Thank you so much! Yesterday I had a nightmare installing my new bathroom vanity to my horror as I was pulling the old one out I hit the CPVC shutoff for my sink and water was gushing everywhere. I frantically ran to the main shutoff and cut my water. Everyone should have an extra water shutoff by there house not just at the street. After cleaning up an inch and a half of water from my bathroom with a shop vac I watched your video and realized how easy a repair this could be. The next day I went to my hardware store and got all the parts for the repair it worked just like you described . I was able to hacksaw off the pipe reconnect a new CPVC shutoff and it worked like a charm not one drop and no hundreds or even a thousand dollars for an emergency repair. THANK YOU SO MUCH!
Such a great tutorial! We just did exactly the same thing to break our toilet cpvc pipe inside the wall. Your tutorial is extremely helpful! Thank you!
Similar thing happened to me, but under the kitchen sink. The shut off valve was leaking. Used a tiny bit of force to undo the compression nut and the CPVC cracked. Turned off the water main to the house, got everything I needed from the nearest home improvement store, fixed it all up, turned the water main back on and water sprayed everywhere in the basement about 10 feet away from the hot water heater from a T intersection. The simple act of turning on the water too fast caused the new leak. Now I take my time with the water main valve: turn a tiny bit until you start to hear water, wait 10 seconds, turn tiny bit more, wait 10 secs, etc... until valve is fully opened. Figured opening it slowly couldn't hurt.
I had an active leak in my crawl space. This video gave me the confidence to try and fix the leak myself rather than wait a week or longer for a plumber to come out and fix it... Took your advice and just slow cut the CPVC with a hack saw and miraculously didn’t have any problems. Just discovered a new leak now similar to the fix you did in the video so looking forward to fixing that (NOT). Unfortunately, my house has a bunch of 15-20 year old CPVC so I am afraid this is going to be a trend going forward 🤦♂️
Really great tutorial!! Finding these CPVCs are cracking on just about every valve that we touch in a large 300 unit property. This is exactly what we have to do to replace them. Appreciate the thorough explanation you give here. 👌
All of us Home Owners that have this CPVC pipe in our homes should start a massive Law Suit against the company's that made this CPVC pipe. This happened a few years ago against company's that made aluminum electric wire that was put into a lot of homes that the experts said were in danger of catching fire because of the aluminum wire. So if our homes are in danger of flooding because of this crappie CPVC pipe then I think we need to start a major Law Suit.
You use manual cutters if I can call it that. Do not use the copper cutters that snap on and automatically create pressure to keep cutting through the copper via a spring mechanism or whatever. You have to use the old style, slowly increasing pressure as you make your rounds around the cpvc pipe.
Yes, just keep thinking of the CPVC as a potato chip and handle it accordingly. NexT time we do this, we will not attempt to loosen the compression water valve, we will simply cut it off the pipe with that gentle hand held hack saw you saw us using in this video.
Just finished a senior apartment renovation in Baltimore and had to deal with 30 year old CPVC. I found that while saw cutting was generally effective, it occasionally caused other breaks and you also had to contend with added debris in the line. My preferred method was to use my copper tube cutters, either mini or tightspace Lenox tube cutters.
I'm learning a lot here. Jeff is laid back and explains things real well. I'm now more confident to replace my kitchen sink, garbage disposal, utility sink, and pipe it all together. I could call a plumber but want to do it myself even if it costs me the same or more. I cut my new pvc to size by placing a small piece of pvc pipe into my small miter saw- box,held it with one hand and cut it with a hack saw for a smooth cut. I also cut longer pieces with a an electric miter saw-which gave it a nice cut as well. I was thinking about using my old (pvc 30 years old) for cutting practice but after seeing this video I'm glad I didn't try that b/c it would likely crack and I would have blamed myself for it hehe
I'm a mechanic and I've found that if I have to put a lot of pressure on a nut or bolt like you were on the shut off valve without putting any torque on the whole thing (or bashing your knuckles) if it slips that it's best to position both wrenches side by side so that you can hold both in one hand and squeeze them together (like scissors), that way if one slips you don't yank on the other wrench like you would if you use a hand on each wrench. From the angle of the wrenches I deduced that you were pulling with one hand and pushing with the other. I don't mean to be a nudge but you forgot to put the brace back on the new pipe and you should have mentioned after using a hacksaw it's important to sand or use a deburring tool on the pipe before putting the fitting on.
I just cut a hole in wall to run some wire and put piece back in. So just saw your fix and I do it different. I cut the hole with my roto tool, I keep the piece. after I am done inside, i slide the piece of wood in there as backing, now different wood gives you different results, use a 2x3 solid piece of wood so the screw grabs nicely. I have tried to use wood laying around and failed to screw in many times with certain scraps of wood. I then screw the drywall piece back in but before that I put a thin amount of calking adhesive on back of piece. So what I have left is a piece with an 1/8 of an inch of open grove around the edges. I even remove the screws sometimes as tye adhesive holds better and a screw hole is easy to cover.Sometime i use one screw. I then take my adhesive calking and fill the grove and use a wet paper towel to clean it up. So the only thing that stand out is that thin line. If you want to you can put a little spalking on top of the dry calk and sand lightly. The reason I do it this way is because my wall has a texture and just sanding it flat you can see the patch. I hate spraying texture, the stuff you buy is awful to work with. The funny thing is my son this week went into my attic and fell through in the garage. I didnt know he was going up there at the time so I had to fix that too god what a pain.People charge like $700 to fix that kind of stuff minimum. I used simular technic on the ceiling. Since I also had easy access to the top of the drywall in the garage, After the pieces were back in place, I took some great stuff foam and sprayed where the wood and drywall met. This makes a really strong repair. I really suck at drywall repair, I can barely get a clean fix but I am getting a lot better with practice. The worse part is the paint never, never matches.
I have a suggestion regarding the escutcheon. Place one with a 1/4" or 1/2" depth onto the CPVC prior to solvent welding on the valve. Use blue tape to keep it up against the valve temporarily. Apply Loctite into the drywall hole and a generous amount around the hole. Push on the escutcheon. The blob of Loctite now fills the gap between the inside of the escutcheon and the wall, and holds the escutcheon in place. Wipe off the excess. Such an arrangement would provide extreme added rigidity in addition to the Loctite within the drywall that you demonstrated. Blue tape the escutcheon if needed for sanding a painting the drywall around it.
I learned a new way to put put a dry wall patch. It's called a butterfly patch. I do like your method because you don't need to go buy drywall. Awsome video Jeff!
I live in Phoenix and have had cpvc Crack. Then during repair moving the pipe cracked 2 other points. Most cracks happen at joints. An article I read said they had the same experience. I plan to remove and replace asap. Just a bump could Crack pipes and have water all over. I am very concerned about pipes breaking while nobody is home.
The best way I found so far to cut CPVC pipe is to use one of those old tubing cutter the one that you place on the pipe and turn the tubing cutter around the pipe a little at a time then tighten the little knob down a little more and go around the pipe a few times then tighten a little more go around a few more times and repeat until you cut through the pipe you will get smooth even cuts and no chipping.
here is a tip that anyone can try that might help. when removing an old shut off valve, try using some liquid wrench penetrating oil and spray a good amount in the threads in and around the nut and let it soak into the threads for a while, at least for a couple hours, first before attempting to loosen the nut. liquid wrench penetrating oil is really good at seeping through threads to help break lose old seized nuts and bolts. using liquid wrench penetrating oil should make it easier to remove the nut, because an old shut off valve nut will tend to seize around the threads and can make it a pain to get off. as you saw in this video, if you apply a decent amount of torque on an cpvc pipe, especially an old one, it can snap the cpvc right off the T. i've used this method before when replacing an old shut off valve on an old cpvc pipe and it worked without breaking the cpvc pipe. Now the best method is to just cut the cpvc pipe itself and place a new valve on it, but if you don't have enough room on your cpvc to do that then you can try this method.
My homeowners insurance company strongly recommends upgrading the stiff plastic water lines below the toilets to the new-style braided ones. They say the new style has much less risk of rupturing. I don't know if that's true. But what I am truly afraid of is cracking the CPVC water supply pipes behind the walls while conducting these upgrades (I have six bathrooms, home built in 2011, south of you in M-D County.). Applying just a little torque to loosen the nut will result in a bending moment to the CPVC, potentially enough to crack it, even if the other hand holds the protruding pipe motionless. In the event the upgrade causes a **latent** crack, upon filing a claim for water damage, homeowners insurance will blame the plumber for improper technique. Plumber's insurer will blame the original subcontractor who installed CPVC throughout the residence rather than copper. Subcontractor will blame the general contractor who specified CPVC. General contractor will blame the architect who indicated CPVC on the plumbing "blueprints". Architect will blame the MEP subcontracting architect for the same reason. In the end, I will have to pay for everything. Accordingly, I have decided not to touch the plastic water lines below the toilets unless and until there is a rupture. What would you do? Other than turning off the main water valve outside when going on vacation !
didnt come in houses till early 90s in ca my 1972 travel trailer had it though still is used today. 35 years for galvie nothin to brag about. some goes twice that. but 40 years aint bad
Milwaukee's PEX Tubing cutter works on old CPVC. Im doing this right now on 3/4" cpvc, but in a harder place. Elbow broke at the bend, was installed too close to the surface of the wall plate, in the attic, most likely because it didnt have enough stickout past the wood plate and isolator causing, from my observation, the bend in the elbow to flex from building and pipe movement over the course of 16years. Looking for a solution to remove the glued on part that is still touching the plate. I was able to use milwaukee PEX tubing cutter to not shatter the run going horizontal; this cutter doesnt have a ratcheting, electro or other mechanism for the knife cutting action, just hand pressure to slowly cut. I hope I can find a howto on removing that bit of elbow still sticking out of the plate.
not sure why so brittle, but I am suspecting where I see issues is heavy chlorinated public water supplies. Well systems not so much. In fact my parents house about to move back into, build 1970 Dad built himself and used CPVC back then was new to the area but approved, no leaks breaks or issues so far. Only reason most will get replaced is remodeling and fixtures moving and since a high crawl space can get to everything we are just going to re plumb but is still in great shape.
On the way out from work today I noticed the EGO mowers were reduced by roughly $150. Might be a good time to pick one up. You could probably make a deal on the display model if there are none available since they're not coming back. Also, the peanut oil was on a pallet - Thanksgiving around the corner.
So I have cpvc and it is over 25 years old. Should I be replacing it with something either than cpvc when I have to make repairs? If I do replace it what should I use?
Greetings Jeff great video I just subscribed your Channel. Woke up to a busted toilet valve water everywhere this morning. Damn CPVC! I've been here before I suggest using one of the 30,000 rpm oscillating tools Fein, Dremel, Dewalt etc. with a fine-tooth blade. That seemed to cut even better than handheld hacksaw.
I would not recommend that due to toxic fumes. I never liked the idea of heating up plastic type pipes, or imagine what other tolerance issues it might cause by deforming the plastic
So your solution is to use a fine tooth saw blade? I tried that when my shutoff valve snapped during a faucet replacement and the teeth just got caught no matter how fine they were. Also you only demonstrated cutting a pipe thats running parallel to you, you didn't try it on a pipe that's sticking out of the wall like under a sink cabinet where there's no room to get any leverage. I found that a auto copper pipe cutter did a much better job.
So in the basement of what we call the clubhouse is the inground pool pump filter and such. The pipes that are made from PVC go through a concrete wall that's a foot thick. One of the pipes broke off inside the wall where I can't reach it. Is there any way to splice this or repair it without cutting a hole through the concrete?
You need a bit like this one: homedepot.sjv.io/9WL4P5 you just need to buy the right size that will ream out only the plastic of the pipe, even if it was inside another pipe.
Can you use a Tubing Cutter on CPVC? You know, the kind that you spin around the pipe and rotate the circular blade knob after each revolution until cut.
It was difficult to get behind the plumber to get it all filmed perfectly, very cramped small bathroom. But you can see how we re-routed the pipes to put the fittings on.
Place the two 90's on the water pipe first, join the top two 90's, then drop them into the bottom 90's in one piece; no flexing occurs. Of course everything must be measured and dry fitted beforehand.
Have you done an outdoor hose bib? Curious on how it is down here just moved from md and the codes and plumbing are wayyyy different use to having a basement with some copper soldered together. Thanks for the videos bro
wow jeff, talk about a rough day on the job. I hopped on youtube to gain some confidence before I started my next diy job in a couple of days. i think i started with the wrong video.
I think you may be on to something as I live in a 40 year old house and just did some renovations and repairs from a kitchen fire with none of these problems. All the original CPVC is Genova
Only if you bury it but even then I've dug up buried sprinkler lines that wood made with PVC pipe and they're still brittle they just suck. For whatever reason these pipes get very brittle overtime. I would never use CPVC for any purpose because I've seen enough failures from it over the years.
Had bathtub fill spout get hit with a shampoo bottle and shatter at the L inside the wall is there anyway to take out the little bit of 1/2 inch pipe left in the L? If not I’m guessing I’ll have to open the wall behind the shower. I’m In plumbing hell.
I would rather open the wall behind the shower, much easier to patch up, and some plumbers carry special drill bits that you stick into the 90 degree fitting and it reams out the plastic slowing eroding the broken piece until you are left with the original diameter hole, then you cement in a new part. But, I think this would be too much vibration on this system and it would shatter in other parts nearby, so to me cutting the wall, and gently slicing out the bad 90 degree part, and cementing in a new one is the better choice.
I found your channel from your holiday deal videos. You have great stuff in this collection. Thank-you for the knowledge 👍. From one Floridian to another 🥂. I have family down in boca, I'm in north FL. Thanks again!! P.S. IF you find a deal ON a battery powered nailgun/brad nailer let me know please 🙏. I watch when I can 👍
What really makes me mad I don't recall the makers of this pvc and cpvc ever having a disclaimer that the stuff dry rots after 10- 15 yrs.! Now, you've got all this piping in your walls of your house and it's not going to be an easy task and expensive to go in replace it! They knew that houses are made for a lifetime and should never allowed or promoted it for plumbing house's! They should be held accountable and compensate homeowners that used it in there homes!
@@jeffostroff You would think they did some testing prior to putting it out on the market.? But, if they did no long term testing on the pipe I guess they would not know.? There are an awfully good amount of houses out there plumbed with cpvc! That's not an easy fix! Some places damn near impossible!
Most of this is caused by high water chlorine content like u mention d , one thing I’d like to know is the life expectancy of pex ( whatever type ) in 10 , 15 years etc guess we will find out ! Wonder if pex etc will get “ brittle “ ? My cpvc lasted about 24 years , needs replacement ( unfortunately it’s a 2 story lots of dry wall to cut ) one thing though it’s much cheaper to buy , especially the fittings ( cpvc) hold on a plumber that does dry wall ! Lol
@@ThisOldMan65 I have same concerns, because we have polybutylene pipes and It was billed as the plumbing of the future back in 1970s, so I hope people have done advance life tests on pex plastic pipes, as chlorine breaks havoc on plastic pipes
I would be too nervous that it's going to break from all of the vibration nothing beats using the little hand saw trying to figure out exactly what's happening and just sawing very gently back and forth until you get through it ,
@@jeffostroff got it to work properly and I turned our water on and it works perfectly! Had snapped from as you said the gnawing away of the pipe. Works like a charm now.
Does it matter if you use mesh or paper drywall tape? I already have a roll of mesh, so I would rather use it, but I noticed that you used paper tape. Thanks, Jeff!
No, it would have shattered it, those hacksaws remember have a sort of orbit to the movement. You need slow light and gentle from a manual hack saw. Only use the electric saws to slash through old pipe just to remove it all.
Of course we did all sorts of testing I didn't even patch the drywall until the next day because I wanted to make sure there was no leaks. We even tested turning the main water back on because the pressure from just turning it on is what caused the second section to crack in the first place so now we're very careful when we turn water back on we do it slowly
I'm so glad my house doesn't have that type of plastic pipe. I have a house that was build in the 50's. The only thing I have problems here is with the drains.
I have to do a toilet valve tomorrow and I have cPVC and don’t have much room for error! I am going to try to saw 🪚 close to the fitting and because of your advice I will leave the clippers in the toolbox 🧰 thank for the help!
@@jeffostroff yeah I used a 4 inch grinder just yesterday on old cpvc and it never cracks and goes so fast. I started by using a cheap grinder from harbor freight and then upgraded to a battery powered one.
I wish I would never put cpvc in my home! Had I known how crappy cpvc becomes after 10 yrs. of use! It should never been allowed to be used in home water piping! The manufacturer should be ashamed of theirselves and should be held accountable for all the headaches and cost that they have caused home owners to endure!
The highly intelligent people that installed the water lines in our foundation didn’t separate the cheap CPVC pipes on the Hot side but they did on the cold side, drove a piece of standard conduit down beside them to hold it in place during concrete pour… someone made a fortune off this cheap stuff!!
Why wasn't the manufacturer's of PVC and CPVC being held accountable for not letting the consumer know that if using for home plumbing that it has a lifespan that is shorter than the lifespan of your home!??
Why not use a quarter-turn valve instead of the plastic-handle multi-turn valve? They might cost a few dollars more, but the part you have to grasp to turn the valve will never crack.
Unfortunately I didn't see your comment and flooded my entire kitchen before I could get the water turned off. Lol! Thank God I had a wet/dry vac that helped.
My house I built is piped all with CPVC (built in 60s) . Last night after I got off work a capped off Cpvc line cracked just above the cap and hot water was spraying everywhere. Overall the plumbing is still in good condition . I just be careful if I ever have to turn off the main valve . We have a cellar basement and 80% of the plumbing is over head in the basement; so I’m thinking of repiping the whole house at some point
After 25 yrs of plumbing I wished I had 1 dollar for every repair I done on cpvc pipe. I also know if you use a little pvc cleaner on the old cpvc will soften it and help cut it with a hand saw. And right Never a good idea to use a compresson fitting on cpvc. And home owners leave your plumbing repairs to the experienced professional plumbers
Heat gun and an occulting saw with a round blade. If we heat the cpvc by just barely warming it and using an occulting saw I’ve yet to shatter any old plumbing. Hacksaw? Are you kidding me? Definitely will get the blade caught and break something..
@@jeffostroff -- Well, I knew that you COULD use it for both -- just like you COULD use a 3000 psi hydraulic line for your home air compressor -- but it's a bit overkill... PVC is restricted by many building codes to no more than 140F whereas CPVC is good for 200F... I'm not sure there is any one PERFECT piping system... Each has it's drawbacks and nothing is going to last *forever*... A lot of our problems could be eliminated if we didn't hide our plumbing (and electrical wiring) in walls and ceilings...
Yes, not the 3" cut off tools like the Ryobi that we tested in a previous video, because they can only cut 1/2" deep. But larger 4" and above grinders should work good
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I was really nervous on that drywall. You've given me hope for my restroom.Thank you!
Thank you so much! Yesterday I had a nightmare installing my new bathroom vanity to my horror as I was pulling the old one out I hit the CPVC shutoff for my sink and water was gushing everywhere. I frantically ran to the main shutoff and cut my water. Everyone should have an extra water shutoff by there house not just at the street. After cleaning up an inch and a half of water from my bathroom with a shop vac I watched your video and realized how easy a repair this could be. The next day I went to my hardware store and got all the parts for the repair it worked just like you described . I was able to hacksaw off the pipe reconnect a new CPVC shutoff and it worked like a charm not one drop and no hundreds or even a thousand dollars for an emergency repair. THANK YOU SO MUCH!
Such a great tutorial! We just did exactly the same thing to break our toilet cpvc pipe inside the wall. Your tutorial is extremely helpful! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Similar thing happened to me, but under the kitchen sink. The shut off valve was leaking. Used a tiny bit of force to undo the compression nut and the CPVC cracked. Turned off the water main to the house, got everything I needed from the nearest home improvement store, fixed it all up, turned the water main back on and water sprayed everywhere in the basement about 10 feet away from the hot water heater from a T intersection. The simple act of turning on the water too fast caused the new leak. Now I take my time with the water main valve: turn a tiny bit until you start to hear water, wait 10 seconds, turn tiny bit more, wait 10 secs, etc... until valve is fully opened. Figured opening it slowly couldn't hurt.
Yup, exactly what we do now, it's a good practice on any plumbing system.
I had an active leak in my crawl space. This video gave me the confidence to try and fix the leak myself rather than wait a week or longer for a plumber to come out and fix it... Took your advice and just slow cut the CPVC with a hack saw and miraculously didn’t have any problems. Just discovered a new leak now similar to the fix you did in the video so looking forward to fixing that (NOT). Unfortunately, my house has a bunch of 15-20 year old CPVC so I am afraid this is going to be a trend going forward 🤦♂️
the more you fix it, the more you can charge other people to fix theirs! Or that might be too risky...
Really great tutorial!! Finding these CPVCs are cracking on just about every valve that we touch in a large 300 unit property. This is exactly what we have to do to replace them. Appreciate the thorough explanation you give here. 👌
At least it provides you job security!
All of us Home Owners that have this CPVC pipe in our homes should start a massive Law Suit against the company's that made this CPVC pipe. This happened a few years ago against company's that made aluminum electric wire that was put into a lot of homes that the experts said were in danger of catching fire because of the aluminum wire. So if our homes are in danger of flooding because of this crappie CPVC pipe then I think we need to start a major Law Suit.
Jeff, I run into this situation all the time, I use copper cutters to make nice cuts on old cpvc, it also gives you a nice square cut.
You mean like the Autocut?
I was omw to say it, glad to hear you say it. It's a beautiful trick.
You use manual cutters if I can call it that. Do not use the copper cutters that snap on and automatically create pressure to keep cutting through the copper via a spring mechanism or whatever. You have to use the old style, slowly increasing pressure as you make your rounds around the cpvc pipe.
Copper cutters AKA tubing cutters for us old mechanics?
It's always good to see you doing videos to help the average man do work on his home thanks Jeff keep up the good work keep the videos coming
Thanks 👍
Great video. I’m struggling right now with brittle pipes in kitchen. Can’t get pipe to cut straight in the wall. Thanks for the tips!
Every simple CPVC repair I’ve ever seen has turned into a nightmare.
Yes, just keep thinking of the CPVC as a potato chip and handle it accordingly. NexT time we do this, we will not attempt to loosen the compression water valve, we will simply cut it off the pipe with that gentle hand held hack saw you saw us using in this video.
Just finished a senior apartment renovation in Baltimore and had to deal with 30 year old CPVC. I found that while saw cutting was generally effective, it occasionally caused other breaks and you also had to contend with added debris in the line. My preferred method was to use my copper tube cutters, either mini or tightspace Lenox tube cutters.
It might try the autocut on some spare old pieces.
Milwaukee's PEX tubing cutter worked for me; just have to press very slowly
I am here because earlier I broke my cpvc pipe lol. He made it so easy 😍. Thanks for sharing. Subscribed.
Glad to help and welcome aboard!
I'm learning a lot here. Jeff is laid back and explains things real well. I'm now more confident to replace my kitchen sink, garbage disposal, utility sink, and pipe it all together. I could call a plumber but want to do it myself even if it costs me the same or more. I cut my new pvc to size by placing a small piece of pvc pipe into my small miter saw- box,held it with one hand and cut it with a hack saw for a smooth cut. I also cut longer pieces with a an electric miter saw-which gave it a nice cut as well. I was thinking about using my old (pvc 30 years old) for cutting practice but after seeing this video I'm glad I didn't try that b/c it would likely crack and I would have blamed myself for it hehe
On the job training, yes that is the best teacher
I'm a mechanic and I've found that if I have to put a lot of pressure on a nut or bolt like you were on the shut off valve without putting any torque on the whole thing (or bashing your knuckles) if it slips that it's best to position both wrenches side by side so that you can hold both in one hand and squeeze them together (like scissors), that way if one slips you don't yank on the other wrench like you would if you use a hand on each wrench. From the angle of the wrenches I deduced that you were pulling with one hand and pushing with the other. I don't mean to be a nudge but you forgot to put the brace back on the new pipe and you should have mentioned after using a hacksaw it's important to sand or use a deburring tool on the pipe before putting the fitting on.
Yes good points.
I just cut a hole in wall to run some wire and put piece back in. So just saw your fix and I do it different.
I cut the hole with my roto tool, I keep the piece. after I am done inside, i slide the piece of wood in there as backing, now different wood gives you different results, use a 2x3 solid piece of wood so the screw grabs nicely. I have tried to use wood laying around and failed to screw in many times with certain scraps of wood.
I then screw the drywall piece back in but before that I put a thin amount of calking adhesive on back of piece. So what I have left is a piece with an 1/8 of an inch of open grove around the edges. I even remove the screws sometimes as tye adhesive holds better and a screw hole is easy to cover.Sometime i use one screw. I then take my adhesive calking and fill the grove and use a wet paper towel to clean it up. So the only thing that stand out is that thin line. If you want to you can put a little spalking on top of the dry calk and sand lightly. The reason I do it this way is because my wall has a texture and just sanding it flat you can see the patch. I hate spraying texture, the stuff you buy is awful to work with.
The funny thing is my son this week went into my attic and fell through in the garage. I didnt know he was going up there at the time so I had to fix that too god what a pain.People charge like $700 to fix that kind of stuff minimum. I used simular technic on the ceiling. Since I also had easy access to the top of the drywall in the garage, After the pieces were back in place, I took some great stuff foam and sprayed where the wood and drywall met. This makes a really strong repair.
I really suck at drywall repair, I can barely get a clean fix but I am getting a lot better with practice. The worse part is the paint never, never matches.
Yes, for big holes on the ceiling I use 2 x 4's.
I have a suggestion regarding the escutcheon. Place one with a 1/4" or 1/2" depth onto the CPVC prior to solvent welding on the valve. Use blue tape to keep it up against the valve temporarily. Apply Loctite into the drywall hole and a generous amount around the hole. Push on the escutcheon. The blob of Loctite now fills the gap between the inside of the escutcheon and the wall, and holds the escutcheon in place. Wipe off the excess. Such an arrangement would provide extreme added rigidity in addition to the Loctite within the drywall that you demonstrated. Blue tape the escutcheon if needed for sanding a painting the drywall around it.
Good stuff very detailed. Mine broke at an exterior facing wall so I had to break cement away. Major pain. How should I replace cement?
Depending on the size of the hole, just mix up concrete and stuff it in there to fill it out, then smooth it on the outside
I learned a new way to put put a dry wall patch. It's called a butterfly patch. I do like your method because you don't need to go buy drywall. Awsome video Jeff!
Glad to help out Alfredo!
I can always count on you for great advice, Jeff. Good show!
I appreciate that! thanks Lala land!
Well Jeff I go in for surgery for another stint in about 3 hours just catching up on my peeps on my RUclips keep up the good work
Hope you do OK Randy!
There's treat for those who stick around till the end 😊
I live in Phoenix and have had cpvc Crack. Then during repair moving the pipe cracked 2 other points. Most cracks happen at joints. An article I read said they had the same experience. I plan to remove and replace asap. Just a bump could Crack pipes and have water all over. I am very concerned about pipes breaking while nobody is home.
In our case here, after the repair, turning the water back on caused another crack! Turn on the water slowly don't let it rush in like copper pipes.
Very nicely done my Friend 👍👍😊😁 Great Tips also. Thanks again for sharing your thoughts and videos Rodney
Glad you enjoyed it Rodney!
People in my area still love using it, personally I like PEX A or optionally PEX B with poly alloy fittings. PEX A in it's various brands is my fav.
Yes Pex A is what most of the plumbers like.
The best way I found so far to cut CPVC pipe is to use one of those old tubing cutter the one that you place on the pipe and turn the tubing cutter around the pipe a little at a time then tighten the little knob down a little more and go around the pipe a few times then tighten a little more go around a few more times and repeat until you cut through the pipe you will get smooth even cuts and no chipping.
here is a tip that anyone can try that might help. when removing an old shut off valve, try using some liquid wrench penetrating oil and spray a good amount in the threads in and around the nut and let it soak into the threads for a while, at least for a couple hours, first before attempting to loosen the nut. liquid wrench penetrating oil is really good at seeping through threads to help break lose old seized nuts and bolts. using liquid wrench penetrating oil should make it easier to remove the nut, because an old shut off valve nut will tend to seize around the threads and can make it a pain to get off. as you saw in this video, if you apply a decent amount of torque on an cpvc pipe, especially an old one, it can snap the cpvc right off the T. i've used this method before when replacing an old shut off valve on an old cpvc pipe and it worked without breaking the cpvc pipe. Now the best method is to just cut the cpvc pipe itself and place a new valve on it, but if you don't have enough room on your cpvc to do that then you can try this method.
Thanks Steel City!
My homeowners insurance company strongly recommends upgrading the stiff plastic water lines below the toilets to the new-style braided ones. They say the new style has much less risk of rupturing. I don't know if that's true. But what I am truly afraid of is cracking the CPVC water supply pipes behind the walls while conducting these upgrades (I have six bathrooms, home built in 2011, south of you in M-D County.). Applying just a little torque to loosen the nut will result in a bending moment to the CPVC, potentially enough to crack it, even if the other hand holds the protruding pipe motionless.
In the event the upgrade causes a **latent** crack, upon filing a claim for water damage, homeowners insurance will blame the plumber for improper technique. Plumber's insurer will blame the original subcontractor who installed CPVC throughout the residence rather than copper. Subcontractor will blame the general contractor who specified CPVC. General contractor will blame the architect who indicated CPVC on the plumbing "blueprints". Architect will blame the MEP subcontracting architect for the same reason. In the end, I will have to pay for everything.
Accordingly, I have decided not to touch the plastic water lines below the toilets unless and until there is a rupture. What would you do? Other than turning off the main water valve outside when going on vacation !
Our old home built during the mid 60's had galvanized pipe which lasted a long time into the early 2000's, we never did have CPVC.
I have seen galvanized pipe ruin also, it rusts from the inside until it clogs solid.
didnt come in houses till early 90s in ca my 1972 travel trailer had it though still is used today. 35 years for galvie nothin to brag about. some goes twice that. but 40 years aint bad
Milwaukee's PEX Tubing cutter works on old CPVC. Im doing this right now on 3/4" cpvc, but in a harder place. Elbow broke at the bend, was installed too close to the surface of the wall plate, in the attic, most likely because it didnt have enough stickout past the wood plate and isolator causing, from my observation, the bend in the elbow to flex from building and pipe movement over the course of 16years. Looking for a solution to remove the glued on part that is still touching the plate. I was able to use milwaukee PEX tubing cutter to not shatter the run going horizontal; this cutter doesnt have a ratcheting, electro or other mechanism for the knife cutting action, just hand pressure to slowly cut. I hope I can find a howto on removing that bit of elbow still sticking out of the plate.
I love our Milwaukee PVC cutting too, it is awesome
not sure why so brittle, but I am suspecting where I see issues is heavy chlorinated public water supplies. Well systems not so much. In fact my parents house about to move back into, build 1970 Dad built himself and used CPVC back then was new to the area but approved, no leaks breaks or issues so far. Only reason most will get replaced is remodeling and fixtures moving and since a high crawl space can get to everything we are just going to re plumb but is still in great shape.
Yes, the chlorine is probably a likely suspect, but age also makes this plastic brittle
On the way out from work today I noticed the EGO mowers were reduced by roughly $150. Might be a good time to pick one up. You could probably make a deal on the display model if there are none available since they're not coming back. Also, the peanut oil was on a pallet - Thanksgiving around the corner.
My store got rid of the EGos 2 weeks ago. None have the highest model that I wanted, with the select cut and the double blade.
So I have cpvc and it is over 25 years old. Should I be replacing it with something either than cpvc when I have to make repairs? If I do replace it what should I use?
Greetings Jeff great video I just subscribed your Channel. Woke up to a busted toilet valve water everywhere this morning. Damn CPVC! I've been here before I suggest using one of the 30,000 rpm oscillating tools Fein, Dremel, Dewalt etc. with a fine-tooth blade. That seemed to cut even better than handheld hacksaw.
This guy’s voice makes me wanna watch Harry Potter and drink coffee while it’s raining. Good stuff.
LOL, some people say I sound like Charlie Sheen
I would test water supply to the toilet *before* all that drywall repairing. But thanks for the warning about cracking.
We did test it, then removed the hoses and repaired the drywall.
Great video, dealing with this same thing
I hope it works out for you this is a really brittle situation
Can you heat the ccvp pipe, melt the glue, then pull it off?
I would not recommend that due to toxic fumes. I never liked the idea of heating up plastic type pipes, or imagine what other tolerance issues it might cause by deforming the plastic
So your solution is to use a fine tooth saw blade? I tried that when my shutoff valve snapped during a faucet replacement and the teeth just got caught no matter how fine they were. Also you only demonstrated cutting a pipe thats running parallel to you, you didn't try it on a pipe that's sticking out of the wall like under a sink cabinet where there's no room to get any leverage. I found that a auto copper pipe cutter did a much better job.
So in the basement of what we call the clubhouse is the inground pool pump filter and such. The pipes that are made from PVC go through a concrete wall that's a foot thick. One of the pipes broke off inside the wall where I can't reach it.
Is there any way to splice this or repair it without cutting a hole through the concrete?
You need a bit like this one: homedepot.sjv.io/9WL4P5 you just need to buy the right size that will ream out only the plastic of the pipe, even if it was inside another pipe.
Can you use a Tubing Cutter on CPVC? You know, the kind that you spin around the pipe and rotate the circular blade knob after each revolution until cut.
I wish you had shown how you installed the repair pipe fittings
It was difficult to get behind the plumber to get it all filmed perfectly, very cramped small bathroom. But you can see how we re-routed the pipes to put the fittings on.
Place the two 90's on the water pipe first, join the top two 90's, then drop them into the bottom 90's in one piece; no flexing occurs. Of course everything must be measured and dry fitted beforehand.
Have you done an outdoor hose bib? Curious on how it is down here just moved from md and the codes and plumbing are wayyyy different use to having a basement with some copper soldered together. Thanks for the videos bro
yes we uploaded a video last year on hose bibb ruclips.net/video/73Sn71X4fGc/видео.html
wow jeff, talk about a rough day on the job. I hopped on youtube to gain some confidence before I started my next diy job in a couple of days. i think i started with the wrong video.
Yes as long as you don't have the yellow CPVC you'll be OK
so what type of plastic pipe can you use for water line
Pex. PVC can only be used for waste/drain applications
Thank you i love your videos
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it!
Thanks, probably save me a lot of frustration.
Glad I could help
charlotte and nibco cpvc cracks so easy genova usa cpvc lasts a long time without cracking.
My new Acronym for CPVC: Cracked PVC!
I think you may be on to something as I live in a 40 year old house and just did some renovations and repairs from a kitchen fire with none of these problems. All the original CPVC is Genova
If I have a CPVC pipe outside, can I protect it from UV rays?
Only if you bury it but even then I've dug up buried sprinkler lines that wood made with PVC pipe and they're still brittle they just suck. For whatever reason these pipes get very brittle overtime. I would never use CPVC for any purpose because I've seen enough failures from it over the years.
Had bathtub fill spout get hit with a shampoo bottle and shatter at the L inside the wall is there anyway to take out the little bit of 1/2 inch pipe left in the L? If not I’m guessing I’ll have to open the wall behind the shower. I’m In plumbing hell.
I would rather open the wall behind the shower, much easier to patch up, and some plumbers carry special drill bits that you stick into the 90 degree fitting and it reams out the plastic slowing eroding the broken piece until you are left with the original diameter hole, then you cement in a new part. But, I think this would be too much vibration on this system and it would shatter in other parts nearby, so to me cutting the wall, and gently slicing out the bad 90 degree part, and cementing in a new one is the better choice.
I found your channel from your holiday deal videos. You have great stuff in this collection. Thank-you for the knowledge 👍. From one Floridian to another 🥂.
I have family down in boca, I'm in north FL. Thanks again!! P.S. IF you find a deal ON a battery powered nailgun/brad nailer let me know please 🙏. I watch when I can 👍
What really makes me mad I don't recall the makers of this pvc and cpvc ever having a disclaimer that the stuff dry rots after 10- 15 yrs.! Now, you've got all this piping in your walls of your house and it's not going to be an easy task and expensive to go in replace it! They knew that houses are made for a lifetime and should never allowed or promoted it for plumbing house's! They should be held accountable and compensate homeowners that used it in there homes!
They likely did not know it would dry rot
@@jeffostroff You would think they did some testing prior to putting it out on the market.? But, if they did no long term testing on the pipe I guess they would not know.? There are an awfully good amount of houses out there plumbed with cpvc! That's not an easy fix! Some places damn near impossible!
Good repair, thanks Jeff
Thanks 👍 JMC
Jeff, they use pvc for incoming water in Florida. Meter to outside shut off. 😁
Yikes, that's a scary thought
correct outside the building
Pvc is ok in the street. Just not to distribute in the house by nj code.
Most of this is caused by high water chlorine content like u mention d , one thing I’d like to know is the life expectancy of pex ( whatever type ) in 10 , 15 years etc guess we will find out ! Wonder if pex etc will get “ brittle “ ? My cpvc lasted about 24 years , needs replacement ( unfortunately it’s a 2 story lots of dry wall to cut ) one thing though it’s much cheaper to buy , especially the fittings ( cpvc) hold on a plumber that does dry wall ! Lol
I have no researched into pex life expectancy.
Nice video Jeff, what happened with the texture? Did you not apply it or you just didn't show it?
You mean on drywall? There was no texture
I have a unique opportunity to replace some of my CPVC pipes. Is there a product that you would recommend to replace the CPVC?
Copper or Pex
jeffostroff I am up in the air. I want to use pex , but I am concerned that in fifteen or twenty years I will be in the same spot. We will see.
@@ThisOldMan65 I have same concerns, because we have polybutylene pipes and It was billed as the plumbing of the future back in 1970s, so I hope people have done advance life tests on pex plastic pipes, as chlorine breaks havoc on plastic pipes
I’ve used an oscillating tool to cut it. But if it’s wet it doesn’t cut. Only when dry.
I would be too nervous that it's going to break from all of the vibration nothing beats using the little hand saw trying to figure out exactly what's happening and just sawing very gently back and forth until you get through it ,
A great man to the kids with no fathers to teach them and no money for people to do it for them!
Yes, this is still a risky one to do DIY, it's plug and pray!
@@jeffostroff got it to work properly and I turned our water on and it works perfectly! Had snapped from as you said the gnawing away of the pipe. Works like a charm now.
Hey jeff what grit sand paper should be used to sand down
For layer 1 I use 80 grit. For Layer 2 I use 150 grit, and for Layer 3 I use 220 grit.
Thanks jeff, Your a awesome guy
This just happened to us like right now...about how much will this cost us to get repaired?
Hopefully no more than $300
Great video thank you guys
Glad you enjoyed it
Does it matter if you use mesh or paper drywall tape? I already have a roll of mesh, so I would rather use it, but I noticed that you used paper tape. Thanks, Jeff!
I use mesh tape more often, depends on what is in the box at the time
I agree they Crack, but useing the hand cutter you are suppose to turn the tool while cutting so it doesn't crush it and bend it.
Thanks
Do you think a m12 one handed hackzall would've made a clean cut??
No, it would have shattered it, those hacksaws remember have a sort of orbit to the movement. You need slow light and gentle from a manual hack saw. Only use the electric saws to slash through old pipe just to remove it all.
No pressure test before doing the drywall repair?
Of course we did all sorts of testing I didn't even patch the drywall until the next day because I wanted to make sure there was no leaks. We even tested turning the main water back on because the pressure from just turning it on is what caused the second section to crack in the first place so now we're very careful when we turn water back on we do it slowly
Great video! Always fun to watch
Glad you enjoyed!
Great Video Thanks Jeff
Glad you enjoyed it Nilam
I'm so glad my house doesn't have that type of plastic pipe. I have a house that was build in the 50's. The only thing I have problems here is with the drains.
Nothing beats good old copper.
Excellent!
Thank you! Cheers!
I have to do a toilet valve tomorrow and I have cPVC and don’t have much room for error! I am going to try to saw 🪚 close to the fitting and because of your advice I will leave the clippers in the toolbox 🧰 thank for the help!
why didn't you add a clamp hanger to pipe stub coming out to the valve so it won't flex and move around in wall?
Used PL adhesive to fill the gap and keep it from moving
I just use a small grinders with a grinding disk to cut through old pipe. It goes through cpvc like butter.
4" grinder OK?
@@jeffostroff yeah I used a 4 inch grinder just yesterday on old cpvc and it never cracks and goes so fast. I started by using a cheap grinder from harbor freight and then upgraded to a battery powered one.
dremel tools are a lifesaver..
Very helpful
Glad you think so!
thx you jeff!
Glad to help!
I appreciate this video sir!
Glad it was helpful!
Use a copper pipe cutter on older cpvc, that's what I do at my apartment complex with 14 year old plumbing
I will try that one!
Would a pex cutter work?
Anything other than the saw I showed you is too risky anything that clamps down on the pipe on 2 sides will deform and shatter the pipe.
Good FYI . Thank you.
You're welcome!
Nice video. Surprisingly, I didn't see a hackzall / one hand recip come out in this video.
You can't use them on the CPVC it will shatter.
I wish I would never put cpvc in my home! Had I known how crappy cpvc becomes after 10 yrs. of use! It should never been allowed to be used in home water piping! The manufacturer should be ashamed of theirselves and should be held accountable for all the headaches and cost that they have caused home owners to endure!
I totally agree! My friend is so paranoid now that another leak will happen without warning.
Anyone try a heat gun to separate the CPVC fittings?
Old CPVC = you might as well install glass tubing for plumbing lines, they are just as fragile.
you got that right!
The highly intelligent people that installed the water lines in our foundation didn’t separate the cheap CPVC pipes on the Hot side but they did on the cold side, drove a piece of standard conduit down beside them to hold it in place during concrete pour… someone made a fortune off this cheap stuff!!
Use the rigid adjustable copper cutter tool to cut the PVC, not a saw.
Why wasn't the manufacturer's of PVC and CPVC being held accountable for not letting the consumer know that if using for home plumbing that it has a lifespan that is shorter than the lifespan of your home!??
The might not have known at the time.
If that's a nightmare, imagine on a house where there's tile on the wall and it's all brick and mortar :) wish me luck boss
We did that nightmare in a bathroom, took 4 of us over 5 hours to get through all that metal lathe and concrete
Why not use a quarter-turn valve instead of the plastic-handle multi-turn valve? They might cost a few dollars more, but the part you have to grasp to turn the valve will never crack.
Quarter turn / ball valves are the ONLY way to go !
Tonight, I snapped a cpvc fitting inside the wall. The main supply was NOT turned off. Do not be like me. I have now learned from my folly.
Tell me you got video, I would love to show it on the channel!
Unfortunately I didn't see your comment and flooded my entire kitchen before I could get the water turned off. Lol! Thank God I had a wet/dry vac that helped.
My house I built is piped all with CPVC (built in 60s) . Last night after I got off work a capped off Cpvc line cracked just above the cap and hot water was spraying everywhere. Overall the plumbing is still in good condition . I just be careful if I ever have to turn off the main valve . We have a cellar basement and 80% of the plumbing is over head in the basement; so I’m thinking of repiping the whole house at some point
Great info but @2:50, that's a really good way to lose a eye ! IT HAPPENS. Safety glasses.
Lol yes mother
What's up Jeff. Any UFC fights at the Depot or Lowes? Lol
That would be cool to stream one!
After 25 yrs of plumbing I wished I had 1 dollar for every repair I done on cpvc pipe. I also know if you use a little pvc cleaner on the old cpvc will soften it and help cut it with a hand saw. And right Never a good idea to use a compresson fitting on cpvc. And home owners leave your plumbing repairs to the experienced professional plumbers
Great tip!
hotel i work at is all cpvc...only 5 years old..
when it's about 15 years, put in your resignation
@@jeffostroff lol..i get nervous shutting off toilets...has those exact type wall stub outs..
The next pipe recall also developed pin holes
They just can't seem to get pipe right. Man vs water, nature wise every time, we just can't tame the water.
Heat gun and an occulting saw with a round blade. If we heat the cpvc by just barely warming it and using an occulting saw I’ve yet to shatter any old plumbing. Hacksaw? Are you kidding me? Definitely will get the blade caught and break something..
That's why he uses the tiny one and goes very light.
The way I remember it, PVC was for cold water and CPVC was for hot water...
No they use it for both
@@jeffostroff -- Well, I knew that you COULD use it for both -- just like you COULD use a 3000 psi hydraulic line for your home air compressor -- but it's a bit overkill... PVC is restricted by many building codes to no more than 140F whereas CPVC is good for 200F...
I'm not sure there is any one PERFECT piping system... Each has it's drawbacks and nothing is going to last *forever*... A lot of our problems could be eliminated if we didn't hide our plumbing (and electrical wiring) in walls and ceilings...
Nicely done but...I would have removed the whole damned toilet!
Grinder with a cutting weel will cut it li butter
Yes, not the 3" cut off tools like the Ryobi that we tested in a previous video, because they can only cut 1/2" deep. But larger 4" and above grinders should work good
Cutting with hacksaw will not make straight cut
You have no choice. With 1/2" pipes you can get a straight cut.
You can cut straight with a hand hacksaw it's all in operator proficiency
👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks bro!