Just as a hobby, I make my own knives from scratch and it's gotten so expensive to buy handle materials, plus, I have a great deal of Oak from fallen trees just laying around - I've decided to begin harvesting my own for use on knife handles. This raises the issue of flattening the wood and a "sanding board" sounded like the perfect solution except I have no idea what adhesive to use or whether to place adhesive on both the board and the sand-paper or just one-or-the-other. This video helped me out a lot. Thank you, Mike!
Thank you for this. I made my own inspired by your design. Unfortunately I cannot upload a photo, but it's basically 3/4 plywood, 12x10 with rabbeted ends where I can insert binder clips to hold whole sheets of sandpaper. It also has a strip of 3/4 plywood on the underside to act like a bench hook to keep the board from moving around while sanding. More power to you Mike!
Once again, thanks for your contribution Ddadamaax. I would just mention that in my experience the sandpaper does last longer if stuck down. Regards, Mike
Mikes DIY Tips thank you for the extra tip. We have much to benefit from your experiences. I also got a can of spray adhesive to try the sticking method; I know this will be perfect for a glass-base sanding board for much finer grits. Cheers!
The quickest and most reliable way is to just replace the board with a new one. If you try to remove the old sandpaper it leaves an uneven surface for the new sandpaper to stick to and therefore does not provide a perfectly flat sanding surface
Depends on the adhesive that you use but it's been my experience that 91% rubbing alcohol sprayed on with a spray-bottle works well at breaking up the adhesive for removal. Of course, I have yet to try that on something like this so be warned; it might be a horrible idea, but I thought I'd mention it anyways. Best of luck!
Thumbs down for your jointer techniques. First, no blade guard and the fence wide open. Second, you didn’t use the fence when you jointed the edge. Any board that is not at least 1 1/4” taller than the fence needs a push block or push stick. You’re promoting highly unsafe practices. Wood prep should be done in this order always to insure a square and flat board - especially for use as a sanding block. 1-rough cut to size 2- joint an edge, then a surface 3-plane the other surface 4-rip to width 5-square one end 6-cut to length This insures truly square and flat boards.
Just as a hobby, I make my own knives from scratch and it's gotten so expensive to buy handle materials, plus, I have a great deal of Oak from fallen trees just laying around - I've decided to begin harvesting my own for use on knife handles.
This raises the issue of flattening the wood and a "sanding board" sounded like the perfect solution except I have no idea what adhesive to use or whether to place adhesive on both the board and the sand-paper or just one-or-the-other.
This video helped me out a lot.
Thank you, Mike!
Thank you for this. I made my own inspired by your design. Unfortunately I cannot upload a photo, but it's basically 3/4 plywood, 12x10 with rabbeted ends where I can insert binder clips to hold whole sheets of sandpaper. It also has a strip of 3/4 plywood on the underside to act like a bench hook to keep the board from moving around while sanding. More power to you Mike!
Once again, thanks for your contribution Ddadamaax. I would just mention that in my experience the sandpaper does last longer if stuck down. Regards, Mike
Mikes DIY Tips thank you for the extra tip. We have much to benefit from your experiences. I also got a can of spray adhesive to try the sticking method; I know this will be perfect for a glass-base sanding board for much finer grits. Cheers!
Excellent Mike, thanks.
Really good video, thank you
Good video mike
Thank you Itmas gaming. There's a lot more to come, so please check in from time to time.
6:08 The Big Question
What do you do when sanding paper gets used? Do you put a new piece of paper over the old one, try to remove old one or just make a new board?
The quickest and most reliable way is to just replace the board with a new one. If you try to remove the old sandpaper it leaves an uneven surface for the new sandpaper to stick to and therefore does not provide a perfectly flat sanding surface
Depends on the adhesive that you use but it's been my experience that 91% rubbing alcohol sprayed on with a spray-bottle works well at breaking up the adhesive for removal. Of course, I have yet to try that on something like this so be warned; it might be a horrible idea, but I thought I'd mention it anyways. Best of luck!
Thumbs down for your jointer techniques. First, no blade guard and the fence wide open. Second, you didn’t use the fence when you jointed the edge. Any board that is not at least 1 1/4” taller than the fence needs a push block or push stick. You’re promoting highly unsafe practices.
Wood prep should be done in this order always to insure a square and flat board - especially for use as a sanding block.
1-rough cut to size
2- joint an edge, then a surface
3-plane the other surface
4-rip to width
5-square one end
6-cut to length
This insures truly square and flat boards.