Just want to leave a comment on Nick's channel. I read that Nick had passed away and how sad that made me after watching his Brilliant channel. He was so good and thorough and professional no silly commentary and background music plus really well edited without Nick I would never have even tried to repair my icharger duo even without any one to one messaging with him I was able to repair my Icharger 4010 duo which had blown some MOSFETS and used these brilliant clear repair videos to breath life back into it...he reminds me of my Dad a gentleman and the no nonsense generation. If any one is thinking of repairing there icharger I highly recommend you watch Nick's videos and you can definitely mend them from all his information. RIP Nick😇
Nick thanks so much for giving me the confidence to repair my iCharger. I too had an issue with the R64 resistor being bad. After replacing the MOSFET the charger didn't work, but after reviewing your videos and checking all the components on one side vs the other, I found the bad resistor. Cheers.
Hello Nick, It looks like the days of easy fuse replacement have gone. I don't know why a new type of low profile fuse that is easy to replace has not been invented. Many thanks for another fascinating video.
Hi Nick. I have an icharger 206b which has gone faulty. It powers up fine but then switches itself off about 2-3 seconds later and then it just continues to switch on and off in an endless cycle. Any idea what the problem may be?
Hi. I worked out the ribbon cable pin spacing , also it is same side connector on each end. I found them on Farnell: uk.farnell.com/wurth-elektronik/687626152002/ffc-cable-26pos-152mm-60v-white/dp/2520247?ost=252-0247 All the best. Nick
Nick, have you done any work on the Icharger X6 or X8? Got an X8 with a weird problem. When I push the side toggle switch down, it cycles power in the charger. Up and pushing the toggle in work fine.
Hello Nick. Thank you for your videos. Very helpful. I had one 460 DUO charger with five blown FET's. Four are the same type F3205Z, but one very hard to find is RU40190R. Do you have any suggestion for easy to find equivalent? Thanks in advance.
Hi Goran. TheRU40190R is the input control FET, and is limited to 40volt input power supply voltage, but has a low resistance.2.5mohm and 190amp rating The F3205Z is 55volt so you can charge up to 12S lipo, but has a higher resistance. You can use the IRLB3034PbF in place of the RU40190. It is 40Volt and 1.4mohm and 195A rating. If you only charge up to 6S lipo then you can use the IRLB in place of the others as well. All the best. nick
Hi Doug. I found the resistor was blown by the simple technique of measuring the resistance across the FET legs. After replacing the the blown FET, the resistance was still out on one leg. I traced it back to the blown resistor.
Hello Impressed by your knowledge and We have 3 faulty icharger (308 & 4010). Would you take them for repair ? Of course, we would pay for your service. Regards
@@nickadams5411 Hi Nick, we are in France, I assume you are in UK, if so, no problem to ship to you the chargers. You can send an email to support@flashrc.com Thank you !
@@nickadams5411 I found on another site that the MPU/MCU varies based on a production run, but typically are a variety of SM5964, or SyncMOS based for the older units. www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?839657-iCharger-1010B-106B-208B-206B-306B-and-3010B/page626
Hi. Does the charger work perfectly after the clicking stops? I am not sure what it can be, depends if it has any affect on the charging. Could be the fans. Does it do it when discharging? If charger works after clicking stops, then don't worry.
@@skyline3561 the 308duo I have is clicking as well when it first starts to charge. It does not seem to be that related to what current it is pushing. I seem to remember it doing the same thing at 10 watts. Still works perfectly fine though. I checked mine and the only thing I noticed is that the output caps have split their insulation jacket but they are not bulging at the top. Could it be the large inductor making noises when heating up? enamel cracking?
Hi, I agree the paste can improve the transfer. I often add the paste, if I think the fit is poor, especially on the one clamped directly to the heatsink, although I didn't mention it.
Hi Nick Thanks for the great RC content you create - can you please give me that specific power supply limiter part number or brand name - thanks in advance
Just want to leave a comment on Nick's channel.
I read that Nick had passed away and how sad that made me after watching his Brilliant channel.
He was so good and thorough and professional no silly commentary and background music plus really well edited without Nick I would never have even tried to repair my icharger duo even without any one to one messaging with him I was able to repair my Icharger 4010 duo which had blown some MOSFETS and used these brilliant clear repair videos to breath life back into it...he reminds me of my Dad a gentleman and the no nonsense generation.
If any one is thinking of repairing there icharger I highly recommend you watch Nick's videos and you can definitely mend them from all his information.
RIP Nick😇
Nick thanks so much for giving me the confidence to repair my iCharger. I too had an issue with the R64 resistor being bad. After replacing the MOSFET the charger didn't work, but after reviewing your videos and checking all the components on one side vs the other, I found the bad resistor. Cheers.
Hi Gerry. Thanks for the feedback. It gives confidence to others as well. race on. Nick
Hello Nick, It looks like the days of easy fuse replacement have gone. I don't know why a new type of low profile fuse that is easy to replace has not been invented. Many thanks for another fascinating video.
great video Nick!
Nick are you in the USA? I have a 308 duo but mine doesn't have fuses you reference we replaced power input resistor but didn't work.
Hi Nick. I have an icharger 206b which has gone faulty. It powers up fine but then switches itself off about 2-3 seconds later and then it just continues to switch on and off in an endless cycle. Any idea what the problem may be?
Did you build the load box yourself and did you make a video on it? I need to build one.
Hello! Please tell me what is used there as an external temperature sensor? Thank you!
G'day Nick, another solid Fault Finding Video & Repair 👍🏼what is the part no. for the Extended Ribbon Cable you mentioned ?
he sells them on his site demonpowerproducts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=91&products_id=10473
Ok, Thanks Tom 👌🏻👍🏼😊
687626152002 - FFC / FPC Cable, Jumper, 26 Core, 0.5 mm, Same Sided Contacts, 6 ", 152 mm, White
Excellent content... how did you determine the the proper long ribbon cable replacement? And where did you source it? Cheers.
Hi. I worked out the ribbon cable pin spacing , also it is same side connector on each end. I found them on Farnell:
uk.farnell.com/wurth-elektronik/687626152002/ffc-cable-26pos-152mm-60v-white/dp/2520247?ost=252-0247
All the best. Nick
Nick, have you done any work on the Icharger X6 or X8? Got an X8 with a weird problem. When I push the side toggle switch down, it cycles power in the charger. Up and pushing the toggle in work fine.
Hi Eric
Sorry, I have not. You could try emailing Junsi, they do answer technical questions.
Hello Nick. Thank you for your videos. Very helpful. I had one 460 DUO charger with five blown FET's. Four are the same type F3205Z, but one very hard to find is RU40190R. Do you have any suggestion for easy to find equivalent?
Thanks in advance.
Hi Goran. TheRU40190R is the input control FET, and is limited to 40volt input power supply voltage, but has a low resistance.2.5mohm and 190amp rating
The F3205Z is 55volt so you can charge up to 12S lipo, but has a higher resistance.
You can use the IRLB3034PbF in place of the RU40190. It is 40Volt and 1.4mohm and 195A rating.
If you only charge up to 6S lipo then you can use the IRLB in place of the others as well.
All the best. nick
@@nickadams5411 Thank you Nick. I will try with IRLB3034PbF. Wish you all the best. Goran
Nick, it looks like the most common issue is blown fet's and or fuses, how was it found that there was a failed resistor on the one unit repairs.
Hi Doug. I found the resistor was blown by the simple technique of measuring the resistance across the FET legs. After replacing the the blown FET, the resistance was still out on one leg. I traced it back to the blown resistor.
Hello
I'm using 406duo.
If you press start, 1 minute later...
ERROR-1301
Connection check Error
It's coming out. Can you tell the reason?
Great video
Hi where can I get the fuses for my 4010 icharger mine is saying check your connection
Are you repairing these for other people or are you buying and reselling?
Hi. They are all ones sent to me for repair by customers.
Hello
Impressed by your knowledge and
We have 3 faulty icharger (308 & 4010). Would you take them for repair ? Of course, we would pay for your service.
Regards
Hi Sarl. What Country are you in?
@@nickadams5411 Hi Nick, we are in France, I assume you are in UK, if so, no problem to ship to you the chargers.
You can send an email to support@flashrc.com
Thank you !
ever figured out what MCU these units are using?
Hi. I don't, but maybe someone knows?
@@nickadams5411 I found on another site that the MPU/MCU varies based on a production run, but typically are a variety of SM5964, or SyncMOS based for the older units. www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?839657-iCharger-1010B-106B-208B-206B-306B-and-3010B/page626
Hi nick I have 4010duo that makes clicking noise when it starts charging then fades away after a minute. Any help would be great full.
Hi. Does the charger work perfectly after the clicking stops? I am not sure what it can be, depends if it has any affect on the charging. Could be the fans. Does it do it when discharging? If charger works after clicking stops, then don't worry.
The capacitors swell up on these older units. You may have to change any that are pushing the ends out.
@@nickadams5411 caps changed no joy might have to get in touch with junsi see what they say
@@skyline3561 the 308duo I have is clicking as well when it first starts to charge. It does not seem to be that related to what current it is pushing. I seem to remember it doing the same thing at 10 watts. Still works perfectly fine though. I checked mine and the only thing I noticed is that the output caps have split their insulation jacket but they are not bulging at the top. Could it be the large inductor making noises when heating up? enamel cracking?
I think you can use thermal paste between those FETs, thermal pad and heat sink. That way FETs will run cooler
Hi, I agree the paste can improve the transfer. I often add the paste, if I think the fit is poor, especially on the one clamped directly to the heatsink, although I didn't mention it.
@@nickadams5411 Do you take on repairs for ichargers?
Hi Nick
Thanks for the great RC content you create - can you please give me that specific power supply limiter part number or brand name - thanks in advance
www.banggood.com/DPS5005-50V-5A-Buck-Adjustable-DC-Constant-Voltage-Power-Supply-Module-Integrated-Voltmeter-Ammeter-p-1062473.html?rmmds=detail-top-buytogether&cur_warehouse=CN