Thank you for explaining I watched a video that basically told u to set it at 100 percent white this is very helpful explaining why u don't need to do this
I tried putting the white gradient behind my transfer and it will not put the white behind it, if there are anyway you can tell what i'm doing wrong. Thanks!
Im still using EKPrint demo, haven't purchased full version yet due to only on license per printer type. Have you had any of the issues I heard of using acrorip 10?
No, I haven't had those issues. I run 3 XP15000 and a L1800 every day. I have additional XPs that I run as needed or when I set up new printers for sale and minimal issues. It's mostly where the printer won't take the film and using alcohol on the bottom inch takes care of that in most cases.
You actually do need an underbase of white ink even for white shirts. If there's no white underbase, the shirt will definitely crack/peel after the first wash and even sometimes before it's washed. I've learned this from personal experience.
No you don't. Been printing for 2 years. I never use white under black or if it is going on a white shirt. Never had an issue with cracking or peeling. If your curring process is on point there is no issue. My shirts still look great 2 years later.
@@ssvcustomtransfers DTF printing, correct? Again, I'm strictly referring to printing white ink on a white shirt. Definitely hasn't been the case for me. If I print a large multicolor image without using white ink on a white shirt it's always cracked very quickly. I always use quality inks, powder, and film, so that can't be the issue. I doubt it's my method of curing either because I have no issues using a white underbase. If I may ask, what rip program are you using and what are your color ink percentages if you're printing on a white shirt? Thanks!
@@josealicea3765 yes, DTF printing. You are probably curring after the ink it to dry. When no white ink, powder and cure about 5 min after printing. Cure at 260f
Acrorip 10 is a waste of money, Their support team doesn't exist. On P600 DTG you can't print True Black by using Black ink only, It uses CMY +K to create black and the funny thing is that (on P600 ) it will shoot Black ink first and the CMY on the top of black which makes black look dull (lol).
Every RIP does this. DTF, DTG and white toner. If you aren't getting good results you need to look to your process, settings and ink brand. Every printer/ink/film combo is different. I get fantastic black on all my prints. I use 8% K on the L1800, 10% on the XP15000 and 8% on the P600. I also use an ICC profile.
@@ssvcustomtransfers Thanks Team, Miss understand. The above settings are for DTF (the hobbies thing? - lol), we only use DTF (refurb XP15000 - lol) for neck tags. So let stick with DTG, please. No problem with L1800s (fantastic black by using any RIP). Trouble: Somehow P600s + R3000 shots a Black ink 1st, then C + M lastly, Y ( Y Y Now - lol). I can see my Y sitting on the top layer, which makes my black look faded. Looking forward to having control setting of ink coming out from the printhead need (instead of physically moving the carts.) Now the Worst: Acrorip doesn't have TECH support (lol). I request my seller (Mr. DTGpro) on Nov 7th and still no response. Again, it's not about Settings (just guessing - lol) BTW, we DTG 4000+ within a week, every 2nd month (just for our company, definitely not open for public - lol), may give you an idea of my experience with P600s and L1800s running on 20’ Tracks, lol). BTW, Great video and keep up the good work. If you find a solution or any hidden settings in 10.4, please share since Team AcroRIP is useless (lol). Edit: I see, you Online Store Try asking them if they have any setting somewhere. I am still waiting for 3+ weeks (lol).
I tried putting the white gradient behind my transfer and it will not put the white behind it, if there are anyway you can tell what i'm doing wrong. Thanks!
Now i know how to use the gradient settings. Thank you very much
Where do you get your ink for the L1800?
Thank you for explaining I watched a video that basically told u to set it at 100 percent white this is very helpful explaining why u don't need to do this
Hey My white is not printing. What setting am i getting wrong.
I tried putting the white gradient behind my transfer and it will not put the white behind it, if there are anyway you can tell what i'm doing wrong. Thanks!
I have the 8550 and this program and I can't get the white ink to print. I am tried everything. Can you please me out?
Thank you so much. I didn’t know what I was doing.
So if I’m printing black lettering over white, in order to keep the black from bleeding in to the white letters I would use gradient?
Hi when I set 100% White when print no White comes out
Nozzle check shows white? If yes then you need to check your settings. You have white turned off somewhere.
what is better for DTF halftone printing? Gradient white or 100%white?
Definitely gradient white
@@ssvcustomtransfers thank you for the fast reply!
I hear acrorip doesnt work for the XP-15000, does it work for you?
I haven't had any major issues with it.
Im still using EKPrint demo, haven't purchased full version yet due to only on license per printer type. Have you had any of the issues I heard of using acrorip 10?
No, I haven't had those issues. I run 3 XP15000 and a L1800 every day. I have additional XPs that I run as needed or when I set up new printers for sale and minimal issues. It's mostly where the printer won't take the film and using alcohol on the bottom inch takes care of that in most cases.
Thank you 🙏🏼
nice video thanks
You actually do need an underbase of white ink even for white shirts. If there's no white underbase, the shirt will definitely crack/peel after the first wash and even sometimes before it's washed. I've learned this from personal experience.
No you don't. Been printing for 2 years. I never use white under black or if it is going on a white shirt. Never had an issue with cracking or peeling. If your curring process is on point there is no issue. My shirts still look great 2 years later.
@@ssvcustomtransfers DTF printing, correct? Again, I'm strictly referring to printing white ink on a white shirt. Definitely hasn't been the case for me. If I print a large multicolor image without using white ink on a white shirt it's always cracked very quickly. I always use quality inks, powder, and film, so that can't be the issue. I doubt it's my method of curing either because I have no issues using a white underbase. If I may ask, what rip program are you using and what are your color ink percentages if you're printing on a white shirt? Thanks!
@@josealicea3765 yes, DTF printing. You are probably curring after the ink it to dry. When no white ink, powder and cure about 5 min after printing. Cure at 260f
@@ssvcustomtransfers thanks, I'll try this out!
@Jose, I have been told the same of the importance of white ink. I’m curious to see her t-shirts after 2 years later
Acrorip 10 is a waste of money, Their support team doesn't exist. On P600 DTG you can't print True Black by using Black ink only, It uses CMY +K to create black and the funny thing is that (on P600 ) it will shoot Black ink first and the CMY on the top of black which makes black look dull (lol).
Every RIP does this. DTF, DTG and white toner. If you aren't getting good results you need to look to your process, settings and ink brand. Every printer/ink/film combo is different. I get fantastic black on all my prints. I use 8% K on the L1800, 10% on the XP15000 and 8% on the P600. I also use an ICC profile.
@@ssvcustomtransfers Thanks Team,
Miss understand. The above settings are for DTF (the hobbies thing? - lol), we only use DTF (refurb XP15000 - lol) for neck tags.
So let stick with DTG, please. No problem with L1800s (fantastic black by using any RIP).
Trouble:
Somehow P600s + R3000 shots a Black ink 1st, then C + M lastly, Y ( Y Y Now - lol). I can see my Y sitting on the top layer, which makes my black look faded. Looking forward to having control setting of ink coming out from the printhead need (instead of physically moving the carts.)
Now the Worst:
Acrorip doesn't have TECH support (lol). I request my seller (Mr. DTGpro) on Nov 7th and still no response. Again, it's not about Settings (just guessing - lol)
BTW, we DTG 4000+ within a week, every 2nd month (just for our company, definitely not open for public - lol), may give you an idea of my experience with P600s and L1800s running on 20’ Tracks, lol).
BTW, Great video and keep up the good work. If you find a solution or any hidden settings in 10.4, please share since Team AcroRIP is useless (lol).
Edit:
I see, you Online Store Try asking them if they have any setting somewhere. I am still waiting for 3+ weeks (lol).
I tried putting the white gradient behind my transfer and it will not put the white behind it, if there are anyway you can tell what i'm doing wrong. Thanks!