How To Make 3D Models and Printed Miniatures feat. M3DM
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 20 фев 2020
- In this video I go over my process of printing and painting a miniature for Dungeons and Dragons, alongside Mia, aka M3DM, who shows you how to make a 3D model from scratch!
I use an Elegoo Mars Resin 3D printer, and it is absolutely fantastic for this application. The detail that you get on the resin miniatures is so pristine it's crazy. I cannot see the build lines in person at all, though I recognize that you can see them in this video. But hey, you have to give me some credit, 4k video shows all flaws!
Mia, also known as M3DM, was gracious enough to answer some questions about the 3D modeling process for the video, and hopefully give you all a better insight into the process than I could offer you. She put THIS model as well as all of her other models up on Thingiverse for FREE - that's right, FREE - so that you can download and print them for yourself if you would like to.
Here is a link to M3DM's Thingiverse Page: www.thingiverse.com/M3DM/designs
Here is a link to her Patreon: / m3dm
And here is a link to her website: www.m3dmprints.com/
She based the model off of a character design that I gave her for my Orc Monk named Grug Tug'O'lug. The images you see her using in the background of the modeling process are reference images and have no effect on the final product other than getting Orc proportions correct.
If you would like to print your own minis like this, consider getting an Elegoo Mars Resin 3D printer. They are pretty darn cheap as far as Resin Printers are concerned, and super simple to use. I highly endorse/recommend them.
Amazon Affiliate Link to Purchase your own Elegoo Mars Resin 3D Printer: amzn.to/2OAZk4R
Amazon Affiliate Link for the GAME CHANGING Water Washable Resin: amzn.to/3c1e2LX
Amazon Affiliate Link to the Games Workshop Priming Holder: amzn.to/2Pfbtw3
Link to the Software I use to set my models up for printing: www.chitubox.com/
If you like twitter, I got one! / rybonator1
I also have an Instagram! / dm_rybonator
If you have any ideas for what you would like to see built/reviewed in the future, let me know in the comments down below! Then subscribe so you don't miss any new videos coming out in the future! Also, if you liked this, gimme that sweet sweet like.
MUSIC:
• "Renaissance Period" "...
"Renaissance Period" "Music For RUclips Videos" "Royalty Free Music"
LAKEY INSPIRED - Better Days
• LAKEY INSPIRED - Bette... 
Хобби
Honestly, the most inspirational thing in this video is Mia saying she's only been modeling for 2 years. As someone who's struggling with organic modeling, it's nice hearing that I wont be 50 by the time I'm competent.
Hahaha yes there is hope! Just keep at it ^_^ Feel free to reach out if you need pointers. I love teaching :)
@@M3DM14 Do you have tutorials to recommend for Blender? How much modelling did you do on average per week while learning?
@@metasamsara Blender Guru on RUclips is amazing for Blender tutorials.
I was focusing on just learning somewhere between 20 to 40 hours a week. It was pretty much all I did when I wasn't in my engineering classes.
The learning never stops, entirely, but it definitely gets less frustrating! haha
Hey man, I already know you have some serious talent in you :) You got this!
@@M3DM14 I was curious as to what your artistic background was before starting modeling. After hearing your interview in this video I will definitely be checking out your tutorials.
The Orc Monk that you see in this video is named Grug Tug'O'Lug. He is a proud orc who uses strength to fight instead of dexterity. He is a devoted husband to his dwarf wife, and a fierce warrior. Gods forbid you say anything that would hurt his pride, as your face may find itself in the midst of a pulverizing. He talks of big game, but is a big softy at heart. He only eats meats and cheese, and has written a cookbook called "Much ado about Cheese" that spreads the knowledge of which meats go best with which cheeses.
I hope you like him!
of course I like him, reminds me of my big brother
although he kinda just puts mozzarella on everything and that bothers me (provolone is the superior cheese wirh salami)
That sounds like the best cookbook.
He sounds freaking awesome 10/10 would happily play alongside him
Adorable
I love him.
I feel like I should clarify something, as it's come up a lot in the comments - This resin is by no means "brittle", and my video may have given that impression. I'm just saying it's MORE brittle/fragile than a manufactured plastic miniature. It took both hands to break the legs of the figure. In this places, yes it's brittle, but so are many thin plastic figures. Just wanted to let you know that it doesn't like... break with puff of wind or anything haha. It's still good quality stuff. :)
I don't play D&D, Or have any of the materials required do do any of this. BUT...I have subed and turned on notifications. You deserve it tho.
Well hey, I have many hobbies that I will never start, but I enjoy watching the people who are passionate about them on RUclips, so I get it :) Thanks for the sub my friend! I hope you have an awesome day.
@@Rybonator And with this, I will.
0 of
I love how you validated being new and not perfect to this project. So often people make you feel bad for doing something the 'amateur' way simply because it's cheeper or less time consuming. I'm a full time college student and I work a lot so I definitely don't have time to make extremely detailed paint jobs on my minis or to make my dice as professionally as others, but the end result is exactly where my skill level (and budget lol) should be. I absolutely love your content because you're very straight forward and down to earth. Keep up the awesome vids! I can't wait to see what you make next!
Thank you for that Sp1lt 1nk :) I'm glad you enjoy the way I do things. I am in no way a pro, so I don't think people should come away thinking my methods are as such! Do what works for you and your setup, and I promise you will find something that makes you happy :)
Love the vibes in the intro, always gets me in the mood.
Thank god someone likes my puns :D
I could watch Mia model 3D models all day, it’s so satisfying
This is perfectly timed because hubs and I are thinking of getting our own 3d resin printer soon!
Well the next 2 videos I have are ALSO on this resin 3d printer, so you can really see if it's right for you :)
You my good sir, and lady are absolutely the push I needed to get started…and your voices are delightful!
The quality really is amazing! It's great to see how much 3D printers have improved over the years :) I also really like the idea of keeping one of the figures clear for invisibility!
It's a great way to encourage use of the invisibility spell too :D
This video was great. I 3D print on an Photon and an Ender 3 and it's great to see how others are utilizing 3D printing and the tools involved. I had never heard of water soluble resin until this video. Thank you for branching out to the other aspects surrounding the D&D game/hobby.
Of course! I'm glad you liked it :) You should totally give the water washable resin a shot. It's an absolute game changer for me!
Yet another outstanding video! Really great content to keep things fresh! So appreciate you reaching out to others to provide good stuff to watch. I'm fascinated to see what comes down the pipeline in future videos.
I'm glad you liked this one :) Mia was great to work with! She is so talented
I got a 3D printer for Christmas this year and had absolutely no idea how I'd go about printing minis for our games, but your video has really put a lot of my worries to rest and now I'm looking forward to getting it set up and making things! Thanks Rybonator :)
If you dont have a 3D printer, try 3D hubs. It pairs you with people near you who have a printer and can print stuff for you!
Oh that's awesome! I hadn't heard of that. Thanks for the plug :)
@@Rybonator No problem! Also most libraries nowadays have printers. You can also look for makerspaces too! =]
I love your "learn with me" style of videos!
Thank you Riley! I'm glad you enjoy them :)
Glad to see you getting good use out of that printer! I don't know, but I'm sure you've been wanting something like that for a long time, especially for making master dice. Can't wait to see your minis and dice on the open market!
I WANT 3D PRINTED DICE GOBLIN MAN! LET ME SEE ADORABLENESS IN 3D!!
Check back in 2 weeks ;)
When the adorable dice goblin tells you to ring the bell, you ring the dang bell!!! Lol
Glad to see you doing more collab videos! It's nice to see other artists in the community show off their craft too :)
It's so hard to say no to the little guy :) haha
I am hoping to get more collabs going in the future! Mia and Brent are my first two stops recently!
Yo legit you are far too humble, you did a great job
This was all Mia my friend :) I just put paint on the bad boi haha. But thank you still! It's much appreciated.
This was a fascinating watch. And Mia has an enormous amount of minis on her thingiverse page. And they're all fantastic models.
And they are all free! She cranks them out like nobody's business!
this is one of the videos I've been waiting for for a while, you did not disappoint.
I'd like to add, as always, your pun game is on point
I'm glad you liked both the video and the puns. I have more where BOTH are concerned :)
Now that sounds interesting, I'll be looking forward to that
Rybonator: it’s just not worth molding and recreating minis
Me: but I wanna see that...
It's an enormous pain in the neck if the mini isn't laid out for silicone casting.
If I have a mini that I can use for it, I promise I'll try it in the future for you :)
YES!! ❤ new video is up!! And it covers my favorite topic yayy
Glad it could hit on something that you love :)
I've been slowly learning blender so I can sculpt out my dnd characters and my groups. Watching this really just encouraged me more!
That's awesome! I used to know blender like 8 years back. I need to try it out again :)
Coming from someone who has been dabbling in 3D modeling since before 2000, Mia's skills are really impressive for only 1.5 years. Better than mine, honestly.
Seconding the recommendations for Blender and Sculptris. I've tried both, and I hate Blender's UI, but they redid it recently, and while I haven't tried it personally, I hear it's been a huge improvement.
Personally, I use Wings 3D, which is a bit older-fashioned, but still solid.
I've been wanting to try some water-washable resin, in part because I want to know if it may inhibit platinum-based silicones at least a little less.
Based on my experience, my advice for auto-supports on resin printers would be... don't. The algorithm loves putting way too much support on spots that don't need it, and almost none on problem areas.
I prefer to orient the models upside-down for printing. Won't help with Grug here, you'll need supports on his fists or his elbows, but hair and limbs tend to hang downwards, which means if you print them upside-down, they often need basically no support. Other than that, try to orient your model to avoid needing support, and remember that hanging down or a 45-degree angle is almost always better than sitting flat.
Part of the reason the printed resin figurines are more fragile than "regular" resin figurines is just that SLA resin is really brittle, and it will be brittle if you're flexing across the print layers or along them. If you'd like something a bit more durable, look for "ABS-like" SLA resins, which are designed to have a bit more strength and elasticity when cured... at the cost of ...costing... about twice as much.
But hey, if you want the quality, it's not going to come cheap.
It will be interesting to see how your strategy for designing master-casts for dice compares with mine. Perhaps we can compare notes in a later series.
Those are great tips! I try not to print upside down, as I like to do as little clean-up as possible, and putting supports on the top of the model means that I need to do more clean up haha. I really should give blender a shot again. I did it nearly 8 years ago, but am certain that I've lost ALL skill that I once had.
I will HAPPILY sacrifice some durability to get the water washable resins haha :) I'd love to compare some notes after I give my dice casting a shot!
If you're looking for something a little easier to use, I've been using Wings 3D for a couple of decades. It doesn't have most of the fancy tools that more popular software has, but it's super easy to use, and I used to know at least one guy who used it for modeling and Blender for finishing.
oh wow!!! two of my favorite creators
Mia is a freaking rockstar. I loved working with her and would love to do so again. :)
those are awesome!!
Thanks Mike! I'm glad you like them :)
This was really cool!
Thank you! I'm glad you liked it :)
Oh nice! The Video I was looking for!
Impressive modeling
This looks fantastic!
No u :)
Also thank you haha
I'd like to mention that it's a good idea to allow whatever waste resin you have to cure in the sun before disposing of it. If it's still liquid, the potential for it harming the environment is much higher. This is especially true with water washable resins which should absolutely not be washed down the drain for more reasons than just potential clogging. Just let that bucket sit outside to allow the resin to cure out before you dispose of it.
Follow your local disposal laws! Happy printing!
I usually let it all just sit outside in my bucket to evaporate/cure up. This is my resin bucket solely now :) Then pour the water out. Thanks for the tip my friend!
Happy printing :)
I wish 3D printers were cheaper. I'd love to be able to make my own minis. Awesome video as always!
I got my Ender 3 for $200 (which is not nothing but not out of reach if you save for a while). I use an $1800 MakerGear M2 at work and think the Ender 3 is just as good if not better. Now those are both FDM printers (spools of filament) not resin printers like shown in the video but FDM can still make a decent mini.
It's not too out of reach and it's not too difficult to learn to print things. Also a lot of libraries have 3d printers available for use.
Hey, check your area for maker spaces. You might find one just around the corner and they typically have tons of the tools you'd need.
The photon s is about $120 aud, so pretty affordable and from everything I've heard a good beginners rig
To elaborate on Stetofire’s reply, they would be a public resource available to use for free. They’re available at Makerspaces, and some nicer public libraries have them too.
Can confirm about public libraries, my city library system has a few 3d printers, though I don't think we have resin ones
This is super cool.
No u :)
Also thank you!
Absolutely nice!
Stay crunchy.
Glad you like it :) I'll crunch on fellow Dice Goblin!
I'm glad you made this video because my groups dm just got a 3D printer and we're having an arts and crafts day for making our own minis!
Nice! That will be perfect then :D
great work amazing bro
I "figured" these were coming! Big ups!
What did you "base" that on? ;D
Rybonator I guess his idea was “built” on the fact in your dice collection video, you showed some models of this guy and said that you’d post a video on it soon.
Hey man, I'm a new sub. Came over from Mia's Patreon. I had a blast watching her model this during her live streams and it's really cool seeing them printed on another channel. I learned tons from your painting tutorial thanks for sharing and looking forward to seeing more of your content!
Cheers,
Thierry
Hi Thierry :3
@@M3DM14 hi Mia!
Cheers Thierry! I'm glad you enjoy the channel enough to stick around. :) I have learned a TON from Mia, and if I can ever take this full time, I'll probably try and get into modeling in the way she does as well! She is a rock star and I have a lot to learn from her :)
Mia Kay and Rybonator in the same video? Can the Internet handle this much coolness?
Woah, idk about coolness, but I can sure bring some nerdy puns along for the ride ;D
@@Rybonator Okay, so maybe Mia Kay is really the only coolness factor. But don't sell your puns short.
This is really great! I've only just started 3D modeling a few months ago and blender has been soooo intimidating. I'll be trying sculptris for sure. Maybe it'll make the step up easier
Best of luck to you! Can't wait to see some of the models you create :)
Hey! Goobertown! I love that guy!
He sounds like Bob Ross and Mr. Rogers had a miniature painting baby.
Goobertown is an absolute beast at mini painting :) I can't wait to get some of my stuff out and on his channel!
Great video! i’m starting with sculpting myself!
Nice! It's a skill I really wish I had :(
So I just want to say for those who need cheaper says to start, most libraries have free use 3D printers. The quality is not gteat, but they are a start.
Most? I've never seen a 3D printer in a library, much less one that is free to use.
Backon Lazer ^^^ straight facts. Only thing we have free use of is BEING in the library
That's a great point! Many of the libraries near me have some of the FDM printers available :)
also worth checking in to your local college/university library, I just learned mine has not one, but THREE 3D printers for both students and public use:)
Backon Lazer same!
Great video! For the next one I hope you talk about your failures like you usually do (assuming you're not already bad ass at resin printing, which you might be considering how good these came out), I've been trying to print some dice but keep having issues with the bottoms turning out poorly. Thanks again for continuing to make great stuff!
Oh I have some failures coming in the next one for sure haha :) I might have a solution for your bottoms issue. Hopefully I can cover that in the future vid :)
I was just about to ask you about 3d printing dice cuz i want to make a larger d20 lol can't wait for that video
I think I've got the process nailed now. We'll see in the next installment ;D
What an unexpected surprise, my two favorite RUclips creators collaborating in the same video! Nice!
That said, I do feel the need to point out that you shouldn't discount the need to remove supports prior to the curing process. When the model is put under a curing station with the supports still on, it will be much harder to remove the supports off of the model, to the point where you run the risk of tearing chunks of resin off of your model along with the supports. You should always remove the supports prior to the curing process. Typically, you'd agitate the print in 95-99% isopropyl alcohol, and then rinse it off in water afterwards. If the water is somewhat hot at the time of rinsing, it will soften the support structures and make them that much more easier to remove. If you don't do this extra step, its almost as if the supports are now a part of the cured print. Always remove supports first!
That's a good point to make! In my supports I like to use the little ball tips which help to break them off both before and after IMO. But you are right, It should totally be done before :) I didn't for this set of minis, and lost some chunks as a result.
This is so cool :) I love minis but I suck at painting. Though I might take the techniques you and black magic crafts have taught and try again.
Oh I'm pretty trash too, but just sit down and give it some practice. You'll get better each time :) Also I can't recommend contrast paints enough for someone who wants to get a decent mini out there :)
Also, YOU are awesome :) I always see your comments on the videos. Know they are much appreciated Brooke!
Couple of tips as someone who prints resin miniatures and models for a service.
You can go to Walmart and get a Jar or something fill that with the alcohol so your miniatures can ultrasonic clean in that so you reduce the risk of well... setting your area on fire
For a while before i made a better filtering station, I cut a 2 liter and a normal water bottle apart. I took one of those filters and taped it to the water bottle and then sit inside the 2 liter bottom. The 2 liter screw neck fits perfectly inside the resin bottle's neck so it doesn't move and you poor the leftover resin into the water bottle part to filter out into the 2 liter section. Worked great and had no problems with it, I just printed a better system to do so XD
That is a great tip! I will happily take on anything that prevents me from setting things on fire haha :)
I am always willing to help! Also as a weird side note, remember that no two bottles of resin are made the same. Could be the EXACT same thing from same company like I got Anycubic Green and the first bottle i had was blue compared to the actual green lol
So settings for one bottle "can" fail on another. But if its the same resin it only needs small tweaks
For the strength issue you could print it on it’s side so that there are less layers and it’s harder to break them
It's honestly not a huge issue. By more brittle, I mean I still had to BEND it with both hands for it to crack. BUT it is worse than a normal plastic is my main point :)
I just wanna preface this comment by saying that I am by no means a professional commenter, I am an amateur, and I'm doing my best, kinda learning as I go.
Wow Rybonator! Great video!!
Again, I am by no means a professional, this is like my first time, but I'm happy with how that turned out!
I wanna make sure that you know, I am an amateur comment reply-er. I do not get paid for my comment replies, and I never will. I have no skills in this. With that, let me just say -
Thanks Robert! Much appreciated man.
Again, take that with a grain of salt.
Hell yeah, spicy looking vid
Hope the spice was nice ;D
M3DM are some of my favorite models to print from Thingiverse!
Fabulous video! Thank you so much for reaching out to work together ^_^ I hope we can do more in the future too!
1) You are very skilled.
2) Great choice working with the dice man here.
3) I would love to see what the Miniac would do with this model.
@@Not31337 Thank you! And yes, the dice man is quite fantastic!
I would love that too! I've followed him for years and just love his work. I'm way too shy to approach him now but maybe one day haha
It was an absolutely blast working with you Mia! I hope we can do some more work together in the future. :)
Irony. I just tried this two days ago. Well, 3 or four if you count the time I spent modeling. And I only have a mini printer. ...and PLA. And when you said you had problems, and if you're not a 3d printer you'll fall for this too, I shouted "SUPPORTS!" XD How did I know?
I REALLY wanted it to work without supports haha. I wanted to print it out and BOOM, be ready. But hey, you can't with them all :)
@@Rybonator there is some magic number where if the model's overhang is only... I'm guessing 45°... from the base, it can do it without supports. But then you lose all the cool arm poses for the most part. ...my arms keep breaking off anyway, so back to the modeling board for me. I'll let you know if I find the magic number.
@@MelissaW09 Much appreciate! I'm hoping that I can figure out a better way when it comes to dice :/
With FDM printing you can get down to .05 or 0.04 with a 0.15mm nozzle but you really have to fiddle with it and it takes a LONG time because not only does the layer height makes it take longer to print but also the lines that are printed will be thinner which means you have to make more passes to cover the same area in a single layer.
And wouldn't you need a pretty top of the line printer for that? I have an ender 3 and mine hates using anything below the stock .4mm nozzle. I tried with the .2 and just had such issues with it that I gave up on it.
Thanks for the tip though! I didn't know they could get that detailed.
@@Rybonator I also have an Ender 3 and have used a 0.2mm nozzle for a bunch of D&D minis with just a little difficulty at first. After getting the leveling, print speed and flow rate right, everything was gravy.
If you're going to do a lot of mini painting like this, I would suggest grabbing yourself an airbrush. It makes priming and basecoating so much easier, and Liquitex Acrylic ink in white makes a very good zenithal without all the spotting you see from the rattle can. I've heard Vallejo white ink is even better, but I haven't tried it myself.
My second tip is to not use a zenithal at all if you're using Contrast paints. Just basecoat in white, that's where they work best.
I actually have an airbrush, but am not confident enough in using it yet to pop it out for minis. I might use it for the Zenithal though!
I like the darkness that the Zenithal gets it with the contrast, but then again, I haven't tried it on a full white mini to compare. I'll have to give it a shot :) Thanks for the tips!
You make some quality models. If my operating system worked right I'd do a liveprint of your works
Mia's stuff is just fantastic :)
Prusa Slicer is free and has really good SLA support generation. And if youre stuck with Isopropanol resin, you can always put the used alcohol under uv light and the resin in solution will polymerize and fall out of solution.
You might also want to add drainage holes because after a few days some hollow prints will leak unpolymerized resin
Good point! I had a hollow print get completely screwed up one time as a result :/ I pretty much only print tiny things on the resin printer now, so I just make sure they are 100% filled in haha :)
Nice vid, be careful with the Water-washable resin tho. The water you use to clan prints becomes chemical waste that can't be dumped into the drain, so you have to deal with it properly. My solution is just leaving the water under the same uv-lamp that I cure my resin prints with. It cures all of the dissolved resin and can then be filtered off.
I leave mine out in the sun for the same effect :)
you should send a painted one to Mia, that would be nice :)
I'd happily send one her way! I just didn't know if she was a painter/printer herself. If not, then sure :)
One day I want to make my own table top model using a 3d printer.
You can reuse the same alcohol for 10 - 20 prints/cleans (or more) if you do your initial clean using SIMPLE GREEN and hot water. You can get a gallon of concentrated simple green for like ten bucks, and it lasts FOREVER. Also, cleaning the supports off (using hot water) before curing means you don't need to file or sand down models 99% of the time. It drastically reduces scarring and nubs.
Oh dang! I haven't heard of any hot water support cleaning. I need to check out some tutorials on that :)
@@Rybonator It's super easy. Get yourself an electric kettle bring the water to a boil, fill a countainer with a capful of simple green, then slowly pour the boiling water across the buildplate, letting it drip into the container with the simple green. This makes it SUPER easy to use a putty knife or paint scraper to remove the prints from the buildplate. Then let the prints sit in the hot water for a minute or two, filling the container until they're submerged. Once you can safely put your hands in, you can begin to pull them out, and in many cases, just gently tug the supports off. If you're using prusa supports, you can literally just peel all of the supports away, even from things that are normally super fragile. Best of all, since the resin is hot, it's flexible instead of brittle, so things will typically bend instead of snapping. Likewise, the hot water mixed with the simple green will pull 90% of the uncured resin away from the print without even needing to really agitate it much. After the support clean up, you simply drop it in a ziplock bag, pour just enough alcohol to cover/suspend the prints, then seal the bag so that no air is trapped inside, and put it in your ultrasonic cleaner, with regular water surrounding the bag. The cleaner will agitate the water, thus agitating the 99% IPA at the same time, getting the same clean as you would if you were to have it in the ultrasonic cleaner with just the IPA, but using MUCH less IPA. You can re-use this IPA multiple times, until it turns really cloudy, which will take a while because the simple green + water will clean off the vast majority of the uncured resin, leaving only the uncured resin in the small cracks and details to be worked out by the IPA and ultrasonic cleaner.
You may notice some warping/curving of long, thin details. Such as bow strings, the shafts of really thin spears, etc. If you let the model sit for a few hours, this actually goes away, and it straightens out completely. This really only happens to SUPER thin details, though, and can seem REALLY pronounced on VERY thin ones (like the shafts on spears on Mia's city guards, for instance). It's basically a result of the heat + the liquid seeping into the model. Once it's cooled down, it will push that tiny bit of liquid out, and all of the sagging/bending will go away completely. If I notice this on a miniature, I'll let it sit somewhere to dry for 5/6 hours, then cure it in my UV chamber after it's straightened out. Again, only really an issue with SUPER thin, long sections.
Rybonator, just wanted to let you know that the water washable resin is great. However it is also very brittle by nature. If you use the "good stuff" that requires more alcohol then you get stronger prints. I have also heard Mean Green works but i have not tested this for myself. I just bought the Elegoo Mars and am waiting on a series of resins to come so i can do some testing. The only thing i am going to be printing is Minis so i will report back when i have some hard data
That's good to know! It didn't break like crazy easy or anything, but I just wanted to point out the overall brittleness compared to a typical plastic figure :)
@@Rybonator Yea the washable stuff is not as good for strength. ABS Like resin is much stronger. Though on a mini, it likely still wont be SUPER strong. But no problem man. I look forward to the 3d printed dice Its something i have been wanting to try myself too.
I'd like to know if these minis can be created with Maya?
Do not make fun of Grug's beret. He will introduce you to a baguette the hard way
You don't wanna find out what an Orc Baguette looks like.
Hey man, thanks for making these videos they are a huge help! Questions though, what settings do you tend to use for your supports? Do you do them all manually or do you ever use autosupports?
That's awesome!
Btw, if you have problems with the super glue - so you don't have to hold it, you can spray it with some activator, and it'll cure in a second or two.
I have heard that! I really need to get me some of that :) Thanks for the tip!
you Mia and Brent? Woah! That's one heck of a collab!
I'm super excited by it all! :)
FYI the magic number for my FDM is .04mm. Which means my printer performs best at layer heights with a multiple of .04 including .04. It’s just really difficult which is why I print my minis at .08. There are a few FDM hobbyists that can make their machines go lower.
It’s also not layer height that will affect FDM definition but nozzle width. The width itself will factor in layer line width. .4mm nozzles are the most common and what most start with. Small nozzle are harder to work with might require you to update your machine parts or a better printer in some cases.
What makes printing minis at higher definition hard with FDM printers is that you will need to understand the science and math that makes your printer work. Because each printer model and user is unique, you cannot typically copy another’s person’s settings. Meaning most will have to figure out their mini settings on their own.
I still recommend resin printers for anyone who wants to print minis. They are better designed for high definition and unlike FDM you can get clear prints and solid prints if you wish.
Honestly the months I spent pushing my Crane made me feel like a masochist.
Would love to be able to make mini's of my characters. I REALLY need to get one of these printers!
It's super awesome to get the PERFECT mini for your character and have it come to life :)
I want to make a tabletop game thats set in the future and is a combination of 80s sci fi themes, but with the main play feature being that the table holds sand and terrain pieces to simulate the different planet surfaces. I just have no idea how im going to make all the building, vehicle, and character models
Neat, one my drawings was used as reference in the 3d modeling!
Oh that's awesome! Which one? :)
@@Rybonator i.imgur.com/aqFDu3i.png
@@Rybonator oh shit! it's you lol, you used my art for your character on twitter. small world!
oh shoot! That's so cool :) It is a small world after all haha.
I told her "This pic is essentially the closest thing I have in my mind" for her to use as reference. Thanks for creating such a great piece of art my friend!
You should do a dice tutorial on how to use mica powder to make dice like most of the ones that Chessex and others do
I've done some mica powder dice in the past, but I can always give that a shot :)
Good stuff. Wasn’t very familiar with 3D printing of DND figures or dice.
Question. Did you get the nice lady to model the Dice Goblin?? I really need to see a Dice Gob figure!
Guess You'll see ;) Check back in about 2 weeks
Rybonator
👍
i'd love to do this one day when i have enough money!
If I could learn one skill it would be to sculpt/model at the level Mia does. It's such an awesome skill to have! One day we can both make and print out own :)
Her: makes a cool bandana for the orc monk
Him: Hat.
Hey ryb, how do you get rid of the resin water?
Great informative video. Although i have some feedback for it.
I switched from Isopropyl alcohol to a really cheap product called 'Elbow Grease' which is just a kitchen/bathroom de-grease product. Its 89 pence in the UK for 1 litre. Also stops any sort of white powder build up from the IPA too.
It seems all sorts of de-grease alternatives are working for a lot of people
Second off, Your supports. They do not need to be that thick and get rid of that ball at the end of them. You're causing way more clean up than needs be.
You should check out
3DPrintingPro's "insane support settings that actually work" video. It's a game changer.
Also clean up is a hell of a lot easier pre cure. Let the model soak for a bit in the cleaner of choice. Then just pull them off by hand.
I hope this doesn't come across as me jumping on here and criticising you and your work because it's anything but.
All the best
Jake
Thanks Jake! It didn't come across that way at all, it's much appreciated :)
I might have to give the degreaser a shot! I worry about it on the print screen, but if others are saying it works, then hey! I'll give it a shot.
I tried supports aimed specifically at minis from some YT channel, I thought it was his, but maybe I need to revisit which supports I need. Thanks for the tip :)
Regards,
Rybonator
There are resins that are not brittle like that. My current favorite is 80% Siraya Fast Grey and 20% Siraya Tenacious. Also, they do not have as strong a smell. GL HF and Happy Printing
Honestly it's not that brittle. I had to use both hands to break it. I just wanted to show it's MORE brittle than a typical plastic mini :)
Happy Printing my friend! :)
@@Rybonator And you my friend. But the mix above is really much more durable. I have tile floors over concrete so when a mini is dropped it will shatter unless a more durable resin is used. :)
How do you dispose of the alcohol after it's been used? How many washes can it take before you have to change the alcohol? How do you wash the basins so you can change resins? Do you cut supports before or after sun curing? Is it fine to leave prints on the base for an extended period time? Like if you leave a print over night, but it finishes before you wake up. How much or little can you touch the print just after it comes off the base, since you don't want dents in uncured resin? What's the best way to keep the screens dust, smudge and streak clean to avoid light defusion when printing?
These are all questions I have about resin printing since it they're all questions FDM printing don't have to deal with
That's a lot of questions -
I let it evaporate then throw the bag away.
I do 2, but some people do less.
You have to wipe it out with alcohol.
Before, but you can do after no problem.
Yeah I do overnight all the time.
You can touch it, but be generally careful, as it's still only semi hard until cured.
Keep the lid on so that you don't get dust in there.
Hope that helps :)
@@Rybonator It helps a lot! Thanks so much for your help!
Awesome video! Love it! Would you be able to do a tutorial on how to make your own dice from scratch? Id like to think about selling some in the future, but I don't wanna rip anyone off!
My next video should make you happy :)
@@Rybonator You're an angel from heaven, dude
If we’re not looking to paint them, is priming necessary?
What app do you use to create the model?
what's the site web do you recommende me I got not resine printer for now.... thx
I really like Elegoo mar's Printers :)
I'm sure you've already heard this, but use a plastic funnel when you 're filtering your resin. Grab one from the dollar store and it should be a lot easier than just pouring though the paper filter by itself.
Yeah I need to just go do that haha. I keep wasting resin this way.
I suggest giving Elegoo's "ABS LIKE" resins a try (grey especially). It's much less brittle than most resins (though not water washable, unfortunately.
Water Washable wasn't particularly brittle by any means, I had to band it with both hand to snap it. But just more than a typical mini material I would say :)
Awesome video! I've really been enjoying your series. Question, did you have to calibrate your Elegoo Mars? I have one too and have had good success with it but my height comes out a little short. In other words my printer doesn't print square which makes it an issue for printing dice.
I calibrated just in the beginning, as in setting up the build plate. Maybe you are printing on an unlevel surface? Check out some calibration vids to see if that might help :)
Nice I have just bought some silicone and risen for dice making an da warning for anyone who does try dice making I used 2 POUNDS of silicon to make one mold for each dice maybe it was just me who under esrameted tho I ajev a question do you know for anyway to remove most of the bubles from resin without a pressure pot and after I cut of the pour spout how would I polish it in some of your older videos you recommend nail polish and in some you said sand paper what should I use also heres a suggestion for you cut up a circuit board or get like compactots and eltronic components you can scavenge them from broken laptops and try putting them in dice I am try that out
Sanding is the best way for sure :) You can try and remove bubbles with a vacuum chamber or a pressure pot on the silicone, or a vibration table if you have one :)
@@Rybonator i have heard that using a low heat torach can actually pop bubbles pretty good also i just recently heard that you can polish the resin by making a small amount of more resin and brushing that on might be worth trying it out
Can you print bigger models or action figures at around a foot or two big?
How do you think flex paste would do as dice molds?
Honestly, I've never tried it. I'd have to take a look and try it before recommending :)
Hey the link to the resin the description doesn't seem to mention water washable anywhere. Elegoo has a separate bunch of items that does. Is your link the correct one?
Thanks for the video! I have a FDM printer, but I think i'll pick up a cheap resin one now that the clean up can be done with water.
That's my bad! I thought I grabbed the right link, as I didn't know they made the clear blue color in non-water washable. I have updated the link to match. :) Thanks for letting me know!
P.s, here it is if you still need it. amzn.to/37MZah6
What do you use for the base? They look different from the bases Games Workshop use, but I'd like to get one of those for my minis :D
Yunno what.
I might aswell start playing dnd.
I already have a character in the making.
He is a dragonborn wizard who liked to expreiment with arcane technology and inventing new spells
However, one day he suffers a near fatal accident when he experimented with a highly unstable spell.
This spell caused a massive explosion tearing off certain bodyparts and organs and scattering them across multiple dimensions.
Luckily his apprentice finds him.
The apprentice then reconstructs the lost bodyparts with the help of a believed to be long extinct tribe of dwarves who specialise in the same arcane technology my wizard studied.
His left arm and leg aswell as his heart were all replaced with metallic analouges enscripted with ancient runes that glow cobalt blue in the dark.
Inside his prosthetic heart is a crystal that is capable of two things: Bring him back from the dead (on a nat 20 to keep it fair) and also it amplifies his magic to be much stronger, which he needs because apparentally the explosion didnt just shatter his body but also ripped a sizeable chunk of his mana away.
Dániel Deák woah! that’s so cool! love it!
Oh I like this idea :) You do need to start playing some DnD!
13:00 OMG please please pretty please cast a mini or a dice in tin or pewter. loved seeing the metal minis from dwarven forge
It's on my to-do list for sure :)
That was very informative. Thank you, she is an awesome 3D modeler. I have a question, what is that gum stuff you had on the cork that held the model on it? Also, does that stuff affect the primer/acrylic paints?
Just got back into painting Warhammer 40k, and I noticed that my hands are shaky. Really fine detail is not going to be a thing, but I hope I can at least do some stuff that looks good from a distance. Oh... Black Pearl Metallic... it sounds like it would be a good paint for a Space Marine... but really subtle. Just an FYI to anyone that wants to do that.
He has said in other videos that it's poster tack, it's like a sticky rubber that shouldn't pull off most paints :)
@@guidetoanything Oh, I have some of that stuff I think. I did not know you could use it for other stuff than hanging posters. Thank you!
@guidetoanything has me covered :) It really helps with the shaky hand stuff! I have the shakey shakes too.
@@Rybonator Glad to know I am not alone with the shaky hands. I found my sticky tack, it was in a box with old 40k minis.
Have you tried making molds and casting after 3d printing?
The reason to remove the supports after they cure outside is cause the resin can still bend and warp before its fully cured, even if it doesn't feel like it
I have made this mistake
See I am hearing a lot of the opposite, that it needs to be done first. I think it's really up to personal preference :) Each way has it's benefits!
how long did it take to print those minis?
Also, just as a caution to anyone wanting to cast after resin 3d printing: Crafsman (Steady Craftin') has tried this, and there were a lot of steps necessary to actually get a cured silicon mold. The silicon doesn't like curing next to the resin, even after a few different treatments. I don't remember exactly what he did to get it to work (you can check out his video), but he didn't have a good time.
I have a big topic on that in an upcoming video :)