Join / remesh / decimate have become absolutely integral parts of my workflow in my own minis... but if you can't fix it this way, Meshmixer is a great tool for "making solid" some minis.
Good advice! I tried doing that but found the remesh would obliterate my topology. It's not bad if you are making a single pose, but for something you want to be able to move around later it can cause problems, right?
@@DiluvianChronicles Just keep T-pose template model for future projects. Pose and wear every each new projects, save them as separate files. Then join -> remesh ->decimate. It makes life easier :)
@@DiluvianChronicles not yet, i don't know how to sculpt in blender yet, so i'm trying that out first! i mainly wanted to know what the process looked like, specifically for miniatures, and the video explained it really well
Awesome! I will learn from your mistake for sure haha. I've been doing more traditional sculpting but intend to move into 3d sculpting in the future. Thanks for such an informative video!
I think boolean sum is not necessary. Two manifold intersected cubes will print good. But there will, may be, some mistake in addition auto support to interior parts.
I have recently realized that doing booleans for everything isn't necessary (thank God!). Your right. But I still think it's a good idea to remesh together. Especially with resin. Any little pockets between parts will trap uncured resin that could come out if it breaks. That said, for simple objects you are totally right!
It's probably a good idea yeah. I have found the secret to remeshing is to set it for a resolution smaller than the layer height of most printers. I use 0.05mm or 0.03mm Good luck!
There are a few methods. I go over some in my most recent videos. Basically, you can use booleans, remesh, or try to just export as an STL directly (if you do this you need to make sure the objects are each solid and overlapping)
how'd you emboss the armour panels with the indented rim so uniformly? i'm trying to do artificial details like that and I was wondering how you achieved such a high quality? surely it isnt just using a boolean modifier right?
Do you mean the panels on the chest? These are mostly made just in edit mode. Once you have symmetry set up you can quickly get some cool shapes just by extruding and moving the vertices. Just make sure to keep everything lined up with the XYZ axis until it's finished.
Hello, I need help. If I model something about the size of the base cube and export it in STL, then load it up in my 3d printer it's tiny. I have to 2500% up the scale to get something that's print size. Anybody know what I'm doing wrong? If I import an old model it's massive in Blender, the camera/light object are extremely small compared.
Oh Man I know the feeling. But no worries! You just have to change the units in your scene settings into millimeters (or centimeters if you prefer). The exact location and numbers would be a bit difficult to explain, but I cover it in one of my more recent videos. ruclips.net/video/W4AY1hL4nyk/видео.html And don't forget to save the settings so it stays the same the next time! Good luck!
@@DiluvianChronicles Thanks for the answer. How I work with it, I set the imported STL to 0.1 scale on all 3 axis and then up it when I export back to STL. That should work. Another question if you have the time: If I rotate an object in blender, I use coordinates a lot (robotic modeling) the Transform Median coordinates shift orientation. So when you rotate 90 degrees left or something. Then you move an edge or vertex on the X axis, the number goes up on the Y axis in that little Transform window. This is very frustrating since I want objects to copy coordinates but the axis in the windows are different from what you do in the viewports
I did that before. Not a bad solution, but much easier in the long run to set up the scene itself. By default, blender doesn't use real world units, which is why it changes scale
Good Day, i got a Question, what Printer did you use for the Print? Kinda Curious, because i Purchase recualary Printed Minis from Only-Games, and the Details are Astonishing, so i wonder what the Resolution was on your Print? Thanks in Advance and the Time to give a Answer, best Regards!
Good question! I think the most important thing to keep in mind is that the model needs to be "manifold" meaning one solid object. Stray edges and vertices need to be cleaned up before printing and you can't have any open faces. Also for miniatures specifically, the proportions can come out looking odd if you don't scale them up before printing. Things that look good on the screen might not look so good on a table.
Hi, I know this vid is old, but can you PLEASE answer this simple question: what polycount did you end up with? If you would just open the model in blender and hit statistics, it would be very helpful for me; can't get the answear anywhere as to what number to aim at when working in this scale.
We'll... I actually lost the blend file during a computer failure... 😅 But my most recent model came out to about 700k faces. I think it doesn't matter so much though. It's a static object, so even if you go higher it won't hurt except during posing. Instead think about level of detail for an object the size you want and printer quality. You can't print higher detail than your printers step level and resolution. Besides, you wont see much detail at that scale anyway. Good luck!
@@DiluvianChronicles thanks for all the advice, I've just read your reply. Actually I don't have a printer yet (and it probably won't change in the nearest future 😕) but I'm learning blender and want to be able to sculpt minis one day. My problem was with some weird "jaggedness" of creases and stuff like that so I've been trying to correct that with dyntopo to infinity. Hence the fear of too high poly count. Turned out I was using the wrong brushes for the wrong things (who knew you can make creases with "crease" brush??); also saw a vid from Grant Abbit l, he used decimate mod to reduce the poly count before printing. But generally I think you're 100% right, level of detail should be dependent on the scale, so it should be taken to consideration; even if the printer will be 24k resolution you won't be able to see everything, even less to paint it. Thanks again and good luck with your game!
No problem! I had similar issues too. I would also recommend playing around with the multi resolution modifier. I almost always start with a lower poly base mesh and then add subdivision levels for detail sculpting. Then, if I want to change the pose, I hop down to the lower levels. Just remember to apply them once you are ready to print! And if you aren't printing yet don't worry! It's a fun hobby either way!
only a couple hours of your life... and a couple years off your life because of stress lol! I've been using microsoft 3d builder as its a bit more consistent in its ability to make things manifold...
Join / remesh / decimate have become absolutely integral parts of my workflow in my own minis... but if you can't fix it this way, Meshmixer is a great tool for "making solid" some minis.
Good advice! I tried doing that but found the remesh would obliterate my topology. It's not bad if you are making a single pose, but for something you want to be able to move around later it can cause problems, right?
@@DiluvianChronicles Just keep T-pose template model for future projects. Pose and wear every each new projects, save them as separate files. Then join -> remesh ->decimate. It makes life easier :)
the ending was hilarious xD
this video is just what I was looking for
I'm glad to hear that! I have a video coming out soon on more specifics. Have you given it a try yet
@@DiluvianChronicles
not yet, i don't know how to sculpt in blender yet, so i'm trying that out first! i mainly wanted to know what the process looked like, specifically for miniatures, and the video explained it really well
Awesome! I will learn from your mistake for sure haha. I've been doing more traditional sculpting but intend to move into 3d sculpting in the future. Thanks for such an informative video!
I started with traditional sculpture. The transition has been a bit tricky but well worth it!
You could have probably exported the STL and run it through the free 3d Builder in windows to make it manifold for you in a click.
I haven't checked it out yet but heard good things! These days, if I'm careful, I can get away with just overlapping parts.
I think boolean sum is not necessary. Two manifold intersected cubes will print good. But there will, may be, some mistake in addition auto support to interior parts.
I have recently realized that doing booleans for everything isn't necessary (thank God!). Your right. But I still think it's a good idea to remesh together. Especially with resin. Any little pockets between parts will trap uncured resin that could come out if it breaks. That said, for simple objects you are totally right!
@@DiluvianChronicles Thanks for it! So i have to upgrade some my models.
It's probably a good idea yeah. I have found the secret to remeshing is to set it for a resolution smaller than the layer height of most printers. I use 0.05mm or 0.03mm
Good luck!
How to make all the object solid sir?
There are a few methods. I go over some in my most recent videos.
Basically, you can use booleans, remesh, or try to just export as an STL directly (if you do this you need to make sure the objects are each solid and overlapping)
how'd you emboss the armour panels with the indented rim so uniformly? i'm trying to do artificial details like that and I was wondering how you achieved such a high quality? surely it isnt just using a boolean modifier right?
Do you mean the panels on the chest? These are mostly made just in edit mode. Once you have symmetry set up you can quickly get some cool shapes just by extruding and moving the vertices. Just make sure to keep everything lined up with the XYZ axis until it's finished.
You can also apply a bevel around an edge. It helps to change into edge select mode for this though.
Hello, I need help. If I model something about the size of the base cube and export it in STL, then load it up in my 3d printer it's tiny. I have to 2500% up the scale to get something that's print size. Anybody know what I'm doing wrong? If I import an old model it's massive in Blender, the camera/light object are extremely small compared.
Oh Man I know the feeling. But no worries! You just have to change the units in your scene settings into millimeters (or centimeters if you prefer). The exact location and numbers would be a bit difficult to explain, but I cover it in one of my more recent videos.
ruclips.net/video/W4AY1hL4nyk/видео.html
And don't forget to save the settings so it stays the same the next time! Good luck!
@@DiluvianChronicles Thanks for the answer. How I work with it, I set the imported STL to 0.1 scale on all 3 axis and then up it when I export back to STL. That should work.
Another question if you have the time:
If I rotate an object in blender, I use coordinates a lot (robotic modeling) the Transform Median coordinates shift orientation. So when you rotate 90 degrees left or something. Then you move an edge or vertex on the X axis, the number goes up on the Y axis in that little Transform window. This is very frustrating since I want objects to copy coordinates but the axis in the windows are different from what you do in the viewports
Sorry already found it on a really old tutorial. The Median Transform coordinate window top right was set to Local, not Global
I did that before. Not a bad solution, but much easier in the long run to set up the scene itself. By default, blender doesn't use real world units, which is why it changes scale
Good Day, i got a Question, what Printer did you use for the Print? Kinda Curious, because i Purchase recualary Printed Minis from Only-Games, and the Details are Astonishing, so i wonder what the Resolution was on your Print? Thanks in Advance and the Time to give a Answer, best Regards!
Good question! It was a Mars 2 so about 2k resolution. I think you will see diminishing returns after 4k unless the print bed is larger.
what are the design details specific to 3d printing? aside from usual modeling/sculpting in blender
Good question! I think the most important thing to keep in mind is that the model needs to be "manifold" meaning one solid object. Stray edges and vertices need to be cleaned up before printing and you can't have any open faces.
Also for miniatures specifically, the proportions can come out looking odd if you don't scale them up before printing. Things that look good on the screen might not look so good on a table.
@@DiluvianChronicles thanks a lot!
Hi, I know this vid is old, but can you PLEASE answer this simple question: what polycount did you end up with? If you would just open the model in blender and hit statistics, it would be very helpful for me; can't get the answear anywhere as to what number to aim at when working in this scale.
We'll... I actually lost the blend file during a computer failure... 😅 But my most recent model came out to about 700k faces. I think it doesn't matter so much though. It's a static object, so even if you go higher it won't hurt except during posing. Instead think about level of detail for an object the size you want and printer quality. You can't print higher detail than your printers step level and resolution. Besides, you wont see much detail at that scale anyway. Good luck!
@@DiluvianChronicles thanks for all the advice, I've just read your reply. Actually I don't have a printer yet (and it probably won't change in the nearest future 😕) but I'm learning blender and want to be able to sculpt minis one day. My problem was with some weird "jaggedness" of creases and stuff like that so I've been trying to correct that with dyntopo to infinity. Hence the fear of too high poly count. Turned out I was using the wrong brushes for the wrong things (who knew you can make creases with "crease" brush??); also saw a vid from Grant Abbit l, he used decimate mod to reduce the poly count before printing.
But generally I think you're 100% right, level of detail should be dependent on the scale, so it should be taken to consideration; even if the printer will be 24k resolution you won't be able to see everything, even less to paint it.
Thanks again and good luck with your game!
No problem!
I had similar issues too. I would also recommend playing around with the multi resolution modifier. I almost always start with a lower poly base mesh and then add subdivision levels for detail sculpting. Then, if I want to change the pose, I hop down to the lower levels. Just remember to apply them once you are ready to print!
And if you aren't printing yet don't worry! It's a fun hobby either way!
only a couple hours of your life... and a couple years off your life because of stress lol! I've been using microsoft 3d builder as its a bit more consistent in its ability to make things manifold...
Hahaha it can certainly get to you!
I've never tried 3D builder. Might give it a shot!