.
Just some things that will help:
-Put some rubber sheets under the base if you're not bolting it down, it will stop it moving when you drive on (and off).
-The motor is 10A, so you can rewire it to use a conventional socket.
-If you recess it into the floor, cleaning a fluid spill is a nightmare so install drainage.
-If you reverse on you drive off forward so you won't get skid marks on the floor. Doesn't bother me, but just an FYI.
Thanks for your prompting, I've used this thing so much already in just the first 6mths of ownership - it's wild I didn't do it sooner.
Woah! I didn't even know a "mid-rise" scissor lift was a thing! I only knew of the low rise "quick jacks" or a full installed lift. Thanks for posting!
Glad I could help showcase some alternative options to you! I felt the quick jacks were too small and didn't really offer huge benefits over a traditional trolly jack with stands.
Hey mate, just FYI, you have your lift turned backwards. Doesn’t matter much with a Miata, but once you plan to put heavier cars, make sure you turn it around.
Can you clarify why you think this?
@@Bbeavis I have a video about explaining it in more details, but in nutshell, due to the way how scissor lift works, front of the lift can bear more weight. This is the same for any scissor lift. Because most cars are front heavy, the front of the car should be at the front of the lift.
I think he means that the legs that roll up or down is where the rear of the car should hang. The engine side being very heavy should hang over the end that is the stationary pivot. Hope this helps.
@@DJKraK007 yes, exactly :)
Love mine. I did build approach and landing ramps for lower ground clearance vehicles that I work on.
I need to build some ramps as well, makes sense
Brilliant review! This one is gaining favor in my search for a lift option. As I age, I'm finding that rolling around under a car, on the cold concrete, banging my head into undercarriage, straining muscles while trying to pull on wrenches in limited space...just not going to work for me anymore. The only downside I see are the cross members, blocking ability to roll a stool or creeper fore and aft. I'd love to put in a two post unit and I have the space but those things are just...always there. Decisions! Thanks again, mate, from way up north in the USA.
Yeah, I understand the frustration with the cross-members! It's a trade-off you need to consider.
I installed a two post lift and was thinking it would make the garage feel cramped a bit but it really didn't. A good test it to place two 5 gallon cans where each post will be and just leave them there to see how it feels.
Good advice! It's all about maximizing the space and having a good flow in the garage.
That's a really nice scissor jack lift, only ever seen at a pro garage among many lifts. Ive been considering a 4 post lift for car storage primarily but can be used for work. My friend has one that has a scissor jack option that allows the car to be jacked up while on the lift. Its a pretty cool if space, budget, and headroom allows. Great presentation!
Ah yes I too have seen some 4-post lifts with "add-on" belly pan type scissor lifts. A good way to get benefits of both worlds, but yeah probably more than the average home DIY'er would need.
Thanks!
Very nice video. May I suggest putting a 2 by 10 board under each front ramp before lowering lift - should make backing off easier
Yeah I don't think I touched on the seemingly obvious idea of extending the ramps and reducing the load angle with some bits of timber, I have considered it, but still my preference is to sink the whole thing down to be flush with the floor.
I imagine you could build a pit, cut out the centre beams, and bolt the main sections to the slab (also set down a bit). My 2 post was $1900. Plus $100 for oil.
I looked at cheap "china-spec" hoists but I'd rather pay more and have something that works, and has local support/warranty.
Great video and thoughtful explanation of the lift. I was not aware of these mid level lifts. This definitely brings more balance to a standard garage than floor jacks or lower lifting quick jack style lifts.
Glad it was helpful!
Literally considered one yesterday and you drop a vid today.
Nice, hope my insight and opinions helped give you some perspective.
Those two cross beams on the floor would be a deal breaker for me. Maybe if you do sink it into the floor, you could put a plate over them or something...?
Yeah they are a small inconvenience but haven't been a huge hindrance in my use so far. Indeed with the lift dropped into the floor I could build a cover to effectively hide them.
Can I suggest a small bit of timber under the front wheels when lowering the car, this means the front wheels simply roll straight in the ramp when reversing back off (and help to lift the sill off the lift so it doesn't drag)
Yeah obviously that is an option for making load angle more convenient. But as mentioned in the video my hope is to inset the lift in the floor for a flush fitment.
@@Bbeavis don't forget that will lower the lift height as well. Spend the money on fuel and tyres instead at the track 👍
Good video. I have been considering the options for this sort of thing. Cheers.
Thanks Yowie.
Have you considered the """portable""" 2 post lifts? They lift about the same height as that scissor lift, but they quickly are unbolted from the anchors in the floor and wheeled out of the way.
The idea of bolting/unbolting doesnt appeal to me. Still seems like a traditional 2 post lift to me.
the height of it seems like a pain, you cant really get under there with a rolling chair you still need another head worth of height
Compared to a full size 2 post hoist, yeah, but its still a world nicer to work on than jack stands. And my workshop ceiling it pretty low so I cant get much more height anyway.
Put spacers underneath the hinged ramp instead of cutting the floor.
Yes that's the easy answer to making load angle better, but doesnt come with the benefits of a flush mounted solution.
Thank you Sir. Great review. I want one for my channel/ garage too. Strange they didn't protect your hydraulic hoses properly for shipping. It probably didn't get unpacked / inspected after it left the factory China. Did you need a forklift to unload from the delivery truck. One company I contacted said shipping requires me to have a forklift to unload. Shipping companies need to do better than that!
The delivery truck had a mounted crane to unload it.
@@Bbeavis Well that's great to know, nice work TuffLift using a courier with that ability. Hopefully I will get a scissor sooner than later. Thanks again.
how are those safety locks working with this one because there are no lock button that lowers lift onto locks when raised? cheaper lifts have up/down/lock buttons
It has limit switches with solenoids to "auto" unlock.
it always stays against hydraulic pressure and not locked with mechanical lock when raised? if pressure disappears it will drop 10mm or so? example this one has lock button to lower lift to teeth ruclips.net/video/DXtsi8Sl-Ns/видео.htmlsi=3IZMYDcnlcyY-_cF
Did they recommend have a 100mm or 150 mm concrete slab
115mm
Did you consider a single post hoist?
No, not really. In general any hoist that requires arms to swing under the car aren't really ideal for me as my cars are small and low. Those arms are always too bulky.
Finger is in the “ buy it now” trigger thx
:-) good luck
I got rid of my quickjack and bought this.
Is this a better job?
Unless you’re doing something in the wheel well I don’t see this is being useful. You got two big bars in the middle that would block you from doing much else.
I've removed engines, gearboxes, diffs, suspension bushes, wheels, brakes.
What more do you want to do that you think you cannot?
Heck yeah bro ... so I got to ask ... what made you choose this over say "quick jacks" that u can slide in and out for storage ?... personally I want a 2 post , but like u say. It's not always that easy as just getting it when u don't own your place or not enuf head room or not a thick enuf slab to bolt to ect. .. I did recently see a 2 post setup that the posts were only like 5' tall .. idk how much lift that would give but I deff dig the idea for a home shop ... good to see ya maken life a lil easier on yaself , cuz let's face it bro , we deff not getting any younger 😅... peace and love fam keep it rad stay safe and build on... l8z brotha and keep having fun
I have quickjacks and if I had more of a permanent home I would get something like this lift. Quick jacks are really not quick because you need to align everything before you lift which takes a lot of time. They are heavy AF so it's a pain to put them in and out for storage especially wall mounting it if your working on your car frequently. With his setup I prob just drive my car and park over it
@@twistedbdo5755 right on and good to know .. ty bro cuz you prolly just saved me a headache... and man I did not know they was that much a pain. I still want a two post, but I recon i might look into a ✂ lift for time being ... good lookout fam .. much respect for that .. peace and love brotha keep it rad stay safe and build on bro and again ty cuz you prolly did save me cuz I was really thinking on some quickjacks just cuz there was nothing in way to be on a creeper under the centerline , and I was thinking for like transmissions and exhaust convenience... l8z bro and thanks for commenting
@mastercricket7626 if you don't have any options, quick jacks are amazing especially for the price compared to other type of lifts, they essentially are the height of around my 6 ton jacks. I have done full exhaust on my r35 easily.
Pretty much I'm saying is that preparing the car to lift takes some time if your just doing an oil change ESPECIALLY if you had it stored somewhere. Like I said shits heavy and it isn't easy to roll it around
@@twistedbdo5755 right on .. yeah I'm in a rental atm so can't have anything stationary, but we are trying to buy a home this year so I'm up in air on what to get lol 😂 like if I get a ✂ lift or quick Jack's, cool i ha e portable or do I weight and just get a 2 post once I have my own slab to bolt it down to ya know lol ... deff thanks for the input tho bro cuz I think ya helped me on a choice for the time being .. much love and respect fam and he'll yeah on the r35 bro , have not drove one yet but have seen some gnarly ones .. I want to find a late 70s skyline myself one day (I know im dreaming there lol) idk what it is about the older ones but they got me for some reason 😂.. prolly cuz im a simple dude , to new means to much electronics and not enuf mechanical stuff for me lol but I am learning the electronics side wile slowly tuning my own car (sofar made it to 30psi on a g25-550 so not to bad I guess but I think my timing is stupid conservative cuz no knock sensor )and man is that some shit there lol ... wbu are you into any that side of the tuning and building stuff? (Feel like I met a new car buddy lol)😂
@mastercricket7626 I have my own tuner but been learning how to read logs myself as this is my dedicated track and time attack car. Would like to get into tuning but dont have the time as this is just a hobby and I spend more of my time learning how to drive better. I pretty much doing only the mechanical parts on my car. Still learning and am a newbie as this is my truly first car I'm building but I pretty much built everything myself to where it's at right now , full bolt ons, cooling , suspension, aero etc. Though im adding a half cage/6 point soon so i will prob get a reputable shop that have alot of experience for saftey issues. Haven't done anything really related to electronic stuff. Tbh anything I learn is based on if I have any issues with my own car or if I'm changing out a part. R35 works really well out of the box as a track car so not much needs to be changed.
Why not a quick jack?
This product better suited my requirements, its more substantial, safer, goes much higher. Quick jack is 'only' about 25% cheaper.
How did you manage not to damage the pinch welds between the wheelbase of our Miatas? From here it looks like it would have been resting right on them. Maybe I couldn't see if you had a 2×4 under the sides or not.
There are rubber blocks on the inner side. But they are only just so high. Works out fine.
@@Bbeavis oh, cool That works out great
Seems is instaled the other way
installed this way so the cross beam doesn't get in your way when working under the engine.
What way do you think it should be setup?
This is the only time
Being dwarf height would be optimal.
As a tall person who never fits comfortably in most cars, theres more than once in my life where I've wanted to be shorter.
Car is wrong way round. Theres a front and back to the lift and youve got the weight on the back, which is dangerous.
The weight is in the middle.
I've just bought one of these and added the ramps after seeing your video (My car is only 125mm off of the ground). It is excellent and so much easier and better than a trolley jack and stands, I should have done it earlier. Tuff Lift Melbourne. Thanks, great Video.
Ramp: ruclips.net/video/Tg9kTYdG1F8/видео.html
Nice. I ended up making some extension ramps in timber for the time being.